hex_nut
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Posts posted by hex_nut
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My 1/4 inch ball valves that drain my air tanks are leaking (I have 4 of them). Some time back in one of the discussions about air leaks, someone posted a picture and description of quality replacements for these ball valves. I have searched the forum but have not been able to find the reference. I think it was Scotty that posted the picture. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks
Richard
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If you are referring to the rubber plug that goes in the center of the Stemco covers in liquid oil filled hubs, I have found them available in most truck stops. Or, here is a link on Amazon.
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Many years ago, I was in need of one of these. There were none available anywhere (just like now). I took a walk in the back lot of Colaw's RV salvage and retrieved a couple of used ones from wrecked RVs. You might try the salvage yards, but I suspect any usable ones have long since been retrieved. I have known others who have replaced the servo motor valve with a mechanical one. A friend of mine adapted a cable actuated valve so he could still control it from the dash controls. I saw another that was just a lever actuated valve, but it would be darned inconvenient to have to stop, go out front and turn the lever when you wanted to change from heat to air conditioning. Another friend replaced his with a later module unit that had the control board built into the control valve rather than being in the wiring harness. The bad part was he had to replace the dash control and wiring harness out to the valve. He removed all those parts from a wrecked unit in a salvage yard. This is a sticky situation to be in and there is not a nice solution if you cannot find a working control board. Good luck.
Richard
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I have towed 3 different CRV's as dinghy's. Both 2wd and AWD versions are flat towable. The critical part is that you MUST follow the transmission shift pattern preparations for towing (With engine running, brake on, shift into Drive, wait 5 seconds, shift to Neutral and turn engine off, leaving steering wheel unlocked. If you shift into Neutral from Reverse, it will leave the clutch pack engaged and you will damage the transmission if towed.) I love my CRV's. Good luck with yours. I am sad that the newer ones (after 2014) are no longer towable.
Richard
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When leaving Port "A", I always stop at the self serve car wash on cut-off road before I head to the ferry. They have an outside bay on the end for oversize vehicles. It lets me wash of the dust and salt before I hit the road. I also get down and wash as much of the under carriage as I can reach. It is messy and I have to change clothes before proceeding, but the rust damage to the under carriage is nasty and I try to minimize it.
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I just finished cleaning the Hadley solenoid on my '06. Mine is located in the FRB below the driver. I have to periodically clean the plunger to free it up so it will continue to work. The metal plunger gets corroded in the damp air and will not retract with the solenoid coil. A little cleaning and it is as good as new. The first time this happened to me years ago, I bought a new Hadley solenoid ($50). Since then, I have learned to just clean it periodically and save the $50.
Richard
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I bought this one from Amazon. Expensive, but works perfect.
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Bill
A short story about why I was required to go with a compressor type refrigerator:
Years ago my wife and I were looking for a dining table and chairs to replace the booth dinette in our '98 Tradewinds. So, I took my wife with me on a walk through the back lot of Colaw's RV salvage in Missouri. After a few minutes my wife asked; "Why do all these really nice high-dollar motorhomes have the big burn hole in the side?" Without thinking I responded, "That's where the propane fridge used to be before it caught fire". I realized my mistake, but it was too late. So, that is how I got to do a conversion to an electric compressor refrigerator. So, always think before you speak.
Richard
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Bill
I will echo what Rocketman said. I went with the Samsung residential since it was much cheaper than the Fisher/Paykel (and it fit my unit). It has been 8 years and we are very happy with the results. We boondock extensively and were very pleasantly surprised with how little extra Generator time was required to compensate for the fridge (about an extra hour a day). I installed a dedicated small inverter for the fridge because I found that the large Magnum inverter was extremely wasteful of battery power. If I had it to do over today, I would choose a 12 volt DC powered fridge. They are much more efficient than using inverters to convert DC power to AC (the power lose in conversion is excessive). I have heard good things about the 12 volt DC powered units supplied by JCRefigeration. So, I recommend you do some research before you even consider replacing your unit with another expensive absorption unit. Anyone who tells you that compressor refrigerators are not compatible with boondocking needs to update their thinking. It may have been true years ago, but certainly not anymore with the improvements in inverter compressor technology. My Samsung uses the equivalent of a 75 watt light bulb. Good luck with your replacement.
Richard
Bill
Since you have already lost the hinges on your Norcold, it would not be practical to replace just the cooling unit in it. The hinges are a common failure point and cannot be realistically repaired. I never recommend replacing just the cooling unit in an absorption fridge unless the cabinet is in pristine condition.
Richard
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I had the same type of issues. Following the troubleshooting chart is very important. In my case, I got to the part of testing the ignition coil and found my problem. A week coil will not consistently provide ignition. First I replaced the old coil ignition wires, no joy. So, I replaced the coil ($$$$). It has worked flawlessly ever since.
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I don't know which brand of gauges you have in the HR. I have Beede gauges in my '06 Monaco built Beaver. The glass cover over each Beede gauge is crimped onto the plastic housing. They can be removed, but it is a tedious and difficult process to uncrimp the metal ring without damaging the plastic housing. I personally would not attempt it just to clean the glass. I have done a couple of mine but only to repair the gauge. Good luck.
Richard
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I "assume" your Ranger is the 4X4 version with the neutral position for the transfer case which is the only 2020 Ranger that is listed as towable. I have worn out a couple of the BX4325 tow bars (many, many miles) and have found them to be a good tow bar. I bought them both used with little prior usage (much cheaper than new). Good luck with shifting to 4-down towing. I would NEVER willingly go back to a tow dolly.
Richard
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I am a big fan of Eternabond tape, especially on the seams to the front and rear caps. The key to good adhesion on Eternabond is correct preparation. Thoroughly cleaning off the old "crap" is very important. Then remember that Eternabond is a pressure sensitive tape and must be firmly rolled down with a hard roller. Years ago, I actually resorted to using an angle grinder with a coarse wire brush to remove the layers of old caulk on the roof seams. It was messy and complicated the cleanup process, but it worked. Hopefully, you can get the old stuff off with a combination of heat and scraping. Good luck with your project.
Richard
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The Splendide combo is probably the most common. They are a bit small and leave your clothes a bit wrinkled. But, they are probably the best option available. We would not be without ours. We do not have room for a stackable, which is what we would prefer. So, you do the best with what you have. I prefer the vented version rather than the condensation dryer version. The condensation version takes longer, so I would recommend you put in the vent.
Richard
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I had the same problem with my C7 and now with my C9. I ordered a manual liquid transfer pump like this:
solved my problem.
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Jason
Do you have HWH air leveling? If so, then the air pathway thru the ride height valve is controlled by the Travel solenoid valve on the HWH six pack. It sounds like you may have a stuck Travel mode valve, or an electrically failed Travel mode solenoid. I carry a spare HWH solenoid just for this situation. All the solenoids on the six pack are the same, so having a spare will work in any position.
Richard
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John
Yes! I have had the 40250 cover off and torqued all the connections. No change. I did manually hold the contactor closed and that did stop the chatter, so I am relatively sure the contactor is going bad. Either that or there is a problem with my 8K generator providing power, but the generator continues to run with no error codes set.
I also hate to throw parts at a problem unless I am fairly sure I have determined were the problem lies. Thanks for your input.
Richard
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John
My generator contactor starts chattering and drops connection with any load above about 15 amps. The generator continues to run with no load as the ATS goes through its timed delay process and then reconnects to generator power. This process just repeats itself as long as the load is present. It will support the battery charger (12 to 13 amp load), but not the microwave or an air conditioner. Does all that make sense?
Richard
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John
It is the generator side contactor that has failed on mine. Are the two contactors (shore and generator) in the 40250 the same? If so, I can order the single contactor you found on Amazon and replace the failed generator one on mine (or just order two and replace them both). Thanks for your assistance.
Richard
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Richard
Here is the quote from Hydronic Heating Warehouse:
Operation of "Diesel" light inside coach is different than the older boxes. On heating systems with an electronic board the switch light illuminates when burner is operation.
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I have that issue when I have not used the washer/dryer for a while and the P-trap in the drain becomes empty allowing the gray tank to vent back into the coach. I simply add a quart of water to the washer and run the drain cycle to replenish the water in the P-trap.
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Jeff
You did not specify the age of your Splendide unit. I had an older unit that exhibited those issues. In frustration I took the cabinet apart and found a set of shocks and springs that supported and inhibited movement during spinning. The shocks were totally worn out allowing the drum to bounce around and hit the insides of the cabinet. I attempted to find replacement parts to no avail. They were simply not available on that old model unit. I fabricated rubber bumpers to minimize the movement and continued to use the unit until I eventually sold that motorhome. Good luck in finding a resolution.
Richard
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The covers with the holes are intended for the heat-pump models with reversing switches. Without those holes for just AC.
Need to replace air tank drains
in Compressed Air Systems
Posted
Ivan
Mine are plumbed remote. They are like the bottom 2 in this picture I borrowed from Bart.