CountryB

I found one. I ordered it from AZ RV Salvage.

I'm aware of the SeeLevel  and Silverleaf products, but I don't want to replace the Aladdin system. The Aladdin system and tank level monitoring works fine (tank levels can be displayed on the TVs or dash monitor).  My plan is to add the "Tank Level display unit" to a new location (that's if I can get one).

Thanks for the reply.

I did contact Visone  last week to buy it but they don't have any in stock. That's where I got the photos from. They show parts on their website that are not available . 

I've checked the other salvage company's "websites" (but did not call them). 

My peeve is about the "accent" trees planted on both sides along the divided rural roads  (in the median and on the curbside of the road) that no matter which lane I'm in, hit my roof and antenna. If the County/Planners wants to plant accent tress - they should at least trim them from time to time (I think they just let the delivery trucks do the trimming as they scrape under the branches).

Okay - rant over.  Hey Bob, I do feel better now. 

I'm looking for a replacement for the Aladdin "Tank Levels" display.  This is the unit located in the Wet Bay.

It is part number 38050168. If anyone have replaced their Aladdin system and has this item - I would like to buy it from you.

Thanks

I prefer to "drive" the coach up onto ramps (homemade from wood). That gives enough clearance to get under coach and work even if air bags are deflated.

I do not block the frame (to hold body up if air bags deflate) unless I'm working on something in that space (like replacing an air bag). I just know where the crush points are in the event the air bags deflate when I'm under coach, and I stay out of those crush zones. Once under/past the coach's side skirt/body, there is quite a bit of room (with or without airbags inflated).

One quick way to tell if you have the Sheppard or the TRW box, is that the TRW has an adjustment screw (set gear backlash) and Sheppard has no adjustment bolt.

TRW800_Sector_Shaft_Adjustment.pdf

The sending unit for the dash gauge is located in the trans cooler hose "fitting" that  comes off the back of the transmission.

Check to see if that wire is shorted to ground or if the sender itself is bad (grounded internally). If the wire doesn't appear to be touching metal  or shorted to ground, just take the wire off the sender unit and if the gauge then goes to "0" your sender unit is bad. If the gauge stays pegged then the wire is shorted or the dash gauge is bad.

Check out this PDF on clock spring replacement. This may not be the part number for your clock-spring (it fits my '05), so you should call the company or go to the website to verify the part number you need.

SmartzWheel Clock Spring Replacement.pdf

I had the same problem. The Smart Wheel troubleshooting instructions said to unplug the electrical connector at the Smart Wheel controller to check voltage at some of the wires. When I pulled the connector loose I found one wire came out (was not crimped to terminal end properly). Re-crimping that wire/terminal fixed the problem.

So my first suggestion is that you give each wire   a little tug at the connectors to check for bad/loose crimps.

I hope that estate has an RV garage. 😉

You can replace the boots but it takes some specialized tools. You need a tie rod joint separator tool (there are two types, one looks like a puller, the other a fork). https://www.carid.com/tie-rod-repair-tools.html  Some backyard mechanics will try to remove the tie rod by smacking the steering knuckle with a sledge hammer. That works sometimes but can also destroy the ties rod end. with a bad hit. The Tied rod is held into the steering knuckle by a tapered shaft so it takes some force or shock to break that connection.

If you use the "Fork" style, you just need to know the width of fork to use (the size of the stud on the tie rod). You can remove the nut and measure the stud size. Many auto-parts stores loan these tools. You just need the correct size (truck size, not car) for your tie rod end size.

Same for determining size of boot. You need to know the "stud size" (the hole size). If you have the old one out - you can take it to Napa or a "truck parts store". 

Once you get the tie rod separated from the knuckle, you can put a new boot on it. Then you need to reassemble - and should use a torque wrench to tighten (although some mechanics just tighten with an impact gun).  As long as you don't "screw the ties rod in/out" while you have it separated from the knuckle, the alignment wont change. Also, Know that when you reassemble, you would torque the nut to the specs, then rotate (tightening direction only - never loosen) the nut until the cotter pin hole aligns with the slot in the nut.

Lastly, note that you could leave the dust boot off and nothing terrible will happen - as long as you keep the ties rod end greased, dirt/water can't get in.

On 2/2/2020 at 10:00 AM, Dr4Film said:

Bill,

For me a side-mounted site-glass would be far better than just a single bubble type site-glass mounted high near the top of the tank which I think you were thinking of possibly.

Just my opinion.

 This design or one that has two sight glass "bubbles". One to show coolant level is high enough (showing coolant is in tank ) and one mounted higher up showing coolant is not too high (no coolant would show in this window).

It's important to know that coolant level is not rising due to diesel fuel or hyd oil getting into cooling system.  A "two window/bubble" tank or design as in the drawing above would show if coolant level is increasing. 

My first crack was due to a leveling malfunction. The second crack happened a couple of weeks ago and I was not using the coach (must have cracked due to temp changes).

I hope RV Glass Solutions can figure this out (and properly check the fit of the windshield before installing).

Thanks

These are the minimum specs for the House batteries. If the batteries you are looking meet or exceed these specs you will be fine.

If you are not currently using AGM batteries, note that there is a change in the Inverter/Charger settings that need to be changed for AGM.

I just did mine (replaced some tiles and re-grouted). I used the Spectralock "epoxy grout".

I've used this grout several times in my home and coach. It doesn't stain and it wont crack (like cement -based grout).

 https://laticrete.com/en/tile-and-stone-installation/grouts/epoxy-grouts/spectralock-pro-premium-grout

Are you still looking for the parts?

I have the circuit board and mechanicals (I bought for spare parts). I don't want to sell those parts, but I would be willing to lend them to you for your design/testing work.

I've heard good things about RV Glass Solutions. I need to take my coach there (I have a stress crack now).  I bought a crack repair kit  - for now. The kit didn't do much to "fill" the crack but I did drill a hole at the end of the crack so hopefully it wont get any bigger.

This is my second windshield crack in the last year and a half.

Someone (maybe it was you) at the Monacoers rally was telling me there are two windshield glass manufacturers, "Coach Glass" and "Guardian Glass", and one of those windshields is a little thicker (better?) than the other.  But I don't remember which was said to be better.

Do you know which  manufacturer has the better glass?  My coach has CoachGlass in it now.

Try Visone RV Parts https://rvaccessories.visonerv.com/cgi-bin/welcome.pl?

Reporting back to update this thread.

Replacing the rotor fixed the problem. No more noise and dishwasher is running normally.

This is the part I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00563KHD6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If we can't get to 50. would it be cheaper for those of us "48" attendees to just pay for "two more sites" (share the cost) - rather than all of us losing the discount and having to pay the full rate?

Is it just the cost of the "site" - or is it the full price of event (meals, seminars, etc.) that would have to be bought, to receive the discount?

It sounds like the door lock actuator motor is bad. Can you remove the inner door panel for access to check the actuator.

I'm not sure if your HR uses the same entry door setup as the Monacos, if it is the same, here are the instructions to get the panel off

Door Adjusting -entrance door.pdf

I've bought parts from Anything Truck. They have good pricing - even if you buy locally,  its nice to see their prices and know what to expect to pay.

I see they have four Rotors available (different pilot diameters) for your ADB 1560. They are all priced around $260 to $300, except one is a special order at $637. I can guess which one your coach needs 😁$$$

Shipping is not too bad (I checked the cost to ship to rotors to Orlando FL, and it was under $90)

https://www.anythingtruck.com/SRCH.html?Search=Meritor%20ADB1560

I have heard about the re-chroming shop at Space Coast. I'm not too far from that. 

How much do they charge?

Can they re-chrome the "plastic" head piece (that houses the mirrors) - or do they just do the arms?

I replaced it with the same make and model. It costs about $50 on Amazon (with next day delivery). 

Job done. Thanks for all the comments and help.