Tom Cherry

Remember….good ole Monaco never marked, at least on the folks I have helped, the fuse to the Control Boards or “AC Board/Panel as HVAC. Satellite…ceiling fan…you name it. Unfortunately on the Dynasty prints, you have to check mating connector prints and look for HVAC such…then….you start to trace that particular “PIN” or pins…once you find that print…then you follow that harness to where it mates up or is hooked up and then get the fuse number. NOW….that is true for Camelot’s and Dynasties. The Wire is easy to trace on the Camelot (and Diplomats and such), Dynasty uses the pin and connector logic and not a pure “schematic”. Older Dynasties and Windsors and such MAY have conventional schematics. There was two GROUPS or schools in Monaco….and you never knew WHICH “format” or convention or system that was used. For those like me that works with tracing a wire….my prints are fine. Others that understand the connectors and pin and how to trace find the Dynasty easy to work with….the Dynasty challenges me….but I am learning….

There are actually TWO versions of crimpers on Amazon. ONE is a full sized unit….it will work on #16 wires. The other is for “big stuff” like what we typically have with #9 through 4/0 cables & BIGGER!. You can do #10 with a nIce hand held RATCHETING crimper. Thats a whole lot MORE hand strength for anything larger. There is a chart that gives you the MM of the dies and usually the wire size. You select the wire size. Cut off the cable….carefully cut off the insulation. Then do a little tiding up to get all the itty bitty wires stuffed into the terminal….sometimes you trim off a few. You close the dies until the edges are mating…as in….the die set has NO Crack or opening between the halves. Done. Mine is 8 years old. Amazon dropped it. This one has over 2000 ratings. I use that as my buying guide. If I were an electrician or ran a welding supply shop, I’d buy a name brand…say Klein, I’d spend maybe 5 to 8 times as much. Don’t need that PRO level for what I do. I find the higher rated Amazon “stuff” to be more reliable and better made than “Harbor Freight”. NOT always the case….but for this particular tool, I followed the advice given off line and bought the highest rated crimper in that price range. Northern Tool may have them.

Richard, PM @Frank McElroy. He actually improved how his AGS was wired. He has a 2008 Dynasty. Wiring is identical. Monaco was NOT always the smartest. Our Camelots start the Genny from the HOUSE…Not like yours. As to Ben’s….they used a wrong harness (one for the DYNASTY) or someone was stupid or sloppy….

The new residential refrigerators will malfunction and shut down if the temperature outside drops into the low 30’s or so. When the conversion was done, ALL the insulation around the gas refrigerator or on the walls should have been removed. It was there to protect the interior from carbon monoxide poisoning…PRIMARY reason. You insulate the roof vent from the top. Use batts or whatever to close it off. You insulate the cover…cut foam wedges and use HVAC and Duct tape. You insulate the louvers in the frame…if there are open spaces. The insulation around the old gas unit kept you from loosing the heated for cooled air as well. Leaving the cover open and the vent (roof) open is like opening a window on one side and opening a window on the other…. Think about how that would impact the HVAC or furnace systems. The side walls and top and under the residential refrigerator needs AIR FLOW. That is why you do NOT need insulation. Many home refrigerators are next to a wall and have a cabinet on the other side. They work fine. This is the way that NOW, the OEM refrigerator comes from the factory. I had mine installed in the mountains of NC. The first night, it dropped to 28. Shut OFF. The Samsung “locks up” . It does NOT cool. Have to unplug…wait a few minutes….plug back in. A few hours later….OFF. Nursed it through the night. Worked fine during the day. Got home. Insulated the top (have a side vent…not a roof….same deal). Insulated the back lower vent. Called Samsung and they sent out a REAL FACTORY Samsung tech. He laughed. Folks put the newer Energy Star refrigerators on back porches or in garages. He says when it gets cold….they quit. Does about 10 them in the fall. That was 7 years ago. Have used the MH for about 6 months out….and in some cold temps….and heat. No issues. Now, if you want a freezer for the garage or back porch, you have to order an “all weather” or COLD weather model. Lowes in the mountains of NC always stock them. They are NOT the same as the normal freezers….price we pay for uograding the eddiciency. The compressors don’t run at extreme temps and are designed for INDOOR normal ambient temperatures. INSULATE….

You have dead Chassis Batteries. The Generator starts off the House. The steps work off the House. Read the manual. WitH Generator RUNNING….Hold on the BOOST switch for what the Manual says. You repeat this process. You need to put a surface charge on the Chassis. NO JOY using the Boost switch like the manual says…..look in the index. May be in section 9. IF you have a Booster or Jumper cable. You can jumper or connect the Positive HOUSE to the CHASSIS House. TURN OFF each battery bank switch with the battery disconnect switches. Hook up the jumper cable beware the positives. Turn ON BOTH Battery banks at the disconnect switches. Start the Generator. Let it run maybe 30 minutes. This is charging the Chassis. Then, with the generator RUNNING…..start the MH. Should start. Let it and generator run for maybe 30 minutes. Stop engine. Turn OFF BOTH Disconnects. Remove the jumper cable. You should be OK….and engine should start.

Great followups…..comment and history.. There are TWO AGS’s. The original 4 KNOB AGS was what came on my 2009 Camelot. That AGS, per Magnum, was not their best effort…. Mine died circa 2012. Magnum DID, for a brief time, offer a “Repair”. That repair was the replacement of a relay or “refurbishment” of the 4 Knob AGS. There was an “unofficial” extension of the warranty. The cost was, per the tech, around $75. However the demand exceeded the bench time of the warranty techs. It was eventually discontinued….so mine was “past” even the special circumstances. The issue was, 95%, a failed relay. And even if repaired….it MIGHT happen again. The techs and electronics designers conceded it was a bad design. SO…mine sat for a while. Eventually, I piggy backed it under extended warranty and got a new one, The tech told me that the NEW AGS-N had been tested….abused….and it was a solid device. Mine has been used sparingly, but works great. It is a Plug and Play and easy to install. Ben’s issue was a Monaco GOOF…and not Magnum. To put in perspective, there has NOT been a massive failure. Many folks are still using the 4 Knob AGS. It appeared to be somewhat sporadic….maybe a vendor’s lot that impacted a certain time period. BUT, Magnum realized they had “overtaxed” the 3 relay design…making it more susceptible to failure….and the new N was a totally different logic and circut and they eliminated the fatal flaw. That’s what I was told and I sort of “tried” on a few occasions to find a sympathetic tech and hoped he would let me use the “extended warranty” and the explanation was consistent…. OK….CONTACTS….many do not know that Magnum makes a “Auxiliary” start device or pigtail. You order it…overpriced…but $15. You unplug the thermocouple input into the AGS. Then, you select AUXILIARY and use that setup (remote). If you have a switch or a device that will close or make a circuit across the leads….same as the TEMP going up. That starts the AGS cycle. Once started, the programming parameter for RUN TIME is activated and it runs that length. NOW…..if the contacts are closed….still….after the run time has timed out…BINGO….cycle is repeated….the Genny restarts. I had a need to run the Genny during an idiotic split NON QUIET time schedule in a National Park. We left early….stayed late. I used a programmable 24/7 timer. The contacts would CLOSE or make the circuit at 9:00 and stay closed for 15 minutes. The genny would run for 2 hours. At 4:00….repeat….15 mintues of CLOSED got me 2 Hours of Genny. Nary a flaw. I plugged back in thd thermocouple….and still have the timer. That’s what I know and was told and also figured out HOW to accomplish my unusual need for genny….in a more or easier programmable manner. let us know if the older AGS is easy to fix. This was NOT a widespread issue…..so take it at face value from Magnum…

Comments on, I assume, the “Shoreline” reels, commonly used. NO POWER. Most of those issues were traced back to “operator error”. Primarily folks that spent time, a lot of it, in one location. If you pull out the cord and leave it in that position for several months, possibly load dependent, the contacts on the “power circles” or where each contact rubs, will arc and eventually cause a high resistance. Folks have solved this by routinely powering in the cord and then pulling it back out in a random location. If there was a shorting or intermittent issue, then, most will repeat the IN & OUT quickly maybe 5 or so times. The contacts (spring loaded) will burnish and sort of self clean the concentric circular copper/bronze contact rings. Drive mechanism issues. Somewhere in my brain, I remember that a machine shop or individual made a new drive gear. Googoing a bit….I ran across this. if the link breaks…EBAY. Shoreline parts. And you will find it, yes….expensive…but one has to decide how to fix. YES…removal is a PITA. It IS accessible, on the Camelots from inside the closet or the side wall. However, you must drop or raise the flex air intake hose (from the rear cap upper corner). Not that bad. You can also do the needed PM on the hose where most were nicked or had minor slits. A couple of rounds of Gorilla tape (clean the hose) works great….10+ years…and perfect. Monaco had more jagged corners and brackets so nicking was easy. This exposes the MAIN Junction Box. Always remember to do that very 5 or so years. The connections loosen….trust me. THEN….to Richard’s observations. Yes the Dynasty ones with the “rubber wheel drive on the cord” is much nicer. Can you retro fit? Don’t think so. They are NOT CHEAP per a member’s post. YES, you can run a short length of SealTite or plastic flex conduit and put in a Camco 50 A male. IF I did that…I’d keep a blank Female (no wires) over it. I do NOT think that an ATS will malfunction… but having the possibility where exposed MALE prongs are….spooks me, Then, you salvage the cord…NOW, also replace the MALE end. These are getting older and banging around, even lightly, has lead to power issue….especially the high cost (over $10K) Open Neutral. Then you coil up the old cord…and go manual. OTHERS probably have some more to add, but this is the gist or history of the past problems… Thanks for the link on repairs….I KNOW that several have done this….maybe they will chime in…

EDIT and UPDATE. Was watching a video and the YouTuber rebuilt the motor. My windings were toast. However if you look at the screen shot, it is a GREAT show and tell. Notice the stud. It is a “drop in place and tighten down”. GREAT as long as you don’t have it in a MH that vibrates like a 4.5 Mag earthquake. The retaining nuts, on the outside, loosen. Poor contact on the inside….arcs and sparks and high resistance. EVERY LIPPERT owner should do this PM every few years. Sometimes experience is a dear $chool….just passing on. The solenoid connections are fixed…just clean and tighten…

Great. Now….if they blow or have issues….I’d pull the Positive (signal) wires from each relay. Or pop out relays. That will totally “disconnect” the leads from the HI/LO sowtch. Then drive and test and such. Still got an issue….it is UPSTREAM….of course….assuming the HI/LO switch is OK. Then disconnect the power from the HI/LO switch…..keep working your way backwards or upstream. If one of the inline fuses pops…issues in the Headlight housings or in the harness. YES…working on MH’s provides one to make repairs in sometimes “exotic” locales….or in non hospitable climate conditions….

Great you can clean it. Calcium or hard water deposits are bad. BUT….EXPERIENCE HERE. A hose that was out coiled up for a while over the winter had a MESS of bugs and eggs and larvae in it. BINGO….instant clog. BUT, here is how I had plumbed mine and escaped having to pull out the backflush unit…as mine is way out of sight and reach. A full day job to get off a panel. I use a short 3 ft hose extension….male on one end….female on the other. I have a 1/4 turn garden hose shutoff valve. I attached the hose to the flush fitting….and used a washing machine mesh washer. Then I put the quarter turn valve on the other end. But, belt and suspenders…also used a washing machine filter washer. SO…I want to backflush. Bring the hose to the MH. Hook up to the 1/4 turn valve. Turn OFF valve. Walk and turn on hose at faucet. NOW I can turn ON and OFF the backflush at the MH ….as needed. I also ordered a FEMALE Garden Hose plastic plug with a “tab” on the end….there is a hole in the tab. I zip tied the plug so it is hanging. AFTER I backflush and remove the hose….I screw in the plug I have the same plug on the fresh hose to keep critters out….

John, Pulled your manual and the sales brochure. There is now reference in the manual to a 25 ft Super or Full Wall slide. NOW….all that to say. Very difficult to troubleshoot something that perhaps was a special build or a show coach or an experimental model. THERE may be others that are aware or have experience…but , from all the posts over a long time….you might benefit from the basics. UNFORTUNATELY…. In many cases, the reliability of the full wall slides is poor. Chris Throgmartin ( @throgmartin) was mentioned. His comments have been honest, but not complimentary of them. We have helped folks over the years….I remember issues on a Dynasty and a Camelot and maybe a few more….the Knight does NOT pop up. I googled as well as searched our data posts. NADA on a Knight with a Full Wall slide. So….that is unfortunate. From a generic standpoint, I DOUBT you have a HWH system….why…even in the upper food chain Dynasty (2007 to be precise), the one model with a Full Wall Slide and the conventional HWH system for the remainder….had a LIPPERT “simple” Hydraulic pack or system. It was sort of “buried” or located on the Driver’s side in a bay….which is odd or very unusual. It took a LONG time to get it working. We spent time on the phone with a Mobile tech and he finally sort of “lucked into” it….like, what is “this thing?” The THING was that it WAS an oddly placed Lippert hydraulic package and he finally, by using jumpers from his truck…got it retracted…so the member could drive. I located a Tech nearby, who was really trusted and knowledgeable….I use him. The owner took it in. He diagnosed it. A TRIPPED Circuit breaker. NOW….that is NOT your issue…but I CAN tell you that I chased a similar problem on the SAME Lippert system….which controlled my two slides. Only difference, I think, in your system and mine. I have two valves….you have one. BTW…I had three techs tell me MINE was FINE….but it was intermittent….and never “balky” when they tested and ran an amperage test…. HERE GOES….and this is real world…. First of all….FIND the unit. If it IS a Lippert, it will have a motor with a Solenoid above it. There will be a cable to the soleonid….and a cable from the solenoid to the Motor. The OTHER side or motor terminal will be a cable to ground. There are a LOT of bad advice, novice YouTube Videos on how to fix or such….and one was absolutely wrong and would mess up the motor. Here is one that shows, but not in the best detail, what I THINK yours looks like as it is what was used in the rare 2007 Dynasty full wall. yours will be slightly different, but the motors are sill the same design. I tightened my motor studs after some use….the NEW ONE. Check every connection on the large cables. But pay particular attention to the motor. Unscrew (power off of course at house and chassis) the nut holding the cable. There will be a smaller net under it. Tighten “snuggly”….but not twisting off, that nut. That nut holds the motor stud (s) tight. If the stud retaing nut(s) is loose, there is a HIGH resistance connection….and the motor is moving slower and the slide will be balky and erratic. My slide is NOT as long as yours….but it did the same thing. Do this SIMPLE TEST first…Have some extend or move the slide. Put your VOM on the House Bank….I doubt the Chassis is powering….but can’t find a print. If you are on shore or genny running….the voltage will be 13.1 or so…..if all is well, the voltage during the slide’s movement should stay in the mid 12’s. But if the motor has a high resistance connection….then note how low it goes. NOW…go to the Lippert unit. Out your VOM on the motor teminals. Exercise the slide. Whatever the voltage was at the House….hopefully no more than a few tenths drop. Check the connections per the above and repeat. IF the motor is drawing too much current….bingo….it kicks up the amperage and your motor gets hot. Mine had, from the factory,the wrong size circuit breaker and I eventually killed the system….I figured it out TOO LATE. New pump system. The entire unit was about 40% more than just the motor….a NO Brainer. That is MY experience. Now….if you want to try a “trick”. Take a vehicle….and put the positive on the INCOMING cable of the solenoid. Ground out the negatvie to the frame. Now….let someone work the slide….did it run faster and smoother and not balky? If so…you have a bad connection up stream. Swap out the House Disconnect switch. Cheap. You have a great switch….but they break. Mine was eventually the issue. I’d carry a spare one anyway….so, putting in a new switch…Blue Seas….is good maintenance and might just be the problem…again….this is real world and I spent a LOT of time with Lippert, Monaco and others and finally, Frank. McElroy taught me the proper way to isolate a problem. THATS GENERIC….but I would not spend another penny on it until I had less than 0.2 - 0.3 VDC drop in Motor Voltage….while running from the House bank… PAST THAT….If you have good voltage and can have someone check the current draw at the motor….it should be less than 70 amps. Lippert says 65 Amp motor and to fuse or protect at 80 A. Mine had a 150A…

Too much verbiage…. My fault. Each system is unique. The manual shows TWO thermostats. OK….you got ONE. SO…simple. Data cable starts at the Thermostat. Runs to the front. Then, presumably to the middle. It MAY loop down into that rabbit hole called Zone 4….then back to the Bedroom. The HIDDEN device is a Standalone Controller. There is NO HIDDEN THERMOSTAT….just a BURIED Controlled. There will be THREE “wall” or under counter “REMOTE TEMPERATURE SENSORS. The front Thermostat is USUALLY the one for the front. Now JUST TO DRIVE YOU CRAZY….SOME Patriot Thunders ( a Dynasty Clone)….actually had an UP FRONT remote temp sensor….so the MAIN Thermostat got a reading from each one. OK….now be ready to learn SOME MORE. If you call Dometic and say….HELP ME….it don’t work….then tell them you do NOT have a complete Dometic system….as in the OEM 5 Button Thermostat….they will say. Sorry…..we only offer help for a Dometic system. Call MicroAir….tell them NO WORK. Sorry, we do NOT know or provide help on a NON FUNCTIONAL Dometic control system. Your existing Dometic system MUST be functional. YES… I called and asked…. We have had Members that had a MicroAir. One unit failed. The MicroAir folks said….send back (still under warranty). The member was sharp enough and followed the help here. OPPS. He had a FAILED controller. NOW, that you have given out MORE information….I would proceed as follows. Remove the Thermostat. You’re gonna replace it anyway or maybe NOT. ASSUMING you have power to the fuse….and we don’t know that. Here is the way. Go UP TOP….rear UNIT. Follow the wiring. Find the INCOMING 12 VDC. MEASURE and VERIFY that you have 12 VDC there. Then unplug, downstairs, both cables. Mark the mating ones if you want….does NOT matter. Then….Plug in the Thermostat to any of the two CONTROLLER cables (NOT the ones connecting the zones. NOW reset the Thermostat per instructions. If it WORKS…..NOT A THERMOSTAT issue. OK….keep going. Pull the control unit out, take it to the front. Take a picture of the DIP switches….and set the REAR ONE just like the Front. Go downstairs. Plug in the Thermostat like in the rear. If it works….bad controller. IF NOT….something is wrong in the AC unit…and if you can’t figure it out….call or get a tech. You have to isolate which component is bad….and until you do the above, you are guessing as well as getting frustrated. Texted you and will help off line r

Followup…. First, you will have to go to the drawings and MAYBE start looking at the Pins and the “input” and output side. @Frank McElroy is our expert on the Dynasty….he has a 2008. PM HIM. Odds are he KNOWS exactly which fuse provides the power NOW….Myron has given you a lot of help. BUT….your question is a little “higher level”. The system, per Dometic design, is configured or “designed” for ONLY one 12 VDC point. To state another way. For each group or “section”….you only need ONE of the Control Modules…..wihich is on the Dometic breakdown as “AC Board” or something like that. BUT, Monaco, chose to run a hard 12 VDC power line to every HVAC Unit. That is a HARD AND FAST RULE. If I understand your problem…you have no 12 VDC to the front….that is a SINGLE control or single UNIT. NOW the rear is a little different…..read and UNDERSTAND this. The 12 VDC to the front AC is the same “feed” or FUSED circuit as the rear. Your rear is a bit tricky. 12 VDC goes to the Rear (Zone 1) and Middle (Zone 2). BUT THEN…Monaco broke their LOGIC or maybe CHEATED. There is a Hidden, standalone AC Board buried….it does NOT, per Frank’s digging, a SEPARATE 12 VDC. It works as ….HEY, here is my Data Communications cable….it gives me 12 VDC on ONE Pair. I get my Digital MPX command signal from the OTHER Pair. From a practical or troubleshooting plan, this is HOW I’d DO IT. Does the REAR Thermostat have Power? YES….YEA! I didn”t blow the house FUSE….and I know the issue is in the FRONT… if NO!…the Thermostat is dead. STOP any further chasing and FIND the HVAC fuse. It IS on the House Board. Also, since Myron is an advocate of simplicity…..start reading page 105…it has all I just, in both posts, said and explans howeach zone works. IT IS NOT a trouble shooting guide….but unless you know the basics….as Myron does…his issues and such and his innate knowledge may not be adequate to help you. NEXT UP…read section 8. BUT, the Dynasty does NOT have the “panel” labels in the manual if yours is missing, all the labels are shown in the print. BE AWARE…you may NOT have an HVAC FUSE LABEL. My HVAC fuse is labeled “SATELLITE”. No WHERE is that also shown as HVAC….except in the prints. NEXT UP. Here is what I would do….and this ASSUMES that you have found the fuse and have POWER to the rear Thermostat…..BTW…this answers the “HOW TO TEST”. Look in the trouble Shooting guide….or download the manual for your unit, towards the back there is section on “how to wire and install”. Find the Ground and PLUS 12 VDC to the “AC Board”. I THINK…and wager that the pins or the RJ connector leads, are on the print. So…VOM on continuity…..use the GROUND connection and then check each of the 4 Pins. THEN do the same for the 12 VDC…those two PINS are the power. Members hace pinned out the RJ many times before. Think you messed yours up? Go to the roof and pull the cover off the rear. Pin out all 4 leads….then see if you have the same upfront. If you fried the board…then the Data Cable will not work. You CAN swap boards or move the thermostat…..as Myron did. BTW….the leads are INTERCHANGEABLE. The Data cable can come into the Zone 1 rear….to the Thermostat….and the other one goes to the Zone 2. You can SWAP the cables. Domietic did that for ease of installation….the Controller is basically a “Parallel” connection….so the two dangling RJ’s will work on either cable, That’s the way….from knowing the system and helping at least 50 - 100 folks, like yourself, troubleshoot….once you have the basics of how it works,,,,testing is easy. Good Luck…

EDIT. ADDED THE HVAC PRINT TO POST END OF EDIT There is ONE FUSE, Somewhere on the main fuse panel. It feeds ALL the control modules…zone 1, 2 & 3. You have a hidden “controller” for the middle section heat. Zone 4, i think. There is a clear drawing for this in your prints. It shows all the zone units and 120 VAC and such. If you down load the file…open it. There is a PDF index. I can’t really tell how much damage….you may have done….minor or major from your post. Here is what you need to understand, There is a 2 Pair or 4 wire “data communications” cable that runs from the thermostat to the front unit….then all the way through the MH. My memory is slack as to whether you have 2 or 1 thermostats. One pair is 12 VDC. It powers the thermostat. The other pair is a Multiplexed pair. If you broke or destroyed a phone connector wire….UGLY. The way this works. Any time you mess with or disconnect or tinker with the HVAC system, you “disconnect” a circuit that is always HOT or live. SO…after you finish, you have to RESET or REBOOT then entire system, Turn OFF the bottom switch. Hold ON MODE and ZONE. Then power it ON. FF in the display. That means the Thermostat has communicated with and done a digital handshake with every controller. Sort of like holding hands at a prayer session, BREAK the circuit….it ain't gonna work. Reset. WORD OF CAUTION. Never use the bottom switch for anything except resetting. Use the Zone snd then toggle the MODE to OFF. The thermostat is not in production. Used. The mechanical swrich is the first to fail. You DO NOT want to abuse it. If you blew a House fuse….look on the print or read the owners manual and find out which. Replace or test it. NO FF during reset…there is a Communication open circuit. You can remove the front controller and the the rear controller (top side) and swap. This is the quickest troubleshooting technique. You MUST set the DIP switches so that the front one, presumably NOW in the rear, NOW matches the REAR settings. Odds are…FRONT has only fhe FURNACE DIP ON. The rear is set to zone 3 and Furnace ON, This is based on ONE Thermostat. If you have TWO. Bedroom will be Furnace ONLY…..as the default is Zone 1. Middle will be Zone 2 on. Don’t recall the Furnace setting….PROBABLY NONE…as your heat is Zone 4 in a buried. If you need to find it....post and one of our Dynasty experts will assist. That’s the drill. YOU MUST GET AN FF….otherwise a wiring problem. Some folks have to reterminate the PHONE connectors. You need to be familiar with the prints....m and learn to use them, Use the SEARCH Function. Use AIR. Then click on EVERYWHERE. Select FILES. There are several Dometic related or helpful files. there. I did it for another member on his "AIR" system...but the Dometic popped up as well. Here is the results of the search. Download what you need to learn and understand. https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=air&quick=1&type=downloads_file NO POP QUIZ THIS TIME…skipping the “May the Force….” Tagline. Keep us posted… 2007 Sig to Dynasty 5 Button AQUAHOT HVAC Layout.pdf

Don't believe what folks tell you. The Rolexes, sold on the sidewalks and such, in DC and NYC and LA are REAL. They are a real bargain. They are stolen and not a fake knock off that won't work when you get home. Now....do you feel better....? LOL

simple. You need a THREE (3) conductor #1 AWG cable. You can buy it locally at some Big Boxes. It is called "SERVICE ENTRANCE CABLE" Rated for the run and also weather resistant. Here is a typical way to order online. https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/1-1-1-3-copper-ser-service-entrance-cable?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0MexBhD3ARIsAEI3WHKJlddfSQn3vF08WuIeqqaN4Yn8D3iafJxqp5zAMdNhWzggeb4uqkUaAhHLEALw_wcB Cost without shipping and taxes... $1,760. IN STOCK... PERSONALLY... I would try the chemical... A GUN NUT buddy of mine...also a crackerjack Engineer that "studies things" uses it to protect his arsenal. NOW, having been down this road before to try to keep a few basements dry... YOU NEED AIR CIRCULATION to keep use the DampRid in an area that large. YES, it will work for a Gun Safe... but how many cubic feet is in your MH...a rhetorical question. YOU COULD run a 20" floor fan off the inverter. I have had this one in my attic for at least 3 years. IT WORKS...it is a HIGH CFM and it will move some air... https://www.amazon.com/Air-King-9500-Commercial-22-Horsepower/dp/B0007Q3RT8?pd_rd_w=7Sz6D&content-id=amzn1.sym.62bf6161-8bd0-4857-85d6-e30435da42bd&pf_rd_p=62bf6161-8bd0-4857-85d6-e30435da42bd&pf_rd_r=6H9MMT4NRMKZZ9QKX3P3&pd_rd_wg=PFjjF&pd_rd_r=b3369592-6f36-4213-91c0-9062b4240156&pd_rd_i=B0007Q3RT8&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_1_ec_ppx_yo_dt_b_search_bia_t I would purchase a "PLUG IN" Humidity Control and run it at say 50%.... Theoretically, this is a 60 watt fan...or 5 AMPS of DC power (60 divided by 12 V) so....24 hours times 5 amps equals 120 Amp Hours. you have a 450 Amp Hour house bank. TWO (2) days would consume 240 Amp Hours or about 50% of your bank. Throw in a little "fudge factor". I think you would need to run your Generator about 1.5 to 2.0 Hours per day. At 50% load....that is about 1.5 Gallons of fuel (0.75 GPH times 2 hours). SO, that is about $6 per day. IF you have solar...less. Therefore... Moving the air... $180 per month. DampRid??? UNKOWN. BUT, just moving the air will provide some form of moisture removal. Not what you might want to know...but, if you can put containers of DampRid that will collect (need a HIGH SURFACE AREA....think 18" diameter tubs...and empty them....they turn into WATER. Is all this necessary. I DO NOT KNOW? BUT, you COULD purchase a battery powered Humidity Meter...they are cheap. Most come with multiple sensors. SO, 2 or 3. THEN measure the humidity... Don't KNOW WHERE you are...and what it is normally. I think this answers some of your questions....but how to estimate.... Depends on how much moisture is in the air....and how much you intend to control. I MIGHT, seriously, consider the big fan. BUT, put it on a 24 hour timer. Run it for say an hour....every 4 hours. That would be 6 hours per day... compared to 24...or 25%. Your Genny fuel would be around $45 per month. WOULD that work. Don't know....but it might. I do that for my Crawl space and it works...as well as my attic. Good Luck...

Sometimes you ought to thank whatever power or such that you respect, for the charmed life of having easy access to the “USUAL” Monaco madness. Too many here, based on reading posts for 15 years are in my boat. My “white” panel was put in my an 800 pound trained mammal. It has to be warped with the strength of an “ATLAS”. Most folks that have issues must pull it out. But even after removing all the peripherals, then it has to be bent and wedged in. I know maybe 5 or so Camelot owners…..one or two finally got a weight lifter or such to bend it….and the others split it with a saw and then reconnected with s plastic or aluminum strap or plate. I used my phone (technically in today’s vernacular “up skirt” and saw the whole mess. One of these days, I’ll use my probe or spy cam and video it. Ease pr access and Serviceability are not terms to be used. That is why, I adamantly use a washing machine screen filter and flush my hose and the faucet prior to hookup…

Cool. Well stated. Functional for you and you know the caveats. As to the question. If you look at the prints or follow the circuits, the OEM BIRD system was SORT if a BiDirectional….and could if you wanted, be reconfigured easily again since it doesn’t look “gutted”. The system worked thusly. On Shore….the Chassis was NOT charged. They had a “thief” in there. Now, others will differ….and I don’t know the reliability of every one of the knock offs. They all work the same,…but, as you said….some have issues. So that is my take and reliability, plus not particularly liking the “thief” is a pet peeve. OK…driving DOWN the highway, IF you reconnected the solenoid or “Relay” wire back to the Bosch Relay, which is also the same relay that powers your boost, you would charge the House Bank. I am currently working with Todd to determine how his BIRD module works….as I THINK that Intellitec updated it, in subsequent versions, so that is works like mine. Mine is a TRUE BIRD. BUT….Will the White Rogers solenoid function with a 3 VDC Pulsed signal. THAT is the real issue. IF NOT….then it probably makes more sense, assuming you or Todd did want the robust BIRD charging to install the ML-ACR. Cost wise….the same or less that the combined outlay of the latest version of the BIRD module and the Intellitec Big Boy that is designed to work with it, Again…thanks,,, YES….I was doing that when you posted. My comments are there and the information is helpful….and I understand the system…..as I did early on. Todd’s works….or we are testing. Mark”s could be restored….should he desire.

Not exactly SURE what you mean by REPLACEMENT OPTION. Some folk would "kill" to have them installed. You know, I presume, that you can switch to LED, even higher output if desired. We don't have a LOT of posts or issues where the fixture or such breaks....or if so, very infrequently. There are many OPTIONS for adding a reading light....but if there is NOT Power and the switch is inconvenient....BUMMER. The most common approach is to add one above. NOW, that depends if it is Passenger or Driver and whether or not there is an overhead compartment with a lower bottom.... easy to add a battery powered LED....maybe not high tech or "smart phone controlled" but more than adequate for the intended use. Amazon and CW have many options. check them out... Amazon... RV interior light or "flex" or gooseneck might be added.

That's a BIG 10-4, BUDDY. Never leave on the water pump whilst driving. Turn on and off if someone is cooking or needs to wash their hands when MH is moving. Just chiming in and PILING ON to a good piece of advice...

OK... using your cell phone UNDER the panel where the FILL VALVE is...so you can see behind....Shoot a Picture. Otherwise, a WISE investment (less than $30 ) is a SPY CAM with a 6 ft semi rigid probe. I changed out a heater fan in my GS's GF's Ford Escape last night. Had watched the YouTube and pulling apart plastic panels and such on a car is something that I will do...carefully and have experience on maybe 10 different cars over the years. I had to use my camera to see WHERE the hidden one (in the rear and up) was and then guided my Torx bit into the recess. If you had one of this....ODDS ARE...your Check Valve is attached to the City Fill Valve. That is how MOST Monaco's or at least the ones that I have read about or seen or such have. The system is simple. A standard Fill Valve is just a TWO WAY valve. Monaco attached a Check to the side of it. There was a guy out west that had cornered the market and bought up the OEM valves and the OEM Checks. Probably $30 total. He SOLD the completed OEM Monaco assembly for $85 or so. I passed. He may STILL be out there or is listed on some OTHER forums.... not here, I think. SO, do some detective work. Have you read the WATER section (6 or so...memory) in the manual. It usually has details. SOME manuals actually have a schematic at the end. Your Manual, Research and Google will usually, in that order, solve 75% of the questions here.... Past that....then tap into the knowledge base here... Let us know what you find during the "Exploratory" phase....

OK...for the RECORD... The pictures verify that the Intellitec BIRD Diesel(maybe original...but who knows) is in place. But it is TOTALLY non functional. That means the BIRD SYSTEM or BiDirectional charging has been removed. The RELAY terminal on the Module is the OUTPUT to one of the BOSCH relays pictured. Which ever one....then goes to the BOOST or the White Rodgers Solenoid. That relay is wired thusly... If you read the previous post with pin numbers, that is explained. IF the BOOST switch works...then all the OP or whomever did was disable the BIRD. The BIRD output (RELAY Terminal) goes to that Relay. BUT that Relay is also the CONTROL relay for the White Rodgers. AS USUAL....interesting. NOTE that the Generator Terminal is used. Todd's is NOT. FWIW, I sent Todd a sheet so he can measure voltages. We, Frank and myself, need this so we can help others. That will answer the questions. MY INTERPRETATION....from your comments. The ORIGINAL Windsor did NOT have a "Trickle" charger. It had a THIEF system. That was a device that bled power off the House (assuming there was AC power) and then charged the Chassis Battery. On the OEM Windsor circuit....that function was NOT available... I can't remember the device's brand name...but Amp - L - Start or such are out there and being used... As long as there is POWER and the House is being Charged...then it will siphon off and charge the Chassis. There is a PCB and a few Diodes to keep it from stealing power and draining the House. Your Orion-Tr-Smart is a variation of that....if I read correctly. I am ASSUMING that you have it wired so that the Alternator puts out a signal or is used for POWER. Then you can add the House and you will get or siphon off charging current for the Chassis... There appears to be many configurations or uses. Is that how you are using it. Most folks, when the hear or read "Trickle" charger on the site think... an AC powered, low output (usually 2 or so amps) charger that will maintain the Chassis and NOT overcharge it or damage it. Could you elaborate on how you have it configured and what it does or is intended to do.... We all learn.... Thanks...

WHAT brand is the up front Monitor? I do NOT have an Aladdin...so my REAR backup is displayed on the monitor that was also supplied by same vendor. Monaco use ZONE DEFENSE in the Camelots (2009 and such) as they DROPPED the Aladdin tie in. There are OTHERS that were used. NOW....the RIGHT TURN signal, I was TOLD by Zone....who did a LOT of "warranty work" at their shop....some 25 miles South of Tampa....is a COMMON problem. Their SYSTEM....which they said was a "hodge podge" works like this. Monaco ran the cables to the FRONT LEFT....then they had to be "mated" or connected at some "JOINT" up and under the front cap. That JOINT was a MONACO install...and NOT a ZONE item. The Joint will fail...as in get water or just sort of shake loose. When the RIGHT camera goes squirrely, Zone would isolate the joint....take apart the connectors and do some "MAGIC" and restore it and all was well. I have NEVER heard that "story" posted here. BUT, I had to swap out a warranty camera and also have a "extended" warranty power supply fixed on my monitor....both of which cost me ZILCH. Their techs were GREAT. One was Butch (probably dead) but a younger on also. They seemed to be knowledgable...and knew exactly, in THEIR system, where the intermittent occurred and the fix. NOW that MIGHT not be the configuration with all models....but my take and recollection. The LEFT to RIGHT cable connection was built in or was standard in all Monaco's AND regardless of Vendor....it was there. BUT....maybe the cables on mine were too short and required the joint. Mine does it once and a while...and I shudder...but it is not bad enough to go digging. You MIGHT find out, by pulling, the camera manufacturer. Then talk to them. ALSO...look at the connections for the REAR camera. Somewhere...I THINK, at least on mine it was the old RED/WHITE/YELLOW cable. The camera had audio and they used that. R/W/Y is called COMPOSITE. If you have an older, smaller TV around the house...it MIGHT have the same inputs. SO, take it out there....you might need a "patch or extension" cable. Hook it up. WORKS.. Camera OK. Doesn't... Cabling or bad camera... IF you have a source...you can test it. DON'T LAUGH... THERE should be connectors on the camera in the back....I pulled mine out. R/W/Y... AS to REV.... We are "LEGACY" models in their data base. That means....we have PRINTS....maybe....but our techs don't know squat. There ARE a few parts out there that REV is stocking. Weird stuff as well as common and still in use. Price is usually 5 times that from other vendors. The TRICK... Figure out the CORRECT PN. SOME folks have the ORIGINAL Monaco PN....which is, of all things, buried in the REV data base...so if you call in....sometimes they can find it. We HAVE had members post the REV PN and sure enough...REV will sell it and it is in STOCK... SO much for a summation of 15 years of HISTORY...

Frank McElroy and I have been "discussing" and such the Blue Seas ML-ACR. This pertained to how "EASY" if might be for a less than "Journeyman Tech" or a seemingly Novice, from electronics and electrical perspective to install. The main caveat was that there had to be a multi pair (2) wire run or cable between the ML-ACR and the front so that the, included in the retail unit, Boost/Control Switch could be properly installed. Having to run a separate or additional wire has been a concern....as to the "fun of doing that" by some members. However, today, based on the discussion that Frank and I have been having, and a long conversation with Blue Seas has prompted this general information post. Attached is the Blue Seas "Install" instructions. https://d2pyqm2yd3fw2i.cloudfront.net/files/resources/instructions/980035700-001-ML-ACRs.pdf Frank will be adding this to our files for convenience. From a simplistic standpoint, the remote switch, which is included on all "Retail Units" should be mounted up front. The single existing wire or lead to the rear can be used for terminal 2, RED. The other 2 amp fused "up front" wire is connected to terminal 8 and jumpered to terminal 3. However, at this point it is NOT absolutely essential that the Yellow #7 Wire be available. The switch will work and turn ON and OFF the unit. BUT, there is a also a second function, other than "an indicator light" for the Yellow wire. It is a "Feedback" wire for the trouble or error codes or "OK STATUS" of the unit. The tech said that....as long as there were no "faults or abnormalities", it was NOT essential...but HIGHLY recommended. Thus, a second wire is needed. Other that running this wire, there is a work around for the majority of 2006....and maybe some 2005 Monaco Motor homes. IF YOU ARE NOT USING THE INFAMOUS TRAILER BRAKE CONTROL FEATURE. which was prewired and installed in most of the 2005....and definitely all 2006, then this wire can be used. I have included prints and pictures as well as the "PIN OUTS" on the Trailer Brake Controller Plug. There MAY have been a different plug used circa early 2005...but this is the one used, consistently, since 2006. BTW....the INFAMOUS Blue WIRE for the control wire is SUPPOSED to be pin 2 or the "4:30" lower RIGHT pin LOOKING INTO the 7 Pin rear receptacle. If you look at the M-66 Controller Print, PIN #2 is the NOT TERMINATED up front wire or the control wire that runs to the rear to the PIN 2 of the 7 Pin....or what is commonly called the BLUE WIRE. This would be the SPARE, UNSUED, INSTALLED and AVAILABLE wire to use as the YELLOW LED/Indicator circuit. Hope this helps 38061113 (Schematic, Plug, Trailer, 7 Pin).pdf 38060870 M-66 2006 Exec Brake Controller.pdf

YES.... They do seem to be "unique". However, from spending half of my career in "LINE" manufacturing and having to retool or make revise over 100 stations for a model year change... IT HAPPENS. If you really want to understand the "construction" of your motorhome, the best resource is to download from Monaco or Holiday Rambler the "Sales Brochure". That discusses, maybe vaguely, the construction of the walls and floor and ceiling. Almost understand the evolution of manufacturing. As time passed, there were more advances in how to reduce costs. I worked in a boat factory during the summer... We always "laid up" the hull using different layers of fiberglass and also type (Mat, Rovin Wovin and Cloth). The owner went to a show and bought a "CHOPPER GUN". It cut fiberglass strands and spit them out impregnated with resin. One man could, properly trained, do the hull in maybe 3 hours for a small fishing boat compared for maybe a day or so with 2 guys. Structurally, based on testing, the chopper gun method was stronger. THUS....we converted... I don't pretend to be the expert on many of the "construction" details...but I had to repair a "major dent and void" in the underlayment of my BED slide. Chris Throgmartin was just testing the Guardian plates and had never seen my failure. We talked... I cut a small "hole" and cored the bottom. He consulted with a friend that worked in the Elkhart factory. We both learned about how the floor was laid out in a grid with "perlines" for strength and such... They had, memory of what I was told, a large laminating operation where the sandwich was two layers (top and bottom) and then the grid or perlines randomly spaced and it was then foamed. I THOUGHT that maybe it was a "Vacuum Forming" operation.... That was way different from the early days were the panels were closer to "residential" construction. YES...one never knows what to expect in any exterior surface.... BUT the true "SNOWFLAKE" is a MH built by Crew A and the one behind it built by Crew B... They are identical...all the "STANDARD RUN" items....exactly the same "Build and MSRP" Sheet... save color. ONE MH will start, with the Chassis Battery Disconnect OFF... The OTHER....NOPE... We have just had a topic that delved into that very subject.