bklaes

12 minutes ago, dereeves said:

What is the carpet by the couch? 

The rug was purchased from runrug.com and then cut to fit.  Running the slide in and out tore the trim binding off the rug.  It was not cheap, and just recently replaced. 

When my guy started installing the LVT, he started going side to side.  I mentioned, most pictures I've seen of installs the tiles are laid front to back.  He said, I'll do it any way you want, but it makes more sense to me to have them side to side.  I went with his recommendation.  I've had no issues and it looks great.  I still don't know if the tiles should have been laid front to back... would have been fewer tiles to cut though.

amequipment.com  helped with my '05.

15 hours ago, Kenster said:

The original is more square with slightly radiused corners, and the replacement that supersedes the original appears to be slightly rounded on the top. Did you have white paint showing around the top of the newer version? If so, how did you address that?

Fortunately on mine, no un-painted area was visible with the new handle.   The replacement costs around $50 and $10 for shipping

For my '05 Diplomat, I got tired of having to slap the lever toward the back of the coach to get the door open.  Kids and grands thought the door was locked when it wasn't.

RVPartsCenter.com had SKU# 61293, TriMark RV Door Lock Replacemnt for 13238-04, 22660-04.   It superceded my original part number.

When it arrived, it wouldn't fit in the hole in my door.  I called their Customer Service.  He was nice and explained because of the redesign, the door needs to be notched out.  I was none too happy about taking an oscillating tool to the door, but I did.  As I recall it was a very small corner that had to be notched out to allow the new handle to fit inside.  I'm VERY happy with the new action of the replacement.

Something seems different.   I'll keep re-read and re-watch the info.

Martin, I will use a 3/16" spacer from CRL, then fill with spacer sealant.   After that, I'm asking if I apply a strip of butyl that is 1" wide (probably 1/8" thick") or reuse the original rubber weather seal.   

Dick, so I'm clear... you ran a bead of silicone around the 2 panes after the spacer sealant was applied, and before you re-installed the "U-shape" weather stripping?

Something else I forgot to mention in my original post... a bead of white silicon/pro-flex was applied to the outside of the door around the window hole, before the window frame was inserted.   A small bead of caulk, in the area that is unpainted.   I didn't read anything about making that bead of caulk during reassembly.

I'm doing the door window removal, cleaning, reassembly and reinstall project to eliminate the moisture between the panes.
(Tom Cherry, I HAVE SEARCHED this forum and HAVE READ the prior posts and HAVE WATCHED YouTube videos).
I still have a question.  It is suggested using butly tape to seal the 2 back together.

In 2015 JACWJAMES wrote, Monaco did not use the butyl type caulk on the window but instead used a rubber type weather seal that you could reuse if you didn't cut up too bad with the putty knife."

My original rubber seal survived disassembly and is in good shape.  I have in my shop a roll of 1" Butyl tape.
Any recommendations... re-use the original rubber weather seal or use the butyl tape?   Use both?   I just don't want to go thru this again.

I just went through this exercise replacing the hose reel last week.  It's not as daunting as it first appears.  Although, I ended up calling a handyman/plumber to help break apart the fittings for the fresh water spigot, black tank rinse and winterizing blow out fixtures.  He had a couple pair of LARGE channel locks and muscles.  Niether of which I have.  He also stuck around to help replace the reel and reassemble/reinstall the white panel.  He wasn't an RV guy but his assistance made the process much quicker.

I use broomsticks in the floor channels.  Not too elegant, but keeps them shut.

Try the easy first... my ISL 400 dropped 35 degrees in operating temp when the (rear) radiator was hosed off using simple green and wam water.  I hosed it off from the outside, and the inside through the floor hatch above the engin.e.

Make sure the stove knobs didn't get bumped.

Some for Speedometer and fuel gauge on my '05 Diplomat.   Sometimes the low pressure alarm does not go off for 3-4 minutes after reaching pressure, sometimes it goes off right away.  I replaced the Nason switch under the air brake plunger, but the alarm still acts the same.  There is a thread a few years old I want to explore.  

Does anybody have any experience with Milwaukee's tire inflator?  The auto shut-off at desired pressure is appealing.
I own a Viair,  It's slow and I don't like that it's 12v. 
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Specialty-Tools/2848-20

Again, Tom Cherry comes through with great advice. 
I unplugged the Norcold's ice maker and the GFCI has not tripped in 16 hours.  I'll plug the ice maker into the same receptacle as the refrigerator.

I regret and apologize that I didn't search for my problem on here first. 
My thought was, this is so weird, I doubt anyone has ever seen anything like this before.  I was wrong and will do better next time.   
Thanks to all that helped me through it.  

Yes, I bought a new RV-rated GFI outlet and swapped it out.

I'm plugged into 50amp.   The GFI outlet in the rear bath keeps tripping.  It was replaced but the problem persists.  After resetting it, 5-10 minutes later it trips again. 

It appears all but 2 receptacles (in the bedroom) are downstream from this GFI.  When it trips all the bath, galley, salon, & patio outlets go dead.  No other electrical circuits affected.

After trying a lot of things, I came up with this: 
With the GFI set and providing power to all the outlets (I've got 5 minutes before it trips again)...
Turning off the breaker labeled BEDROOM in the rear breaker box makes nothing happen.  All outlets stay powered on.
Turning off the breaker labeled INVERTER in the rear breaker box makes all those outlets power off.
Turning the inverter off at the EMS control switch, does not affect the power to the outlets.

What is this telling me?

I've got a 2005 DST 1.5 bath floorplan - if anybody has the 120v diagram for a DST, it would be greatly appreciated.  I've downloaded the 120 schematic for a 2006 Diplomat.  It helps, but doesn't line up exactly with only 1 bath.   

Weekend music festivals.  Most often they have space for RVs.

On 8/29/2023 at 1:32 PM, Raymond said:

I’d really like to know how this turns out—ventless-dryer in motorhome....

I've been running the LG vent-less combo unit for 6 years.  No issues.  I was hesitant to install vent-less fearing over heating inside the cabinet, but that hasn't happened.

I installed a vent-less LG Combo (slightly-used-made-for-an-apartment) unit 6 years ago and still pleased.  Loads do take a long time.  But a load is started at bed time is finished in the morning.     It's heavy.   It's very heavy.  No way the Monaco-designed particle board shelf and shelf supports (2 screws and staples on each side) would ever hold it so the shelf and supports were reinforced.

We are not full timers.  When we head out, we pack enough clothss to last the entire trip, and don't count on using the W/D.  But it is sure convenient when it is needed.  There is nothing wrong using laiundromats, I'm just not a laundromat kind of guy.

Does my Diplomat have drain tubes?

On my 05 diplomat, there is a bank of 4 rocker switches on the right if you walk in the door. The switch on the far left is the one you are talking about.

And, the unlock button on the key fob turns on courtesy lights.

8 hours ago, vito.a said:

From the owner's manual:
... Momentarily pressing the ATC switch allows the ECU to increase the amount of engine torque applied to the drive wheel in an ATC event. ...

The owners manual makes sense but doesn't answer the question, "When do you use it?"    Or maybe now the question should be, "What is an ATC event?"

My Silverleaf gives accurate readouts of my ISL400 engine temps.   Consistenly, at 215 degrees an alarm quietly goes off.  If I reach 220, it's loud.  225 alarm plus Check Engine Light.  230 the Stop Engine Light comes on.   As the engine cools, the reverse happens.   It might be the same audible alarm as my air pressure, not sure.

4 hours ago, bestins said:

How are you getting to the radiator to clean from the inside, or what tools are you using.  Like you I've always cleaned mine from the rear, looking at the front of radiator from the access hole in the bedroom, I don't see a way to really give it a good washing. 

On my bath and a half floorplan, there is an access panel in the floor of the rear closet.  I get good coverage using the wand on the 1 gallon sprayer, and spray nozzle on the end of the hose.