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hitechpete

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Posts posted by hitechpete

  1. Hi when I replaced the slide seal on my 2000 Diplomat, the seal was similar to an Auto bulb seal with an additional wiper moulded on. The seal just clips onto the slide opening. It was fiddly to fit due to the confined workspace, and having to make cuts in the blade at the vertical to horizontal transitions. TIP run some sealer into the seal before or after installation to prevent water rotting the metal “U”.

  2. On 2/14/2020 at 6:44 AM, whaley96raw said:

    I finally found out the cause for my tach's erratic performance. my mechanic found it by accident. He reached under the dash and found that when he touched the cable, it seemed to work just fine. So, he tightened the connection on the back of the gauge  by twisting the connector and it has worked perfectly ever since. Go figure.

    I had a similar problem with the speedometer on my 2000 Diplomat, same cure!

  3. 20 hours ago, ERNIEMA said:

    Ideas please: I placed my 2001 Monaco Diplomat inside a building after driving from Michigan to Naples.  It is plugged in but no A/C on as it is in a building and an overhead door gets opened often by the owner. A week or so later the owner let me know the coach was leaning left.  I called my usual service provided in Michigan and he explained the culprit was the "ride height control valve."  He offered advice.

    I would like your opinions to verify and compare to his opinions.  One of his opinions was "to leave it for now.  Air the coach up and leave in May and see if the issue continues, as it may just be stuck."   Another opinion was to take it out now and see.  I explained that getting into this storage spot involved inches....and I would prefer not having to move it now.

    So.... your ideas please.  I can move it a few feet up and back, buy taking it out is touchy.  Btw, incidentally, I have 137,000 miles on it and Cummins services all under the floor regularly. Cummins did extensive work in 2018 snd said it was a 9 of 10 then under the floor.  $15,000 bill that I was happy to pay.

    Ernie Maier

    248 789-5809

    2001 Monaco Diplomat

    2005 Silverado

    My 2000 Diplomat did the same thing after being left parked for a year or so without being moved. The problem was caused by the rubber link that attached the ride height linkage to the chassis having perished. I resolved it by replacing all 3 linkages with stainless steel Rose joints, threaded rod and stand-offs.

  4. Both my 2000 Diplomat mirror arms and bases had badly peeling chrome plating. I contacted Velvac tech support, who emailed me a template to correctly identify the base radius, and contact details for a U.K. (where I’m based) dealer who could supply the parts.

    • Like 1
  5. If your system is like the one on my 2000 Diplomat, the motor drives a long horizontal shaft, to which is fitted a pair of spur gears. On mine, the spur gears are attached to the shaft with Roll pins, one of which may have broken, so the slide is only being driven from one end and dragged in at the other end.

    • Like 1
  6. 3 hours ago, Harvey Babb said:

    When minevfroze several years ago it showed the same symptoms.  I finally traced the problem to the pressure switch in the pump. Unfortunately a replacement switch wasn't available so I had to replace the entire pump. 

    If you can get to the wires going to the pump check to see if you have 12 volts. If you do the problem is the pump motor or the pressure switch. If no 12 volts then keep looking for devices already mentioned by others above.

    When the pressure switch on mine was damaged by a slow water leak, I removed the microswitch and replaced it with one I purchased from a local electronic component supplier over here in the U.K. Check Amazon.com for USA, and a more exact match to the exact component.

    image.thumb.png.0ce638730ce37902cb1eb27e3d0e78e7.png

    • Thanks 1
  7. 8 hours ago, Gwarsh said:

    Peter,

    If you have them, would you mind sharing the part numbers and possible URL's for the Rose joints and stainless steel connector rods?

     

    Thanks...

     

    I purchased 6 of the item below plus 1 metre of the stainless rod and a pack of the misalignment spacers along with shouldered 8mm bolts. You might find imperial sizes more convenient in the USA.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283414435966

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152796756209

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381655857006

    • Thanks 1
  8. Following a long period in storage, my Diplomat aired up with a heavy lean to the left, the cause of which turned out to be a broken levelling link end. As they are rubber and perish over time, I suppose that is only to be expected. I replaces all 3 of mine with Rose joints and stainless steel connector rods, which will last for ever.

  9. 9 hours ago, Jim McGarvie said:

    Can anyone point me to a good website to learn the basics? I have been through most of the AM Solar site (https://amsolar.com/diy-rv-solar-instructions/) and it is very helpful, but I still have questions.

    Some of you may be able to answer one vehicle-specific question I have about routing the cables from the panels to the controller. I plan to install the controller in the rearmost curbside compartment where the inverter is, and immediately behind the battery compartment. The refrigerator is in a slide so using that vent is not an option. I seem to remember reading accounts of running cables (both solar and rear view camera) down through the rear cap, and that sounds appealing to me, but now I can't find those articles.

    I have looked up from the engine compartment and from below the chassis, and it appears there is a bulkhead the entire width of the rear cap. It isn't clear to me where would be a good place to go through that bulkhead.

    Thanks for any help and advice.

    Jim

    I would take a look at Will Prowse on YouTube, he does a several videos on solar power for beginners upwards.

  10. 9 hours ago, woodylmiller said:

    Good to know.  Have not seen anything since the trapping.  Found a couple gaps to be filled with foam soon.  Hard to get to some of these places.

    09 Dynasty Regal IV

    I would stuff the gaps with pan scrubs or steel wire wool (as it’s called in the U.K.) then apply the foam, it will make it more difficult to gain entry again.

  11. On 7/31/2020 at 4:27 PM, markcalgary said:

    Once the chassis batteries are replaced , then the house batteries are next.   Any thoughts in that regard.  I will need to replace before the trip down.  The idea of a truck OEM is smart  for the chassis batteries....hadn’t thought of that.
     

    Thanks

    Mark

    I replaced my dead US2200 batteries with Canadian made ROLLS batteries which have a 5 year warranty over here in the U.K. 

    CAT batteries for the chassis.

  12. As you can see from the before and after photos, I had a similar problem with my 2000 Diplomat.  My resolution was to apply a thin sheet of aluminium to the rear, then fixed the damaged areas with fibreglass, finally finishing the job with 3M Carbon Film and stick on lettering. I then applied a small amount of  laquer to the letters to stop them being rubbed image.thumb.jpeg.14c29a5ce9c41fee80e94ef227a8c3fc.jpeg

    860B2BB7-A79A-4ED0-9CC8-4DDCF9BAC447.jpeg

    • Like 1
  13. 5 minutes ago, Dave Pumphrey said:

    The Pex lines are not mounted to the wall, They come up thru the floor next to the drain line, then up to the washer.

    This is how it was plumbed from the factory, I just added the valves to allow them to be turned off conveniently.

    The Pex lines have slack to allow movement.

    I see:)

    • Like 1
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