bklaes

My Silverleaf gives accurate readouts of my ISL400 engine temps.   Consistenly, at 215 degrees an alarm quietly goes off.  If I reach 220, it's loud.  225 alarm plus Check Engine Light.  230 the Stop Engine Light comes on.   As the engine cools, the reverse happens.   It might be the same audible alarm as my air pressure, not sure.

4 hours ago, bestins said:

How are you getting to the radiator to clean from the inside, or what tools are you using.  Like you I've always cleaned mine from the rear, looking at the front of radiator from the access hole in the bedroom, I don't see a way to really give it a good washing. 

On my bath and a half floorplan, there is an access panel in the floor of the rear closet.  I get good coverage using the wand on the 1 gallon sprayer, and spray nozzle on the end of the hose.

Scotty, This is timely.   I"ve owned my Dip for 7 years and at first it ran very hot, but the Simple Green in a garden sprayer treatment on front and back dropped temps 30 degrees!   (from 207 to 177)   Over the years the temps have crept up, despite me hosing off the rear radiator regularly - from the rear only... a maintenance shortcut. 

Prior to my recent big trip last month, I hosed off the radiator with Simple Green - again from the rear only.  Through the mountains the temps soared.  Check engine and even stop engine light came on as I crept up a mountain.  After a cool down, the ISL400 continued to run fine.   Once home I hosed off the radiator from the inside out and was shocked to see how much dirt came out.  I'm eager to see how the temps do.

Good News.  Problem solved.  Very low tech.

When any of the three S/O buttons on the system panel was pressed, I could hear a faint buzzing coming from the Slide-Out Relay Module box, located in the battery compartment.  I unplugged both of the Molex connectors, sprayed with DeoxIT, then reseated both and all is well again. 

Thanks to everyone who chimed in.  

22 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

...  take a photo of your slide control print and post. Most of us are “generally” familiar with the circuit.  ...  Some folks will steal or hook up a jumper from a nearby 12 VDC (working of course) source….then remove the incoming switch power….

 

Tom,

Two sets of prints, close to my coach but not exact, were downloaded.   I can't locate anything relating to slide-outs on either set.  I'll try stealing a 12 VDC source later today, as you suggested.

Slides are electric.  The volt meter is my friend, but reading wiring diagrams is not in my bag of tricks.  Maybe it will be soon.

The salesman switch solenoid is by-passed.   Everything else seems to be working fine.   I'm plugged in to 50amp.   It's in neutral.  Park brake on and idiot light behaving.   My bays don't have lock-out switches.

What I've tried today:

Reading the owners manual and other posts here.  Much of it got over my head pretty quick.

I checked the slide-out relay module located in the battery compartment  - a good 5 amp fuse and the 20 amp auto-reset circuit breaker is working.  

The S/O fuses in the rear distribution panel (containing the 110v circuit breakers) are good.

Fuses in the front run bay under the driver: the IGN LOCK OUT, SLIDE-OUT RELAY, and three S/O PWR are all good. 

One note - I just got back from a 3,000 mi trip.  Slides worked great, but the Cummins 400 was running hotter than usual so when I go home I did the Simple Green in a garden sprayer trick, from the inside out.  I rinsed the radiator with a garden hose, through the rear floor access hatch in the closet.  Maybe I tripped something while spraying?

I took delivery on my hybrid Maverick last August. I took it to e trailer in St Louis and they hooked me up with a complete tow package from scratch.  They recommended, and I went along with, powering the truck from the coach.  Putting the truck in neutral tow mode through the menu is very simple, and releases the steering for towing. 

The bill at e trailer was about 2500, but since they don't let you stay in the coach while they're working on it, and it took 4 days, I have to add an additional $500 for hotels meals Uber etc

My Norcold was rebuilt at National RV Refrigeration in Shipshewana.  National was sold a while back, but the new owners still do great work.

My ISL400 had the same situation.  Spray-on / wipe-off engine degreaser on the pan revealed it coming from the plug on the passenger side of the pan.   Oil was slowly dripping down, and more slowly creeping up.  Cummins tech said not to worry, and that the plug could be replaced even without dropping the oil first.  I think not.  I'll wait till my next change and do it then.   And, I'd sell my coach before switching to cheap bourbon.

A post from here a few weeks ago...   I haven't bought in yet tho...

Does oyster = beige?

Try Grote.com for a replacement.

Thanks everybody.  Good info.  Helps a lot.

I'm always on the inside at the controls.  I haven't noticed any walls or bottom of the slideout dragging.  I'll get someone to run it whil;e I'm outside.  One thing to note, the mattress and bed frame are removed to get more floor space.   The slide isn't carrying near near as much weight as it did originally.  I would think that would help its operation, but then, I'm the one with the cracked body.

Well shoot, I sure hated making this 5" discovery coming off my rear slideout of my '05 Diplomat DST.  What's my first step?

As a follow-up to my original post...  I rented a uhaul 2-wheel car dolly and towed my 2022 Ford Maverick from Indiana to eTrailer in Missouri behind my '05 Diplomat.

I had eTrailer install an all-Roadmaster tow setup on the Maverick.  The system incluces: a Direct Connect base plate, Falcon 2 Tow Bar, Brakemaster proportional aux braking system, battery charger, and all the extras to complete the setup.   The system works very well.  Not difficult to hook-up and un-hook.  The install is top notch and free by eTrailer.   Much stuff was added to the coach and the truck; in the grill, in the cab and under the hood, which I interpret as just more stuff to adjust, maintain, and eventually breakdown.  But, oh well.

The project turned out more expensive than I originally anticipated.  The biggest budget add-on was 3 nights at a Holiday Inn Express ($550) plus Ubering around to restaurants for 3 days.   I'm not used to this, I have a nice RV.  eTrailer folks explained customers are not allowed in their rigs due to insurance restraints.   

I once  had a stove burner knob bumped from the off position.  I could smell propane inside and out.

"Elkhart Sales & Service has closed their doors."

Sad news indeed.   I'm in Indiana and ESS is my go to for specialized-Monaco service.  ESS (Tom & Marvin) were always welcomed participants at the annual Maintenance Session in Goshen.   Tom is the best, no question.  It would be great if Marvin could keep it going with the other competent techs that worked there. 

Scotty,
The steps to add a phone number are slightly different on my screens.

     1)  Click on triangle behind name on upper right corner
     2)  Click on Account Settings
     3)  Click on Edit Profile (under Other Settings on right side of screen)
     4)  Fill in phone number under Required Settings
     5)  Save
 

https://rvparts.visonerv.com/

Read the thread above.   Many good suggestions.   The magnet worked for me.

My phone has 877-466-6226.  I haven't tried it for a very long time.

Good question.  Following.

I just went through this exercise.  Many good suggestions here https://www.monacoers.org/topic/4867-grey-water-stench/#comment-45173

Good luck,