Tom Cherry

If not used, tires last for 6-10 years, depending on the storage and environmental conditions. Overall, the time limits for stored tires are much the same as for tires that are being used. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) and official manufacturers suggest a tire is only 100% safe to use until it turns 5-6 years old. However, some admit that a tire can be operable up to 10 years if you check it for issues annually after the 5th year. https://www.utires.com/articles/how-long-do-tires-last-if-not-used/#:~:text=Overall%2C the time limits for,turns 5-6 years old. After five years or more in use, your tires should be thoroughly inspected at least once per year by a professional. If the tires haven't been replaced 10 years after their date of manufacture, as a precaution, Michelin recommends replacing them with new tires. https://www.michelinman.com/auto/auto-tips-and-advice/tire-buying-guide/when-do-i-need-new-tires#:~:text=After five years or more,per year by a professional.&text=If the tires haven't,replacing them with new tires. The above comes from Michelin. Many have stated the common sense and generally accepted standards. Suggest that you contact Michelin for a more complete technical answer. Bottom line, these tire are unsafe at any speed....to paraphrase Mr. Nader. It is NOT RECOMMEND that you run them. The decision, as well as the liability, is yours, but if there were an accident and the public information posted here was used in the due diligence of a legal proceeding, then there may be issues of "validity of coverage" from your insurance carrier due to knowingly installing or having improper or unsafe components on the vehicle.

Edited title for clarity. If you read the manual, there are a number of devices, some option, some standard that are 12 VDC powered in the "Entertainment or Informational" center. If this is essential, then using the House Fuse Panel and a Toner on each fuse should easily trace the circuit. If you determine what it is or what it is for, please advise. Monaco often dot matrix printed a label on their harnesses. Have you examined the the white wire or exposed enough of it under the video switcher to see if it is labeled?

YES....to the above. Practically. NOPE. The ORIGINAL AquaTech RV55 had a built in CHECK VALVE. When Remco bought the rights....NO CHANGE. Maybe 2 years ago. The Remco RV55 NO LONGER HAS A CHECK VALVE. WHY? Speculation. They sell these pumps in BULK to manufacturers. MANY of the manufacturers are installing a CHECK VALVE. No need for a DOUBLE CHECK. SO, Remco DROPPED the Check Valve. They do NOT have a WITH or WITHOUT part number. You order the simple little drop in check valve assembly as an OPTION. Pop it in when you install....it is NOW the same ORIGINAL RV55.. That assumes of course that the pump is the same. Remco bought the pumps from AquaTec for years. HAVE they outsourced it to a land far away? NO IDEA BUT, if you order a NEW Remco RV55....you need, on a Monaco MH, to add in the "accessory" check valve. There is a LONG topic on this...

That logic is also used, almost 99% on all the steps. FWIW. I always keep mine extended.....until I turn on the ignition and they retract. Others prefer that the open and close every time the door is opened or closed...which I think causes premature failure as the motor only has so many "cycles".... In that mode....when the door is opened....assuming ignition OFF, they extend....stay extended....and only cycle with the ignition switch. That's the logic....

Great information. Thanks. Just be aware that there at least TWO different types of the "Generic 3M VHB" double stick. The spec sheet says that the thinner CLEAR has better "peel" or holding strength. However, it is recommended for flat surfaces....where the thicker "black" emblem tape might give a better bond of a slightly rougher surface. Personal experience, like Roy posted. If you ever had a factory double sided gasket peel off. Use WD-40 on both the MH and the rubber gasket and peel off all the OLD or residual adhesive. Sometimes a little Acetone will help. It will not hurt, on a cloth, either surface. Then... THOROUGHLY wash with a soap like a little Dawn in a bowl....rinse and dry. THEN... Right before you apply, use a cloth with a little acetone on both surfaces. This acts as a primer in that it activates the surfaces. Then apply and mount. It will HOLD as long, presumably, until the proverbial bovines come home. I would use that technique, including the acetone activation, on any solar bracket that I mounted. Good Luck.

No RUSH. We need to talk. If you do the tests, then we will have an answer to a mystery that is really important and will allow folks, especially, the Moderators, to give a more comprehensive and accurate answer to some things that always pop up. This is how we learn and folks that will do the testing are a valuable resource....wear safety glasses... LOL...

Jim, Todd and I have been exchanging PM more that a politician and his campaign manager. The GIST... Todd has the OEM Intellitec Module. 00-00365-00. I can NOT find any details on it. He does NOT, I think, have a FULL BIRD system... The prints are hard to come by....and Monaco did a lousy JOB. The Genny sense was not used....or maybe someone pulled it off. It was a "UH-OH" rethink or maybe the later BIRD Modules didn't need it. The ones that were used circa 08 did NOT need it. There were some later Windsors, 2004 for sure as Richard (Dr4Film) sent me his schematic and It was in use, I think then. BUT, that Module MAY have been a revised one. There appears to be at least 5 or more "REVS" of the Diesel2. ONE of them actually changed the software program...Thanks to Frank's research. They ALL have the IGNITION... but that was for consistency. OK....more than you want to KNOW. The original one like TODD has was only a RUNNING Bird System and did NOT charge the Chassis when parked and ON AC. BUT, the later models had a timer in them....and then the "IGNITION" terminal was bypassed after maybe 2 minutes or so.. THEN, the Module closed and started charging the Chassis. SO, my approach to change the INPUT might not work. The NEXT THING... The OUTPUT signal. or the RELAY contact. Once Monaco and Intellitec switched to the Intellitec Big Boy, then the voltage to the Coil was pulsed. Mine is pulsed and will read 3 - 4 or so. THAT is correct....100% on that....as I got that from several conversations with the ORIGINAL Intellitec Support guy, who passed away and was NOT replaced. Frank know the Dynasty system from head to tails. The Proprietary #6 board on them send out a PULSED 8 or so VDC signal. Therefore the coil is getting twice the current as mine. That makes them run HOT....too HOT to wrap your hand around....it will BURN. That is NORMAL. Design questions on that....call Intellitec. Frank and I only KNOW how it works and the differences....but why Intellitec did it that way.... GOD ONLY KNOWS. Mine does NOT make a LOUD HUM (as in a Pulsed signal...as the voltage is lower)... the Dynasties DO...that is a Troubleshooting assist. OK....having said all that. I plan to set up a simple grid so Todd can test his system. ODDS ARE...it will work like he says or thinks. BUT...WHY ALL THE NEED. Because... The Newer Intellitec Diesel2 are a Pulsed 3 - 4 VDC Output. IF his older one is a constant 3 - 4 VDC....and his White Rogers works....GREAT. BUT, if his older one is a full 12 VDC, NON PULSED....then if he replaced it....with the newer model....they don't make the older ones any more. PROBLEMATICO... He would have to ALSO replace the White Rogers with a Intellitec Big Boy (200 Amp). NOW....will the OEM White Rogers WORK with a low (3 - 4 VDC Pulsed coil voltage)..... I HAVEN'T a clue. Maybe White Rogers knows....maybe it is in the Tech Spec. I don't have that. SO....before Todd makes any changes.....he or WE as in I am helping him, needs to know what is happening NOW and then make the call. IF he needed to replace the OLD Diese2....maybe $100. Then throw in the $250 for the Big Boy. AT THAT POINT....I totally agree with your former post.....ML-ACR TIME. OK...I spent a LOT of time this morning on the phone with Frank. We concluded and he confirmed.... You CAN MAKE the ML-ACR WITH REMOTE Package WORK....without RUNNING an additional wires. It will NOT BE FULL FUNCTION....but you can use the BOOST and turn it ON AND OFF using the Blue Seas supplied switch. It takes only TWO WIRES from the ML-ACR to the new, up front switch. The second wire is the LED or TELL ME THE MODE light. The switch will switch... Hope this helps

WELL as they say... THAT DEPENDS. The 3M CLEAR VBH is about 20% or so, based on the 3M tech sheets than the thicker black rubber (Emblem adhesive). It is used for door plates...and the package says.. WARNING....you will MAR the surface... OK...on the ROOF? I am a Ex Chief Engineer for a fastener company...so I would go with something Mechanical. My Monaco OEM was screwed down. BUT, that is also a potential leak point. Mine has small brackets. Maybe 1" wide...an angle or bent...and the base (on the roof) was 3/4" or so and it stuck up maybe 1 1/2". IF I were doing it....easy choice. I'd use SS Pop RIVETS. They will stay with you. BUT....you can use Rubber WELL NUTS (Amazon) like they use on Kayaks... BUT....This seems to be the best. I have used them...being an old pop river fanatic. They worked great holding down hardware on my Kayak. This one is large Flat Head. Comes in all styles and heads and possibly SS. If you can find these in SS, I'd go for it. Then you screw into the panel. I LIKE ProFlex and also DiCor 501SWL. The DiCor levels and spreads more. It is the closest to the original GeoCel that was used over the fasteners on the roof. Good Luck...

Picture, Brand & Model please. MONACO switched to the AquaTech RV 55 in the early to mid 90’s. REMCO eventually acquired all rights to it. It is the predominant one here…..for replacement….BUT some use Surflo….mostly their low and high ends are DIAPHRAGM. A deep well home water pump is centrifugal. Has to be. A diaphragm pump is used as trash water or contractor’s pump or RV. It basically move a lot of water….but it doesn’t have any or very little lift. Yes, you can buy, if you research, a centrifugal pump for an RV. NEED a pressure switch and an accumulator or “expansion” tank. Diaphragms did away with external switch and tank….easier to install. Less wiring. Better performance. That’s my read….as usual, others might or will differ….but the bulk of the folks here or use probably, diaphragm…..but…some others like centrifugal…..rarely discussed….but sometimes a comment or recommendation pops up….

All I know is second hand, but I helped a friend get his 2007 Valid on his Dynasty…FIXED. Background was “he had an air issue”. Drove to Florida to Josams. They fixed his air leaks and found the compressor was KAPUT. Put in a hew compressor and air system is 100%. Josams has one or two “Monaco” specialized techs….long time employees and GOOD. They THOUGHT all his valves had mositure issues…. The PO had, ss part of the deal, had a local tech install a NEW control “box”….but it never was “quite right”….and they blamed the “MH Air system…. OK….Josam’s did NOT overnight the “box”. So, they started replacing a valve. Second new valve….NO JOY. So, Mike, the tech spent about 30 minites on the phone, back and forth….then the Valid suport tech said…. START FROM SCRATCH. Pulled out the control or maybe unplugged it and let it “drain” off any furbar gremlins. Then hooked it back up. The tech took 20 minutes, as I was told, to do a complete FACTORY RESET…..as the first tech was obviously in…way over his head, THEN…..all was well. There is, I was told, a setup routine….where you go through and set it up exactly the way Monaco did on the factory floor, That was 2 years ago. NADA a minutes trouble since then…. I do NOT know if Valid will offer that level of tech support to an end user. BUT…from what I was told….there was a “self diagnostics” in the hard reset and if there were issues with Ground or Circuit issues….they would have been identified. There was NOT, I recall, any “hook up a laptop” ….just a knowledgeable tech in the MH and a good support person…. I saw my writeup and post just a few minutes ago. Wonder why the search didn’t cartch it? That’s just what happened….real world….with a good company….

Please use the search function as requested. There must be 10 separate topics. Ladders were or were not sometimes used on several models…. OK…. https://www.monacoers.org/search/?&q=Dynasty ladder&type=forums_topic&quick=1&search_and_or=and&sortby=relevancy THIS search….Dynasty Ladder…..then selecting “topics” from the “EVERYWHERE” drop down as 20 hits….some relevant….some not LADDER only….how about 10 pages….and some were older Dynasty specific https://www.monacoers.org/search/?&q=ladder &type=forums_topic&quick=1&search_and_or=and&sortby=relevancy Hope this hekps you get the specific and hands on info you need. keep us posted….as to vendors and what you do. Many are about how to properly attach or things folks have tried to prevent a reoccurrence….as well as where to find new hardware….the parts list has an entire section on “ladders”. Use the Adobe “Find” and LADDER… Good luck

OK….FWIW…there are TWO Topics, in my ooinion that are getting similar posts….did not do a deep dive and see if the same posters or others were the same. There is an ongoing theme. I’m adding that tooic to this post. The other topic has some good info on the existing Valid compressor. The Dynasty in 2007, had issues….and is a totally differnt system than the 2008….and if the 2007 system is NOT maintained…it will allow water (not just vapor) to collect and get imto the rear braking system. I posted that scenario a few years back. So, too keep folks properly informed….it is suggested that those intersted or commenting read or scroll the other thread…..more good information makes for more imtelligent recommendations….not going to merge or combine….but just give a heads up…. NOW….AS A BOGO….There have been several other topics where the Aux Compressor is discussed….be aware, the 2007 Dynasty has a totally different compressor. The 07, memory, does NOT have a drain valve….here is the search results….. https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=Valid dynasty water&quick=1&type=forums_topic Click and there is a wealth of past posts and information…..technically, we request that such searches be completed prior to a new topic….

First off. You have the Intellitec Diesel BIRD….OR “DIESEL” Module. The newer ones were called “Diesel2”. Some minor upgrades. It cal called the Charg(ing) Controller. Now That is in a picture. Do NOT sweat that there is no wire on Generator. Monaco or Intellitec “thought” that dual charging was a NONO. Best guess….they copied another MH or were misinformed or”lacking knowledge”. Bottom line….the Genset wire doesnt exist on the later ones….so cross that off. Next. The isolator is totally NON FUNCTIONAL. It is just a “connection stud”. The infamous WHITE wire should trace back to the Coach Battery Terminal on the Charging controller. It is just an INPUT. Same goes for the IGNITION. It is the input from the Ignition….as in when the MH is running…..as in, then the module is monitoing the Coach Bank and the Chassis (when running) bank. OK….that leaves ONE wire. This is the RELAY or it goes to the Battery Bank BOOST Solenoid. Trace that wire…..I HOPE it goes directly….but it MIGHT go to one of the two relays (black boxes). Here’s how it works…. The LATER edition battery Boosts were 200 Amp Solenoids….NOW…it appears that the White Rogers solenoid is the BOOST or Inerconnect solenoid. Your cropped and blown up photos don’t show the PN. Google it. Then post a link or a screen shot of the spec sheets. In essecnce, the Charging Controller is measuring the voltage on each bank. As long as one needs a little juice….then it tells the “Relay” to close or energize the coil. NOW….as stated…the Diesel and Diesel2 had some differences. You can test this. The 200 Amp solenoid that Jim described was typically a 200A ONLY INTERMITTENT….not continuous. SO, if you fed it a full 12 VDC….it burned up the coil. SO, Intellitec sent out a Pulsed or ON/OFF 12 VDC. The duty or ON time was around 25 - 33%. Therefore if you used a DVOM….it “looked” like a low voltage signal. NOPE… but it measured about 3 - 4 VDC. That lower pulsed version kept the coil happy. BUT WAIT….what else does that Big Boy or Battery Connection or JUMPER switch do? It is the Battery BOOST switch up front. So it NEEDED a full 12 VDC. But….read the manual. Do not hold it on for too long. Some “less than well informed” MH owners got the brilliant thought….I’ll put a Golf Tee under that spring loaded switch….I’ll have BIRD Charging. YEAH RIGHT. Maybe for a day or maybe longer…but then they burned out the COIL and fussed at the “life expectancy” of the solenoid. MY Circuit….probably similar to yours. Time for MORE caffeine. There is PROBABLY a Bosch relay. Terminals 85 and 86 are positive and negative from the BOOST switch. Push in that spring loaded switch….the relay coil is energized…..the. There is a FULL 12 VDC going to the “solenoid”. From a relay standpoint…..terminal 30 is connected to terminal 87A when the relay is NOT powered or the coil is not energized. BUT, energize the coil…..then terminal 30 goes to terminal 87. Got all that? When the BIRD system is operationlas….the “relay” signal, probably pulsed, goes to terminal 87A…..then terminal 30 has power and goes to Jumper or BOOST solenoid….so all are charging….assumng AC (Gnerator acts the same as AC) or the engine is running. NOW….OPPS….you need a BOOST. Assuming there is enough power on the HOUSE side….as the up front switch gets the power (positive) from the HOUSE….then there is a power wire that goes back to coil. The Bosch relay closes….and BINGO, there is FULL (non PULSED” 12 VDC going to terminal 87….and since 30 and 87 are “closed”…..then the 30 wire closes the jumper or boost….with a full 12 VDC. THAT is how it works, then later on, it hit Monaco. OMG….if we would use CHASSIS voltage (hot….not ignition switched), we would have FULL TIME BIRD charging….remember the module decided WHEN to engage based on the condition of BOTH Banks. NOW…you say that you have DUAL charging. Simple. No ignition on….no AC PLUGGED IN….NO GENNY ON. Cover the solar or pull the charging wires. IT GETS TRICKY…. Pull the positive on the house….after you turn OFF DISCONNECT….NOW measure to ground….each side of the solenoid. One is ZERO. HOUSE. The other is 12.7 or so….the Chassis….now you know. Hook back up the house bank….turn on the disconnect….plug in to shore….you will see a higher voltage on the house. 13.1 to over 14.x. That means the house is charging….but the “ignition signal is or should be ZERO on the Diesel module (ignition off’. That is normal. Unplug AC…..measure….still 12.7 or so on each side. Now start the engine…wait 5 minutes or so. Remeasure….should be 13.7 - 14.0 or so…chassis is chargine….voltage the SAME ON BOTH SIDES. Again….folks have different outlooks and different ways of accomplishing things, if YOUR system is working as above….it is fine, I have NO IDEA how soemone rewired it. Likewise, you said the stsrting current was fine, with, as they should be, BOTH BANKS ON. In my opinion….no need to make an emergency call to “Ghost Busters”. It ain’t BROKE…. You may have one of the “gee, how’d we mess up”…many folks might…but they don’t have the “Victron”. So nothing to alert them. If you could get enough 2002 owners to test…..how many OK’s vs “DAD GUM….it did start?” NO IDEA…except Monaco acknowledged it happens…but not gonna fix as the WRONG STARTING PROTOCOL WAS USED. That horse is hurting….but it seems to be reviving…. NOW…..NEXT UP….to comment on Jim’s Blue Seas suggestion. The cheap simple Blue Seas ACR works great. It is reliable….it is robust….it has good tech supoort. BUT…as always….understand the CONS. First….your up front Boost switch is now worthless. ME, I would just say…OK. If I needed a boost, get out….go to the ML-ACR…set it to manual…..after no longer needed….back to AUTO. BUT of yow want a full “fledged” boost and remote control, then you run a 4 or 5 wire loom or cable from the ML-ACR and drive on. I could. I am happy the way my Intellitec BIRD works….I will not fix what ain’t broke. But, we have a LOT of fans. Now, if a solenoid or charging module goes bad….I make a Fix VS Replace financial decision and factor in the DIY labor….I have done way worse and way more complicated….I Just choose NOT TO DISCOVER AMERICA…again. One FINAL comment. All it would take to give you a complete DUAL CHARGE or BIRD SYSTEM. Pull the IGNITION wire. Run a wire from the HOT Chassis Bank Stud….(you can use the chassis stud on the solenoid). Hook it up to IGNITION. You have the SAME system that Monaco started to install later on and the EXACT configuration as the 2008 Camelots and up. Really Simple….but this rascal is so complex….that the simple change overwhelms some….and they are concerned…. That’s it. I’d run my test….charging, as it should…as wired….then it ain’t broke….want a REAL BIRD system….swap wires. Good Luck….

Have you read the manual. The prints show a Magnum inverter. I just downloaded your manual. As usual, Monaco allowed different favorites to do different things. Your rig was most likely an Elkhart MH. You have the Freedom. Go to page 307. There is one circuit breaker for the incoming power. This comes from the 30 A breaker in the main panel. It is labeled on the inverter. You havevTWO “BREAKERS” on the LEFT SIDE. ONE is for the Mirowave. The other is the interior outlets. If you look at the JUNCTION box called out….that powers the Bedroom and the outlets that are not wotking. Use your VOM and verify power in the bedroom. Follow the line from the junction box to the upper left. Do you have power there. you must determine a starting point and trace the circuits and go through the junction boxes. Your description is not exactly clear to me. If you have microwave power….one circuit is good….and whichever circuit’s breaker on it is OK. YOU can turn OFF one of the breakers. Microwave off and circuit 1 off….now you know. Then you focus on the OTHER” CIRCUIT. If you don’t have a VOM, then use a cellphone charger and see which outlers work. Print out the diagram and test every one…Mark them on the print. Take a picture and post it we can see. Mark it heavy … you need to read the manual. We need more specific information. Thanks

I stick with my theory. The “isolator” did not provide the starting current, even if energized or engaged. I know that from working on a similar rig. The direct 4/0 cable from the Chassis Bank to the starter lug delivers that 1500 or so amp current. YES….if the isolator was powering the low current, under 200 Amps to “rest” of the chassis circuit….the. It was “technically” in the entire circuit…but not being overloaded. With the alleged mods….who knows. But even if 100% OEM, there were certain MH’s…not a lot that would start like Todd’s. In addition, Monaco would tell owners….not a warranty issue…if you follow the correct procedures as in “both banks” on. But, if you or Todd, find a mod that is causing this, please post as others might benefit….

Cool. UNLESS someone did a “Mod”, then you have one of the “rare….but OEM” units that WILL start, although it isn’t, according to the old time Monaco Tech Support….supposed to. As many state here, you have a SNOWFLAKE… when operated correctly, all is fine. What alerted the Camelot owner was the gauges acting erratically. Your may NOT if the “glitch” or wiring error was different. This situation can be a learning or teaching moment. If it doesn’t start….don’t always assume a dead battery. BOTH switches should be ON. If the gauges or any other electrical abnormalities occur….I THINK that the Camelot would not allow the tranny to shift…or maybe the Allison pad was dead…..this is a 13 YO recollection. Then SHUTDOWN and start with the basics. Glad it is solved…..based on Monaco’s comments….you would have been alerted to an abnormal condition….. BUT, my take, what caused the issue, as previously posted. The “lockout” on the charging circuit was NOT energized….as it is is powered from the chassis bank and the “ignition” switch and the entire starting system being properly “ON”. Since it wasn’t, the intake heaters were on when the starter was engaged and the delay, as in the “wait to start” sequence had not been allowed to “run the proper” cycle. Thus, the power hungry toaster elements were ON….and the starter was engaged. PURE SPECULATION….your battery must have been GOOD….as in the engine started WITH the heaters on. I may be wrong….others will or may chime in, but that abnormal or non standard condition alerted our Victron…. SO, a reminder to all. If you routinely turn off the batteries, both or just one bank, turn them BACK on. Curious….do you ordinarily see a “wait to start” light? Mine is temperature sensitive. If so snd it didn’t happen when the spike occurred….then that verifies my theory. If NOT….as Monaco said….”we don’t know….just follow the manual”. Thanks for the feedback….

FWIW…..the fog cleared a little this morning. Early after joining, I helped some fellow owners of 2009 Camelot’s with a few “strange” conditions. Jim’s comments sort of rang a bell. We had one owner that did, frequently, turn off the Chassis battery, thinking, even on shore….with a 100% “functional” Intellitec BIRD or BiDirectional charging system, that he was protecting the chassis battery. His rig would start. I was, offline, in contact with 3 or so other 09 owners. NONE of our rigs would start. We all tested and repeated. The individual with the condition also reported erratic conditions after starting that showed up on the gauge cluster. I then contacted Monaco tech support. This happened after the Navistar purchase and the same prebankruptcy personnel had been recalled and were there. Their comment. It “AIN’T” SUPPOSED TO HAPPEN…and they said it was not a condition that was ONLY a Camelot/Scepter issue….but happened on several models over the years. Bottom line…..”don’t try to start” with the Chassis OFF. Quote….in is not something that is supposed to happen, but it does…..and we never got a good answer. That was circa 2011….. Fast Forward. Now after looking at high current prints on just about every model goin back to 2000…. Jim brings up a good point. The Chassis Battery is NOT switched ON or OFF going to the starter. That would take a 2000 Amp disconnect switch. BUT, the Chassis Disconnect switch has to be ON to provide power to the entire Chassis circuit. That power is what sends the start signal via the ON ignition switch to the rear and energizes the RRB. Without pulling prints, there is a signal to the starter solenoid and “something” is now providing power to at least that section of the Chassis circuit. This comment is sort of a reach back in time….but based on the circuit. In addition, there is a Neutral Safety Start signal and relay involved. Whether this Windsor has the same “wiring discrepancy (s) that one Camelot had and it is wired “per the OEM prints” or whether someone “modified” a circuit or such, I don’t know. What I DO know is that the 09 Camelot had a functional BIRD system….as I learned how to “troubleshoot” that system from the Intellitec tech support tech….and he was good and patient…..but, he had a coronary and the “candy” shop took over troubleshooting. SO….all that to say… I DO KNOW that the Big Boy Solenoid was NOT engaged or closed with the Chassis disconnect OFF as in the Big Boy was not passing current or in effect, jumpering, the batteries. OK…..cutting to the chase…based on what I personally know today…. this may, for this one Windsor, be NORMAL. Many other Windsor owners might disagree….and for their rigs, be correct. All i know for certain, Monaco tech support said it infrequently happened…almost rare….but it DID and on a MH right out of the factory. SO, chasing a wiring error, only on a few units out of a model year, will be challenging….unless one knows the circuits and has the prints and can find the “opps, shouldn’t have been here” connection. Next up, addressing the comment about the “Victron” being the equivalent of the Magnum BMK….which is a shunt based system. I admit to being less than well versed on aftermarket additions. Unfortunately, I and many contributors have tried to lend assistance to folks that said “Victron”….and yes, now that I see the screen, that does make sense. However, we had situations where there was a variety of “Victron” devices and it was only after a lot of frustration on my and other contributor’s part did we realize that the OEM “systems” had been virtually gutted…..and all our comments about look here and do that just lead to frustration on the other end. The STOCK RESPONSE, we usually make is….What mods have been made and provide pictures. Then usually a member with specific knowledge of that add on(s) will take over and usually go offline as the bulk of assistance given here is for the OEM components. So, I appreciate the update. But, fundamentally…..the “don’t do this” advice from the Monaco tech support and my recommendation still stands. Follow the operating procedures in the manual, Monaco, or the “device’s” manual. If that eliminates the problem and no harm has been done….unless you have a high IQ in electrical/electronics and can follow the schematics and then manually troubleshoot….then best to move on. Sorry for the length….but some posts are considered as “teaching moments” and members learn the basics and the contributions here are more focused and relevant. Todd….please let us know if the spike or alarm happens when both switches are on. No one, way back when, when your MH was built was using a BMK or Shunt based monitor….I don’t know when Magnum added the kit to their line, but I don’t recall the BMK initials being used to much later….mid 2010’s or so. I really don’t think there is an issue…just an abnormality in your wiring and when all is correct, the alarm doesn’t sound off… Thanks…

OK….MY 2 CENTS. First, the Chassis switch is only for the “other stuff”. There is direct 4/0 cable from the Chassis to the starter lug. That does not go through the House Disconnect. However, there is also another (probably 4/0) that goes through the Chassis disconnect. It “runs” the Chassis stuff….some high drain stuff and fuses. FWIW, there is also a heater element inside the air intake. That element is like a high performance toaster. Once the engine starts to warm up, it cuts out. There is a “circuit” that is designed to protect the charging circuit….as not burning up or overloading the alternator. If you watch your dash VOM, you will see it read around 12.7 VDC for up to a minute or more. Once the electric preheater shuts down, there may (don’t quote me) be a delay of a few seconds or longer. Then the Alternator gets an OK signal or something switches and the alternator starts to charge the chassis….like normal. We occasionally get an OMG….Alternator broke and NOT charging topic. Simple….the engine and charging circuits are acting normal…..most never notice it or pay close attention. I have no idea how the Victron device or measuring circuit works….but, i would NEVER, EVER start a Monaco with the Chassis battery disconnected. That mischief COULD do some damage. My take. Start up the engine. Use the CHASSIS Voltmeter as designed. i have a digital one that Monaco incorporated into the gauge cluster or the center information display. I know exactly when the heaters turn off and watch the voltage jump up 13.9/14.0. As long as you see that happening….fine. Want a more precise number….hook up a VOM to a power plug and plug into the dash charging port…. SO, assuming you see the normal jump….and weather will play a big factor. If the WAIT TO START light stays on a long time, the longer the voltage stays low as the charging circuit is cut off. If all is well….then check the Victron. Odds are, you jimmied the system by not having all the Chassis power on and no harm done. Still get the alarm. Gonna have to figure out if the alternator is OK. I HAVE NO IDEA where the Victron is reading….or what the parameters are….but ther will be a short shot of up to 1,500 amps to the starter….on that you can depend.

I don’t quite get the same interpretation as posted. There is a lot of documentation on this if you google. Your screen dump is a note about a past version not being supported. MSFT often, much to my and other’s chagrin, updates “stuff”. Their interface (MSFT) is going to be revised or upgraded. Thus the support for the old 3X version will be phased out. My take. There is a newer version, provided by MSFT. It is “probably” more powerful and will allow many other app or software developers to utilize it. Thus….it is a really “great” upgrade. BlueFire is not, as I read, owned by MSFT. The “App Developer” used the 3X version which MSFT has to “allow” …..same as there is probably an equivalent Apple IOS “developer’s tool” (my layman’s definition is a specialized software program or interface. These are used to make a system (digital) interface and work with various OS’s. NOW….doing a little more “sniffing”, BlueFire LLC is well aware, as they have to rewrite the “code” for the super gee whiz 4.X version. If you google…..you’ll find this. Many times…..way to many to count, you get a “pop up” about some kinky little device that needs a “firmware” update….the BIOS on a PC is a classic example. Used to to do this with a disk or a flash. Finally, they figured out how to handle this “really tedious and dangerous” operation to happen seamlessly and it just….HAPPENS. You get the standard warning……DO NOT POWER DOWN OR TURN OFF…. Which implies that the whole device (PC) will loose a critical part of the bootup sequence….and if one doesn’t follow the protocol…..you have just executed the system… Bottom line. It APPEARS that BlueFire is on top of this. The $10 is just to handle the shipping…..and they MUST reprogram it on a special device….now….do they throw it away and give you a new one or can their “electonic” monster kill the old firmware and then “reflash” or reprogram it…..and it is NOT possible to do that with a PC? NO IDEA…. BUT BF is updating the adapter so it will work with the new one. AS the old LOST IN SPACE line goes….”Danger! DANGER!! Will Robbins”. As LONG as one doesn’t UPGRADE their Windows 10 and keeps the old “developers” software….which will no longer be supported (as in no more upgrades”…..then nothing needs to be done. BUT, if you let one of them pesky “auto updates” get loaded…..and you get ver 4X….your old hardware adapter ain’t gonna work. MSFT does this…..all the time. Apple does it. My wife’s ATS had a NEAT interface…..you used iTunes and we saved over 3,000 songs to our HD. Then you could make custom playlists and whatever and then “transfer” that to an older iPod. Version 6…. BUT….Apple kept upgrading the iTunes OS…..version 4 is now maybe version 12. Eventually, the new iTunes could NOT download all of our music and playlists and categories and such….I finally stopped updating. THAT’s my layman’s take. We have a lot of app and tech savvy folks that can explain or correct my simple overview…..

BINGO….IVAN to the rescue. To corroborate his comments ….read the following. https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=41023.0 it explains it in the opening….but folks drifted….and it, the lack of backlighting, was clarifed a few posts down… NOW, WE ALL KNOW!!! If KNOWLEDGE is POWER…..I and others will rule the world with the abundance of “seemingly trivia” stuff that is posted and we absorb….LOL

Mayhaps a link to the article or the “MSFT Buys Blue Fire” that you could post??? Blue Fire is a popular Video game. It is developed by ROBI Studios and published by Graffiti Games. See screen shot There is no Google INFO about MSFT buying the game, but it is popular on the MSFT XBox. Blue Fire video game is not affiliated with BlueFire (LLC) Diagnostic and Monitoring company… Goto BlueFire-LLC.com. No news there or on the financial sites about MSFT purchasing…..but HEY….one never knows. @Cajunboy1959…. The link for your information or the article stating MSFT has purchased BlueFire would be helpful….. Thanks.

Go to this post. It has the complete VIP wheel troubleshooting guide in a post. You can download it and see if it addresses the issues. If not, then contact VIP and ask their tech support. There is a common issue with the unit as in an internal part often needs replacement. That part is called “the clock spring”. if you use Clock Spring as the key words and use the search function at the top, you will find that many have done this and posted. Not sure if they went into details of the first srep….REMOVE COVER. Make sure you click on EVERYWHERE….when the drop down box pops up….choose TOPICS. Start to read or skim or scroll. If a poster (member) discusses removal…..chick on his ICON on the left. There is a popup and use the MESSAGE or “mail letter”. That will be a private email (or PM) to him offline. He will get an email from the site. Then you can mail back and forth or exchange phone numbers and talk, YOU can also google “VIP STEERING WHEEL COVER REMOVAL….there are many posts…odds are a YouTube video. Alternatively, try VIP STEERING WHEEL INDICATOR LIGHTS NOT WORKING. I highly suspect you’ll be overwhelmed with good info. Keep us posted and such. This is an issue that my memory can recall.

Circuit does not show any GFCI in the one impacted. Take a look at the print. Yes, GFCI are sometimes a nuance, but don’t appear to be involved….

LATE POSTING….we have the same system Odds are….the pressure switch on the compressor is corroded. Mine was that way new from factory. Here is picture of the OEM switch. Order it. Slide under MH on passenger side right in front of steps. You’ll see it. Pull off both wires. They are NOT polarized. Use a bent paper clip. Jumper the wires. ODDS ARE “what’s that Noise”….. if NOT….there is a fuse up front (don’t have my prints). Replace it. Then test with paper clip. However, almost 100% bet the switch is corroded. Replace it. Use zip ties and push the hose up until the switch is at the same height or level as the compressor. Moisture gets down into it. You will need to periodically drain the tank….you will see the valve. You can do this from the front. Read the manual. NEXT. Most experienced folks will lower corners. I prefer to manually level from there. Others use the AUTOMATIC. BUT, they, also turn OFF the system. Once your compressor’s working….it will drive you crazy. Even though the Valid is OFF, none of us that do this have ever had any sagging or drop. YES, your main system….parked long enough. Will leak down. But the Leveling system has never leaked. Mine has sat in storage for 6 months. The other Administrator, Frank McElroy haa the same system on his 08 Dynasty. Same results, That’s how we do it and we have been MH owners for years prior to purchasing our rigs, NEW….and understand the systems. Good Luck….Keep us posted.

I'd order the proper Breaker from Amazon. There was a REASON for the Mini Breakers that Monaco used....the ability to easily restore the circuits and see the BLOWN or OPEN TRIPPED breaker. YES...a Fuse will work...but when you are trying to troubleshoot and then start probing or pulling fuses, most folks WISH that they had the OEM item in place. YOUR MH...but my advice and also the wisdom of many of the GURU's here... YES, Ben @96 EVO The Dynasty and above all had the "nicety" of the remote start switch. That was just one of the THINGIES that Monaco left off on the Camelot and Scepter. I guess that the $100K or more difference in the MSRP had to include some items that were "cheap" but for whatever reason Monaco cut them on ours....but added them to the Dynasty... LOL....