JESPHDUSA

Hi Ray - I finally decided to use some high-quality crimp connectors and individual heat-shrink, followed by carefully wrapping the whole bundle. I was not able to re-use the old ECM - it was burned. However, the company that provided the new one (ACM) was able to read the data off it so they could program the new one (which was very helpful). When it was towed, they had to remove the axle prior to towing so no damage would be done to the transmission or rear end. Hi Brad - Here's a picture of the spaghetti mess that I had at one point (mid-repair). I also am posting a picture of the completed product, and a couple of pictures of the old plug that I removed, so you can see the extent of the damages. Cheers!

UPDATE: Thanks to everyone on this forum who was so supportive and positive, I felt confident enough to tackle the job myself and a couple of days ago I successfully got the rig running again!!! HOORAY! Cost about $3000 total (which is $1500 less than United Engines in Little Rock charged me last December to do less work). Now I just have to re-install the axle and take her out on the road for some exercise (which I'm anxious to do!). Thanks again to all who contributed to my education and gave me the belief that we simple "owners" are smart enough to tackle the big problems when necessary. Much appreciated!!

Yep. Visone was one of the first I contacted, but they said they couldn't help me. The website for Colaw RV Salvage in Missouri shows a 2006 Navigator which would have been perfect (no engine bay fire) on their website, but they said they had already scrapped it out. Too bad because I thought I had hit the mother lode when I first saw it.

Thanks, David. That's very generous, and I may take you up on that. But first I have to get the parts. I spent all morning analyzing the situation (first chance I've had to get under there and really see what's what). Looks like I will be replacing the ECU as well, as the connector on the ECU was also plastic and the connector and ECU are fused together. Now I have to source the parts and get them delivered. I will let you know. Thanks again for the offer - much appreciated!

Good suggestion Tom. I will do that if I can't find a used one and end up having to create my own. Thanks for the offer, Brad. I bought 10 rolls of 18ga wire in different colors (25 ft each color) and 25-ft (each) of 14ga black and red, so I'm prepared if I have to make my own pigtail. I also bought a couple hundred open-barrel crimp connectors too. If I have to do it the hard way, I figure to crimp connect, then solder, then heat shrink. I want to do this right, so I don't have to do it twice! Haven't got an exact wire count yet, but I know there are eight 14ga power wires (4 +, 4 -) and I think, 51 18ga.

Thanks, Ivan, but what I really want is the connector/wires that Monaco installed so that the wire colors would match and help me prevent a mistake. I have found online sites where I can buy all new (connector, pins, etc.), but would still prefer to go the route of a used connector with color-coded wires already attached. I've checked with Visone RV, Colaw RV and RVYard.com in Arizona, but no luck with any of them. If I can't find one in the next week or two, I will just order the new parts and make up my own pigtail, but the colors won't match because there are just too many different color combinations with 68 wires.

UPDATE Well, after much haggling with United Engines of Little Rock, they finally agreed to let me have my RV back and not have to buy the parts from them. They charged me $515 for 2.31 hours of "unspecified labor". Then for another $870, I had it towed to my brother-in-law's ranch, which is close to my house. So, I'm now out a little over $2800 total for moving it about 8 miles from home and still have no parts. If anyone has any ideas where I can get a "coach-side" ECU connector (with at least a couple of feet of wire attached) from a similar used coach (mine is a 2006 HR Navigator 45PBQ with a Detroit Diesel series 60), please let me know. I suspect most any of the bigger HR coaches from the early 2000s with a Detroit Diesel in them would work. I have tried most of the major RV savage places that I can find (Arizona, Missouri, Kentucky, etc.) and no luck with any of them. I'm ready to re-wire and get this thing going (and I now have it where I'm allowed to work on it). Just need to source the parts. As always, I really appreciate all the help and support from the members of this forum. Eric

UPDATE: I was told last Friday that the parts were in at United Engines and that I could come do the work on my RV. Got there this morning with a truck full of tools/equipment ready to go to work and they informed me that they had changed their minds. I am now not allowed to work on the RV in their lot. They want to sell me the parts, then have me tow it somewhere else to do the work. I strongly encourage anyone having a problem in central Arkansas to avoid United Engines in Little Rock at all cost! They are the worst service provide I have ever had the misfortune of encountering. I am now looking for a place nearby to have it towed to so I can work on it. Will keep you posted. Thanks for all the words of encouragement and advice. Hopefully I will eventually get to put some of it to use. 🙂 Meanwhile, if anyone has a copy of a schematic from Monaco for this connector, I would be most appreciative. Still looking for that piece of the puzzle. Scratch the last sentence in my last post. I just went back through this thread and realized that Jim J. had already given me a copy of the 2006 Navigator Wiring Diagram. I'm sure what I need is in there - I just blew past that post in my frustration, I guess. Thanks Jim J. You are wonderful!!!

Kevin - you're a genius!! I would never have thought of that, but it would save me hours of backbreaking time spend lying on the ground under the RV and probably help prevent me from making mistakes. Thanks very much for the suggestion. 🙂

Really good idea, Bob. Unfortunately, in order to get the shop to agree to let me work on it, I had to agree to let them order the parts (connector, 68 pins, shroud, etc.). They need to make $ on the deal somehow. Of course, they'll also make money on the ECU because after I get the new connector wired, I'm pretty sure they will have to replace the ECU. Can't imagine that it's not also fried. Heavy sigh...

Thanks for the words of encouragement, Ivan. Unfortunately, there are 68 pins on this connector! Main thing is going to be maintaining my patience and accepting that it's going to take several days. If I try to do it too quickly, that's when I will get into trouble.

Thanks, Bob. I probably WILL have to tackle it on my own and appreciate all the input I can get. I wouldn't be as concerned if it was on my workbench, but laying on my back on hot pavement, underneath the RV and 25 miles away from my shop (with all my tools and spare bits-n-pieces), it's intimidating. Probably have to make a dozen trips to/from home and/or the hardware store during the process. If I would just resign myself to the fact that it will probably take me a couple of weeks to complete, it will take some of the pressure off. One wire at a time... 🙂

Thanks Charles. I tried them, but he said that was outside of his wheelhouse. Sure wish I could find someone to do the job - I'm nervous about tackling it myself.

Great news! The shop foreman finally took my call and has agreed to let me come rewire the connector at his location!! Of course, I had to agree to let him order all the necessary parts, but that's a small price to pay to get the ball rolling. Hopefully he will get the parts and I will be able to go work on it in another week or so. Now I just have to decide on crimp vs. solder (or both) and go get a bunch of 18awg in a bunch of colors! A huge THANK YOU to everyone for chiming in with your thoughts, comments, suggestions, and moral support. Very much appreciated!!

Hi Robert. Thanks for your thoughts. Looks like it might come to that. For the past couple of days I haven't been able to get the shop forman to take or return my calls or emails. I think they are afraid they'll be sued for not fixing it properly the first time. That's 2 positive votes on these. Maybe I will try them - I have an 1800W professional heat gun gathering dust in my shop anyway. 🙂