I think National General Insurance is the carrier/company and Good Sam has an insurance agency representing National General, and possibly other companies.They are not the Insurance company owner.

Dennis, have you tried the switch in the left front electrical bay?  

In you bedroom, have you tried to use the joystick?  I would toggle it to the left to get back to the main menu screen. The screen you are on now is asking for the 4 digit code, 1218, to set tank capacity, etc. Somehow, yours needs to get back to menu.
I can’t remember if the same screen is normally on front and BR.  

24 minutes ago, sailorp40 said:

24 minutes ago, sailorp40 said:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“I want to thank all those who replied to my message.

Actually I am Looking for the location of the ABS Test Button and indicator lamp, on my 2005 Dynasty”

George, I have an 05 Windsor and my button is in the left front electrical bay.  In my case, the module is mounted on the lower left wall and I found it has a dim red light when the ABS dash light is on.  I felt around the module and found the small button on the blind side.  I pressed and both the red light and inside notice went out, and stayed out.

I have noticed my switch does have a different feel, but your problem was likely an overloaded breaker.  The 3 ACs exceeded the 30 amp breaker.  You probably would have had no problem with only 2 running.  You might try to run 2 as a test.

On 3/5/2023 at 11:15 PM, Idoc57 said:

John, I appreciate the offer to do the "contest", however I think we would rather just take the opportunity to thank everyone who ordered covers and had a part in making this little business venture successful, while fulfilling a need for our fellow Monacoers.  I really don't know the exact number of covers that were sent out, but It was in the hundreds.  I would also like to express a special "Thank You" to the moderators of this great forum for allowing the grandsons the chance to learn some valuable lessons about running a business.  

Thank you all,

Carey

I received my covers and got them installed.  They were a perfect fit, and getting thank you notes from the grandkids made the whole process perfect.  

8 minutes ago, vipeboy2000 said:

Hey guys, looking into our new to us 08 dynasty generator space, in the back looks to be some sort of bracing that has come apart... It doesn't look factory, and doesn't look to be part of any suspension components... Anyone know what this is supposed to do?

Thanks!
 

I see a Monaco Watts kit, which has been added.  It is a good product to correct some problems with the Roadmaster chassis. But from this angle, it appears to be broken at the center connector on the chassis.

Go to monacowatts.com for information.

I recently had a similar fuel mileage decrease and it turned out to be a failed injector.  You could be having a problem injector with excess fuel causing smoke.

I first noticed smoke and decreased mileage, and while tracking mileage it began to fuel a power reduction.  At that point, I had one bad and one with decreased performance. I went ahead and replaced all while open, since I have near 150,000 miles.

8 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

My thinking is that Monaco added a temp sensor most likely for fan speed control.  If a wax controller was installed, then you wouldn't need a separate temp sensor

Frank, I think you are correct.  My limited knowledge comes from a time when Monaco brought parts to MI rallies and we purchased and they would install free. I had the fan controller replaced and remember the tech telling me something about a sensor and the controller. That might be what he referenced.  Thanks 

3 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

Your ISL only has one temperature sensor.  If your dash gauge is working, the temp sensor is working.  I looked at the ISL CM850 engine wiring diagram and the temp sensor has 2 wires and neither one is grounded at the sensor.  

Frank, you know much more about this than me, but I have that same engine in my 05 Windsor and it came from the factory with the sensor noted and 2 wires. I put a photo and comments in my earlier post.  It could be my only sensor, and if so it should be working to prevent problems. Or, it could be a second sensor.

I had questioned where or not it fed the temp to ECM for the Sauer Danfoss fan controller.  I would think only one sensor would be needed.

Bill R, I have a 05 Windsor and I think the 06 was likely a carryover from the previous year, since Monaco was eliminating the Windsor at that point.

So, I took a picture of my sensor, and as you can see it has 2 wires, not one. As WindsorBill posted, it goes into a big wiring bundle closer to the coach rear and then the bundle appears to go forward.  You can see the bundle on WindsorBills picture post.

I would add one more possibility to the idiot light idea.  Mine, and I think yours,  has/had a Sauer Danfoss fan Controller.  I’m told that the fan controller communicates with the ECM to regulate fan speed.  So, this could be a temp sensor for the ECM, for that controller.  If your coach has been changed from this controller to a wax valve setup, someone might have eliminated the sensor.  It might not affect operations, since I think there are multiple sensors. But, you might find wire ends on the back side of that cable bundle.

I replaced my original tank with one of the metal tanks referenced above about 6 months ago.  It was a good fit and well constructed, so I don’t think you’ll go wrong using them.

I have a ‘05 Windsor.

1 hour ago, Georgia Mike said:

So everyone should look at your insurance policy you have for your Motorhome and see if it covers towing of your Motorhome. That’s my next call.

Mike, I think you have determined that Coach-net will not pay, and a lot of that has to do with state laws requiring people to carry Liability and uninsured motorists coverage on vehicles.
There are likely two possibilities for payment here. First is the liability coverage on the at fault drivers car, which is responsible for towing cost and damage.
Second, if no coverage, your son’s car likely has uninsured motorists coverage, which pays for damage or injuries caused by an uninsured driver, and/or collision coverage. Either the UM or collision coverage should pay for the towing, unless you have rejected the UM.

Rich, I think your Windsor came with 295/80R22.5 and they are available in Toyo M144.

On 10/5/2022 at 10:35 AM, Gonzalo said:

IT IS A 2005  Monaco Windsor  40 feet long with air leveling air bags 

Gonzalo, I have the same MH and as pointed out, the little magnetic switch is under the step. There is a wired half and another half that matches up when the step is closed. Put the step out to see if part has come off,  but be careful because it can close and cause injury. When closed, the parts should be close together so the magnetic activates the switch and turn off the light.
If the parts are in near contact and the light still stays on, it might be a faulty switch.  Mine still gives be a light intermittently!

9 hours ago, Gonzalo said:

IT IS A 2005  Monaco Windsor  40 feet long with air leveling air bags 

Gonzalo, I have the same MH and as pointed out, the little magnetic switch is under the step. There is a wired half and another half that matches up when the step is closed. Put the step out to see if part has come off,  but be careful because it can close and cause injury. When closed, the parts should be close together so the magnetic activates the switch and turn off the light.
If the parts are in near contact and the light still stays on, it might be a faulty switch.  Mine still gives be a light intermittently!

If all the slides stop working at the same time, I would suspect it’s something to do with the ignition lockout.  Maybe a bad ground.

Also, it could be one of the slide switches.  On mine only one slide can be operated at a time, so if 2 slides are attempting at the same time, neither works. I probably would start by replacing the switches, since that’s the easiest to do. Testing might not show an intermittent problem.

I’ve never had the problem, so I guessing.

This switch is a heavy duty switch which I’ve used for several years. I think you’ll find it has a high continuous duty rating:

Blue Sea 9003E E-Series Master Battery Switch Single Circuit ON/OFF

Many of the Monaco’s have TriMark parts.  Likely you can give them a call:

1-800-431-8616

My duct setup is nothing like Rays picture.  My AC just dumps air into the ceiling area, with no metal, or any, connection.  Mine had a taped in partition inserted between the intake and output openings in the bottom of the AC. That gave very poor control of the air.

if you go back and look at the YouTube video link I posted earlier, you can see what I had to work with. I had to create something to control the cold air and direct it into the 2 ducts. That’s the reason I constructed a plenum as shown in the video.  I was get free mixing of intake and cold air as it was originally installed.

1 hour ago, vito.a said:

 

 

1 hour ago, vito.a said:

Picture of the outlet on the bottom of a Dometic A/C.  Then they should have a sheet metal adapter that screws to the A/C and connects to the duct system.  

That is correct, the metal piece is a Divider between the intake and output sides, but in my case there were leaks.  I’m just re-sealing both sides to get the most cool air, and in the process I took out the metal piece and built an airtight plenum on the output side which feeds the vents, as shown in the YouTube video. My flow increased from the vents.

36 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

My duct work ran front to back center of the coach with all the vents installed right down the middle.  The video is different then mine and may not be possible to do.

The changed I made made a pretty good difference including going form a 13.5K BTU unit to a 15K BTU high capacity unit.  When I was in TX last year I could keep the coach cool with one AC running when outside temps were in the high 80's!

I have 2 units and each has 2 ducts running each side.  Since I did the modification, I feel cold ac air coming through the rear ducts, which I’ve never felt before. Also, the rest sends a little air to the front. Thanks 

18 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Can you attach a picture?

On mine the duct work is basically centered in the 14X14" opening that the AC rests on.  On either side of the duct it is open as this the the air return. 

FWIW, I replaced both my AC's last year and decided to take the time to do a duct inspection with a camera which I purchased.  Since the AC's were out and I had good access to the inside of the duct it was pretty easy, just used a flexible pole, taped the camera to one and and slide it through the duct watching the camera view on my laptop.  I was expecting minor problems but found I had several issues. 

I found several holes, one fairly large, from mice.  When I was building our house, our lot was heavily wooded, I lived in the RV and had a bout of mice that I eventually got rid of but it was not easy, so I half way expected to find some problems.  At both ends of the duct work I had a couple small holes but I could not reach to fix but what I decided to do was cut a piece of styrofoam at a 45 degree angle and place them right at the edge of the last vent, I was then able to seal/tape them in place.  This actually would help airflow out of these vents since it would cut down on turbulence. 

I found one large mouse hole but luckily it was right above one of the lights and I was able to fix by removing the light and taping over the outside of the hole.

The biggest problem I had is where two duct mated together.  It looked like there was never any tape applied to the joint, there was ~1/2 gap all the way around (see picture),  This was too far from an existing vent to fix.  So I decided to just install a vent at that location which was in the middle of the coach between the kitchen and bath.  So I cut the hole and had good access to tape the gap from the inside and then installed the vent.  No one would suspect the vent didn't belong there and it actually provides additional air flow.

 

I went ahead and closed off all areas, except the 2 ducts.  I can’t get a photo now because I created a totally new, sealed distribution chamber using direction I saw on YouTube, link below.  I now have more air flow and it’s quieter.

These openings were on the opposing 2 sides from the 2 duct sides. They are square openings into the ceiling space between two pieces of insulation foam.  Mine are now taped over.

https://youtu.be/TusVLTNm7_s

I am in the process of re-sealing, metal duct taping, the AC intake and output sides to make them more efficient.  On the side where the air comes from the fan and into the Ducts, I see 2 square open spaces on mine which are not taped.  They appear to be open spaces between the foam roof panel and the opening is approximately 2x2”.  
Is there any reason to leave these 2 openings untapped, since I think that air is lost into the attic space? Both units have those 2 openings untapped.