Jetjockey

Ben, I have installed several recent rv 55. If they have no check internally . They still do hold pressure when shut off. I will look when I get a chance for a check valve in the system elsewhere.as you I have had numerous atv types apart and find the same internal components. Some chemicals cause those internal rubber diaphragms and check flappers to fail.. as you say with out a check of some type the pump doesn’t pressurize in either direction. The manufacutuers site states the reason for the Check valve is to prevent back flow when on city water. Thanks for short concise posts I tend not to read the post that are a page long. Although from time to time I may be quilty of that.

Go to aquajet rem and look for a variable speed model to fit your needs. They may require a heavier gauge wiring than some smaller diagram pumps have so you may want to check that out. I think diaphragm pumps are used mainly because they are cheaper. A centrifgal pump could run higher flow and either be internally pressure regulated or have an external switch in line .a simple check valve on supply side would eliminate the need for an expansion/ pressure tank. Although that might be ideal . A centrifugal pump can run continuosly and have on demand water but that would not be desireable in an rv. Many will not tolerate running dry. You might look at remco aquajet 55 arv they are avaiable thru Amazon

Are all pumps diaphragm type or are some centrifugal.? My motorhome has great water flow regardless of how many faucets are open. The pump speeds up as more are opened.

Dr. I will try to locate the name and description of the detector.I have been away or iwould have icluded it. It also finds tire leaks well Found it. Inficon ultrasonic leak detector. 283$ there are cheaper and more expensive ones.this one has worked f9r us.

I have an electronic”sniffer” device that detects leaks as small a 1 psi. It has come in very useful to locate and eliminate leaks. I have seen it detect air leaks I cannot hear by just walking g around the rv slowly. also has detected leaks soapy water did I not. I do not like some liquid leak detectors because they corrode brass fittings. saves a lot of trouble shooting if I go to a shop.

I have owned numerous aircraft and all of them cost less to own than my motorhome!

I always do all water demandthru the pump. Sooner or later many systems will develop a leak. If on pump you will notice the pump cycle without having drawn any water. If on city water you notice it when something becomes soaked or flooded. Ever rv I have ever had of 6 developed a slow leak in there life . if you install a variable Speed pump as aquajet 55 ,you will have good flow and a pump that speeds up with each additional faucet you open .

The soft rivots are likely aluminum . Using aluminum as a pivot point is probably not a good Choice There are also steel and stainless steel rivots available.. I have used them. The harder the rivot the more of the wear develops in the hole which in time can be more difficult to complete a repair. Have to descide which is acceptable to you and your application.

Unless you are in a very low load demand situation . NO. My motorhome uses between 60 to 80watts to power the dc control circuits which run all the time. So in mountain dry camping on a sunny day two 100watt panels will keep the system charged. panels help keep my auto genstart from starting .I can use the inverter for larger ac loads but then the gen may start to pick the load up as batteries voltage decreases. To get enough solar to offset your energy cost you are going to have to invest in a larger panel array and likely lithium batteries with new controllers. Everyone situation is unique. I have put solar on a motorhome and pickup camper. For me it is mainly to keep the batteries up when not in use and no shore power available. Have a friend with an all electric prevost. He has 2 4000 watt inverters and eight 8d batteries . He can run a lot but still cannot recover with any solar panel array.

What does aes stand for,same as ems?

Most generally the grey tank has more capacity than the black.

If the black and grey are same height and width ,it should work .

Backtrack lines to the coolers and their purpose will be obvious. Then see if corresponds to previous posters observation. Because several are not in agreement. You may be able to find the leak by running the ac to build pressure. Shut ac off and quickly spray leak detector on suspect area while you still have pressure in the system. Don’t addany internal leak finder as it can cause subsequent problems. This method usually works but not always. However it is quick and simple.. yours is likely r134 which runs at higher pressure than r 12 did ,so that aids in finding the bubbles. I am not a fan of Leak stop and won’t use it. your condenser appears to be very accessible .if the system is not cooling it might make sense to replace condenser at this time. Good luck let’s us know what you find

the solution to op question was a simple “yes” ……

Iido70, replaced inverter exactly as your pictures. Wiring is identical. The two blue wires are hour meter b+and return. I installed the xantrex xanbus ags on my sw3012. The blue wires had to be connected to the ags harness for gen run signal. On the rv2012 ags the blues were just crimped together. Once again what new inverter you have. Does it have ags? Looks like we are all headed in the same direction. It will be something very simple. Hopefully.

do you have auto gen start with the old oinverter. What model did you remove and what did you replace it with? on mine the bedroom switch,dash and switch tie in at the ags connections at the inverter. The common ground is there a.long with the run ,start , stop and hour meter wires. Will the gen start on any switches? Mine,may be different. I now know how mine is to be wired but after installing a new xantrex sw 3012 my gen would not start using switch by driver. Cummins coach care lay down a anew conductor and all worked. I was then able to install my xantrex ags myself. don’t rule out trying a new switch in the bedroom. Or shut down all dc power and continuity check the switch. A totally open failed switch may be isolated there. You could also Power dc and check for voltages. this would be an easy place to start. Start simple.

From manual” When traveling the water pump on the engine, circulates heated engine coolant throughthe Aquahot .through convection the heat transfers to the Aqua coolant, providing hot water and interior heating. use the comfort control to operate the heat exchangers”. Page 173. Ahe 100-4s.. maybe some are different. Evo. I am with you👌

Going down the road how are you going to power your heat pumps.? You would have to run the generator I think. With all aquahot switches for diesel and electric off. I will always arrive with hot water in the aquahot. A friends Prevost does the same thing. I don’t see anywhere to do different. I cannot stop the engine from heating the aquahot.The engine coolantpump on mine will circulate coolant whenever the engine is running. An aquahot tech told me the engine will make way more heat going down the road than the diesel burner can. going have to investigate.

Just Jim.. I was curious that you said your block heater switch just opened a valve on the aquahot to let coolant flow. On my aquahot system there is an engine preheat switch that energizes the circulation pump. If yours works as you described than that block heater switch would have to be on when traveling in order for engine to heat aquahot. I see no way to select for engine coolant sent to aquahot by any valve or switching. If my motor is running the aquahot is going to be heated continuosly and I always have hot water when I arrive at my destination. Maybe the systems are different? As far as ujoints replacement. There are shops where I would be comfortable doing u joint replacement but not pinion bearing or anything inside the differential. Shims ,backlash,endplay etc need some one who knows exactly what they are doIng!

Tom w. Good to see a real mechanic chime in. Clean up prior to installation is a must. I usually use emery cloth to clean and polish yoke surfaces where the cups must slide thru. This putting in a new ujoint is probably beyond the experience level of most of us here. If you have never done one on a car or pickup, this is not the place to start. while you can remove the old one destructively if nescessary, pressing the new one in is a different task. I have done a lot of ujoints and I never have enjoyed it.

I have replaced these while on the semi. Everything has to go right.in some ways they are easier than a pickup. In other ways harder.I have used a small hydraulic bottle jack to press them out and in. Unless you are real comfortable with doing this ,it can deteriorate into a mess. There is some technique and feel that is involved with this repair. Good luck

No stop leak for me either. Sometimes factory ujoints don’t even have a grease serk. After market usually do. I would agree that replacement of u joint is alway a good idea while you are there. It makes one feel a lot less foolish if it later fails.although I will admit I do not always replace . Usually involves replacement on both ends of shaft.I use an infrared temp gun to shoot temps after having driven. You develop a crude baseline for normal. If even one of the yoke cups is sticky you will be able to see it. I used to just slide under and touch them until I got burned on a hot one. does the drive shaft telescope enough to remove the nut and slide the yoke off input shatter ?Those nuts are heavily torqued.you have to have a wrench that can engage well enough to get it loose. It appears some residual grease is inside the yoke by the bearing cup..Good sign ,some one has greased it. Ujoints can be a little or lot tricky to replace. Including having them relieved of friction once installed.the size and weight of this driveshaft will aggravate the job. Pictures show rust,corrosion and deterioration of the threads on the shaft. That can really make this difficult to remove . Maybe a good reason to let your shop have at it. Or you get to a position of being part way disassembled and unable to finish. You never know. Those threads look to me like a challenge. Plus the flats on the nut are not made very deep and they also show erosion. Fun fun.

I am with James. Pull drive shaft off differential.Feel for endplay and side to side.you actually can do this before and after drive shaft removal. I have used dial micrometers with a magnetic base. Set micro meter up. You can then check up, down and endplay. Not sure what is acceptable in this application but it will give numbers to the movement. If there is a large nut holding yokes to differtial.then scratch index marks on both for reassembly . Torque wrench is best but I have done both ways. There are tools made for pulling old seal. Hook as jwj descibed. Pull oil seal,clean and install new seal with seal tool which will engage the whole seal circumference for equal seating pressure . I have used a socket large enough for the seal to fit the seal circumference .If there is an intermediate carrier bearing,check to make sure it is doing its job of stabilizing shaft. On short driveshafts there may not be one. But you definitely want to look at all connection points. The comment about checking the vent first it a good one. I would check it first. it usually is a spring loaded small cap on top of case. Pull up on it slightly turn a little in both direction and let it back down. Sometimes you can hear air passing the vent if plugged.Or the vent could be A hose or tube,make sure it is clear. What ever the vent, it will be on the top half of differential. Or locate the fill level plug on differential . Slowly remove it. If pressure exists from plugged vent you will hear it or feel it as you remove the plug. as long as differential is the kept full . I would not be concerned about driving it. Just make it a point of inspection. Until you decide your solution. If the venting was plugged an caused pressure as everything heated,clearing vent may stop the leak . A plugged vent can do the same on axle bearings.good luck. My post too long again. I don’t think it would take any longer do the job,than this post takes.

Allison changed my oil and filters .although there is a procedure to check fluid level on shift display. The tech recommended a visual dipstick level check after refilling transynd. After that he was comfortable with the electronic check.

Some oreilly or other parts stores may have the items you need. They should have flushing solvent. The flusher may look like a body paint gun.you put solvent in the can then it has a rubber tip like an air gun.. blow solvent til it is clear then blow with filtered air til lines come dry . Do same with evaporator and condesor..I would replace all orings with ac type.. reassemble everything including compressor. Make sure the prescribe amount of oil is in the compressor, I usually add a couple ounces directly into compressor..This should close system. Hook vacuum pump to gauges . Vacuum til you get vacuum close to current atmospheric pressure. this will ensure you have a sealed system and evacuate any moisture it contains.Close gauages to trap vacuum. If in 8 hours or more,watch to make certain the system holds its vacuum. If it does not drift down more than 1 psi you have a sealed system. The 134 can be added thru the low pressure side of gauges or high side without running compressor. It will draw til the can is empty,then add the remaining 134 prescribed. Don’t overfill as that will make the system less effective. When you run the system,check high and low pressure against a chart to see where pressures should be at your current ambient temperature. When you run the system the low pressure line at the compressor should become cold or even frost up if humidity is high enough.I love a frosty low pressure line .. IIt will be the larger of the two lines .the smaller one is high pressure from compressor to evaporator. I am.guessing you know all of this .if I left anything out or incorrect please correct me. Sorry this is way to long!