rustykramermetalfab

I was leaving a campground early this morning and my Park brake indicator light would not go out.  I verified with a slightly unlevel site that the coach would roll in neutral when I let off of the brake pedal.  Indicator flashes when driving. Coach seams normal in every way.  I am not sure where the sensor is I just got parked for the night but wanted to message the group about it.  2006 Dynasty.  Thanks!

1 hour ago, Newcsn said:

I/m fairly certain our 2006 Dynasty has one of these. However, I don't believe ours is working & it appears the seal is torn. Are these seals available & where can one find troubleshooting guidance for the system? Thanks

I had no idea if my seal was working or not. You can pull the hose that goes to the seal off of the barbed fitting on the electric switching valve. 

Just use a regulated air supply  below 5PSI to see if the seal is leaking. (If you are an old school mechanic like me your mouth will work). If it has a big rip you are probably done but some owners have repaired them with a tire tube repair kit I believe I have read in the past..  It will depend on the location on the hole and how bad it is. 

I have some samples from Shade pro and another company. Sorry cant remember the name of the "other one" but the material was like a soft scotch brite pad. I didn't really like it.  

The shade pro was much nicer top material and has a thick rubber backing.  It did take a LONG time to get the sample from shade pro.  I have not pulled the trigger on an order but I was going to go with the shade pro. guess I better order soon.  

Well Cummins is actually a customer of mine I have some contacts that I am going to see if they can shed light on this. If Monaco figured it out somehow they will never know, but I will make a few phone calls next week to see if I can get any help from them. 

3 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Thanks!

Yeah, that looks like a PITA!

Luckily for me, Cummins changed their design and eliminated engine mounted fuel filters before they built mine.

So how did that work.... I wonder if they came up with a relocation kit? 

Here is the photo. I am sure there are owners who have no idea this filter exists and probably a very neglected service item.

40 minutes ago, Georgia Mike said:

I asked this question when I first got my Dynasty a year ago after I changed that filter on the engine. It is in a terrible location. Laying on your back you can only reach it with one arm no room for your second hand and just barely enough room to get a strap on it to loosen it. When you spin it off it is not a straight shot down you have to turn it sideways to manipulate it out so fuel spills all over you and you can’t prefill the new one for the same reason. I am getting ready to change it again so I bought a disposable bio hazard suit and long rubber gloves to try and stay dry this time. Also the little rubber o ring that goes on first was a loose fit and would drop off before I could get the filter up there a real PIA with one hand. So I am more than interested in finding a way to relocate it to the back or anywhere else for that matter.

Yep exactly.  Why in the heck did Cummins do this. I put just a touch of light grease on the o-ring to hopefully hold it in place while blindly trying to find the threaded fitting.  

I have been searching for a relocation kit for the secondary fuel filter that is mounted direct on the engine.    My ISC has them both in the rear hatch. The secondary would be a bugger to change out on the road.  I suppose annual change is fine and I do all my own fluids but it sure is a pain.  Just wondering if there is a kit to move it to a better spot.  I have been searching but not finding a solution yet.  2006 Dynasty ISL 400.

On 1/18/2023 at 8:53 AM, Scotty Hutto said:

Just chiming in late… I use the M&G system (with break-away air reservoir) and it works well. Accidentally tested the break-away system a couple of months back and it works well too! 🤣 The other option I considered was the Roadmaster Brakemaster. You can’t go wrong with either.  In my case I have one (brand new) toad that I planned to keep a very long time, and liked the permanent installation of the M&G. If I had envisioned a new toad, or multiple toads, that would have pushed me towards the Brakemaster. YMMV.

Also have the Roadmaster NightHawk.  Bought it because a) it looked cool, and b) I was at the FMCA rally in 2018 and Roadmaster gave me a healthy discount for trading in my old (2006) Roadmaster tow bar. What I’ve found is that the lighted bar is very useful when towing at night. I can see the front of my toad in my rear camera, and it’s saved my shins countless times 🤪

Thanks Scotty, I will check into the roadmaster brake also seems like it is a good set up. I am on hold just a bit looking at Jeep Grand Cherokee and might get the set up to tow that instead of the Yukon.  I will report back with what I go with.  Thanks to all. 

Thanks for the info so far. I should have given more details and stated I plan to flat tow a 2015 GMC Yukon. The Yukon has the disconnect on the dash knob that controls 2WD 4WD H L etc.   The Yukon has nothing installed so I will need to install a base plate and buy a tow bar. The Blue ox is pretty old and no parts are available to freshen it up. I Like the new nighthawk Road-master as far as a tow bar goes.    E trailer recommended the Blue ox base plate for the Yukon.  

My Trailer is just an electric brake set up and I used a Teconsha P3 controller on my 2000 Dynasty that I will install in the 2006 for the trailer.  

I have looked only at the Air Force system so I will check out M&G also. 

Thank you for the input if you have any further suggestions based on my added details please post.

I have a 2006 Dynasty. Previous owner passed but flat towed something. Coach had old Blue ox tow bar included.  I am just not sure what brake system he installed on the towed vehicle. The blue air line shown is plumbed from what must be an air distribution/regulator of some type just in front of the drive axel. (It is a little confusing to see the connection since he looped excess blue air hose.)  I tested the system with an air pressure gauge connected to the air outlet on the rear of the coach and when I press the brake pedal it builds air pressure to the gauge. 
I have been searching the records I have, but unable to find any evidence of what brand or type of braking system was on the towed vehicle.  I called Air Force one and they advise their braking system must be plumbed with the provided tank they use. I do not see a tank anywhere, just the air line attached as shown. Can anyone advise what type or brand of braking system might have been used based on the air line set up shown?  Thanks for any help. 

I have seen this on BR slides. I have also seen the Trim cover pieces that they are talking about installed and they look fine if painted to match.  Drill the hole for sure protect it from water getting in..

Thanks for the info Mike, Sorry I did not mean to hack your thread off from selling your ARP unit.....

On 10/30/2022 at 2:31 PM, Georgia Mike said:

I purchased this around January when I changed my cooling unit on my Norcold. The Amish cooling unit they sent me was defective so I ended up going with the 12 volt compressor unit so I don’t need the Fridge Defend anymore. It’s in perfect working order. I paid $225 for this package with fan control and extra fan. I am asking $130 and I will pay to ship it. 
 

Mike do you have the 12 Volt unit from JC?  how does that work for you? Please advise I have a 1200 that works perfect but I want to change it out also. I have had a 110 conversion on a previous coach and have read everything possible related to changing out for house fridge ect. I would just like to get rid of the fire hazzard. 

I have a 2006 Dynasty with the same set up as Franks photo with the  A-G modules.  The coach is new to me just owned for a few months.  Can someone talk to me a about how to do a "Backup" on the system?   

Also I have one button cover that seems loose and a couple of "spongy" feeling buttons on that cover.  I thought about trying to remove and investigate but now I am nervous to do that I don't want to cause a problem that I do not currently have. 

Thanks for any help on this.

Roadtripper  No it threads on and pushes a valve open. you can just back it off and it will slow the flow down or back it off to completely stop. You dont need to take it completely off to stop the flow. You will have residual oil in the tube of course.  I just always use a large piece of cardboard and or some pig mat. You will drip some but this is the best way I have ever found. The Fumoto type is ok but I have used them and some will drip.  The valve that is put into the pan has an oring to seal when it does not have the hose attached and the cap that covers it has two orings.  You will not have drips when clapped off. 

On 9/17/2022 at 6:45 AM, DennisZ said:

For those that are worrying about a valve that could get damaged, I use one of these, no external valve handle to flip open and very low profile protruding out of the pan.

https://www.femco.com/products/

I use the Femco and it works well and is a very high quality product. I had one on  my first coach and just installed on my 06.   I personally know a farmer who lost a diesel engine on a combine do to a lever  type being damaged and leaking out his engine oil. The Femco plug is very low profile as Dennis stated. 

I bought wackos for my old coach. They might technically be quieter but I was not impressed. 

I have a nice ceiling panel in the new coach up front and that helps a lot. The bedroom is still noisy. I am going to try to make something myself for the rear AC. I thought the wackos were going to be a little more high tech than what they are.  Some owners seem to love them, did not do much for me. Might depend on the ducting of the coach. 

• It was really my issue on this part. I think I might have a plan for this but I will need to Machine my own custom fittings and or modify fittings. The key will be if I can find a plastic tube that is flexible enough to manipulate it through the hole and not destroy it... The hard decision is If I cut my existing tube I am committed to doing something. Might have to wait until next winter at this point.  

40 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

You my try buying the right size 90 fitting to connect to the hose and fits into the tank, getting a short piece of copper tubing, the bendable kind, and taking it some where and having copper tubing brazed into the fitting,   Then you can insert the copper into the tank and slowly bend it straight down as you lower into the tank. 

The issue with this is I will never know how deep I am if the new tube is not straight when done...

Well I received the fitting and tube but the external threads that need to go into the tank on the new part are 3/8 Pipe. Needed 1/4 pipe. The internal threads on the 90 degree top are 1/4 pipe.  So sending that back and still searching for a workable solution.

I will for sure. 

Ken, This was one of my many thoughts but the threaded hole in the tank is 1/4 pipe, so right at 1/2" ID.  No slip over hose or hose clamps will go back through that 1/2" hole. I have found a fitting with a rigid, plastic/nylon line attached that may work if I can bend the line enough to feed the tube through the threaded hole. 

This item is a boat tank fuel pickup replacement part and line is plenty long to trim, I have it on order so I will find out if I think it is possible. If I cut or pull out the original I will be committed so I am going to need to be pretty confident I can get it through. It is a pretty tight bend so I am not sure at this point. 

Bill, My pickup is on the far passenger side of the coach and I don't think there are baffles of any kind in the tank so your PO is correct. 1/2 tank is just not enough for me. I start to get nervous because you just don't want a hard shut down of the Gen and AC units.  I am looking for fuel at that 1/2 tank point. If it was 80 gallons until it was out I would never have had it starve for fuel,  I have never put more than 60 in at a fill. I only use my coach in hot weather so in effect I have a 50 gallon tank to not run my Gen out of fuel. 

Unable to find a prior thread on this topic so I will ask. My generator will shut down after using 60 gallons. I have 100 or 118 gallons according to literature.  My generator tube is metal and appears to be brazed to the 90 degree 1/8th pipe fitting.  I am not able to remove this tube(without cutting or bending it) unless I slide the fuel tank out. Not interested in that.  Has anyone here with the same set up extended the tube in some way?  I have been thinking about this for a while after knowing what I have. I am unable to find a fitting that I need without brazing a couple to each other to use a semi ridged nylon/plastic pick up tube.  I sure would like another 10 gallons so I reduce the risk of a hard shut down of the gen and AC units If I get a gulp of air with 1/2 tank. I usually don't run much past 1/2 tank but if I need to stop for the night and I am at a 1/2 tank I really risk loosing fuel to my gen at approx 1/2 tank.

On 2/22/2022 at 10:43 AM, 96 EVO said:

Is it cold where you are?

Sometimes those press fit connections can leak a bit when it gets real cold, and seal back up as the temperature climbs!

It is cold outside but the coach is in a heated shop. Got the big leaks fixed still have others to search out.  Big Gas bubbles spray works well for checking leaks. Seems to cling better and last longer than soapy water mix I have tried.