David White

Is this the bed slide?  If so, there possibly are 2 rollers mounted against the exterior wall and they can be adjusted up and down.  You will likely have to remove the under bed covering to get access.  

18 hours ago, ready2retire59 said:

David White:  That looks exactly like what I have.  What is the pressure reading on your cap?  Thanks Tony

Hypoxia:  I was not aware that diesel engines have EGR.  Mine is an ISL.  Where would you look to see if it has EGR?  Thanks  Tony

As noted in my earlier post, I lowered mine to 7#.  As another poster shows, Cummins says 7# on the non-EGR ISX.  I think that’s also true on the ISL which is not a EGR engine in your year engine.

I had problems finding a cap that fits the tank opening and lock tabs, because most you’ll find in stores will not correctly lock down to seal.  I took mine to a napa store and they matched it up.  Of course you don’t have that option, so I’m not sure how to find it.  It’s not a Cummins item, but it is something that NAPA would have.

I think this,or similar,  is the tank Tony has:

I note the one you found shows 16# on the cap and since there is no other description I’m assuming that’s what you would get.  If that’s correct, it’s too high.  You’re asking for trouble with damage to your tank, since many have experienced split tanks due to excess pressure.  I’ve found 7# is adequate for my ISL400 (or lower one near that pressure), and the tank will not be over pressured.  

So sorry to hear that.  Bill was always willing to help me, and did on many occasions. I will miss, but remember, his friendship.  He and Peggy loved their RV friends.

He will be missed on this and other RV sites, even if he was not known personally.

FYI, today I got access to one of the switches and jumped across the switch.  I think it was the “in” side. It clicked but it did not move.  I then rocked the switch to open and the cover moved out and now operates normally.

I think the motor was in a bad rotation position and will likely do it again.  Now I need to determine how to access to motor

i have done a thorough lube of the screw rod and joints on the frame.  It now is moving very smooth, so hopefully I don’t have to replace a motor since it’s totally out of reach for me and would require cover assembly frame removal I think.

4 hours ago, Chuck D said:

Before you get too involved you might want to check the switches. Just because they click doesn't mean they work. Pop them out and run a jumper wire across the terminals and see if that may be your problem...it was on mine. I got a new switch from Northwest supply.

Chuck, do you have 2 switches?  Did the one bad one cause both not to activate the motor?

I’ve tried to search my problem, but failed to get the needed info, so forgive me if this has been covered.

Specifically, my Electric (not air) Step Well cover will not extend. The out/in rocker switch seems to work, since I can hear a “click” when the switch is activated in each direction.

I need to get access underneath to check the motor and was wondering if there is a way to get the front panel off?  About a year ago this happened and I bumped the step end panel hard - it started working and has not failed since.  This is on an ‘05 Windsor.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

I  think there are likely earlier discussions which cover your question.  In the search box put “Microwave” and  one of the results starts out with a Samsung question, but evolves to the Sharp which should fit yours.  Note the 2 long bolts, accessed through the filter openings, with attach to a wall plate.  You also likely have some side wood screws. That thing is heavy too, so the back plate of the Sharp is a much safer setup.

There is, I think, an overflow tube on all these coaches.  It might be blocked but some insect nest.

I had a similar problem and eventually replaced the pump and the problem was solved.

27 minutes ago, bandmmorris said:

Anyone have experience with buying fabric only and making the toppers to match what you have. My wife is a good seamstress and it does not seem to be a complicated item to make.

I’m sure do it yourself can be done, but the weakest point on the toppers is likely to be the stitching.  Primarily, the thread used.

The seams/threads deteriorate and problems start again.  Be sure to do your research on this.  I would echo the earlier recommendations of Stone Vos. 

Dave, Thank you and may you and your family have a Blessed 2021.

1 hour ago, CapnDean said:

Why you think worse?   Because the shock is stiffer?    I’m thinking that the old wore out shocks weren’t doing anything....

Dean, I think you made the right choice.  The eye/stem Bilstein you used is the same as mine and they provide good control without stiffness. 

Dave, maybe Chris T will see this post and advise what might be going on if the noise is coming from the awning mechanism.  If not, you might contact Talin RV to get information.

I looked at a similar microwave to replace my sharp and after reviewing the mounting requirements to an upper cabinet, I determined that the mounting would not work on mine.  These things are heavy and the rear wall bracket and side screws of the Sharp gave me more confidence that it would not come crashing onto the cabinet while bouncing down the highway.

You might have a solid overhead attachment point, but mine was weak and would not hold a 75 lb object.

Are you sure there is no inverter outlet behind the refrigerator?  They could have changed after 2005, but on mine, one of the outlets is inverter connected and the other is not.  Both are on the same outlet.  Disconnect from power and turn the inverter off-   One should be dead, but should be hot when the inverter is turned on.

I have had a regulator to fail in cold weather, I think due to some moisture that naturally accumulates and fails to vent out. Replaced it and all was good.  That would be your least expensive check at this point.

I think your owners manual will cover this, but if you are not prefilling the filters, the electric lift pump will fill them.  
With the ignition is switched on, the pump will run for a few seconds (you should hear this). You will need to turn the ignition off and on for several cycles, but the filters will eventually fill.
Don’t just try to start, but use the pump cycles to fill before attempting start.

I agree with Bob Nodine on keeping up with battery maintenance.  The AGM Batteries do cost more, but the water worries are gone and the battery compartment tray will stay much cleaner without the wet cells.

Also, the cost of the watering system, plus the cost of wet cells,  will likely be near the cost of AGMs.  And, hopefully they will have a longer life.

I think we need to look back at Chris’ post, with regard to all the elements/needs that go into one of the rallies.  It not just the campsite.  All the people are volunteers and they live and work in other locations, even if it might be in FL or a nearby state.  
I, for one, thank them for their time to this point and I understand the logistics problems this causes.  I know they want to have the Gathering, but I will understand whatever is decided.

Scottys idea of Zoom is a possibility, but realize that it too takes a real investment in time.  More power to him if that moves forward.  I’ve learned to adapt to Zoom meetings during the last 6 months and will continue.  BUT, face to face events is something I hope to see again in the future.

Great idea Bill!  

Dennis, Thanks for the reply. I need to do mine since it’s been a while but found getting from the back was a messy job and a bad place to get good working positions.  I felt it needed to be done rather than from just the outside.  

Actually the side radiator does not get heavy dirt if I make sure to always water hose clean it when I wash the coach.

Dennis, it appears you cleaned from the outside inward.  I’ve tried to clean from the rear/inside and flush water to the outside, which is the part that concerns me.  Did you get to the back side too?

Azlein, I used those numbers on mine (‘05 Windsor) but found the same problem as you.  Those numbers match up to the RR8R numbers, but we do have the RR8S chassis.  The “S” and “R”  refer to the Side and Rear radiators on the Roadmaster chassis.  But, we have the bolt and eye shocks as used on the “R”!

Knight and Ambassador are the same.  Windsor was equal to the Imperial in that year.