DaKevster

This is pic of it. The fuse/relay labels graphic is from the manual. I don't have an actual pic of the inside cover at the moment. It's a 2008 Ambassador 40PLQ. Pics added to another reply. I'm adding a lot 🙂 1800W of Solar, 3KVA Victron Inverter, MPPT Charge Controllers, 14kWh of 24v LiFePo4 batteries. This particular need is for the two Chassis 12v FLA batteries, which I want to trickle/maintain charge the chassis batteries from the 24v LiFePo4 batteries, but only when the engine is off, and not have connected during the engine start due to the large current draw on the charger. Simple solution is a NC relay that opens when the ignition is turned on disabling the charger.

Have a 2008 Holiday Rambler 40PLQ and am looking for way to get a 12v signal in the rear passenger (curb) side bay where the Rear Distribution Box is, that is on when the ignition key is in the run or start positions (any position other than Off position). I’m looking to tap the signal to engage a relay just before the starter is engaged or while the engine is running. Looking at the Rear Distribution Box, which is in the rear bay, there are a few fuses that are tantalizing, but difficult to test without repeated engine starting and a second person. I know it'd be easy to get from the front bay distribution, but I really don't want to have to run a wire all the way from front to back. Anyone have thoughts? Some that seem possible are: F1 – DIAG FUSE F2 – TRLR CHRG FUSE F4-ALT SENSE FUSE F6 – ALT RLY FUSE

Looking at the Insite software now. Looks worthwhile. Any suggestions on a RP1210 Compliant Datalink Adapter? A little googling finds a couple sources that are several hundred bucks.

Its a 2008 Holiday Rambler Ambassador 40PLQ, with the ISC360. Yes, did have to shut 'er down while still lit, so will be seeing it again soon I presume. Thanks for that Medallion manual!! I'd been digging and not finding anything on my particular dash in the box of manuals. Wasn't in Hol Rambler manual.

Thanks Frank for the detailed explanation. Glad it's an indicator light that means drive more, rather than pull over and call a tow truck. 😀 Looks like I need to break out the Cummins book and do some deep reading on DPF.

New to me 2008 Hol Rambler 40PLQ with ISC360, Allison 3000. I just had a bunch of engine/chassis maint done; fluids, filters all changed. Have driven 150 miles since then with no issues. Today, was driving with no heavy load abt 15 mins and get this dash symbol. I have looked in the RV manuals, searched online, done reverse google image search, and I am coming up blank on what this means. There are the standard temp dial gauges on engine/trans that have the thermometer temp symbol. This is slightly different, with what looks like a blowing temp symbol. At the time trans temp was 161 and engine temp was 177 and gauges were all in the middle. Air pressures were fine. I'm stumped. Went abt 5 miles with that lit up and all seemed normal. Haven't tried starting/driving it since. Anyone know what this means or where to look up info?

I'll pull the vent cover and take a look. The fridge was replaced with a residential, which I plan to replace with a 12v compressor model, but it has a roof vent so assume it was originally an absorbtion fridge. 8 awg would be good size. Guess I could bridge them together at the control panel for one complete run down to battery/inverter cabinet, where plan to have two MPPT controllers, new Inverter and LiFePo4 batteries. Not sure what's going where yet. Still working on the layout. Would still need a second run for other MPPT controller (2 PV Strings).

From what I read, Sikaflex 292i is water/salt-water/chemical resistant, marine adhesive/sealant that is used above & below the waterline. If it's strong enough to hold a boat together, I would think it'd be good for this. I could also run a bead of dicor along the outside edge to further protect the adhesive bond. I intend to follow the instructions to the letter. They have specific surface prep and different primers & adhesion promotors for the gelcoat and aluminum sides.

Dicor self-leveling lap sealant over the rivet head.

Am a new owner of a 2008 Holiday Rambler 40PLQ and am about to go down the rabbit hole of putting a bunch of solar panels on the roof. I am looking for any insights on where any wiring or important stuff may be run just under the fiberglass/Luan board, so I don’t hit anything. Instead of screwing down each panel individually, my gameplan is to lay down long runs of aluminum strut channel that panels will mount to. Plan is for one strut channel rail to run along the outside edge, just before the roof edge curve starts, and another run roughly a foot from the air conditioner housing. I may also have a set towards the middle, in-between the air conditioners, with strut approx. running length-wise roughly 1-foot either side of the coach centerline. While this may start a flame-war on attachment methods, my current plan is to bond the strut channel to the roof with polyurethane adhesive (Sikaflex 292i??). Then after curing, increasing adhesion safety by using speed shop rivets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZBLVJFF every few feet. My thinking with the speed shop rivets is that the fingers will spread the load below the fiberglass/luan to hopefully prevent any type of tear-out and reduce chance of adhesive de-bonding, while having a very small penetration hole. That I think would be better than screws, well-nuts, or other mollies that take a big hole. Anyone see a flaw with this plan?