Grey water stench

[bklaes]

It started minor but now it's unbearable.  

Both tanks are dumped, work a few gallons of fresh water added.   

Three new Studor air admittance valves installed.  All the sinks have water in the traps. So does the shower and washer dryer.

I'm getting whiffs outside the coach on the passenger side, but not inside the bays.

Hoping to control the smells, I treated both tanks with chemicals which I have never done and never needed to in 7 years.  Didn't help.

I read on a prior post there is a valve on the top of the black tank for the tank flush sprayer.  I don't know where to start to look for it on my 05 diplomat.

Anybody got anything?  

 

[Rick A]

There is a side panel to the left of the hot water tank panel. You have to get down and remove 2 bolts that secure it. Once those boots are removed you can pull the park up because it’s hinged. All the tanks are there and you’ll see the tank cleaner spray on the top on the left hand tank, 

[Dr4Film]

Are you referring to the Anti-Syphon Vacuum Check Valve which is on the cold water supply line to the Black Tank Flush mounted on the side of the Black Tank?

It is generally found under one of the vanities in the bathroom.

It will look like the attached photo.

I highly doubt that you would get ANY odors from this valve especially if it is not leaking.

[jevans9509]

Best stuff ever.

https://www.amazon.com/Happy-Campers-Organic-Holding-Treatment/dp/B007S0LDME/ref=asc_df_B007S0LDME/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312094794632&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3860957124828601841&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012578&hvtargid=pla-493704281005&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=60223452937&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312094794632&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3860957124828601841&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012578&hvtargid=pla-493704281005

[Tom Cherry]

49 minutes ago, bklaes said:

It started minor but now it's unbearable.  

Both tanks are dumped, work a few gallons of fresh water added.   

Three new Studor air admittance valves installed.  All the sinks have water in the traps. So does the shower and washer dryer.

I'm getting whiffs outside the coach on the passenger side, but not inside the bays.

Hoping to control the smells, I treated both tanks with chemicals which I have never done and never needed to in 7 years.  Didn't help.

I read on a prior post there is a valve on the top of the black tank for the tank flush sprayer.  I don't know where to start to look for it on my 05 diplomat.

Anybody got anything?  

 

Shotgun.  I regularly use Happy Camper.  Never a smell.  Just a suggestion.  The gray tank will go “septic” as fresh food scraps from dishwashing, especially in the summer if your DW gets healthy and you eat a bulky diet.  Meat and fish and poultry tidbits love to go septic.  My wife wipes or scrapes the dishes as I have a clear elbow on my inlet to the Sanicon so I know that you get a “whitish’ stream of particulate coming out when the gray finally empties.

Why NOW?  Who knows and there are more theories than the JFK shooter…if that means anything.

Personally, as a former Chemical Process Engineer.  If the odor is that bad….big GUN.  I would put about a cup or  of Bleach and maybe 2 OZ of Dawn liquid dish detergent into a cup.  Mix.  Fill each tank half to 3/4.  Dump in most of the  mix, but save enough for a smidge in the traps.  Run an ounce or two into the traps…don’t flush  them. Add maybe a few gallons of water to each trap.    Drive it maybe 25 - 50 miles.  Let it set for a day…or even a few.  Dump the tanks.  Flush.  Bring in a garden hose and then almost “power flush” the tanks.

NOW….I never was smart enough to realize this,  after you dump, the put in 2-3 gallons of water into each and treat with Happy Camper.  In storage, having liquid in there promotes the biological destruction of any left over organic material.  I NOW DO THAT.  I ONLY drain and don’t refill when I winterize, but I always have some RV ANTIFREEZE in the tanks.

my solution….others have other idea and opinions.

[vito.a]

On ours, the black tank flush valve is on the passenger side of the black tank.  It's held onto the tank with three screws and some sealant.  

[bklaes]

57 minutes ago, jevans9509 said:

Best stuff ever.    /Happy-Campers-

On order.  Arriving tomorrow.

48 minutes ago, vito.a said:

On ours, the black tank flush valve is on the passenger side of the black tank.  It's held onto the tank with three screws and some sealant.  

I'll open the panel and see if mine is still intact.  Thanks for the pic.  After seeing it though, I don' suspect this is the culprit.

50 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Shotgun.  ...

my solution….others have other idea and opinions.

I'm breaking out all the heavy artillery.

1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

I highly doubt that you would get ANY odors from this valve especially if it is not leaking.

 

I didn't know it existed.  But something somewhere is leaking.

[Ranger Rick]

Just a thought, check and make sure the vent pipe to the roof is securely attached to the black water tank. Had that happened to me years ago.

[sailorp40]

I had a similar experience and it turned out to be my chassis battery severelly out gassing. Might want to check it out 

Hope this helps 

George Brennan 

2005 Dynasty Diamond IV

 

[Bill C]

Do you have a washing machine? If so, there is an check valve that keeps odors from coming back from the grey tank. If it is not working properly you will get bad odor from where the check valve is (usually behind the washer).

[Tom Wallis]

I think all of these suggestions are good. I've found found that if a gray water tank goes "septic" as Tom Cherry said, they can actually smell worse than the black water tank.

One other thing I found helpful is the 360 siphon vent cap. I helps create a negative pressure in the tanks so the fumes only go out the vent on the roof.

https://smile.amazon.com/Lippert-Components-389381-Siphon-Roof/dp/B01CZQ9Y6M/ref=sr_1_3?crid=303GD291A3SXC&keywords=360+siphon+vent+for+rv&qid=1659565878&sprefix=360+syph%2Caps%2C287&sr=8-3

[Tom Cherry]

7 hours ago, vito.a said:

On ours, the black tank flush valve is on the passenger side of the black tank.  It's held onto the tank with three screws and some sealant.  

One word of CAUTION. It is GOOD that you can see the actual fitting and remove it.  Some of us ain't that lucky and it would take two men and a boy and a day to get off the idiotic panel.

MY SUGGESTION. Buy a NICE quarter Turn Hose valve. Amazon has some upper ends...that have BIGGER orifices. Then put a washing machine hose or a similar SHORT hose onto the fitting. Then put the Quarter Turn valve on the end. SO, you always have a hose handy to hook up. BUT, the important thing.  Inside the valve or one the fitting or inside the connection to the hose, put in a Washing Machine Filter Washer.  I always try to flush a hose at home.  BEFORE I use it for back flushing.  OPPS....didn't.  The filter saved me. So, if you have a "gray/black" piece of utility hose like a carry, unless you connect the ends every times, bugs and ants and whatever can get inside it. It is a LOT easier to clean a filter screen on the hose connection to the backflush valve than to tear it off.

AND....the benefit.  You have an ON/OFF valve to turn on and off the back flush as needed. Just works for me....

[Grampy OG]

I had a similar odor (inside and OUT). After replacing all of the under sink air admittance valves I was at Witts end. Quite by accident and with the help of a hand held mirror I was able to see where the black pipe (drain) going into the top of my gray tank had slightly separated/cracked. The ultimate fix was more time consuming than I would have imagined but at the end of the day (and two years) no odors. 

I believe because of the location of the crack the final solution was several wraps of Flex Seal tape and then generously coated with Flex Seal paint on goop over the tape. 

Ken

 

 

[bklaes]

2 hours ago, Grampy OG said:

Quite by accident and with the help of a hand held mirror I was able to see where the black pipe (drain) going into the top of my gray tank had slightly separated/cracked.

This makes sense, as my jacks are unusually WAY extended for my unlevel spot.  I considered I might have broke something.  Were you able to locate the crack from the top or the bottom of the tank?  Did you make the repair from the top or the bottom?

[Tom Cherry]

3 hours ago, Grampy OG said:

I had a similar odor (inside and OUT). After replacing all of the under sink air admittance valves I was at Witts end. Quite by accident and with the help of a hand held mirror I was able to see where the black pipe (drain) going into the top of my gray tank had slightly separated/cracked. The ultimate fix was more time consuming than I would have imagined but at the end of the day (and two years) no odors. 

I believe because of the location of the crack the final solution was several wraps of Flex Seal tape and then generously coated with Flex Seal paint on goop over the tape. 

Ken

 

 

JB WELD CLEAR will work like a charm.  It has enough gel like consistency.  I have used it on buried pressure irrigation lines where a “T” has a crack and did not want to dig a cavity.  If the fitting is pulled a smidge, a piece of fiberglass cloth works well and the JB WELD can be used as the resin.  

[Grampy OG]

8 hours ago, bklaes said:

This makes sense, as my jacks are unusually WAY extended for my unlevel spot.  I considered I might have broke something.  Were you able to locate the crack from the top or the bottom of the tank?  Did you make the repair from the top or the bottom?

I have a compartment that only reveals the side of the 3 tanks. Lucky for me the gray tank and the pipes and the cracked pipe were on the top. I reached around with the mirror and could see the crack. My fix worked but I sure like Tom Cherry's idea as well. The tough part was getting the brush/goop and enough of it on the backside of the pipe while holding the mirror at the same time. Of course I think all of us here are part contortionist. Why tough? Because of course there were two pipes an inch or so apart to thread the tape through. 

If I wasn't smelling it outside I might never have looked in that spot. 

Happy Sniffing

Ken

 

7 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

JB WELD CLEAR will work like a charm.  It has enough gel like consistency.  I have used it on buried pressure irrigation lines where a “T” has a crack and did not want to dig a cavity.  If the fitting is pulled a smidge, a piece of fiberglass cloth works well and the JB WELD can be used as the resin.  

I wasn't aware of that product but I think I will pick some up. 

Thanks

Ken

 

[bklaes]

Thanks for all the suggestions.  I implemented just about all of them.   The biggest solution though, was retracting the jacks and driving back to my level garage.   The smell eventually dissipated.   

I opened the bay behind the hot water heater to see the drain pipes going into the tanks.  The entry points are sealed with pliable putty.  I think, having the jacks extended beyond normal (a front wheel was an inch off the ground) the chassis was torqued in such a way that the pipe pulled away from the holding tank(s) and lost its seal with the pliable putty.   I could see what might have been a crack in the putty.   I pushed the putty back into place to reassure a seal, and plan to coat the putty with spray flex seal.

[Dr4Film]

You should also plan NOT to take any unlevel site that requires you to have your wheels off of the ground.

If the site they assigned to you is not level, request a different one.

You risk not only having to deal with bad odors but also the possibility of cracking your windshield.

[bklaes]

38 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

If the site they assigned to you is not level, request a different one.

Yes, but I was not at a campground.   It was parked at my daughter's house, while my 2nd daughter and family were in the states on furlough from being full-time missionaries in the Dominican Republic.   My plan was to let them live in it for a few weeks, but the smell drove them out!