Wanderlust

There are a lot of screws and one of mine was buried so deep it looked like it had been removed. If your coach is like mine there are staples coming from the plywood the ventilation fan is mounted on down into the rear vertical surface at the back of your cabinet. I took one of those cordless vibrating saws and carefully cut along the joint through the staples. I was perplexed initially as well when I removed all the screws and it didn't budge. When I reassembled, I ran screws down in place of the staples. Probably not as good as the staples but the assembly weighs 80 pounds less now.

Here is a better photo. It really streamlined the cockpit.

Well I'm almost complete with modifying the TV cabinet on our new to me 2002 Dynasty. The prior owner was pretty proud of mounting a 40 inch flat screen behemoth to the front of the already monolithic CRT cabinet. I wasn't proud of it at all. Removing it wasn't terrible with the exception of the 20 or staples I had to saw through at the front of the cabinet and the one screw that was so buried that I was certain it had been removed. Trimming it would have been easier if it was a square/rectangular cabinet. The slanted angle at the front made it a bit more of a challenge. I ended up trimming about 6 inches off the depth and 4.5 inches off the height. I have a good skill saw with a guide/fence and a radial arm saw as well. A table saw would have been nice, but it was enough to do the job. I used an aluminum C channel from Home Depot that I painted black to trim the front edge. The angle at the miters isn't perfect. It was pretty tough to get dead on with the aforementioned cabinet shape. Our seats are out getting reupholstered in black so it should really update the coach. I had to move the vent fan up a couple of inches to provide room for the TV mount which I attached to a framework made from the waste. I was able to trim one of the waste pieces to cover the hole damaged vinyl in the ceiling. There is about a 3/4 inch border that is slightly depressed from the old cabinet but I can live with it. With luck it may rebound a little. The TV is a TCL ROKU TV, $128 bucks from WalMart. It was the only 32 inch that would fit inside the cabinet. I now just need to film the two inch gap at the bottom. I'm hoping an ultrathin soundbar will do the trick. I painted the interior of the cabinet flat black so you don't see contrasting colors in any gaps around the TV. Overall I'm pretty happy with the final finish and am ecstatic about the way it opens up the front of the rig. Sorry if the photos aren't that great. It was dark out.

Looks great. Removing the carpet in my stairwell is in my near future. My wife suggested diamond plate to replace it. Haven't decided yet, but I'm not against it. Where did you source your stair tread?

Good idea Rodger. I'm taking it for a drive tomorrow and will clamp off one of the hoses and see what happens. I'm glad that at least the system is producing cold. I just have to figure out how to get it out. Thank You. From what I have been able to gather, it sounds like on a lot of coaches the air is blown past the heater core and evaporator simultaneously so the water valve does all the work of metering the temperature. I will find out tomorrow if it's the culprit when I clamp one of the hoses off.

I recently purchase a 2002 Dynasty. It was pretty cold out when I tested it and it seemed like it was working. On the way home from purchasing I realized it is blowing only hot air. So far I have figured out the compressor is doing its job and it is good and cold on one side of the evaporator. I can hear what sounds like a door opening or closing by air action in any of the mode positions for where the heat/air is pushed i.e. defrost, vents, floor, etc. There are no similar noises when switching to ac mode. I am inclined to believe the issue is with the water valve on the firewall behind the generator. Is there a way to check voltage at the valve connector that will tell me the valve is getting the proper open or close signal? They are pretty small pins so will have to figure out how to get a meter lead on them. I want to avoid getting inside the dash if I can. Also if I find it is the hot water valve, am I likely to dump a bunch of coolant or just the contents of the heater core when I change it. Last question, is there a separate fuse for the heater control different than that of the blower which works fine. Thanks in advance. If I'm way off base in my troubleshooting, please straighten me out.