Steve P

Maybe on the same GFCI circuit (controlled by one of the GFCI outlets - mine has one in the bathroom and another in the kitchen). If one resets but keeps popping (disconnecting), then replace the outlet. Also, using Search, specify files and search for: 2004 Endeavor wiring and you may find something to provide a clue.

My 2014 CR-V is front-wheel drive and the owners manual gives clear instructions on prep fo flat towing (somewhat different from above, but still simple enough a 5th grader could do it). I found mine searching RV trader and it was ready to go with the baseplate installed and tow bar included. Checked it out and good to go. Probably 7,000 miles of flat towing and another 15,000 of driving, all is well. Good luck in your search!

@Tom Cherry Wow! I appreciate you so much. I think you must be a walking parts catalog. Or the world's top Googler! In any case, thanks for coming thru again!!

Left side of the pic. It's cracked, connects by 2 wires (a blue and a white). Goes to a bundle and out of sight. Thought I'd check here before making a 30 mile trip to the nearest dealer.

@Dr4Film Richard - your use of a pressure washer without inducing leaks... how did you do that? I wish you had done a video. I thought the fins on the coil were also easily damaged, and that coil cleaner, a gentle brushing, and a low pressure rinse were the recommended norm. Your thoughts and experience are always informative and I look forward to an update when you land in NH. Thanks - Steve P

I would very much like to have your spare 1" hose... mine has pinholes

Might the telltale sign of a previous AFO installation be an air line and fitting near the trailer hitch?

We found the user manual equally confusing. We adopted a common sense approach. So we Level the coach first, then put out the slides to prevent twisting or stress. Sometimes we dump the air before we level. And sometimes we don't depending on the terrain. Our levelers are hydraulic by the way.

The thing that isn't shown clearly in the diagrams is that there are teeth or ears on the right end of the spring (#11) that engage with teeth or ears on the inside of the end cap (#6). The ones on my end cap were bent over and causing the spring to slip and lose tension. You could wind the spring the right number of turns, and install it in the end cap, and tighten everything down and it would seem just fine. A couple of cycles of slide extension and retraction later, the spring end would have jumped the ears on the end cap and have lost tension to the point that it wouldn't retract the topper. The crew at Talin RV in Brooksville (run by @throgmartin ) found this issue for me (great folks!) and put a new end cap on mine -- problem solved! Does yours have the center cover support (#8 in Detail A)? If so, that is another source of various issues (sagging, friction, bowing the roller tubes). It will need to be shaped correctly and secured with a stainless cotter pin (not shown) to support correct functioning when the roller tube is longer than 12' because it then has two sections that are sleeved and riveted. Carefree has a newer and better digram if you call them.

Anyone have real world experience with effective chemicals that won't remove or soften paint? I'm also about to embark on this project for all the film in mine. I know there is the Uglyshield solvent but I'm hoping for an off-the-shelf solution.

I've had my toppers apart multiple times for cleaning and replaced the tension spring in one of them. I don't recall a tension screw... I did have to replace an end cap that the teeth had bent and worn (the teeth engaging the roller tube gear). Do you have a diagram of yours to help us provide further insight?

They may rattle just as bad in the end cap. When working on the toppers, it's very handy... the threads keep me from accidently dropping the screws in the grass, gravel, or on the concrete, ehere they are certain to roll to the precise center of the coach.

IMHO - You don't need to use the pump if you are connected to an external water source (city water or campground or well), but a good water pressure regulator is a must. Just don't buy the junky Camco one. 50lbs is a good setting. The water pump is mainly for pumping from the water tank when traveling or boondocking.

I have a spare, purchased new from Veurinks, that I will never use. I will sell it for a reasonable offer including shipping. Send me a private message if interested.

@Gweedo This is on my to-do list (hose reel and macerator upgrade). Could you take lots of pics of the disassembly process for use as a reference by me and others? Mine looks like it will be tricky to get all the handles and switch covers and wires and other misc gear off to release the panel. Thanks in advance!