Tom Cherry

Is it the LPT50BRD? Good deal….it is a low voltage switch. Great reliability…..the most commonly stocked one….

Odds are, from your post, without pulling the prints…..but doing a search here, you have an AIR OPERATED step well cover. There is a solenoid located near the middle or front cover. Not exactly sure….but keep reading Go to this topic https://www.monacoers.org/topic/5744-2005-scepter-step-cover-wont-extend-or-retract/ Read DaveyJo’s @daveyjo first post…..same issue as you. Then scroll down and read the two posts in the screen shot. PROBABLY a defective solenoid. The second post by Jim @jacwjames after it has a PDF on the valve. Click on it. That is the valve you are looking for. DaveyJo got it working. You might pull it off….use a 12 VDC source and cycle it a few times. NOW, the earlier Windsor’s were notorious for hydraulic valves issues. YES….this is air. But Monaco LOVED Teflon tape….if over the years an upstream chard worked its way down….bingo. Probably clean the valve. You can use a tiny shot of WD-40 (not the Silicone formula) or a smidge of a good contact cleaner to exercise the valve and get any debris out. Use your front air chuck with a hose and a “hand nozzle” and blow it out when open as well as close. Then, reinstall. The click indicates the coil is getting voltage….so, don’t go hunting for a wiring issue….mechanical in either a defective or clogged solenoid. You can always PM Jim or Dave and they can help you locate the solenoid. Good Luck….NOW…a Favor. Shoot a picture of where the solenoid is….and post it. Will help the next member. Keep us posted.

Great….one word of caution. There are “plumbing” brass fittings and DOT Approved Air Systems brass fittings. Most folks buy the fittings at a Truck Supply house and they are higher pressure DOT approved. You can, from time to time, find air and plumbing fittings at Lowes or a hardware store. Just be aware that the MH came with all High Pressure DOT approved fittings…. Temporary in the field….use them, long range….put back in the DOT approved ones….

I don’t remember which bank starts your Genny…. I THINK…. The House. If your work around is enough…great… BUT…the proverbial “teaching” moment…..is at hand.. You can, eventually, trouble shoot thusly…..and this is real world. First…you will need a helper and a VOM and probably a 50 ft or so length of #16 or #14 hookup wire with alligator clips on both ends. Helps to have both probe leads and alligator clip leads on the meter. Shinny under and hook up or hold the meter leads on the rear terminals of the Genny. Measure the voltage and record. Then, have your helper try to start the Genny. OK….repeat….except have then hold on the boost. Measure the voltage….then crank and note the voltage while cranking. ODDS ARE….you are gonna see WHY it will not start. That means….a bad cable or a bad switch (House Bank) or a bad connection. NOW….go back to the batteries. Again….measure the House….then have the helper try to crank the Genny. Record the voltages . Now repeat and have them hold on the boost. IF the House drops close to what you measured up front with the HOUSE only….time for new batteries. BUT if the House was 12.7 or so and hardly any difference with the boost ….then a down stream issue. Where…..hard to find…but you LEARN A LOT. If your disconnect switch kills the House battery…..then….go there. Measure each stud to a GOOD ground (you can run the hookup wire to the negative on the house bank). Should be less than 0.1 - 0.2 VDC if that much in the readings, NOW….put the leads across the terminals. NOW crank the genny. IF you get more than 0.1-0.2 VDC….bad switch. What is happening is there is a contact issue or high resistance in the switch. Since the house load is way less….you don’t NOTICE it. BUT it must be replaced. If you have electric motor or hydraulic motor slides, the bad switch is damaging the motors. The voltage there will drop or be low, under load, just like the genny. This causes the amperage to increase, exponentially…..and the motor will even fail. TRUST ME….this happened. My FIRST issue was a bad ground. But I eventually found out, after replacing the entire hydraulic pump package….the bad switch. Mine would work great….drive 1000 miles….great. Drive a mile….voltage drop. When I replaced the pump, I out in a selector switch and then put the hydraulic on the chassis, Just a few years ago, I discovered the bad switch…caught it when it was in the failure mode. Past that….what you then need to do….you measure the voltage across a set or terminals….or a cable…. Then start the genny. When you find a big voltage drop….then you fix or replace the connections or the cable. We have had folks that has an internally corroded cable. LOOKED GREAT…but it had a voltage drop…from end to end….under load. New cable….fixed. Cut old apart….found the wires “gone” or corroded…. It happens. Tedious process….but it works….and is the ONLY way to chase and troubleshoot…. Good Luck…

Good deal. ESCO may “advise” repairing, which is simple for almost anyone to do. They may determine that the parts or the age of the switch do not make it “cost effective”. In the past, after many back and forth sessions with the ESCO techs…including a couple of hours with their chief Design Engineer, they usually recommend, like when folks had the ill fated IOTA, that you install the LPT50BRD. Now, that was a while back…. But they do or did warn that if the “65N” was purchased instead that it “would/might/will” hum. How loud and how annoying….location and hearing of the occupants and such varies. To date…..as in over 15 years, only a few of the 65N were used for an IOTA replacement …and there was one or two that said….”gee, wish I had known that”. So that is the caveat…that many don’t know. ESCO will help you…and many, especially the early members of the Yahoo group really LIKED that model….even though it was only used a few years…..then Monaco switched to the IOTA on the lower end and the TRC Surgeguard…with a proprietary interface with the Aladdin, on the upper ends…. Now, you know “the rest of the story”….

Ben…. First…. Your system, which is the same as mine, works as you described….. and that is normal. And the only issue that I expect is to clean the Big Boy. I actually carry a spare. So….that is the way, in “theory”, that the Intellitec system was designed to work. As an aside, our Big Boy “sees” less than half the voltage….so when it gets hot and hums….it is totally different from the Dynasty or the system in Al’s Patriot thunder. His Big Boy will be more than HOT….you usually can’t keep your hand on it as it is HOT..not warm. And it is twice as loud when engaged or the HUM is pronounced. That is the way that Intellitec designed BOTH systems….and is normal…..lots of folks are not aware of this… But…if you go back and read Al’s post about his Patriot Thunder (basically same as any 05/06 Dynasty and up, @amphi_sc does not have “our” system. He has a dedicated #6 PCB for charging and boost and maybe one other function. His is not working, it appears, like it was designed. In theory….from a concept, the two systems should function the same. But in reality, his system is radically different and more complex than ours and Frank and Paul are two, perhaps we have others, of the best here, as well as in the country, that can repair the “out of production” board and reprogram it. It is simple for them as they have the “rig” to test…but when they replace the chip, which is probably 90% of the failures, they have to reprogram the new chip….sort of like reformatting the hard drive on a computer and installing a new OS. From experience, after a lot of “educatin” by Frank, I know how it works….and can assist in determining whether it is a board or Big Boy issue…but then hand off to someone else if it is a defective board. You probably already know this, but your comment provided a post to explain it so others with our system or the newer Dynasty can understand the differences. Thanks….

Kevin, The title was changed as many folks were asking questions and thinking or wondering about Kongsberg. The title change was preemptive to keep it focused However, it has been edited back to the original title with a tag line regarding CCM. We have numerous issues with folks NOT fully understanding specifically what you were talking about and then wandering off track. Frank very succinctly answered your question. Since he does not “promote” what he and Paul Whittle do, we often provide more information….sometimes for the OP and sometimes for the group following it so thy will learn as well. Frank also posted an explanation to provide clarity. In one of your subsequent posts, you commented on finding boards. These boards are rare and becoming rarer. The #6 board in the Rear Run controls the BIRD (BiDirectional) charging system. That board, since it is in use while driving or in storage, with power, is, I think, the most common failure. Frank and Paul repair these boards all the time. FWIW, going deeper, the #6 board is not a “just pop in a new chip”. After the chip is installed, it has to be reprogrammed and both Frank and Paul have the ability as well as the “setup” and the software to do that. Your call on buying boards…but be aware, the boards you buy probably have not been tested as very few folks can do that… Again, we have the two best resources, in my opinion, to repair ANY of the boards, in the country here. Your call on spares or such, but unless you arrange for a testing and return, you might be buying something defective… We, the moderators, will have members post a problem and go down the wrong path….as in “maybe a Kongsberg”. That was, to us, evident. However, the first question asked was “Kongsberg”, so this post offered a “teaching” opportunity so more folks would be knowledgeable. That’s it. This is often done. Typically, when a 2009 unit has issues, the title is edited to call out the K’B CCM. We also prefer a member’s signature include a CCM tag line so we know instantly if his year, which did include some 2008’s, was a CCM. That’s the logic….Sorry if it was confusing….you now, along with others, have a little more “Monaco” background…. Welcome aboard

You have the “Sherman Tank” of the ESCO ATS. Was used extensively. But, the main complaint was AC HUM and noise, Two AC coil relays. Hum is what it did….when new. Drove wives crazy…..and many complained. ESCO bought the LYGHT LPT50BRD. That is more popular due to the which is a low voltage, not 120 VAC line voltage model. Call ESCO. They still stock the parts and you can order it from them. Due to the age, we do not, I think, have the manual or Parts List. However, the ESCO tech support is great..one of best.

@Frank McElroy PM Him. If the three chips are standard and NOT programmed, he is a whiz at troubleshooting boards. This is not a complex board…. or perhaps @pwhittle. These guys can fix the Intellitec boards for the Dynasties…. All they can say is NO. Also contact Dinosaur Board. They do a lot of refurbishment….. Have you called NorthWest RV Supply and asked them?

Have you googled PDXRVWHOLESALE.com? They list parts for the SCS HVAC UNITS

Is that from SEA or a local vendor. The glass, has to be cut and then shipped to a distributor that can heat treat or temper it properly. For those that are unaware, when a piece of “tempered glass” BREAKS….a GaZillion piece of glass or beads. WHY? Safety. If you pop of the outside panes on the driver’s windows or a piece of an OEM Boat (runabout or big cruiser), it totally shatters and doesn’t impale you. SOLUTION… find a supplier, locally, that can cut “dual pane….laminated windshield glass”. Has to be the same thickness….which might be a problem. Done all time for side glasses…..as it is HARD to get an OEM replacement panel… OTHER SOLUTION….put in a Plexiglass panel. Use Double thickness…..might have to Laminate with a heavy duty double sided clear tape. If slightly thinner, use double stick tape to shim out where the frame is. Done ALL the time on boats. Eventually will have some UV haze… but WAY thicker. Sometimes a panel is “bowed” or has a slight twist. Had a boat windshield….looked perfectly flat. NOPE. My glass guy put in two exact temoered fit panes….when he tightened up the frame so the glass would swing out and latch….the stress shattered it. Plexiglass to the rescue…. My Plexiglass cost $50….a NEW panel, just the glass, from the boat builder…$450….

I would do a dual search. First, SEA is one of the top vendors still in business and has real customer service. TRAICO is the name of their parts guy (pronounced Tri-Co). He has been great. Second, YES….check out a local vendor. Don’t know what type of glass and such. BUT if you are disassembling, then be prepared to be a big spender and replacing any hardware with signs of wear over the years….

Depends on the "Failure". SS ain't the end all to end all. It has limitations. I have had the larger 3/16" SS Pop Rivets fail on the slide side wall. Even SS has a tensile strength limit. IF SS Drill Screws, and I don't know if they were or if someone replaced them...they will be slightly softer and easier to drill than a hardened Drill Point (commonly used by Monaco assemblers).

My advice….PM @Frank McElroy. He is the expert. You should set your battery type to the proper configuration. There is a file ….use Magnum as the key word in the search box. Then click on everywhere and select FILES. I wrote it as an aid. You can also call Magnum. Frank will have to address the strange behavior, but I, the slightly informed novice, think you have an issue with the board. MOST Big Boy coils, I THOUGHT, hum and or get hot….most of the time…

BEN….a definite NO NO. Read the manual for your system. We have the NON FULL 12 VDC Big Boy. There is a device on the swing out door in the rear run bay (the one with the knobs). It is a Intellitec BIRD Diesel2 module. It senses the voltages on each bank. It then controls the Big Boy. It sends out “Pulsed” voltage. Measure it….it will be 3 - 4 VDC. But, if you put it on a “scope”, it is a PURE 12VDC. But the length of the Pulse or the time ON is only 1/3 or about 3 - 4 VOLTS, averaged. BUT, if you push or HOLD the BOOST switch, there is a signal sent to the relay that drives the Big Boy and you get a FULL 12 VDC. Hold that down for maybe 5 minutes or shorter….Heat builds UP. Fries the coil. The specs on the Big Boy list CONTINUOUS current or full 12 VDC for maybe 30 seconds….don’t hold me to a precise number….the manual warns you. BUT, when the BIRD D2 Module kicks in….INSTANTANEOUS 12 VDC….that locks in the coil. Then after, say a second or so, it drops back and then the control circuit is the Pulsed voltage. You do NOT have the board (#6) on a 05/06 Dynasty and above that this post is about. NOW…..there were….on older models…..a 100A Big Boy. OK to have full 12 VDC. There were other “types”, misidentified as a “Big Boy” (Trombetta and White Rogers and others) that WERE full 12 VDC rated. The PURPOSE of this response is to WARN FOLKS. Never EVER put a stupid Golf TEE under a later model Monaco boost switch……you’ll damage the 200A Big Boy and/or “COOK” your Chassis Battery….when you are ON AC or GENNY. Thanks for bringing it up so we can get the word out….AGAIN….

Ask….and ye shall receive. There are all sorts of “thingies” that the car boys are putting on. There is USUALLY a high current fuse on the positive. I always carry a spare in every vehicle. NOW….this device is basically….a sophisticated “Battery temp sensor” with a “amp meter” probe….and a “bonus”….Voltage sensor. Critcial to the voltage regulation of your alternator…..it goes bad….you COOK your battery…. You can google it and there is a LOT of info, some wrong…LOL, about it and what all it does….

From a person that was the Chief Engineer for a Fastener company a d we designed and developed a variety of the infamous “Drill Scews” most likely used. Also this applies to some high performance self tapping screws. The material used in common bolts (grade 2) is garden variety. The heat treatment is simple. When you get into a “Tapping” screw, where the threads form or make threads in the material, there is a different grade used and the heat treatment is different. The case or the exterior portion of the screw that is “specially hardened” is around 0.008” (EIGHT thousand’s of an inch). The drill points are more… Thus, the exterior deforms the material that the screw is driven into. BUT….that Screw is BRITTLE as in would snap. The second part of the process is to draw down or decrease the brittleness in the interior or core. There is a second furnace used. It has a lower temperature than the first “hardening” furnace. The core is the. More ductile or is not brittle. BUT that sucker ain’t like a un hardened or soft bolt….NOW SS bolts are harder. So, you need a special CARBIDE TIPPED bit. A titanium coated bit, usually, ain’t gonna do squat. NOW….you have to go to a larger size screw….if you drill it out, most folks use a larger bit. OPPS…now the hole is too large. Many folks here have great experience. If you use a smaller carbide tipped drill and a lubricant….you MIGHT drill it and then put an “Easy Out” in it… There are blind, threaded flat rivets that you can buy on Amazon and they work great. Folks have used SS Pop Rivets. Just be aware, drilling out an Aluminum pop rivet is child’s play compared to a comparable sized SS one.

First, lets set the record straight. You are “mixing” things and its better for those reading this to understand the whole story. There is, I think, a file or two that goes into detail. Circa 2005 or so, Monaco “updated” ALL DYNASTY and above to TWO DIFFERENT “Intellitec” systems. The first….and which Frank alluded to, as well as the OP’s question is in the Front and Rear RUN BAYS. Don’t hold me to the numbers, someone needs to count….and it IS on the drawings, There are about 13 or so Front RUN Bay boards. There are about 8 or so Rear RUN bay boards. These are the BOARDS IN QUESTION. @Frank McElroy and @pwhittle are members that can, at a much lower “tip”, analyze and replace chips and reprogram these. In some cases, they also can “fix” a board that has a shorted out (OPEN) copper trace or the strips on the bottom. There is one other source, but their prices and credibility and quality has been called into question by some members as well as field techs who diagnose and isolate a board and ship it to them. We are FORTUNATE to have this resource here. Continuing…..the “upgrade” circa 2005/6 was “sporadic” at best. We have owners of 2005 Executives that have the ORIGINAL, Non Intellitec MH as wells as owners that DO. Supposedly, the higher ends were done first…then down the food chain. The RULE of thumb was that the Dynasty was a 2006 upgrade. BUT Monaco published TWO different manuals in 2005 for them. BOTTOM LINE…we have to ASK or have a member post pictures of the Front or Rear to determine which system….and, unfortunately, many responses or advice from the NON Intellitec owners is given to Intellitec owners…. Then the member with the problem is totally confused and frustrated as the component or circuit or whatever they are told to find….AIN’T IN THEIR MH. Moving along. The INTERIOR Intellitec Multiplexed Lighting and lighted key pads and Central Processing Unit and the “output modules” were also included…. The circuit boards in question here are NOT MULTIPLEXED….they are funky with all sorts of lights and test buttons and such….but they send out conventional Analog (12 VDC signals). OK….take a deep breath…..it gets WORSE. NOW…. You mentioned the infamous KONGSBERG CCM (Chassis Control Modules)that are in the FRONT RUN BAY. That eliminates the Intellitec boards….which is the issue. HOWVER..all but ONE of the Rear Intellitec Boards was also replaced. It is MY UNDERSTANDING, that only the #6 Intellitec Board in the REAR RUN bay was a “HOLDOVER” in the NEW (and improved?) CCM System. That, BTW, runs or controls the BIRD charging system and Boost and such… NOW….again, the inconsistency of Monaco comes out. SOME of the Dynasty in 2008, had a K’B CCM….a rare few….but out there. Supposedly, the SIG’s in 2008 WERE CCM. NOT ALWAYS TRUE. BUT, supposedly….all as in EVERY ONE of the 2009 models was CCM. Now….is this in concrete? NOPE. Sometimes an older model with “fall out” or be in a transition year and get “a next year model number”. So, we always ASK for photos to verify folk’s issues before we delve in….and hope that other contributing members understand the nuances …but unfortunately, many folks spend time hunting for something that is NOT on their MH, due to an inaccurate post. Sorry for the length….but sometimes a simple question has to be answered with “IT DEPENDS”…..Frank just posted with a comment….mine matches his and I just went into more detail and background….as this post can be used for information….

SORT OF A WHIMSICAL retort to the AUSSIE. I was at the NCAA Men Basketball Final Four in Phoenix a few weeks ago. We had a Jeep rental and were doing some sight seeing. My BIL was driving and is not exactly the most coordinated and he has difficulty in moving his head whilst driving... I do a LOT of praying when he is zipping downhill at 80 MPH and can't "see". He was in a hurry and handed me back our NP Golden Eagle Pass. He said here...and just dropped it. OPPS...I did not have time to grasp it. SO, it fell between the seat and the console. TOTALLY out of reach. I contrived a method of using duct tape (adhesive exposed) on a dowel to extricate it. We drove on and I caught up with a couple in a Class C. I conned them out of a foot of Gorilla Duct Tape. VERY NICE folks. They had just bought a used (26 years old) Caravan and Toad in Florida....and were driving back across the US and headed for California... The gentleman gave me a guided tour of the unit and how pristine it was. He then said that he had searched all over the US to find it. He went ON. As long as it was over 25 years OLD...it was considered as an ANTIQUE and NOT subject to import duties....which were unbelievable. As I understood it...these restrictions were set up by the Aussie government to encourage local manufacturing. SO, he could NOT afford to buy a newer Caravan in the US and import it as the cost would be prohibitive... We have NOT, to my knowledge, ever had an Aussie or a NZ'er post here. I DO know from a few trips to NZ and AU, the there are few, if any "NEW CARS". There is a trade agreement (or there was in 1995) that allowed older (2 -3 YO) Japanese (as in MADE IN JAPAN) cars to be imported with NO IMPORT fees. There was, said the economics professor that was our host, a tax on OLDER cars in Japan....so you had to sell or trade your car before it was, say 4 years or so old, otherwise there was a 25% tax....and then it escalated. Afterwards, I started looking at the cars.... ALL Japanese....very few German car brands. MAY NOT BE THE SAME NOW...but the RV Aussie owner, very astute and knowledgable.....gave me an ECON lesson in the Petrified Forest. BTW... I removed a plastic wand from the drapery in the hotel and "snuck" it out....but on the way to breakfast...it hit me. My old 4 finger "Tool Picker Upper" at home was shot. I bought a new one at O'Reilly's and extricated the credit card style pass in less than 15 seconds. I must have spent hours contemplating HOW to lift it up with various devices that I had on me. OK...back to fixing Monaco's here.... @96 EVO Ben, PLEASE TELL ME that you do NOT have an auxillary Chinese Diesel Heater in your Scepter... I worry about you... LOL...

Keith, Our MH's are complex and many folks don't have the electrical expertise to fully understand them. But, we all have to learn. Here is two resources for you as well as some help to improve your trouble shooting skills. First, you PROBABLY, I hope, have the owner's manual. If so, you have prints. If you scroll through the back of the manual, there is a print called DYN NAV EXE SIG Power Entry Step Wiring. I pulled this on from the 2003 Dynasty. FWIW. The Dynasty and UP all had the same basic wiring harnesses. There were items or features that were added to the upper ends, so they were INCLUDED on the prints....but specific for that model. The step is the SAME. Here is the print for yours... If your print is different, then Monaco made a change. BUT, most likely....this is it. Monaco made a MAJOR change in the electrical systems circa 2005/6. SO, odds are, any comments or help for those years might be a wild goose chase...or it might be right. SO, we, the Moderators, always find a set of drawing that is one year older or younger and we can help in 90% of the issues. There are typically at least 5 or 6 different "FUSES" in our MH. An Inline fuse is a glass fuse in a cylindrical holder or it can be a blade fuse in a socket. Next up are the Circuit Breakers. Monaco used the term "CB" and there are many in your MH. This is a device that will "trip" when something happens...but if the condition corrects itself, it then resets AUTOMATICALLY and all is well. Headlights is one of the issues. Next is a Mini-Circuit Breaker. Look on the print. There is a Mini -Breaker in the REAR RUN box (Plate). This is the 20 Amp one. It will be a "square" device...looks like a Relay. There is a lever or arm on it. When it trips, the lever will be hanging down or will be obvious that it has tripped. You can look at the surrounding ones... Their levers will be tight or close and that is the normal position. You push the lever back to where it is close to the body. BINGO....if is reset. NOW if there is STILL a "short" or issue, it will immediately TRIP again. It works exactly like a Circuit Breaker in your home panel. THIS IS THE POWER to the step. EDIT....another moderator just sent me a photo and I pulled two from my files. The TOCAS is a "Mini Style" breaker. It is a 150 Amp. Lower amperage ones may be "smaller". If you look at the second photo, the Auto RESET is the small black box on the circuit board. The final photo with the switch also has the "same" 150 Amp Breaker as the first. Look in the lower right corner and that is how it is installed. Your Dynasty may have them on a rack or a board....so look at the labels. END OF EDIT... Also NOTICE...there is a 5 Amp FUSE that provides an Ignition Signal. It is located in the Front Run bay. There are diagrams in the manual as well as in the prints that show the location. There is also a decal on every fuse block that lists the fuses. BOTH these have to work. So, that's it. NOW....continuing....there are TWO types of fuses on your MH, or at least on MOST. There are larger Mini Fuses....that have higher current. Don't know about the size...but if you see a black box with a lever (sometimes red or yellow) then it can be a Breaker or a Mini-Breaker. If the arm is tripped or hanging out...it is an open circuit. There MAY be long fuses.. BUSSMANN was usually the brand. You can see the fusable link (the part that melts) under the plastic cover. There is also a HIGH CURRENT FUSE that is connected to the Positive on your Inverter. In your case, it might be 300 Amp, 350 Amps or 400Amps. Monaco kept changing. THAT THE DRILL... NOW, to help you in the future....do some YouTube digging and you can learn to do electrical trouble shooting and how to use a Volt Ohm Meter. You will have, unless you intend to have a tech fix everything, to learn to use a VOM. YouTube has probably 100 Videos... NEXT UP. Here is the prints or the 2003 Dynasty. I would download them. This print has one valuable tool....you can SEARCH for any specific item....like STEP. The person that supplied us with them did a "WORD" Index as the first page. He listed the drawing name and the page of the PDF that they are in. If you look at any Adobe Reader.. there is a FIND TEXT OR TOOLS (magnifying glass) in the upper right corner. Put in STEP and hit enter. It will show you EVERY print that has the word "STEP" in it. A WHOLE LOT quicker than scrolling through. If you don't know how to use this Adobe feature, google it and learn. it is a TIME SAVER. That's it. Good Luck. Here are the 2003 Dynasty Drawings... 2003 Dynasty and UP Step diagram.pdf

All I know is that the “goto” Proflex sealant, from memory, said “NOT FOR ACRYLICS”. In addition Fantastic Fans specified the DiCor Lap Sealant….which is self leveling. I know, from talking to tech support at Geocell and DiCor, that these two caulks or sealants are compatible and will cross link and bond. If you use the recommended sealant, without consulting with their tech support, as well as GeoCell, the, I THINK, supplier for the OEM installation, then you may have to totally abrade and solvent clean the area to ensure a complete adhesion…..and in the future, have to only use the Surebond on the skylight. You can pull down the tech data sheets and installation instructions one all three products. I have a background in industrial and construction and roofing and I did a lot of online research as well as talking to vendors before I installed my new FF vent covers and also the compatibility of the ProFlex and Dicor. What I posted was based on many hours of research..and this ain’t my first rodeo. So when i post information, it comes from my engineering background as well as hands on experience and knowledge…l It was posted as a aid and based on many posts here on the skylights and waterproofing and leak issues. This is your project so, whether you use the experience of myself and many other members is your call. OK….curiosity and technical knowledge is a curse. Too much research…. https://www.natconusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Acryl-R-SM5504-TDS.pdf This is what was used as the caulk or sealant for your skylight. ACRYL-R. In your manual. It is a solvent based sealer. It is an Acrylic and not a butyl rubber. The Geocell 2300 was used for all other joints, save the windshield. The “low VOC” Proflex is compatible with the Geocell 2300. But NOT nor was intended for use on an Acrylic surface….like the skylight….. Surebond is a Butyl Rubber product, but it dries or skins over similar to both the Proflex and DiCor 501LSW materials… It is still, as the ACRYL-R, a “solvent based”. It has about have the amount of pure VOC or solvents in it. PERSONAL OPINION. It will probably bond or crosslink with the OEM ACRYL-R. I would make a judgement call as I worked and not go crazy and rip up good caulk or the OEM. Cleaning the OEM, as long as still bonded, with mineral spirits or acetone will activate the surface and promote bonding or crosslinking. Get RID of any other “not the right stuff” caulk. Many folks throw silicone to seal….the absolute worst thing to do. The Di-Cor 501 LSW will work and be compatible with either. Don’t know the viscosity of the SureBond. The OEM ACRYL-R sort of flowed out like thick molasses and it is easier for me to do a good job as it is easier to work with….as is the Di-Cor. I pulled the MSDS and tech specs and instructions on all 4…just to compare. Thats my opinion and understanding of them and their type and intended usage. Good Luck..

Wow, you sound industrious….sometimes a blessing….others call it a curse. First….for you edification and also to help you use the sight… https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=Shower skylight&quick=1&type=forums_topic I used the search box in the upper right. I used two key words. Shower and skylight. I then clicked on everywhere….and chose “TOPICS”. Here is the results. Take some time and click on each one. Then scroll up or down and get the gist of the topic….often times the titles are a bit misleading or the “intent” of the topic sort of shifted. Takes a little time, but you will find a world of help as to how others accomplished what you intend to do. If you haven’t downloaded the PARTS LIST….do a search. Use PARTS. This time select FILES from “everywhere”. Now, look at the top of the first page and check the Adobe Reader tools. There is a FIND….as in a key word or phrase. I would do two. Skylight and Shower. That will list the vendors folks have used….so, you have a LOT of relavent information….as some might not respond as they are busy. Folks here, memory, have done some unique and perhaps NON MONACO OEM “things”. I will comment on two that struck me. First the sealant. Ordinarily PROFLEX is the sealant that most use. Somewhere in my mind, a warning pops up. DO NOT USE ON ACRYLIC. That came from getting freebie kits to replace the covers on the Fantastic fans. They sent me DiCor “EPDM” LAP SEALANT. FF said that was their choice…as this was a large “customer complaint” resolution. The original sealant, probably called out in your manual….a great resource….was GeoCell. It is a “volatile cure” sealant and the industry switched over to Non Volatile and GeoCel(L) developed ProFlex. So read up on what was used originally. The original GeoCel was an industry standard. It was more vicious than most others and Monaco would “squirt” it generously and it would crawl or “self level”. The new proflex is thicker and won’t spread or self level as nicely or neatly. However, the DiCor Lap Sealant is closer to the OEM Geocel and spreads and levels and you don’t have to do as much “touch up” or spreading. Another thing many of us have learned….be careful and do NOT tear up what ain’t broke. We often touch up or recoat the flange sealant on the roofs. We use blue painters tape and go about an inch out and make a “box”. Then you clean the old sealant or caulk with Simple Green. If there is black mold or mildew (common in the south from pine trees) a little bleach (diluted say 5 - 10 to ONE) will remove the stain and you get better adhesion with the new sealer. I go stronger and use Bleech White (outside and ventilated) and it really cleans the existing caulk of sealer. Rinse thoroughly. Then let it dry and Lightly recoat the entire area. The original sealer will have some “entraned” air or bubbles. Easy to seal them. ONE point..as you get to the edge of the blue tape masking….use a 1” of so putty knife and taper the thickness….that way you have a thinner edge or thickness against the blue tape. Let it cure. Then as you remove the blue tape, use a razor blade and CUT, not tear the caulk…neater and more waterproof. Never have i totally scrapped up or peeled up every square inch of sealer. If the caulking is adhered well, then the new top coat of sealer or caulk will crosslink and it is totally “waterproof”. If you have to use a lot of muscle and putty knives and literal “cut off” the caulking….odds are…it is OK. NOW some folks have used EternaBond to tie or seal down the flange. This DOES require scrapping and chipping off all and getting a clean firm flat surface. Imhave done that a few places. BUT I use Acetone (SPARINGLY) and a small bristle brush. The acetone dissolves the loose caulk as well as “primes or activates” the surface area. Then EternaBond adheres well. That my take on it….. Good Luck.

YEP. We are on the same page. This is called, and I have wired them in many houses, a “LINE VOLAGE Thermostat. Was meant to work, at least the ones I used, on 240 or 120 VAC. Two incoming contacts….two outgoing contacts. All you need to use is the “switched” contacts. HOWEVER, some were Dual Pole….so when the diaphragm closed the switch….BOTH contacts closed. So, use a VOM and verify or look at instructions. Honeywell or Johnson Controls makes the same….in degrees F. BUT many did NOT have an OFF. You need one with an off position. That is the only way to salvage a botched RecPro install if the control module and wiring have been botched or destroyed. But, you need to “hide or disguise” the cable….thus snake or run down a closet or such. #14 wire is fine. All the T’Stat does is make or break a circuit….

OK….GENERIC. Somewhere behind or near and under the battery box, there are TWO ground studs with at least one 4/0 cable connected….maybe a few more. One is the HOUSE and one is CHASSIS. Loosen or remove both….clean and reassemble….obviously turn OFF both the house and chassis positive disconnects. that happened to me. You have diagnosed it correctly…. BUT. Go up front ALSO. Chase the cables from the rear studs and clean the ground one and check the positive one. Everything worked fine and had ample battery for inverting….but the corroded House ground stud in the back was it. Spray the studs with Battery Corrosion protectant…

OK…ASSUME that you mean the AC POWER BOARD…. 3109229.009. We call that the CONTROL MODULE. Use this link. This is “PROBABLY” the one you need….item 46. https://rvpartsexpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/Roof-Mount-HVAC-Parts-List-3307768-014.pdf NOW to be sure…you need the Model Number and SN. You call Dometic or either someone like in the picture or BryantRV (google Bryant RV Air Conditioner Parts. Call them and verify that is the board is the correct PN….FOR YOUR UNIT! Then you can shop. Amazon usually sells them cheaper….but you need the CORRECT (Verified) PN. No one, to date, here has commented, memory, on troubleshooting and rebuilding the boards….but that is not a 100% bet money on it statement…. DON’T ASK….whatever is below is something that Apple put in and I can't delete from iPD. DISREGARD.