georgecederholm

14 minutes ago, Gary Petersen said:

In checking, I found that my regulator is broken and I need a replacement.

As per Georges suggestion above, I looked for a Watts 0-125 PSI. Those first described online are indicated for water use.

Does the regulator know if it is regulating water or air? Any recommendations for a specific replacement model?

2002' Sig

I could be wrong about the brand, since it was a while ago, but I think this is roughly equivalent.

https://www.amazon.com/Parker-14R118FC-Regulator-Relieving-Pressure/dp/B007FXJICQ/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=air%2Bregulator%2B1%2F4%2Bnpt%2B125%2Bpsi&qid=1635274352&qsid=143-1526941-0790323&sr=8-4&sres=B0081TJISW%2CB007FXJICQ%2CB07STNLFMS%2CB07STM6HGX%2CB01G2F6EMY%2CB01MDM25XT%2CB007FXK6FO%2CB07BRLXHHK%2CB073WWG91G%2CB008PZ6OWK%2CB0057D8LMY%2CB01BPQDG62%2CB016DB1XYG%2CB005JDKY68%2CB0142ALXTU%2CB07XYQJ19P&th=1

If you do choose to increase the tag pressure (weighing with motorcycle on board strongly recommended), it might make sense to check the specs on the pressure valve. Our 2005 Exec, either due to design on the 45 PBQ floor plan and/or the way we load things, requires about 60-65 PSI in the tag to get the front axle weight in line. I found our original tag regulator was only rated for 0-50 PSI, which explained why it constantly leaked air. I replaced it with a Watts 0-125 PSI regulator, which came with a new gauge, and haven’t had an issue since.

The floor plan and coach length can make a big difference to how much the tag needs to be loaded. Ours has a lighter generator up front (10k vs 12.5k), the washer/dryer aft of the bed, 8 house batteries instead of the original 4, and the chassis batteries right inside the engine compartment door. Plus, it has the Detroit Diesel option which I believe adds quite a bit of weight to the back over the ISM. That’s why everyone else’s experience might not directly translate, and why getting at least axle weights for individual motorhomes loaded for travel is so important.

On 10/20/2021 at 6:35 AM, SigPIlot said:

Not sure if it requires a "configuration" having never had one done, but my DD60 will automatically engage when over speeding the cruise control setting. Can't remember what the criteria is but probably around 5-10 mph. I'll have to check next time I find a hill worthy of speed generation (lol). Out west lots of hills. not so much in FL.

Hugh,

Thanks for confirming that what I'm looking for may be possible. I will pursue this with my local DD/Allison shop over the winter.

On 10/20/2021 at 1:21 PM, willbo777 said:

Just to add another two cents.  On our DD Series 60 on cruise, going downhill it will go as fast as you let it, but with Vorad if there is a vehicle in front of you, it will engage the Jake.

Bill B2,

Thanks; that's exactly how ours works now. I'm essentially looking to keep that but add the same effect based on MPH over the cruise setting. 

1 hour ago, vito.a said:

The issue with this is engaging the Jake brake disconnects the cruise control. 

The engine and trans communicate over the SAE J1939 bus using  a specified interface.  So, if it can be done Allison would be the folks to talk to.  

Does your Executive have the console mounted Jake, or the foot pedal?  Many folks prefer the foot pedal as you can engage it with your left foot and keep both hands on the wheel.  Maybe adding a Jake brake foot pedal would help.  

Frank's correct.  Monaco kept the Windsor a "lighter" weight diesel without a tag axle.  The early Windsor had the Cummins 5.9L, then in mid 1996 they upgraded to the C8.3L.  In 1998 they used the Cummins ISC (electronic version of the 8.3).  In 2003 they upgraded to the Cummins 8.9L ISL.

Vito,

Well, if I do try to get it changed, it’ll be at W.W.Williams, the Detroit/Allison shop in Phoenix, so they should be able to handle both sides.

That said, at least Frank has confirmed what I thought I remembered: it’s possible on electronic Cummins engines, at least those used in some models. And my configuration already allows concurrent Cruise and Jake use as that’s the way the Vorad system works.

As far as my setup, my 2005 Exec does not have the foot pedal but rather two Carling switches (On/Off, Hi/Lo) on the armrest console. If I pursue the change, I’ll ask about moving the switch to see if that makes a difference.

Thanks,

3 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

I don't know about a Detroit diesel but on a Cummins, that feature exist for most engine models.  The ECM feature is set via the Cummins Insite software by turning on the feature and setting the speed in terms of MPH above the cruise control set speed that it will turn on the Jake brake.  You must also turn off the feature that automatically cancel the cruise control so that the cruise control automatically resumes after the Jake is turned off.

Frank,

Thanks for confirming what I thought I remembered. I knew I recalled that multiple settings were needed. I’m not sure how my Vorad is configured to engage the Jake without cancelling the Cruise, but I know it’s possible.

Thanks,

Just a quick post to see if anyone knows this before I start checking with my Detroit Diesel shop and have them laugh at me…

I remember (I think!) from years ago that some of the early-to-mid-2000s Windsors (Dave O, maybe) were programmed to automatically engage the exhaust/engine brake if speed increased a set MPH a over the cruise control speed value, while the cruise was engaged. I seem to recall that this was done via the engine software parameters. This generated mixed opinions, of course, and I didn’t pursue it at the time.

So, my question is: does anyone know if this kind of setting is generic enough that it might be available on a 2004-built Detroit Diesel Series 60? We have changed toads (complicated story) and the new one cautions against speeds over 65 MPH. I know that’s not an absolute, but I’m used to letting speeds get up to the mid-70s on moderate long downgrades, and I’m fussing a bit to keep things in check. I know that cruise and Jake can interact well, since my Vorad system will apply the Jake if needed to maintain distance with a slower vehicle while the cruise is on.

Thanks in advance…

As it happens, I have 2 of the Icon Direct covers for the original Penguin models sitting in the son-in-law’s barn. I had replaced all 3 of ours just before the roof units needed to be replaced. They are in north-central Connecticut. Free to any Monacoer who can pick them up or is willing to pay the $hipping. Send a private message or email george.cederholm@gmail.com if interested.

20 hours ago, Gary Petersen said:

My problem is with the kitchen sink drain in our 2002' Signature Centurion which has the drivers side kitchen slide-out. We started getting  sink water running across the floor whenever we drained the kitchen sink. I thought at first, this sounds like a reasonably easy plumbing issue to fix. Wow, was I wrong.

I located the white colored, and stiffly corrugated 1 1/2" PVC Flexible drain pipe. I found that due to the lack of cabinet space, I could see that the pipe had been abruptly kinked to 90 degrees against the inside wall of the cabinet, specifically when the sink is in the "slide-in" position. Question: Could this possibly be Monaco's original design? Or did I find some after market repair? 

This sharp 90 degree kinking occurs just after the transition from ABS to the flexible drain. It must have happened so many times that it fractured the flexible corrugated  pipe. (photo below)

This design requires that the drain pipe be flexible so as to maintain the the integrity of the drain while constantly flexing as it maintains the 180 degree turn as the "slide-out" travel makes the pipe move several inches.

I cut out the "kink" and tried to reconnect the piping using a Fernco fitting with double hose clamps but the drain pipe pulls out of the Fernco when the Slide is sent out.

Is this the original plumbing system and has anyone else had to deal with this? I am north of Seattle; can anyone suggest a shop that may be  familiar with this Monaco system? 

Thanks, Gary

 

 

As mentioned, this is a moderately common issue, and there are write-ups in the Files section on Monacoers and various threads on other sites.

It’s not terribly hard to replace the “flex” hose. The transitions from the white PVC to the black ABS should be threaded. Cut the “flex” hose close to the fitting and unscrew the PVC. You can get replacement PVC fittings and the hose (called “spa hose”) at Home Depot or equivalent.

You can also make things a bit easier by using more flexible hose. I used the 1” plastic hose and a simple step-down PVC bushing with a barbed adapter. Much easier to replace if anything bad happens in the future, and plenty of capacity for whatever goes down the kitchen sink.

Your pictures and diagram (+) appear to show the “trolley” that’s supposed to slide in and out and stabilize the hose when moving. You’ll want to make sure that moves freely and address any issues with movement. This would also be a good time to make sure that movement hasn’t caused any excess stress on the entire ABS pipe back towards the stove and sink. Ours developed a crack behind a cabinet that had to be replaced.

https://ourrvrepairs.blogspot.com/2015/01/kitchen-sink-drain-fix-round-2.html

Or, on Monacoers web site, navigate to Home > Downloads > Water Systems and you’ll find a couple of files on Kitchen Sink Drain issues.

George C, 2005 Exec
 

9 hours ago, Paul Busch said:

Does anyone know what muffler I need for a 2005 signature Castle 4 with series 60 engine?

thanks paulb

Paul,

If you’re talking about an exact replacement, I’m not sure I’ve ever seen any data on brand/model. But, many people have used the AeroTurbine 5050XL as a replacement. I used one until the inlet tube cracked due to bad stainless welds, and replaced that with a similar DynaFlex from Summit Racing. Basically, you just need to match the overall length and make sure the replacement isn’t larger in diameter than the height of the original oval one. Unless your exhaust has been customized, you should have 5-inch inlet and outlet sizes. I left the original brackets in place but replaced the hanger straps with the second aftermarket installation at about 10 years old.

I had to replace the blades on our 2005 Exec (Detroit, side radiator) several years ago. If I recall correctly, the blades have a fixed pitch that is molded into the hub ends. It’s a 2-part hub that comes apart to fit the blades into each socket.

Ours needed to be replaced because the welds failed on the “X” frame that Monaco fabricated to hold the fan motor in place. It was only held on in one corner. I was able to salvage enough blade debris to get the part number to order from MultiWing. I think the direction, pitch and length were coded into the part numbers. I think ours took 12 blades.

I usually caution folks with similar setups to check their fan motor bracket for cracks at least annually. 

4 hours ago, planodp said:

Got everything back together. Replaced all o-rings and 1 complete Raise solenoid assembly (left raise) on the driver side manifold . The system was working correctly but now it not. This is what it doing, when put in travel mode the driver side complete lower and the passenger side rise to the max height. Went back and recheck all of the solenoid plugs to verify that the plug are plug into the correct plug on the pig tail connection. All the plug are correctly plug in. Looking for the HWH control box that is suppose to be in the center bay didn't see it. Is it on top under the cover? Anybody have any suggestion? This is crazy! Thanks in advance.

Our Exec is 2005, so might be different. Our HWH "control box" is mounted to the ceiling of the large pass-thru bay, in the center covered by a large panel. The panel covering the center of the bay is held on with 4-6 screws which can be hard to see unless laying on your back with a flashlight. Ours also has a drop-down hatch built into the panel specifically for the HWH box, but it's a little tight to get the box in and out through that hole. The control box is screwed to the bay ceiling with some custom brackets; you should be able to remove the control box by just loosening the screws holding the brackets.

I can echo most of the comments above from experience. I removed the manifolds because I thought I should bench test everything before calling it “done”, which was extra work and hard to verify in the pin out. There are actually 3 o-rings per valve (detailed write-up with pictures on the hated iRV2), and I had to get and modify a special wrench used on nitrous injection kits to access the internal one. Most of the air lines needed to be trimmed to clean stock to re-attach without leaks; plan to trim them all. Many of the fittings needed to be replaced as well. Many of the air lines were already too short and/or routed at weird angles by Monaco, so I had to get more air line and make up short “jumpers” with elbows to get them to align correctly. 

Glad I did it but wouldn’t do it again. Lasted ~5 years before I made a stop at HWH in Iowa and they ended up replacing 3 (of 18) solenoids, which weren’t leaking but not operating correctly.

We have a 2005 Executive so things might be different. A couple of thoughts:

Do you know the model number of the Aqua-Hot? You might have AHE-100-02S or AHE-100-03S depending on the build date. There could be differences in the control scheme, and where to find things, between the models. Ours was built April 2004 and had the 03S.

Did you have the 12VDC power off for any reason lately? The 03S model has a “Low Voltage Cutoff” circuit that drops out when 12VDC drops below ~10.5 volts (low batteries or turned off).

19 hours ago, DavidL said:

repeat compressor failures is usually associated with not flushing the system out thoroughly after the last failure.  Or not replacing the dryer.  Second cause is lack of lubrication.  If the system has been leaking and the freon keeps getting topped up to keep it running without adding the proper oil, then the oil leaves with the freon and makes the compressor run dry.  Or crappy parts.

David A/L,

Thanks for the quick response. I did not do the work after the first failure in 2012, so I don't know if they flushed the system or just evacuated (guessing the latter). I realize that it's coincidental that I've experienced another failure roughly 8 years later, so it could be that some contamination circulated for 8 years before getting trapped in the compressor.

I do know that the receiver/drier was replaced in 2012, and I replaced it again now. Since 2012, I'd say that maybe 2 12-ounce cans of R-134A were added. I don't know enough about dilution to know if that would have necessitated adding lubricant but will research.

The original compressor was a Sanden (based on the Build Sheet) and the 2012 replacement was a Four Seasons. Do you know if either brand qualifies as "crappy"?

Thanks,

19 hours ago, SkyKingII said:

This post raises a very important question because I have added freon to my systen 3-4 times in past 14 yearsnever more thana pound or less to complete charge.Could someone please share a particular brand of oil that has been successfully used and how to install to system? I would rather add some oil than new system! 

 Thank's,

Bruce Crocker 

2004 Diplomat 40' PDQ 

Bruce,

It's called "PAG Oil" and comes in 46 and 100 weight viscosity. I found a "Supercool" brand 8-ounce bottle of PAG 46 on Amazon and added 4 ounces directly to the compressor using the port on top of the housing.A tag on the housing said it was pre-charged with 3 ounces and oil needed to be added, but not how much.  I will say that the manufacturer's documentation for the compressor was completely silent on general quantities needed; everything was make/model-specific and "Monaco" wasn't listed. I have no idea if I have too much or too little. A "x ounces per y pounds of R-134A" guideline  or something similar would have been very helpful.

I also found a video on Youtube showing how to add oil via one of the Schrader ports, but I had the new compressor on the bench prior to installation so didn't need to go that route (and I don't have a vacuum pump).

Hopefully, someone with more experience can clarify.

Thanks,

18 hours ago, Ivan K said:

You are right about the low pressure switch,  it should be there and the clutch lead should go through it.  Ours is right at the drier up front. You can test it since your systems is or will be evacuated. Once you locate the switch, you might also remove it without losing any pressure and test it that way, should be open with no pressure to it. You might also have a high pressure switch,  I don't.

I used PAG 100 oil, I think, but it's been a while  since then and I don't see the viscosity being that critical. There should be a mention in your manual? In a pressurized system you would need an Injector or a pressurized can and alway fill the low pressure side very slowly.

Ivan K,

I plan to do some diagnostic work on the pressure switch before having the system evacuated and charged. I'll also research how much oil should really be used.

Thanks,

7 hours ago, David White said:

First let me say that I’m no AC expert, but picked up a bit of information on compressor failure from several sources, and the information is the same.

I have a 2005 Windsor, side radiator with a Danfoss controller.  It seems they were programmed to not turn on at low rpms (such as idle), unless the engine temp calls for fan.  My Ac cooling is mounted with the radiator.  Some were mounted up front and had a fan to cool.

So, many times while stopped and idling, the AC is not getting proper cooling and that is a killer for compressors.  Some people simple turn the AC off when idling or add a supplement cooling fans which runs anytime the AC is on.

David W,

I've seen those posts over the years but my system has the A/C condenser mounted just behind the front axle. I will definitely try to see if there is a different issue with mine that could cause the same failures, though.

Thanks,

I'm just wrapping up replacement of the dash air conditioning compressor in our 2005 Exec with the Series 60. I was on a short exercise run and was checking to see if the dash system was cooling -- the incorrect way, by putting it on MAX AC and seeing if it go cold. Note to self: that's what gauges are for. The compressor froze up and shredded the serpentine belt. Fortunately, ours only uses one belt, so the only loss was charging from the alternator but it runs OK with the generator on charging the chassis bank through the Big Boy (another story on corrosion inside that).

My question is: aren't these systems supposed to self-protect and refuse to engage the clutch if pressure is too low? Does anyone know how to test this function short of destroying another compressor and belt by running it without refrigerant?

I don't recall seeing a lot of posts on this issue over the years, although I did have the exact same issue back in 2012. Coincidence that I'm losing the compressor roughly every 8 years? I generally never thought of replacing the A/C compressor as a PM item.

For info and the Parts List, the original Sanden U4420 compressor was replaced with a Four Seasons 68158. The drier was Global Parts 1411487. About $250 total in parts to replace. Invested maybe another $60 for a flush tank and fluid.

Key reminder: even though I always try to take a picture(s) when replacing parts, when the belt shreds it's tough to tell how it was routed. I wasted a couple of days (and a few Amazon returns) fussing with the wrong size belt before I got a picture of a similar setup (thanks, Paul Busch!) and magically the original sized belt was perfect.

20 minutes ago, RVSSNAKE said:

20 hours ago, Mocephus said:

Mine is the wax valve setup that screws into the radiator so hopefully this will be an easy fix!

I would be curious as to how much fluid loss you have in the change, both hydraulic and radiator. 

I’d also be interested in a picture of the wax valve and specifics on part number(s), as I’m pretty sure our 2005 Exec with the DD60 has the Infamous Sauer Danfoss electronic fan controller.

As an aside to one of the comments made in this thread, be wary of dash A/C that’s “not very cold”. It’s probably wise to get a gauge on it and verify pressures, and add refrigerant if needed sooner rather than later. If the R134A gets too low, sometimes these A/C compressors will have the low pressure cut-off switch fail, run on empty, and eventually completely lock up. When that happens, it only takes a few minutes to burn through the serpentine belt. Happened to me in 2012 and again last month. I’d turned the dash A/C on to see if it was cooling on an exercise run and forgot to turn it off. About $250 into the repair so far...

Scotty,

Saw that; will be interesting to see if it drives any traffic.

I was a little surprised that Monacoers wasn’t mentioned in the most recent Monaco International newsletter, in their article about “how to get help more effectively”.  Probably an oversight.

1 hour ago, Paul Busch said:

George,

I am leaving in a little while and won’t be able to order the optiLube you recommended. I picked up some BG 245 from NAPA. Do you think it would hurt to run it for a tankful till I get to where I will be for a while to order the other product?

I also have some DieselKleene with Cetene Boost. Could I run that? I am trying to clean up one injector before it dies. I am leaving on the 16th for about an 750 mile trip and will be parked for another month then.

paul

Paul,

I think the concern I would have, echoing what Steven A said, is that any additive might not “recover” an injector that’s failing to the point of throwing a code. I’m not sure you mentioned how you determined the code (code reader vs DDA shop pulling codes), and if you had any other symptoms other than the code. If just a single code, maybe a fluke and a trip would be low risk. If smoke, de-rating, overheating on minor grades, smell of diesel fuel on the dipstick, or loss of power, well then I’d probably have a shop look at it before a trip.

In terms of additives, that can be kind of a Ford/Chevy thing, with everyone having a favorite. I’d use what I had on hand before switching brands.

As I think I mentioned earlier, I’ve had two injector issues since 2007. The first threw no codes, just froze up. I drove maybe 5 miles before the oil pressure dropped as the crankcase was flooded with fuel. The second time, nothing froze up but I started throwing smoke, hard. Decided to try to make the run from Gulf Shores to Phoenix more or less non-stop. Started seeing “check engine” around San Antonio and overheating on minor grades in Hill Country. This continued all through New Mexico and into Arizona, and I had to keep “engine load” (SilverLeaf) under 75-85%, no matter how slow I got on hills. But, we made it to home and I was then able to let WWWilliams have the rig for several day$ to get the repairs done.

As an aside, I can throw codes for no particular reason, relatively often. “Check Engine” will come on and might clear in a few seconds, or might not until the next restart. Mostly it happens when driving ~25-30 MPH on flat ground. Sometimes I can clear it by goosing the accelerator. Other times, I have to press the up/down buttons on the speedo to turn off the noise. It’ll do something similar if I leave Jake Low on too long descending a hill. I toggle between Low and High to avoid this. When I check the SilverLeaf log files, there is usually a bunch of gobbledygook. Neither the SilverLeaf nor DDA people can explain it, other than “noise on the bus”. I’ve learned to live with it...

I had a similar issue on our early-build (April 2004) model year 2005 Exec. Different floor plans and options can influence weight distribution, of course. Our 45PBQ has dual bedroom slides and the Splendide almost in a rear corner, and the heavy Detroit Diesel engine option. Then we added 4 more house batteries. I found that I needed ~60 PSI in the tag regulator to get axle weights close to right.

When mine leaked, I pulled it apart, cleaned everything, and reinstalled. OK for a while but started leaking again about a year later. When I pulled it again, I realized that it had “0-60 PSI” molded into the body. I think it was a “Norton” regulator? Anyway, I replaced it with a 0-125 PSI Watts regulator I grabbed from Amazon. Over-engineered, but no more leaks from running at the edge of specs.

2 hours ago, Paul Busch said:

George, Which optiLube are you using?

Paul,

I use the OptiLube "Summer" formula. We spend the winters in AZ and really don't travel to cold enough weather to need the "Winter" formula, and I haven't tried any of the other variations.

On 4/5/2021 at 8:10 AM, Paul Busch said:

Turns out engine check code was failing injector. Still seems to run pretty good. Any additive I can use to improve? Looks like big job to change myself.

paul

Paul, 

Are you still using the original spec for the secondary fuel filter, 23530707? This is a 9-micron filter and DD changed their spec in the late 2000s for the Series 60 to a tighter filter, 23533726, which I think was 5-micron. I’ve been using a Donaldson cross-reference, P556917, that’s 3-micron ever since I had two injectors fail during a cross-I10 run back in 2011. Gulf Shores to Phoenix smoking like a steam locomotive. This was after I had an injector freeze up back in 2007, sacrificing a rocker arm and flooding the crankcase with diesel fuel. I’ve tightened up all my filters since (primary, secondary, generator, Aqua-hot) while staying within the GPH requirements. 

Years ago I switched to mostly Donaldson filters on the recommendation of Bill D. Like Richard S, I use a compound additive of OptiLube and Biobor JF, also based on recommendations made here over the years.

Keep an eye out for continuing injector issues, and by that I mean a eye on the right rear view. Once they start to go bad, you’ll start seeing smoke, almost like a cracked CAC. When I had to have mine replaced, it was close to the same parts cost for all six in a pack as for the three (two failed and one starting to) I needed, so I had WWWilliams do them all.

https://shop.donaldson.com/store/cartridges/ProductDetails-DCI/?_DARGS=/store/cartridges/ProductDetails-DCI/ProductDetails-DCI.jsp.1#

On 3/11/2021 at 6:37 PM, woodylmiller said:

I apologize in advance, I can't find the files to check to see if what I'm looking for might be there.  Anyway, I want to replace the hoses on my 09 Dynasty ISM 500.  They are not leaking, just want to take care of some simple stuff before the next 15,000 mile trip.  Does anyone know the hoses I need, or where to find the files that may have that information?  thanks, 

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty Regal IV, ISM 500

22 hours ago, Ivan K said:

I'm also curious if there is a list of hoses for ISM with side radiator. I carry 2 pairs of Dayco elbows that look usable after modifications but certainly not a direct replacement.

The Monacoers Parts List contains some radiator hose numbers for some applications, mostly anecdotal “this is what I used” info. I have never seen a comprehensive list, recognizing that it would have to be fairly large because of the different engines and configurations Monaco (and HR and Safari and Navistar and REV) used over the years.

That said, I found a Gates hose identification web site that has dimensions (some need different I. D. Values on each end) and rough bend diagrams. With a Gates number, you can search online to find the best price and cross-fit.

https://assets.gates.com/content/dam/gates/home/resources/resource-library/catalogs/gates-molded-coolant-hose-id-guide_web.pdf#page1

I developed a pin-hole leak in the upper hose due to rubbing against a bracket several years ago while driving down the Oregon Coast. I was able to use the Gates guide to find the closest fit and got a cross-reference at the local Napa. Changed it in the RV Park without getting caught.

In 2019, I decided to change the other three hoses as a precaution ~15 years old). Found everything, at least close, in the Gates list and then started shopping. Found the best prices at Amazon and one at Walmart.com, of all places. One was a direct fit and the other two needed to have a couple of inches trimmed. Got all new clamps from Amazon. Napa had some of what I needed but at 2x the price, and would have had to order in anyway so delivery matched the ship times from the online outlets. We have the Detroit engine from 2004, so my numbers likely wouldn’t help with a 2009 ISM.

As David notes above, this is a known, albeit not commonly discussed, issue with rigs of the OP’s vintage. It does not relate to clogged drain lines or over-tightened gaskets. 

One way to partially address the issue, short of what David described as the true fix, is to carefully build up the roof underlay to raise the level of the fiberglass roof skin relative to the air conditioner opening. The roof skin is not fully attached to the underlay level in most cases. Years ago, someone described a process of lifting the fiberglass roof layer and sliding thin shims into place to raise the roof level. I did this on our 2005 Exec while I had the front air conditioner off to fix a gasket issue. I slid a piece of luan about 2 feet wide and 4 feet long under the fiberglass at the rear side of the opening, then another piece about 2 feet by 2 feet on top of that. I didn’t want to do more at that time because I was unsure of the impact.

Adding almost 1/2 inch of thickness under the fiberglass reduced the ponding significantly, to the point where I don’t feel the need to do more. I am careful to not step in the area where the most unsupported lift is, so might “feather” out the added support in the future, if I need to have the roof unit off. If I had more time and the right tools, I probably would have feathered the edges of the luan before sliding them in place.

Probably not a solution for everyone, but definitely a cheaper alternative to get partial relief.

On 2/27/2021 at 7:32 AM, rpasetto said:

I currently have two Chassis batteries: 12v, connected in parallel, 1100CCA AGM; the label says "X2power" brand. I have been thinking of replacing them; do not know their age.  The size is Group 31.

(Monaco WD book specs a pair of 950CCA  Interstates as standard.  WD book specifies an option of "4 12v AGM 1400T", which I think are Lifelines.) 

Has anyone replaced their pair of chassis batteries with three, or four 12v in parallel?   Tray size measures 20 1/16" wide by 13 3/4" deep.

Rick P,

I replaced the two Group 31 starting/chassis batteries (originally 950 CCA but those were hard to come by at a reasonable price) with three Group 78 800 CCA 12VDC batteries. I did not have enough lateral room to add a third Group 31 without relocating the primary fuel filter mounting bracket. I did have to fabricate a new tray, which I did out of basic 1-inch angle iron. I already had a hydraulic crimper on hand from making house bank cable replacements, so the jumpers were relatively simple. I used 1"x1/8" copper bar stock to make some extenders for the terminals to help with fit and strain reduction.

5 hours ago, Brett63 said:

Everything reads off of the #1 AC control board. In my coach I only have one thermostat. In the cases of there being two the hidden board will be near the living room thermostat. I have yet to see or hear of on NOT very close to the main thermostat.

Brett,

Good info. For the original poster with two thermostats, he may need to check near both, even though the rear (bedroom) thermostat was the one initially configured to control the center (non-roof-unit) zone.

When I finished upgrading our roof units and new thermostats, I moved the center (shower/lavatory) zone to the front thermostat because I needed to replace the data cable anyway. I did this because our 3-A/C system has the "center" roof unit in the kitchen area and I found it easier to use that way. I retained the bedroom thermostat, although I sometimes wish I'd just eliminated it and run all 3 zones off the front thermostat.

21 minutes ago, pcpronze said:

Thanks for the response.   That is the story I have picked up but the real question is where they hid the board.   The false wall section behind the thermostat has the data cable headed up toward the ceiling.   The next area I am thinking about is where the actual temperature sensor is located, which is on the other side of the room at the bottom of a vanity cabinet.  I well report back on my findings.

Well, the remote temperature sensor also has to connect to the control board (usually a white dipole connector), so that would be the logical place for the control board as well. On ours, those vanity cabinet walls run top-to-bottom, so there would be plenty of room in there for the control board (~4x5x2?). Monaco was known for taking the easiest path for construction, so it would be logical that they would have run the data cable and Aqua-Hot control wires together. 

Happy hunting!