Tom Cherry

Obviously COVID-19 is impacting us. Maybe the driver was listening to Homer and Jethro's "Going 90 miles an hour when the chain on my bicycle BROKE". There is NO further (at least as of yesterday) on the condition of the folks that were in the MH or the police report as to the cause. THINGS happen..... We were stranded on I-73 North just south of Greensboro around Noon last Friday. A 56 YO Male crossed over There were cables on both sides) from the South Bound lane in a Toyota SUV (no model given) and collided with a North Bound Semi. The driver of the Toyota did not make it.....instant DOI. The driver of the truck was shaken, but not life threatening. The NC DOT closed the road. We were about 5 minutes behind based on the traffic. TOO CLOSE for my tastes. We had to get into the inside lane of the North Bound lane and then move over into the grassy shoulder (it was very wet and mushy) and do a 180 deg turn and go BACK UP the angled ON Ramp for a crossover. We were then routed through Level Cross, NC. If you were a NASCAR fan, you MIGHT recognize Level Cross. The First Station there is #43..... The fellow that drove that car for years built them the building, I was told (no research....makes a good story). The VFD labeled it as Station 43. I doubt that had another 42 scattered about.... PLAY NICE.....we are all a bit testy.....

That is areal BUMMER. Maybe things have changed since July of 2018. When I contacted Duncan, it took all of 10 minutes and the lady sent me the print. I measured and muddled over it and wanted to make sure that if fit....as the prints were for the "Frame" without the interior and exterior bands or bezels. I then contacted the folks in Oregon (about 4 hours SOUTH of where I was) and they were totally booked up. They went through the same process and told me about how they used the laminated NON Tinted safety glass. I chose, as I said, NO TO GO THIS ROUTE. I can't remember the costs per pane, but the OEM Atwoods were $875 total. That DID include Duncan doing the window disassembly, but NOT the window removal. Dad gummed shame if Duncan has "downsized" and does not have the same level of support and knowledge as they did in 2018. They had ALL the prints on the windows and they had a cross reference system that quickly identified WHICH Monaco (HR) that they went in (Model, Year, Location, Etc). SO, it was NOT a big deal to get the right window. Gary, reread your post. You may have hit on the issue. My windows were "Straight Cuts". You cut the raw glass and then tempered them and maybe "tinted" (that might have been built into the raw glass). Your situation and your older radius may be the issue in that Duncan's vendor does NOT have the capability (or wants to set up for it) for a non standard radius. From MEMORY.....the glass vendor that Duncan is using is NOT the same vendor that they had years ago, before they downsized (due to the economy) and the lady told me that she had to spend (as the Operations Manager for Duncan....when they BOUGHT ATWOOD....a LOT of time with the new vendor to set them "set up" so that they could supply the same (equivalent) panes. Your radiused window may be the culprit. If you find out, let us know. If you keep calling and try the Duncan numbers that I have....that would be a GOOD question. I regret that I do not have the name of the "Manager" that handles the replacement glass area.....if you ASK who is in charge or runs that department and can get to her, I guarantee that she will know the answer. Thanks for the input.......

FWIW......I have read and reread the notice. There is a LOT of thought and wordsmithing that went into the submission. BUT, to me, there is one significant fact.... The RETROBANDS are failing at a temperature that also puts the TIRES at Risk. MOST of the published articles and the comments from various testing and even the Tire Manufacturers "Engineering" Groups sort of (with lawyers and engineers....that is as good as it gets) say... DANGER....WILL ROBINSON......DANGER. In other words, without my feeble attempt at humor and to get your attention, when you exceed 180 dF on a tire, you are a GREAT risk of a failure. Some will quibble and say.... OK, well maybe 180, but definitely 190 or others will say....NOPE....you are OK up to 170-175. BUT, if you really want to be conservative....and one should when it comes to TIRES....you want to stay in the 160 - 180 range. NOW, if I read the text....the RETROBANDS start to FAIL at 180 dF. Therefore, when you NEED the protection.....you are at risk of NOT having the protection.....SO, I would be leery. Next up....they have had several failures. HOW DO THEY KNOW THAT? Did a tire blow out and the band did not work? Or MAYBE.....the driver was tooling down the road and all of a sudden, the wheels (Steer axle) starts to SHIMMY or there is a noise like the front end is disintegrating? I DO NOT KNOW.....all I know, as Dave says, is that we have NOT had any Tyron failures. I can also say, as an engineer (and we have several here that have more advanced and relevant degrees.....PLUS A LOT OF SMART PEOPLE>>>>Degreed or NOT) that if you look at the pictures, then that is SPOOKY. There is a MOLDED in THREADED INSERT.....if I visualize it correctly. That is SPOOKY. I used to "run" as in I was in charge of Product Engineering and Design as well as Maintenance a LOT of Molding shops where we did all types of molding using a variety of materials. The Threaded insert.....molded in, would NOT be MY pick of "fastening concepts". The Tyron Band is a nut and bolt and there are NO cushion or vibration or whatever spacers or inserts in the mechanical lockup. NOW....having said that, I CAN tell you (and have pictures that Tyron sort of "glossed over" that Lazy Days did NOT install my bands correctly in 2010. I fixed that in 2012. An improper installation takes on MANY issues. Having a hulking tech overtighten a bolt is one thing....but overtightening a fastener in a threaded insert is really risky. The THREE things.....that are important with the TYRON Bands. First.....After the second installation, you MIGHT want to change out the spacers. THAT is what I think went wrong with mine. LD got into a hurry. The bands are "Universal". There are (memory) 3 Colors or inserts or spacers. IF you just push in the spacer and do NOT hit it smartly with a rubber mallet, you run the risk of it not being seated. I think that mine were NOT seated. SO, as I drove and the band thermocycled and centrifugal force came into play, my spacers DID seat. That then allowed the band to slide (shift or move or work themselves to the outside). When I removed them (and I was there and helped the two tire changers), the bands were on the OUTSIDE of the well. To that end.....i installed and did the torquing and centering MYSELF. When I pulled the tires in 2018, some 35K miles later.....they were absolutely centered and aligned. Second.....center the bands. The spider tool makes that a lot easier to do. Some folks do it WITHOUT the tool.. Third... Properly TORQUE or tighten the securing bolt. The spec is 120 Inch Lbs or 10 Ft Lbs. You can NOT use a 3/8 torque wrench and get it correct. You NEED an inch pound device....or you need to "know" how tight, TIGHT.....is. My comments.....others may or may not agree.

Fascinating. My 2008 Penguins are 15K each. That is what the 2 AC Monaco's came with....and if it was a 42, you got the center which was a 13.5K unit. Thanks for that tidbit....

Been THERE.....DONE THAT. This is my experience in 2018. FIRST....verify that you have ATWOOD Windows. That should be stamped on the panes. If you can NOT read it, then I will assume that Monaco was using Atwoods, as they did in almost all their MH's, from the early 200's to even when Navistar had them. Mine is a 2009. I had the Drivers Large Pane, SHATTER" (bb gun or lawnmower....who knows) in July 2018. Here is who you need to call.... https://www.rvglass.com/ Duncan is the company (I don't know WHO owns them NOW) that has the "Atwood" knowledge. They have a special setup for that. You will have to give them your MH info and such. They will send you prints. NOW....the ISSUE.....their prints are for the INTERIOR (memory) of window as it that is what would be needed for the MH opening. These are NOT the exterior. So, you have to sort of GUESTIMATE the interior window dimensions WITHOUT the exterior or the interior frame. Once they sent me the prints and I started to measure the actual panes (mine was a THREE Pane Window.....two Fixed and one "Sliding"), I knew that I had the same window and that their prints were correct and that I would be getting the exact OEM replacement. Here is a copy and paste from my email.... Tom, This is the print for your window. Thank you, Jeanine Keb Customer Service Representative Duncan Systems 800-551-9149 ext 2019 OK.....NOW READ THIS. I spent about 3 days looking at options and this is what I found out.....There ARE other sources, but they do NOT use the Tempered and Tinted glass. So if you choose NOT to go the OEM route, then my homework will still, I HOPE, be of assistance. I found the OLD emails that I posted on the Yahoo site, so that refreshed my memory.... Atwood was sold and it ended up BACK in Elkhart. When I had mine broken, Jeannie said that the lady that ran the ORIGINAL ATWOOD Window Company still worked for them. She was right. This lady was a wealth of INFORMATION. Here was the drill. The window has to be CUSTOM MADE from a factory that makes a LOT of glass. The window typically takes about 4 weeks to be hand made. It is THEN inspected. Duncan has an assembly shop. I can't exactly remember the drill but I was having work done in Elkhart later that month and I opted to go the OEM route. FOR THE RECORD.....ATWOOD/Duncan is the ONLY company that will put in the ORIGINAL AND TINTED AND TEMPERED GLASS. They OTHER GUYS (one in Oregon with locations in TX and/or AZ and/or FL) use "WINDSHIELD" glass. That is NON-Tempered and NON Tinted. The scuttlebutt on the net was that some were dissatisfied with the "color" or side by side match.....but others had no issues. I decided that OEM for all three panes was my route. They cut and grind and fit in the new pane. You have Laminated Windshield Glass in that pane....not the tinted tempered. YOUR CALL. I spent about $900 for the NEW three panes. That included the Duncan labor to tear down and rebuild and refurbish my OLD frame. If you get the glass alone....I THINK it is cheaper. The window needs to be pulled. Fortunately, the shop in Elkhart had a lot of old Monaco folks and they pulled it. The shop foreman WARNED ME....and was right. The assemblers actually BEAT IN the windows and the frame had some outer damage that had to be straightened out. I took the window myself over to Duncan and they installed the THREE (I replaced all of them). The big was was the broken....but since they were doing it....I decided NEW is better. I DID call Northwest RV and spent a lot of time with them. They could NOT find the window. OK....then the window was put back in. DONE DEAL. NOW.....there are several ways to approach this....not knowing WHERE you are located. IF you have a competent window shop, they can pull out the window. THEN they have the option of crating and packing and sending to Duncan....who will (back then....2018) reframe the window and ship it out. BE AWARE.....the current vendor sometimes makes mistakes....so the Duncan Shop inspects and makes SURE that the window matches the prints and also that the glass and the seal is good. You COULD order the window pane(s) and when Duncan said GREAT - they are OK.......then I would decide HOW to get it disassembled and reassembled. The original Atwood glass had NO inert gas sealer or vacuum.....that is a MYTH. NOW, it MIGHT be possible to have a glass shop disassemble and CUT and GRIND a new piece....then send it off for TEMPERING. That is ONE local option. Tinting will NOT be the same....but who knows. That is about it. I lucked out..... OK....remember that I was in Portland.....and I had to DRIVE to Elkhart. I refused to CHIP OUT the window. If you get hit with a stone or something....then the interior pane will shatter. You do NOT want that. I opted to "tape it". I put on 3 layers of Clear Gorilla. DO NOT DRIVE IT NOW.....do this immediately. That worked for a while. I laminated it and then overlapped the gaskets and such. I drove with that for a while. But, since mine was the long vertical pane, it started to ocsillate and the interior shattered glass was falling. I stopped at at Lowes and bought more GORILLA TAPE (the regular Duct Tape). I also bought TWO thin strips or "cold rolled" aluminum strapping. Maybe 1/16 or 3/32. It was about 3/4" wide. Mine was "warped" so I preformed the strapping. I then laminated the top of the strapping with duct tape to the clear laminated Gorilla tape and bonded it to the FG. It looked UGLY. I had limited vision. BUT, I drove almost 3,000 miles and NONE of the outer pane dropped or continued to disintegrate. The shop foreman laughed and said.....I've seen a lot of repairs for windows. Typically with plywood and such.... Yours LOOKED ugly, but it was the best "fix" that I have seen. SO....don't knock success... Hope this helps. I have the original emails if you email me directly.....that was posted after the fix on the old Monacoer's site....that is what refreshed my memory..... It has been over 2K miles and several seasons.....still looks great and no issues now.... IF you google RVGlass.com, you get Duncan. That is how I FINALLY chased them down. I had done a whole lot of "research" and found that Duncan bought Atwood.....

Simple advice. Since you nor your son appear not to have the expertise or electrical skill set....find a Tech. Dealer or Mobile. Let them troubleshoot. Odds are the 120 VAC (outlets) is just a simple matter of finding the circuit breaker on the Inverter and resetting it. SIMPLE and CHEAP. 12 VDC or the LIGHTS.... Odds are, your Salesman Switch Relay is toast. Bypassing it is cheap and easy. Takes all of 5 minutes or maybe a $10 part from NAPA. You do NOT need it. Do not be "Hornswaggled" and pay to have it replaced. Pay to remove it or bypass it. That is the most cost effective and realistic solution. IF there are deeper problems, you will have to decide. For the interim.....make sure you run the Genny for a few hours every week or so to keep your House Batteries charged. Start and run the engine to keep the Chassis batteries up. NOT doing so will cost you more $$. Good Luck... Let us know....

I understand your problem....in that the case was cracked. However, from what I have read here and from what I was told by the LN tech support when I had a similar issue on a boat.....your new alternator MAY not be configured, internally, to properly work with your MH's wiring system.....as the LN was sort of "Unique". One solution..... If you have the build sheet or if someone that has a the same year can assist you, get the EXACT PN for the LN alternator. Then pull the PDF on it. That will tell you how the terminals work and what they do. Many folks have failed to get an AC Delco to work....even though the Delco terminals "Looked" the same. If I read the posts and understand it, then you do not have the correct configuration. I believe that the tach problem is a function of the alternator....as an erratic tach is always (or memory says it is), the FIRST sign that you have a failed or bad alternator. Bottom line, the replacement alternator has to EXACTLY Match INTERNALLY and has the same "terminals" (the stator, the ignition, whatever......and that is from memory) of the LN design. If it does NOT .....it will not (or so many people have found out) WORK. I am not being negative....but just advising you that there have been many (well over 100) alternator failures posted over the years. Most of the time, when folks try to get another brand to replace it, the effort was not successful. NOW.....some may have actually "rewired" and tried different configurations.....and may (we have varying reports) have got the other brand to work. But many have given up and purchased a new LN (same model or replacement) and then it was a straight swap. This is also a hot topic (memory) on IRV2.....so you might expand your search.....and see what folks have done to make another type or brand interchange. http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=75175.0 If you google "monaco leece neville alternator replacement and fix", you will get MANY hits from all the "net". Some GOOD and some REALLY BAD. But what you are experiencing is not uncommon.....so maybe the insights and experiences of others, assuming they are knowledgeable, will help. The thing, and you sound knowledgeable, to remember.....you need to know exactly WHICH wires go where on the original. That is why I suggested you ask for some help and get a diagram or pictures and such....so that you had the original configuration. This is the consensus of a LOT of Alternator Posts. NOW....maybe someone with some hands on experience can jump in here and give you the "Magic Bullet Fix", but I don't remember too many success stories.... Good Luck and if you get the aftermarket to work, please write up a "white paper" with pictures and also the "wiring changes" that got everything back to the original function. We can put it in the files and others will benefit in the future. Thanks....

I am surprised that no one has mentioned the advice that has been a mainstay for years. IF you alternator was a Leece Neville, then the most reliable and the most cost effective approach is to REBUILD IT. Now when it is rebuilt, find a shop that you trust and do NOT let them put in any aftermarket parts. You need OEM LN Parts. In addition, assuming (and I don't know by its age) that is had DIODES.....do not let them test and say. LOOKS OK. Whilst they are in there, they need to replace the Diodes as well. Many folks, over the last 11 years have had the same issues that you have. SOME have lucked out and found a tech that understood. MORE often, the end result was that they purchased a Guaranteed to work (according to the parts guy's computer) and it NEVER DID. That has been the adage since I joined in 2009. IF you have (you may have had to supply the LN as a core) the original or if you can GET IT BACK....DO SO. Have it rebuilt. YOU might be able to get someone with a similar MH to shoot you a picture of the wiring on their coach and then restore it. NOW....I have not read every post about every alternator problem over the years....only 90% of them. SOME alternators WILL WORK....but the tech needs to understand it and most do NOT. If you have the buildsheet for your MH, you MIGHT find the original LN PN and SN so you can call them. They will walk you through HOW it is supposed to be installed. Monaco may have done a lot of things wrong, but they finally DID figure out how to make their charging system work. Realize that this may not be what you want to hear....but the sad reality is that many folks have had to purchase a NEW LN (same PN) as they had before and then find a tech that could install it and terminate it correctly. A LOT Of money has been "lost" due to fritzing around with a supposedly "GUARANTEED" Alternator....and there has been some damage as well. BTW, the REV techs have no earthly idea of how Monaco wired the 2000 or even the 2009 MH's. IF they can find the prints, they will be lucky. Navistar TRIED to keep the old techs but when REV took over, they were put out to pasture. Only the electrical shops near Eugene, OR (assuming you have an Oregon MH) or the Elkhart electrical shops know HOW to really replace an alternator. Sad but true.

We are on the same page.....unfortunately I have seen family discussions and also online discussions about local vs online morph in the politics of people that are the online owners.....then that gets into the big box vs mom and pop shops and such. We don't want to go down that path. Each of us has to make our own judgement call as to who we patronize and why. If you have problems with Porch Pirates, then that is obviously a consideration for local vs online. What is interesting, at least in the Raleigh area, is that prices seem to have stabilized....maybe just the stuff that I need for me or for the Church or whatever. I rarely check an online price when I am in Lowes anymore..... They seem to be matching that Bezos guy's prices..... BUT, there is always an exception. I needed 30 fluorescent ballasts for the church. Lowes was $20 or maybe higher as one of our other "fixers" had been buying them there I did some research and ordered them for $10 each in a 10 each case quantity from Amazon.... Lately vitamin supplements (we seem to take more as we age and we are taking precautions with Covid) have become a commodity item. The online prices and CVS and Walgreens and Target and sometimes the local supermarket are all within 10%. SO, we purchase locally from Walgreens or our local Supermarket as NC now taxes all online purchases and we get 5% back on our AMEX card plus a 5% discount on Thursday.....which is SR Discount day. Even bicycle parts, which have been a hot commodity here, are about the same price in the nice, family owned or small franchised stores.....which was a little surprising. Glad you understand why I tried to keep this on track and leave out the politics.....we went down that path, way too many times on the old site.....

Jim, This is FASCINATING.....as well as confusing. There WAS a trend to go to the "European" system of separate turn signal and brake lights many years ago. I have read your posts and look at the various boxes. What I would do, before I did purchased something is do some real trouble shooting. You seem to understand HOW to do that. What confuses me....and you need to verify. Monaco did NOT PREWIRE the Trailer Connection for "Brakes" until 2005/6. I looked at your ONLINE manual and there is nary a drawing or comment about how to hook up or wire a trailer. The Brochure states that you have a 6 Pin Connector. I assume that MAYBE you have a drawing. IF NOT....then, since you have been testing..., I would verify how your trailer connector is wired. ODDS ARE....and this is a SWAG....you have 5 pins for the TOAD. That is Ground: Stop; Left Turn; Right Turn; Parking. So you have the EUROPEAN output. The OTHER wire or the 6th is PROBABLY for the Charging or 12VDC. BUT....I WOULD FIND OUT..... If i read your comments and also look at the other posts.....then you have a "3 IN" and "3 OUT" box. The ONLY difference is how the GROUND works. you can get THREE types. Powered....which are more expensive and a bit more complex. Grounded (as in your system....assuming it has the THIRD wire on the INPUT side) and UNGROUNDED....That only has TWO incoming wires.....the one that a poster suggested before we knew WHICH you had. That MIGHT work as the electronics are different. BUT....since you have 3 in and 3 out....go with that (MY ADVICE....your call). Your Monaco PROBABLY has the conventional (Old fashioned?) system. You have a LEFT TURN AND LEFT STOP LIGHT and the same for the RIGHT. So, you have TWO wires.... BUT you need to SPLIT that signal. You need a LEFT TURN, RIGHT TURN and STOP (as well as a Parking and Ground) for the European 5 light system. The Amazon device that was posted does NOT need the WHITE or the Ground. IF your box has 3 wires on each side....then you need a box with the 6 wires....one of which is the GROUND to make the Box's Electronics work. The Curt unit that Home Depot advertises or lists SHOULD be an exact replacement for your box. https://www.homedepot.com/p/CURT-2-to-3-Wire-Taillight-Converter-56196/205632568?modalType=drawer Whether you buy LOCALLY or order from Amazon is a personal choice that each of us HAS to make and we, the moderators, keep this APOLITICAL and we don't get into the politics of whether an IMPORTED part or item (country of Origin is PH or Phillipines according to the ASIN info) should be purchased from a local source or from an online source. It was NOT Made in the USA....end of that topic and discussion.... Same as the to the Ratcheting Crimper. You need a GOOD ratcheting crimper. No good electrician, especially automotive, uses the cheap pliers type crimpers. YES, if you have enough grip strength....but for a perfect, every time crimp....which is a DOUBLE crimp, you need a good quality ratcheting crimper. Wire nuts and soldering are NOT recommended for 12 VDC circuits on a motor home due to the vibration. NEC code for 120 VAC require a MECHANICAL connection.... (wire nuts or such). BUT, Wire Nuts are for things that don't move or shake. The 3M ScotchLok will corrode and also the "V" knife or cut into the insulation has limited surface. YES, I use these.....if I have to but I always try to CUT and SPLICE or use Terminals.... This should be clear now.....but do CHECK the circuits. Your post with the diagram and such makes me think that you now have a source and you have the electrical trouble shooting knowledge. Now is it just a matter of cutting and stripping and crimping. Your old black box....done bit the dust. It is almost old enough to join the Army... Glad we were able to help...

Your comment is interesting. We were Kayaking on Lake Tillery with the GK's last week. There are MANY lakeside lots that have really nice boathouses with elevated lifts and such......and some really NICE HOUSES..... BUT, there are a LOT of them with concrete pads and utilities and have 4W or Class A MH's sitting there. Some came in and out. Others are there for the season (tires covered and such). Your plan sounds great. Your lifestyle as well as others.....is unique to YOU and many may be similar....but not one of us has the SAME needs or interests. We will probably only do one more MAJOR trip.....the ABQ Balloon Festival. Otherwise, we will go to Emerald Isle and the NC mountains. We have about 3 weeks of a very nice TimeShare that we and my daughter and GK's enjoy. So, this year, we will still be "Out" for over 2 months. Practice your best Stephen Foster and Mark Twain imitation and enjoy the Suwanee..... Boats..... I had a nice 19 Ft I/O with a 302 Ford engine. I would get up multiple skiers. I gave up fishing.....when I took up skiing. I skied until I was 68 or so. I kept the boat and sold it when I was 71. That boat was about $17.5 K new with a Galvanized trailer. I bought it when it was 2 months old as the lad that had it impregnated his GF and SHE wanted a ring and a big wedding.....so the Boat had to go. I can NOT imagine spending $50 - $75 K on a Ski or Wakeboard boat. BUT, Lake Tillery was sporting a LOT of them. Who know.....

Chris, Thanks for the insightful and informative commentary. You confirmed what I suspected....but since there is a shortage of RV's, then I was curious. My points, which you helped illustrate are that .... People's "Recreation and Travel Lifestyles" have changed. NO DOUBT and they will continue to change and evolve. All I read says that we seasoned citizens may be in for many abrupt and interesting changes. We have Season Tickets for NCSU Football and Basketball. The BB tickets are in a "Club" or Lounge area where we have buffett meals and such. Until there is an effective vaccine and anti-viral treatment, then social distancing and masking and such will be the norm. We were CAREFUL when we attended the final Club Game as well as the first day of the ACCT. We have NC Symphony Tickets.....how can we go to a concern and sit in theater seating and be comfortable with masks on? I share your concerns about "conventional travel". I am not quite as paranoid, so I certain am NOT knocking or putting down your decisions. We have been on 5 trips this year. Four of them were MH Trips. In May, our favorite campground on the Outer Banks or Crystal Coast, Emerald Isle was BOOKED. we got a 6 day slot PRE-Memorial Day. Then in June, we went to our time share in Myrtle Beach. I talked directly to the Housekeeping manager. I knew what they were doing and they seemed to have a good plan. The issue MIGHT have been if the "workers" were infected while cleaning up, but they were masked and wore gloves. We decided to do a hybrid trip. DW had planned a week MH trip right afterwards with our GD. We had a three bedroom condo in MB. So, we went down in the MH. We went over on check in and verified that it had been cleaned and such. We spent the night in the MH. Then we went over the next morning. We carried bedding (sheets) and also used the spare bedding on sight. We sprayed and then covered all the main furniture. We sprayed down all the other seats and chairs (dining). THEN, we wiped down all the surfaces as well as the door knobs and light switches and thermostats and such. We opened the screened balcony doors and the entrance doors and I put the AC on RECIRCULATE. I turned on all the ceiling fans. That combo condo (it was two with a connector) aired out all day in the low 90's and HIGH humidity. Our family came in later that day and we all went back to the MH for dinner and they got back to the Condo late that night and buttoned it up. Our next trip or the continuation of that was to Charleston. We were CAREFUL. Charleston has put in partitions on the carriage rides. We ate out ONCE at a seafood restaurant where we walked through the dining area in masks to the outdoor patio and we were socially distanced out there. That and one meal in June have been the ONLY times we have dined out. In late July, we headed back to Emerald ISLE. PACKED. When we left on Friday morning, the Bogue Sound Bridge looked like the mainland was being evacuated to the island..... We found a small CG in rural NC on Lake Tillery. IT was PACKED....and many RV's were sporting TEMPORARY plates. Thanks again for responding. I did NOT think that there would be a surge in Class A values....but, like many, I think that we have not "lost" any major value. Never bought the Camelot as an investment. My goal was to have a great time and not worry about it. We have spent, in 11 seasons (skipped 2019) MORE on CG, Fuel, Insurance, Storage, Maintenance, Repairs, etc......than the depreciation. I knew that our retirement travel plan was not gonna be cheap.....but we planned for it so that we could enjoy the fruits of our working years and still leave our children a little "Extra". I know folks that have NO direct heirs (they have a LOT of nieces and cousins watching the death notices) and they are postponing retirement. Only a FEW actually LOVE or LIKE their jobs. Many are afraid of boredom. Many are afraid of running out of $$. If we did not have our kids and GK's, I would be in a Prevost and have enough $$ in the safe to bury both of us... We have had our 11 years of traversing the USA and Canada. We have spent almost 700 days in the Camelot. Our GK's have been with us for almost 9 months. Our kids have joined us for long stays. I would NOT trade any of that.....so if the Camelot is kept until it is only good for salvage....so be it. Thanks again.....

Jim, You need to look at the Amazon link provided. Order one of the boxes for $11 there. The wiring is a little confusing, but you will also need to following..... I do not recommend the Truck Spring complete kit as that is for a entire trailer where you have lights on either side. The Amazon link is the ONE THAT YOU NEED.... OK....Here goes. The THREE wires come from the MH Side or wiring. The TWO wires goes to your Trailer Hitch Socket on the MH.... That is important that you understand that... STOP or BRAKE LIGHT. That is from the Brake Pedal up front. That lights up the CENTER or the HIGH Brake Light. That SHOULD be the center wire on the THREE wire side of the box. Your MH Socket typically only uses 4 wires for a Trailer or for the TOAD. Ground Parking Light (Monaco directly wired the Parking or Tail or Clearance Lights to that pin. Left Turn/Stop Right Turn/Stop. OPPS.... Monaco has THREE separate wires for the LEFT Turn/ Stop and the RIGHT Turn/Stop. So they had to use the box to get a TWO WIRE signal. The color codes will be different, I think, from your pictures. You will need to identify WHICH wire is coming from the Trainer Hitch Socket to the Box. Here is my BEST GUESS..... The CENTER WIRE on the 3 side ....and you will have to use a test light when you cut it off to confirm SHOULD be the Brake Light. With the engine running, have someone press the brake and use a VOM or test light.....that will go to the WHITE wire on the NEW box. HOPEFULLY the Yellow and Green are correct. So if you test the GREEN (on the three wire side), that SHOULD be the Right Turn. SO the Yellow is the LEFT turn. I can NOT tell the colors of the two outgoing wires from the picture.... One LOOKS Green. If you chase that wire down to the MH socket....it SHOULD be the RIGHT Turn/Stop. That means the other wire (is it RED?) has to the the LEFT one. SO.....hook them up or test them. NOW....I do NOT recommend the Scotch Lock connectors (blue ones like the Truck Spring kit has). You will need to use Butt Spices and spice in a new box. That is really simple. Youtube has videos. I have recommended, if you are not familiar with this, two things to buy and have for the MH. I and several others carry a crimper and connectors at all times. https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Ratcheting-Crimper-10-22/dp/B07WMB61J5/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=ratcheting+crimper&qid=1596976718&sr=8-5 If that link breaks, then go into Amazon and put in Klein Tools Ratcheting Crimper. It is $25. EVERY MH OWNER SHOULD HAVE ONE IN HIS RIG. You will also need a Crimp Electrical Connection Kit There are MANY. This one looks like a good one. https://www.amazon.com/Insulated-Wire-Electrical-Connectors-Assortment/dp/B078PMWNJC/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3QO6J0JFNCBOA&dchild=1&keywords=crimp+electrical+connectors+kit&qid=1596977006&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_72%3A1248921011&rnid=1248919011&rps=1&s=industrial&sprefix=crimp+electrical+connecto%2Caps%2C166&sr=1-4 Once you have identified the wires, then strip back the insulation. Odds are, they will use the BLUE....but if Monaco cheated, then they will use the Red. If the wires easily slip into the RED...then use that....if not, go up to the next size, Blue and use them. That should do it. Good luck...

In the construction industry (in the US), when you have a large gap to seal (think the concrete tip up or set in place panels of a building), you purchase "Backer Rod". That comes in different diameters. The theory is that you seal the gap and the backing material or foam inserts prevents the sealant from dropping or setting back into the crack. If you have ever looked at a large building made from precast panels, some of the gaps are unbelievable....but with the right sealant and also the right backer rod, they last for many years. I would opt for a nylon scrubbie or such as steel wool will rust. NOW, admittedly, steel wool, especially the coarser grades, is a whole lot harder to chew....or so my rodent friends tell me....LOL

I have been spending a LOT of time on my NCSU Sports Blog. As a 75 YO and also a Retired Health and Safety Director....as well as being on the Board of Trustees at my church along with some other committees that are coping with how to "run a church by remote control", i have been following .... as many are....the COVID-19 Pandemic. I GUESS, for a background, that it hit us like a sledge hammer in early March. I suggested that we purchase Hand Sanitizers (when they were available) and after getting some consensus.....POOF....THEY WAS GONE. OK.....we were going to the ACC Mens BB Tournament in early March at Greensboro. Some of you know the background. I have been caravaning to that event since 2007. We have traveled to various cities and Greensboro is the "Garden of Eden". Our wagonmaster was the GM for a HR and Chevy and HD Chevy Truck dealership in Greensboro and he convinced the BOD of the Coliseum to put in an RV lot or section. He gave them his dealership electrical plans and also came over and spray painted the spots for the Electrical (50 and 30 and single 120) pedestals and the water. They found out.....it was a HOT TICKET. SO, each year, in November, we had to purchase our "Spots" for the March event. Since our head guy was the one that set them down this path, we got the prime spot. We even had a "Town Name" and he was the Mayor. We had big cookouts and fed the local cops and parking lot folks. We had visits from about 5 different local TV stations and such. We did interviews and let them set up on top of our MH.'s. TWO of our members would bring in the "Vehicles" from their businesses so they pitched in a little extra $$. OK....we set up on Sunday. The MBBACCT started on Tuesday. We went up and watched the Women's ACC tourney and came home and then went back on on Tuesday. On Wednesday, there was MORE and MORE talk about Covid. We kept out distance and used sanitizers and never TOUCHED a hand rail inside the building. We did NOT use the bathrooms. Late that evening, they announced that they night games would be the LAST with "FANS" and they would play the REST without fans. We set up our TV's and were outside and cooking....and THEN our "Mayor" got a text from a HIGH RANKING OFFICIAL in the ACC Conference office.....WATCH THE TV>>>>>>IT IS OVER. SO, we did. We then broke camp and went home. When the ACC and the NCAA canceled and then the NBA and then all the OTHER pro sports....that was a BIG DEAL....little did we know. Our sports blog has a lot of researchers and scientists and engineers and such. We now have a thread with over 30,000 posts. I learn a LOT there. BUT, we also have diversified. We talke retirement and cord cutting and "DIVERSIONS". ONE has been the skyrocketing prices and availability of upscale PU's and Boats and RV's. NOW....we did not pay too much attention. BUT, we have been out 3 times in the past month. There are MORE first timers out there than I have EVER seen. You can spot them....or their temporary tags. I looked at one guy's popup. I googled and it was the CHEAPEST Flagstaff Pop-up. $15K. OMG. I remember when the TOP END of the Starcrafts was $4,500 and I bought one because in 1977, there was NO demand and the dealer cut me a deal and also valued my old one at way MORE than I had paid for it. BOTTOM LINE.....many of our sports blogger's relatives are heading to LD and bringing back NEW MH. One filled up his new Mercedes powered one with Non-Ethanol.....as there was Diesel and Non-Ethanol on the same pump. It quit running about 5 miles down the road. No word on the "cost" of his first FILLUP. SO.....and maybe Chris can jump in here.....are USED Class A MH's increasing in price or is it just the newer ones that are in demand. I was at Lake Tillery in central NC last week. The number of $50K - $75K ski and WB boats surprised me. I had to GOOGLE and look at the prices just to believe that. Thanks.....

Chris, Thanks for sharing with us. Many of the posters have done the conversion. I talked to Dometic at length and posted the parts and such for information as a Moderator on the OLD SITE.... If you can give us some feedback on the following, it would sure be great. I posted that on the OLD board so it it gone. What I and others understood and you or Justin can correct that.... is this You can NOT use a new 12 Button Dometic T'Stat and make it work with one NEW Penguin and one OLD Penquin.... (OK....some folks say they have done this....but I am not gonna state that it works). Dometic says you can NOT "SMARTEN UP" or make the OLD AC's work with the "SMARTER" 12 Button T'Stats. SO you either replace ALL and go with the NEW 12 Button....or you stick with the OLD 5 Button and you have to MODIFY the NEW unit.... Dometic says to USE the OLD 5 Button T'State.....and you will need a "NEW CONTROL" board. These are available on Amazon.... They USED to be in the $100 range....but they have gone up. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JF2CXH2/ref=dp_cerb_1 NOW.....the caution here is to PHOTOGRAPH and Document to NEW UNIT. When the OTHER AC fails, you will probably spend the $150 for ANOTHER module (conversion) and put in the NEW 12 Button T'stat. That is cheaper....and THEN you have to put back in the NEW board and revise the wiring.... You have to "REPLACE" the NEW Penquin Control Board with the NEW control board. Dometic calls this...."DUMBING DOWN" the new HVAC unit so that it works with the old DUMB 5 button T'stat. The YouTube below details that. That is the MOST confusing part of the conversion. AGAIN....Take PICTURES. KEEP THE NEW BOARD (the one you removed). You will need it WHEN (not IF) you replace the OTHER(s) AC Units. Here is a YouTube Video that they recommended or maybe said....Go TO YOUTUBE.....it is explained there. Dometic says....ONCE AGAIN....that you must replace ALL of the HVAC units if you want the NEW 12 Button Thermostat. Thanks for all you help and assistance on this. This is timely as more and more of the old units (mine will fail also) are going out. Frank McElroy, "Mr. Parts List Guy" might be able to add this to the Parts List.

Gary, As Dwight tried to help.....let's try to be a little more specific.... I understand you and your son's situation....but we still need some simple things answered... First. You have NOT told us if you have an INTERIOR lights. You need to tell us YES or NO.....do you have interior lights.... Now WHY is this important. You Interior lights are 12VDC and come from your House Batteries. That means that you may have one or more issues..... SO.....again....12 VDC Lights are ON or OFF. Now for your son. You need to get out the manual and find the section that deals with the Battery Cut OFF Switches. You will have TWO. One is marked HOUSE and the other is marked CHASSIS. If the MH was in a shop for repairs, they MAY have turned OFF the HOUSE Battery Cut Off Switch. Have your son find BOTH switches. They should be in a compartment near where the batteries are located. Make sure BOTH Switches are ON. IF they are, and you do NOT have interior lights....then you most LIKELY have a FAILED Salesman Relay. That is NOT the switch near the door. That is a big sucker....the switch on the door supplies power to open and close the relay. If this Relay is shot or broken.....MOST people do NOT replace it. Tell the Tech that you want to BYPASS or eliminate it. He will know what to do. That is cheap compared to maybe a $300 - $400 total to remove and replace a part that is not essential. WHY.....you should ask. It was a STUPID idea. It was for the RV salesmen to turn OFF all the interior lights and not have to go into the Motorhome. I will state that 90% or maybe more of the experienced Monaco or HR owners that understand the function have disconnected or bypassed the relay and do not replace or repair it. NOW>.....ABOUT THE 120 VAC Power. You need, again, to get OUT your manual. Your son needs to read the section on the INVERTER. HERE is how that works.....so this explains things. Your Inverter takes 12VDC Battery Power and inverts it to 120 VAC or AC House Power. There are TWO circuits or Outputs on the Inverter. ONE is wired directly to the Microwave Outlet. The fact that you have the Microwave "lit up" tells us TWO things.... You also need to read this and understand. The Inverter (all of them....not just your Trace or Magnum) have a control board. IF that circuit board is getting 115 VAC (household power).....from being plugged in or from the Generator, then there is an Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) on the Inverter. That switch CLOSES. SO, the incoming power (Shore or Genny) is "transferred" or switched to the TWO OUTGOING Circuits. Therefore, the Trace (inverter) appears to be working. NOW......Remember, there are TWO circuits. One goes directly to the Microwave. That means that circuit is good. BUT.....ALL OTHER interior outlets are (probably) on a Ground Fault Circuit Interruption device. By DEVICE....I mean that you will have a Funny Looking Circuit Breaker in the Panel or somewhere. OR....you will have a funny looking Receptacle in the Motor Home. The GFCI Receptacle (if that is the one) is "OPEN" or TRIPPED> Your son can Google resetting a GFCI Receptacle on Youtube and that shows HOW to do it. You just PUSH a button. There are no tools and you don''t have to take it apart or get inside or see any wiring. NOW.....if that does NOT work.....then, your son is going to have to LOCATE the TRACE inverter. There MAY be two push button or PIN type breakers on it. You have TWO circuits... You MAY have TWO Pin Breakers. The one for the HOUSE outlets may be tripped. He will have to PUSH IT IN to reset it. Again. These are on the outside of the inverter cabinet. he does NOT need any tools, except maybe a flashlight to see them and read. Since you have power to the microwave, we know that you have good incoming AC. That is all we can do. If your son can not fix this or reset the or turn on the switches, then you will need to find a mobile RV Tech and your son will need to meet him there and tell him what the problems are and let him fix it.....otherwise, take it to a good RV shop. I realize your limitations.....but the folks here can not tell you exactly WHERE everything is or what to do. Your Owners Manual is the best resource.....and if you read what has been written, then you should begin to understand how this works... GOOD LUCK...

Bob, He does not have the Magnum like your system. Yes, you are correct. I have the SAME issue. But, your suggestion will not work for his issues.... Please let others that have similar MH's assist.... Yes, you are correct....the batteries need a little PM....but that is not the problem. Thanks,

PLEASE....back to Basics.... Do you mean that you have NO 120 VAC power inside the Motor Home? We need to know that. If the Genny is running, you MAY have a TRIPPED circuit breaker.... SO....please answer this. Does the Microwave or ANY outlet work (use a Phone Charger or whatever to test it). If you have NO 120 VAC power and the Genny is running..... THEN THE FIRST thing......open the PDF that I attached. That is from the manual.....assuming you have an Onan 8 KW. Have your son look at the genny. All he has to do is pull OUT the genny and loos at it..... If the Genny's MAIN circuit breaker is tripped or OFF.....you will have NO power even though the Genny is running. THIS IS IMPORTANT....help us out here. Now, the Switch at the Door. That is for 12 VDC power only. The interior lights. It has NOTHING to do with the 120 VAC. If the power issue is 12 VDC and Lights....then you probably have a bad Salesman's Switch. Shoot a picture of the electrical panel and folks will help you there. We can't fix something that we don't understand WHAT the problem is and so far, all you have said is POWER.....which is it....120 VAC or all the receptacles or the microwave.....or is the 12 VDC power for the interior lights. Thanks.... Onan Control Panel Circuit Breaker.pdf

Many have asked this.....and you have not responded. When you say ELECTRICAL.....what does NOT work.... The 115 VAC circuits (Microwave, wall outlets, HVAC, etc)? OR The interior lights and such. That is 12 VDC Power and comes from the House Batteries. IF you ran the Genny, then you should have had 120 VAC INTO the ATS and then switched or distributed to the Main Panel and then to the various other components (Inverter....which has its OWN ATS and passes through the power). NOW, if you do NOT have 12 VDC power, then the AC's will not work. They need BOTH sources. SO....folks need some more facts to determine WHERE to point you. If it is the interior lights....then odds are, unless you have replaced the Salesman's Relay, you have a faulty one. They can be bypassed with a short #4 12" cable from NAPA. OR, you just put BOTH cables on one lug is you have enough slack. VERY few folks here use that feature and all it is....is a failure waiting to happen. You also need GOOD 12 VDC power to power the Thermostats and also the Refer (if you have a gas absoption unit. NOW, if you do not have 115 VAC AC, then you CAN try to plug into power. The ATS SHOULD be normally CLOSED and passing through the SHORE. When the ATS senses or measures Voltage coming from the Genny, it automatically SWITCHES to GENNY....even though you may be plugged in. The Inverter has an ATS in it....so it if Senses or sees 120 VAC (Genny or Shore), it passes through the voltage and you have 115 VAC. You need to understand how the systems work in order to isolate or trouble shoot the proper component. Let us know WHERE and WHAT type of Voltage you are missing.....then folks can home in on how to help you. It would ALSO be nice to know how "Electrically" skilled you are. If you know how to use a VOM for AC and DC and also for Resistance, then they can provide detailed steps. Thanks....

What is the old adage about a visually challenged swine and the propensity or odds or encountering a seedling from a large tree that rhymes with SPOKE....? We have the sectional Villa J Sofa with the pullout air mattress. We rarely used it as our GK's would sleep on a blowup air mattress or when they were young, bunk on the folding Jack Knife sofa. We are spending several days and the blow up air mattress was punctured beyond repair. Over the years, I had used two hand towels and some zip ties and put them on the sides of the mechanism to prevent damage to the arms.....primarily the FLAT arm. Today....it hit me. I had pulled out the arm once before, but it was a PITA as I was in a hurry. SO, I started looking at the design and how it worked. The flat arm IS designed to be lifted UP, canted slightly to the front, slid forward and then canted down.....so it is removable. Monaco DID leave sufficient clearance under the side window valance for that to happen. Not too much, but enough. NOW the sofa pops out easily. No scratching or abrading the arm and you do NOT have to "REALLY YANK ON IT". Curiosity got to me. I called Villa. Why of COURSE, you SHOULD be able to open with the arm in place....but sometimes when the sofas are installed, they are bolted down and the frame will be a bit warped. THEN, the guy said, "BUT MOST FOLKS find that popping off the arm and stowing it while they are using the bed is a SIMPLER solution.", DUH.....NO LIE. SO, unless the bed is perfectly mounted or PUSHED away from the wall for a little clearance, most customers will remove it. SO SIMPLE. The Dealer's "set up guy", never mentioned that and I don't think there is an instruction manual. SO... I am posting this for general information. The things one learns after using a product or something for years. It is NOT like I have rarely used it. This trip will be our 683 day....or 594 nights. That is 1.87 YEARS..... Live and learn. Hope this will benefit someone else if they have the J Sofa with the fold out air mattress.... DUH.....

FWIW.....and I been there and also talked to the developmental techs (the guys that did the work). The impeller kit comes with a paper gasket. That is all. BUT, when you take it apart, you have to remove the big "O" ring that looks like a skinny and distorted rubber band. They do NOT sell these. The only way to get them is to buy the Head Kit. So....that is why I bought the whole pump. YES. I have a spare head kit and several impellers....but I got a spare pump. YES....I carry spares....

That depends.....if you have the ORIGINAL Sanicon, then you have the lower OUTPUT model. They upped the capacity to around 14 or so (memory) from 10. They also upped the current draw. The switch that turns it on.....UNLESS your Dynasty has a relay (we have folks that have prints and can help), then you MIGHT need to add a relay if you upgrade to the new pump. The life.....that is based on how you use it and how your abuse it. If you do a lot of beach camping and wash off a lot of sand....that will grind down the impeller. i find that one of the most damaging factors of the life or efficiency is the "Hair". I have put in a screen filter (drops right into the shower drain) to catch my falling folicles....as well as my grand daughter that sheds like crazy. Hair is the enemy of ALL macaerators....even the city sanitary systems. They are the 15 HP and higher models. SO.....If you eliminate the hair buildup around the shaft....that improves the life. The other secret is "scraping off the food". Food particles, if you have a clear coupling, come out at the end of the Gray tank being dumped. Really an issue. I bought a new pump with on Amazon. Eventually, you will have to purchase the Head Kit package. That is upwards of $75. I just bought a new pump. It is in. I rebuilt my old one. So, I can swap it out in 15 minutes. I DID put Hex Washer SS screws in the top of the "box", so I could easily get the top off and fix the pump or do whatever. If you have gone this long....you are lucky. Keep doing what you are doing. Hope this helps...

I would go with the Trojan T-105. The cost of such will be $100 - $120. They are robust. They will last for many years as long as they are not too BADLY abused. They outlast all the other brands. I had read good things about them here. But, the clincher was a tech from Lazy Days that relocated to NC. He worked for a buddy who was the GM at a HR and Chevy dealership. He said that if a customer brought in an Interstate House that was dead, most likely it had no electrolyte. He would advise them....these are not gonna come back. If they said....REFILL and RECHARGE.....only 25% of the time did that work. BUT, if they were Trojan's, then the success rate was around 75 - 80%. The Trojan T-105 is the most popular golf cart battery in the US. One OTHER THING....and this is just for general infomation. I am an advocate of well cell batteries. They suit my needs and provide me with over 7 years of life. Now having said that, one has to understand that Wet Cells need preventative maintenance. You must replenish the electrolyte. You must USE them.....and discharge them periodically to say 50%. IF you are like me, I rarely drain mine as I don't dry camp. I also have a BIRD (Bi-Directional) charging system. I store the Camelot with a 30 amp service. I have Pulse Technology defulfanation modules. SO, I try to give them TLC. If I do....they last. I understand WHY folks like AGM's. But, as a moderator, it is our responsibility to make sure that folks are knowledgeable enough and make good decisions. Too many times, when an inexperienced or perhaps an experienced MH owner, without a lot of electrical knowledge reads the posts....the posts are "AGM's are the MAGIC BULLET". They don't need electrolyte. They are maintenance free. That is probably true.....but with some qualfications. IF you abuse (overcharge or have an electrical charging issue, one event can be catastrophe. You can KILL them or destroy them. We see TOO MANY posts... Switched to AGM's. Bought a bank of them when the old wet cells went dead. They are now dead and the dealer says they are toast. Will have to replace. Why did I only get 2 years out of them....?? There could be many reasons. The folks that are very knowledgeable and like the AGM's are typically VERY ELECTRONICALLY SAVVY. They have the need for such. They have some nice monitoring equipment. They know what is going on at all times with their batteries. They may have special needs or they dry camp a lot. What we fear is that someone will just skim or make a decision without fully understanding the pros and cons of AGM or the reasons that you might need them. This has been banging around in my head for a few days....so here goes. If you understand HOW to maintain Wet Cells and how to get good life out of them....then some of us don't feel that we get any value or advantage from switching to AGM's. That is NOT knocking the AGM's...it is just our personal preference or how we think we need to spend our money. If you get 7 - 9 years out of a bank of Trojan T-105....then you would need to get maybe 12 or so years out of the lowest cost AGM's. Will that happen? I don't know....but from what i read, I am not going to make that investment. In summary.... If you have a rig that does NOT have BIRD or Bi-Directional Charging, I would be WARY. Now some folks will stick on a charger....and charge the Chassis or the House. BUT, if you put on a run of the mill charger, you stand, I believe, more of a change of messing up or overcharging the AGM's. Wet cells DO need water. SO, If I did not have a newer MH....then I would be wary. Now, if you have upgraded your Charger/Inverter or put in the Blue Seas ACR or a BIRD system and understand HOW to set up your Charger and also how to read the remote and also what is happening....then you may be alright. If you buy a MH and it comes with or the electrical system was DESIGNED for AGM's....then you will be OK. I have two personal incidents that make me wary. First....recently, my Magnum remote failed. It was quirky. I noticed little things. I trouble shot it. I talked to Magnum. OK....PROBABLY the remote. But when the remote failed....it told the Magnum charger that I have a 1500 Amp Hour bank. The Charger then did its best to work with a bank that was 3 TIMES what I actually had. I really worried about my Trojans. I tested them and they were not abused. BUT, if I had had AGM's and the Remote failed....then who knows. You need, if you convert to AGM's fully understand HOW to reconfigure and how to monitor your charger. So many folk, unfortunately, NEED a new bank and there is a reason, unbeknownst to them, that they have a charging or an electrical problem. They say....HEY....put in AGM, they are idiot proof. WRONG. AGM's required a higher level of understanding that does Wet Cell so you know WHAT to do and WHAT NOT to do. Second....and this is over a 20 year history. I have owned Vettes. They are not driven that often. GM had a bad run of Delco side post batteries. They leaked. GM gave me a new one and then it leaked. I have the scars on my garage floor to show that. I read a LOT about the Optima AGM. I read hot rod blogs and Vette forums and such. I even talked to the Senior Tech at the local Interstate distributor. He said....not for me. We (interstate) do not run AGM's in our trucks. We have had a failure rate (will not crank) that is higher than the conventional Wet Cells. Optima is not any better. I read all sort of bad reviews where the AGM's failed quicker than did the conventional batteries. My wife's 2014 Upper end Caddy has an AGM. If failed. I will probably put back in an AGM when it goes out again. The charging system is designed with variable charging and was meant for an AGM. My 2016 Vette has a wet cell....there was NO AGM Option. Most Vettes (C&) came with the Battery Monitor Option ($90 or so). This is just a Vette labeled low amperage maintainer. It may not even be a Defulfanator. It is private labeled and I can't find the info. SO....when the Vetty battery fails.....regular for me. I DO use a maintainer on BOTH vehicles when we take long road trips and leave the cars in the garage. These are low amperage units and they maintain the battery. It takes about 2 days for them to read "Full Charge". When I come home....the cars start and the Voltmeters read what they should. SO....if you decide to go AGM's, do some research. make sure that your MH's system is working properly. Make sure that you have a method of maintaining charge on your House (assuming AGM's) at all times. Make sure that you reconfigure the Charger remote and that it WILL work (or have settings) for an AGM. Then, if that is your choice and you understand and pay the additional money for the convenience....and hopefully, the additional life.....that is your call. Hope this helps.....

Chris, that is good to know. The Interstates that I have used, probably for the last 20 years, have been reliable for starting or Chassis. Many folks, whom I trust due to their knowledge, intellect and experience, have had great success with the Interstate Cranking batteries. It SOUNDS like Interstate has changed the coating process of the plates. I learned a lot from some members on and offline. When we fuss about batteries, we are typically talking about damage to the plates. The coating peels off (often from being dry or lack of an electrolyte). That coating collects on the bottom of the battery and builds enough to rattle around and SHORT out the battery. The shorted cell is easy to spot. If you have a 6 VDC battery and charge it, then measure the voltage. It will read aorund 4.5 or maybe 4.75 VDC. That means that only TWO of the cells are working. The other cell is shorted out. You will also see that when you test the Specific Gravity. I found this out when my original Interstates failed. I then, very stupidly, found that out when I let my golf cart sit for too long. Even a robust battery like the Trojan T-105 ain't THAT bullet proof. I replenished the electrolyte (it took a LOT). Charged and then drained and charged again. All was WELL....but then I drove it. OPPS.....the coating started peeling from the vibration. I lost two batteries....quickly. That is what is PROBABLY happening.... Thanks for the heads up.....