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Kenster

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Posts posted by Kenster

  1. The arm is on yours. It's that flat bar that's about 6 in Long sticking out I believe you are talking about the connection link. You use your connection link. The valve you have is a standard leveling valve. The new valve will definitely come with the horizontal flat plate arm that connects to the vertical adjustment rod.

    14 minutes ago, dennis.mcdonaugh said:

    None of them come with the arm that's used on my coach. The arm on the ones I've ordered are shorter and have a kink in them. The arms on the valves on my coach are straight and longer.  Luckily the arms are easily replaceable so I just use the original arm with the new valve. This is the only one I haven't replaced on my coach. All three of them are Hadley H004050CEs. It only has three ports, input, output and exhaust. 

    IMG_4789.JPG

    I misread your post. The arms may be interchangeable

  2. I've purchased a new stackable washer and dryer for my diplomat. The cabinet area across from the shower is prepped from the factory for a washer and dryer. How in the heck do you secure a stackable considering the limited width of that area. Is there some type of floor mounted securing system that can be pre-installed prior to installing the washer and dryer? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

     

  3. 5 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

    Yes,

    Don did that and the OEM folks and he decided NOT to replace it.  The original design of this switch always had a "60 Hertz" buzz or hum.  NEW or after awhile.  Don's started making a LOUDER noise...so he worked with ESCO and made the call.

    I would not guarantee, based on reading what folks have posted that tightening will fix it....nor will putting in a new one.  It was not exactly a design defect...but sort of an unintended consequence.  BUT, the 65N is very robust....and if you don't sleep over it....then it does not bother you...or if you have a severe hearing impairment and don't, of course, wear your devices at night....it doesn't bother folks.  A few, I think, actually say it works as "White Noise"

    Totally agree with your logic and such...but the characteristics of it and this spans over 20 years does not always "fix it", for some, like NEW or out of the box...it did it.  

    Thanks for the insight...

     

    6 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

    Yes,

    Don did that and the OEM folks and he decided NOT to replace it.  The original design of this switch always had a "60 Hertz" buzz or hum.  NEW or after awhile.  Don's started making a LOUDER noise...so he worked with ESCO and made the call.

    I would not guarantee, based on reading what folks have posted that tightening will fix it....nor will putting in a new one.  It was not exactly a design defect...but sort of an unintended consequence.  BUT, the 65N is very robust....and if you don't sleep over it....then it does not bother you...or if you have a severe hearing impairment and don't, of course, wear your devices at night....it doesn't bother folks.  A few, I think, actually say it works as "White Noise"

    Totally agree with your logic and such...but the characteristics of it and this spans over 20 years does not always "fix it", for some, like NEW or out of the box...it did it.  

    Thanks for the insight...

    That is the same one I have and it's quiet. Open the cover and packet full of when not fully seated; not that I would know look what the devil rockwool.🤪

    I have a significant experience with motor relays and solenoids, and I know they will humm like the devil if not fully seated; not that I would know what a humming devil sounds like.

    Damned autocorrect. Pack it full of rockwool.

  4. On 4/24/2024 at 5:52 PM, NAMVET77 said:

    I have the ESSCO ES50M-65N Transfer Switch and it is humming much louder than normal.  I'm thinking one of the relays is going bad.  I'm getting ready to go on the road in a couple days and I want to buy just the one relay and have it available just in case it does go out.  Does anyone have the part number for the relay?

     

    Don

    If it is actually a humming noise when activated, it is most likely the contact relay solenoid humming. If you can open it up, the contact relay should have a make and part number on it, and should be available anywhere online at a reasonable cost. Whatever you do, make sure you are unplugged from Shore power and the generator is not running when working on this d*** thing.

  5. I found the retrofitable motor which is slightly more powerful and a 10 mm D motor shaft/half inch square awning shaft adapter coupler online. Drilled two additional holes in what I call the P mounting plate and the shortened the adapter coupler by half of an inch. Far better than that POS welded aluminum do half inch adapter the manufacturer originally used. I have created a form that profiles the new motor as it is slightly larger than the original motor preventing me from using the original motor cover. All but one of my fiberglassing supplies arrived today preventing me from starting to create the new cover.

    20240419_083127.jpg

  6. After speaking with one of our technicians, he claims, when they are unable to replace a faulty or damaged reporting/signaling device on a J1939 databus network, they have used some type of a data bus digital to analog converter for the device. He also said it's generally hit or miss. Either way, let's hope you find the correct part and are able to reestablish the connection. Keep us posted. He was supposed

     

     

  7. On 4/11/2024 at 7:12 AM, Bar SR Ranch said:

    Please read entire post before responding to help with any confusion. I will try and keep this short and to the point but still explain the situation.

    Frank McElroy has been helping me, so he is involved. Thank you, Frank.

    I have acquired a 2009 Dynasty Bishop with the Kongsberg CCM system and unfortunately the dash Eaton switch modules have been removed (I don't have them to be repaired). Someone did do a work around on some of the required circuits. Want to restore to OEM. 

    Looking for the Kongbergs/Eaton Master Switch Module P/N 16623947 or 10121223 also P/N 16623951 would work this is the other master module but can be reprogramed. I have found 5-switch modules that are downstream from the dash master some will need to be reprogramed but we all know that Frank can do that now.

    I live in Oregon about 130 miles from Coburg and was able to find 5 new switch modules that I needed by personally going to that area this is really the only way I was successful in locating the 5 I did find.

    These are the locations I have personally gone NW RV Supply, REV Group in Coburg, Oregon Motor Coach, Premier RV Service, Biship (Guaranty), Beaver Coach in Bend and some others.

    I have reached out to The REV Group in Indiana and every salvage yard in the county that I know of probably about 12 of them, I am on many lists if they get any of the modules, and every other parts resource that I have found across the county.

    If you happen to see a Dynasty, Signature or HR, I think some of the Beaver coaches also had the Kongburg CCM in the 2008 to 2010 range that was wrecked someplace, please let me know yes, I am looking for a needle in a haystack.

    Is there anyone that is close to the REV group in Indiana that would be willing to go there personally and check for me I would compensate you for your time, reason I ask is I have purchased 2 of the switch module from the REV group in Coburg but they are not in their inventory and completely deny they have any, but they really do just not in their inventory so who knows what they may have in Indiana but a face to face may help. I also had to politely ask them to bring out every switch module they had so I could look at them when I was at the Coburg location, they didn't really even want to do that when I was standing right there.

    Attached is the master switch module I am needing.

    If you have any of the switch module you want to sell, please reach out to me even if it isn't the one below it may be one that would work for me by reprograming. 

    16623947.jpg

    I believe the switch is nothing more than a switch / relay module all built in one. Frankly, a stupid idea. If you have a wiring diagram and a little low voltage aptitude, you can easily Buy three replacement switches with a three gang faceplate, and dry contact relays according to the rated amps required, basically recreating the module. If a replacement is not available, this is exactly what any competent low voltage guy would do. If you are unable to find a direct replacement, let me know and and I would be happy help you Source the parts and draw up a wiring diagram for it.

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