Tom Cherry

Yes, Don did that and the OEM folks and he decided NOT to replace it. The original design of this switch always had a "60 Hertz" buzz or hum. NEW or after awhile. Don's started making a LOUDER noise...so he worked with ESCO and made the call. I would not guarantee, based on reading what folks have posted that tightening will fix it....nor will putting in a new one. It was not exactly a design defect...but sort of an unintended consequence. BUT, the 65N is very robust....and if you don't sleep over it....then it does not bother you...or if you have a severe hearing impairment and don't, of course, wear your devices at night....it doesn't bother folks. A few, I think, actually say it works as "White Noise" Totally agree with your logic and such...but the characteristics of it and this spans over 20 years does not always "fix it", for some, like NEW or out of the box...it did it. Thanks for the insight...

I am NOT an expert...but many folks at our gathering are well informed and have worked on their systems. The way that the systems are "SUPPOSED" to work... and getting adequate heat is the common complaint.... When you want MAX HEAT, you turn the control to MAX AC. You rotate the temperature Valve to MAX HEAT. That activates or causes the control on the water valve to close the valve. We recently had a Valve issue and the member contacted the system vendor and found out that the controller was bad. There was a plastic gear inside and the teeth were stripped. It was FINE in the heat zone....but would NOT turn off. It actually made a clicking sound and you could hear the controller cycling....trying to complete the FULLY OFF command. You MIGHT have someone slowly rotate the COOLING or Temp knob and make sure that the heater control valve is functioning. I know this works this way....as I complained for years...but then knowledgeable folks explained it and BINGO...I have have great heat in the colder temps while driving. Here is a link to the recent threads. They might give you some insight... You can use a key word or word....like Heater or Heater Valve or Hot Water Control. THEN click on EVERYWHERE and choose TOPICS. That will give you a list of all the posts....you then skim and start reading and focusing on the ones that address or discuss your problem...

The Guardian Plates (or that name) are only manufactured by Talin. Chris Throgmartin is the owner and member here. I have included him in this post so that he is aware of the issue.... They are specifically designed to take care of the moisture infiltration as well as "refurbish" the under layer of the slide where it contacts the rollers. Chris spent many years experimenting and many of us beta tested or provided feedback as they were being developed and improved. Many shops have alternatives, I'm sure...but most are thin aluminum plates. Some shops actually installed the "Trim Plates" that you see on residential doors. Just putting a plate on the bottom does NOT correct the deficiency in the side seam and interface of the panels. USUALLY, it is water infiltration here that causes the damage...and that water deterioration is very expensive to repair as the floor is a "foam sandwich". It is NOT like floor joist system in a home or a studded wall. The best insurance against costly repairs is to fix, as they should have been from day one, the seams on the side walls. YES, some of us have had some scarifying or damage to the lower underlayment...which is barely 3/16" and has an almost micro plastic laminate coating. BUT, the real benefit is that there will never be any water infiltration at the side seams. Yes... I have installed three sets of them....each in a different style of slide...and I understand a bit about the issue... Chris @throgmartin FYI as to some concerns. Thanks....

SOME of the better ATS with Surge will give you an ERROR code. You will have to get the EXACT PN or Model from the ATS....IF you believe it is a Surge Style. Call the manufacturer and test. Richard is correct. I rarely have had a Surge fail...but several of the ones that I put in our church have bit the dust as the power is crappy and there are often line surges. BUT, I recently DID have a Surge fail. I use a Bekin (Belkin?) Cube Surge on EVERY Item in the home that has a digital display....save the TV's and Computers on a LARGE USPS unit. The one on the Kitchen Microwave DIED....Wife PANICKED. It was the SURGE and the TWO Green Lights...."Shone no more". Simple....the MOV's died. We have had a few owners with the more advanced SurgeGuard ATS, from say 2006 (Dynasty) and up that got error messages. They WERE electronically inclined. They removed the old MOV (Looks like a capacitor....memory says) and then installed new ones. ALL IS WELL. My only advice... I had the OEM SurgeGuard Pedestal model in 2006. It was the STATE of the ART. NOT CHEAP. I started or joined here in early 2009....and in a few years was asked to moderate...and have been doing that eversince. I read ALL the information on the SG. It did NOT have any "warning" light. Coincidentally, I became acquainted, locally, with Tommy Fannelli... He was the TOP or Chief Field Rep for TRC/SurgeGuard and BOY....was he getting an earful at show and rallies. The units were not exactly RELIABLE. The MOV's were dead. SO....NADA. You COULD send it back...and then, if they could repair it....pay 50% of the cost of a new one....if it was OK, you paid a Shop Charge. Tommy's brother was an EE. They designed (probably did a little copying) and then came out with the Progressive Industries products. That was the MOST advanced Surge unit on the market and there was a BUILT IN ONE. I scoffed until I started looking at the specs. I had actually "HARD WIRED" mine and installed in inside the bay....as I got tired of locking the sucker up every time...and some pedestals were so low, it would not "mount or sit" vertically as required. Then, I but the bullet. NIGHT AND DAY. I have the ORIGINAL one. Tommy sent me a few BETA boards to test some new features. Eventually, I got the latest "WE SELL THIS" board now. It has saved me more times than I can recall....especially when the Bay Door (mine swing out) opened up....only on the power of the gas strut. That little tap hit the power plug. NO NEUTRAL. I troubleshot the entire MH and finally....got out the BIG WIRE cutters. Put on the Camco REPLACEMENT. All is well. I have moved at least 20 times when the power was too low. Not many of the CG or the folks that are maintenance have an electrical background. They say.... your rig must have one of them stupid meters that is always wrong. BUT, then I move...one guy said... You know..we're getting a LOT more of these complains....but when I move folks to the new section that was wired up last year....that goes away. HONEST to whomever you trust....he said that. So, as long as you have a Suppressor and you have read the manual or called the manufacturer and know if there is an "ERROR" or some lights that will come on when the electronics are shot or the MOV's are dead....you are good to go. BUT, failing to do that, then the Progressive or another, trusted brand, that displays error codes or lights is what I would install and not have all the redundancy. There are SOME manufactuers that state, unequivally, that having an TWO Surge Suppressors, one plugged into the other, actually DEFEATS their ability to function. That is what Progressive said....NO INTERNAL surge suppressors are NEEDED if you have their pedestal or hard wired model. That's a much as I can tell you. Hope this helps...

OK….THINK OUT OF THE BOX…. Do you have a TRC SurgeGuard ATS (kind with Surge Suppression)? If so….the MOV’s may be suspect. If a NON Surge Protection ATS….AND NO Surge Suppressor?.?. Then, I’d consider a Progressive HW50C. It has your “gauges”…..but it also protects your electrical devices from about 10 or so “fatal or semifatal” conditions…..the ugly one is an OPEN NEUTRAL. We have had maybe 100 - 150 plus incidents over the years. Most were pedestal issues, but many were internal….simple thing like a small “tap” to the 50A molded plug that opened the Neutral. YES…happened to me. You then can measure 150-175 VAC on BOTH sides (L1 & L2) of the two 120VAC lines. UGLY does it an injustice describe. YES….adding the current taps will solve your original problem. But if you do NOT have Surge protection…..and if you have the TRC, then you may have to “fix” it. The Progressive, and now current “knock offs” was the FIRST unit designed for plug in or hardwired….with FIELD Serviceable “boards”. Plug and play and you have error codes. Just a thought….you’ll spend less time installing a GOOD surge protector and get the benefits. BTW…an open neutral typically, if not caught, do upwards of $1000 damage….and one member topped $10,000. The TV and electronics….like the Microwave do NOT tolerate 150-175 VAC LONG. Also the AC motors do not like it…. Your MH….Your situation….but also some background on the most expensive and common “failure”…

I ain’t no tech…but I did frequent the “Weller” plant as it was in my division and I had responsibilities for many functions there. Got to know the designers. A Weller low wattage soldering station is your friend. They kept giving me the newest model to use at home and critique. I’d start with the Capacitors…..they die first. I fixed more “DEAD” LED TV’s than I can remember buy using an eBay kit and replacing all of them. DEWICKING mesh is your friend…. Then check the resistors….but typically they will “tell” you. Good Luck. If you fix it…write it up….pictures and such. We’ll put in the files,…

Is it the LPT50BRD? Good deal….it is a low voltage switch. Great reliability…..the most commonly stocked one….

Odds are, from your post, without pulling the prints…..but doing a search here, you have an AIR OPERATED step well cover. There is a solenoid located near the middle or front cover. Not exactly sure….but keep reading Go to this topic https://www.monacoers.org/topic/5744-2005-scepter-step-cover-wont-extend-or-retract/ Read DaveyJo’s @daveyjo first post…..same issue as you. Then scroll down and read the two posts in the screen shot. PROBABLY a defective solenoid. The second post by Jim @jacwjames after it has a PDF on the valve. Click on it. That is the valve you are looking for. DaveyJo got it working. You might pull it off….use a 12 VDC source and cycle it a few times. NOW, the earlier Windsor’s were notorious for hydraulic valves issues. YES….this is air. But Monaco LOVED Teflon tape….if over the years an upstream chard worked its way down….bingo. Probably clean the valve. You can use a tiny shot of WD-40 (not the Silicone formula) or a smidge of a good contact cleaner to exercise the valve and get any debris out. Use your front air chuck with a hose and a “hand nozzle” and blow it out when open as well as close. Then, reinstall. The click indicates the coil is getting voltage….so, don’t go hunting for a wiring issue….mechanical in either a defective or clogged solenoid. You can always PM Jim or Dave and they can help you locate the solenoid. Good Luck….NOW…a Favor. Shoot a picture of where the solenoid is….and post it. Will help the next member. Keep us posted.

Great….one word of caution. There are “plumbing” brass fittings and DOT Approved Air Systems brass fittings. Most folks buy the fittings at a Truck Supply house and they are higher pressure DOT approved. You can, from time to time, find air and plumbing fittings at Lowes or a hardware store. Just be aware that the MH came with all High Pressure DOT approved fittings…. Temporary in the field….use them, long range….put back in the DOT approved ones….

I don’t remember which bank starts your Genny…. I THINK…. The House. If your work around is enough…great… BUT…the proverbial “teaching” moment…..is at hand.. You can, eventually, trouble shoot thusly…..and this is real world. First…you will need a helper and a VOM and probably a 50 ft or so length of #16 or #14 hookup wire with alligator clips on both ends. Helps to have both probe leads and alligator clip leads on the meter. Shinny under and hook up or hold the meter leads on the rear terminals of the Genny. Measure the voltage and record. Then, have your helper try to start the Genny. OK….repeat….except have then hold on the boost. Measure the voltage….then crank and note the voltage while cranking. ODDS ARE….you are gonna see WHY it will not start. That means….a bad cable or a bad switch (House Bank) or a bad connection. NOW….go back to the batteries. Again….measure the House….then have the helper try to crank the Genny. Record the voltages . Now repeat and have them hold on the boost. IF the House drops close to what you measured up front with the HOUSE only….time for new batteries. BUT if the House was 12.7 or so and hardly any difference with the boost ….then a down stream issue. Where…..hard to find…but you LEARN A LOT. If your disconnect switch kills the House battery…..then….go there. Measure each stud to a GOOD ground (you can run the hookup wire to the negative on the house bank). Should be less than 0.1 - 0.2 VDC if that much in the readings, NOW….put the leads across the terminals. NOW crank the genny. IF you get more than 0.1-0.2 VDC….bad switch. What is happening is there is a contact issue or high resistance in the switch. Since the house load is way less….you don’t NOTICE it. BUT it must be replaced. If you have electric motor or hydraulic motor slides, the bad switch is damaging the motors. The voltage there will drop or be low, under load, just like the genny. This causes the amperage to increase, exponentially…..and the motor will even fail. TRUST ME….this happened. My FIRST issue was a bad ground. But I eventually found out, after replacing the entire hydraulic pump package….the bad switch. Mine would work great….drive 1000 miles….great. Drive a mile….voltage drop. When I replaced the pump, I out in a selector switch and then put the hydraulic on the chassis, Just a few years ago, I discovered the bad switch…caught it when it was in the failure mode. Past that….what you then need to do….you measure the voltage across a set or terminals….or a cable…. Then start the genny. When you find a big voltage drop….then you fix or replace the connections or the cable. We have had folks that has an internally corroded cable. LOOKED GREAT…but it had a voltage drop…from end to end….under load. New cable….fixed. Cut old apart….found the wires “gone” or corroded…. It happens. Tedious process….but it works….and is the ONLY way to chase and troubleshoot…. Good Luck…

Good deal. ESCO may “advise” repairing, which is simple for almost anyone to do. They may determine that the parts or the age of the switch do not make it “cost effective”. In the past, after many back and forth sessions with the ESCO techs…including a couple of hours with their chief Design Engineer, they usually recommend, like when folks had the ill fated IOTA, that you install the LPT50BRD. Now, that was a while back…. But they do or did warn that if the “65N” was purchased instead that it “would/might/will” hum. How loud and how annoying….location and hearing of the occupants and such varies. To date…..as in over 15 years, only a few of the 65N were used for an IOTA replacement …and there was one or two that said….”gee, wish I had known that”. So that is the caveat…that many don’t know. ESCO will help you…and many, especially the early members of the Yahoo group really LIKED that model….even though it was only used a few years…..then Monaco switched to the IOTA on the lower end and the TRC Surgeguard…with a proprietary interface with the Aladdin, on the upper ends…. Now, you know “the rest of the story”….

Ben…. First…. Your system, which is the same as mine, works as you described….. and that is normal. And the only issue that I expect is to clean the Big Boy. I actually carry a spare. So….that is the way, in “theory”, that the Intellitec system was designed to work. As an aside, our Big Boy “sees” less than half the voltage….so when it gets hot and hums….it is totally different from the Dynasty or the system in Al’s Patriot thunder. His Big Boy will be more than HOT….you usually can’t keep your hand on it as it is HOT..not warm. And it is twice as loud when engaged or the HUM is pronounced. That is the way that Intellitec designed BOTH systems….and is normal…..lots of folks are not aware of this… But…if you go back and read Al’s post about his Patriot Thunder (basically same as any 05/06 Dynasty and up, @amphi_sc does not have “our” system. He has a dedicated #6 PCB for charging and boost and maybe one other function. His is not working, it appears, like it was designed. In theory….from a concept, the two systems should function the same. But in reality, his system is radically different and more complex than ours and Frank and Paul are two, perhaps we have others, of the best here, as well as in the country, that can repair the “out of production” board and reprogram it. It is simple for them as they have the “rig” to test…but when they replace the chip, which is probably 90% of the failures, they have to reprogram the new chip….sort of like reformatting the hard drive on a computer and installing a new OS. From experience, after a lot of “educatin” by Frank, I know how it works….and can assist in determining whether it is a board or Big Boy issue…but then hand off to someone else if it is a defective board. You probably already know this, but your comment provided a post to explain it so others with our system or the newer Dynasty can understand the differences. Thanks….

Kevin, The title was changed as many folks were asking questions and thinking or wondering about Kongsberg. The title change was preemptive to keep it focused However, it has been edited back to the original title with a tag line regarding CCM. We have numerous issues with folks NOT fully understanding specifically what you were talking about and then wandering off track. Frank very succinctly answered your question. Since he does not “promote” what he and Paul Whittle do, we often provide more information….sometimes for the OP and sometimes for the group following it so thy will learn as well. Frank also posted an explanation to provide clarity. In one of your subsequent posts, you commented on finding boards. These boards are rare and becoming rarer. The #6 board in the Rear Run controls the BIRD (BiDirectional) charging system. That board, since it is in use while driving or in storage, with power, is, I think, the most common failure. Frank and Paul repair these boards all the time. FWIW, going deeper, the #6 board is not a “just pop in a new chip”. After the chip is installed, it has to be reprogrammed and both Frank and Paul have the ability as well as the “setup” and the software to do that. Your call on buying boards…but be aware, the boards you buy probably have not been tested as very few folks can do that… Again, we have the two best resources, in my opinion, to repair ANY of the boards, in the country here. Your call on spares or such, but unless you arrange for a testing and return, you might be buying something defective… We, the moderators, will have members post a problem and go down the wrong path….as in “maybe a Kongsberg”. That was, to us, evident. However, the first question asked was “Kongsberg”, so this post offered a “teaching” opportunity so more folks would be knowledgeable. That’s it. This is often done. Typically, when a 2009 unit has issues, the title is edited to call out the K’B CCM. We also prefer a member’s signature include a CCM tag line so we know instantly if his year, which did include some 2008’s, was a CCM. That’s the logic….Sorry if it was confusing….you now, along with others, have a little more “Monaco” background…. Welcome aboard

You have the “Sherman Tank” of the ESCO ATS. Was used extensively. But, the main complaint was AC HUM and noise, Two AC coil relays. Hum is what it did….when new. Drove wives crazy…..and many complained. ESCO bought the LYGHT LPT50BRD. That is more popular due to the which is a low voltage, not 120 VAC line voltage model. Call ESCO. They still stock the parts and you can order it from them. Due to the age, we do not, I think, have the manual or Parts List. However, the ESCO tech support is great..one of best.

@Frank McElroy PM Him. If the three chips are standard and NOT programmed, he is a whiz at troubleshooting boards. This is not a complex board…. or perhaps @pwhittle. These guys can fix the Intellitec boards for the Dynasties…. All they can say is NO. Also contact Dinosaur Board. They do a lot of refurbishment….. Have you called NorthWest RV Supply and asked them?

Have you googled PDXRVWHOLESALE.com? They list parts for the SCS HVAC UNITS

Is that from SEA or a local vendor. The glass, has to be cut and then shipped to a distributor that can heat treat or temper it properly. For those that are unaware, when a piece of “tempered glass” BREAKS….a GaZillion piece of glass or beads. WHY? Safety. If you pop of the outside panes on the driver’s windows or a piece of an OEM Boat (runabout or big cruiser), it totally shatters and doesn’t impale you. SOLUTION… find a supplier, locally, that can cut “dual pane….laminated windshield glass”. Has to be the same thickness….which might be a problem. Done all time for side glasses…..as it is HARD to get an OEM replacement panel… OTHER SOLUTION….put in a Plexiglass panel. Use Double thickness…..might have to Laminate with a heavy duty double sided clear tape. If slightly thinner, use double stick tape to shim out where the frame is. Done ALL the time on boats. Eventually will have some UV haze… but WAY thicker. Sometimes a panel is “bowed” or has a slight twist. Had a boat windshield….looked perfectly flat. NOPE. My glass guy put in two exact temoered fit panes….when he tightened up the frame so the glass would swing out and latch….the stress shattered it. Plexiglass to the rescue…. My Plexiglass cost $50….a NEW panel, just the glass, from the boat builder…$450….

I would do a dual search. First, SEA is one of the top vendors still in business and has real customer service. TRAICO is the name of their parts guy (pronounced Tri-Co). He has been great. Second, YES….check out a local vendor. Don’t know what type of glass and such. BUT if you are disassembling, then be prepared to be a big spender and replacing any hardware with signs of wear over the years….

Depends on the "Failure". SS ain't the end all to end all. It has limitations. I have had the larger 3/16" SS Pop Rivets fail on the slide side wall. Even SS has a tensile strength limit. IF SS Drill Screws, and I don't know if they were or if someone replaced them...they will be slightly softer and easier to drill than a hardened Drill Point (commonly used by Monaco assemblers).

My advice….PM @Frank McElroy. He is the expert. You should set your battery type to the proper configuration. There is a file ….use Magnum as the key word in the search box. Then click on everywhere and select FILES. I wrote it as an aid. You can also call Magnum. Frank will have to address the strange behavior, but I, the slightly informed novice, think you have an issue with the board. MOST Big Boy coils, I THOUGHT, hum and or get hot….most of the time…

BEN….a definite NO NO. Read the manual for your system. We have the NON FULL 12 VDC Big Boy. There is a device on the swing out door in the rear run bay (the one with the knobs). It is a Intellitec BIRD Diesel2 module. It senses the voltages on each bank. It then controls the Big Boy. It sends out “Pulsed” voltage. Measure it….it will be 3 - 4 VDC. But, if you put it on a “scope”, it is a PURE 12VDC. But the length of the Pulse or the time ON is only 1/3 or about 3 - 4 VOLTS, averaged. BUT, if you push or HOLD the BOOST switch, there is a signal sent to the relay that drives the Big Boy and you get a FULL 12 VDC. Hold that down for maybe 5 minutes or shorter….Heat builds UP. Fries the coil. The specs on the Big Boy list CONTINUOUS current or full 12 VDC for maybe 30 seconds….don’t hold me to a precise number….the manual warns you. BUT, when the BIRD D2 Module kicks in….INSTANTANEOUS 12 VDC….that locks in the coil. Then after, say a second or so, it drops back and then the control circuit is the Pulsed voltage. You do NOT have the board (#6) on a 05/06 Dynasty and above that this post is about. NOW…..there were….on older models…..a 100A Big Boy. OK to have full 12 VDC. There were other “types”, misidentified as a “Big Boy” (Trombetta and White Rogers and others) that WERE full 12 VDC rated. The PURPOSE of this response is to WARN FOLKS. Never EVER put a stupid Golf TEE under a later model Monaco boost switch……you’ll damage the 200A Big Boy and/or “COOK” your Chassis Battery….when you are ON AC or GENNY. Thanks for bringing it up so we can get the word out….AGAIN….

Ask….and ye shall receive. There are all sorts of “thingies” that the car boys are putting on. There is USUALLY a high current fuse on the positive. I always carry a spare in every vehicle. NOW….this device is basically….a sophisticated “Battery temp sensor” with a “amp meter” probe….and a “bonus”….Voltage sensor. Critcial to the voltage regulation of your alternator…..it goes bad….you COOK your battery…. You can google it and there is a LOT of info, some wrong…LOL, about it and what all it does….

From a person that was the Chief Engineer for a Fastener company a d we designed and developed a variety of the infamous “Drill Scews” most likely used. Also this applies to some high performance self tapping screws. The material used in common bolts (grade 2) is garden variety. The heat treatment is simple. When you get into a “Tapping” screw, where the threads form or make threads in the material, there is a different grade used and the heat treatment is different. The case or the exterior portion of the screw that is “specially hardened” is around 0.008” (EIGHT thousand’s of an inch). The drill points are more… Thus, the exterior deforms the material that the screw is driven into. BUT….that Screw is BRITTLE as in would snap. The second part of the process is to draw down or decrease the brittleness in the interior or core. There is a second furnace used. It has a lower temperature than the first “hardening” furnace. The core is the. More ductile or is not brittle. BUT that sucker ain’t like a un hardened or soft bolt….NOW SS bolts are harder. So, you need a special CARBIDE TIPPED bit. A titanium coated bit, usually, ain’t gonna do squat. NOW….you have to go to a larger size screw….if you drill it out, most folks use a larger bit. OPPS…now the hole is too large. Many folks here have great experience. If you use a smaller carbide tipped drill and a lubricant….you MIGHT drill it and then put an “Easy Out” in it… There are blind, threaded flat rivets that you can buy on Amazon and they work great. Folks have used SS Pop Rivets. Just be aware, drilling out an Aluminum pop rivet is child’s play compared to a comparable sized SS one.

First, lets set the record straight. You are “mixing” things and its better for those reading this to understand the whole story. There is, I think, a file or two that goes into detail. Circa 2005 or so, Monaco “updated” ALL DYNASTY and above to TWO DIFFERENT “Intellitec” systems. The first….and which Frank alluded to, as well as the OP’s question is in the Front and Rear RUN BAYS. Don’t hold me to the numbers, someone needs to count….and it IS on the drawings, There are about 13 or so Front RUN Bay boards. There are about 8 or so Rear RUN bay boards. These are the BOARDS IN QUESTION. @Frank McElroy and @pwhittle are members that can, at a much lower “tip”, analyze and replace chips and reprogram these. In some cases, they also can “fix” a board that has a shorted out (OPEN) copper trace or the strips on the bottom. There is one other source, but their prices and credibility and quality has been called into question by some members as well as field techs who diagnose and isolate a board and ship it to them. We are FORTUNATE to have this resource here. Continuing…..the “upgrade” circa 2005/6 was “sporadic” at best. We have owners of 2005 Executives that have the ORIGINAL, Non Intellitec MH as wells as owners that DO. Supposedly, the higher ends were done first…then down the food chain. The RULE of thumb was that the Dynasty was a 2006 upgrade. BUT Monaco published TWO different manuals in 2005 for them. BOTTOM LINE…we have to ASK or have a member post pictures of the Front or Rear to determine which system….and, unfortunately, many responses or advice from the NON Intellitec owners is given to Intellitec owners…. Then the member with the problem is totally confused and frustrated as the component or circuit or whatever they are told to find….AIN’T IN THEIR MH. Moving along. The INTERIOR Intellitec Multiplexed Lighting and lighted key pads and Central Processing Unit and the “output modules” were also included…. The circuit boards in question here are NOT MULTIPLEXED….they are funky with all sorts of lights and test buttons and such….but they send out conventional Analog (12 VDC signals). OK….take a deep breath…..it gets WORSE. NOW…. You mentioned the infamous KONGSBERG CCM (Chassis Control Modules)that are in the FRONT RUN BAY. That eliminates the Intellitec boards….which is the issue. HOWVER..all but ONE of the Rear Intellitec Boards was also replaced. It is MY UNDERSTANDING, that only the #6 Intellitec Board in the REAR RUN bay was a “HOLDOVER” in the NEW (and improved?) CCM System. That, BTW, runs or controls the BIRD charging system and Boost and such… NOW….again, the inconsistency of Monaco comes out. SOME of the Dynasty in 2008, had a K’B CCM….a rare few….but out there. Supposedly, the SIG’s in 2008 WERE CCM. NOT ALWAYS TRUE. BUT, supposedly….all as in EVERY ONE of the 2009 models was CCM. Now….is this in concrete? NOPE. Sometimes an older model with “fall out” or be in a transition year and get “a next year model number”. So, we always ASK for photos to verify folk’s issues before we delve in….and hope that other contributing members understand the nuances …but unfortunately, many folks spend time hunting for something that is NOT on their MH, due to an inaccurate post. Sorry for the length….but sometimes a simple question has to be answered with “IT DEPENDS”…..Frank just posted with a comment….mine matches his and I just went into more detail and background….as this post can be used for information….

SORT OF A WHIMSICAL retort to the AUSSIE. I was at the NCAA Men Basketball Final Four in Phoenix a few weeks ago. We had a Jeep rental and were doing some sight seeing. My BIL was driving and is not exactly the most coordinated and he has difficulty in moving his head whilst driving... I do a LOT of praying when he is zipping downhill at 80 MPH and can't "see". He was in a hurry and handed me back our NP Golden Eagle Pass. He said here...and just dropped it. OPPS...I did not have time to grasp it. SO, it fell between the seat and the console. TOTALLY out of reach. I contrived a method of using duct tape (adhesive exposed) on a dowel to extricate it. We drove on and I caught up with a couple in a Class C. I conned them out of a foot of Gorilla Duct Tape. VERY NICE folks. They had just bought a used (26 years old) Caravan and Toad in Florida....and were driving back across the US and headed for California... The gentleman gave me a guided tour of the unit and how pristine it was. He then said that he had searched all over the US to find it. He went ON. As long as it was over 25 years OLD...it was considered as an ANTIQUE and NOT subject to import duties....which were unbelievable. As I understood it...these restrictions were set up by the Aussie government to encourage local manufacturing. SO, he could NOT afford to buy a newer Caravan in the US and import it as the cost would be prohibitive... We have NOT, to my knowledge, ever had an Aussie or a NZ'er post here. I DO know from a few trips to NZ and AU, the there are few, if any "NEW CARS". There is a trade agreement (or there was in 1995) that allowed older (2 -3 YO) Japanese (as in MADE IN JAPAN) cars to be imported with NO IMPORT fees. There was, said the economics professor that was our host, a tax on OLDER cars in Japan....so you had to sell or trade your car before it was, say 4 years or so old, otherwise there was a 25% tax....and then it escalated. Afterwards, I started looking at the cars.... ALL Japanese....very few German car brands. MAY NOT BE THE SAME NOW...but the RV Aussie owner, very astute and knowledgable.....gave me an ECON lesson in the Petrified Forest. BTW... I removed a plastic wand from the drapery in the hotel and "snuck" it out....but on the way to breakfast...it hit me. My old 4 finger "Tool Picker Upper" at home was shot. I bought a new one at O'Reilly's and extricated the credit card style pass in less than 15 seconds. I must have spent hours contemplating HOW to lift it up with various devices that I had on me. OK...back to fixing Monaco's here.... @96 EVO Ben, PLEASE TELL ME that you do NOT have an auxillary Chinese Diesel Heater in your Scepter... I worry about you... LOL...