Jetjockey

Tom w. Good to see a real mechanic chime in. Clean up prior to installation is a must. I usually use emery cloth to clean and polish yoke surfaces where the cups must slide thru. This putting in a new ujoint is probably beyond the experience level of most of us here. If you have never done one on a car or pickup, this is not the place to start. while you can remove the old one destructively if nescessary, pressing the new one in is a different task. I have done a lot of ujoints and I never have enjoyed it.

I have replaced these while on the semi. Everything has to go right.in some ways they are easier than a pickup. In other ways harder.I have used a small hydraulic bottle jack to press them out and in. Unless you are real comfortable with doing this ,it can deteriorate into a mess. There is some technique and feel that is involved with this repair. Good luck

No stop leak for me either. Sometimes factory ujoints don’t even have a grease serk. After market usually do. I would agree that replacement of u joint is alway a good idea while you are there. It makes one feel a lot less foolish if it later fails.although I will admit I do not always replace . Usually involves replacement on both ends of shaft.I use an infrared temp gun to shoot temps after having driven. You develop a crude baseline for normal. If even one of the yoke cups is sticky you will be able to see it. I used to just slide under and touch them until I got burned on a hot one. does the drive shaft telescope enough to remove the nut and slide the yoke off input shatter ?Those nuts are heavily torqued.you have to have a wrench that can engage well enough to get it loose. It appears some residual grease is inside the yoke by the bearing cup..Good sign ,some one has greased it. Ujoints can be a little or lot tricky to replace. Including having them relieved of friction once installed.the size and weight of this driveshaft will aggravate the job. Pictures show rust,corrosion and deterioration of the threads on the shaft. That can really make this difficult to remove . Maybe a good reason to let your shop have at it. Or you get to a position of being part way disassembled and unable to finish. You never know. Those threads look to me like a challenge. Plus the flats on the nut are not made very deep and they also show erosion. Fun fun.

I am with James. Pull drive shaft off differential.Feel for endplay and side to side.you actually can do this before and after drive shaft removal. I have used dial micrometers with a magnetic base. Set micro meter up. You can then check up, down and endplay. Not sure what is acceptable in this application but it will give numbers to the movement. If there is a large nut holding yokes to differtial.then scratch index marks on both for reassembly . Torque wrench is best but I have done both ways. There are tools made for pulling old seal. Hook as jwj descibed. Pull oil seal,clean and install new seal with seal tool which will engage the whole seal circumference for equal seating pressure . I have used a socket large enough for the seal to fit the seal circumference .If there is an intermediate carrier bearing,check to make sure it is doing its job of stabilizing shaft. On short driveshafts there may not be one. But you definitely want to look at all connection points. The comment about checking the vent first it a good one. I would check it first. it usually is a spring loaded small cap on top of case. Pull up on it slightly turn a little in both direction and let it back down. Sometimes you can hear air passing the vent if plugged.Or the vent could be A hose or tube,make sure it is clear. What ever the vent, it will be on the top half of differential. Or locate the fill level plug on differential . Slowly remove it. If pressure exists from plugged vent you will hear it or feel it as you remove the plug. as long as differential is the kept full . I would not be concerned about driving it. Just make it a point of inspection. Until you decide your solution. If the venting was plugged an caused pressure as everything heated,clearing vent may stop the leak . A plugged vent can do the same on axle bearings.good luck. My post too long again. I don’t think it would take any longer do the job,than this post takes.

Allison changed my oil and filters .although there is a procedure to check fluid level on shift display. The tech recommended a visual dipstick level check after refilling transynd. After that he was comfortable with the electronic check.

Some oreilly or other parts stores may have the items you need. They should have flushing solvent. The flusher may look like a body paint gun.you put solvent in the can then it has a rubber tip like an air gun.. blow solvent til it is clear then blow with filtered air til lines come dry . Do same with evaporator and condesor..I would replace all orings with ac type.. reassemble everything including compressor. Make sure the prescribe amount of oil is in the compressor, I usually add a couple ounces directly into compressor..This should close system. Hook vacuum pump to gauges . Vacuum til you get vacuum close to current atmospheric pressure. this will ensure you have a sealed system and evacuate any moisture it contains.Close gauages to trap vacuum. If in 8 hours or more,watch to make certain the system holds its vacuum. If it does not drift down more than 1 psi you have a sealed system. The 134 can be added thru the low pressure side of gauges or high side without running compressor. It will draw til the can is empty,then add the remaining 134 prescribed. Don’t overfill as that will make the system less effective. When you run the system,check high and low pressure against a chart to see where pressures should be at your current ambient temperature. When you run the system the low pressure line at the compressor should become cold or even frost up if humidity is high enough.I love a frosty low pressure line .. IIt will be the larger of the two lines .the smaller one is high pressure from compressor to evaporator. I am.guessing you know all of this .if I left anything out or incorrect please correct me. Sorry this is way to long!

My 3000 fills thru rear doors engine compartment.I can check it electronically thru the shifting cluster. However Allison says to first check initial level using dipstick on front of transmission.it is under the bedroom acces door. Maybe your mh4000 is similar.. also check the torque specs for filter covers. Commonly people have overtorqued stripping the threads out of the aluminum transmission case. Big mess to repair. Also as you are probably aware to inspect drain plug magnet end for metal. Dragging atf thru coach is not pleasant. pumps are nice

Ems system in my imperial will sense 50amps and then 30 amps as default if not on 50 amp service. If on a 20service it will still indicate 30 amps so you must manually goin and set it at 20. But then my imperial is not the unit ordinal poster was questioning. I believe the ordinal post question was on a contessa and a knight.

I bought an holiday rambler rock guard from Visone. 450$ plus 160$ shipping i have also straightened them. After I had the larges bends out ,I would put shims of thin lumber on both sides of the small bend that may still exist. lumber store door shims work well. Some very light tapping on the remaining imperfections with a dead blow hammer did well. The dead blow hammer does not rebound as metal hammers do. More of the energy goes on target with less effort. Dead blow also soft covering.good luck

Tom hoping you could reply to his issue, mine is a xantrex sw 3012 .many similarities to the magna. And differences.With a voltage of 12.3 my inverter is going to want a lot of incoming to power the converter side. Will do some prioritizing automatically. But still may need some manual setting adjustment.

On my unit, charger in standby mode is selectable on inverter/converter control panel. Also selectable are the charging modes whether bulk,absorption,float,or equalize. The charging side may just be turned off.your magna manual may explain where to select charging. 12.3. Volts will not fully charge you batteries. 12.3 volts is getting near 50% level of charge. Hopefully someone here will answer you more specifically. Many here have similar coaches as yours do you have same indications on 50 amp service.?it could be that on 20 amp service the magna shuts off the charging mode as to preserve power for coach . 20amp s isn’t much Have noticed these systems can behave a little unusually on 20 and 30 amp service

Air compressor for brakes, air bags etc last for hundreds of thousands of miles on semi trucks. You can look downstream from compressor in air line for oil that might be coming from pump. If those lines are relatively dry then replacing the compressor is a judgment call. New manufacture compressors may not be of the quality and longevity of what you have. We see it all the time in heavy equipment. I do understand the idea of being proactive so it becomes difficult to know whether or not to replace a component .ac compressor if mine will be a complete flush of all lines and evaporator ,condensorfollowerd by new dryer ,expansion valve vacuumed down overnight then prescribed amount of refrigerant and compressor oil. I think this is the only way to get all the longevity from the that is possible.it has worked well for me.

I believe the manufacturer is “carling”. My aquahot also has terminals to power the green indicator light. The light and the switch are one piece. Don’t know if that is a special or not.

I need to correct this after rereading manual . The. Abs light should go out in a few seconds after start up. The ats light goes out after brake applied. If the abs light remains on after a few seconds my manual says ecm has recorded the problem and can be read with diagnostics. Brakes still will work just fine but possibly no abs function. This is on my unit. Don’t know if others are similar. Glad to see so many posts on safely blocking.

I use short planks under the duals and the tag . I don’t block the trailer hitch because it has a limited tongue weight capacity. I block the frame concrete you described.I have not blocked between frame as some do. I am no abs expert but I doubt you do any harm . The abs is a tone ring/sensor that compares wheel speeds against one another looking for slippage. It is more less internal to the wheel/axle and moves with it. I also get the abs light on start up,on press and release of brake it goes out. Manual says that is normal. Maybe yours is similar.be safe

It was mentioned here that evacuation may remove debris.. not likely. A special flushing solvent is used to flush the system. Then blow clear with dry filtered air pressure. The evacuation process removes all the air and moisture from the system and if the vacc pump is a good one it will vaporize and vent residual oil if any. From there the pump is shut down under high vacuum. We let it sit for 24 hours and if it hold vacuum ,you can be confident the system is sealed. Some shops don’t flush or vacuum test. They just pump the system down and install prescribed amount of refrigerant. Than in a year or so when the compressor fails they gladly do it all over again. I have equipment that has run for over 20 years and still going fine. Fun fun. f

Whenever I change out an ac compressor I flush the whole system . Youwill be replacing several components and have it opened up anyway. It is hard to be certain whether or not metal got from the compressor into the system . I flush the lines and disconnect the evaporator and condenser and flush them out.If it is not flushed out,the longevity of the compressor may be affected. It is also nice to flush out all the old oils to start with a nice clean system. If the compressor has ever been replaced before, you have no way of knowing if the system was flushed then . If not,it could be the reason for you current failure. Good luck

Aquahot.com? $21.35 I will locate it again and attach a link. It did not indicate out of stock as other sites do.

I see them on the aquahot website. 21$

You unit is likely a rear radiator style and not side radiator?

Thankyou great advice. I always like the “let it go” recommendation. I will take a look at it just for info purposes. Realizing disassembly can create problems so I will not get too carried away with that.

That is being inventive. Will consider . It would take so little to bring it up tightly. When I get a chance I am going to look at the mechanism. See it there is a way to modify the spring arrangement to take up a little tension. May have to dissassemble and remachine a little.rv Shop suggested that taking a full turn is not necessarily a good idea.it can cause slide extension and sealing problems in some cases. Thankyou all for you responses.

Easy way to locate air dryer if you do not know what it looks like. Let the coach build air. When it gets to the high end of pressure gauge the air dryer will vent air to the ground. You should be able to hear the “swoosh” when the air dryer /regulator dumps air. Usually it will blow to the ground and blow a spot clear in the is gravel,grass,dust etc. sometimes if moisture is also being vented the wet spot on the floor will be evident. please don’t get under your rig with out dead blocking it. Not even one time. If the air system fails you willbe crushed or pinched in the suspension. I know a guy that saw a 26 year old man killed his first day on the job in this manner. I heavy jack stand mine and then back it up with 8x8 dead blocks. And let the load down on the stands before I go under. Sometime I run the wheels up on short planks to gain some added clearance but still dead block. Hopefully someone else has answers to your other questions. I know where and how mine works . Someone else no doubt is more familiar with you specifics. Some like mine have coolant filters some do not. Be safe.

Is it possible to slightly adjust carefree slidetopper to remove some of the sag?

I was told on my Rva system which is some different, to repeatedly actuate and release the switches or buttons. It apparently removed the oxidation present from infrequent use. That is over a year ago and all is working fine yet. May not he.p you but is pretty easy to try.