Tom Cherry

Coming in late. Here is one simple (at least to me) test(s) that you can make Pull the leads, one will do, from the Big Boy. That takes out the entire circuit. Get a 50 ft spool of #18 Line Cord (extension cord wire). Use alligator clips or put ring terminals on one end. Put that across the Positive and Negative of the Chassis Battery. Run those lead out of the battery box up to the closest window and into the motor home and pull them up front. Use painter's tape to hold the wires to the side of the MH. NOTE WHICH LEAD IS NEGATIVE (or test it). Hook up (alligator clips) a VOM to the leads. Now DRIVE it and test it and note the voltages as you drive compared to the dash and the VMSpc. I THINK that you will see a difference of about 0.2 VDC (Lower) on the dash. That is the case with my Magnum remote. The remote always reads 0.1 - 0.2 less than the actual battery voltage. OK...make all your readings at idle and on the highway and such. NOW...remove the alligator clip from the line cord NEGATIVE. Find the GROUND wire (incoming) to the MVSpc. Use a pin or tap into it. REPEAT THE READINGS. If you have a BAD ground, then that should show there. A lot of folks have run a new or supplemental ground from the DASH Ground (you can see it, usually, if you pull the dash top panel) INSIDE to the Chassis Stud outside. Typically, Monaco had a Ground Stud on the Firewall on the ROAD side. If you open the Genny and peer in from the Road Side, look directly UP from the side (road) of the Genny Cabinet. There is a cross bar or the frame about 2 feet up. If you look on that frame member, maybe a little to the right...say a foot, you will find a Chassis Stud there. Mine has TWO Green (#8?) leads which are the Dash Grounds. NOW, if you want to test, then reconnect the Big Boy. MEMORY says that when the House Batteries are down and the Magnum is pumping 95 Amps and in Bulk Charge, then the dash will read north of 14 VDC...maybe 14.2 or so. It helps to have someone read the Magnum. Whatever the voltage is on the Magnum Remote, I THINK that the Dash will read about 0.1 - 0.2 higher. I KNOW that when I turn on the Genny for AC in the summer, that the Dash voltage goes HIGHER as the Genny is charging the House and the Big Boy locks them in place. You can also test the Big Boy by having LOW house batteries and having the Genny running. Push the Battery Boost. If the Dash Voltage changes, then BINGO, the Big Boy is NOT engaged. Hope this helps...

Maybe. Monaco had to specify the slide pump and power and such. Lippert was great in finding out what I had and then giving me a substantial discount due to the fact that the original model had design defects. Most of the slide problems that folks, or Camelot folks, have are not in the pump, but in the design of the controls. Monaco made up a Diode Matrix and had an interface connector. That allowed them (Monaco) to eliminate the cost of a mating LCI Controller. I can't get upset with Lippert over this issue. My only complaint, and I will pass it back to them is that they need tighter torque specs on the motor nuts. The motor is probably an outsourced item. I spent 15 plus years as a Manufacturing Engineering Manager and fought proper torqueing of soft subassemblies (like gaskets on a carburetor and thin plastics). The Lippert motor has an insulator due to the fact that the studs protrude through the motor housing. I snugged that up. The potential is as the motor runs and thermal cycles, the insulating boot or grommet can shrink. I THINK that was what happened to my unit. No one KNOWS how Monaco designed the hydraulic system. Lippert provided the who assembly from the cylinders, balance or T unit, lines and pump assembly. YES, it could have been about 25% stronger. BUT, it wasn't and the cost of upgrading to an HWH unit would be in excess of $10K. I still rate Lippert as a good vendor. They have provided me with tech support anytime I needed it.....as long as I had the Lippert PN and not the OEM.

EPOLOGUE Ok. NEW Lippert Slide Motor (Pump, Tank, Valves, etc) System was installed. I did the following to avoid future issues. Installed a Supplemental Ground. Ran the old Ground UP to the Dash Chassis Stud (right up from the pump). Then terminated or attached it there. Made us a new 1/0 Cable and ran it directly to the Pump. The original ground was from a stud on the Curb side that was used for the Generator Start and the Hydraulics. GOOD GROUND NOW. Batteries were a little low, so I measured some voltages with the Genny running. Magnum was kicking out 95 Amp per the meter. Had some very interesting readings. I have TWO sources of power for the Lippert via a 300 Amp Blue Seas Selector Switch. The Chassis Battery was delivering maybe 0.50 VDC higher. However, the amperage was really high. Running in the 130 - 140 A range. The Rated FLA of the motor is 65. NOT GOOD. However, as the genny kept bringing up the batteries, the big slide ran smoother and faster. Drove it home and let it charge for a few days SO...I thought about it and also talked to Frank M. Decided to run some more tests. SO, Here are the results. Decided NOT to mess with the original House Feed. MAYBE it is OK and MAYBE NOT. The Chassis is FINE, so that will be my primary source. I also figured out that IF IF I ever need to have a FULL ON Battery Boost, I have it in the Blue Seas as one of the positions is BOTH. Ran some tests with the Chassis feed and fully charged batteries. Once the surface charge is off the Chassis and the Genny is kicking in the amps, the slides still move nicely. Ran voltage tests (for drop) at several points. Getting less than 0.3-0.4 VDC Drop. The cable Delta V says to expect up to 0.8 VDC so I am pleased. Interestingly...the Main or BIG or HEAVY Slide is moving along nicely and it is pulling in the 80 - 100 Amp range. That was where it was when I first had the issues and when it died, it was well over 150. SO, probably the damage to the motor kicked up the Amperage SO....LEAVE IT ALONE. IT WORKS. Have provisions for BOTH Batteries if needed. Talked to Frank. We concluded....the 80 Amp Resettable Circuit Breaker is holding and has not kicked out and I have seen at least 140 Amps on my clamp on meter. The slides are moving nicely and evenly and smoothly. SO....only two things to do....KEEP USING THE CHASSIS and also, for backup, do TWO THINGS. I have ALWAYS been suspicious of the Lippert OEM connection or jumper from the Solenoid to the Positive. Today, I decided to "Rectify that". I also am UNDECIDED about the upstream protection sizing. One of Monaco's prints actually lists the 80 Amp breaker that Lippert recommends for the 65 FLA motor. BUT, I am measuring, for the short term, up to say 140...but it is running. Decided on the following... Ordered a 100 Amp Breaker. Will keep as a spare. I have the original 150, but it is a bit "lackadaisical" and I don't trust it. Will NOT install the 100 A breaker, but keep as a spare. Takes 10 minutes to swap out and you can DISCONNECT power via the Blue Seas switch. Made up a NEW connector for the Motor (from Solenoid). Pictures included. The original jumper is a #6. It is PUNY. Frank says the voltage drop would be less than 0.05 VDC. BUT, it makes me feel better. BTW...LIPPERT STRIKES AGAIN. The tech at CW made sure that the Negative Motor Lock Nut was tight. I should have had him check the Positive. I pulled off the old lead and OPPS....loose. Probably NOT an issue, but I THINK that was what killed the motor originally. I tightened the terminal stud and put on the NEW 1/0 jumper and also put an external tooth locking washer in place. That's IT..... The motor picture shows the puny little jumper.

Bob, Thanks. That makes sense. The term "Pressure Switch" was what was confusing me. YES. We are DEFINITELY on the same page. My ONLY comment regarding the use of the Bosch relay was a 2010 or so Monaco Tech Support (back in the days when you would talk to Jim or the OTHER REAL folks in Oregon) comment. They had a file note that the original AquaJet RV55's would sometimes blow or pop the 10 Amp fuse, On the Camelots (Scepters) and above, the pump was part of a Multiplex system. There was a 10 Amp fuse on the Multiplex Module, EASILY accessed in the Main Power Cabinet. Monaco had folks swapping that fuse or upgrading to 15 Amps. The wiring was all #12, so there were no issues in ampacity. There were maybe 2 or 3 members of the old Yahoo Group that had issues. I swapped mine out and later went back to 10 amps. My rationalization, and I fully understand and respect your electrical knowledge, was that if I were to upgrade a Shurflo or other conventional pump, I would use the Bosch as as not to use the FLA switch rating of the 10 Amp Intellitec module. I did that on the Sanicon and it purrs. As long as there is enough "Safety" and the Intellitec module's contacts are subjected to FLA of over 10 Amps, then all is well. The decision on the Bosch is purely a matter of personal comfort and perhaps, some bad experiences when you use the rated FLA of any switching device. Thanks for the clarification of the pressure switch.. JIM (Original Poster), Bob's comments now tend to reinforce my original diagnosis. If you can put 12 VDC to the pump and it works, then you have a controller that is TU (gone bad). That puppy is hidden better than some of the alleged secrets such as "Who shot Kennedy?". If you can get to the wiring harness, via an access port into the side of the wet bay and grab that harness and then (hopefully someone will give you a diagram) isolate the switch inputs, then making up your own harness and relocating the Control Module to an easier place would be my choice. I would also advise that you look at the Shurflo. If there is NOT an inline fuse, then resist the temptation to be "Cautious" and put one there. I have a replacement (Monaco Warranty) pump in my Camelot. It was shipped directly from AquaJet (before Remco bought the RV pump). I used their inline fuse as extra protection. That inline fuse holder crapped out after maybe 8 years. OPPS....I then went in and had to butt splice the connection. I DO have the Multiplex upstream fuse, which I reduced to the rated 10 Amps. It has worked flawlessly. Bottom LINE. DO NOT put a fuse on the pump where you will regret it. I BELIEVE that the Red Power conductor is fused, as you stated, in your DC House fuse panel. No need to add another failure point. The Red lead looks rather large. Hope this helps.

Bob, Curiosity.... The Pump Relay or Controller has an incoming pigtail. If I look carefully at the photo, there appears to be some wires coming OUT of it and going to the lower left. Is the Pigtail and the adapter in the picture the INPUT. That would have to be Power (RED), Ground (color?) and the THREE Switch Contacts. The output from the controller should be Power (Red) and Ground.. I ASSUME that he Snapdisk is for the System Heat. IF I understand the DIP's circuit, there is a pressure switch SOMEWHERE in the circuit. That has to be an ON /OFF switch. I don't quite understand, without a print, how that works. Is the Pressure Switch downstream of the OUTPUT or the LOAD from the Intellitec? SO, if the pump is on (Controller is latched to ON) and the pressure is OFF (as in it has reached the preset limit) then the pump will not run until the pressure drops and the Pressure Switch Closes. Is that how it works? This is a WILD @$& Idea for Jim, the ORIGINAL Poster.... Tearing into the back side of the water cover panel is MORE than a PITA. I would consider doing this... Getting the Diagram - Hopefully, you, Bob has it. I would access the wet bay (I have a panel) and find that harness. I would then use some "pins" and puncture the wires. I would verify the THREE Switch Leads. I would verity the RED (Power). I would verify Ground. After that, I would purchase a NEW Intellitec Controller ($35). I would purchase a Bosch relay and socket ($10). I would purchase an AquaJet RV55 Pump ($210) and replumb and rewire that puppy. Use the ORIGINAL Switch leads to the NEW controller. Hook it up the way is should be. BUT, I would then install a Bosch Relay for the Pump. SOME folks have had to bump up the 10 amp fuse for the Pump to 15. You COULD just hook it up and if the 10 Amp fuse ever blew...then add the Bosch. BUT, if you put in the Bosch Relay and used the Controller Output for the Relay and switched the Power on the relay, they you will never have any issues with the controller. Adding the relay when you did the install will take maybe 10 minutes longer. You can STILL leave in the 10 amp use. You tap into the RED on the INCOMING side of the Controller and use that power for the Bosch. That is what I did on my Sanicon when they upped the motor amperage. That would give Jim a NEW water system and one that would purr like a kitten. He PROBABLY has an accumlator which he can remove or leave in place. He abandons the pressure switch as the AquaJet has a build in controller. I would NOT attempt to take that panel off for $500 nor would I pay anyone. Just my thoughts. HOW if he can reach around or up or whatever and snatch off the wiring and mount a new one elsewhere AND get to the Pressure Switch...MAYBE. BUT, based on is posts...he is NOT getting a signal from the controller....which also maybe a faulty pressure switch. SIMPLIFY it and have a better and more reliable and quieter system...

The original post got lost in hyperwhatever. The HW50C, unless Progressive or Aladdin can tell you PROBABLY will not interface or is compatible. If you pull the specs off the Southwire site, the 40250-RVC has to have a separate Remote for standalone. SO, if you installed the HW50C, you would lose the interface. There is an RF22 output from the HW50C, but whether they speak the same language, only testing will tell. If you look at the features or the specifications of the 40250 versus the HW50C, they appear to be the same. Having read the specs on the original Surge Guard switches a few times over the years, I THINK that SurgeGuard actually reverse engineered their protection to mirror that of the HW50C. The original SurgeGuard all in one ATS had a lower voltage cutoff, maybe 95 or 100. It is now been railsed. The only difference is in the rating of the surge spike and the HW50C appears to be higher by maybe 5%. However, the real question...and not for you, probably is COST. A conventional LPT50BRD sells from $180 - $350. Amazon has them for $250 or so. Add in the $300 for the HW50C @ $300 and you get around $550. That includes the remote. Amazon has the 40250, and the meter and interconnect cable for around $825. That pretty much sums it up. You have TWO field serviceable components as the ESCO and the Progressive can have components replaced versus a combo switch that has to go back to the factory. EBay has some used 40250's and they are going for almost nothing. I have seen the SurgeGuard switches sell there for around 50% or so of best internet price. Just a matter or timing. As far as another display, that would not be a big deal for me. The Display is about 2/3's the size of a Magnum. I have a Vacuum Cleaner Toe Kick inlet right under my control panel wall in the hallway between the living and bathroom areas. I poked a hole in the expanded foam and ran the wire up there. That was exactly what Monaco did in the factor for the Solar Monitor. I mounted my remote on the wall area right above the control panel cutout. It is about eye level and I can see what is happening. If you have not have any issues...then maybe leave it alone. If not, then, unless the Silverleaf interface is critical, I would opt for the more conventional standalone ATS and the HW50C. Hope this help[s.

David, Thanks for the link. Your 40250RVC is comparable to having a conventional ATS and an HW50C. Here is the specs for the HW50C https://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-hw50c The rating of the HW50C is a smidge (150 Joules) higher. The 41260 does now have all the features of the 40250RVC when you look at over and under and open ground and such. The HW50C is pretty bullet proof. The side by side comparison of the three says that for best protection you either get the 40250-RVC or a conventional ATS and install the HW50C. https://rvpower.southwire.com/products/transfer-switches/50a-hardwire-model-40350-rvc-automatic-transfer-switch/ The 40250-RVC, HOWEVER, needs a remote and wiring harness for stand alone (not integrated into a compatible RVC device). Total cost of the 40250-RVC, cable and remote is around $825 from Amazon. The HW50C, with remote and cable, is a smidge over $300.. Nothing else to say....

Jim, you have a Shurflo pump. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/need-make-model-for-water-pump-for-diplomat-40pdq-431826.html You MUST find the Pump Controller. You have THREE switches that operate the pump. They are all tied together. When you push one button, that signals the Latching Relay. It will turn "ON". If you push that button again or one of the others, the switch (spring loaded) will send another signal and turn it off. All of your SWITCHES are spring loaded. Each of the three switches are in parallel or tied together so that one signal or push will pulse (Goes from ON to OFF or vice versa). Therefore you need to keep looking. Typically the switch will say "Intellitec". IF for some reason, you have toggle switches and they are ON or OFF, then someone rewired the system. The OEM configuration is for the controller. The prints are not going to be of any help. They do NOT show WHERE the Controller is located. There is also a Pressure Switch in the circuit. I don't know WHERE that is located. It will come ON when the pressure is low. It COULD be that the pressure switch is defective or was damaged. If you find the pressure switch, then pull the terminals or jumper across the wires. If the pump comes on, then that is the issue. Maybe a 2008 DIP owner can chime in here. Good luck. NOW if you have a bad pressure switch and the pump is erratic, then most folks abandon the Shurflow and put in a Remco Aqaua 55 RV pump. It has the Pressure switch installed or part of the pump. VERY GOOD PUMP.

The debate will rage about whether to install the 41260 SurgeGuard versus a conventional ATS and the Progressive Industries HW50C. The pros for a conventional ATS and the Progressive. The SurgeGuard 41260 is not field serviceable. The MOV's (heart and soul of the Surge protection) MAY have an alarm light or a warning light to say that they have been toasted. The HW-50C is 100% serviceable. There are only three components. The control board; Surge PCB (MOV's) and a Relay. There has been debate about how Progressive rates the relay. However, based on reading all the posts on the HW50C from 2010, when I realized that my Plug IN (external) SurgeGuard would not show WHEN there was a failure and installing mine, there has been only ONE relay failure. That was caused by a FAULTY installation. I spent a little time at the Progressive assembly plant in the RDU area and knew Tommy Fannelli, the owner. He was an EX-SurgeGuard field rep and SurgeGuard was unresponsive to field issues. He and his brother, an EE (PE maybe also), designed the Progressive lineup. They are assembled in the area. Tommy sold the company and the service level may be a little "lower", however, the parts are in stock and it does not take anything other than a screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers to swap out either board. They upgraded mine from time to time, so I know the drill. The most important thing about the HW50C is that you can NOT bypass it or use it if there is a Floating Neutral. A floating neutral can kill all your 115 VAC devices. When the neutral is floating or bad or gone (poor or no connection), the each side of the line (L1 and L2) try to make a circuit. There will be upwards of 160-170 VAC and that will fry your TV, Microwave, Sat receiver, Refrigerator, etc. There have been documented cases (on the old board) of folks having to try to get their insurance to pay for upwards of $15,000 in damages. NOW, Monaco did use the 41260 (or past equivalent) of it on the Dynasties and above. Many people are using it now. The question is...does it STILL have Surge protection? Bill G. will have to chime in here as to whether there is an alarm or alert. Will it automatically shut down when there is a floating ground? I lost a neutral once and the HW50C saved me. The neutral terminal inside the Molded power (Shore) connector came loose. BINGO. no Neutral or NO POWER. I had to swap and run the genny until I got home and trouble shot the problem. Most folks with models like the Camelot or Windsor or lower choose the HW50C. The cost of an ESCO LPT50BRD (same as Richard's LYGHT) and the HW50C is about the same as the 41260. There have been some members that pulled out the 41260 and sold it used on eBay and purchased a conventional ATS and the HW50C. The HW50C also has the remote readout. You can see the L1 and L2 volts and amps at all time. The error codes also tell you WHERE to look and WHY if you have a power problem. I have moved several times from one end of a CG to the other when all the units had their AC's humming and the line voltage was down in the high 90's. You do NOT want Brownout. I think that the HW50C has a higher (low voltage) value, so it cuts OFF quicker...been a while since I did a side by side. The 41260 seems to be an OK ATS, however, it lacks many features which I use and is also not field serviceable.... I don't recall any reports of any major issues....just seems like the majority of the old board that had lower food chain MH's installed the HW50C. If you have a NEW ATS, then it would be logical to install the HW50C and get the features and benefits and not throw out a new switch. I would not purchase a "Black Box" sealed (Non Field serviceable with NO Remote or any error codes or warnings) and use it. That is a recipe for disaster. That unit will NOT turn the existing ATS into the 41260......no way. Just my opinion and shared by many members over the years.

The heaters (when you are using AC) for the Gas/Electric are around 350 watts or so or maybe 800 watts max. Well within the 15 Amp CB capacity. I googled and found an 80 page paper on the thermodynamics and heat transfer and such on an "Automatic" ice maker. The charts show that there will be aorund an amp or so of energy required, when the cubes are freezing. Then there is a 1 - 2 minute spike in the wattage when the heater comes in. The heater is around 200 watts so you use about 1.5 Amps. watts. Bottom line, if you use the icemaker, you will, in theory, use around 15% of a 2000 Watt Inverter's capacity. Most folks do not run the icemaker when on Inverter Battery. There is an ON/OFF switch for the icemaker. I do not run mine while traveling as the water might splash and you would get clumps of ice. NOW...a WORD to the WISE. Monaco (others probably too), cheated. They ran all the internal outlets through a GFCI. Mine is a receptacle style. I found there were TWO downstream circuits (two pieces of Romex). I moved the Icemaker Outlet to the Incoming or Non - Protected side. Your home icemaker and microwave are dedicated circuits. You do not NEED (nor WANT) the heaters on a Gas/Electric refer on a GFCI. Any minor leakage MIGHT cause a false trip. The GFCI's get crotechey and cantankerous the older they get. So, they need to be replaced and the icemaker's heaters do NOT need to be there. My Samsung is NOT on a GFCI, after I revised the connections. It have NEVER given me a problem. The Dometic would False Trip

Youi are obviously well informed and experienced. All I know is that most of the factory, I think, Res Refers have the power split. The Icemakers are on the Inverter and the Heaters are on the 15 Amp REFER Breaker in the Electrical Panel. I don't have a clue with Norcold and Dometic separated the plugs. Monaco and others MAY have just put in a Duplex and you plugged both in. The 2009 Camelot prints show TWO receptacles, which mine has. I measured my Dometic 1402 and Tom Johnson's guys said it was WAY less trouble (they had a fork lift) to yank out a window and then move the Dometic (they pulled the doors and I found an operating rod that baffled me) out as well as bringing in the Samsung. Again, my Dometic had a lot of clearance. Bill Grove's 2006 Dynasty, I think, also had limited space. He actually added two low wattage 12 VDC fans and a T'Stat to improve air flow. That is why insulating is a prime concern as well as pulling out the insulation. Thanks for the info and comments.

Since this is your third, you are the expert. I only know what a read. I do KNOW that if you camp and it is cold and the vents (for the propane) are open, then the Samsung will DIE. Actually, the Samsung DOES require ventilation. You get that from the sides and the back and the top. It wants CONDITIONED ventilation, now COLD. From an HVAC Load standpoint, I would advise that you check the sides of the frames or where the Vent Covers go into. On mine there is an opening on each side. That will let in COLD and HOT air. What you are trying to achieve is a solid wall with the same R-Value as the outside wall. I filled in the two slots with the Sytrofoam (you could tape the outside and use expanding foam, I suppose). I then covered, on the backside of the Styrofoam, the insualation. I THINK that I used two thickenesses and also some HVAC Black tape and then the foil tape. My vent frame probably have a higher R-Value than the wall, but I don't have any cooling or heating issues. Good Luck...

Based on what I know and have read here... Monaco only started adding the INVERTER Powered Icemaker Receptacle (mine has separate boxes so they are NOT in the same box) when Norcold started to separate the two circuits. The original Norcolds, and perhaps others like Dometic, originally came with ONLY one pigtail or power cord. Then, based on demand, they added the second. Therefore, there was an ISOLATED or separate pigtail (power cord) for the icemaker. THEN Monaco, as well as the other RV manufacturers, put in TWO outlets. One for the POWER (heaters) which came from the Main Circuit 110 VAC Panel. The OTHER outlet was from the INVERTER, which powered the Icemaker. Thus, you could be on Propane and still get ice from the Unit as the icemaker was powered from the Inverter

You will NOT have proper air circulation around the Res Refer. You will have issues with overheating in the rear as the air flow must come from all sides. The insulation was for a Gas/Electric Heater unit. That blocked the heat from coming in. The Dometic or the Norcolds did not have to have the side clearance. If you leave it in, then you may have to add a couple of 12 VDC fans and a thermostat. One of our members had to do that even with side clearance as the area behind the Samsung was shorter and there was less air volume. The techs at Tom Johnson said that NOT removing the insulation was one of the most major mistakes that individuals made and that they had to reinstall many of them as they were not cooling. Just passing this on. Read the Samsung manual and the installation instructions. There is barely enough clearance. When you fill that gap, then you need to move out the walls. Does your home refrigerator or the built in's have insulation? NOPE! BTW, Monaco does NOT use insulation on Res Refers, only the Gas/Electric to keep the AC load from getting too high.

Had a dealer do it. They pulled a side window and used a fork truck Some folks have really abused and scratched their dashes.

Posts are correct. Test the outlets. Unplug from shore power and have the Genny off. In my 2009 Camelot, there are (memory) TWO boxes in the refer compartment. Plug in anything like even a cell phone charger and you will find (assuming the Inverter is on) and locate the Icemaker Circuit. Put a piece of tape or mark it. That is what you want to use for the Samsung. The other outlet should be DEAD as in NO POWER. Start the genny. You should have power for that outlet. Go to the Main Electrical Panel. Trip or turn off the REFRIGERATOR Breaker. That should KILL that outlet. You will not need it unless you decided to camp or go full time and be on Shore. BTW, you need to read the posts about installation of the Samsung. You sound knowlegeable about this process. Some things to consider on the Camelot FIRST, make sure you anchor it. I and others have used brackets on the TOP to hold it in place. If you pull off the sheet metal cover inside the upper vent, you can get to the top of the Refer. I used some metal plates up there and used 3M VHB double stick take and put in some wooden braces. I can tell you offline how I did mine. SECOND. REMOVE all the insulation once your pull the Dometic out. You do NOT need any internal insulation. If you leave it in, it will be detrimental to the operation. You need air circulation around the Samsung, otherwise, it will overheat or not cool properly. THIRD. Do NOT put or build a surround around the front. Many folks have had custom cabinetry surrounds or even had an automotive trim shop make a vinyl surround. You should have an opening that is clean. I had a drawer UNDER my Dometic. Pull out that Drawer and cut the opening so it is flush (sides and floor). The Samsung should fit fine. If you try to make the Samsung look built in with maybe a 1/4" gap, you will be restricting the air flow. FOURTH. You will need to totally insulate the Refer Compartment doors - TOP one and BOTTOM ONE. If you do not insulate, you the Samsung will not operate in lower temperatures and cut off. I KNOW.....Mine was put in during the fall in the NC Mountains. It shut off many times. Lowes sells Styrofoam panels maybe 3/4" thick. I used that and the foil backed HVAC Tape. My panels are now tight. You also need to make sure that you seal the openings on the sides of the Refer Compartment frames. They have slots. The reason... with the Samsung installed and the Dometic (or Norcold) removed, you need to totally SEAL the outside wall. The insulation that Monaco put in was for the Gas/Electric. You want the outside wall sealed like a home wall. I have attached pictures of my panels. You can also buy some foam backed HVAC tape at Lowes. Whatever works so that you seal the side openings of the frame and insulate them as well as the covers. Your MH will be warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. The Samsung will not run if the temps get below about 35. I thought I had a bad unit. NOPE.....the newer refrigerators are all that way. The older refrigerators or freezers could be left in a garage or a carport or such and would work. With the Energy Star standards, the manufacturers had to limit the environment operating temperatures. We like in central NC and the Samsung tech told me that he gets many calls in the beginning of the winter where the Samsung units will cut off when they are in an open or poorly insulated garage. FIFTH. If the Samsung goes into "CRAZY MODE" and does not cool and you can not adjust the temperatures, there is ONLY ONE FIX. Unplug it for about 5 minutes. It will then reset and come back on and work. I was camping at Tom Johnson's RV (now Camping World) in Marion and they installed the Samsung. It quit several times in the middle of the night as it was in the fall and there was a quick freeze. The outside temps dropped into the high 20's. I thought the Samsung was bad. After I got home, I insulated the covers and sealed the holes on the sides of the frame. The Samsung has not had any issues since then. NOW, again...remember that ALL brands have a narrower operating range now, so the Samsung is the same as most. IF you have the Dometic Unit, then pull out ALL the shelves, the plastic bins, the mounting hardware for the racks and anything inside. I used the plastic crisper bins and put them inside the Samsung. I put WHITE Duct tape on the bottom of the plastic bins. I put matching strips of White duct tape on the top of the bottom shelf. We use them for water bottles on one side and canned drinks on the other. Really neat. We pull out the bins and fill them from the home refer and put out there. I also added TWO of the spring loaded double bar Refer Shelves (Camco makes them and CW and Amazon sells them. They work well and keep things from sliding around. BTW....if you have the Dometic 1402, I sold ALL the interior parts on Ebay. I got over $200 for them. I should have pulled the control boards. You MIGHT want to gut the rear of either the Norcold and the Dometic for the control boards. THEY HAVE VALUE. FINALLY... You SHOULD purchase the Fridge Fixer. This is the ABSOULTE best and easiest lock for the Samsung. NOW...many of our members have come up with devices and Velcro and such. They are great, but if you don't want to reinvent the wheel, then this is one that I PERSONALLY have tested and talked to many members. It works. When I store the RV, I leave the Samsung's doors open and put the KEY or the LOCK on the steering wheel to remind me to LOCK IT. Good Luck. PM for info on the mounting system that I used.

get RID of the circuit breaker before you mess up the motor. THEN call Lippert. Get the NUMBER off your unit. GO TO PARTS FIRST. Then get them to give you the INTERNAL Lippert number. Since you have a replacement unit, you may NOT have the OEM number. That was my issue. If you have the REAL or the Replacement Lippert PN for the Hydraulic unit, then Tech Support can help you. If you look on the build sheet....that is the OEM number. Your unit probably has a DIFFERENT PN... Good Luck

OK...Lets start at the top. FIRST. You have the MONACO GOOF that burned up my motor. The motor in your hydraulic system (I looked at your manual) is a 65 - 70 Full Load Amp motor. Monaco, for some unGodly and assinine reason put in a 150 Amp Resettable Circuit breaker. That needs to be changed. Now, if you call Lippert, the Tech Support will NOT recommend or state the upstream Protection. BUT, when I actually talked to a tech support person and told them I was blowing the 150, the answer was WHAT? Then we looked up the motor and found the specs. They RECOMMEND 80. SO, Order one from Amazon. You will kill (I know... I did) the motor if you allow it to pull upwards of 150 Amps. That is JOB 1 or the first step. Next up. If you look at your pump, odds are it has a ROUND Trombetta Solenoid. Those are cheap and you can buy them on Amazon for $35. I posted the PN. The ONLY what that you pump motor works is when the Trombetta is ENERGIZED. SO....THREE potential problems.... First...there is some CHATTER in the Trombetta and it is closing. Odds are...NOT. BUT, it does happen. These solenoids are pretty BULLET Proof. IF Lippert replaced the unit under warranty, then they MIGHT have swapped the circuit. There are only TWO styles of Solenoids. The Trombetta just applies POWER and the Motor rotates (Clockwise). The valving (you should only have TWO valves in use or two Pigtails plugged into the valve manifold. One for the CURB and one for the ROAD. If you have the ROUND solenoid with an incoming RED and and outgoing black to the motor, then that is the older style. Lippert, in some models uses a REVERSING Solenoid. That is more of a rectangular design. It is easy to spot. There is ONE incoming line. There are TWO going to the motor. The motor REVERSE (remember that when you reverse polarity on a DC motor, it runs the OPPOSITE direction. SO, if you have a Solenoid with THREE cables (one input and the OTHER two tied to the motor, then you have a Reversing solenoid. DOES NOT MATTER. The solenoid has to have a SIGNAL. In your case, it comes from the Lippert Controller. When you push the CURB IN button, then the controller will do one of two things. If you have the ROUND and Single Contact solenoid, then the motor runs....CLOCKWISE. The Lippert Valve for the CURB does the switching and the fluid flows one way. If you push in the CURB OUT...then the Controller sends a signal to the Solenoid (to start the pump) and THEN the valve reverses. If you have the THREE cable unit, then the motor just REVERSES. Bottom LINE. What triggered the problem. Many things....COULD. First, if the switch (in/out) on either slide was pushed...or started to make contact, then INSTANTLY, the SOLENOID engages and the pump starts. BUT...If that happened, then WHY did not the VALVES move. If the switch is OK, then the LCI controller must have had a HICCUP. The pump will NOT start without a signal from the LCI Controller. If you DISCONNECT the wires the Solenoid and push the either switch, the Valves will cycle, but the Solenoid will NOT energize. I can't tell you WHERE the problem is...but if in the middle of the night the pump motor starts, then there is probably a BAD switch (highly unlikely that is making the circuit) OR the Controller has gone flaky. The Fluorescent lights have been known to put our RFI and mess up the Intellitec. Could they mess up the controller? Who KNOWS. The signal from the switch is PROBABLY positive...so it is NOT a ground issue. Wish I could help more.... BUT you have probably overheated and damaged the motor. BEEN THERE....I have a NEW pump assembly sitting in the foyer and it will be installed next week. The motor is almost $1,000. The whole Pump, Motor, valves, Reservior, etc. is $1600. I bought the who new unit. The labor to just install and set up the system would have pushed the total repair (new Motor and Solenoid) above $1200. Why spend $1200 when you can buy a new unit for $1600. NOW there are cheaper motors out there....if you google, IRV2 has a source for around $400. BUT, I have NOT had success with Aftermarket motors for Lippert. Wish I could help MORE> BTW....Lipper MIGHT give you a NEW (no Cost) controller if you order.

Fascinating. It appears that in 2009, Monaco added the BIG Printed Circuit Breaker panel in the FRB. OR you might have it and some well intentioned Assembler decided NOT to mount the breaker in the Front Run Bay and put it way up high and hid it The Breaker is WATERPROOF (or should be labeled). As long as it is an 80 Amp Breaker, you are OK. If not, I STRONGLY urge that you order one from Amazon and correct the problem. If you ever have a high resistance connection, you will damage the motor. While you are poking around, I will remove the nut and terminals from the motor. Tighten or snug up the locking nuts for the studs. I think this was my original problem. Clean and reinstall the terminal cables. I would do the same for the large Trombetta Solenoid also. It does not have locking nuts as the studs are pressed in.

All I was told by Tammy, as well as Luz, is that Lippert would provide a new, at NC, Controller when you ordered my particular unit....don't know if that is for a Jacks and/or Jacks and Slide unit. So, maybe that was ONLY for my old unit....which had three levels of design revisions....and Lippert abandoned the shoe box hanging reservoir. One point of clarification. Monaco designed a simple 6 Diode Array. 3 Diodes for each slide (main and other). That works off two simple Toggle Switches (IN OFF (spring loaded) OUT). The diodes are usually bullet proof. So, the wiring is simple and cheap. That is for the SLIDES. LCI said that I would get a new controller, FREE, if I needed it. I did not as the simple (but totally confusing and baffling to several service techs that don't have prints or understand what a Diode does... LOL) diode array and the LCI Deutch Pigtail or Loom would plug right in. Thus... a piece of cake. NOW....you have a burned (probably) motor in a similar unit, but the valving is way more complex and you need a unit that will interchange. The FREE controller was if LCI had changed the wiring or the valve functions. SO....I can't tell you if you will or will be offered one.... Hope that explains it... Each time I tried to order it, the agent said....We need to get Tech Support involved as we might need to include a new controller. Bottom line, I would try every trick to GET parts to find me a NEW and Complete unit as spending 65% for two parts is not cost effective for me. Anything above 50% in manufacturing (Repair vs Replace) is the Rule of Thumb and I can probably think of at least 50 major projects over the years that my boss and I interceded and upgraded. Let us know how this goes. IF you find the correct LIPPERT number for your unit, shoot Frank McElroy the info. Include all the pertinent stuff like old PN, old Motor PN, etc. and replacement numbers....that LCI tech support can look up. He will include in the Parts List. Thanks...

Patrick Here's the DEAL. Your 645480 number is the OEM (as in sold to Monaco). Lippert Tech Support does NOT have the OEM parts in their "System". SO, here is what to do. Clean off the motor and get the part number. COULD be 414950. Also get the number off the tank (if there is one). Call LIPPERT. Do directly to PARTS. Do NOT go to Tech Support. Ask if TAMMY is available. If so, talk to her. BUT, if not, then do the following. Give them your 645 Number. They will cross reference it and give you the LIPPERT Replacement. Doesn't make sense...but that is what it is. The 414850 OEM motor is 179327. That can be found on the Lippert Retail page. When you have the CURRENT Retail part number, then you can start. might be this one. https://store.lci1.com/vertical-pump-assembly-183827.html It is a a BETTER DEAL to buy the ENTIRE pump assembly. At least for me. The motor was almost $1000. YES, you can buy different "off shore" motors....but I tried that on a step and it was a bust. You will also need (common sense) to replace the Solenoid. If I had ordered the Pump Motor and Solenoid, it would have been almost $1100 with tax. I purchased a NEW PLUG AND PLAY. If you order a NEW UNIT, it has a NEW wiring harness. Lippert will GIVE YOU (that's what the said) a BRAND NEW Controller for FREE. Think about that. Retail parts is the only way you can get the correct part numbers. Eventually, you will need to go back to Tech Support. Tech Support (ask for a lady named LUZ) will figure you what Controller you will need and you SHOULD get one. That is the drill took a LOT of time, but Lippert came through. BTW, you will save a BUNDLE on putting in a NEW unit as the tech has to totally take everything apart. I saved $300 PLUS in labor by purchasing the NEW unit. Plus I have ALL NEW VALVES and such. That worked for me....and I've been down the path. YOU MUST cross and get Retail Parts involved. Rest was a piece of cake... Good Luck

That is fascinating. I would be curious...but it is not my MH, where the power for the Lippert comes from. According to Lippert, the main power (to the solenoid) is supposed to be protected with a 80 Amp fuse. REV has stolen or taken down all the older HR info or at least I can't find it. If you look at the Camelot...the twin that comes down the same line, you hydraulic system is different from mine. Your's had a REVERSING Solenoid. The main solenoid is mounted on the top. 12 VDC comes in. Then depending of the direction, the polarity is reversed and the motor reversed. Mine runs ONE WAY....CW. The valves do the reversing. Regardless, the motors are identical. They have to be protected at 80 amps, otherwise they will overheat when there is a high resistance connection...

When I was an Sophomore EE student in 1964/65, Professor Seagroves might have explained it that way in EE 201-202. Can't recall. Bottom line. Lippert says that if the voltage (FLA or under load) drops below 12.5 or so, that you can damage the motor. That sounds idiotic since you would have to have fully charged batteries. Therefore, to follow Lippert's trouble shooting guidelines, you would have to be running your Genny to be recharging the batteries while operating the slides. If you are on shore, in my case, the Big Boy connects the House to the Chassis. Conclusion... High Resistance connections dissipate heat. Voltage at motor drops. Resistance increases as motor is getting hotter, i.e., the current draw increases (EE Patron Saint Ohm or maybe Kirchoff...been a long time... said that). When the current (FLA on motor) increases past 80 Amps...it starts to burn or damage the motor. This motor does not have internal protection. In my case, the motor saw almost 2.5 X the normal FLA amps...and it got toasted...

Refer to original post. There is a picture of the CB that I used. I do not know how the circuit was run or installed in other years and/or models. I have included the two pages (PDF) from my owner's manual that show the breaker. We know that the Monaco Owner's manuals were the "LAST" in line for updates and/or Print revisions. Here are the Prints - Owner's Manual for Slides High Current with note showing error High Current with Big Boy - note that the correct Resettable Circuit Breaker is used. Living Room Slide Print. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. If you follow the print and look at the pictures, Lippert supplied the pump unit (as well as my replacement) with a gray 8 pin (Deutch) connector. It is visible in the pictures. The MH "End" from the switches in the Control Panel area to the Pump (Lippert End) was a CUSTOM Monaco Harness. PAY ATTENTION to the print. You will see that there is a Diode "Bridge" or array on each slide. These 3 Amp diodes are what makes it work. NOT MANY Techs KNOW THIS. Camping World pulled up their own data base of "GEE>>>That didn't WORK" internal Tech notes. There were THREE, according to the service writer, NEW PUMPS installed and they did NOT fix it. FINALLY, someone looked at the prints. The issue was a SIMPLE 3 Amp diode that failed. IF there is a Retract or Extend issue and only ONE way works....the SIMPLE thing is to check the voltage or the signal to the VALVE. If there is NO SIGNAL...it is in the MONACO end and that Diode Bridge or Array needs trouble shooting. I have never found where the diodes are located. They could be behind the Control Panel or in the Genny compartment just upstream of the Duetch connector. FOLKS spent a LOT of money for a $3 part and MISDIAGNOSIS.... Camelot OM Manual Override of Failed Slide Pump Motor.pdf 12V High Current Dist TGC Rev 1..pdf High Current 12v with Big Boy.pdf Living Slideouts.pdf

Bob, Your Scepter is a Camelot Twin. YES....the Lippert design was crappy. I figured out that the unsupported reservoir was an accident waiting to happen and I and several others as well as some of the original Monacoer's all added brackets (mine also had a rubber strip for vibration) and I have not had any "Hydraulic" issues. I THINK that someone could pop in a motor and replace the Solenoid and it would run a LONG time. It was a HIGH RESISTANCE connection. When the voltage drops, due to a high resistance connection, the current goes up...almost exponentially. Simple physics and Ohm's law. Monaco GOOFED. NOW...if you have the same 150 CB as mine, you are at risk. The CB needs to be an 80. THAT you can take to the bank...so I advise that you look. YOUR's MAY be different. That is straight from Lippert. As to the Hoses....mine are fine. I can tell you that Lippert supplied all the slide stuff from the cylinders to the balance cylinder to the hoses and the pump. I HOPE my hoses work...they have not shown any wear and the connections are TIGHT. As to the nut. Mine has a 1/2" Hex Washer nut on it. I popped on a high torque 20 V DW Lithium drill and set it for CCW and opened the front valve as I could read MAIN (big) on the back valve. If I had set the DW to speed 3 (less torque than speed 2), the slide would have moved quicker. I just had my buddies PUSH so as not to strain the motor. I THOUGHT that I read somewhere that the motor shaft was a LEFT HAND thread... Mine never popped off or had issues. Lippert was more than fair with me when I asked if there was any price or other consideration on the pump. They sold it to me like I was a distributor. I can NO say enough good things about how they handled it. I even looked and the wiring harness has the 8 Pin Deutch plug...so it will plug and play. Can not be happier. Lippert, I THINK, gave out a lot of pumps and such when they realized it was a design issue. I have a square tank now. So, we will see. I have issues with Monaco's wiring....and it is NOT the wiring....it is the assemblers. I have read so much over the years. On the Scepters and Camelots, the ONLY wiring issue or factory goof is in the 12 VDC Slide Mounted awning. Monaco used a wire or cable that was one size too small. The wiring issues that I have seen or helped trouble shoot is the fact that Monaco DID try to put TOO many wires into a Butt connector or combine....especially ground. PESKY, but fixable. As far as the high current cables go....no issue. Hope you have the correct CB as that is a DISASTER waiting to happen... Probably so. But after 65K miles and twice the cycles, the ONLY slide backout that I had was when the MH sat in storage for about 18 months after my accident. The big slide moved out maybe 1/2" at the bottom and I just tapped the RETRACT and it popped back in....