thompson_skip

We are on camp ground water, I have cleaned the shower head, the pressure goes down when using the sinks and it does the same thing hot or cold water. I have whole house filters which are new, but that may be the problem. I’m going to take them off and see if that makes any difference. I will also shut off the CG water and just use the pump and see what happens.  Somewhere I read that it could be a check valve, but I don’t see how that could be possible unless the valve was spring loaded which I have never heard of a spring loaded check valve. 

Something is going on with my water pressure.  I start a shower with normal pressure,  but while I shower the water pressure goes down until it is just a trickle. Sure is a bummer to run out of water while I try and rinse off. Any suggestions?

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I glued the broken piece with JB Weld clear as suggested by Tom. Then I used plastic zip ties with 3M double sided tape to give some additional support. We are headed to Hart Rancg Rv resort near Rapid City Sd so the repair will get its first test. Hope it stays up. 😁😁

The plastic part that holds up the motorized shade broke on the way home from a great two weeks of campground hosting in western Nebraska. Any idea where to get new part?  Monaco Dynasty 2003. 

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. There is a shop in Cheyenne,Wy called Grabers Diesel Repair that took off the tailpipe and the piece off the turbo and had them welded back  together so it is back as it came from the factory, I think. They also put on a new clamp to hold the pipe in place so it shouldn’t vibrate when hitting pot holes on our fine roads. 

Thanks that is above my skill set but maybe I can find a muffler shop that could do it. 

Thanks Tim the part appears to be an insert of some sort. Like an adapter from turbo to tailpipe. I’m wondering if there is a part that Cummins has. As for as the muffler I replaced my muffler in 2015 at Monaco International rally in manitowoc Wi. A vendor by the name of Major installed it for me. Thank for reply. 

I have been getting soot around the access panels in floor above the engine. I have discovered why, the short pipe from the turbocharger to the tailpipe has broken (see picture).  I am wondering where to get new pipe and idea on how to fix. Thanks 

I purchased this product for our trip to 2017 trip to Alaska. It worked very well, but I  had an issue with the upright developed a small crack, but in typical Roadmaster fashion they sent me a new carrier in Anchorage that had been modified so that problem would never happen again. I was glad I had the spare but we are never headed to Alaska again and I would give the unit along with the rim and a mounted tire to anyone passing through Cheyenne, Wy.

I just checked my Amazon order and I ordered 16”. I installed them just like they came off with the small side mounted to the tray. I couldn’t use the locking lever so I put bolts with wing nuts on each corner to lock tray in place. Good  luck with your repair. 

Well thank the Lord I replaced the two battery cutoff solenoids, there are both controlled by the single cutoff switch and I now have 12v so back to normal. One other question, I have always just left the battery it off switch on, is that wise or should I shut it off when we are not using the coach. AGAIN THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR ASSISTANCE,  I COULDN'T HAVE FIGURED IT OUT WITHOUT YOUR HELP!!!

On 7/20/2022 at 11:03 AM, Tom Cherry said:

First, hope you have the above or even BETTER....the Manual.  Look at pages 124, 125 and 126 of the "FILES".  That will be pages 131, 132 and 133 of the PDF as the index at the front adds pages.

You have, and the prints are slightly hard to read, even blown up, one or two leads from the "Domestic Solenoids.  The first one Page 124 (PDF 131) shows the master layout of all the 12 VDC...a BIG SUCKER.  Then the next page, 125 (PDF 132) has the HVAC wiring and the main distribution panel. If you are NOT getting power there, then the issue has to be "faulty" Domestic Solenoid....there are TWO.  Did you replace BOTH or ON...?  This page has the HVAC wiring and we "know" that Monaco ran the Thermostat feed from the main 12 VDC distribution panel...and the print shows that...

Look at Page 125 (PDF 133). Two Solenoids, I assume are there. If you look on the INCOMING side of the Solenoids, both go to the Battery Buss (my term).  You need to find where all the high current fuses are located. I can NOT tell from the drawing if there are high current (ANL Type) which have a visible "element" or if you have, like the newer Dynasties do, Circuit Breakers (I believe resettable). 

My advice....Check BOTH Solenoids to see if you have 12 VDC on one side....Personally, I don't see the need for them as they are the idiotic Salesman's Switches. They can be bypassed for a total of $15 from NAPA...  781144 - 2 needed...one for each solenoid. 

You have to find the incoming power for them....and it looks like you have an upstream issue....or if you ain't got power on the incoming of the Domestic Solenoids...you ain't gonna have it down stream.

That is as much as I can do from the prints....and my limited knowledge of the early Dynasty configurations.

Good LucK 

Tom I found the two solenoids in the rear distribution box.  Only one of the clicked when my wife turned the salesman switch off and on.  They both were quite hot to the touch.  The one that clicked doesn't have any voltage across the terminals, the other one has 12 v across the terminals.  I'm thinking of getting the napa 781144 battery cables and bypass the solenoids.  I assume I attached them to the two main terminals, is that correct?  Thanks so much for you help!

1 hour ago, wamcneil said:

Look at page 131 of the wiring diagrams 'Low Voltage - High Current'. 12v positive goes from the battery, through the battery switch and then back to the high current box on the right in the engine compartment. The first connection is to the large battery isolator. If you've got 12v on the house terminal of the battery isolator you should be able to verify 12v all the way through that box. You should have two large solenoids on the lower right side of the box that are for house loads (via salesman switch), and should be able to verify 12v on the output of those two solenoids.

Unless the battery negative terminal is disconnected from the chassis...

I'm still thinking you might have missed the ground wire from the inverter to the chassis ground when you installed the inverter. If that ground wire was missed, then ground is disconnected for all your house loads. The inverter would still work, but that ground wire is the only path for house loads to get to the battery negative terminal. Having the house ground disconnected would look a whole like not having 12v to the house. And if that ground is disconnected you won't have 12v between the house battery positive terminal and the chassis.

I just removed the Red, black, and green cable’s coming to the inverter and reinstalled them to the rebuild inverter so did think the ground cable could be disconnected. 

I have found the domestic solenoids in the engine compartment on the right side of the engine as you look into the compartment. I will get someone to help me tomorrow and see if I can check the solenoids.  I am not sure where to find the distribution panel?  When I was working on cleaning the battery cables I attempted to remove the red wires the of the part pictured, whatever it is, came apart. It is corroded and fell apart. Any idea what it is what it does?  It has a spring loaded plate in the bottom that the screws must have touched.  I’m wondering if I can just attach the wires together and eliminate the destroyed plastic part.  If not any idea where to go a replacement part. Nice Cheyenne, Wy sunset 😎😎. Thanks so much for your help!!!

Ivan there are two solenoids in the compartment outside under the driver's window. One clicks when I turn the ignition and it think sends 12 v current to the dash lights, dash fan etc. not sure what the other one does?  I have replaced both of them so don’t think that can be causing the lack of 12 v. I’m wondering if anyone has an idea of a shop near Cheyenne, Wy that might be able to help me?  Thanks so much. 

Thanks Tom I will have a project as soon as I figure out why I don’t have any 12v in the coach. 😤😤

Thanks all for your suggestions. It do have the original wiring manual. I’m going to clean the bolts in the battery box where battery cable connect to the cables that go into coach and see if that makes any difference. 

Tom, where do you get the items you mentioned?  I have thought I’m over filling but never knew of a way to check. I did paint my box with Rustoleum, picture doesn’t look like it as it has dust on it😀. Thanks 

The inverter puzzle continues 😤😤. I ordered and installed a rebuilt Trace/Xentrex from Inverter Service Center in White House, TN.  I now have 120 which I didn’t have before, the microwave works, all the wall outlets work, etc, but none of the 12 volt lights work,  none of the thermostats work.  It reminds me of what happens when the salesman switch is off.  I took out the salesman switch and I have 12 volts, actually the meter reads 14.1v at the switch.  I decided to replace the salesman switch solenoid hoping it was bad, but no luck.  I checked the 12v fuze holder that is in the rear bedroom closet and no voltage coming to the fuses. There is 14.1 volts coming out of batteries into the inverter but I sure wish I knew why no coach lights are working.  Thanks in advance for your assistance 😁. Anyone have a working Trace RV2012 you want to sell?  Our Coach is 2003 Dyansty with no EMS. 

Thanks to all that replied with your suggestions. I have rebuilt my slide tray using a pair of VEVOR 500lb drawer slides. Amazon about $35.00. I think the rebuild should last the life of our great 2003 Dyansty we purchased new in 2003😁😁. Here is the link for the slides.  I used stainless nylon nuts and stainless bolts to attach the slides to the drawer.  
 

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B091T1CZD6/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On 7/7/2022 at 12:02 PM, jacwjames said:

X2 on what Richard recommended.

When I thought I was having trouble with mine I called the tech support number listed on their website and talked to a tech, I explained my symptoms and he said my inverter was toast/ not repairable.  He said that the Trace 2012 is not repairable and had to be replaced and gave me all the part numbers I'd need to upgrade to a PSW inverter. 

So I went ahead and pulled it and did some continuity testing.  I thought I had a problem as I was picking up some ohms when I thought I shouldn't so for the heck of it I found the number of a repair facility near Nashville ( I live in E TN) and called them and explained what happened initially and the testing I did.  I thought it might be one of the internal transfer switches but he said that the ohm readings I got were normal and he didn't think it was my inverter and gave me some tips on how to troubleshoot my electrical system.  Put the inverter back in, did some testing as he explained, found one bad circuit that I disconnected completely and the inverter and rest of my electrical worked.  

My point is don't rely on the Trace tech support, call a repair facility.   I believe this was the place I contacted

https://inverterservicecenter.com/contact-us

I called Inverter service and one of their technicians told me to check the voltage L1 Hot and the neutral. He said if I had voltage coming and nothing going out the inverter/ charger is bad. I checked and I have 120 coming in so I need to replace the unit. Thanks so much for the contact info for the repair center. 

On 7/7/2022 at 3:42 PM, Ivan K said:

Here is how I do it with our 3012, by memory. Turn inverter off (the switch at inverter), disconnect shore power, disconnect battery power, solar power if you have it. Disconnect the yellow RC7GS cable at inverter, not the temp sensor. There should be no power to or from the inverter now. Give it few minutes to internally discharge. Then turn batteries on. Plug the RC7 cable back in, turn inverter switch on. The RC7 will reboot and invertor work as usual. Connect shore power. Have a beer. Hope that's all you need to do.

Ivan thanks so much for the reboot procedure, I did and the only that worked out was the beer😬😬. Another responder to my post gave contact info for a inverter service center in Tennessee and I called Inverter service and one of their technicians told me to check the voltage L1 Hot and the neutral. He said if I had voltage coming and nothing going out the inverter/ charger is bad. I checked and I have 120 coming in so I need to replace the unit.  I don’t want to modify the mounting brackets so I’m going to put in a remanufactured unit. Thanks for your assistance 

On 7/7/2022 at 9:52 AM, Dr4Film said:

I would do a cold reboot of the Trace Inverter/Charger and the RC7-GS Remote first to see if that resolves your problem.

Trace RC7-GS Owners Manual.pdf 264 kB · 4 downloads Trace RV-2012 Inverter Manual.pdf 783.46 kB · 8 downloads

I called Inverter service center and one of their technicians told me to check the voltage L1 Hot and the neutral. He said if I had voltage coming and nothing going out the inverter/ charger is bad. I checked and I have 120 coming in so I need to replace the unit. Thanks for reply to my post. 

I don’t know how to reboot and have not been able find how to do in the manual. Thanks and good luck with coffee maker. Sorry that you lost your stuff. 

4 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

I would do a cold reboot of the Trace Inverter/Charger and the RC7-GS Remote first to see if that resolves your problem.

Trace RC7-GS Owners Manual.pdf 264 kB · 2 downloads Trace RV-2012 Inverter Manual.pdf 783.46 kB · 4 downloads

Thanks for the manuals. I have mine from when I purchased the coach new in 2003. I have looked them and yours and haven’t been able to find how to do a cold reboot.  I did go through setting up the RG7-GS.  I used the RG7-GS to do remote start of the generator and that worked. The charger in the inverter is not working.  Thanks 

Getting ready to leave camp ground and it noticed that the voltage on the top meter was over 150v and bottom meter was about 50 v.  I went to power pedestal and pulled out the progressive surge protector. I found that the 50amp plug was ajar while the progressive surge protector was plugged in. I reseated the coach plug and went back inside to discover that I had lost 120 volt  power. The RG 7 remote now says waiting for AC when plugged in shore power or when running the generator. If turn on the inverter all the 120 works. The ACs all work on shore and generator. The charge LEDs don’t work on either the RG 7 or on the Trace Inverter/Charger. Have I fried the Trace?  Suggestion for repair or replace. We are leaving end of August for a couple of months so kind anxious to get it fixed. Thanks so much, in advance. 

That’s it thank so much. 😀