Jetjockey

Get a test box from Louisville or webasto and youcan check all blower burner functions with out replacing anything.:

It is a plug and play and in the long run or short run will save you time and money. Starting to throw parts at aquahot till it works is not my chosen method.

I consider the at  rest voltage to determine where the ags start voltage should be . If you remove the loads when you hit say 11.6v then observe where the voltage recovers to possibly 12.2 to 12.4 . You can then set the start voltage so the ags starts when it should with out starting too early unecessarily. Those observations no doubt at different in different units.I also use my victron system to monitor start and house batteries directly too as an ags start voltage directly. My ags and inverter are xantrex and likely are a little different.

I am considering attaching a remote reading voltage meter at the generator starter or just volt meter that cable to establish voltage drop both static and under starting load. Just for knowledge sake. If the gen does not start I could do a battery cross start tie or start the motorhome momentarily to do so. 
lots of options .

Do I just texted you for address.

Rob. I could send you my test box if you want to try it.

 try tapping on the circuit board as you run the start cycle.. sometimes a bad transistor will work after doing this. For a while or for quite some time.

Go to Louisville engineering and purchase a simple to use test box. It will test burner function and point you in the correct direction for repair. I. The long run it will save you time and money. Your control board can become intermittent . Louisville can test and rebuild those also.  As they can the burner control box. 

I have replaced motors and worked on the lippert controlled step often. I would not recommend enlarging or redrilling any holes. Doing so precludes ever doing it correctly. The correct parts are available if you search some.  Non fitting parts are typical of eBay.  Many windows motors are the same motor. I have never had any trouble getting a direct replacement. E trailer would have them. Might  not be as cheap as eBay but they will fit. Some eBay are just stickered witho oem stickers to fool us.
Keeping the pivots lubed good advice. I would use breakfree or something similar . I do not consider wd40 a penetrant ,lubricant or preservative. It is one of the poorest choices..better than nothing but that is it. It does not prevent corrosion or have a very long life as preservative. Washes out with any water. I use it as a solvent or parts wash. 

Ben, I have installed several recent rv 55. If they have no check internally . They still do hold pressure when shut off. I will look when I get a chance for a check valve in the system elsewhere.as you I have had numerous atv types apart and find the same internal components. Some chemicals cause those internal rubber diaphragms and check flappers to fail..  

as you say with out a check of some type the pump doesn’t pressurize in either direction. 

The manufacutuers site states the reason for the Check valve is to prevent back flow when on city water.

Thanks for short concise posts  I tend not to read the post that are a page long. Although from time to time I may be quilty of that.

Go to aquajet rem and look for a variable speed model to fit your needs. They may require a heavier gauge wiring  than some smaller diagram pumps have so you may want to check that out. I think diaphragm pumps are used mainly because they are cheaper.  A centrifgal pump could run higher flow and either be internally pressure regulated or have an external switch in line .a simple check valve on supply side would eliminate the need for an expansion/ pressure tank. Although that might be ideal . A centrifugal pump can run continuosly and have on demand water but that would not be desireable in an rv. Many will not tolerate running dry.

You might look at remco aquajet 55 arv  they are avaiable thru Amazon

Are all pumps diaphragm type or are some centrifugal.? My motorhome has great water flow regardless of how many faucets are open. The pump speeds up as more are opened.

Dr. I will try to locate the name and description of the detector.I have been away or iwould have icluded it. It also finds tire leaks well

Found it. Inficon ultrasonic leak detector. 283$ there are cheaper and more expensive ones.this one has worked f9r us.

I have an electronic”sniffer” device that detects leaks as small a 1 psi. It has come in very useful to locate and eliminate leaks. I have seen it detect air leaks I cannot hear by just walking g around the rv slowly.

 also has detected leaks soapy water did I not. I do not like some liquid leak detectors because they  corrode brass fittings. saves a lot of trouble shooting if  I go to a shop. 

I have owned numerous aircraft and all of them cost less to own than my motorhome!

I always do all water demandthru the pump.  Sooner or later many systems will develop a leak. If on pump you will notice the pump cycle without having drawn any water. If on city water you notice it when something becomes soaked or flooded. Ever rv I have ever had of 6 developed a slow leak in there life . 
if you install a variable Speed pump as aquajet 55 ,you will have good  flow and a pump that speeds up with each additional faucet  you open .

The soft rivots are likely aluminum . Using aluminum as a  pivot point is probably not a good Choice

There are also steel and stainless steel rivots available.. I have used  them. The harder the rivot the more of the wear develops in the hole which in time can be more difficult to complete a repair. Have to descide which is acceptable to you  and your application.

Unless you are in a very low load demand situation . NO. My motorhome uses between  60 to 80watts to  power the dc control circuits which  run all the time. So in mountain dry camping  on a sunny day two 100watt panels will keep the system charged. panels help  keep my auto genstart from starting .I can use the inverter for larger ac loads but then the gen may start to pick the load up as batteries voltage decreases. To get enough solar to offset your energy cost you are going to have to invest in a larger panel array and likely lithium batteries with new controllers. Everyone situation is unique. I have put solar on a motorhome and pickup camper. For me it is mainly to keep the batteries up when not in use and no shore power available. Have a friend with an all electric prevost. He has 2 4000 watt inverters and eight 8d batteries . He can run a lot but still cannot recover with any solar panel array. 

What does aes stand for,same as ems?

Most generally the grey tank has more capacity than the black. 

If the black and grey are same height and width ,it should work . 

Backtrack lines to the coolers and their purpose will be obvious. Then see if corresponds to previous posters observation. Because several are not in agreement. You may be able to find the leak by running the ac to build pressure.  Shut ac off and quickly spray  leak detector on suspect area while you still have pressure in the system. Don’t  addany internal leak finder as it can cause subsequent problems. This method usually works but not always. However it is quick and simple.. yours is likely  r134 which runs at higher pressure than r 12 did ,so that aids in finding the bubbles.

I am not a fan of Leak stop and won’t use it.

your condenser appears to be very accessible .if the system is not cooling it might make sense to replace condenser at this time. Good luck let’s us know what you find

the solution to op question was a simple “yes” ……

Iido70,  

replaced inverter exactly as your pictures. Wiring is identical. The two blue wires are hour meter b+and return. I installed the xantrex xanbus ags on my sw3012. The blue wires had to be connected to the ags harness for  gen run signal. On the rv2012 ags the blues were just crimped together. Once again what new inverter you have. Does it have ags?  Looks like we are all headed in the same direction. It will be something very simple. Hopefully.

do you have auto gen start with the old oinverter. What model did you remove and what did you replace it with? 

on mine the bedroom switch,dash and switch tie in at the ags connections at the inverter. The common ground is there a.long with the run ,start , stop and hour meter wires. Will the gen  start on any  switches? Mine,may be different. I now know how mine is to be wired but after installing a new xantrex sw 3012 my gen would not start using switch by driver. Cummins coach care lay down a anew conductor and all worked. I was then  able to install my xantrex ags myself.

don’t rule out trying a new switch in the bedroom. Or shut down all dc power and continuity check the switch. A totally open failed switch may be isolated there. You could also Power dc and check for voltages. this would be an easy place to start. Start simple.

From manual” When traveling the water pump on the engine, circulates heated engine coolant throughthe Aquahot .through convection the heat transfers to the Aqua coolant, providing hot water and interior heating. use the comfort control to operate the heat exchangers”. Page 173. Ahe 100-4s..  maybe some are different.

Evo. I am with you👌

Going down the road how are you going to power your heat pumps.? You would have to run the generator I think.

With all aquahot switches for diesel and electric off. I will always arrive with hot water in the aquahot. A friends Prevost does the same thing.  I don’t see anywhere to do different. I cannot stop the engine from heating the aquahot.The engine coolantpump on mine will circulate coolant whenever the engine is running. An aquahot tech told me the engine will make way more heat going down the road than the diesel burner can. going have to investigate.

Just Jim.. I was curious that you said your block heater switch just opened a valve on the aquahot to let coolant flow. On my aquahot system there is an engine preheat switch that energizes the circulation pump. If yours works as you described than that block heater switch would have to be on when traveling in order for engine to heat aquahot. I see no way to select for engine coolant sent to aquahot by any valve or switching. If my motor is running the aquahot is going to be heated continuosly and I always have hot water when I arrive at my destination. Maybe the systems are different?

As far as ujoints replacement.  There are shops where I would be comfortable doing u joint replacement but not pinion bearing or anything inside the differential. Shims ,backlash,endplay etc  need some one who knows exactly what they are doIng!