bikedavem

16 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Harold,

Many years ago I took a Dremel and removed the long pin on the ends of the Salon and bedroom awning toppers as that system never worked correctly and it was destroying my fabric.

Then later I installed the Carefree Manual Lock on the two roadside Omega I Slide-out Awning Toppers. https://tinyurl.com/9upwc876

Also, by the looks of your fabric you could use some assistance of Stone Vos Inc. and Talin RV to make and install a new awning topper. It is in really bad shape. You won't be disappointed with the quality, workmanship and warranty. They are the best in the country!

http://stonevos.com/

http://talinrv.com/

 

I also switched to the old style manual lock. Works much better than the one pictured in the OP.  The only caution is to always make sure it is unlocked before extending your slide out. My Stone Vos fabric is now 5 years old and is still in excellent shape, despite being extended full time.

2002 HR Endeavor

On 4/16/2021 at 9:36 AM, JDCrow said:

After advice about the absorb refer, I started down the rabbit hole of a Residential fridge. We love ours in our 5vr, however the task of getting one in the door of the Dip looked crazy. 
 

Found JC Refrigeration. They make kits to update Norcold/Dometic.

I figured it upgrade to a straight 12V package for our current Norcold 1200, but opened up the back of my fridge, and PO had a JC update done to this fridge. While it’s still LP/AC, I will sleep better knowing that it’s a solidly built system. I will still be upgrading to the 12V package, the lower  power consumption is alone is well worth it. But I have some time now, and funds to dedicated elsewhere.

 

 

I have the Norcold 1200 with the Dutch Aire cooling unit in my Endeavor also. I've installed the Fridge Defend controller for added safety. The integrated fan controller is a bonus. https://www.arprv.com/index.php

2002 HR Endeavor 

4 hours ago, vanwill52 said:

Dave?  I think the difference is that the model(s) that does not have the filters and manifold has an internal bypassing pressure relief valve.  It recirculates the excess fuel from the output of the pump back to the input of the pump internally.  At least I think that is what I read when I was deciding which pump model to buy.

There is nothing wrong with doing it that way.  You still have positive pressure at the CAPS pump inlet and will never starve it.  You will also be pushing more fuel through the CAPS pump and back to the tank through the existing return line in the lift pump manifold.  You just won't have "full-time fuel polishing (filtration)".  The amount of fuel that the models with fuel filters is constantly filtering is quite large.  In my case, it's over 90 GPH.  I noticed that with all new filters when I installed the system, it took only a short time before the primary filter clogged enough to drop the pressure at the CAPS pump from 15 PSI to 10 PSI.  If you have a remote fuel pressure gage, it is a handly indicator of when filters need changing.

Thanks for the explanation. It makes sense to me now.

I have recently installed a fuel pressure gage with the sender just downstream of the second stock filter.  I'm seeing 12 psi at Idle and 10 psi at 100% power with 10,000 miles on my fuel filters.  It will be interesting to see the pressures after the filter replacement.

My understanding is that by installing the FASS pump, the injection pump will no longer need to suck fuel all the way from the fuel tank, and a larger volume of fuel will be run through the injection pump with a greater excess being returned to the tank through the original return line. This excess volume of fuel passed through the injection pump will improve cooling and lubrication, lower stress on the pump and increase longevity.

My installation is of the bare pump without the additional filters.  I'm not understanding the running of a return line (to the tank) on the dual filter FASS pump installations. It seems like one would like to pass all the excess fuel through the injection pump and then return to the tank. Could someone please explain what am I missing?

2002 HR Endeavor, 330 ISC

4 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Thanks! 
 

Gauge now on todo list. Do you keep a spare relay now?

It is on my list for onboard parts now LOL. 
 

Having only driven the coach with FASS, as it was my first mod, can you explain any differences you noticed? And pics of install as the OP is looking for install ideas 

The rely failure was unusual, I think it must have had a manufacturing defect. They usually last for years as long as you are not putting more current than their rating through them. I do carry a spare though. 

I notice no difference in driving the coach. The additional cooling and lubrication to the injection pump should hopefully increase it's life. One difference will be seen when changing fuel filters. Before the FASS pump, the lift pump was used after changing filters to prime them before starting the engine for the first time. The lift pump would only stay on for 30 seconds, so you had to turn the ignition switch on and off multiple times to insure that fuel would fill the cartridges. After installing the FASS pump the ignition switch can be turned once and left on until sufficient time has passed to fill the filters.

I'll add pictures of my FASS installation. It's similar to earlier posted pictures.

I installed the FASS pump 15,000 miles ago. Soon after installation, the relay providing power to the pump failed stopping the pump. With the FASS pump inoperative, the engine would barely run. This may have been due to inability of a worn injection pump to suck through the FASS pump and both fuel filters. The injection pump was replaced soon afterwards, so it was on it's last legs when this happened. This was my third injection pump in 120,000 miles. I hope the FASS pump improves longevity.

I have since installed a fuel pressure gauge with the sender placed between my second fuel filter and the injection pump. This allows me to always know that the FASS pump is operating properly and allows monitoring of my fuel filter condition. The gauge I installed was from Isspro, http://isspro.com/products.php?productid=1284. I ordered it with a 50 foot harness and a snubber kit. Since the sender is installed near the injection pump the snubber is needed to filter out pressure pulses. It has a programmable warning light that I set for 5 psi. I also ordered a chrome trim ring so that other than the red pointer it looks like the OEM gauges.

2002 HR Endeavor, ISC 330

16 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Hmm,  Why couldn't those of us with a side hydraulic fan come up with a modification to turn the fan up as high as possible when needed?    This could increase engine braking when on steep grades.   I know my temp gauge goes to near zero when descending Wolfcreek pass so my fan must be barely turning.

Come on engineers & others out there, would this be worthwhile?  Who among us couldn't us more braking on those mountain passes?

If possible, an additional benefit might be the ability to turn the fan to high at the bottom of a hill, thus extending the time you could be at full throttle on a hot day.

On 3/11/2021 at 3:32 PM, vanwill52 said:

I installed the Ag Diesel Solutions device about two years ago on my 2000 Dynasty 36 with ISC-350.  There was a modest increase in power but nothing dramatic.  I have been running it for a couple of years now without problems.  There was also an EXPECTED increase in EGT.  I controlled the EGT by raising the boost.  Raising boost alone absolutely does NOT increase power one iota in an engine already running properly.  Should you choose to install the Ag Diesel product, I suggest you install an EGT gage FIRST.  You will be surprised at how high the EGT can get in totally stock condition, so establish a baseline before you increase the fuel delivery.  There are several EGT gages available now which do not require 35 foot runs of Type K thermocouple wire.  They have an interface module that receives the millivolt signal from the thermocouple, amplifies it, and feeds it to the gage head along ordinary coppper wire.

Also, prior to installing the Ag Solutions device, I added a FASS fuel pump, the Titanium model with two fuel filters.  This mod has NOTHING to do with increasing power.  It was simply insurance to hopefully extend the life of my CAPS injection pump.  The CAPS injection pumps include a gear-driven pump as its "primary" section.  That gear pump sucks the fuel from your fuel tank through a very long hose and supplies the fuel to the injection side of the pump.  There will be (of course) a negative pressure (vacuum) at the fuel entry to the CAPS pump.  Cummins says their CAPS pumps can tolerate as much as Negative 5 PSI at the entry to the CAPS pump. There are quite a few documented cases that point to failures of the ($2000-$5000) CAPS pump being due to inadequate fuel flow THROUGH the pump.  In theory, the gear pump supplies considerably more fuel than required for injection, and the excess is returned to the tank through a manifold in the stock lift pump and a hose from the lift pump manifold to the fuel tank.  By design, this excess fuel is used to cool the CAPS pump.  When fuel filters become clogged (or any other condition restricts fuel flow) the amount of fuel available to cool the CAPS pump is reduced.  When filters are so clogged that you experience power loss from the engine, the amount of cooling fuel has become zero.  The FASS (or any other brand) fuel system supplies a POSITIVE pressure to the input section of the CAPS pump and insures there is always excess fuel passing through the pump, thereby cooling and lubricating it adequately.  Is this NECESSARY?  Obviously not.  Look how many CAPS pumps have survived high mileage with no problems.  But I think the evidence supports the fact that frequent, repeated fuel starvation can cause problems for the CAPS pump.  The FASS (or other) pump prevents fuel starvation.  Lastly, the FASS pump "bypasses" a very large quantity of fuel (approximately 95 gallons/hour) through a dedicated return line to the fuel tank after passing it through its two fuel filters, so your fuel is being constantly "polished" (filtered) any time the FASS pump is operating.

Along with the installation of the FASS fuel pump, I installed a fuel pressure gage.  My reason was initially that I simply wanted to see that the FASS pump system was working properly, since if it ceased functioning, the CAPS pump would have to suck even harder to draw fuel through the long line AND the internals of the FASS pump.  But there has been a really useful side-benefit to the fuel pressure gage.  During normal operation, even under WOT (wide open throttle), the fuel pressure is 15 PSI.  If it ever drops, even to 10 PSI under WOT, there is a fuel filter that needs changing.  So now I only change filters when necessary, not on a time-based schedule.  Also, the FASS pump becomes a "priming pump" so that it is not necessary to pre-fill fuel filters, even though that is a habit for me that I do not care to change.

Before asking questions, it will help you to read the several posts in the Cummins Engine forum on iRV2.  There is a lot of good information that will help you if you are considering modifications like these.  Of course there is a lot of BS there from over-enthusiastic, non-technical types, and you need to be able to separate the wheat from the chaff.  Example: 1) Someone replaces their ignition switch and now the coach runs better, idles smoother, and has more power. 2) A new low-restriction exhaust system has increased power noticeably.  3) Adding the FASS pump alone has increased power of the engine noticeably. 4) A self-proclaimed "expert" warns that increasing boost can cause a DIESEL engine to burn pistons due to "lean mixtures".  5) Increased boost pressure has resulted in dramatic power increases.

I installed a FASS pump after the third replacement of my injection pump at 100K miles. At the same time I installed a fuel pressure gage and an exhaust gas temperature gage. I placed the EGT probe just downstream of the #6 cylinder exhaust port because that cylinder runs hottest in ISC 330s

At the same time I had a AG Diesel RV Power Module installed along with a K&N air filter and a free flowing muffler. I think I noticed a small increase in power, but It is possible that it was just in my mind because of expectations. Unfortunately the AG Diesel RV Power Module failed shortly after installation. I chose not to replace it partly because I lost confidence in it , and partly because the difference it made was minor. (I received a refund)

I have spoken with Cummins about reprogramming my ISC 330 to 350. They said it was possible, but they recommended against doing so. 

2002 HR Endeavor, ISC 330 CAPS, towing 3500 lbs

1 hour ago, seadoo200hp said:

I have the fan from Source Engineering in my RR 2004 Diplomat 8.3, 330 HP.  Like it most of the time except for downhill driving.  I am talking Colorado and other western state downhill passes.  Seems like I have less engine braking then with the original fan.  Anyone else with a Source fan notice a difference? 

I've had the Source Engineering fan for about 5 years. I have not noticed a difference going down 6% grades, but I am quite conservative on my downhill speed and rarely exceed my 'Jake brake's' ability to hold the speed down. It's possible my comfortable downhill speed is decreased slightly with the new fan, but I have not noticed.

Another benefit of the fan is that it is much quieter than the stock fan. BTW my fan is always on, no fan clutch.

 2002 HR Endeavor, ISC 330

It'l take overnight to get completely cold.  Good news is that the cooling unit seems to be working.  The norcold 1200 monitors the temp only in the refrigerator. There's a clip with a wire going to it on one of the fins in the top right back of the refrigerator compartment. This is the part that senses the temperature. 

The cold refrigerant solution circulates first to the left freezer compartment, then to the right freezer compartment, before cooling the refrigerator compartment. So the first place to freeze will be the back of the left freezer compartment. (this is where to keep your icecream )

2000 HR Endeavor

Re: Norcold refrigerator.  Unless the owner does a lot of dry camping, as I do, a residential refrigerator is probably the best solution when the unit fails. In my case I chose to replace the Norcold cooling unit with an Amish cooling unit. I also have installed axillary fans, an automatic fire extinguisher, and the Fridge Defend control unit. The arprv.com website has extensive information on how these refrigerators work, and their various strong and weak points.  My freezer now stays between 8 and 15 degrees.

Of all the improvements I made, I think the Fridge Defend was the most important, as it addressed design defects in the refrigerator's control system. It will greatly improve safety and the longevity of the refrigerator, and prevent damage caused inadvertently by the owner. I recently bought a second RV, a small travel trailer with a dometic refrigerator.  One of the first improvements I made was to install the Fridge Defend and auxiliary fans on the refrigerator.

2002 HR Endeavor

My solar system will charge both the house and chassis batteries. When en route the alt light will come on once the voltage and/or current from the solar charge controller meets all of the needs that the alternator would normally be meeting. This serves me as a secondary indication that my batteries are fully charged. I'll usually turn off the solar system at the nest stop so I don't keep seeing the alt light.

2002 HR Endevour

If you haven't yet purchased the tow bar you might find this interesting. I used to have my Blue Ox tow bar inspected and serviced every other winter at the Quartzsite show. A couple of years ago they doubled the price but still refused to service my tow bar because of its age. (over 8 years) I replaced it with a Roadmaster bar with Blue Ox ends. Now I get it serviced and inspected every 2 years at the Quartzsite show free of charge. Do business with those who treat you well! 

I have been fulltiming in my 2002 Endeavor for 11 years. I re-stitched and repaired my Carefree Omega slide toppers twice before becoming a very happy Stone Vos customer. I installed my Stone Vos acrylic slide toppers over 4 years ago; they still appear like new. They are also pretty rugged. I used to bring my slides in when the desert winds kicked up, but now I just leave them out. (I did first have to retrofit the old manual anti-billow device to my large slide topper as the new style automatic device didn't work right) 

It's pretty common for we RV end users to feel abandoned by OEMs and component manufactures. I feel like we have an advocate in Stone Vos and Chris & Ingrid Throgmartin. They provide top quality products and solutions, and are generous with their knowledge and experience.

I fixed this problem in my 2002 Endeavour by replacing the blower motor resistor. It was located on the blower motor housing and is accessible from the front of the coach thru the generator door.