Tom Cherry

@Steven 53 OK....here what you need, or the closest that I think there is. This is from my 2009 Camelot. However the VIP wheel was probably the same... Look at the print below. This is the "CLONE" of what Monaco did.... You will see the VIP heel circuit on the left side. Remember that I told you to find the output from the HI/LO switch. That is the LAST switch before you get to the Headlights. That is why you want to find the output of it and use it for the relays. Adding the RELAYS always improves the headlight performance....and it takes a LOAD off the HI/LO switch....I would do that no matter what....and many have and were very happy with the results. When you measure voltage....it needs to be the LOAD. yes...12.8 or so is great...but WHAT is the voltage at the bulb socket. How about some folks have measured in the mid 10's....so always measure LOAD voltage or when the device is ON....that goes for every current drawing device on the MH. YES....there may be other issues. I stated to pull the wires or the harness on each headlight or bulb and TEST the circuits. I agree with folks about the connector. There have also been issues in the harnesses from the steering column to the outside. BUT, these were NOT WORKING..... as on a faulty connection or an open circuit.... Never BLOWING FUSES. One final helpful thing....the TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE. You can use this to TEST or check the VIP circuit. UNFORTUNATELY, well meaning but uniformed former owners or at least a small to middle percentage of techs also do NOT understand and don't want to look at prints or troubleshoot or understand. They probe and find wires and then figure... "Hey, I'm smarter than the Engineer that designed it." YES, there are a few circuits on the Monaco that defy logic and YES, I think that I could do better....but no one asked. SO....study the print. Then study the troubleshooting guide. I would VERIFY that the VIP controller and the outputs are correct. IF NOT....Time to get it fixed or get a new one.... YES, you might be able to reconstruct what was undone....but try to follow the print and use "needles" or straight pins and test the various wires. Good Luck... TWO of the best resources that you need to really fix it. Keep us posted... Headlights and Fog lights.pdf

OK…here is what others have done. First…you need TWO Bosch 5 Pin relays. You need Sockets with #12 Wire. Do a little hunting….Amazon has them BOTH. I buy the REAL OEM Bosch relays….they are often listed as 87/87A. Order 2 inline (blade type) fuse holders. MUST BE #12 (or 10) wire… NOW this assumes you have separate BULBS….in that there is ONE Bulb for the LOW and ONE for the High. There is two wires that come off the HI/LO switch. Find them. One goes to the LOW and one goes to the HIGH. Unplug them. Test them. When the blue indicator light is ON….one will have 12 VDC. Likewise when you go to LOW, you should have power to the LOW. NOW if a single bulb, it will be a 3 wire….one will be HIGH….the other is LOW the LOW will alsways be ppwered….the High is switched. You can also just use a VOM and do some probing at the headlight housing. Either setup….you have to locate the power to the LOW and the HIGH. Here’s the circuit. Pins 85 and 86 are the relay coil terminals. Ground out either 85 or 86. Lets say 85 will be the ground. Then run the Low beam signal or power to the 86. Now when you turn on the headlight switch….the LOW beam wire energizes the Relay. Likewise, run the HIGH beam power to the other relay….Pin 86. You need to locate the HOT CHASSIS STUD up front. I would put a crimped ring terminal on one side of each Fuse Holder. The OTHER Side or the FUSED side of the inline holder goes to PIN 30 of each relay. So we have ONE 20 Amp fused lead connected to Pin 30 of each relay. OK….NOW it is assumed you have marked each relay…..LOW and HIGH. Pin 87 is where you attach the leasd going to each circuit or bulbs. HIGH beam wire ( which you cut) goes to Pin 87 of the HIGH beam relay….and the LOW BEAM wire, to the Low beam headlights goes to pin 87 of the LOW BEAM relay. The relay now switches on or off the headlights. Each power feed to each relay has a 20 A fused connection. BINGO….you have FULL Power as in when the engine is running, you will have almost 14 VDC….and NO internal resisatnce. That works……many folks have done it…..probably way over a Hundred….so not some “maybe this will work). If the main fuse blows….something is a miss in the switch. If the new inline blows….you have a short or a chafed wire in the housing… DO IT and let us know….this is the ULTIMATE mod to brighten up the poor headlights. BTW… this works for an LED Bulb….SOME are polarity sensitive….you reverse the plug….

MY DW sits after she pulls close enough for the tow bar hookup. She refuses to be involved. I do have her sit in vehicle and turn on and off the ignition…..then finally start engine and put in reverse and rev up….repeat for drive. So, I functionally test neutral before we start the trip. Likewise she pulls up and then after total disconnect of bar and umbilical, I reach in window and restore it from NEUTRAL. A real MARRIAGE saving protocol….LOL….

First....I lucked out when I went searching. Here is the 120 VAC outlet layout.... and FWIW, that is QUITE a find and Monaco was stingy on many prints. This should help you start tracing... From the prints....these are NOT GFCI controlled. Look at the INVERTER. There are THREE push button or pin circuit breakers. ONE is 30 A incoming. The other are TWO 20A outgoing. Check there. IF you have power in the REAR (Bedroom)....as in the line from J-Box 7 (B), then you have either an issue in that box or at the ENT Receptacle.... BUT, odds are... CB. Check that. Then pull the ENT (Entrance?) Receptacle. IF you have incoming power, it may be those stupid Manufacturing Home outlets. Change to a residential... The print is great....now the work begins....where do I have power and where have I lost it. BUT, at least you have a good roadmap. I also included the entire file in the following download. FWIW, If you open the entire file....use the FIND in the upper right. I put in GFCI and this print was the first that popped up. JUST what I needed.... 120 VAC Layout Dip & End and others.pdf

From some quick reading as well as having a smidge of experience....and also knowing a few design folks at Holley...back in the days of carburetors. MAYBE. OK...did a little googling....then some more. Here is an interesting thread..... https://newellgurus.com/showthread.php?tid=7274 You might want to google "Holley Floatless Gauge Motor Home" or maybe try Tractor Trailer. I'd call them and discuss. The Centroid unit is what is used in all Monaco's. As long as the Analog signal from the Holley unit is in the same range or sends out the proper signal, then all should be well. There MAY be a "Fuel Gauge" that Holley makes that you might be better off with. All the gauge clusters that we have are from about 4 or so vendors. NOW, they are set up to work with the same, seemingly, sender. BUT, Monaco MAY have specified one particular Centroid unit for certain model years. THIS is where it gets tricky and confusing. If you used a phone or a flex camera and got the Centroid PN off the sending unit....then you should be able to get the specs on the output and such from Centroid. THEN, cross reference or call Holley and see if their floatless works or has that output. IF you knew who made your gauge cluster and the model (probably on the back of one of the clusters), then you could call the vendor and find out the fuel gauge input range. Sometimes, based on age, they may not have the prints....but most of the time.... YES. Great question. Maybe someone will chime in and has done the drill....otherwise... do it and we all will learn. Thanks

Yes, Don did that and the OEM folks and he decided NOT to replace it. The original design of this switch always had a "60 Hertz" buzz or hum. NEW or after awhile. Don's started making a LOUDER noise...so he worked with ESCO and made the call. I would not guarantee, based on reading what folks have posted that tightening will fix it....nor will putting in a new one. It was not exactly a design defect...but sort of an unintended consequence. BUT, the 65N is very robust....and if you don't sleep over it....then it does not bother you...or if you have a severe hearing impairment and don't, of course, wear your devices at night....it doesn't bother folks. A few, I think, actually say it works as "White Noise" Totally agree with your logic and such...but the characteristics of it and this spans over 20 years does not always "fix it", for some, like NEW or out of the box...it did it. Thanks for the insight...

I am NOT an expert...but many folks at our gathering are well informed and have worked on their systems. The way that the systems are "SUPPOSED" to work... and getting adequate heat is the common complaint.... When you want MAX HEAT, you turn the control to MAX AC. You rotate the temperature Valve to MAX HEAT. That activates or causes the control on the water valve to close the valve. We recently had a Valve issue and the member contacted the system vendor and found out that the controller was bad. There was a plastic gear inside and the teeth were stripped. It was FINE in the heat zone....but would NOT turn off. It actually made a clicking sound and you could hear the controller cycling....trying to complete the FULLY OFF command. You MIGHT have someone slowly rotate the COOLING or Temp knob and make sure that the heater control valve is functioning. I know this works this way....as I complained for years...but then knowledgeable folks explained it and BINGO...I have have great heat in the colder temps while driving. Here is a link to the recent threads. They might give you some insight... You can use a key word or word....like Heater or Heater Valve or Hot Water Control. THEN click on EVERYWHERE and choose TOPICS. That will give you a list of all the posts....you then skim and start reading and focusing on the ones that address or discuss your problem...

The Guardian Plates (or that name) are only manufactured by Talin. Chris Throgmartin is the owner and member here. I have included him in this post so that he is aware of the issue.... They are specifically designed to take care of the moisture infiltration as well as "refurbish" the under layer of the slide where it contacts the rollers. Chris spent many years experimenting and many of us beta tested or provided feedback as they were being developed and improved. Many shops have alternatives, I'm sure...but most are thin aluminum plates. Some shops actually installed the "Trim Plates" that you see on residential doors. Just putting a plate on the bottom does NOT correct the deficiency in the side seam and interface of the panels. USUALLY, it is water infiltration here that causes the damage...and that water deterioration is very expensive to repair as the floor is a "foam sandwich". It is NOT like floor joist system in a home or a studded wall. The best insurance against costly repairs is to fix, as they should have been from day one, the seams on the side walls. YES, some of us have had some scarifying or damage to the lower underlayment...which is barely 3/16" and has an almost micro plastic laminate coating. BUT, the real benefit is that there will never be any water infiltration at the side seams. Yes... I have installed three sets of them....each in a different style of slide...and I understand a bit about the issue... Chris @throgmartin FYI as to some concerns. Thanks....

SOME of the better ATS with Surge will give you an ERROR code. You will have to get the EXACT PN or Model from the ATS....IF you believe it is a Surge Style. Call the manufacturer and test. Richard is correct. I rarely have had a Surge fail...but several of the ones that I put in our church have bit the dust as the power is crappy and there are often line surges. BUT, I recently DID have a Surge fail. I use a Bekin (Belkin?) Cube Surge on EVERY Item in the home that has a digital display....save the TV's and Computers on a LARGE USPS unit. The one on the Kitchen Microwave DIED....Wife PANICKED. It was the SURGE and the TWO Green Lights...."Shone no more". Simple....the MOV's died. We have had a few owners with the more advanced SurgeGuard ATS, from say 2006 (Dynasty) and up that got error messages. They WERE electronically inclined. They removed the old MOV (Looks like a capacitor....memory says) and then installed new ones. ALL IS WELL. My only advice... I had the OEM SurgeGuard Pedestal model in 2006. It was the STATE of the ART. NOT CHEAP. I started or joined here in early 2009....and in a few years was asked to moderate...and have been doing that eversince. I read ALL the information on the SG. It did NOT have any "warning" light. Coincidentally, I became acquainted, locally, with Tommy Fannelli... He was the TOP or Chief Field Rep for TRC/SurgeGuard and BOY....was he getting an earful at show and rallies. The units were not exactly RELIABLE. The MOV's were dead. SO....NADA. You COULD send it back...and then, if they could repair it....pay 50% of the cost of a new one....if it was OK, you paid a Shop Charge. Tommy's brother was an EE. They designed (probably did a little copying) and then came out with the Progressive Industries products. That was the MOST advanced Surge unit on the market and there was a BUILT IN ONE. I scoffed until I started looking at the specs. I had actually "HARD WIRED" mine and installed in inside the bay....as I got tired of locking the sucker up every time...and some pedestals were so low, it would not "mount or sit" vertically as required. Then, I but the bullet. NIGHT AND DAY. I have the ORIGINAL one. Tommy sent me a few BETA boards to test some new features. Eventually, I got the latest "WE SELL THIS" board now. It has saved me more times than I can recall....especially when the Bay Door (mine swing out) opened up....only on the power of the gas strut. That little tap hit the power plug. NO NEUTRAL. I troubleshot the entire MH and finally....got out the BIG WIRE cutters. Put on the Camco REPLACEMENT. All is well. I have moved at least 20 times when the power was too low. Not many of the CG or the folks that are maintenance have an electrical background. They say.... your rig must have one of them stupid meters that is always wrong. BUT, then I move...one guy said... You know..we're getting a LOT more of these complains....but when I move folks to the new section that was wired up last year....that goes away. HONEST to whomever you trust....he said that. So, as long as you have a Suppressor and you have read the manual or called the manufacturer and know if there is an "ERROR" or some lights that will come on when the electronics are shot or the MOV's are dead....you are good to go. BUT, failing to do that, then the Progressive or another, trusted brand, that displays error codes or lights is what I would install and not have all the redundancy. There are SOME manufactuers that state, unequivally, that having an TWO Surge Suppressors, one plugged into the other, actually DEFEATS their ability to function. That is what Progressive said....NO INTERNAL surge suppressors are NEEDED if you have their pedestal or hard wired model. That's a much as I can tell you. Hope this helps...

OK….THINK OUT OF THE BOX…. Do you have a TRC SurgeGuard ATS (kind with Surge Suppression)? If so….the MOV’s may be suspect. If a NON Surge Protection ATS….AND NO Surge Suppressor?.?. Then, I’d consider a Progressive HW50C. It has your “gauges”…..but it also protects your electrical devices from about 10 or so “fatal or semifatal” conditions…..the ugly one is an OPEN NEUTRAL. We have had maybe 100 - 150 plus incidents over the years. Most were pedestal issues, but many were internal….simple thing like a small “tap” to the 50A molded plug that opened the Neutral. YES…happened to me. You then can measure 150-175 VAC on BOTH sides (L1 & L2) of the two 120VAC lines. UGLY does it an injustice describe. YES….adding the current taps will solve your original problem. But if you do NOT have Surge protection…..and if you have the TRC, then you may have to “fix” it. The Progressive, and now current “knock offs” was the FIRST unit designed for plug in or hardwired….with FIELD Serviceable “boards”. Plug and play and you have error codes. Just a thought….you’ll spend less time installing a GOOD surge protector and get the benefits. BTW…an open neutral typically, if not caught, do upwards of $1000 damage….and one member topped $10,000. The TV and electronics….like the Microwave do NOT tolerate 150-175 VAC LONG. Also the AC motors do not like it…. Your MH….Your situation….but also some background on the most expensive and common “failure”…

I ain’t no tech…but I did frequent the “Weller” plant as it was in my division and I had responsibilities for many functions there. Got to know the designers. A Weller low wattage soldering station is your friend. They kept giving me the newest model to use at home and critique. I’d start with the Capacitors…..they die first. I fixed more “DEAD” LED TV’s than I can remember buy using an eBay kit and replacing all of them. DEWICKING mesh is your friend…. Then check the resistors….but typically they will “tell” you. Good Luck. If you fix it…write it up….pictures and such. We’ll put in the files,…

Is it the LPT50BRD? Good deal….it is a low voltage switch. Great reliability…..the most commonly stocked one….

Odds are, from your post, without pulling the prints…..but doing a search here, you have an AIR OPERATED step well cover. There is a solenoid located near the middle or front cover. Not exactly sure….but keep reading Go to this topic https://www.monacoers.org/topic/5744-2005-scepter-step-cover-wont-extend-or-retract/ Read DaveyJo’s @daveyjo first post…..same issue as you. Then scroll down and read the two posts in the screen shot. PROBABLY a defective solenoid. The second post by Jim @jacwjames after it has a PDF on the valve. Click on it. That is the valve you are looking for. DaveyJo got it working. You might pull it off….use a 12 VDC source and cycle it a few times. NOW, the earlier Windsor’s were notorious for hydraulic valves issues. YES….this is air. But Monaco LOVED Teflon tape….if over the years an upstream chard worked its way down….bingo. Probably clean the valve. You can use a tiny shot of WD-40 (not the Silicone formula) or a smidge of a good contact cleaner to exercise the valve and get any debris out. Use your front air chuck with a hose and a “hand nozzle” and blow it out when open as well as close. Then, reinstall. The click indicates the coil is getting voltage….so, don’t go hunting for a wiring issue….mechanical in either a defective or clogged solenoid. You can always PM Jim or Dave and they can help you locate the solenoid. Good Luck….NOW…a Favor. Shoot a picture of where the solenoid is….and post it. Will help the next member. Keep us posted.

Great….one word of caution. There are “plumbing” brass fittings and DOT Approved Air Systems brass fittings. Most folks buy the fittings at a Truck Supply house and they are higher pressure DOT approved. You can, from time to time, find air and plumbing fittings at Lowes or a hardware store. Just be aware that the MH came with all High Pressure DOT approved fittings…. Temporary in the field….use them, long range….put back in the DOT approved ones….

I don’t remember which bank starts your Genny…. I THINK…. The House. If your work around is enough…great… BUT…the proverbial “teaching” moment…..is at hand.. You can, eventually, trouble shoot thusly…..and this is real world. First…you will need a helper and a VOM and probably a 50 ft or so length of #16 or #14 hookup wire with alligator clips on both ends. Helps to have both probe leads and alligator clip leads on the meter. Shinny under and hook up or hold the meter leads on the rear terminals of the Genny. Measure the voltage and record. Then, have your helper try to start the Genny. OK….repeat….except have then hold on the boost. Measure the voltage….then crank and note the voltage while cranking. ODDS ARE….you are gonna see WHY it will not start. That means….a bad cable or a bad switch (House Bank) or a bad connection. NOW….go back to the batteries. Again….measure the House….then have the helper try to crank the Genny. Record the voltages . Now repeat and have them hold on the boost. IF the House drops close to what you measured up front with the HOUSE only….time for new batteries. BUT if the House was 12.7 or so and hardly any difference with the boost ….then a down stream issue. Where…..hard to find…but you LEARN A LOT. If your disconnect switch kills the House battery…..then….go there. Measure each stud to a GOOD ground (you can run the hookup wire to the negative on the house bank). Should be less than 0.1 - 0.2 VDC if that much in the readings, NOW….put the leads across the terminals. NOW crank the genny. IF you get more than 0.1-0.2 VDC….bad switch. What is happening is there is a contact issue or high resistance in the switch. Since the house load is way less….you don’t NOTICE it. BUT it must be replaced. If you have electric motor or hydraulic motor slides, the bad switch is damaging the motors. The voltage there will drop or be low, under load, just like the genny. This causes the amperage to increase, exponentially…..and the motor will even fail. TRUST ME….this happened. My FIRST issue was a bad ground. But I eventually found out, after replacing the entire hydraulic pump package….the bad switch. Mine would work great….drive 1000 miles….great. Drive a mile….voltage drop. When I replaced the pump, I out in a selector switch and then put the hydraulic on the chassis, Just a few years ago, I discovered the bad switch…caught it when it was in the failure mode. Past that….what you then need to do….you measure the voltage across a set or terminals….or a cable…. Then start the genny. When you find a big voltage drop….then you fix or replace the connections or the cable. We have had folks that has an internally corroded cable. LOOKED GREAT…but it had a voltage drop…from end to end….under load. New cable….fixed. Cut old apart….found the wires “gone” or corroded…. It happens. Tedious process….but it works….and is the ONLY way to chase and troubleshoot…. Good Luck…

Good deal. ESCO may “advise” repairing, which is simple for almost anyone to do. They may determine that the parts or the age of the switch do not make it “cost effective”. In the past, after many back and forth sessions with the ESCO techs…including a couple of hours with their chief Design Engineer, they usually recommend, like when folks had the ill fated IOTA, that you install the LPT50BRD. Now, that was a while back…. But they do or did warn that if the “65N” was purchased instead that it “would/might/will” hum. How loud and how annoying….location and hearing of the occupants and such varies. To date…..as in over 15 years, only a few of the 65N were used for an IOTA replacement …and there was one or two that said….”gee, wish I had known that”. So that is the caveat…that many don’t know. ESCO will help you…and many, especially the early members of the Yahoo group really LIKED that model….even though it was only used a few years…..then Monaco switched to the IOTA on the lower end and the TRC Surgeguard…with a proprietary interface with the Aladdin, on the upper ends…. Now, you know “the rest of the story”….

Ben…. First…. Your system, which is the same as mine, works as you described….. and that is normal. And the only issue that I expect is to clean the Big Boy. I actually carry a spare. So….that is the way, in “theory”, that the Intellitec system was designed to work. As an aside, our Big Boy “sees” less than half the voltage….so when it gets hot and hums….it is totally different from the Dynasty or the system in Al’s Patriot thunder. His Big Boy will be more than HOT….you usually can’t keep your hand on it as it is HOT..not warm. And it is twice as loud when engaged or the HUM is pronounced. That is the way that Intellitec designed BOTH systems….and is normal…..lots of folks are not aware of this… But…if you go back and read Al’s post about his Patriot Thunder (basically same as any 05/06 Dynasty and up, @amphi_sc does not have “our” system. He has a dedicated #6 PCB for charging and boost and maybe one other function. His is not working, it appears, like it was designed. In theory….from a concept, the two systems should function the same. But in reality, his system is radically different and more complex than ours and Frank and Paul are two, perhaps we have others, of the best here, as well as in the country, that can repair the “out of production” board and reprogram it. It is simple for them as they have the “rig” to test…but when they replace the chip, which is probably 90% of the failures, they have to reprogram the new chip….sort of like reformatting the hard drive on a computer and installing a new OS. From experience, after a lot of “educatin” by Frank, I know how it works….and can assist in determining whether it is a board or Big Boy issue…but then hand off to someone else if it is a defective board. You probably already know this, but your comment provided a post to explain it so others with our system or the newer Dynasty can understand the differences. Thanks….

Kevin, The title was changed as many folks were asking questions and thinking or wondering about Kongsberg. The title change was preemptive to keep it focused However, it has been edited back to the original title with a tag line regarding CCM. We have numerous issues with folks NOT fully understanding specifically what you were talking about and then wandering off track. Frank very succinctly answered your question. Since he does not “promote” what he and Paul Whittle do, we often provide more information….sometimes for the OP and sometimes for the group following it so thy will learn as well. Frank also posted an explanation to provide clarity. In one of your subsequent posts, you commented on finding boards. These boards are rare and becoming rarer. The #6 board in the Rear Run controls the BIRD (BiDirectional) charging system. That board, since it is in use while driving or in storage, with power, is, I think, the most common failure. Frank and Paul repair these boards all the time. FWIW, going deeper, the #6 board is not a “just pop in a new chip”. After the chip is installed, it has to be reprogrammed and both Frank and Paul have the ability as well as the “setup” and the software to do that. Your call on buying boards…but be aware, the boards you buy probably have not been tested as very few folks can do that… Again, we have the two best resources, in my opinion, to repair ANY of the boards, in the country here. Your call on spares or such, but unless you arrange for a testing and return, you might be buying something defective… We, the moderators, will have members post a problem and go down the wrong path….as in “maybe a Kongsberg”. That was, to us, evident. However, the first question asked was “Kongsberg”, so this post offered a “teaching” opportunity so more folks would be knowledgeable. That’s it. This is often done. Typically, when a 2009 unit has issues, the title is edited to call out the K’B CCM. We also prefer a member’s signature include a CCM tag line so we know instantly if his year, which did include some 2008’s, was a CCM. That’s the logic….Sorry if it was confusing….you now, along with others, have a little more “Monaco” background…. Welcome aboard

You have the “Sherman Tank” of the ESCO ATS. Was used extensively. But, the main complaint was AC HUM and noise, Two AC coil relays. Hum is what it did….when new. Drove wives crazy…..and many complained. ESCO bought the LYGHT LPT50BRD. That is more popular due to the which is a low voltage, not 120 VAC line voltage model. Call ESCO. They still stock the parts and you can order it from them. Due to the age, we do not, I think, have the manual or Parts List. However, the ESCO tech support is great..one of best.

@Frank McElroy PM Him. If the three chips are standard and NOT programmed, he is a whiz at troubleshooting boards. This is not a complex board…. or perhaps @pwhittle. These guys can fix the Intellitec boards for the Dynasties…. All they can say is NO. Also contact Dinosaur Board. They do a lot of refurbishment….. Have you called NorthWest RV Supply and asked them?

Have you googled PDXRVWHOLESALE.com? They list parts for the SCS HVAC UNITS

Is that from SEA or a local vendor. The glass, has to be cut and then shipped to a distributor that can heat treat or temper it properly. For those that are unaware, when a piece of “tempered glass” BREAKS….a GaZillion piece of glass or beads. WHY? Safety. If you pop of the outside panes on the driver’s windows or a piece of an OEM Boat (runabout or big cruiser), it totally shatters and doesn’t impale you. SOLUTION… find a supplier, locally, that can cut “dual pane….laminated windshield glass”. Has to be the same thickness….which might be a problem. Done all time for side glasses…..as it is HARD to get an OEM replacement panel… OTHER SOLUTION….put in a Plexiglass panel. Use Double thickness…..might have to Laminate with a heavy duty double sided clear tape. If slightly thinner, use double stick tape to shim out where the frame is. Done ALL the time on boats. Eventually will have some UV haze… but WAY thicker. Sometimes a panel is “bowed” or has a slight twist. Had a boat windshield….looked perfectly flat. NOPE. My glass guy put in two exact temoered fit panes….when he tightened up the frame so the glass would swing out and latch….the stress shattered it. Plexiglass to the rescue…. My Plexiglass cost $50….a NEW panel, just the glass, from the boat builder…$450….

I would do a dual search. First, SEA is one of the top vendors still in business and has real customer service. TRAICO is the name of their parts guy (pronounced Tri-Co). He has been great. Second, YES….check out a local vendor. Don’t know what type of glass and such. BUT if you are disassembling, then be prepared to be a big spender and replacing any hardware with signs of wear over the years….

Depends on the "Failure". SS ain't the end all to end all. It has limitations. I have had the larger 3/16" SS Pop Rivets fail on the slide side wall. Even SS has a tensile strength limit. IF SS Drill Screws, and I don't know if they were or if someone replaced them...they will be slightly softer and easier to drill than a hardened Drill Point (commonly used by Monaco assemblers).

My advice….PM @Frank McElroy. He is the expert. You should set your battery type to the proper configuration. There is a file ….use Magnum as the key word in the search box. Then click on everywhere and select FILES. I wrote it as an aid. You can also call Magnum. Frank will have to address the strange behavior, but I, the slightly informed novice, think you have an issue with the board. MOST Big Boy coils, I THOUGHT, hum and or get hot….most of the time…