bandmmorris

I am selling these for my son. He works at a large rv repair facility and has accumulated these over time. 

What I have probable won't work for you.

2 hours ago, Corkman said:

If you have a 55-Aquajet-ARV I'll take one that looks and works like new.

Looks like what you have is 5.3gpm while the ones I have are 3 gpm so may not work for you.

One is new and the others have been tested and are good. Don't know age, but look very new.

Dometic RM 2551 5 cubic foot gas/110 volt refrigerator.  Brand new. $500. New price over $1000. Montgomery,  Texas 

Water pumps, like new.  $30 plus shipping. I have 2 - Flojet model 03526144, 2 - Shurflo model 4008-101-A65 and 1 (new) Artis model PDS1RV25. The Shurflo and Artis have screw on connections and the Flojet uses quick connects. I am pretty sure they will interchange with other brands. All are 3.0 gpm pumps.

Suspect the cause was arcing the battery when replacing the starting batteries.

Just found the problem. In addition to the 2 "hidden" 30 amp fuses in the rear run panel that were blown I found an Allison box in the front electrical panel. Took the screws out of it and removed the cover and found several relays and one 10 amp fuse. Fuse was blown. Replaced it and all is good now. Thanks for everyone for their suggestions.

Thanks for the offer, but just found the problem. In addition to the 2 "hidden" 30 amp fuses in the rear run panel I found and Allison box. Took the screws out of it and removed the cover and found several relays and one 10 amp fuse. Fuse was blown. Replaced it and all is good now. Thanks for everyone for their suggestions.

My rear bay is somewhat different. Yours does not seem to have the small enclosures with fuses that mine does. Mine also has battery disconnects (for chassis and coach) and some other items.

I have looked multiple times and cannot find any other wires to connect. I have checked the wiring multiple times and believe it to be correct. There are 3 wires on the chassis batteries, 1 large red cable to positive terminal, 1 large black cable to negative terminal and smaller red wire to positive terminal with inline fuse that goes to the battery combiner. Would appreciate if anyone with a Monaco Camelot around 2007 vintage check and let me know if theirs is wired the same. Since my initial post I have made a little progress. In the rear run electrical compartment I noticed 4 small enclosures that when you take them apart there are fuses inside. One had 2 - 30 amp fuses that were blown. I replaced them and now when I jumper the starter solenoid with the key on the engine will start and run fine, but the starter solenoid will not engage from the switch. I have transmission and check engine lights on and the transmission shift buttons still do not light up. Must have shorted a cable when installing the new batteries.

Made a little progress. In the rear run electrical compartment I noticed 4 small enclosures that when you take them apart there are fuses inside. One had 2 - 30 amp fuses that were blown. I replaced them and now when I jumper the starter solenoid with the key on the engine will start and run fine, but the starter solenoid will not engage from the switch. I have transmission and check engine lights on and the transmission shift buttons still do not light up. Must have shorted a cable when installing the new batteries.

9 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Similar problems have shown up on here many times over the yrs and usually a smaller wire was found to have been left off or was broken at the batteries.

Each coach may be a little different but all of the later model ( electronic engines ) have constant power to the engine and transmission computers for their memory.                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Since the problem presented it's self after the batteries were changed the most likely place is right there at the batteries or very close by.   Dig around the batteries with a strong light and hopefully you'll locate a wire.   There is an inline fuse somewhere along there too,  you might look for it as well.   The transmission shift panel not lighting up points in that same direction also.  That shift panel and trans ecm must have power for the engine to start.

Now if you worked in other areas too you might have introduced a problem there.  Go back to square one and check connections.

I have checked the wiring multiple times and believe it to be correct. There are 3 wires on the chassis batteries, 1 large red cable to positive terminal, 1 large black cable to negative terminal and smaller red wire to positive terminal with inline fuse that goes to the battery combiner. Would appreciate if anyone with a Monaco Camelot around 2007 vintage check and let me know if theirs is wired the same. The battery area is the only place I worked in.

13 hours ago, Trinidaddave said:

I think my first check would be getting my meter out and checking battery voltage.  You might as well start at the source.

Battery voltages are good, around 13.3 volts.

10 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Sounds like you may have left off one of the small wires at the + post for the chassis batteries.   Did you take a picture first?

I have checked the wiring multiple times and believe it to be correct. There are 3 wires on the chassis batteries, 1 large red cable to positive terminal, 1 large black cable to negative terminal and smaller red wire to positive terminal with inline fuse that goes to the battery combiner. Would appreciate if anyone with a Monaco Camelot around 2007 vintage check and let me know if theirs is wired the same.

Battery voltages are good and when I jumper the starter solenoid engine turns over good.

1 minute ago, Ray Davis said:

Sounds like you may have left off one of the small wires at the + post for the chassis batteries.   Did you take a picture first?

Wiring matches my wiring diagram. Only cables are main positive and negative cables, charging wire to the chassis and coach battery banks and small ground wire from the charge controller. The starter solenoid has voltage on one of the main terminals which has to be coming from the battery. When I jumper the starting solenoid the engine turns over as the other terminal then has voltage. Just not getting voltage to the small wire on the solenoid when I turn the key to start.

Thanks for your comments. All connections are good. Sketched all connections before changing and put back same way. I have the complete wiring diagram for my coach and all wiring matches the diagrams.

I changed the batteries in my 2007 Monaco Camelot 42PDQ and now the starter will not engage. Here is what I have found so far. If I jumper the small wire on the starter solenoid the engine will turn over, but not start. When the start position is engaged there is no voltage at this terminal. Most of the dash lights come on, but not the "Wait to Start" or the pushbuttons for the Allison transmission shift selections. The fuel gauge does not operate either. Have checked all the fuses I can find and all appear good. Ignition relays "click" when key is turned on. I don't think it is an ignition switch problem. Kind of ran out of everything I can think of to try so any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

I changed the batteries in my 2007 Monaco Camelot 42PDQ and now the starter will not engage. Here is what I have found so far. If I jumper the small wire on the starter solenoid the engine will turn over, but not start. When the start position is engaged there is no voltage at this terminal. Most of the dash lights come on, but not the "Wait to Start" or the pushbuttons for the Allison transmission shift selections. The fuel gauge does not operate either. Have checked all the fuses I can find and all appear good. Ignition relays "click" when key is turned on. I don't think it is an ignition switch problem. Kind of ran out of everything I can think of to try so any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

I had a similar problem a few years ago and it turned out to be a bad ground connection to the dash. If the voltage is low I would try running a hot wire directly to the dash feed and see if the gauges work. Seems there could be ways to correct low voltage short of replacing the steering colum. Also, you likely could find a used switch if needed. 

Thanks for the advice. Went to Ace and got springs that will work and am going to make stainless replacement pins. Hopefully they will last longer and cause less problems.

1 hour ago, Steven P said:

 

I was able to take a good spring off one topper and go to Ace Hardware and find similar ones.  I learned about these springs after losing my topper cover on the highway due to rusted springs.  I still haven't replaced it bc a new one is over $800.  I'm trying to find one off a salvage. 

 

If Carefree had used stainless steel springs and pins instead of carbon steel they would have lasted.

15 hours ago, bandmmorris said:

Thanks for all the good comments. I am removing and reinstalling myself. It only takes me around 15 minutes to remove the old topper fabric. I am pretty sure I can redo the passenger side toppers because they are wrapped around the tube almost 4 times. That gives me plenty of length to cut off 8-10 inches of deteriorated material on the top and have plenty left to wrap around the tube. The polyrod came out fine and appears to be in good shape. We have a heavy duty sewing machine and marine thread. The current canvas toppers should not be a problem to sew. We have done some resewing on a couple of them a few years back. I also re-treat the toppers at least annually with waterproofing. I am a bit surprised on the comment regarding water getting on the slide-out as it was my understanding that the primary purpose of the topper was to keep trash off the slideout as the top of the slideout will always get somewhat wet when it rains.

I have one other question I hope someone can answer. My toppers are Carefree Summit. The cover assembly is held in place by 2 spring loaded pins on each end. Not surprisingly most of the springs and pins have deteriorated and don't work. I have not been able to find replacement springs as this design is now obsolete. The solution appears to be the purchase of new end caps which allow the use of screws instead of the spring loaded pins to hold the cover on. My question is if 1) anyone knows where the springs or spring loaded pins can be purchased or 2) can my existing end caps be modified to use screws instead of the pins. Obviously I am trying to avoid purchasing a few hundred dollars worth of end caps.

3 hours ago, throgmartin said:

I didn't get into the subject of re-sticthing/re-furbishing awning/slide topper fabric. I am all for re-stitching and saving money but with the caveat that the material is worth the trouble.

These are the things one needs to check first to determine if the slide topper fabric is really worth restitching.

1.) Does the topper provide good end coverage or has it shrinked to the point that it barely covers the edge ? Re-stitching a topper that barely covers the edges of your slide is a complete waste of time. It will promote water leaks around your slide and floor rot inside your coach.

2.) How old is the fabric ? Anything over 3 years old is probably not worth it unless the fabric has had little exposure to the environment.

3.) Is it still waterproof ? Funny as that may sound many of the fabrics I have seen after 3 or 4 years no longer is water proof. It will actually percolate water through the fabric and on top of your slide.

4.) Do you have a source for new polyrod ? Chances are the old spline will break pulling it out of the fabric during the restitching.

5.) Do you have a heavy duty sewing machine able to stitch PTFE or V-92 polyester thread ?

6.) Are you doing the removal and install yourself ? If not and you are paying to have it done then you are wasting money using an old re-stitched topper fabric.

If you answered yes to these questions then by all means remove the topper, restitch it and then reverse it when you re-install it.

Patio Awnings are a different animal. Some assemblies will work fine with fabrics that have been re-stitched ( Eclipse, etc. ). Other assemblies will never work right for a long period of time with re-stitched fabric. If you have an apex or mirage assembly your asking for trouble. If the re-stitched fabric is not perfect you will end up with the assembly not closing right. Seen these numerous times. The tolerances on fabric for these assemblies has to be exact. Even a 1/4 inch out of square will cause one end of the assembly to stick out a little and never fully close. In regards to window and door awnings they have the ability to accept a re-stitched fabric without any issues.

I am all for re-stitching fabrics that are truly worth re-stitching. But I have seen so many who wanted to save money and end up with failures. One has to really be honest with themselves and determine if it is all worth the hassle and worth having to repeat the process again in a couple short years when they finally fail for good.

Thanks for all the good comments. I am removing and reinstalling myself. It only takes me around 15 minutes to remove the old topper fabric. I am pretty sure I can redo the rear toppers (I have 4) because they are wrapped around the tube almost 4 times. That gives me plenty of length to cut off 8-10 inches of deteriorated material on the top and have plenty left to wrap around the tube. The polyrod came out fine and appears to be in good shape. We have a heavy duty sewing machine and marine thread. The current canvas toppers should not be a problem to sew. We have done some resewing on a couple of them a few years back.

I have talked to StoneVOS and they are great. If I decide to buy it will be from them. First I am going to see if I can refurbish and reuse any of mine. I think I can remove and recondition most, if not all, of mine. 

On 12/29/2020 at 4:10 PM, KevinH said:

Not sure if this will apply in your situation but two years ago I was going to replace my slide covers. I wasn’t for sure if I could do the job so I started with one and pulled the material off. The material that was rolled up on the roller looked brand new and there was enough of it to cover the slide so I reversed it that was two years ago And it still looks good today. Like I said not sure if this helps.

Thanks for the info. I looked closer at mine and they are all wrapped around the roller 2-4 times so plenty of length to remove and reverse. Thanks for the advice. I am going to try to reverse mine and likely will not have to buy covers, at least not for a few more years.

Great site and wonderful people. I want to thank everyone for the outstanding advice. I now know outstanding suppliers, but even better, have ideas on how to reverse and reuse my existing covers which, if it works (and I think it will), will save me a lot of money.