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Do you have another video display you can try (anything with an "RCA-Video" input jack)? You would just need to have access to the back of the dash-display unit or the Aladdin unit to unplug the video cable and move to a test display. This would help you figure out if the display is bad, or if the Aladdin unit is the problem. Also, does the display screen look normal (menus, radio, etc.) for everything else but the Aladdin?

It looks like my (2005) rear AC unit (Dometic Duo-Therm 630516.321) is going to need to be replaced soon. I will go with the Penguin II. I just need to figure out how to use my existing 5-button CCC thermostat/controller. Since my Coach is wired with the 5-button CCC, and the middle and rear units share the thermostat/controller, I will need to replace the "control board" in the new AC unit with the 5-button control "board" to keep the same thermostat/controller. That least that is what I have read. My question is - is the PC board in my current AC unit the same as the one that would need to be ordered with a new AC unit to retain compatibility with the existing 5-button controller? I.e. is the old board the same size and wiring connections that it will fit in the new AC unit - or is there a different control board I need to order with the new unit? I have some instructions (attached) for upgrading a 10-button CCC to a 5-button (not exactly what I want to do - unless the "new" AC unit comes as a 10-button CCC setup), so I 'm not sure if this is applicable when installing a new unit and using an existing CCC. I suppose I will/should call Dometic to see what they say, but thought I would start here. Thanks Dometic Conversion Kit 10 button CCC2 to 5 button CCC instructions.pdf

Tim, I'm talking about the dash AC, not the roof AC units. I only need to cool the driver/co-pilot area (while driving) not the entire coach. My home AC unit is 3 tons. Not sure your numbers are correct for an automotive use. I don't know, but there are many 12V AC compressor systems being used on classic car restorations, etc. and on those applications they are cooling the entire interior (I just want cool air blowing on me when driving) so I don't need to run my generator/roof AC). Check out Custom Cooler IV. Universal Air Conditioning Kit (classicautoair.com) for example... If a car can use an electric AC compressor, then my motorhome should be more than capable (as I have a much sturdier electrical system - 160A alternator, dual chassis batteries, etc.) However, I decided that I am going to cut off the hose ends and replace them first. If that doesn't work - then I'll go back and rethink the electric compressor idea. Thanks

I'd buy it - if BradHend doesn't get to it first. Email me at mike(dot)shumack@gmail.com if BradHend doesn't respond.

Thanks. Yeah, something is wrong. Bad design I think. Some older Monaco models had a fix for their cracking windshields called the "Halo kit". This was a frame installed around the front cap to add rigidity. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/halo-kit-392127.html. I was on a thread about this when my windshield cracked the first time. But that fix is not feasible for me (as I would need to tear the front interior/cap apart which is more than I'm willing to do at this time). Regarding leveling and parking: I plan to do exactly as said above - dump the air when parked in storage, and not use the auto-leveling feature (I'll manually level if needed).

Lots of good ideas. Thanks. Replacing the hose ends was my first inclination but there is not much room to work with. But the cheapest repair I think. I guess this should be my first attempt. On the amperage draw - I see in the specs that max output is 1200W (so 100A at 12V), but that should not be an issue my alternator and batteries can keep up with that load (which won't be a max output all the time). My Generator is mounted about 2 feet away from where this compressor would go, and has the cabling (wire size) to support adding a new feed for this AC compressor. Would need to figure out what size compressor I need to fit with my OEM condenser and evaporator/drier. The one listed below is 20cc (not sure what the OEM compressor size is). PS. My Condenser is located in the front behind fiberglass cap on drivers side. (Not at rear sandwiched against radiator like many coaches). https://www.guchen-eac.com/what/low-voltage-electric-compressor/ld20a12ab-12v-dc-mini-refrigeration-compressor.html

My AC for "dashboard" is not working. I have leaking hose fittings/crimps at the compressor. That's the only leak I can find, but the fix (replacing hoses) is difficult. Trying to replace two 45+ ft AC hoses running along the frame is not easy. A recharge doesn't last more than a couple of weeks. On my coach the condenser is at the front, so all the components are in the front except the engine mounted ac compressor. I'm thinking it would be great if I could get an electric (12V) AC compressor and mount that in the front and abandon the hoses running front to back. A lot of cars are coming with electric AC compressors now (similar to the electric power steering coming on all the new cars). What do you think? Has anyone done this? I see several company's (ProAir, Reconair, ClassicAir, etc) make 12V AC kits - which include everything for installing on a "restored muscle car", etc., but in my case I would want to use all the factory stuff - the evaporator, duct work, controls, and condenser/fan setup - and just install the electric compressor with some new hoses.

I'm at RV Glass Solutions now getting my windshield replaced - again. This is the third time that it cracked (when not being driven) during the startup and leveling process. I think the coach wheelbase is just too long (at 24ft) and the frame twists too much once the auto leveling starts. Last two times I was parked at home and went out to start coach and level it (as it will leak some air when sitting letting back corner drop a little). So I start the engine, build up air pressure, and hit the HWH auto-level button. I think that is my mistake. The Coach lifts and drops and creaks and pops, then the windshield cracks. While the glass was broken I figured that would be good time to "test" the leveling system - but it seems to be working fine. Nothing unsual going on. I guess I should play it sage and only level manually from now on. However, I think it is a design defect on the mid-year Beaver Patriot. So I'm just writing this to warn any other coach owners with a long wheel base to be careful and maybe not use auto-leveling (manually level, then switch to auto mode once it is level). Mike

Thanks again for taking the time to reply. I have a set of ramps, and I can get under the Coach to do most of the work needed. But the Treadle valve can not be reached from below. I had the AC condenser and fan out, but still cant get to the valve form the bottom. I can just about get to the backside of the headlights. I then took Coach to Josams (Truck frame/repair shop in Orlando) were they have a pit (and lifts) and they could not get to valve either. Cost me $75 to hear that. There is nothing to remove on top of generator that will help. There is a large frame member (the cradle/frame surrounding generator. The frame you can see just above my light in the photo) blocking access from reaching in (only the camera fit in far enough to get the photo above). Generator would need to come out - but that is better than cutting a hole in the fiberglass cap.. If (when) I get access, I will be replacing the push-to-connect fittings with the compression style. However the leak is slow enough now that I'm not going to worry about it until it gets worse.

Just curious about how the "Air Dump" system works on Coaches with the HWH air leveling system. Does the air dump though the HWH manifold, or is there a separate dump valve? I don't have any wiring diagrams, or air schematic diagrams, showing how the dump system works. My HWH control panel has a "dump" button - but I also have a separate Air Dump rocker switch next to the HWH panel. Are both switches acting on the same valve (HWH valves)?

I appreciate all the replies and suggestions. I have tried to figure out a way to reach the leaking fitting but it cant be done without removing the generator (or cutting an access opening in the fiberglass/cap). Since the leak is not that bad (not a problem when engine is running), I'm going to leave it as is for now - and come back to it later is necessary.

Hi Jim, I could not find a way to access the brake valve looking from under the dash. Perhaps I need to dig around inside the dash board area a little deeper. I would make sense that the manufacture would provide some sort of access. Your post gives me some hope. BTW - regarding the reply from Frank, the air line is leaking at the internal o-ring where the nylon tubing/line pushes into the "push-to-connect" fitting (not the NPT side of fitting). But since I cant reach the brake valve, I can't replace the fitting (or trim the end of the tube and reinsert). On the other fittings located throughout the Coach of this push-connection design - when they leak, I replace the entire fitting with the "DOT compression style" fitting. I've replace many around the Coach so far. They always seem to leak (after 15-20 years when the o-ring dries out/wears out). The compression style never leak... Thanks P.S. Frank I'm originally from Flemington area. Small world.

Hi Vito. I wish I could reroute around this air leak somehow, but the air leak is at the supply line at the "push-to-connect" fitting which is threaded into the brake valve. There is no rerouting fix.

Has anyone worked on (replaced or repaired air line leaks) at the Brake Treadle valve? I have a leaking supply line but cant reach it to work on it. The brake valve is sandwiched between the firewall and front cap. I tried to access myself and could not fit. I took coach to repair shop and they could not reach it either. I guess I would have to cut an access hole in the front cap/fiberglass if the valve ever needed to be replaced. For now I live with the leak. Did Beaver really design the Coach this way (cant service or replace the brake valve without cutting a hole in the front cap)? 2005 Beaver Patriot Thunder (Roadmaster M10 chassis).

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I have not been able to get the AC to act up when I'm ready for testing it. I'll try and run it another 8 hours or so - maybe I can catch it then. Or it could have acted up due to cooler nights in TN (I'm back in FL now). I'm sure if I cant get to fail now while I'm home, it will fail on my next camping trip... BTW - I ordered the Reversing solenoid ($50). I'm just taking a guess - if I'm wrong, at least I eliminated one thing. Since this is an intermittent problem it may take a while before it acts up with me watching. Interestingly, the troubleshooting manual says do not use a voltmeter for testing - use a 120V light bulb. Great so now I have to make this testing tool. What could possibly go wrong with that? Copy/paste from the manual (below): a. Roof Top Air Conditioners The operation of the AC control box can be checked at the 6-pin plug connection. Disconnect the unit and use a 115 volt light bulb to check from terminal 5 (the white or common wire) to: Terminal 1 (blue) is the compressor Terminal 2 (black) is high speed fan Terminal 3 (yellow) is medium speed fan Terminal 4 (red) is low speed fan Terminal 6 (green/yellow) chassis ground If the circuit is completed the light bulb will illuminate. Note: Do not use a voltmeter to do the above tests as it will give erroneous readings.

My rear (bedroom) AC is acting up. It's a Dometic Duo-Therm (13.5K Heat pump) with the 5 button thermostat. I was camping for a week in TN, and it was running all day. One evening I was outside and heard a loud tapping or knocking noise form the ground. I traced the noise to the rear AC unit. I climbed up on the roof and removed the AC cover. It sounds like it is coming form the right rear corner area (which I later identified as the "Reverser Valve" (area) by looking at the parts manual to see what was in the right rear corner of the AC unit. Back inside the Coach the thermostat would not work so I could not shut off zone 3. The mode button was not functioning (and the screen looked dim) so I could not go through the various AC modes and turn off the unit. Then I switched the main on/off switch at the base of the thermostat off and then back on and the thermostat was working again. So whatever the issue is with the tapping noise it is affecting the thermostat too. I just ran the AC in Fan only mode that night. Next day I put AC back into cool mode and it ran all day with no issues/noises. But the next day that tapping noise was back after running fine all day. Back home now, I ran the AC unit on generator all day and it ran fine. I never tried running it in heat pump mode. I read several posts and watched some You Tube videos on troubleshooting the "Reversing Valve" (that is the part that switches (reverses) the AC to go from cooling to heat pump. Nothing in the troubleshooting posts or videos mentioned any tapping noises. So I'm not sure if the reversing solenoid is going bad or something in the control side. Anyways, I'm going to take a chance and just replace the reversing valve solenoid. It's on backorder everywhere - but I have my order in. It's about the cheapest part on the unit and about the only thing I can do without special tools. I'll report back if it fixes it. If anyone has had this tapping/knocking noise and diagnosed it, let me know.

I spray some lube on the rollers/pins (where the X-arms pivot) but not the chain.

Thanks. That Hutchinson band looks a lot like the Rettroband product. I wonder which came first (is there a patent infringement here)? It's nice to know there is another company making the band. https://www.hutchinsoninc.com/runflats/

There is a competitor to the Tyron Bands, the Rettroband. I think this is a better solution although it's expensive (about $3,500 for a set for 295/80 tires). https://www.rettroband.com/ The Rettroband is designed to let the Coach ride on the "band" during a deflate so the wheel-end does not drop as far to the ground (and it keeps the tire on the wheel).

In the photo I had the wheel jacked up (with a hydraulic jack, and caged the spring brake) so I could rotate the driveshaft. The Tag axle is hanging.

That didn't work - tried it. I have a thread on this subject on another forum. Could be that the air pressure is too low to move the AC leak-detecting fluid through the entire system (I assume it is just sitting at the bottom of the wet air tank, or coated the tank). Maybe I didn't use/add enough (I added 8 oz. which is a full bottle of UV leak-dye). Maybe over time some of the UV fluid will work its way through the system and show at the source of a leak, but if it did make it through the air system it should be visible at the "exhaust port" of the air brake and leveling valves by now - which is the path of least resistance (compared to a small air leak at a fitting or such).

You need to dig out at least 2/3 rds of the existing grout (but its easy to remove it all with the proper tool) - so the new grout has enough surface to bond to. I used an oscillating tool with grout blade and it cut out the old grout in minutes. This one (but all the tool makers have a knock off of this tool now). P.S. the gold disk is the grout remover.

Here a page from the wiring diagram. I hope it is still legible when you zoom in. Good luck

The Aladdin components interconnect using a "Bus Tap" (p/n 38020885) and a short jumper harness (p/n 38040101 for the 3ft length). The connector ends are the same. You can replace a Joystick with a Tank Level display using the same wiring harness connector, but if you wanted to add an additional display/unit you would need to find a Bus Tap with an unused plug (or buy another Bus Tap) and get the appropriate length wiring harness. Also - I should mention the "Tank Level Display" unit I just bought is part number 38050167 (not 38050168) for $100. The seller says he doesn't know what the difference is between the ...168 and ...167, but they look identical. So I'm taking a chance.