Rico K 2005 Knight

Does anyone know if these airbags will fit the rear of an RR8?

On 3/5/2024 at 8:39 PM, John C said:

My 2007 Monaco Dynasty hydraulic system is very very slow, that include 3 room slide out and generator slide out, one electric slide out is much fast than the hydraulic one.
I am plugged in to shore power and just change the hydraulic filter and replace all hydraulic oil, the hydraulic oil is full.

I don't have level jack.

Any idea where to look?

Thanks!

If all hydraulics are slow and you changed the filter and oil then I would have someone with a flow meter check the condition of the pump. It sounds like it may be the pump or a the relief valve.

Good luck and please keep us posted. Cheers.

1 minute ago, Rico K 2005 Knight said:

If all hydraulics are slow and you changed the filter and oil then I would have someone with a flow meter check the condition of the pump. It sounds like it may be the pump or a the relief valve.

Good luck and please keep us posted. Cheers.

You may be able to remove the return line to the tank and check to see if oil is flowing back through that hose to the tank when requesting a slide to open. You shouldn't have flow through the return line unless the slide is closing. That can also let you know if you have a relief issue. 

Flip down RV cup holders are sold all over the net and Amazon 

2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

It was posted earlier in this thread. You must have missed it.

Thank you.

On 3/6/2022 at 1:23 PM, CLIFF918 said:

Has anyone changed the exhaust fan direction in the rear of oven?

What i want to do is have the exhaust go outside the coach where it belongs, hate that blast of air in your face.

I have ordered the outside vent and cover and am perfectly capable of cutting the hole and the whole mounting thing.

What I don't know is if I will run into any wiring cables etc in the outside wall behind the Microwave ??

Cliff

Can you please post the outside vent kit part number. I'm interested in doing that as well. Thanks.

Spikes in the voltage like that sounds like there are problems with the transformer and the owner should have the electric company check it.

Good call on using the surge protector. 

All trucks ICC switch only flashes the marker lights indicating a THANK YOU when signaling them to inter back into the right lane safety after passing. My coach now and my previous Navigator worked the same way. Are you thinking yours works with the front lights?

On 1/20/2024 at 7:40 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Here are TWO files.  One is the Water Heater circuit. Fuse 22 Is the one that you are looking for. Read your manual for the location of that fuse panel or 12 VDC Distribution Panel. 

The OTHER file is a complete, scanned, prints for your rig. File them away and learn how to use them.  They are a bit "odd".  Or example...  Look at the Water Heater circuit. You can find this file and a lot of other topics as well as  files by using the SEARCH BOX, in the upper RIGHT. I used "WIRING" and then clicked on Everywhere and then used FILES as I wanted the diagrams.....this one was on page 2 of the hits.

You could also have used the following... just type them in like this   Camelot Heater Water or Camelot Water Heater...  The order doesn't matter. Then select Topics from the EVERYWHERE Drop Down menu.  Then you would have all the posts that had those three words.  There is a fancier option or advanced search where if you want TWO or more words in a "PHRASE" like Water Heater, then you can use it or search again in your results...but you can play and learn.

The FIRST thing you have to do in the prints is locate the device or section or whatever you are hunting for....in this case, the Water Heater Diagram....that is in the title block on the RIGHT lower corner.  I typically look at the print and find it...It is in the RIGHT SIDE... OK....then look at the RELAY.  The Relay coils on all the BOSCH 87/87A will be Pins 85 & 86.  SO, that is the POWER to energize the relay.  Then follow it to the LEFT. You have to pay attention to the pin or wire numbers in the harnesses.  Just keep following it....and BINGO, it goes to Fuse 22...  So, check that.  

IF NO JOY, then the next item would be to have a Spare Relay (Amazon has them....they are the 5 Pin. I only order the BOSCH Brand and NOT an aftermarket).  Swap that out.  NO JOY, then VOM and Troubleshooting.

Good Luck....let us know....

I printed out the Water Heater print so you can easily blow it up and see it.... The other bigger file, or the link, is the entire set of drawings.

2004 Camelot Water Heater 38080954.pdf 270.9 kB · 8 downloads

Check your rear panel for a 10 amp fuse.

Check your rear panel for a 10 amp fuse.

Well hopefully you will not need to replace them but check closely for cracks right at the axle with good light. They say that even if yours have been replaced to still check them every year. In case you do need them don't buy the Monaco set there is an aftermarket market set out there that is claimed to be 6 times stronger. BTW, this issue will cause your coach to handle poorly just incase your steering box doesn't fix your problem. Cheers.

RoadmasterR4R_FMC1109-2.pdf

Read the attachment on rear suspension issues that caused the rr4 and rr4r chassis to handle poorly. Hope it's not you but just to be on the safe side.

Dumping the air during your parked time at home will bring the coach down equally in all four corners so you don't get the twisting. If your parking spot is relatively level that is.

On 5/12/2023 at 9:23 AM, CountryB said:

I'm at RV Glass Solutions now getting my windshield replaced - again. This is the third time that it cracked (when not being driven) during the startup and leveling process. I think the coach wheelbase is just too long (at 24ft) and the frame twists too much once the auto leveling starts. Last two times I was parked at home and went out to start coach and level it (as it will leak some air when sitting letting back corner drop a little). So I start the engine, build up air pressure, and hit the HWH auto-level button. I think that is my mistake. The Coach lifts and drops and creaks and pops, then the windshield cracks.

While the glass was broken I figured that would be good time to "test" the leveling system - but it seems  to be working fine. Nothing unsual going on.

I guess I should play it sage and only level manually from now on.

However, I think it is a design defect on the mid-year Beaver Patriot.  So I'm just writing this to warn any other coach owners with a long wheel base to be careful and maybe not use auto-leveling (manually level, then switch to auto mode once it is level).

Mike

This same thing happened to me. Over a few months one side dropped and the windshield cracked. It was recommended that the gasket be replaced as that is usually the cause. I was told that they do shift around the window frame as the coach travels and is being leveled. No more issues so far after 1.5 years.

Just from what you're saying it also sounds like a short to me as well. In order to be positive I would run a small gauge wire from the module to the sender as a test just out through the window, along the ground and cut the sender wire and attach the long wire to the sender. If your problem goes away then you know it was a short. Or if you're handy with a ohm meter you can disconnect that wire at both ends and test to see if it grounds out. Now just to add to your last comment, I have not seen a system without a warning buzzer as well. All systems I have ever repaired over the years had audio warning tied in with the light. Just mentioning this incase someone has disabled it.

Hey Steve. Good morning. We spoke on this matter before and and we talked about your oil pressure sending unit. Just wondering why you are suspecting the coolant level sender? Reason I ask is, usually the sender is normally open and closes when coolant is below it. Also remember that the warning buzzer is one buzzer for all the warning devices. Be sure that is the reason it's buzzing in the first place.

(Cut and paste this for you.)

A float level sensor is used to detect the coolant level inside the reservoir tank. The sensor is in a normally open position. When the fluid level in the reservoir tank is low, the magnet in the float activates the Reed Switch sending a voltage output to the customer electrical interface.

So this should tell us that if the sender is unplugged your warning buzzer should not be sounding. If it is and it definitely is the coolant sender circuit then maybe you have a wire harness crossed or one wire shorted to ground.

Best of luck. Please post what you find. Cheers.

On 11/4/2023 at 7:22 PM, DavidL said:

You might want to send those pictures to Alcoa.  Looks like a defect to me.  Maybe they will make it right.

The outside edge of the rim doesn't show any signs of hitting the road (curb or flat tire related).

Almost like the rim was over heat treated and brittle (that's a guess).

Those are not Alcoa rims.

On 10/27/2023 at 7:04 PM, JimC295 said:

I read somewhere that the 8.3 was much better on diesel than the 5.9 and seems like I remember 12-13 mpg. If I did not screw this up I got 13.4 with my toad in tow, WOW. I have a question though, is it normal for the tranny to not down shift with the accelerator floored? I changed the fluid and this was the 1st time I got it hot enough to run the diagnostics and turns out I was a couple of qts low. This is my 1st MH so not sure what normal is. Thanks in advance

I wish I could get that milage on my 2005 Knight. I'm getting 10 without towing and 8 when I am.

Hey Steve. We are avid boondockers. I did however install solar panels and they definitely keep us going. Can't say for how long because they have never let us down yet. Fingers 🤞 lol. Anyways, your batteries. Once you notice your panel shows anything below 12 volts start that generator and get them back up or you are taking a chance on damage to your inverter. Next, if you have a BIRD then both your batteries,  chassis and Coach will charge. My 2005 did not come with a BIRD and I now have added one. If you enjoy traveling and like to boondock then check out Harvest Hosts. It's a boondockers site. Hope this helps. Cheers man.

Okay. Here is the information on the sending unit. I even read a thread that says others are also having problems with these if they get wet. Anyway,  it's a 2 wire sender. 1 wire for the gauge and 1 for the alarm. They are specific on how they go on. It's located just above the starter on the lower right side of the engine so very easy to get at. Check to make sure your tech didn't knock a wire off first then take action from there on what you want to do. I got mine at Summit Racing. They were the cheapest and very helpful to deal with. Cheers.

Hey Steve. I just went through the same problem last week. It was also the oil pressure sending unit. Just the audible alarm was sounding. No lights on in the display. I ordered the sending unit and replaced it.all is good now. You need to get the exact part number. I tried with a recommended one first and it was wrong.beeper still sounded. Must be the 2 wire VDO. I'll post the entire VDO number as I pull my invoice. 

On 10/17/2023 at 12:13 PM, a4epilot said:

Have a very small transmission leak. Lose about 1 qt every 2000 miles or so. Because it's so small and the airflow spreads the fluid all over, it's impossible to determine where it's coming from. Gets on my towed.

Been to 2 Allison service centers and they cannot tell either. They both cleaned the transmission case and I drove it around for a while and then returned for an inspection. The leak was so small that no fluid was visible. They both confirmed it is not a leaking driveshaft seal.

I have always used the transmission control panel electronic fluid level feature to determine fluid level.

When it began, there had been no recent servicing of the transmission. I did replace the filters and related seals just in case that might have been the issue but it was not.

It has not been overfilled and therefore not a possible issue with too much fluid and venting outside at the top of the case.

Looking at the pics, it might appear obvious the leak is the pan seal or the verticle case seal but I don't think so. It appears to collect there only after being driven for many miles. When it is cleaned and then driven, there is no apparent leak anywhere including there. However, that's not to say it isn't a possibility. The only way to know for sure would be to replace both one at a time. If I do anything, I'd replace the pan seal first. Any thoughts about that??

Replacing a qt every few thousand miles in itself is not a problem. The main issue is the fluid sticking to the underside of the case and chassis and worst of all, all over the right side of my towed collecting dirt and diesel exhaust, a mess, and damaging the paint.

Haven't read anyone posting anything like this but hoping someone might have an idea or two.

Thanks in advance.

Gary K

Just a thought. They have pretty inexpensive Bluetooth cameras out there these days. May be an idea to strap a camera underneath focusing on the transmission and someone can watch it on their phone while you drive. Sounds weird but might be cheaper and quicker than changing parts until you find it.

On 10/17/2023 at 1:06 PM, cbr046 said:

This happened to me when I swapped IGN relay with PARK/BELL and PARK/BELL with HORN relay from the other Monaco box.  For unknown reason the relays in Monaco 2 were a different manufacturer than Monaco 1 boxes.  Now the coach would start but no air horn, but it was the most benign relay I could swap until new relays arrived.  THIS WAS TEMPORARY.

When new relays arrived the new relay went into IGN slot, the HORN relay went back to it's original home and PARK/BELL slot was empty.  Dang, I had the bad relay and an original identical relay in my hand.  50/50 getting the working relay back into PARK/BELL slot.  You know what happened . . . . . I don't even think about playing the lottery.

Now the coach would start every time and while airing up it had the normal "low air warning" sound.  I don't remember if it stopped sounding, but when I released the parking brake and put the coach in gear the warning was constant and wouldn't stop.  Sure enough, I put the bad relay in the PARK/BELL slot.  Once I put the good relay in all was good again. 

So try swapping PARK/BELL 1 or 2 with HORN relay and see if that doesn't fix your problem.  Then try the HORN and see if you get no toot.

Sorry for the long story.

- bob

 

Be careful swapping relays. Some have 6 volt relays and 12 volt relays side by side. They look the same.

On 10/5/2023 at 1:35 PM, Ivan K said:

Does the dash light come on as well with the buzzer?

It did as well. I found it only did it when plugged into shore power and fooling the warning system that it was over charging. All good now. Thanks 😊 

On 10/5/2023 at 8:53 PM, Ray Davis said:

I'm sure some people carry a spare but I don't know anyone that does.  One guy talked of carrying an unmounted tire on the roof,  I don't know if he was serious or joking.

My 95 Navigator had a large compartment that I could carry a spare tire and a Honda CT70 all at once but my Monaco Knight sucks for compartment space. I just rely on CAA/AAA road side assistance now for tire replacement. 

On 10/17/2023 at 10:29 AM, saflyer said:

I believe there was a thread describing a permanent fix for a parking brake warning beeper that won’t turn off when the coach is put in gear with the parking brake released. I’ve searched for the thread but nothing I input for search terms gives the thread. The thread could have been on another forum but thought it was here. Mine does this frequently especially on the first drive of the day but eventually stops beeping. The length of time it beeps keeps getting longer and I’m afraid someday it won’t stop.

Ed       
‘05 HR Ambassador 

On my 2005 Monaco Knight I just had the same problem and replace the air switch just below the air brake push/pull knob. I say below because mine is vertical. Yours might be horizontal so then it will be behind. Very easy replacement even if you're slightly handy.

Just replaced my power steering hose from front to back. Pump to steering box. Pretty simple and straight forward to do. On the right, inside frame there is a 4" white PVC pipe that runs from the front of the front right wheel just above the air tank and travels all the way down to the rear right wheels. This pipe has wiring harnesses and other things running through it with plenty of room for the steering hose. I just disconnected my bad  hose at both ends and left it right where it is making sure to zip tie the ends out of the way. I then ran a fish tape through the 4" pipe and attached the new hose to the fish tape then just pulled it through. From there I just ran the 2 ends through the provided holes in the frame section front and back  as needed and attached it to the pump and steering box making sure to ad rubber wrap and zip ties at all wear points. $200.00 for 40 ft. of hose with the 2 ends crimped on as well at Princess Auto Canada. Mine uses 15 40 diesel oil in the power steering from factory according to my manual. Please check to make sure what fluid yours takes. Hope this helps anyone going through the same issue I had. Cheers guys.