Tom Cherry

Bill asked good questions. Please tell us WHERE you don't have power. The rules of the forum request that you have info on what MH you have. That helps us all. WHERE are you measuring or what are you calling "L1 and L2". On a 50 amp service, you have L1 and L2 coming into the Automatic Transfer Switch. The ATS will read L1 to Ground or Neutral - 115 Volts. Same for L2. BUT when you measure L1 to L2, you get 230 Volts. From there, the power goes to the Main Breaker. You will have a 30 Amp Breaker there for the Magnum. The Magnum is both an Inverter as well as a Power Passer Througher... The Magnum will have (most likely) 3 breakers. Depending on the age....that could vary. TYPICALLY, Monaco installed the ones with a 30 Amp PIN breaker (incoming power to the Magnum) and TWO 20 Amp Outgoing Breakers (Pins also) If the main panel 30 amp is ON and not tripped...and you are on shore....you should have power to the Magnum. If you are saying that you have NO power coming out of the Magnum....then if you have the TYPICAL 3 pin Magnum, then the first thing to do is to pull out and push back in the breakers. They sometimes "TRIP". Don't do this routinely. They are Resettable....but NOT like a toggle or switch type breaker. NOW, IF the pin breakers are OK.....then you need to find out HOW downstream circuits are RUN. There MAY be a sub panel....as Bill suggested. There may NOT be. On some MH's the 115 VAC went to TWO circuits. One was the Microwave. The OTHER was to a GFCI (can be a receptacle or a panel/box) breaker. If your microwave is NOT working....and you can NOT find any panel for it.....then the next issue is the INVERTER. The Inverter has a built in ATS. SO, if there is power to the Inverter, it automatically passes that through and you have 115 VAC. BUT, the ATS relay was a higher failure (Per Magnum) part. It is part of the MAIN CONTROL BOARD ($300 - $450). IF the ATS has failed.....then you have to replace the board (or get a new inverter). You need a qualified ELECTRICIAN (does not have to be a Motor Home Tech). He needs to verify (pulling the wiring or the cover on the Magnum) if you have INCOMING POWER. If the Magnum is ON (Green light blinks occassionally and you are on SHORE), then he needs to check the terminal strip that the L1 and L2 Circuits are connected to. IF there is NO POWER THERE....you have a failed ATS and the board is bad. Please be a little more specific.....this is how it works.

Hydraulics are interesting. I am NOT a lubrication engineer. But, I have had the responsibility for Maintenance and PM for several banks.....and that was at two large plants. If you changed the internal (assuming Nelson) filters and also the Pressure (Zinga?) filters on a reasonable basis....say 50K or so, then everything should be cool. I had to do mine for the extended warranty as the "Manual" says so. The Monaco Manual is written based on us driving it like it was an OTR rig and they copied the TRW (or maybe Shepherd) recommendations. NO ONE changes the filters SEMI-Annually... This is directly from the Camelot's Manual. NOW....not that Monaco NEVER updated the manual. Mine called for Texaco AW46. It ALSO said that I have 35 or so QUARTS in my system. Monaco dropped the LARGER Nelson and put the cheaper, smaller one in mine. So much for reading the manual. 5a Hydraulic Reservoir/Filter >> Maintain level/Replace >> Before each trip/15,000 miles or 6 months HF 5b Hydraulic Filter Replace>> Monitor Gauge - Bottom line, based on my experience, I personally, if I had AW46, be replacing both filters every 50K or so and draining the reservoir and putting in new fluid. The fan motors and the controller (the Electronic One) are critical. MY experience is that if you do NOT filter hydraulic fluid, it will eventually collect moisture and contaminants. The pumps and motors don't care. BUT, any precision valving or controls will start to be damaged or show wear. My machines were molding presses (Zn, Al and Plastics). We have all sorts of controls for the various cycling and cylinders and such. We had the cheap filters on each machine. We changed them. But, I also had a central pump and filtration system (on a big cart) that we ran 24X7 and rotated it from machine to machine (probably weekly). That cut down on our maintenance and downtime. The TRW rep told me that Allison had spent Millions developing Transynd. Therefore, TRW just "Adopted" Transynd as their standard for Extended Warranty components. They had hired a bunch of Allison Engineers so they just "changed" their lubrication and warranty policies. If you find older TRW books, you can find the AW46 and standard ATF. BUT, if you look at the NEWER books and spec sheets, they specific Transynd or the TS 295 Equivalent. As I said.... I have done mine TWICE. I ain't gonna mess with it again. Just my thoughts. I don't know success. BUT, thinks happen. I never had a problem with my Door Step....and not a HINT of any malfunction. But it quit working on the last trip and the gear housing was stripped. SO, I fixed it. Keeping the hydraulic fluid filtered and replenished would be my priority. And swapping.....that would be the last resort unless I intended to camp in sub zero weather. But, adding Transynd to mine and doing the filter changes, myself, makes me feel more confident....and I don't want to have radiator or coolant heat exchanger issues.....much less the fan controller going out...

We mere mortals are not allowed to discuss the holy grail of such devices. We could be blinded or castrated or taken before the Supreme Judge.....The Viper of Pratt. Seriously 10 Gallons. And I thought the Nelson 5 gallon was overkill..... Oh Well.... Now I know....

OK....from the ARCHIVES.....There are TWO (at least to my knowledge) Hydraulic Systems in use. BOTH were called NELSON. Fleetguard bought Nelson....so you never know. The basics. The ORIGINAL larger MH's had a 4- 5 Gallon Nelson system. That is the big black reservoir with the screw in (like a milk cap) dipstick on the top. You unscrew. the markings are for HOT and COLD. That takes the THREE filters in the picture. NOW.....later on....Monaco went cheap and bought the SMALLER reservoirs. They are around 1.5 - 2 Gallons. That system ONLY HAS ONE FILTER. How am I so sure....I read all the posts and bought three. OPPS....my 2009 Camelot has the smaller.....I bought THREE.....it only had ONE. So much for READING the manual. NOW....to add to the confusion.... There MAY or may NOT be an additional Spin On filter (Zinga?). That is the filter with a gage on it. it is most like a RED, YELLOW and GREEN filter. It is an additional SPIN ON Hydraulic Filter. So, you have TWO filters (assuming you have the second). The first filter(s) is in the Reservoir and then there is a downstream Pressure filter. OK.. KEEP READING.... Monaco was SUPPOSED to have converted from a Texaco AW46 (memory) HYDRAULIC FLUID or OIL to Automatic Transmission Fluid circa 2005 or so. OPPS....we have motor homes that are 2008's that got the AW46 Fluid. SUPPOSEDLY, the AW46 would FREEZE and blow out the steering sector or damage the cooling section when you got into the minus numbers. We HAVE had two or three failures....where the person overnighted and it got really cold and started the engine and had a gusher under the motor. THAT is fact and not FOLKLORE. Monaco converted to the ATF that was supposed to ELIMINATE that. TRW also became the prime supplier for the Steering Sector (up front) and they recommended that Monaco switch (or that seems to be the tale) to ATF. The Shepherds MAY have OIL. I don;t KNOW. Van Williams and others with more history can chime in. I would do this.....FIRST before I bought or ordered anything. Remove the BAND Clamp on the reservoir. Then pull off the top (with the Dipstick in it). LOOK at the fluid. Dip a rag or a paper towel in it. If it is STRAW or YELLOW it is the Texaco AW46 or PURE Hydraulic Fluid. IF it is RED....then you have ATF or Automatic Transmission Fluid. NOW....you know WHAT to purchase. I purchased the Texaco that the manual said. OPPS....I had ATF. The next step is what you need to KNOW. If you can snag or use a wire and pull the filter.....then if you have ONE filter....you have the SMALLER reservoir. If there are THREE stacked....then you have the larger reservoir. The Filters are the SAME. BUT, I THINK that the Filters are DIFFERENT. Mine has the SINGLE Filter. It is ONLY 4" High. It is a NELSON 83804E replacement filters Baldwin P528 CARQUEST 85637 Donaldson P550637 BUT, I THINK that the Filters are DIFFERENT. Mine has the SINGLE Filter. It is ONLY 4" High. The 84101B or perhaps the 84101B-20 is a taller filter I found the following..... 5-1/8" HIGH Along with the Nelson 84101B, there are some others that cross-reference:Donaldson P550698Fleetguard HF6238Wix 57196GMC 15513845 BOTTOM LINE....you need to determine if you have the LARGER (probably taller...way taller) reservoir.....or if you have the shorter (probably fatter or wider) reservoir. You can measure the depth of the oil and the radius and the height. Calculate the Cubic Inches (V = Radius SQUARED times PI (3.1416) times HEIGHT (depth of oil). THEN divide the Cubic Inches or Volume by 231. That is the NUMBER of gallons. It should be OBVIOUS then which one you hvae. NOW>>> Some folks ARGUE with me. But TRW Tech Support told me this. Do NOT mix (you can....but NOT recommended) Fluids. TRW NOW will only give the longer Service Intervals for their heavy duty equipment to TRANSYND or equivalent. I drained my reservoir using a HOSE. I did NOT want to loosen any fitting. I put in Transynd. I have done that ONCE since then. I ain't gonna mess with it again. The Mobil Delvac Synthetic ATF is as good, IMHO, as the Allison Transynd. YES....you pay more. BUT, the TRW Tech said that he would do it if it was his MH as you will NEVER (OK....his opinion) have any issues and the small amount of the OEM ATF will not cause problems. I decided that if I could not afford the difference in 2 gallons of Transynd (Or Delvac) that I could not afford to own and operate my MH. My THOUGHTS....and some FACTS. IF you do have the AW46, it needs to be changed probably every 3 or 4 years....but that varies with the opinions of the owners. It will NOT, I think, as long as the ATF....

There are TWO "Big Boys". Note that the term, BIG BOY is typically MEANT to be an Intellitec item. BUT, technically, any INTERCONNECTING Solenoid (Trombetta makes then as well as others) is or could be called a BIG BOY. Intellitec make two style. The Latching. This unit is a bit strange....or to me. It required a LATCH (close) and an UNLATCH (open) signal. Here is a link to this relay. https://rvpartsexpress.com/product/intellitec-big-boy-12volt-battery-disconnect-relay-200-amp-00-00507-512/ you have a Momentary contact switch. It has current or voltage to the center contact. When you push it UP (for example), it supplies a momentary signal to the CLOSE contact. That then latches (magnetically) the relay in the CLOSE position. Nothing ain't gonna open it.....except....another signal. So, if you push the switch DOWN (momenentarily), that then UNLATCHES the relay. NOW....look at the picture of the panel above. The one on the RIGHT (it appears) is the Latching. You can see the "Schematic" or the instructions on the body of the Relay. OK....the OTHER type is a CONTINUOUS duty. I have attached a file on it..... That, I believe, is the Relay or Solenoid on the RIGHT. This one operates TOTALLY differently. It is designed for TWO different voltages. When you apply (Hold in a Momentary contact switch), there is 12 VDC applied. That solenoid (assuming it is the 200 amp) will then STAY CLOSED. BUT, if you leave it held in (you would NEVER, EVER use a snap or a toggle switch), then it will BURN OUT. Your Battery Boost (Most Likely) has a momentary contact switch.....and if you read the manual, it explains that you ALWAYS let off on it. You are NOT supposed to crank the engine through it. It is rated for 200 amps and the starter takes 1200 - 1400.....so you just KILL the contacts. NOW.....if you DO want the Solenoid to be FULLY CLOSED FOR A PERIOD OF TIME.....then it has another feature. It will "HOLD" the solenoid (relay) closed with only 3 - 4 VDC. Thus, you CLOSE with 12 VDC and then you drop the voltage to 3 - 4 (maybe as low as 2.5) and it will hum and get warm, but not do any damage. GOT ALL THAT? There will be a quiz... OK....the "Rube" system above is interesting. In the MIDDLE, there is a Intellitec BIRD DIESEL2 Module. THAT is what is typically used for "BIRD" or Bi-Directional charging. When all conditions are OK (there are voltage limits), then the BIRD is signaled and "energized" and the BIRD D2 sends out a 12 VDC Signal to the Big Boy (the continuous kind on the LEFT). That 12 VDC is held or maintained for maybe 30 seconds. As long as the charging system is OK and both batteries are not run down or shorted or whatever....and the charging voltage is not too high or too low.....then the BIRD drops the Voltage down to around 3 - 4 VDC and the puppy stays CLOSED and is happy.... NOW, you know. OK.....Bonus info or BOGO. The Salesman Switch that we lovingly hate and remove is a LATCHING relay. It is the 100 Amp version of the Big Boy. It ain't as BIG as the Big Boy 200 amp. It has the same schematic as the one of the RIGHT. You have to PUSH the button to the ON position (and the switch pops back) and it is LATCHED in place. To kill or open the circuit, you then push the button in the opposite side and that unlatches or opens the system. Study hard....you will get an email and if you fail....we might take disciplinary action....LOL..... That's how they work. Thats what they (the Intellitec units) look like. That is a strange panel above......it APPEARS that you have to have ONE relay (latched) or the RIGHT ONE ON and then the LEFT one is controlled by the BIRD Module. Who knows.....interesting....but probably NOT a Monaco panel....but hey, Monaco has built strange things....and they one may be for an upper end MH or one that I am NOT familiar with..... Dr. Frank would have to wade in... GOOD Big Boy PDF 77-9006-120 Continuous - Camelot.pdf

MOST LIKELY....and we all say this... Monaco never built the same coach TWICE. ODDS ARE....you have a WABCO air dryer. It has one Dessissicant (sp?) filter. It is a round, screw on filter. NOW....a word of caution. Many of the Wabco units have had small leaks. There are two sides to the housing. I can't recall the reason. But, WABCO sells TWO separate "repair" kits. BUT, unless you are really handy and are OK with rebuilding precision devices, rebuilding is not a VALUE ADDED. The kits are in the $150 range or maybe higher. By the time you pay a tech to rebuild them, you are well into 75% of the cost of a new unit. The NEW unit comes with a NEW Filter. SO, odds are....you can buy a new one and have it installed for the same price as rebuilding the old one and purchasing a new filter. If you air up (the pop off sounds), then do some bubble (soap solution) testing on the entire housing. If you see bubbles....then you need to have it repaired or replaced. Odds are, your air dryer is in the upper right rear (but you never know) section of the engine compartment. I would TEST and then make the call before I purchased the $40 - $60 filter. If it is leak free, all you need is an oil filter strap wrench. I would use a little purse silicone (plumber's grease) or Vasoline on the seal.....just put it on your finger and smear it LIGHTLY....no globs...

Maybe I missed something. If you have the separate keypad.....as in it is mounted alone, that is probably the Essex. BUT, if you have a handle with a 5 button keypad, then that is the Trimark. The Trimark is a complete assembly and you have to replace the entire unit....of that is what I think....the keypad is in the lower half of the handle. The handle is translucent and has a light. The only issue that folks have had with this unit was when Monaco or Trimark made a BLOOPER. The 2009 or so (maybe a few years earlier) keypad have a very low current rating on the contacts. Monaco was using a home style door bell. Trimark switched or changed design of the components. The keypad's contacts were downrated. So, the bottom button, which was also the Door Bell, would not carry the full current for the household door bell. That arced or shorted out the lower contact. Monaco made some running fixes.....First they added a Relay so that the Door Bell was activated by a Bosch 5 pin relay. The relay did the work.....that was OK. Later on, they purchased a Radio Shack electronic door bell or "Chime" and discontinued the rear heavy current draw household door bell. That chime sometimes goes bad. Your's may be the Essex, stand alone, but I just wanted to clarify so that you get the proper advice.... Just trying to qualify. Monaco was mostly using the Trimark systems in 2009, but depending on whether you 2009 was a hold over 2008 or if they found a complete system laying around and decided to use it, you may have the Essex system. The Trimark device or component, unfortunately, is lot listed on my build sheet, so it might not be called out (or the Essex) on your Dynasty. Good Luck

The water pumps used in the late 90's and early 2000's were typically rated at 45 PSI. The later pumps, which were the diaphragm pumps were rated into the 70's. Many folks have upgraded to the higher pressure pumps with no issues. The RVIA code is hard to find....but GENERALLY.....the RV's used Schedule 80 Pex or piping....so the systems were good for 80 PSI. Prudence says not to push something.....especially when it is vibrated all the time. 55 PSI to 60 PSI using a Quality (not an inline) Pressure Regulator should not be an issue. I kicked up my regulator to 62 and then backed it off a few trips later to the factory 55. The note in the Dip book says "55 or above is considered as HIGH" pressure. It does NOT say that the RV is only rated to 55 PSI.

Back to basics. If you are talking about an INLINE (cheapie) regulator, they are notorious for flow restriction. Some of them are also check valves or back flow preventers. That really cuts down on the flow. MOST folks that spend a lot of time out or are experienced will have discarded them over the years. I did....FINALLY....and wished I had done it sooner. Watts makes adjustable regulator, but they are more pricey. They run, now in the $100 or so range. I used a Camco Cheapie (Monaco included it) and always fussed about the water flow. When I was out west, there were warning signs about high water pressure. I stopped by CW and bought the Valterra Valterra Lead-Free Brass Adjustable Water Regulator for about $65. It is their mode lA01-1117VP I have used it since 2015. The gauge is a much higher quality one....that is Glycerin filled. It comes set at 55 PSI. To ease folks fears, MOST of the onboard water pumps are set or work at 65 PSI. The water systems are typically rated upwards to 75 PSI. Therefore, the Valterra works just fine out of the box. You would NOT believe the difference in the flow. My daughter and GD fussed about the low pressure for rinsing their hair in the shower. Once I swapped it out..... BINGO, they said....WHAT DID YOU DO? Someone pointed out that you need to do check your inline filter(s) if you have any. I can tell you from experience as well as many posts here and on the other sites.....the CHEAPEST filter works fine. I have a home system that I run the cheap pleated or foam in. In the Camelot, I use the cheapest Charcoal filter that I can find. The only reason for the Charcoal is to filter out any chlorine residual. Many of the private CG, have their own systems and to be safe....they over treat. The OTHER thing that I suggest is that you put on a Washing Machine Screen Washer to prevent contaminants. NOW, this will keep out the big stuff. That protects your City/Fill Valve. You, of course, can get in microscopic particles....but they will be caught in the water filter (assuming you have one). My thoughts.... My experience.....as well as Many and I mean MANY posts over the years. CW has the Valterra for around $64. Amazon is getting $82 now.....but that may change at any time. If you want the more expensive Watts, make sure that you get a good gauge....that is why I chose the Valterra. From an old maintenance engineering background, I always purchased pressure gauges that were glycerin filled as they lasted longer and also were more accurate. Good Luck. Hope this helps...

I have not had any issues with my original CoachStep electric single step....other than the controller must have gotten wet early on and that was replaced in 2014 or so. When the tech plugged it in....it worked fine. When I got home.....intermittent. I then plugged and unplugged the power connections (4 wire) and the motor (2 wire). Worked like a champ since then. No "FAKE" Step Out light which was the issue. BUT, as always.....vibration and use take its toll. Step stopped working. It would run part way (either way) and stop mid way. The steps would also not "LOCK" into position....which is a safety issue. Been HOT. I got back from our trip and decided....It is ME or the STEPS.....knowing that they might win. Bottom line....I had READ a lot over the years. I know that there are many aftermarket motors from E-Trailer and also the autoparts stores (Many have published the PN or the item number). Today....I figured it out. I am attaching the CoachStepElectric (ORIGINAL) Brochure with the simple trouble shooting instructions. Once you read them (it took me a time or two....) they make sense. I also have included the NEW LCI CoachStep service guide as well. I liked the CoachStepElectric but BOTH tell you what to do and how to test.... I did the following... Tested for Voltage. FINE... I checked for Ground.....FINE. I checked the "Door Switch" as it is called. FINE. Now WHAT is missing is the "What does the door on the wall do?" instructions. I always leave mine in the STAY OPEN....unless the Engine is running mode. That is NOT covered in the manual. BUT, if you follow all the trouble shooting guides....it does not matter. I got down to the part about the Amber Light coming on. My light never worked as it fills with water and I never bothered to fix it. BUT, the way it is SUPPOSED to work....OPEN the door (so the steps EXTEND)....the light is supposed to come on and the motor is supposed to run. I took a thin ice pick and probed the wire on the back of the Light Socket (Cover off). Then I tested the circuit. When the motor was trying to run.....and the door was open....as in you WANT the steps to EXTEND.....I got 12 VDC. That is what the instructions say.... Then they go into details about the controller. I finally decided that every time I unplugged the 4 pin harness, the motor tried to run. I decided that the motor had to be the problem. I cut two short lengths of stranded #12 hook up wire and grounded one....and then put the other into the "Red Wire" incoming terminal in the 4 wire connector. Motor just RAN and RAN and that was that.... Pulled off the THREE screws that holds the motor. There are 6 (2 per bolt) standoff bushings to hold the motor in the correct position. One of mine was split. Being an old Fastener Chief Engineer....I recognized Hydrogen Embrittlement. SO, a buddy is turning me a new bushing. Took the motor out (you do NOT have to remove the plate at the bottom, it just rotates out of the way and has enough "Play" to not be an issue. Took off the cover. There is an other plastic gear. There is also an inner plastic gear that must drive the metal gear. I say MUST as in all i had was a teaspoon of ground up plastic. SO, the inner gear went south. The original CoachStep was in a state of flux. Circa 2005 or so, Lippert bought CoachStep of Texas. The ORIGINAL CoachStep PN was 733-0001. CoachStep did NOT Pot or seal the controllers and they failed. Lippert moved it to IN. They changed the PN. The LCI (Lippert) Number is 165032. The Motor Number on my Lippert (IN) Step is 300-1406. You can find the motors on Amazon for around $175. E-Trailer has the in the same range. AM (the windshield wiper company) makes a replacement for around $130. BUT, there is a LOT of them on Ebay as Close Outs. I bought one for around $72. There are three different PN's that they go by. BUT, they are all interchangeable. The tech had originally used bulb grease on the terminals to prevent corrossion. That was say 6 years ago. There was some "Green" stains in there. I used contact cleaner and got rid of that. I also put t small dab (very small on the end of a toothpick) of the OX-Guard or AlumiNox....that is a conductive paste. I had HOPED it was a low voltage issue or contacts. NO JOY. When I reassemble, I will put on the Bulb Grease....but leave the Ox-Guard in place for conductivity. He also had sealed the back of the connectors with RTV to prevent moisture from penetrating. They tech was an old time (25 years experience) Electronics/Electrical Tech that worked for Lazy Days and then relocated to NC. He is well known by many. Hope this helps folks in the future. FWIW....if you have an older CoachStep, and the motor and controller go south....you will spend almost $400 or so. You can buy a new step (Kwikee) for about $100 - $150 more from E-Trailer....may be cheaper elsewhere. The step MAY have the same bolt holes....if not, the bolts (at least on mine) are easy to get to on the top. Once you have broken then loose.....and use a Floor Jack for support, I think that swapping out the steps would not be that much harder than replacing the motor. SO.....my thought was....buy an OEM Motor. If i have future issues or a controller craps.....then a new step is for me... I get the distinct feeling that Kwikee may have copied CoachStep or Vice Versa. The overall sizes of the steps is about the same .... but not having a print on the Kwikee, I could not compare the holes. Worse case would be to bolt on a 1/8" or so steel plate to the runners....and then mount the step to the plate. I AM replacing all the bolts and the two "drill point" screws for the wiring harness (one is a Ground). You need to use Loctite on the 4 bolts as well. ccd_0001619.pdf CoachStepElectric - Instructions - Stromberg Carlson.pdf

Just so you understand. If you are dealing with ONE SLIDE and it has a failure on Extension.....then there could be one of three things.... First... a faulty switch. That is easily remedied by purchasing a new switch. My suggestion was that it was LESS hassle to get the Amazon switch and use it temporarily than to call Carling and chase down the correct switch. Sometimes there are minimum orders.... Second....there are TWO relays that control the slide. The motor is controlled by TWO relays. It is basically a "Reverse Polarity" circuit. One relay supplies power to the motor and that extends it. The OTHER relay is the Retract Relay and provides REVERSE polarity power to the motor. When you push the EXTEND side or the switch, that energizes the Extend Relay. THEN the relay supplies power. The motor has TWO leads. Call one RED and the other BLACK. OK....for example....you push the EXTEND side of the switch. Lets speculate and then the EXTEND Relay provides POSITIVE Voltage to the RED lead and Negative or GROUND to the Black lead. The motor then moves and you release it. NOW, to retract it, you have to REVERSE the motor. SO, when you push the RETRACT side, the OTHER Relay kicks in. That relay provides Positive power to the BLACK lead of the motor and Negative (ground) to the RED lead. Since you reversed the polarity.....the motor runs the OTHER way and retracts the slide. SO, you have BOTH relays hooked up the motor. BUT, only ONE supplies power at a time. NOW.....if the Extend Relay has a bad coil or bad contacts....then BINGO.....that is why you get an intermittent. I would CHANGE both Relays....again, this is less than $20 and you have GOOD components. SO, you have spent less than $30 and you have a TEMPORARY switch and new relays. IF you have continuing issues....then either you have a bad connection or wire from the "Extend" relay....or the motor does NOT like to be reversed. You can't make decisions or troubleshoot until you isolate and/or eliminate variables.....especially a gremlin.... Hope this explains it.

Sigma and Carling were used interchangeably. On the later MH, the large rocker switches (with the pads or larger rockers) were Carlings. The smaller switches were Sigmas. I know.... I have ordered and replaced some. OK...you have a Sigma. A Carling will interchange. All the switches are made for standard cut outs or holes. It matters NOT whose switch is in there.....as long as the hole or opening fit and the contacts and functions are the same. Call Carling or download their brochure... Carling will give you the correct PN and a source... OK....since it is intermittent....you have two choices.... The longest and most complicated will be to call Carling and chase down an exact match. Then you will be able to try that. You MIGHT want to spend $8 or so with Amazon. Order the switch. Put it in. You can secure the wiring and put a piece of tape on the TOP or the EXTEND side. Use that switch and see if the gremlin returns. IF it does....then you know you have a down stream problem. Also, you need to think back through the failures. Was it ALWAYS one way.... Retract or Extend? If it was always on one side, then odds are, it was (is) a bad relay. If you figure out WHERE the relay box or circuit board is, then I would buy all FOUR new relays and install them. BUT, if the gremlin is on BOTH functions... Then the odds of having two bad relays (or loose connections) is slim. So, the only common item is the switch. Just a matter of how you go about it and what works for you.

Jim, You need a CARLING switch. NOT a SIGMA..... https://www.carlingtech.com/sites/default/files/documents/651-Series_Details_%26_COS.pdf Here is what you want.... I THINK.... You MOST LIKELY have a 5 Relay board or box (maybe made by Intellitec). There are FOUR relays on it. TWO for in and out of one slide....the other two for in and out of the other slide. SOME of them had another relay....and I can't remember why. Therefore, the current draw is only for the relay coils and NOT the slide motors. Follow the PN below (look at the Carling Tech Site.... this is what I believe you have.... 652 - Gloss Finish 882 - Circuit is (ON) OFF (ON) This is the TAB or push on Terminal Style. It is a three position switch. The center is OFF. Each side is Spring Loaded.....in that when you HOLD it ON....it makes a momentary contact. That energizes a Relay. The switch carries very little (milliamps) of current. The Center lead is the INCOMING..... When you push it UP....it makes a contact (energizes a relay). Then when you push it down....it energizes another relay. One Relay extends.....the other Retracts..... W - Actuator White (the switch itself) W - Base White (the body of the Switch 0 - NO LEGEND (printing) N - N/A I have ordered them from Sigma....or maybe Sigma gave me the name of a company that did small volume retail sales. I talked to Tech Support. you need to measure the switch and compare it to the size in the brochure. The Amazon Switches are confusing. I THINK that Richard is correct. They SAY momentary contact....but then the ratings say otherwise. if you order these.....then they should be SPRING LOADED and NOT a "toggle" or stay ON when you push the rocker. BEFORE I ordered a switch, I would FIRST determine IF that is the problem. Often times you have a BAD BOSCH Relay. SO here is the "try it" trouble shooting. Put a small dot (Duct tape will work) on the TOP of the switch or on the rocker so that you KNOW which end is "UP". Now....remove the switch. Label each of the wires with masking tape or such. The labels will be TOP (the one on the top) CENTER (this is the incoming or control circuit) and Bottom (bottom wire). If you take something as simple as a Paper Clip, you can short or make contact between the CENTER and one wire. That should either EXTEND or RETRACT the slides. If you make a "hairpin" of the paper clip.....then short out the center and the wire that extends the slide. Once the slide is extended, the quickly remove the jumper. You do the SAME for retraction....except you jumper the Center to the OTHER wire. IF the slide works both ways.....you have a BAD Switch. If a relay is bad....then your problem should STILL exist. Test or try the cirucit FIRST before you order the switch..... if you do NOT want to do that, then order this switch for $7 to test.... Put the following in the Amazon Search Box... IndusTec DPDT 20 AMP-6 Pin (on) / Off / (on) Momentary Automatic Reset Rocker Switch Polarity Double Pole Double Throw 12V DC Motor Control The above switch has TWO sets of terminals....you only need one. SO....if you ordered that switch....then you use ONE SIDE....put the Center wire in the center and don't worry about the other two.....put on on top and one of the bottom. If you cycle the switch....one way will retract....and other way will extend. IF this fixes it....then you know the Carling Switch is bad. If not....then I would put in all new (maybe $30 total) Bosch 5 pin relays in the Control Box. Amazon sells them. check the label. Probably 30 Amp contacts.....therefore get 30 and do not use 20 amp. Hope this helps.... Good luck...

I pulled the manual on the Xantrex and the Aims. Originally, the Xantrex had instructions or troubleshooting notes that said that the batteries had to be restored or recharged by almost a volt (or maybe 3/4) DC. That prevented the cycling on and off of the inverter every few minutes due to a depleted battery. That language is missing now. The Aim does not address it either. If there is a risk of running down the batteries, then I would purchase one that had an adjustable Low Battery Cut Off (like our Magnums) and also make sure that the inverter, with a low battery bank, will not just cycle. Not good for any electronic device.

Xantrex almost makes (around $65) a 15 Amp ATS that is designed to work well with the ProWatt. The only thing I do not like about the ProWatt is the GFCI receptacle. NO Res Refer needs GFCI. That is a disaster waiting to happen. The NEC does not require a GFCI for a dedicated Refer circuit. Look at the specs....it has been a while. Watch out for ANY inverter that just "Cuts OFF". You want one that cuts off at say 11.0 VDC and will NOT start inverting until maybe 11.6 VDC. Otherwise, the inverter will shut off. the load is gone. The batteries slightly recover....then in a few minutes....it shuts down. Many do NOT have the "cycling prevention" circuitry

You need to find out WHAT devices (BIRD Diesel or Diesel2 and/or Big Boy Intellitec....there are TWO different solenoids and each works totally different). One Big Boy is a "Latching" style. You get a Voltage signal....momentarily....and it latches or turns ON. Then the signal goes to the OTHER terminal and it turns off. The continuous style, (Newer) gets an initial 12 VDC. BUT, that needs to be "reduced". The BIRD Diesel2 module puts out a 12 VDC for maybe 30 seconds. IF all the parameters are OK, it drops the voltage to <4 VDC and the Big Boy stays energized. The method of "OK....are they charged" is not conclusive. If you had BIRD charging....then you can use a Volt Meter and check. Plug into SHORE. Then you should hear a CLUNK a minute or two later. If the Big Boy is energized, it will be buzzing and warm to the touch. That does NOT mean that it is charging or working as the contacts are often pitted. You need to use a good DVM and measure the voltage on each of the large terminals. I do it to GROUND. the charging voltage will vary. If your Magnum is putting out 14.2 or so VDC and is Bulk Charging, then you should get that. But, if it is in the Absorb or Float mode, it will be lower. The voltages (to ground) should be within a few tenths of a volt. THAT means that the Magnum is charging the House batteries and the Big Boy is energized so that the Chassis Bank is in parallel. THEN you know that you have BOTH banks being charged. You can ALSO use your DVM and measure across the large terminals. There should be little or almost ZERO Volts. OK.....that means that the Magnum be working. BUT....what about the Engine. Simple. UNPLUG the shore. Do NOT turn on the Genny. Start the Engine. Run the test again. If you DO have the Intelltiec BIRD Diesel 2 and the Big Boy, then you will have the same scenario. The alternator will be charging the Chassis and the Big Boy (or your Battery Boost Solenoid) will be closed and you will be charging the House in parallel. The ONLY want to determine WHAT you have to find the components. Then trace the circuits. Use a DVM and see. Your 2005 was one of the Transition years. It was also one of the years where Monaco in Oregon and Monaco in Indiana were acting like two separate companies. The left hand did NOT care what the Right hand was doing....or if it was even THERE. For the level of your MH, my bet would be that you do NOT have BIRD charging. At best, you might have a Lambert Maintainer and that does NOT charge the House when you drive. it was meant to charge the Chassis when you were plugged in so that the Chassis did not run down. More understanding and research might be needed. See my other comments about why an ME2012 will, TECHNICALLY "work"....assuming that is is just brand new and that the Remote is 100% and such. If any issues of age or vibrations or "Just quit working" exist....as mine did....and then a $4.5 - $5K LiPO set have the POTENTIAL to be very expensive boat anchors....and if you use them for that, from an environmental standpoint, you must encapsulate them in concrete... Do your homework and don't anyone's advice WITHOUT determining WHAT you have....if it is working....and such.... OK.... I am OLD school. You is NEW school. So, you don't need but two of the LiPO's That is about $2500 and you have 200 amp hours of REAL capacity. The Flooded cells are $650 and your have 225 amp hours of REAL capacity if you do not drop below 50%. Trust me.... I DO get that. I understand that. BUT, the original concept or maybe I lost it....was about a Res Refer. Two LiPO's will NOT get you but the same run time as a four bank flooded set.....assuming that you do NOT run down past 50%. Magnum and Trojan will tell you that you can safely go down maybe to 30%, on a constant and low drain.....but it is not recommended. The 100 Amp Hours for the LiPO's is KAPUT after they are discharged and the low voltage cut off has kicked in and then the Inverter is OFF and the Res Refer is getting HOTTER. You still need the AGS or more batteries if you want another day.... So, myself and several others here typically get 7 - 8 years from flooded batteries by good maintenance and also verifying charging and checking the circuits. Therefore, if you get 32 Years or so out of the LiPO's, then we are even....except that I have about $2,000 to invest in technology stocks like TSLA and ZOOM and such.... My only point.....with that expensive battery pack and the OP NOT knowing what condition his 15 YO MSW ME2012 is in as well as the condition of the remote, then there is a high risk that PERHAPS.....the LiPO's will be abused and then not give the anticipated 32 years of life. SO, we buggy whip guys will just plod along and check the electrolyte and either use or exercise our old tech cells. We also will be looking for corroded or faulty cables and such. If the LiPO's were as robust (ask how many here have killed AGM's without fully realizing their limitations) as they are purported to be....I would probably look seriously at them. I have stated the facts and have enough experience and electrical understanding (I was an EE for two years in college) and also have been trouble shooting 12 (originally 6) volt circuits for well over 50 years....so I do know a little about such.... I am not going to argue with the technology. It is improving every year. It will eventually, I think, be cost effective. As of now, many of us with advanced degrees and experience feel that even the AGM's are not "our cup of tea" and there are glowing posts every week about an AGM set failing and someone is unhappy as they were told that the AGM's were the wave of the future...

I did do that. The article says that the ME2012 works fine. I guess that you set it to a "custom" battery mode so that all you get is the full (Bulk) absorb rate of 14.2 (+/-) as the article states. Now this where theory and reality and practicality might "come to a parting of the ways". I will give you the reader's digest from my own experience and also what Magnum told me. If the ME2012 is say, more than 15 years old, then it may not be the best choice for using on the pricey Lithiums. The Inverter/charger is nearing the end of its useful life. I have a 2008 MS2012 so it is about 12 years old. I started acting a bit funky. I worked on it and found that the battery or setup parameters were "wandering" or changing. There was an electronic gremlin. I had the original Remote. The battery amp hours would not hold when set to 450. After a few cycles of Shore ON and Shore OFF, the new parameters were 1050 Amp Hours. Talk about frying your batteries. I spent several hours on the phone with Magnum. I ran all their diagnostics and trouble shooting. Bad remote....MOST LIKELY.....but with the age....you NEVER know. SO, I persevered and called back and talked to another Magnum Tech. She finally said..... TRY THIS. I FORGOT to mention that many times, after you did a reset and then plugged in the Remote that it would freeze and you could not set the parameters or program int. She said.....only a couple of things to try... Take apart the remote and clean the push button pads. THAT MIGHT (but said probably will NOT) fix it. OK....NO JOY. Then, I asked......do you NEED the remote. Technically, NO. The Magnum is designed or has "Built in Chip defaults". SO, it will work without a remote. All you do is disconnect and then hook back up and do a reset. That sets it for 450 Amp Hours and all the "Astericked" defaults in the manual. Did that. I load tested or did the drain test. Perfect. My few month old Trojans were happy as could be and my calculations showed they were discharging properly. SO.....why was the Magnum remote to do funky things.....like NOT come back on. Like NOT being able to be turned off. Like freeaing up. Like resetting the paramters....the list of afflictions is long and distinguished. The answer. WELL, it is an electrical device. It may be bad and is sending a "Turn me off" signal instead of the "OK....auto ride from AC to inverting".... SO, I said....WHAT remote do I need? Don't buy the ME-ARC was the response. There were a LOT of software and electronic incompatibilities with my NEWER MS2012 and the sophisticated ME-ARC which would support, FULLY, the BMK. Their advice.....skip the BMK and get the new ME-50RC and you will have no issues. Bottom line....If you use an older ME or MS with flooded cells, worst case scenario is that you will be out maybe $500 for a set of four batteries is the remote goes south (and I was told at that age....it was common).. The AGM's are more persnickety and also more pricey. If I understand it....then you would need FOUR of these....and they are "Drop IN" as you can get 4 of them into the space of the existing 4. These are 12 VDC so I assume that they all go in parallel. That will give you 400 Amp Hours of capacity vs the stock 450 Amp Hours. That is enough to run a Refer for 24 hours (see my other posts). Therefore, you will have maybe $4800 or so instead of $600 and the ampacity is the same. That is about 7.5 times the cost. YES....they will last forever and forever..... BUT, based on a lot of tinkering with LiPO RC small batteries and trying to use the original chargers for the NiMH batteries, the LiPO's rarely last forever. They fail from abuse when charging. So, you need the nicer RC Lithium chargers. Most folks upgrade and then kill the expensive LiPO's and go back or just buy a new charger when they replace the LiPO's. I have been down that path and talked to a LOT of RC guys that know their stuff. Bottom line. YES.....Lithium is NEW SCHOOL. But my 2009 Camelot ain't exactly Old School. The OLD school is the ME2012. I would be really cautious, if I were going to convert without some type of ironclad warranty that says... Use a Magnum 2012 and we guarantee that they will not be damaged. That's my take....and I did do a lot of reading. Reality and experience are hard to beat.....and in the case of making a $4000 GOOF....I would upgrade the whole Inverter to a MS2812 or whatever the larger 2800 or 3000 Watt unit is and get the ME-ARC and the BMK and make sure that they batteries are being charged properly. I do NOT know about the lower voltages of the older MH's that used the LN Alternators...... My thoughts and my knowledge and my experiences.....

One at a time. You do NOT have a Converter. You have an Inverter/Charger. You could have an Inverter (which changes DC to AC) and it would NOT charge. You could have a Charger (that is NOT a converter) and it would not provide 120 VAC. SO.....stay with the definition. A converter is like your cell phone charger. it CONVERTS 120 VAC to approx 5 VDC. Maybe Monaco wired yours different. On the 2009, the Battery Cables (actually the positive....the negative is chassis grounded) Goes from the Positive to a Copper Buss. There is a 300 Amp Fuse attached to the buss and the other side of the fuse goes to the Inverter. SO, the inverter is fused. So, the ONLY way you can disconnect the inverter is pulling the Positive. NOW....follow the logic....and yours MAY be different. Battery Positive to Buss. On the same buss, there is a cable that goes to another Buss or Distribution strip. There are four FUSES on that strip. Genny so you can start it, Hydraulic slides for mine, other slides and FINALLY the idiotic Salesman's switch. So, my 200 Amp Blue Seas House Switch will NOT disconnect the Inverter. I have attached a PDF of the schematic. Now....the BIG BOY. OK....that is like saying Kleenex and meaning tissue. There is a BIG solenoid that "connects" both battery banks together. That is the Battery Boost Switch. That relay or solenoid is TYPICALLY....for your MH, a NON CONTINUOUS Duty solenoid. I DOUBT that you have what is called BIRD or Bi Directional Charging. That is when you drive down the highway....your House and Chassis Batteries are BOTH charged. When you are plugged in or on Genny, the same. You need a BIRD (Intellitec brand name) control device. There were TWO types of BIG BOYS. One was rated for low voltage (less than 4 vols) to HOLD the solenoid closed. If you have the standard one....the NON Continuous duty, then if you put a full 12 VDC to it and keep it energized....you burn up the coil. That is why your owner's manual says to use it for only a few seconds. The Trombetta is another brand of the Big Boy or more technically, the Battery Boost or Interconnect Switch. As to Lithiums.... WOW.....that is way over my head. BUT, I would warn you NOT to trust anybody and make sure that you know EXACTLY what your MH has (does it have Bi-Directional Charging)....or does it have something like a Lambert maintainer. The NEXT question.....since if you abuse the Lithiums, you are out a BUNDLE..... What does Magnum say? Will your older ME2012 work with them....or can you charge Lithiums with your Charger? My gut feel is NO, but Magnum will know. I have a MS2012. It was a 2008. I had to replace the Remote. Mine was new enough that I had a lot of builtin features that the new remote would support. If your old remote does not give you the option of Lithium.....then Magnum needs to advise. Just going out and letting some battery distributor sell you expensive lithiums and them then blowing up or failing since you have the "Wrong" charging system will be a high learning cost item. As I said, maybe here or another place, if I were going Lithiums....I would upgrade to a NEW PSW inverter/Charger. I don't have a clue as to which type of charging system and such you need.....and that is the best I can do. Tread lightly.....the cost could be staggering by just "bought me Lithiums". I have a neighbor that has blown up his boat batteries as the folks keep selling him the WRONG batteries. He was told to buy "Combo Start/Deep Cycle" for his boat.....he has a starting battery and two trolling motor batteries and a high priced "maintainer". It fried all the batteries and dried up the electrolyte.....so he was out over $500.... You need to do some reading and get conversant with the devices and the technology....and then pull the prints for your MH and understand WHAT you have (and make sure that it matches what Monaco put on the print) and then learn about Lithiums.....and THEN make the call.....otherwise....?? 12V High Current Dist..pdf

magnum says 95%. That is about the same for the ME as well as the MS series.... SOME folks have issues with how Magnum measures.....but the Magnum is top of the line....or at least in the price ranges that most folks will pay.... https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/product-inverter/2000w-12vdc-modified-sine-inverter-charger-me-series

I have been an advocate of Source Shocks. NOW....the real value of the Source Shocks is the "warranty". Billstein has a "Lifetime" Warranty. BUT, you have to return the shock to Billstein. What are you supposed to do if you want to drive. YES....you can. Koni has a better approach. They will ship you a new shock, but you might be charged for it if the shock ain't bad. Source is for the LIFE of the vehicle....so whomever purchases the vehicle has a life time shock and they just send you a new one. I have the "Extra HD" on the front of my Camelot. That is a bit OVERKILL. I personally would go with the Source Shocks. They will serve you well. As to changing them, it depends on your skills. I changed the rears on my Camelot. I have the Stud (on top) and the Eye (through bolt) on the bottom. The stud is a little trickier. The TRICK, according to the guy that does most of the installs for Source (when not at a show) is to use a pair of small vise grips and grip the shock rod at the top. That is WELL out of the way of the movement. THEN you torque it down. Some have made a special socket. I DID....but the vise grip (or locking pliers) is easier. I made a LOT of improvements to my Camelot before I fixed the REAL problem. I added front and rear sway bars (Source....but Roadmaster makes them) and the HD fronts and the regular rears. That really improved the ride and the handling. My DW commented that the MH road like the tour busses (MCI and Prevost) that we were on for some 5 Star trips. She could THEN read comfortably. We took a 5K trip. She had me "show her" where all that money went and was like WOW.....this does improve the ride and the feel. We left. I noticed that she was reading as I drove. I let that happen for about 3 days until we were in AR. I asked....how's the book coming? She said, I'm about finished. I asked.....I thought you could not read more than 30 minutes without a headache. OMG she screamed. You are right. NOW, I really love all that stuff that you put under the MH. SO, an non-technical endorsement. OK....fast forward. IF you have NOT added the Watts Link, then I would recommend that. That will do more for your driving pleasure and comfort than any shock. My HD shocks and the sway bars worked great. I can drive further. Crosswinds don't bother me. Van Williams convinced me to put on the Watts. WOW. I really do NOT need the front HD shocks....but the ride is comfortable and there is no "Ocean Liner" pitch and yaw. I have a steering stabilizer. It is way more responsive. So, the Watts (and some folks put on the rear cross braces) are the first steps. THEN, Shocks..... From there, you add as you like. NOW, would I have added the front and rear stabilizers? I do NOT know. Right now, I have to tell myself to slow down as I make a sweeping exit or on a ramp or over an overpass. My DW says that I drive the MH more like my 2016 Vette than I do the Yukon. She says that the MH tracks better or is more stable than the Yukon. SO....your call on the shocks. The "Tuned" shocks are not MADE by Source. Source paid for the developmental work and the valving is proprietary and Billstein can NOT sell them. That valving is the secret in that it brings the MH back to level or even quicker. The Billstein Shock Guru said that if he or his family had a Monaco MH, that it would have the Source Shocks and NOT the stock ones that their engineers designed. He said he could not believe the difference in the valving. Just my thoughts and a bunch more info than you might want....but that is it. I am a LITTLE surprised that the Patriot needs shocks. I thought that the Patriots were upper end. However, Monaco Execs were (supposedly) getting donations from Billstein during the early 2000's and Monaco wanted a "Firmer" ride. Beaver may not have been in the Monaco fold then. Any of the shocks (Koni and Stock Billstein) will ride better, assuming that your shocks are shot. My original Monroe's had less than 25 pounds of compression. The Source was well above 100. WHAT a difference....

From the beginning. An INVERTER is a device that "transforms" DC power into AC power. A Converter is a device that "Converts" AC Power into DC power. Technically, a Converter is a Rectifier as the definition of a rectifier is a device that converts AC to DC. Typically, a Charger is a device that "charges a battery". An Inverter changes DC to AC. You can have BOTH.....which you do. Your ME2012 is a Modified Sine Wave (some call it a Square Wave) inverter with a very sophisticated charging circuit. So it is an Inverter Charger. You do NOT need a "converter" or a rectifier. Hope the following explains it.... The device has incoming power of 30 Amps from the main panel. It also has incoming DC Power from the Batteries. NOTE....the Inverter is connected, via a 300 Amp fuse, DIRECTLY to the batteries . It does NOT run or go through the House Battery Disconnect switch. So, whenever, the MH has AC power (from shore or Genny), ASSUMING that you have not defeated or turned off the "auto modes" or default settings, the AC power will do two things. First.....inside the ME2012, there is an Automatic Transfer Switch or mini ATS. So, you pass through all the incoming AC power. You will have around 3600 watts or power (30 X 120). When there is NO AC power, the Inverter will take the 12 VDC and inverter or transform it into 120 (actually 115 is the correct voltage). SO, you have 2000 watts or power. That will run the Microwave. It will NOT run the Microwave and a hair dryer or an electric skillet. You have TWO circuits of AC in the MH. One is directly wired to the Microwave. The OTHER is for all the REST of the stuff. It will be fed or passed through a GFCI so that you have ground fault protection. There are THREE circuit breakers on the Magnum. All are Pin Type. They POP out when tripped or open. One is for the incoming 30 Amp AC. That protects the printed circuit or main control board. The OTHER two are for each of the two circuits. The Charger is a very sophisticated device.....needed to preserve your batteries and prevent damage. This is a Three State Charger. Bulk is when the amperage approaches 90 or 95 amps and the voltage will be around 14.2/3 VDC. As the Bulk (sock it to it) charge is hitting the batteries, the charger "senses" and eventually backs off the current (lowers it slightly) and then also the voltage. This is called "absorb". I think that when the battery is maybe 95% that it then changes to "Float Charging"....and it stays there and maintains the battery.

Yes, the "usable" or recommended capacity is 50% of the total ampacity to prevent damage to the batteries. I know NOT what AGM's will stand or Lithiums. However, as i stated previously, if you have 450 Amp Hours of battery capacity, then if you run your genny for about 2 - 3 hours every 24 hours or once daily, you will, ASSUMING the batteries are capable of achieving for receiving a FULL charge, NOT GO BELOW 50% SOC. That is based on personal experience....as well as others. The RF18 uses, per Samsung and Govt testing, around 562 KWH or 1.54 KWH/day. Bill Groves, Richard and several others, including myself measured the energy consumption. I think were were all in that range....but for purposes of estimating, use 1.75 KWH or 1,750 Watts over a 24 hour period. Use a nominal voltage of 12.25 VDC. That equates to 143 Amps or Amp Hours if you want to look at it that way. EDITED.....Correction. The 143 Amp Hours is actually for a 24 hour period. If you run the Genny for 3, then you only will consume 125 amp hours. The Magnum PSW inverter along with the other parasitic loads will average around 2 Amp or 42 (21 hours inverting). That is a total of 167 Amp hours. OK, you will have some pump run times and other such items. You can also make ice during the 3 hours of RUN TIME. Therefore, you are using 75% of the available 225 Amp Hours for OTHER purposes. BUT, if you use the "Energy" setting, that greatly reduces the load. MOST folks when the boon dock will turn OFF or pull the plugs to the HEC. I have power strips for that. Most folks have also upgraded to LED lights....so the lighting load is reduced. Most folks will NOT make ice during this period. With a little common sense and energy conservation, you will STILL easily get the 24 hours of consumption, without putting the batteries at risk. We have proven that by use. We have calculated that many times. Adding in a single bank does NO get you to 48 hours....so if you want 48 hours, then you need to have a bank of 8....which many Dynasties and upper ends have. But, a single bank of 4 works fine.... In fact, if you actually exercise or drain the batteries periodically.....as in parking at a stop or such, you will get longer life from flooded cells in a MH with a Res Refer than one without. Trojan says that always having the MH connected to power and never draining the batteries to around 50% or so hurts them. One final point....since we have gone down this path. If you have a Res Refer and use the AGS and have GOOD flooded cells and no excessive drain....then you can safely set the AGS to around 11.8 or 11.9 VDC. WHY.....the actual battery voltage will be around 0.1 - 0.2 VDC higher. If you do the load test.....read the Magnum remote and then the actually bank. The battery voltage is always higher on the bank. Trojan says that they do not "advertise" this as they want to make sure that you have adequate Amp Hours to crank the Genny, but YES....if you want to go to a 50% SOC, use the lower voltage and not the charts...

From an Engineer's perspective....I would try this. Assuming that you are on 50 Amp service and NOT having to deal with the heat of your 10KW Genny... Put a fan (say a 20" or so floor fan on TOP of the RV at the rear or the back of the garage. Aim it towards the front. That will keep the air moving. Then put one on the floor at either side of the door and aim it inside or sit it inside. That will allow for cooler (supposedly) air to come in. The top fan will keep the hot air exhausted. Now if you really want to move some air.....Costco and BJ's or Sams used to sell. "Squirrel Cage" carpet drying fans. Those rascals put out a LOT of CFM. I use an industrial grade 20" floor fan in my crawl space at home to keep the air moving so that my dehumidifier is getting a fresh or non-stagnant air flow. That fan is an Air King and has 3760 CFM for $95.. I selected it as it would be a continuous or near continuous duty. Bought from Amazon However, for just a short time.....here is a better value... This is from Amazon Hurricane HGC736501 Floor Fan-20 Inch, Classic Series, That fan is rated at just over 2100 CFM and is only $30. SO, you could purchase 4 of them and get 4200 CFM incoming and 4200 CFM outgoing or exhaust. That would move a LOT of air. If you garage is say 50 ft long and say 16 ft wide and say 150 ft tall.....then you have 12,000 Cubic feet. So, you would turn the air over once every 3 hours.... That does NOT take into account natural convection. If you have a side entrance, you could add a fan there . You want to keep the air on top of the MH moving. NOW.....the OTHER thing to consider....TRY IT WITHOUT any fans. Put a Refrigerator Temp Sensor on top of the MH. Mount it on a chair or a camera tripod or somewhere NEAR the ceiling (center) of the Garage. Don't run the AC and see how hot it gets in the heat of the day with the doors open. THEN run the AC's for a while. It will stabilize. See how much temp gain you have....

Did not know about the updating. I do mine once or twice per season.....just for new maps. But, I verify the route with Google. I have the original Monaco radio. I feed an XM module (portable) into it via Rear Aux connection. I have that "Y'ed" in where I can now feed my phone. I also have the interconnection iPod (30 Pin) cord so that I can put on music and just let it play. I have over 3000 songs on that. I also have an audio (phone jack) hookup to the HEC receiver. SO, I got music when I want it. If one were REALLY tech savvy, then what you do would be to install an AppleTV on the TV. (of course the TV would have to be ON when you drove and the interlock defeated). Then you screen mirror an iPad (cellular) to the Apple TV. BINGO.....you have your iPad on the overhead TV. Then call up Google Maps (or WAZE or whatever) and then select your route. Sort of like folks wanting manual tranny, or fully auto with NO paddle shifters or a Trimtronic (?) 8 speed auto that you can shift on the fly or let it do the shifting. If all you want is a radio to get an occasional FM or AM station or listen to a "Here you are.....listen to our instructions on XXX frequency), then all you need is just that. I gave up on CD's and have my music colleciton on iTunes and iPods. I use my iPad for Google, but Garmin is where I look to see things. whatever you needs are.....but don't think that you have to duplicate what Monaco gave you 10 - 15 years ago...

WHOA and Company HALT.... Back to Basics. The Samsung RF series works on Square Wave or MSW units. Again....check with the manufacturer. Second, unless you do a LOT of dry camping or boondocking and don't like the sound of your genny, then Solar is the only answer. NOT CHEAP....but an alternative. A Genny, run once per day....with a FOUR Battery Bank (2 6VDC in series and the pair in parallel) will provide 450 Amp Hours of capacity. As long as your run the Genny around 2 - 3 hours per day when dry camping, you have no issues with that size bank. This is from my own experience as well as countless folks here and at the Gatherings. As to the need for more than 2000 Watts. YES, if you purchase a "Surge Hog" refrigerator, it will definitely cut into your capacity. BUT, if you have a Samsung or similar, then you rarely, if ever, notice the surge. I was, as I said, a proponent of a separate inverter for the Refer....WITH a small 15A ATS. I looked at the costs and trouble of hooking that up. I said...."We'll see" and we have not had any issue. I probably WOULD put in a NEW 1000 Watt PSW Auxillary Inverter IF I needed MORE capacity. But, if you use the Energy setting on the Samsung when dry camping and such, you don't need one. Magnum upgraded their line to include a 2800 (may be 3000 now) so that you had 2000 watts of power and also 800 watts for the Refer. They provided THREE circuits. House, Microwave and Refer. You can purchase a very nice Xantrex PS-1000 (memory) and their 15 A ATS for less than $400 if you need it for the Refer. The cabling will probably run upwards ro $200 or so. The EASIEST way is to put the NEW Inverter next to the OLD one and Parallel the cables to the Inverter. Monaco use 4/0 Cables. that has MORE than enough ampacity to support 3000 watts. That will reduce the cost. THEN, you run the AC line from the back of the Refer Area to the Inverter... If you do it the other way and try to get the Inverter close to the Refer.....you spend a fortune. As to Lithiums. Well, as long as you have a state of the art NEW inverter and a BMK and know what you are doing and constantly monitor the and don't abuse them.....great. Many folks here have swapped from flooded to AGM's and had issues as they were not being properly monitored and charged and such. IF you abuse an AGM, it is toast. I would worry abut such with the Lithiums.... SO plan on a very expense Inverter to support the Lithiums....or you may end up with a very expensive mess. Unless I was an expert or had a really GOOD Solar and Lithium dealer, I would totally gut my MH and start out with a NEW Inverter designed for Lithium and then put in Lithiums and if I wanted a LOT of capacity....add a big solar farm to the top. Would NOT be cheap.... Batteries....$8K. Inverter (installed) $5K, Solar....$5k???. BUT, you would be set....