CountryB

The cameras are made by Intec. I had one repaired already. You might want to call them to see if they have have an upgraded version. I believe they have a color version to replaced the BW ones that came in my coach - that's if you don't mind the brick style. Then you don't need to worry about wiring or mounting changes . http://www.intecvideo.com/contact.html

It does the draining of the tray. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qP_X9iG0f-g&list=LLOMSzwH-Yrxxrxbs3c2NxBQ&index=2&t=0s

A common failure. 🙂 Darn auto-correct. a colon failure would be applicable to a different appliance.

I guess you bought the Fumoto drain that doesn't have the nipple. The one with the nipple for the ISM is the T203NS. The nipple is a 5/8" diameter. They sell a cover/cap for it (but almost anything would work - like an automotive vacuum port plug). BTW - for anyone with a Caterpillar C13 engine (pre 2006). My 2005 C13 (KCB serial) is an Acert engine- but the Fumoto plug for an Acert engine is too large with 1-5/16 threads. The correct Drain Plug for this engine is the T205NS (listed as non-Acert) which has 1-1/8" threads.

Thanks to the Internet and YouTube, there is enough info on fixing this problem (F2 error). I ordered the "rotor" assembly, a colon failure point on these dishwashers. It cost $100. Easy to remove. No major disassembly required.

I found the service manual. Here https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/appliances/dishwasher_service.pdf If I can get it apart, I can probably fix it (can't make it worse). The dishwasher is a model DS603i.'

I have a "Drawer" style dishwasher in my 2005 Beaver. I have owned the coach for two years now but never tried the dishwasher. So testing it was on my punch list. I tried to run it the other day and it doesn't work. It make a ratcheting sound (like plastic gears slipping). Then it just beeps continuously. The manual says to call for Service. I dont want to have pay service tech to come out for a dishwasher that is really not needed - but if its something i can fix myself, then I'll try. Has anyone else had this malfunction? If so, what was the cause?

Found last air leak (I think last). It's at the Treadle Valve - a place that is easy to see but not easy to get to.

That's a good point. I know there is some internal leakage with the check valves because I can air up the tanks and then drain the Dry side tank and pull off the feed hose and I will get some small air flow out of the Wet tank. So the check valve is "seeping" but that is an internal leak, and I need to focus on finding the external leaks. I can look in the end of the tank (plug removed) and see the check valve. It looks pretty clean, but I cant see the sealing seat of course. Regarding soapy water - i am spraying everything. That's how I found the leakign "safety Relief" valve I asked about in my first post. I also see two other small leaks. On is at a brake valve "fitting", the other is on the Tag Axle dump solenoid. I don't think it is worth messing with the solenoid, and the fitting is hard to get to. They look to be small leaks so I 'm not sure it worth messing with. But I suppose all the small leaks add up. Today I plan to spry the air system at the front of coach (there's not much up front, except the treadle valve). I did spray the HWH 6-pack and did not see any leaks there.

Just thought I'd add - both of those "stacked air tanks" (in my photo) have "internal check valves" that separate the Wet and Dry sides of the tank. I'm going to try to remove one ans see if it can be cleaned (I doubt there is a replacement available).

That's good advice. I'll be going under the front end today with my soap spray.

I'm losing air in both tanks rather quickly (over night or faster). I have not found any major leaks yet (I did find a good leak at the pressure relief valve on the air tank and plugged that) . However I think the Primary and Secondary air systems are not staying "separated". I'm trying to figure out where the two air systems (primary/green and secondary/red) tie together. Usually trucks will use a "shuttle valve" to connect the two air systems together - so if one side loses pressure the shuttle valve will slide over and block that port and continue to supplying air pressure (to whatever component) from the air side that has more pressure.I'm losing air in both sides equally fast. so I think there is a "shuttle valve" somewhere that is not closing. I cant think of anything else that would let both tanks drain equally. An Air System schematic would be useful - but there dotn seem to be any for the SMC Magnum D-series (Blue Diamond) chassis. I have three air tanks. There are two stacked tanks on the outside of frame near front of coach, and one tank in the rear over the drive line.The rear tank only has two lines (and a tanks drain line). One of those lines goes to the Relay Valve for the Tag Axle brakes. The other (black) line is the supply from the front tank. Also the Red line on the bottom tank (the one wire tied to Black line) looks to be feeding the rear Relay Brake valve for the Drive Axle.So the problem must be in the front of coach somewhere. I need to trace out the Red and Green 5/8" lines that go from stacked tanks toward the front. Does anyone have any ideas or other places to check? I have not located the air supply line coming form the Air Dryer. It's a 5/8" Green line. That could be the green line that goes into the lower tank (at the right just out of the photo). That green line goes into a pressure protection valve at the tank. I need to trace those two 5/8" lines going toward the front of coach.

On my 2005 Patriot Thunder, both rear (bedroom) slides are hydraulic and controlled from switches on the wall plate (along with the bedroom lighting) at the entrance to the bedroom. Does anyone know how these "rear slide room" switches are wired? Where does the power come from - is there a relay in the circuit? I have the PT wiring diagram but it doesn't cover the Slides. The "relay" in the front run box (marked "Slide Out") is only for the two front slides. I don't see anything for the rear slides.

Good luck in retirement, Chris. If you're like me, in a couple of months you will get bored with retirement - and start something new. I look forward to seeing what that will be. -Mike

For towing, there is no need to completely remove the drive shaft. You just need to remove it from the "differential end", then swing it out of the way (so the differential yoke can't hit it as it spins) and "tie" it to something ( a frame rail or crossmember). It's a waste of effort to remove both ends. And if you do want to remove it completely, why bother to separate it - that's a third step? Lastly, if you are going to separate it, it is easy and wise to just mark the two haves with a paint pen (why not just mark yours "now" for later) for easy alignment on reassembly.

I have the same tool. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UF4L9BU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It can be found cheaper in the Chinese brands. When I removed my U-joint I used an air-powered 1/2" drive impact gun, and it took a lot of force to get that cap moving. I would not wanted to have to had to use a socket and ratchet (although I' m sure it could have been done that way with a 1/2" drive breaker bar). It was probably the first time in a over decade that the bearing cap was pulled. In my younger days as a truck mechanic, we would put a hydraulic jack under the drive shaft yoke (pushing up) and then smack the top of the differential (or transmission) yoke with a sledge hammer to drive the caps out. But there was no way that would have worked on my coach. First there isn't enough room to swing a hammer, and second - it was really really tight. Without that tool it wan't coming out. Any competent Tow Truck company would have that tool - the question is, when Road Service sends out a tow truck - is that company sent competent? BTW, there are two types of cap-bolt retainers used. They use a "lock plate" where you thread the cap bolts in then bend the tabs of the retainer plate up against the flat of the bolt head, the other style uses retaining bolts that have a thread-locking compound on them. You should not reuse the bolt with the locking compound. My style has the retaining plate (like in the drawing on the puller/bearing above). So if you have the other style get some new retaining bolts and throw them in your spare parts bin. If a tow truck guy pulls your drive shaft, you know they will just reinstall with the same old bolts/tabs. So I carry the correct parts and I would either provide them to the guy at time of install, or install them myself. I would not rely on the tow truck guy to do the job right. If it comes apart later (maybe months later) you know who will foot the bill.

Here's a video showing removing an axle with the tool (it take more time to install the tool, then to just hit the axle directly). You can see how wacking the axle flange pops the wedge locks loose (same with or with a tool). See this video (just the first couple of seconds to see how the axle shaft comes out).

I carry a U-joint puller too. If you can get under the coach that may be the best/easiest. I pulled the rear U-joint on my coach before. And I have to jack up one wheel so I can rotate the u-joint into the correct position for the puller (for each bearing cap) - so that's another step. To remove an axle shaft, you have to remove all the nuts then smack the center of the axle with a sledge hammer. That smack pops the wedge-shaped locks loose. Then you pull each lock off the stud and you can slide the axle shaft out. At this point oil will start running out so you need a catch can under it. Once the axle is fully removed you can put the "axle cap/cover" on and use the same nuts to tighten it down. On the procedure document attached, then show using a brass driver to smack with the sledge. I have never used one of those - I just wack the center of the axle. But if your aim is off and you hit a stud then you have a bigger job, so a brass drift like shown or one of these tools is desirable. https://www.kienedieseltools.com/product/26181/kiene-axle-shaft-removal-tool?affiliateID=10056&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhLXd7qDC5gIVReDICh37ZQCEEAQYASABEgK3V_D_BwE but for a "one time" tool, it is expensive. I've never had a problem just smacking the axle flange directly (the axle flange is designed to be hit). Also, you only need to pull one axle shaft if the differential doesn't have limited slip (as most don't). So you pull one axle, then if you can turn the driveshaft by hand, your done. If you had limited slip differential you would not be able to turn the driveshaft by hand, then you would need to pull the other axle. The goal is to not have the driveshaft turn when towing so the transmission output shaft and counter shaft is not turning (which if turning while turning while the engine is not running could burn up the tranny bearings). Removing Axle Shaft.pdf

If the driveshaft can't be removed, the axle shafts will need to be pulled. And a lot of times pulling the axles is easier (you don't have to get under coach - especially if air bags are deflated). However if you pull the axle shafts you need a "cover" to put over the openings so the oil doesn't run out. Here's an example of the cover plates (this is a full set for Tow Truck operators) you would just need a pair for your specific coach's axle model. Of course you can make a set out of most anything. I would buy/make and keep a pair in the Coach in case you need a ever tow and the Tow Truck doesn't have a set (that is better than having Driver using cardboard and risking leaks and maybe burning up a bearing (or best case making a mess all over the tires)). https://www.myteeproducts.com/axle-caps-axle-covers-22-pc-set.html?fee=36&fep=4768&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7oXHvpXC5gIV7ffjBx2L4Qa8EAQYBCABEgIt2fD_BwE

I see that "signatures" only show to you if you are logged in

I went into Profile and added some info "about me" (my background, hobbies, etc.) but then I see it posts the entire profile ("About Me") under my avatar on each post. That takes up a lot of space and is not what I expected, so I just limited my profile info to what I think is relevant to this forum (with regards to Coach repair/ownership). Maybe that is how this site/forum works. On other forums, there is a profile section that is only shown when a curious member clicks on someones avatar. If that is a setting that can be turned on for this site, it is preferable, IMO, to having the entire profile displayed with each post. And Thanks for the forum and your work hosting and moderating it.

It can be scraped off, but not brushed/wiped off. I'd say it is more of a "stain". I have not tried to mess with it yet - but what I did mess with seems to be in top grout layer. I can uses a grout saw (like toothbrush sized) and lightly scrape to a clean layer of grout. So this white stuff is on the surface. I suppose that means it is not coming "up" from underneath due to wet plywood. Maybe water sat "on the top" of tile (window left open in rain, or water spilled) although I cant recall either of those things happening.

What is the "Leader Board" - I thought it might be the members with the highest posts, but that is not it (some only have three posts). How does one become a Leader? Also, a suggestion for the "Staff" thread/list. How about posting a little biography about the Staff - like how many years a motor-coach (or Monaco) owner, or any specific training (RVA or mechanical background), whatever is appropriate. It would be interesting to know a little more about the staff here.

I am getting a white stain (maybe efflorescence) on the tile grout in my bath. I don't see any obvious signs of water leakage (looking in the opening behind/under the toilet it all looks dry, and the wall paper and wood trim are dry). What do you think is going on? Has anyone had this in their coach?

Okay - I'll order a new one. Ron, LOL, we have dogs but no one has been in the coach for past month.