Tom Cherry

OK….FWIW…there are TWO Topics, in my ooinion that are getting similar posts….did not do a deep dive and see if the same posters or others were the same. There is an ongoing theme. I’m adding that tooic to this post. The other topic has some good info on the existing Valid compressor. The Dynasty in 2007, had issues….and is a totally differnt system than the 2008….and if the 2007 system is NOT maintained…it will allow water (not just vapor) to collect and get imto the rear braking system. I posted that scenario a few years back. So, too keep folks properly informed….it is suggested that those intersted or commenting read or scroll the other thread…..more good information makes for more imtelligent recommendations….not going to merge or combine….but just give a heads up…. NOW….AS A BOGO….There have been several other topics where the Aux Compressor is discussed….be aware, the 2007 Dynasty has a totally different compressor. The 07, memory, does NOT have a drain valve….here is the search results….. https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=Valid dynasty water&quick=1&type=forums_topic Click and there is a wealth of past posts and information…..technically, we request that such searches be completed prior to a new topic….

First off. You have the Intellitec Diesel BIRD….OR “DIESEL” Module. The newer ones were called “Diesel2”. Some minor upgrades. It cal called the Charg(ing) Controller. Now That is in a picture. Do NOT sweat that there is no wire on Generator. Monaco or Intellitec “thought” that dual charging was a NONO. Best guess….they copied another MH or were misinformed or”lacking knowledge”. Bottom line….the Genset wire doesnt exist on the later ones….so cross that off. Next. The isolator is totally NON FUNCTIONAL. It is just a “connection stud”. The infamous WHITE wire should trace back to the Coach Battery Terminal on the Charging controller. It is just an INPUT. Same goes for the IGNITION. It is the input from the Ignition….as in when the MH is running…..as in, then the module is monitoing the Coach Bank and the Chassis (when running) bank. OK….that leaves ONE wire. This is the RELAY or it goes to the Battery Bank BOOST Solenoid. Trace that wire…..I HOPE it goes directly….but it MIGHT go to one of the two relays (black boxes). Here’s how it works…. The LATER edition battery Boosts were 200 Amp Solenoids….NOW…it appears that the White Rogers solenoid is the BOOST or Inerconnect solenoid. Your cropped and blown up photos don’t show the PN. Google it. Then post a link or a screen shot of the spec sheets. In essecnce, the Charging Controller is measuring the voltage on each bank. As long as one needs a little juice….then it tells the “Relay” to close or energize the coil. NOW….as stated…the Diesel and Diesel2 had some differences. You can test this. The 200 Amp solenoid that Jim described was typically a 200A ONLY INTERMITTENT….not continuous. SO, if you fed it a full 12 VDC….it burned up the coil. SO, Intellitec sent out a Pulsed or ON/OFF 12 VDC. The duty or ON time was around 25 - 33%. Therefore if you used a DVOM….it “looked” like a low voltage signal. NOPE… but it measured about 3 - 4 VDC. That lower pulsed version kept the coil happy. BUT WAIT….what else does that Big Boy or Battery Connection or JUMPER switch do? It is the Battery BOOST switch up front. So it NEEDED a full 12 VDC. But….read the manual. Do not hold it on for too long. Some “less than well informed” MH owners got the brilliant thought….I’ll put a Golf Tee under that spring loaded switch….I’ll have BIRD Charging. YEAH RIGHT. Maybe for a day or maybe longer…but then they burned out the COIL and fussed at the “life expectancy” of the solenoid. MY Circuit….probably similar to yours. Time for MORE caffeine. There is PROBABLY a Bosch relay. Terminals 85 and 86 are positive and negative from the BOOST switch. Push in that spring loaded switch….the relay coil is energized…..the. There is a FULL 12 VDC going to the “solenoid”. From a relay standpoint…..terminal 30 is connected to terminal 87A when the relay is NOT powered or the coil is not energized. BUT, energize the coil…..then terminal 30 goes to terminal 87. Got all that? When the BIRD system is operationlas….the “relay” signal, probably pulsed, goes to terminal 87A…..then terminal 30 has power and goes to Jumper or BOOST solenoid….so all are charging….assumng AC (Gnerator acts the same as AC) or the engine is running. NOW….OPPS….you need a BOOST. Assuming there is enough power on the HOUSE side….as the up front switch gets the power (positive) from the HOUSE….then there is a power wire that goes back to coil. The Bosch relay closes….and BINGO, there is FULL (non PULSED” 12 VDC going to terminal 87….and since 30 and 87 are “closed”…..then the 30 wire closes the jumper or boost….with a full 12 VDC. THAT is how it works, then later on, it hit Monaco. OMG….if we would use CHASSIS voltage (hot….not ignition switched), we would have FULL TIME BIRD charging….remember the module decided WHEN to engage based on the condition of BOTH Banks. NOW…you say that you have DUAL charging. Simple. No ignition on….no AC PLUGGED IN….NO GENNY ON. Cover the solar or pull the charging wires. IT GETS TRICKY…. Pull the positive on the house….after you turn OFF DISCONNECT….NOW measure to ground….each side of the solenoid. One is ZERO. HOUSE. The other is 12.7 or so….the Chassis….now you know. Hook back up the house bank….turn on the disconnect….plug in to shore….you will see a higher voltage on the house. 13.1 to over 14.x. That means the house is charging….but the “ignition signal is or should be ZERO on the Diesel module (ignition off’. That is normal. Unplug AC…..measure….still 12.7 or so on each side. Now start the engine…wait 5 minutes or so. Remeasure….should be 13.7 - 14.0 or so…chassis is chargine….voltage the SAME ON BOTH SIDES. Again….folks have different outlooks and different ways of accomplishing things, if YOUR system is working as above….it is fine, I have NO IDEA how soemone rewired it. Likewise, you said the stsrting current was fine, with, as they should be, BOTH BANKS ON. In my opinion….no need to make an emergency call to “Ghost Busters”. It ain’t BROKE…. You may have one of the “gee, how’d we mess up”…many folks might…but they don’t have the “Victron”. So nothing to alert them. If you could get enough 2002 owners to test…..how many OK’s vs “DAD GUM….it did start?” NO IDEA…except Monaco acknowledged it happens…but not gonna fix as the WRONG STARTING PROTOCOL WAS USED. That horse is hurting….but it seems to be reviving…. NOW…..NEXT UP….to comment on Jim’s Blue Seas suggestion. The cheap simple Blue Seas ACR works great. It is reliable….it is robust….it has good tech supoort. BUT…as always….understand the CONS. First….your up front Boost switch is now worthless. ME, I would just say…OK. If I needed a boost, get out….go to the ML-ACR…set it to manual…..after no longer needed….back to AUTO. BUT of yow want a full “fledged” boost and remote control, then you run a 4 or 5 wire loom or cable from the ML-ACR and drive on. I could. I am happy the way my Intellitec BIRD works….I will not fix what ain’t broke. But, we have a LOT of fans. Now, if a solenoid or charging module goes bad….I make a Fix VS Replace financial decision and factor in the DIY labor….I have done way worse and way more complicated….I Just choose NOT TO DISCOVER AMERICA…again. One FINAL comment. All it would take to give you a complete DUAL CHARGE or BIRD SYSTEM. Pull the IGNITION wire. Run a wire from the HOT Chassis Bank Stud….(you can use the chassis stud on the solenoid). Hook it up to IGNITION. You have the SAME system that Monaco started to install later on and the EXACT configuration as the 2008 Camelots and up. Really Simple….but this rascal is so complex….that the simple change overwhelms some….and they are concerned…. That’s it. I’d run my test….charging, as it should…as wired….then it ain’t broke….want a REAL BIRD system….swap wires. Good Luck….

Have you read the manual. The prints show a Magnum inverter. I just downloaded your manual. As usual, Monaco allowed different favorites to do different things. Your rig was most likely an Elkhart MH. You have the Freedom. Go to page 307. There is one circuit breaker for the incoming power. This comes from the 30 A breaker in the main panel. It is labeled on the inverter. You havevTWO “BREAKERS” on the LEFT SIDE. ONE is for the Mirowave. The other is the interior outlets. If you look at the JUNCTION box called out….that powers the Bedroom and the outlets that are not wotking. Use your VOM and verify power in the bedroom. Follow the line from the junction box to the upper left. Do you have power there. you must determine a starting point and trace the circuits and go through the junction boxes. Your description is not exactly clear to me. If you have microwave power….one circuit is good….and whichever circuit’s breaker on it is OK. YOU can turn OFF one of the breakers. Microwave off and circuit 1 off….now you know. Then you focus on the OTHER” CIRCUIT. If you don’t have a VOM, then use a cellphone charger and see which outlers work. Print out the diagram and test every one…Mark them on the print. Take a picture and post it we can see. Mark it heavy … you need to read the manual. We need more specific information. Thanks

I stick with my theory. The “isolator” did not provide the starting current, even if energized or engaged. I know that from working on a similar rig. The direct 4/0 cable from the Chassis Bank to the starter lug delivers that 1500 or so amp current. YES….if the isolator was powering the low current, under 200 Amps to “rest” of the chassis circuit….the. It was “technically” in the entire circuit…but not being overloaded. With the alleged mods….who knows. But even if 100% OEM, there were certain MH’s…not a lot that would start like Todd’s. In addition, Monaco would tell owners….not a warranty issue…if you follow the correct procedures as in “both banks” on. But, if you or Todd, find a mod that is causing this, please post as others might benefit….

Cool. UNLESS someone did a “Mod”, then you have one of the “rare….but OEM” units that WILL start, although it isn’t, according to the old time Monaco Tech Support….supposed to. As many state here, you have a SNOWFLAKE… when operated correctly, all is fine. What alerted the Camelot owner was the gauges acting erratically. Your may NOT if the “glitch” or wiring error was different. This situation can be a learning or teaching moment. If it doesn’t start….don’t always assume a dead battery. BOTH switches should be ON. If the gauges or any other electrical abnormalities occur….I THINK that the Camelot would not allow the tranny to shift…or maybe the Allison pad was dead…..this is a 13 YO recollection. Then SHUTDOWN and start with the basics. Glad it is solved…..based on Monaco’s comments….you would have been alerted to an abnormal condition….. BUT, my take, what caused the issue, as previously posted. The “lockout” on the charging circuit was NOT energized….as it is is powered from the chassis bank and the “ignition” switch and the entire starting system being properly “ON”. Since it wasn’t, the intake heaters were on when the starter was engaged and the delay, as in the “wait to start” sequence had not been allowed to “run the proper” cycle. Thus, the power hungry toaster elements were ON….and the starter was engaged. PURE SPECULATION….your battery must have been GOOD….as in the engine started WITH the heaters on. I may be wrong….others will or may chime in, but that abnormal or non standard condition alerted our Victron…. SO, a reminder to all. If you routinely turn off the batteries, both or just one bank, turn them BACK on. Curious….do you ordinarily see a “wait to start” light? Mine is temperature sensitive. If so snd it didn’t happen when the spike occurred….then that verifies my theory. If NOT….as Monaco said….”we don’t know….just follow the manual”. Thanks for the feedback….

FWIW…..the fog cleared a little this morning. Early after joining, I helped some fellow owners of 2009 Camelot’s with a few “strange” conditions. Jim’s comments sort of rang a bell. We had one owner that did, frequently, turn off the Chassis battery, thinking, even on shore….with a 100% “functional” Intellitec BIRD or BiDirectional charging system, that he was protecting the chassis battery. His rig would start. I was, offline, in contact with 3 or so other 09 owners. NONE of our rigs would start. We all tested and repeated. The individual with the condition also reported erratic conditions after starting that showed up on the gauge cluster. I then contacted Monaco tech support. This happened after the Navistar purchase and the same prebankruptcy personnel had been recalled and were there. Their comment. It “AIN’T” SUPPOSED TO HAPPEN…and they said it was not a condition that was ONLY a Camelot/Scepter issue….but happened on several models over the years. Bottom line…..”don’t try to start” with the Chassis OFF. Quote….in is not something that is supposed to happen, but it does…..and we never got a good answer. That was circa 2011….. Fast Forward. Now after looking at high current prints on just about every model goin back to 2000…. Jim brings up a good point. The Chassis Battery is NOT switched ON or OFF going to the starter. That would take a 2000 Amp disconnect switch. BUT, the Chassis Disconnect switch has to be ON to provide power to the entire Chassis circuit. That power is what sends the start signal via the ON ignition switch to the rear and energizes the RRB. Without pulling prints, there is a signal to the starter solenoid and “something” is now providing power to at least that section of the Chassis circuit. This comment is sort of a reach back in time….but based on the circuit. In addition, there is a Neutral Safety Start signal and relay involved. Whether this Windsor has the same “wiring discrepancy (s) that one Camelot had and it is wired “per the OEM prints” or whether someone “modified” a circuit or such, I don’t know. What I DO know is that the 09 Camelot had a functional BIRD system….as I learned how to “troubleshoot” that system from the Intellitec tech support tech….and he was good and patient…..but, he had a coronary and the “candy” shop took over troubleshooting. SO….all that to say… I DO KNOW that the Big Boy Solenoid was NOT engaged or closed with the Chassis disconnect OFF as in the Big Boy was not passing current or in effect, jumpering, the batteries. OK…..cutting to the chase…based on what I personally know today…. this may, for this one Windsor, be NORMAL. Many other Windsor owners might disagree….and for their rigs, be correct. All i know for certain, Monaco tech support said it infrequently happened…almost rare….but it DID and on a MH right out of the factory. SO, chasing a wiring error, only on a few units out of a model year, will be challenging….unless one knows the circuits and has the prints and can find the “opps, shouldn’t have been here” connection. Next up, addressing the comment about the “Victron” being the equivalent of the Magnum BMK….which is a shunt based system. I admit to being less than well versed on aftermarket additions. Unfortunately, I and many contributors have tried to lend assistance to folks that said “Victron”….and yes, now that I see the screen, that does make sense. However, we had situations where there was a variety of “Victron” devices and it was only after a lot of frustration on my and other contributor’s part did we realize that the OEM “systems” had been virtually gutted…..and all our comments about look here and do that just lead to frustration on the other end. The STOCK RESPONSE, we usually make is….What mods have been made and provide pictures. Then usually a member with specific knowledge of that add on(s) will take over and usually go offline as the bulk of assistance given here is for the OEM components. So, I appreciate the update. But, fundamentally…..the “don’t do this” advice from the Monaco tech support and my recommendation still stands. Follow the operating procedures in the manual, Monaco, or the “device’s” manual. If that eliminates the problem and no harm has been done….unless you have a high IQ in electrical/electronics and can follow the schematics and then manually troubleshoot….then best to move on. Sorry for the length….but some posts are considered as “teaching moments” and members learn the basics and the contributions here are more focused and relevant. Todd….please let us know if the spike or alarm happens when both switches are on. No one, way back when, when your MH was built was using a BMK or Shunt based monitor….I don’t know when Magnum added the kit to their line, but I don’t recall the BMK initials being used to much later….mid 2010’s or so. I really don’t think there is an issue…just an abnormality in your wiring and when all is correct, the alarm doesn’t sound off… Thanks…

OK….MY 2 CENTS. First, the Chassis switch is only for the “other stuff”. There is direct 4/0 cable from the Chassis to the starter lug. That does not go through the House Disconnect. However, there is also another (probably 4/0) that goes through the Chassis disconnect. It “runs” the Chassis stuff….some high drain stuff and fuses. FWIW, there is also a heater element inside the air intake. That element is like a high performance toaster. Once the engine starts to warm up, it cuts out. There is a “circuit” that is designed to protect the charging circuit….as not burning up or overloading the alternator. If you watch your dash VOM, you will see it read around 12.7 VDC for up to a minute or more. Once the electric preheater shuts down, there may (don’t quote me) be a delay of a few seconds or longer. Then the Alternator gets an OK signal or something switches and the alternator starts to charge the chassis….like normal. We occasionally get an OMG….Alternator broke and NOT charging topic. Simple….the engine and charging circuits are acting normal…..most never notice it or pay close attention. I have no idea how the Victron device or measuring circuit works….but, i would NEVER, EVER start a Monaco with the Chassis battery disconnected. That mischief COULD do some damage. My take. Start up the engine. Use the CHASSIS Voltmeter as designed. i have a digital one that Monaco incorporated into the gauge cluster or the center information display. I know exactly when the heaters turn off and watch the voltage jump up 13.9/14.0. As long as you see that happening….fine. Want a more precise number….hook up a VOM to a power plug and plug into the dash charging port…. SO, assuming you see the normal jump….and weather will play a big factor. If the WAIT TO START light stays on a long time, the longer the voltage stays low as the charging circuit is cut off. If all is well….then check the Victron. Odds are, you jimmied the system by not having all the Chassis power on and no harm done. Still get the alarm. Gonna have to figure out if the alternator is OK. I HAVE NO IDEA where the Victron is reading….or what the parameters are….but ther will be a short shot of up to 1,500 amps to the starter….on that you can depend.

I don’t quite get the same interpretation as posted. There is a lot of documentation on this if you google. Your screen dump is a note about a past version not being supported. MSFT often, much to my and other’s chagrin, updates “stuff”. Their interface (MSFT) is going to be revised or upgraded. Thus the support for the old 3X version will be phased out. My take. There is a newer version, provided by MSFT. It is “probably” more powerful and will allow many other app or software developers to utilize it. Thus….it is a really “great” upgrade. BlueFire is not, as I read, owned by MSFT. The “App Developer” used the 3X version which MSFT has to “allow” …..same as there is probably an equivalent Apple IOS “developer’s tool” (my layman’s definition is a specialized software program or interface. These are used to make a system (digital) interface and work with various OS’s. NOW….doing a little more “sniffing”, BlueFire LLC is well aware, as they have to rewrite the “code” for the super gee whiz 4.X version. If you google…..you’ll find this. Many times…..way to many to count, you get a “pop up” about some kinky little device that needs a “firmware” update….the BIOS on a PC is a classic example. Used to to do this with a disk or a flash. Finally, they figured out how to handle this “really tedious and dangerous” operation to happen seamlessly and it just….HAPPENS. You get the standard warning……DO NOT POWER DOWN OR TURN OFF…. Which implies that the whole device (PC) will loose a critical part of the bootup sequence….and if one doesn’t follow the protocol…..you have just executed the system… Bottom line. It APPEARS that BlueFire is on top of this. The $10 is just to handle the shipping…..and they MUST reprogram it on a special device….now….do they throw it away and give you a new one or can their “electonic” monster kill the old firmware and then “reflash” or reprogram it…..and it is NOT possible to do that with a PC? NO IDEA…. BUT BF is updating the adapter so it will work with the new one. AS the old LOST IN SPACE line goes….”Danger! DANGER!! Will Robbins”. As LONG as one doesn’t UPGRADE their Windows 10 and keeps the old “developers” software….which will no longer be supported (as in no more upgrades”…..then nothing needs to be done. BUT, if you let one of them pesky “auto updates” get loaded…..and you get ver 4X….your old hardware adapter ain’t gonna work. MSFT does this…..all the time. Apple does it. My wife’s ATS had a NEAT interface…..you used iTunes and we saved over 3,000 songs to our HD. Then you could make custom playlists and whatever and then “transfer” that to an older iPod. Version 6…. BUT….Apple kept upgrading the iTunes OS…..version 4 is now maybe version 12. Eventually, the new iTunes could NOT download all of our music and playlists and categories and such….I finally stopped updating. THAT’s my layman’s take. We have a lot of app and tech savvy folks that can explain or correct my simple overview…..

BINGO….IVAN to the rescue. To corroborate his comments ….read the following. https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=41023.0 it explains it in the opening….but folks drifted….and it, the lack of backlighting, was clarifed a few posts down… NOW, WE ALL KNOW!!! If KNOWLEDGE is POWER…..I and others will rule the world with the abundance of “seemingly trivia” stuff that is posted and we absorb….LOL

Mayhaps a link to the article or the “MSFT Buys Blue Fire” that you could post??? Blue Fire is a popular Video game. It is developed by ROBI Studios and published by Graffiti Games. See screen shot There is no Google INFO about MSFT buying the game, but it is popular on the MSFT XBox. Blue Fire video game is not affiliated with BlueFire (LLC) Diagnostic and Monitoring company… Goto BlueFire-LLC.com. No news there or on the financial sites about MSFT purchasing…..but HEY….one never knows. @Cajunboy1959…. The link for your information or the article stating MSFT has purchased BlueFire would be helpful….. Thanks.

Go to this post. It has the complete VIP wheel troubleshooting guide in a post. You can download it and see if it addresses the issues. If not, then contact VIP and ask their tech support. There is a common issue with the unit as in an internal part often needs replacement. That part is called “the clock spring”. if you use Clock Spring as the key words and use the search function at the top, you will find that many have done this and posted. Not sure if they went into details of the first srep….REMOVE COVER. Make sure you click on EVERYWHERE….when the drop down box pops up….choose TOPICS. Start to read or skim or scroll. If a poster (member) discusses removal…..chick on his ICON on the left. There is a popup and use the MESSAGE or “mail letter”. That will be a private email (or PM) to him offline. He will get an email from the site. Then you can mail back and forth or exchange phone numbers and talk, YOU can also google “VIP STEERING WHEEL COVER REMOVAL….there are many posts…odds are a YouTube video. Alternatively, try VIP STEERING WHEEL INDICATOR LIGHTS NOT WORKING. I highly suspect you’ll be overwhelmed with good info. Keep us posted and such. This is an issue that my memory can recall.

Circuit does not show any GFCI in the one impacted. Take a look at the print. Yes, GFCI are sometimes a nuance, but don’t appear to be involved….

LATE POSTING….we have the same system Odds are….the pressure switch on the compressor is corroded. Mine was that way new from factory. Here is picture of the OEM switch. Order it. Slide under MH on passenger side right in front of steps. You’ll see it. Pull off both wires. They are NOT polarized. Use a bent paper clip. Jumper the wires. ODDS ARE “what’s that Noise”….. if NOT….there is a fuse up front (don’t have my prints). Replace it. Then test with paper clip. However, almost 100% bet the switch is corroded. Replace it. Use zip ties and push the hose up until the switch is at the same height or level as the compressor. Moisture gets down into it. You will need to periodically drain the tank….you will see the valve. You can do this from the front. Read the manual. NEXT. Most experienced folks will lower corners. I prefer to manually level from there. Others use the AUTOMATIC. BUT, they, also turn OFF the system. Once your compressor’s working….it will drive you crazy. Even though the Valid is OFF, none of us that do this have ever had any sagging or drop. YES, your main system….parked long enough. Will leak down. But the Leveling system has never leaked. Mine has sat in storage for 6 months. The other Administrator, Frank McElroy haa the same system on his 08 Dynasty. Same results, That’s how we do it and we have been MH owners for years prior to purchasing our rigs, NEW….and understand the systems. Good Luck….Keep us posted.

I'd order the proper Breaker from Amazon. There was a REASON for the Mini Breakers that Monaco used....the ability to easily restore the circuits and see the BLOWN or OPEN TRIPPED breaker. YES...a Fuse will work...but when you are trying to troubleshoot and then start probing or pulling fuses, most folks WISH that they had the OEM item in place. YOUR MH...but my advice and also the wisdom of many of the GURU's here... YES, Ben @96 EVO The Dynasty and above all had the "nicety" of the remote start switch. That was just one of the THINGIES that Monaco left off on the Camelot and Scepter. I guess that the $100K or more difference in the MSRP had to include some items that were "cheap" but for whatever reason Monaco cut them on ours....but added them to the Dynasty... LOL....

@Steven 53 OK....here what you need, or the closest that I think there is. This is from my 2009 Camelot. However the VIP wheel was probably the same... Look at the print below. This is the "CLONE" of what Monaco did.... You will see the VIP heel circuit on the left side. Remember that I told you to find the output from the HI/LO switch. That is the LAST switch before you get to the Headlights. That is why you want to find the output of it and use it for the relays. Adding the RELAYS always improves the headlight performance....and it takes a LOAD off the HI/LO switch....I would do that no matter what....and many have and were very happy with the results. When you measure voltage....it needs to be the LOAD. yes...12.8 or so is great...but WHAT is the voltage at the bulb socket. How about some folks have measured in the mid 10's....so always measure LOAD voltage or when the device is ON....that goes for every current drawing device on the MH. YES....there may be other issues. I stated to pull the wires or the harness on each headlight or bulb and TEST the circuits. I agree with folks about the connector. There have also been issues in the harnesses from the steering column to the outside. BUT, these were NOT WORKING..... as on a faulty connection or an open circuit.... Never BLOWING FUSES. One final helpful thing....the TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE. You can use this to TEST or check the VIP circuit. UNFORTUNATELY, well meaning but uniformed former owners or at least a small to middle percentage of techs also do NOT understand and don't want to look at prints or troubleshoot or understand. They probe and find wires and then figure... "Hey, I'm smarter than the Engineer that designed it." YES, there are a few circuits on the Monaco that defy logic and YES, I think that I could do better....but no one asked. SO....study the print. Then study the troubleshooting guide. I would VERIFY that the VIP controller and the outputs are correct. IF NOT....Time to get it fixed or get a new one.... YES, you might be able to reconstruct what was undone....but try to follow the print and use "needles" or straight pins and test the various wires. Good Luck... TWO of the best resources that you need to really fix it. Keep us posted... Headlights and Fog lights.pdf

OK…here is what others have done. First…you need TWO Bosch 5 Pin relays. You need Sockets with #12 Wire. Do a little hunting….Amazon has them BOTH. I buy the REAL OEM Bosch relays….they are often listed as 87/87A. Order 2 inline (blade type) fuse holders. MUST BE #12 (or 10) wire… NOW this assumes you have separate BULBS….in that there is ONE Bulb for the LOW and ONE for the High. There is two wires that come off the HI/LO switch. Find them. One goes to the LOW and one goes to the HIGH. Unplug them. Test them. When the blue indicator light is ON….one will have 12 VDC. Likewise when you go to LOW, you should have power to the LOW. NOW if a single bulb, it will be a 3 wire….one will be HIGH….the other is LOW the LOW will alsways be ppwered….the High is switched. You can also just use a VOM and do some probing at the headlight housing. Either setup….you have to locate the power to the LOW and the HIGH. Here’s the circuit. Pins 85 and 86 are the relay coil terminals. Ground out either 85 or 86. Lets say 85 will be the ground. Then run the Low beam signal or power to the 86. Now when you turn on the headlight switch….the LOW beam wire energizes the Relay. Likewise, run the HIGH beam power to the other relay….Pin 86. You need to locate the HOT CHASSIS STUD up front. I would put a crimped ring terminal on one side of each Fuse Holder. The OTHER Side or the FUSED side of the inline holder goes to PIN 30 of each relay. So we have ONE 20 Amp fused lead connected to Pin 30 of each relay. OK….NOW it is assumed you have marked each relay…..LOW and HIGH. Pin 87 is where you attach the leasd going to each circuit or bulbs. HIGH beam wire ( which you cut) goes to Pin 87 of the HIGH beam relay….and the LOW BEAM wire, to the Low beam headlights goes to pin 87 of the LOW BEAM relay. The relay now switches on or off the headlights. Each power feed to each relay has a 20 A fused connection. BINGO….you have FULL Power as in when the engine is running, you will have almost 14 VDC….and NO internal resisatnce. That works……many folks have done it…..probably way over a Hundred….so not some “maybe this will work). If the main fuse blows….something is a miss in the switch. If the new inline blows….you have a short or a chafed wire in the housing… DO IT and let us know….this is the ULTIMATE mod to brighten up the poor headlights. BTW… this works for an LED Bulb….SOME are polarity sensitive….you reverse the plug….

MY DW sits after she pulls close enough for the tow bar hookup. She refuses to be involved. I do have her sit in vehicle and turn on and off the ignition…..then finally start engine and put in reverse and rev up….repeat for drive. So, I functionally test neutral before we start the trip. Likewise she pulls up and then after total disconnect of bar and umbilical, I reach in window and restore it from NEUTRAL. A real MARRIAGE saving protocol….LOL….

First....I lucked out when I went searching. Here is the 120 VAC outlet layout.... and FWIW, that is QUITE a find and Monaco was stingy on many prints. This should help you start tracing... From the prints....these are NOT GFCI controlled. Look at the INVERTER. There are THREE push button or pin circuit breakers. ONE is 30 A incoming. The other are TWO 20A outgoing. Check there. IF you have power in the REAR (Bedroom)....as in the line from J-Box 7 (B), then you have either an issue in that box or at the ENT Receptacle.... BUT, odds are... CB. Check that. Then pull the ENT (Entrance?) Receptacle. IF you have incoming power, it may be those stupid Manufacturing Home outlets. Change to a residential... The print is great....now the work begins....where do I have power and where have I lost it. BUT, at least you have a good roadmap. I also included the entire file in the following download. FWIW, If you open the entire file....use the FIND in the upper right. I put in GFCI and this print was the first that popped up. JUST what I needed.... 120 VAC Layout Dip & End and others.pdf

From some quick reading as well as having a smidge of experience....and also knowing a few design folks at Holley...back in the days of carburetors. MAYBE. OK...did a little googling....then some more. Here is an interesting thread..... https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7274 You might want to google "Holley Floatless Gauge Motor Home" or maybe try Tractor Trailer. I'd call them and discuss. The Centroid unit is what is used in all Monaco's. As long as the Analog signal from the Holley unit is in the same range or sends out the proper signal, then all should be well. There MAY be a "Fuel Gauge" that Holley makes that you might be better off with. All the gauge clusters that we have are from about 4 or so vendors. NOW, they are set up to work with the same, seemingly, sender. BUT, Monaco MAY have specified one particular Centroid unit for certain model years. THIS is where it gets tricky and confusing. If you used a phone or a flex camera and got the Centroid PN off the sending unit....then you should be able to get the specs on the output and such from Centroid. THEN, cross reference or call Holley and see if their floatless works or has that output. IF you knew who made your gauge cluster and the model (probably on the back of one of the clusters), then you could call the vendor and find out the fuel gauge input range. Sometimes, based on age, they may not have the prints....but most of the time.... YES. Great question. Maybe someone will chime in and has done the drill....otherwise... do it and we all will learn. Thanks

Yes, Don did that and the OEM folks and he decided NOT to replace it. The original design of this switch always had a "60 Hertz" buzz or hum. NEW or after awhile. Don's started making a LOUDER noise...so he worked with ESCO and made the call. I would not guarantee, based on reading what folks have posted that tightening will fix it....nor will putting in a new one. It was not exactly a design defect...but sort of an unintended consequence. BUT, the 65N is very robust....and if you don't sleep over it....then it does not bother you...or if you have a severe hearing impairment and don't, of course, wear your devices at night....it doesn't bother folks. A few, I think, actually say it works as "White Noise" Totally agree with your logic and such...but the characteristics of it and this spans over 20 years does not always "fix it", for some, like NEW or out of the box...it did it. Thanks for the insight...

I am NOT an expert...but many folks at our gathering are well informed and have worked on their systems. The way that the systems are "SUPPOSED" to work... and getting adequate heat is the common complaint.... When you want MAX HEAT, you turn the control to MAX AC. You rotate the temperature Valve to MAX HEAT. That activates or causes the control on the water valve to close the valve. We recently had a Valve issue and the member contacted the system vendor and found out that the controller was bad. There was a plastic gear inside and the teeth were stripped. It was FINE in the heat zone....but would NOT turn off. It actually made a clicking sound and you could hear the controller cycling....trying to complete the FULLY OFF command. You MIGHT have someone slowly rotate the COOLING or Temp knob and make sure that the heater control valve is functioning. I know this works this way....as I complained for years...but then knowledgeable folks explained it and BINGO...I have have great heat in the colder temps while driving. Here is a link to the recent threads. They might give you some insight... You can use a key word or word....like Heater or Heater Valve or Hot Water Control. THEN click on EVERYWHERE and choose TOPICS. That will give you a list of all the posts....you then skim and start reading and focusing on the ones that address or discuss your problem...

The Guardian Plates (or that name) are only manufactured by Talin. Chris Throgmartin is the owner and member here. I have included him in this post so that he is aware of the issue.... They are specifically designed to take care of the moisture infiltration as well as "refurbish" the under layer of the slide where it contacts the rollers. Chris spent many years experimenting and many of us beta tested or provided feedback as they were being developed and improved. Many shops have alternatives, I'm sure...but most are thin aluminum plates. Some shops actually installed the "Trim Plates" that you see on residential doors. Just putting a plate on the bottom does NOT correct the deficiency in the side seam and interface of the panels. USUALLY, it is water infiltration here that causes the damage...and that water deterioration is very expensive to repair as the floor is a "foam sandwich". It is NOT like floor joist system in a home or a studded wall. The best insurance against costly repairs is to fix, as they should have been from day one, the seams on the side walls. YES, some of us have had some scarifying or damage to the lower underlayment...which is barely 3/16" and has an almost micro plastic laminate coating. BUT, the real benefit is that there will never be any water infiltration at the side seams. Yes... I have installed three sets of them....each in a different style of slide...and I understand a bit about the issue... Chris @throgmartin FYI as to some concerns. Thanks....

SOME of the better ATS with Surge will give you an ERROR code. You will have to get the EXACT PN or Model from the ATS....IF you believe it is a Surge Style. Call the manufacturer and test. Richard is correct. I rarely have had a Surge fail...but several of the ones that I put in our church have bit the dust as the power is crappy and there are often line surges. BUT, I recently DID have a Surge fail. I use a Bekin (Belkin?) Cube Surge on EVERY Item in the home that has a digital display....save the TV's and Computers on a LARGE USPS unit. The one on the Kitchen Microwave DIED....Wife PANICKED. It was the SURGE and the TWO Green Lights...."Shone no more". Simple....the MOV's died. We have had a few owners with the more advanced SurgeGuard ATS, from say 2006 (Dynasty) and up that got error messages. They WERE electronically inclined. They removed the old MOV (Looks like a capacitor....memory says) and then installed new ones. ALL IS WELL. My only advice... I had the OEM SurgeGuard Pedestal model in 2006. It was the STATE of the ART. NOT CHEAP. I started or joined here in early 2009....and in a few years was asked to moderate...and have been doing that eversince. I read ALL the information on the SG. It did NOT have any "warning" light. Coincidentally, I became acquainted, locally, with Tommy Fannelli... He was the TOP or Chief Field Rep for TRC/SurgeGuard and BOY....was he getting an earful at show and rallies. The units were not exactly RELIABLE. The MOV's were dead. SO....NADA. You COULD send it back...and then, if they could repair it....pay 50% of the cost of a new one....if it was OK, you paid a Shop Charge. Tommy's brother was an EE. They designed (probably did a little copying) and then came out with the Progressive Industries products. That was the MOST advanced Surge unit on the market and there was a BUILT IN ONE. I scoffed until I started looking at the specs. I had actually "HARD WIRED" mine and installed in inside the bay....as I got tired of locking the sucker up every time...and some pedestals were so low, it would not "mount or sit" vertically as required. Then, I but the bullet. NIGHT AND DAY. I have the ORIGINAL one. Tommy sent me a few BETA boards to test some new features. Eventually, I got the latest "WE SELL THIS" board now. It has saved me more times than I can recall....especially when the Bay Door (mine swing out) opened up....only on the power of the gas strut. That little tap hit the power plug. NO NEUTRAL. I troubleshot the entire MH and finally....got out the BIG WIRE cutters. Put on the Camco REPLACEMENT. All is well. I have moved at least 20 times when the power was too low. Not many of the CG or the folks that are maintenance have an electrical background. They say.... your rig must have one of them stupid meters that is always wrong. BUT, then I move...one guy said... You know..we're getting a LOT more of these complains....but when I move folks to the new section that was wired up last year....that goes away. HONEST to whomever you trust....he said that. So, as long as you have a Suppressor and you have read the manual or called the manufacturer and know if there is an "ERROR" or some lights that will come on when the electronics are shot or the MOV's are dead....you are good to go. BUT, failing to do that, then the Progressive or another, trusted brand, that displays error codes or lights is what I would install and not have all the redundancy. There are SOME manufactuers that state, unequivally, that having an TWO Surge Suppressors, one plugged into the other, actually DEFEATS their ability to function. That is what Progressive said....NO INTERNAL surge suppressors are NEEDED if you have their pedestal or hard wired model. That's a much as I can tell you. Hope this helps...

OK….THINK OUT OF THE BOX…. Do you have a TRC SurgeGuard ATS (kind with Surge Suppression)? If so….the MOV’s may be suspect. If a NON Surge Protection ATS….AND NO Surge Suppressor?.?. Then, I’d consider a Progressive HW50C. It has your “gauges”…..but it also protects your electrical devices from about 10 or so “fatal or semifatal” conditions…..the ugly one is an OPEN NEUTRAL. We have had maybe 100 - 150 plus incidents over the years. Most were pedestal issues, but many were internal….simple thing like a small “tap” to the 50A molded plug that opened the Neutral. YES…happened to me. You then can measure 150-175 VAC on BOTH sides (L1 & L2) of the two 120VAC lines. UGLY does it an injustice describe. YES….adding the current taps will solve your original problem. But if you do NOT have Surge protection…..and if you have the TRC, then you may have to “fix” it. The Progressive, and now current “knock offs” was the FIRST unit designed for plug in or hardwired….with FIELD Serviceable “boards”. Plug and play and you have error codes. Just a thought….you’ll spend less time installing a GOOD surge protector and get the benefits. BTW…an open neutral typically, if not caught, do upwards of $1000 damage….and one member topped $10,000. The TV and electronics….like the Microwave do NOT tolerate 150-175 VAC LONG. Also the AC motors do not like it…. Your MH….Your situation….but also some background on the most expensive and common “failure”…

I ain’t no tech…but I did frequent the “Weller” plant as it was in my division and I had responsibilities for many functions there. Got to know the designers. A Weller low wattage soldering station is your friend. They kept giving me the newest model to use at home and critique. I’d start with the Capacitors…..they die first. I fixed more “DEAD” LED TV’s than I can remember buy using an eBay kit and replacing all of them. DEWICKING mesh is your friend…. Then check the resistors….but typically they will “tell” you. Good Luck. If you fix it…write it up….pictures and such. We’ll put in the files,…