rustykramermetalfab
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Posts posted by rustykramermetalfab
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11 minutes ago, CTerry said:
Sounds like a u-joint in the steering column. Grab the shaft and see if you can see any movement in the joints. Should be none visible.
I will check. thanks.
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1 minute ago, dl_racing427 said:
I'd definitely raise the front axle and check all joints for any play.
Be certain to use properly rated jack stands, they could save your life. 👍Yes, looking into a couple 20 K bottle jacks and stands. Thanks! I always run my coach up on boards and ramps for normal chassis work. but never raised the axel up.
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I Own a 2006 Dynasty 38' Tag. 90K miles. I have driven the coach 4,500 miles myself and it drives pretty well, I have adjusted the TRW. I get just a slight clunky/bump feedback feel in the steering wheel slow speed turning, parking lots, city intersection etc. I never feel any feedback like this at highway speed, but I only really feel it when I am turning the steering wheel a full revolution or more?
I would assume I really need to get the front wheels off the shop floor to feel any loose tie rod etc? If there is any input on what to check or specifics I would appreciate it.
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Just my experience. I installed Koni's on the front of my previous coach. 2000 36' Dynasty. I thought the ride was a bit harsh. On my 2006 I am going to try the Source Bilsteins when I get to that project.
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Thanks for the info, everyone. I got it done.
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Yea as far as I know only one....
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No I removed the Stat to do the flush based on info I read on IRV2.
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Can anyone advise how many flushes of their cooling system they are doing to obtain clear or near clear water? I have been running the coach with the dash heat on. I have flushed 6 times, coolant color is still in the water after draining. Still looks like a heavy concentrate to me. Any thoughts?
400 ISL
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15 hours ago, Georgia Mike said:
I changed all the main radiator hose’s about year or so ago and used this vacuum system to fill it back up. It worked fantastic and it eliminates air pockets in the cooling system. I had a big 5 gallon bucket and kept filling it as it was sucking the coolant back in. This way your sure coolant gets to all those hard to get areas of the system. I think I put in about 12 gallons you can’t get it all out.
I have a similar system to Mikes vacuum deal, called Air lift. I think it was $140.00ish. I did the first water fill and flush and it worked awesome. I will also say that the C-Low Fab aluminum expansion tank is worth changing out to. My hoses were all junk. My small hoses all crack when bent so don't overlook those.
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20 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:
In addition, when you do not have the Aquahot PreHeat turned on (which is designed for the Aquahot boiler to heat the main engine coolant via a heat exchanger) there is coolant flowing when the main engine is running, being pumped my the main engine water pump. So, when the engine is running, coolant is being circulated through the PreHeat heat exchanger. You don't want to have the main engine running and the PreHeat on at the same time. The problem is that the main engine water pump can somehow damage the PreHeat circulation pump if it is on.
-Rick N.
Oh wow thank you Rick! not going to do that!
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Just now, Dr4Film said:
Nope, the AH engine pre-heat loop has its own pump to circulate the engine coolant through the loop inside the AH boiler fluid.
OK thanks for the information, Doc so it will circulate with the switch but just not be warm unless the AH is running.
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I am ready to fill my system with water for the first flush after changing all hoses in the engine bay. I have the dash heat on and read to turn on the AH engine pre heat if I have it. Well I have it, so my question is does the AH need to be running on diesel for the pre heat to circulate. I would think it would need to be up to temp before it would circulate but just checking since I do not have any experience with AH engine pre heat. 2006 Dynasty ISL 400. Aqua Hot model AHE-100 04S
I will be installing new thermostat.
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I think I would start by having her read these responses.
I have a friend with a nice 2014 American Revolution. I have driven it, stayed in it overnight a few times, and I like it, but I don't think I would trade it for my 06 Dynasty.
If your paint is in good shape and you like the colors a serious interior remodel might be worth looking into?
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I am getting ready to change my coolant out to Peak final charge. Not sure exactly the type Global or not? I have been searching but not really sure based on what I see on the web.
2006 Cummins ISL 400.
Plan to flush with Distilled water in between. I am going to change out all hoses.
thanks
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On 6/18/2023 at 11:21 AM, Paul A. said:
Vin #
Paul.
It did for my 06 Dynasty. Not sure what to advise..
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2 hours ago, dl_racing427 said:
Their web catalog doesn't list Monaco as a manufacturer. What did you use?
DL Open the Heavy Duty tab and you will see all kinds of coach mfgs.
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Yea I found the Dayco info. Just no way to verify the size, just gotta have faith!
thanks
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I am looking to change coolant and want to replace all the hoses I can. Looking and found some dayco part numbers supposedly for the 2006 Dynasty daycoaftermarket.com but no diameters of the hose listed. If there is a listing of the proper part numbers on Monacoer's I have not located it.
Can anyone advise ID of the hoses? It would appear measuring that the OD is somewhere around 2.750 I have not pulled any just not ready to do that yet. I would like to have everything ready once I start this project I just don't want to have a batch of hoses that are all 1/4" wrong.
Thanks for any help guys.
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1 hour ago, TLMonaco said:
So what is the procedure to purge the air from the cooling system?
Thanks
Tom
If you watch the video the tech uses a system called Airlift. Slick deal. If you do your own coolant change out its paid for. I just ordered one from Ebay for $110.00
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3 hours ago, Bill R said:
I found this post very helpful.
Thanks but I think those are rear radiator coaches. Dynasty is a Side Radiator.
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I am just looking for suggestions on purchase. I know Cummins would have a stat, but anyone bought hoses from a good online source or just go to my local auto parts with some dimensions? Not really familiar with the silicone hoses. Not sure if they are worth it on a coach? I am just planning a coolant change after the season and I want to have everything ready as much as possible. I for sure want to replace the large hoses while I have it drained.
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Has anyone found an online/youtube video of the detail of how to properly flush a coach coolant system in a coach? I have read a lot but just not sure I fully understand how it is being done. I am to dumb to understand what I read, I need to see it.
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I am not going to argue about Res VS JC upgrade. I had JC install the new 12V upgrade while on a trip this spring. It works really well cools down quickly and stays cold. There seem to be happy campers with both residential and conversions done by JC.
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2 minutes ago, Ivan K said:
Yours being the same year as ours and me having the same issue when we bought the coach, you probably have a failed 65psi pressure switch hanging off the park brake plunger line, just under it. Ours was Merritor Wabco 89404 16062. But it could be any equivalent with the same 1/8 -27 thread and pressure rating, normally closed.
Ivan Thanks I will check it when I can, I guess it is no big deal. Black tape for now!
2006 Dynasty - Side Radiator hose
in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics
Posted
I lost my turbo coolant hose on a trip as happycarz pointed out on his photo, to cracking. 2006 coach around 85K miles. All of mine large hoses looked like his and all of the smaller hoses would crack and split if bent. Be proactive and change them all. Flush the system and put in some OAT so you don't have to worry about SCA level. Not much fun climbing around the engine compartment on a 90 degree day in a parking lot. I was able to replace that hose once I found where the leak was. I feel a lot better knowing I have that project behind me.