Tom Cherry

MOST recommend that you run the Genny for 3 or so hours daily. That will work if you leave the Samsung on the ENERGY REDUCTION setting and turn off the icemaker. That also assumes that you turn OFF (Unplug) your Home Entertainment items such as TV, Stereo, Cable, etc). Even in Standby, they DRAW power. I have two SIMPLE (not surge) power strips that I can turn off at each one. The other trick that Scotty talked about is converting the incandescents to LED. THEY are power hogs....as well as giving off heat. I eventually will probably convert the Fluorescents to LED, but for the interim, I use them sparingly. there is NOT a whole lot of difference in the lumens per watt for LED vs Fluorescent.....but incandescent pulls maybe 5 times the amps (or 5X the watts) for the same light output. As far as batteries goes, I am old school. I have not converted to AGM's, but many have and are very HAPPY. The one thing, PERSONAL, that I found out....the Inverter MUST be properly configured or you will toast the AGM's. The wet cell (I am a Trojan believer) will not be as prone to be fried or killed with a bad configuration or a faulty inverter. NOW.....most, and I was one of them, think that the Magnum is invincible. It AIN'T....but it is really robust. I started having an issue with the power blipping off and such when I switched from Line to Inverter. Kept experimenting and troubleshooting and had LONG conversations with Magnum. I had to replace the Inverter Controller. There was a glitch or broken electrical component in the Controller. You can ACTUALLY run the MH without a controller....you just loose all the functions such as monitoring and setting the AGS and fine tuning it. The Default Inverter "control" program is for wet and 450 amp hours and such (read the manual). My advice....make SURE that you fully understand HOW the inverter works and HOW to properly configure for an AGM. If this is all Greek to you and you don't know how to do that or can't understand when the Magnum Tech Support tells you, then I would advise NOT installing AGM's. AGM's have come a LONG way....and I assume that the newer inverters might be more "AGM Friendly". BUT, after I lost my controller and had to replace it, It would NOT have surprised me that a set of AGM's would have been ruined. I made sure that my new Trojans were NOT damaged and exercised them and got them up to 100% capacity. SO....just be aware that putting in a set of AGM's ain't like changing from bias beleted tires to Radial....and there is no need to worry or understand or make sure that your inverter is working.... Scotty's 11.9 VDC is about as LOW as is recommended. YES, the Trojan and other charts say that 12.0 VDC is 50% drained and we have been schooled (beaten to death) to know that one should NEVER, REPEATEDLY go below 50% SOC. BUT, that is measured at the Controller (Magnum in my case). SO, the actual voltage at the battery will be 0.1 - 0.15 VDC higher..... Therefore, 11.9 is typically WHERE an AGS should be set to get a little longer life or usage out of a charge. Hope this helps....

MIGHT want to see if it happens with the Genny. IF it works OK, then something MIGHT be wrong with the Shore that the Surge Protector is not picking up. Second is that you have a LOOSE connection on that leg....so here is what I would recommend..... You need, if you are qualified, to tighten the connections and also be aware that if you have the ORIGINAL IOTA 50R transfer switch that it is a fire hazard.... SO....this would my trouble shooting and also doing Preventative Maintenance... First "TRICK". Disconnect all the power (Shore) and also open (Trip) the Genny circuit breaker. That prevents 120 AC from being on the panel. Disconnect the Positive on the House and Chassis Battery. That prevents AC from coming through the inverter. SOME suggest putting a blanket over a solar panel. Let that "cook" for a few minutes. Pull off the brown cover on the AC Breaker panel .... the one in you photo. There is a Printed Circuit Board or a "module" on the RIGHT (Memory) side. There is a 3 or maybe 5 Amp fuse (automotive type) that powers the board. Pull it and also the two (maybe 3) removable pigtails. This disconnecting of the power to the Intellitec EMS is like a reset or a hard boot or cold boot on a computer. MIGHT or MIGHT NOT work....but it is simple....and if you have never tightened the electrical connections, this is the opportune time to do so and eliminate other other issues... During this time, do the Preventative maintenance on your electrical system. Tighten every terminal or screw inside the main panel that has a wire attached. This includes the GROUNDS and the Blacks (Reds also) and the White (Neutral). They vibrate and come loose and you will have a "hot spot" or a high resistance connection. Take off the cover of the Transfer Switch. IF you have the IOTA 50R, then it is recommended that you take immediate steps to REPLACE IT. The ESCO LPT50BRD is the recommended unit, per ESCO. Be aware that the terminal strips or the order of the wiring is NOT the same. The person (a residential electrician can do it easily) needs to MARK the LOAD (going to the Main Panel) the Line (Shore) and Genny leads. They are CLEARLY marked inside the old transfer switch. Just make SURE that they are put on the correct terminals on the new switch. MARK EACH INDIVIDUAL conductor. The installation manual with the LPT50BRD is pretty simple....just take pictures and use tape to MARK and LABEL each of the #6 conductors... one FINAL note.....there have been, and I had one as have had others, a BAD line cord connection.... Mine worked perfectly until it got barely bumped by a bay door opening. That bump would NOT have caused a bruise on even the most sensitive person. BUT, it killed a terminal. SOLUTION. Simple. Order a new one from Amazon (Camco 55255 and a tube of Dow Corning #4 Electrical Insulating compound). You install the new plug or end and then fill the entire cavity or the inside of the plug with the Dow compound and then put the cover on and wipe off the excess. This makes it as close to sealed or waterproof as the original molded one. OK....if you have tightened up everything and you do NOT have an IOTA switch and you did NOT see an evidence of overheating or arcing, then you might have some issues inside the panel or the unit (the Brown Intellitec panel). Back on POINT>.>>> Let the panel power down and sit for a while...maybe 30 minutes....probably longer than needed, but that lets all the capacitors and such discharge. Put the disconnected plugs or pigtails back on. Reinstall the fuse. Then reconnect the Positives on the battery and let the systems come up.....go slowly. Then try shore power and see if that corrects it. This totally shuts off the Intellitec EMS. Sometimes they EMS gets into a funk. If this does NOT fix it, then call M M Electronics in Ohio City, OH. They are a distributor for Intellitec. They are also the "Paid" Customer Tech Support" for Intellitec. Mark is one of them (Father and Son)....can't recall the other. They will assist you and help you. They are the best source for trouble shooting. They can also provide parts as well as custom wiring harnesses to install them. Intellitec changed the technology along the year. Sometimes the original panels have issues and you must install an upgraded panel. They can do this or they can ship one with instructions and tech support for a MH Tech. Good Luck...

STOP, ISOLATE and TEST again... First, look CAREFULLY at the circuit that was posted. The circuit uses a GROUNDED signal from each switch to work. Instead of running TWO Wires, when you press or do a momentary contact, then that is the SIGNAL. MAKE sure, and I am not talking down to you, that you understand HOW this whole circuit works before doing any more testing with aux hot leads and such...I would disconnect (mark and photograph the wires) the leads from the pump controller. Next or Number ONE, use a fused (10amp) lead and test the pump and controller by itself. Assuming you are using a MH Hot lead, then just hook this up and try it. You can use a jumper from Ground to toggle or Start/Sop the controller. you may have already done this and I did not pick that up. you will have to run a ground wire to your setup from the MH as well. See the circuit and duplicate..... NEXT. Disconnect the pump lead wire from the circuit AT THE PUMP. you may already have done that. Hook up the PUMP (that is the original wire to the controller) circuit to the MH's Pump Lead on your setup. Use a test light or a VOM and use your setup above to see if you are getting 12 VDC to the pump motor. This should ALSO make the Indicator lights work... Do NOT use the Switch circuit or wire from the MH. Just Ground the test lead and make sure that the Pump and Light circuit works. There MAY be a downstream fuse and if it is blown, this will tell you. NEXT...you can THEN hookup the "Switch" lead from the MH instead of the test or grounding jumper. TEST that with each switch. That should get you started and help you out...again, you may well be past this point, but this is the typical way to isolate and test and troubleshoot.

You need to look at the circuit. ODDS ARE....you have three (or maybe 4) pump switches. Each time you press one of the switches, assuming they are momentary contact, you cycle ON or OFF the Controller. The Controller provides Power to the Pump. https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rvpartscenter.com%2Fshop-by-categories%2Flist2%2Felectrical-12-volt%2Fac-to-dc-1%2Frv-power-converters-3%2Fintellitec-water-pump-controller-00-00145-100-detail&psig=AOvVaw0GszDUqPJvrbeNnm2_2DAp&ust=1615329323029000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAIQjRxqFwoTCIipg-bgoe8CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAD The above shows the schematic for the pump. The ON lights will be tied in parallel to the Pump. There will be one line that runs to all lights. You will have a ground for the other side. When you depress or push a Momentary Contact Switch....then the Controller switches functions. if ON...it goes OFF or Vice Versa. Then if the PUMP is ON....the indicator light wire has power and must have a ground. ODDS ARE...you have four wires on each location. Two for the PUMP ON/OFF and they go to the switch. TWO for the Indicator light....Signal (Pump is ON) and Ground. Find the MAIN fuse for the Pump Controller. THAT is what you have blown.... Fix it or find out WHERE there is a short or issue. DO NOT put a FUSE on the pump. AquaJet supplies one. IT IS NOT NEEDED and will fail at the worst time. the FUSED Supply to the Pump Controller protects the circuit. GOOD LUCK... You have an incoming line to the

MY opinion, based on having this same discussion with a Licensed NC Electrical (among other things) is this.. IT DEPENDS... Some Code "inspectors" such as building inspectors will let it slide or NOT call it out. OTHERS WILL. The correct way is to MARK THE Receptacle. NOW, again, local codes and ordinances and also "interpretations" prevail. A 50 RV box comes with the following receptacle....should you ever have to replace just the receptacle. Leviton 279-S00 50 Amp, 125/250V, Nema 14-50R, 3P, 4W That means or is interpreted as having all the necessary UPSTREAM components and being connected as a 50 AMP service. IF you DOWNSIZE the service...as in going to 30 Amps, then technically, you need to change out the receptacle to a 30R as well. SOME would even say....as perhaps overkill, PULL THE WIRE. There have been occassions, my friend says, where you had to abandon the service. BUT, OTHER inspectors will allow you to label the Receptacle as being DOWNSIZED. A printed or Dymo Label that says 30 AMP SERVICE or DOWN RATED TO 30 Amps is usually the way. That way, an "unknowing" user with an appliance that requires 50 Amps will NOT use it. The left one is a NEMA 14 - 30R and the one on the right is a NEMA 14 - 50R. SO, when you plug in your device, the line cord MUST be the same as the receptacle and when you use a NEMA 15 - 50R, you EXPECT 50 amps. From a safety standpoint, downrating is OK... Therein lies the issue. If a Home Inspector is really picky, he would check the main panel. When he saw the 30 Amp (or it could be a 40 as that is what the EV folks are using...from what I understand...as they need 32 Amps continuous for a Tesla), he would expect to see a 30R Receptacle. WRONG....so he makes a comment on the report about a qualified electrician checking and verifying. I had a 30 Amp single (120, not 240 VAC) RV plug for my Winnie. I ran #10 Wire. I then installed a 50 using #6. I abandoned the 30 box and put in a 20 Amp GFCI outside. My Buddy said you are OK, unless some Inspector happens to pull and check. He said to pull the breaker and put in a 20 amp, which I did. NOW, the wire size is one size TOO Big....but typically, no one will catch or complain. BUT, if you have a 50R receptacle and it is rated for 50 (#6 Wire) and properly installed, but you downrate it to 30, then I would put a 30 -R outside. I would make up a 30 to 50 Cheater (a rarity as it would be 4 wire) from a dryer cord and put a 50-R on the end and go from there. Sounds crazy...but who said an inspector or a home inspector ever operated on logic. From a practical standpoint....the downrated 30 will work...and you are SAFE. But from a code standpoint, the 50R is SUPPOSED to have a 50 Amp upstream... Hope this helps....again, this is what I was told and also read and, in a perverted way, makes sense for the code. ANYTIME you modify a circuit, you are SUPPOSED to mark it... Example, in the OLD Days, you could have an outlet in the garage that was at normal height and mark as a DEDICATED CIRCUIT. I changed out an outlet in my daughter's garage. I put in a standard breaker (20 amp) instead of the GFCI. I found the FIRST outlet. I put in a DUAL Gang or TWO receptacles. I wired ONE straight....so it was NOT GFCI rated. Then I ran the feed to the GFCI next to it. I had to LABEL that single Outlet as NON GFCI PROTECTED. I THINK that there was that label in the box. Later on, my buddy told me....NEW CODE...for DEDICATED (Freezer/Refrigerator) calls for a SINGLE (not a Duplex) Outlet ONLY....and later it was that any NON GFCI Outlet in a garage (like for a freezer) had to be a SINGLE and had to be at least 6 feet off the floor. If you have EVER traced circuits in a garage....they are crazy. IF the garage door opener is the ONLY line, then the feed will go to the overhead (ceiling) and THEN to a wall (lower) location and the GFCI will be there. BUT, if the Garage door comes from say a Lighting circuit, then the lights do NOT require a GFCI so all the lights and the garage door opener are on a standard breaker....and if they run it down...then they pop in a GFCI there.

I posted, I think, a Whirlpool set of instructions for how a dryer (new one) can be configured for different outlets. To be FULLY NEC Complaint, You must configure the dryer to work with the receptacle. Assuming that all know that our motor homes actually do have, potentially, 240 VAC incoming and that unless one has a special appliance, which some do, I believe, we only use the 120 circuits....then this is how a conventional dryer three wire dryer circuit can be configured to work. https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORKS-Dryer-Adapter-3-Prong-30-Amp-Dryer-Plug-to-4-Prong-Dryer-Female-Connector-Adapter-AD10301430/310466457 The main panel in the house must be configured as follows... L1 or Black to a double Pole 220 V 30 amp breaker. L2 or Red to the other side. That puts L1 and L2 out of "Phase". That means that the Neutral will not be carrying TWICE or 2 X the load. If you do not understand that, then google. Those of us that only have 120 VAC Onan 8KW genny must be careful NOT to overload as we only have a single Neutral. Therefore, when we load up each side, L1 and L2, we are actually loading up the Neutral to 70 Amps (35 Amp on each L1 and L2). If you were a member of the original group, you might have read that the only failure of a contactor in an HW50C Progressive ever reported to Tommy Fanelli was when someone put the unit on the downstream side of the ATS. The contactor is rated for 60 Amps on each pole (L1, L2 and Neutral). When the individual loaded up the Genny, there was 75 amps on the neutral and that fried the contactor. If you look at the Home Depot unit and there are several articles written by folks with both electrical and code knowledge, the dryer wiring has to have the White Neutral connected to the Neutral Buss in the main panel. Then the Green wire in the picture is connected to the Ground of a normal 120 Circuit. That complies with code...as subtle as the nuance is. MOST of the 3 to 4 wire conversions that folks do when they get a new dryer is just install a 4 wire receptacle and then jumper the Ground to the Neutral. I THINK that the code changed circa 1995 or so. In this particular case, the OP's adapter probably has that done. This topic has been going on for so long that I cannot remember. THe OP's rig is has only 2 AC units. What he is doing, in effect, is providing a Circuit Breaker protected 30 Amp service to his MH when typically, that was intended for 50 amps. Therefore, if he uses all of his appliances, then he may overload or "trip" the dryer circuit breaker. SInce he has removed the original Gas/Electric refrigerator, he may have a little more "latitude". IDEALLY and from a CODE standpoint, he needs a fully code compliant 50 amp breaker and receptacle. If he uses the Home Depot adapter and his 50 amp service, then he needs to be aware that it is ONLY for temporary service to provide power while loading and unloading and that he only has 30 amps of power for Line 1 and Line 2. He can NOT fully load either up to the theoretical 50 amp service. He should NOT plug in any high draw appliances such as a space heater. He can run his AC's as one is on L1 and the other is on L2, He should NOT run his Water Heater on ELectric nor should he use his Microwave. He does NOT have, as many might not be aware of, the Intellitec EMS or Load Shedding unit. BUT, that unit, since it measures L1 to L2 would "THINK" that there was a FULL 50 Amp service and it would NOT do the proper load shedding. When you use a 30 amp, single "phase" (which is a misnomer", the Intellitec THINKS that you only have a FULL 30 amp service on ONE side... In effect, with his adapter or the Home Depot kit, you actually have 30 amps on each leg. That is my take on it...

No BRAINER....for me. Samsung RF 17 or whatever the number is now. Did that several years ago. Also have talked or emailed a lot of Camelot owners. Hints...and THIS might not work for you... MUST insulated the top and bottom access covers (assuming you do NOT have top vent). You need to insulate the side holes in the frame. I posted pictures Remove ALL the insulation on the sides. You need PURE air circulation. The insulation was to keep the heat from the burner/heater from coming in. Do NOT pay good money for a "custom" surround. It fits FINE. If you have a vinyl or wooden surround, you will have heating issues. You need the gaps on each side and top and bottom to allow for cooling and air circulation. There are a VARIETY of ways to hold it in place. THIS is what I had to do.. When they pull the old refer out, you WILL lose the bottom drawer. DON'T Sweat it. It was, for us, useless and we forgot what was there. Have them remove the shelf in the back. That is where the water line and gas line is. IF you leave it in, you will need to have them cut several 2 or 3" holes in it (Hole saw). You need to let the AC compressor breath. Mine was not removed, so I used a drill and cut or bored the holes. I used some SS plates and 3M VHB (Clear) Tape. Amazon has that in various widths and lengths. Here is the drill. Take a piece of paper. Draw a line on the 11" side 3/4"from the edge. Fold that strip up. That is the shape and approx size of each plate. You will need TWO. Chris Throgmartin here has a fabricator that does his SS plates. He might help you. Otherwise find a piece of SS and get a sheet metal (HVAC) shop to make a bend for you. These two plates will be double stick adhesive taped to the TOP of the Refigerator....AFTER it is in place. Alcohol preps are needed. DO NOT DRILL OR PUT SCREWS INTO THE SAMSUNG. The Refer needs to be IN PLACE and FLUSH with cabinet with the SLIDE extended. Here are the steps. Measure back about a FOOT from the front of the cabinet. Screw or GLUE (Both) a short piece of wood think a 2" X 3/4" firring strip about a foot long.. Can be shorter. Run the FIrring STRIP DOWN so that the center of it will be approximately at the TOP of the Refrigerator. Try to get them exactly the same depth from the front. NOT fussy...but easier. Cut TWO pieces of 5/4 Decking from treated deck board. That or OAK will work. You will need TWO strips. Measure the width of the refrigerator and add an inch. Then CUT the piece in half. That piece needs to be about 3" WIDE.... You NOW have your upper braces. Drill 3 holes (maybe 3/16"dia) in each of the turned up edges of the SS plate. You will need 6 deck screws...maybe 2" long (maybe washers) to attach the wood. WITH the Refer in PLACE... Put a wooden brace on TOP of the Refer. It needs to be on the BACK SIDE of the firrring STRIP. NOW... Use a piece of duct tape or such to HOLD IT DOWN. Then cover the bottom of the plate (the 10" side) with 3M tape. Clean the surface BEHIND the brace. You will THEN Attach of GLUE down the plate on one side. When you drive THREE screws into the wood (through the plate's holes), you have nailed DOWN the refer on one side. It will NOT move FORWARD or SIDEWAYS. Repeat on the OTHER side. The piece of paper example is overkill. A piece of 6" wide plate about 8" long with a turned up 3/4" edge will work. The 3/4" TURNED UP EDGE is the key. You can pull out the screws. You can remove the wooden brace. You can SLIDE OUT the refer for repairs as the 3/4" edge will NOT hit the upper wood. 5/8 to 1/2 MIGH work. You want to be able to SCREW the brace in so that it keeps the refer from moving forward and side to side.... NOW....You can add side blocks on the rear and screw down a piece of 2X4 (or two) in the rear. That will keep it from moving back. The side spacers are easy. Use a slightly wedge shaped block on each end and screw to the side walls. That is IT. This design evolved from how some other folks mounted...and then I figured out the geometry and the logic for the top. There SHOULD be a sheet metal baffle inside the TOP opening. That is easily removable. The Tech worked from there. The shop is NOW using this method for all installs... Hope this helps....

At the risk of getting bombarded....using a THREE wire 240 VAC Dryer Receptacle, from a practical standpoint WILL WORK. If you purchase a NEW dryer, it will, typically if if has a line cord set, come with a 4 wire connection. Back to NEC Basics. The MAIN panel inside the home or the Service Panel (where the breakers are located) has or SHOULD have a BONDED GROUND TO NEUTRAL. That is the ONLY location WHERE that is required. If you have a THREE wire Dryer Plug, the third wire is GROUND. GOD FORBID that anyone would also tell you that there is supposed to be ZERO resistance between GROUND and NEUTRAL on a branch circuit. Electricians and also us "tinkerers" have been using a jumper between the GROUND and the Neutral on dryer circuits for years. As LONG as the main panel has a bonded Ground to Neutral, then the dryer will work the same... If you check the NEC, I think it was 1999 when the FOUR wire service was required. NEW Construction requires a 4 wire service. Replacement of an EXISTING CIRCUIT does not. Common sense says if the wire is bad and you have to pull a NEW service....make it 4. BUT, if you have an existing THREE wire circuit, then the approved method is to do the following. L1 and L2 are to go to their respective HOT locations on the Breaker. The Neutral may or may NOT be connected to Neutral in the Main Panel. The main panel MUST have a bonded or at least a number 4 jumper between Ground and Neutral (Generically speaking). Remove the THIRD WIRE....if it is connected to the GROUND BUSS and attach to NEUTRAL. If there is 110 Circuit that has a GROUND wire, then you CAN tap into THAT wire and run a separate ground to the new 4 wire receptacle. IF NOT....then you jumper the receptacle so that Neutral and Ground are connected. YES, that is OK as long as a LOCAL CODE does not prohibit the bonding of Neutral to Ground. Here is what Maytag advises when a new dryer is installed and the service may NOT be 4 wire... -Cycle Electric Dryer is manufactured ready to install with a 3-wire electrical supply connection. The neutral ground wire is permanently connected to the neutral conductor (white wire) within the dryer. If the dryer is installed with a 4-wire electrical supply connection, the neutral ground wire must be removed from the external ground connector screw (green screw), and secured under the neutral terminal (center or white wire) of the terminal block. When the neutral ground wire is secured under the neutral terminal (center or white wire) of the terminal block, the dryer cabinet is isolated from the neutral conductor. ■ A 4-wire power supply connection must be used when the dryer is installed in a location where grounding through the neutral conductor is prohibited. Grounding through the neutral is prohibited for (1) new branch-circuit installations, (2) mobile homes, (3) recreational vehicles, and (4) areas where local codes prohibit grounding through the neutral conductors. NEC 250.32(B)(1) The applicable NEC section is 250.32(B)(1), which reads as follows ("equipment grounding conductor" = "ground" and "grounded conductor" = "neutral" for us, and exception 2 is irrelevant for this): The current state of this section was reached in the 2008 NEC, which forbade new construction from using the feeder neutral to provide ground for the fed system. (Your choices now are to provide a separate ground wire, which is what is normally done, or use a distribution transformer to create a separately derived system for the fed building, which has its own N-G bond.) Many of the installations that fall under the current exception were installed prior to the 1999 NEC, which is the first edition that forbade parallel current paths between the structures involved.

James, This post has morphed into a speculative trouble shooting topic and you need to assist and be more forthcoming with information. Based on all the posts, from a " speculative" point of view, here is some information and also, from a moderator, a request. First... When you have a problem please keep checking back and answer the email alerts that you get and reply. Folks want to help you, but when there is no info...then the posts get out of control. Thanks for understanding that. Second. IMPORTANT. I pulled your owner's manual (download) from the HR site. You potentially have a FIRE HAZARD. If you locate the ATS (Auto Transfer Switch) which is called out and there is a picture of in the Electrical - House section of the manual, your unit ORIGINALLY has the Iota 50R ATS. That unit was recalled. BUT, since Monaco was bankrupt and Navistar owned them, the DOT responsibility to recall and replace was not required. If you have the IOTA or I-50R, that ATS needs to be replaced immediatly. The suggested replacement is an ESCO LPT50BRD. The new ATS is in the $200 range and should be replaced by a competent Electrician. NOTE, this is a 120 Vac job, therefore any qualified electrician that does work on a residential or commercial unit can replace it. It does NOT required any specific knowledge of a MOTORHOME. This is important.... Third. I have the same Samsung. The Samsung unit is a little tricky or it was for me. Unplug the Samsung for about 15 minutes. Then, use a 120 VAC grounded extension cord from any source in your house and plug it back in. Read (download if you don't have it) the owner's manual. TYPICALLY, when you disconnect, that resets most of the functions. The Ice ON/OFF does not, memory, reset. Make sure that the indicators and the settings and such are correct or what is specified in the Owner's Manual. Here is a copy and paste. IF you see the numbers or the set points of -2 and 36, then things should WORK. Read on... FROM the Owner's manual... COOLING OFF MODE - "OF & OF" Will be DISPLAYED.....NOT the -2 and 36 when in normal operation. This function is for store display refrigerators. It is not for customer use. In Cooling Off Mode, the refrigerator works but doesn’t make cool air. To cancel this mode, press the Power Freeze and Freezer buttons at the same time for 3 seconds until a “Ding-dong” sound is heard. The unit will now cool. Fourth. I had an issue with my Samsung. IF the previous owner did NOT block and insulate the lower cover, then the unit will not properly work or cool when the outside temperatures are under 35 degrees or so. In addition, the Upper Vent (probably on the roof based on the age of your unit) should have had the top cover removed and the flue or duct insulated as well. SOME individuals or dealers were not aware of this. I had a NEW unit put in and spent a few days in the dealer's lot and it was erratic. Once I got home, and insulated the bottom cover and the top (mine has a side cover and not a top vent), it has worked flawlessly. I had a Samsung tech come out and he said..."GOT TOO COLD....will not work under 35. You have FIXED it..." After rereading your posts, odds are...unless somehow the Samsung Fifth...You need to read the posts about the dryer cord and such. Folks have asked you specific questions. Please respond to them. It would be helpful to have a picture of your "Dryer" outlet that you plugged into. Did you use an adapter or how did you get them connected..? Please post pictures and a description as soon as convenient so folks can assist. You REALLY need to understand, and perhaps you do but did not post, whether you put 220 VAC into the normal L1 and/or L2 lines. if you did, then there would have been other issues with the HVAC and microwave and TV and such. IF, and I hope they do, all the OTHER appliances work OK and there was no "Smoke", odds are....you have a defective component in the Samsung... Thanks for your prompt attention to this....

Richard is correct. Post is long on "Theory" and SHORT on "Facts". However, there is one thing that we can, safely I hope, assume... The HR 2004 Endeavor Owner's Manual (from the HR site) does not list a standard or option Intellitect EMS system. SO, unless there is an aftermarket system, such as a Progressive Industries unit, the Coach has NOTHING to indicate what is going on or the "situation" in the electrical system.

Bob, Thanks for posting this. Please post a link to the obituary and such. Please also tell Peggy that Bill and she are in our prayers and we will remember him. Tom

Did you read the second review. I don't know the skill set of the individual and it is difficult to follow the logic of a "channel". I would be a little dubious... Progressive Industries was sold and Tommy Fannelli, founder and original owner, is not there and the policies have changed. I DO trust their HW50C....as I KNOW it works. Just a comment....

I found that in a City Park in Florida. Had a 50 Amp receptacle. Also a 30 and a 50 Amp Breaker. HMMMM....Checked them out. All the "premium" sites with 50A were FAKE 50's. So much for electrical inspections and sign off's. The Intellitec EMS did not show 50...only clue. Had to run AquaHot for heat as only one HP would run. If you purchase additional leads for your meter that are thin and longer, then you can test the outlet. Otherwise, you gotta cheat and then pull out the Shore plug and test the pins... There are more of them out there than you think...

Steve, I will OFFER another theory....and some, unsolicited, advice. FIRST....maybe the Neutral wire(s) in the pedestal panel were "loose" or corroded....and just the vibration of tripping and turning back on the CB did the trick. Stranger things have happened. SECOND...and this happened to me... You have a LOOSE Neutral in your SHORE Plug. I barely bumped the back of the shore plug with a cargo door one time. NOT a wind black or such...just opened the door and there was not enough clearance and the edge of the bay door bumped (would not have caused a bruise on my hand or arm) the plug. BINGO...Open Neutral. I trouble shot it and called Tommy Fanelli, the owner and founder of Progressive, personally, as I had his cell phone. He walked me through it. I tried it on the 30 dog bone....still an open neutral. Got home....pulled the Engine Air Intake hose out so I could get to the terminal box. ALL TIGHT. Before I started to troubleshoot the Shore Wire Reel (power), I cut off the plug and stole one from my Emergency Generator Connector....which was a 50Amp. BINGO....FIXED IT. I am STILL using that plug and that was circa 2014. I DO carry a NEW Camco 50 A Male in case I have an issue. My advice.... Be a big spender and order a NEW 50A Camco from Amazon. They are actually different now as the body is a bit longer. In Canada, I had to do a little Swiss Army knife work on a box (the CG owner did not see me) so that the older style would fit. The Progressive WORKS....TRUST IT... You can also verify with a VOM the Open Neutral. It saved my fanny...

Glad it is fixed and did not require any "monkey business" regarding the egress via a confined opening....

Folks, Thanks for all your help JJ is LOCKED, for some reason and I will ask Scotty to assist later on, and can NOT get into Monacoers. Therefore, any pertinent or timely advice or info should be given via the phone number I texted the video to JJ earlier. Thanks for all your help today

I just got this email. Can someone that understands how to work the doors and get out of the "Locked In" situation please call JJ. Phone is 404-374-1700 Thanks Good-morning Tom and Happy New Year. Hope 2021 is a better year for us all. Can you please send me your info on adjusting the front door? Also, do you have any suggestions on how to open the door when it is closed and you’re inside and even banging on the frame doesn’t open it? I am guessing that I waited too long to adjust it as I am now locked in. Could be worse, I could be locked out. I have tried adjusting the torque by changing the air levelers. Any suggestions? I tried getting on Monacoers but I got locked out and don’t want to spend all my time with no results. I do have a repair man on his way sometime today to change out my Omega slide awning spring and I’m hoping he’ll be able to help but having the info up front could be a big help. Thanks, JJ Tucker 03 Camelot Air levelers only 404-374-1700 I will remove or revise this and take out his phone afterwards.

The Henderson "Trim kit" is what was either the Chicken or the Egg for the Blue Ox TruCenter. Blue Ox hired the Steering Stabilizer Guru from one of the two players....Super Steer or Safety-T-Steer and then the engineers reverse engineered and Blue Ox came out with their version. I have had mine since 2010 and love it. The addition of the Watts Link (see other posts) made it MORE sensitive or more effective. You could literally tell the difference. David Pratt, when he put on a test Watts that Van made said the same thing.

Vise Grips are the way to go. Be a BIG spender. Order the Needle Nose design from Amazon (get the REAL Vise Grips of the Crescent Apex Tools brands). That leaves a smaller burr on the top and the handles are usually shorter. The Torque is LOW. There will be a metal ferrell or sleve in the space between the upper and lower bushing. You just keep torquing until you can't torque anymore. MOST people will also pop for a 19 (or maybe 18mm) or a 3/4" ratcheting wrench. Purchase the kind that you flip over to reverse. The ones with the flip switch are usually longer. The shorter, the better as there will be limited working room. With the right size wrench, you typically work via feel. These are the tricks that the Source Engineering installer told me that he uses and he does about 3 or so sets a day, so he probably knows how to do it. I would also say that if I was going to do it again, that I would probably opt for a SMIDGE (not a LOT) of Loctite GREEN (NOT RED or BLUE). That will be enough to hold them. ESPECIALLY the fronts. My Fronts loosened up in about 30K and needed to be retightened. The Green is what you can also use on the terminals of the ATS and a Surge Suppressor, if you have one.

As the owner of a 2009 Monaco that went a bit "credit card" wild before I fully understood...or at least have a better concept...here goes My OEM Monroe's were totally gone at 20K. Porposing is one thing....riding a bucking bronco or being on a shrimp boat with 25 ft. swells is another. My shocks were making my wife sick and my grandkids asking me to turn around and go over that section of the bridge again. The shocks were what Van would call...NO SHOCKS. You could easily take your hands and compress and extend them without being a Charles Atlas. Thus, there MIGHT have been a bit of dampening...but none to speak of. The ride was horrible, by our standards...and it is the OWNER's and probably the Queen's opinions, that count. Thus OFF with the OLD...on with the new. I spent a lot of money and ordered the HD Source up front and the Standard Source in the rear. I also put on the front and rear Source (made by Roadmaster) sway bars. The shocks and the sway bars made a drastic improvement. NOW, how did I judge that....not from what I spent, but from a real test. My wife is not an avid reader, but does read maybe an hour or so a day. From day one, when we purchased the Camelot NEW, she could not read without getting a bit "queasy". Now, I will point out that she may have had a long bout with Land Sickness. That is, according to what we read, the result of a motion induced queasiness. We toured Alaska on a cruise line and even in the calm waters there, she was queasy. SO...she could not read while riding without feeling nauseasous. After I put on the various components....which I did 75% of myself, so I do I have little "Under the Belly" experience, she challenged me...."What did we get with all this outlay or $$$?". Took her for a 50 mile ride on some rural county and state road and an interstate and she said. OMG. This is great. It feels so much more solid. OK...The Queen is HAPPY....so the rest of the Kingdom celbrates. NOW, that was in Summer of 2012. We took a trip down to LA via the Natchez Trace. When we left Raleigh, she idly picked up a book. She had finished it by the time we hit Nashville. I casually asked...Thought you could not read for more than 30 minutes without getting seasick? OMG, you're RIGHT (a rarely spoken phrase). This is great. SO, all the professional drivers and all the test reports and all the measured data and opinions can be taken into account. BUT, for me...and that is what is important, the Source Components did their job. Ride and handling (sway bars) improved. Fast forward to May 18, 2018, I ventured down to Van's remote and fairly undisclosed location and he supervised me installing Mike Hughes' Watts Link Kit. An INSTANT SUCCESS. The handling improved markedly. NOW, that, as many here have attested to, is one of the BEST or perhaps FIRST things to do. It has NOTHING to do with SHOCKS.. However, I will make a comment based on experience and opinion. The Heavy Front Source Shocks did have some impact on the handling. I know that as I installed the components in three different sessions. The Front Shocks were the second phase as the Front Sway Bar had to be replaced with a different size. I test drove the Camelot over my test track and each phase (rear shocks and sway bar) and then Front Shocks improved the FEEL of the handling and the ride. The final phase of the Front Sway bar was about as good as I thought it could get, THEN the Watts link and Van tweaking the TRW gearbox showed me the REAL WAY HOME. I am NOT disagreeing with Van's post. Shocks are dampening devices. The owner's tastes and ride preferences dictate what he and his crew needs. I like a tighter ride without all the bucking and porposing. Had I to do it over again, I would probably go with the Source regular shocks. The are the same Bilsteins that are offered as STOCK, but with different valving. They are guaranteed, by Source, for the LIFE of the MH.. I had one leak. Instant replacement. The Stock Bilsteins require that you remove the shock and ship back. Sometimes a Dealer or Distributor will have one in stock and Bilstein will OK replacing it. The Former Shock Guru that developed the Bilstein Shocks and worked for them said that if he owned a Monaco Roadmaster Chassis, he would run the Source as he participated in the development and the valving of the Source Shocks. Koni's have a great reputation. At least ONE of Van's HOF posters ran them and loved them on his Roadmaster. Koni will also ship you a shock on a CC and you can replace and ship back the old one, assuming it is defective. As to the original POST....the 42 Ft Camelot with the Tandem rear axle will handle or perform better than my single rear axle. This is a fact and has been verified by folks that have driven and owned 6 vs 8 wheelers. The rear's are typically more of an afterthought. Tire Pressure (know your load weight) does more for ride comfort in the rear than anything else. The Camelot has one bad quirk. The placement of the fuel tank and fresh tank requires that you run almost 95% or around 110 PSI in the front. THAT is what impacts the need for a dampening shock. The more conventional MH's that will allow you to run 80% or so lightly loaded make a big difference in what type of ride or shock you need....as well as your crew's needs. SO....my comment for the OP. If the Worn Out Monroe's didn't bother you, then go back with them. They will last another 30K. You will be out about 1/3 or what you will spend on the Koni's or the Bilsteins. Van and others are advocates of softer shocks that do not have the lifetime or prolonged useful life. They do the labor themselves, so there is no "installation" cost. However, if you pay someone to install, then it might be a better economic decision to go with a better grade of shocks. I personally would use the Source Shocks, but that will be an adder that needs to be considered. The Koni, I feel, would be the second choice and the stock Bilsteins as the final one. If the Bilteins were significantly cheaper than the Koni, I might run them on the rear and put the Source or the Koni on the front for an improved dampening. My comments...based on both my Credit Card and Slithering experience. If I could recoup even half of the cost of the Source HD's, I would probably go back with the standard Source, but the "stiffness" since I typically don't go to AL or off roading is not something that I plan to investigate.

Van raises a good question. Need to determine if you have the ECM or the Mechanical. My best guess would be, if you have the ECM, a bad connection. However, if it started up and ran, then that could be a bugger to find. If there is a faulty connection, just barely touching, and then it starts, but when you drive, it vibrates, that would be the issue. Then, as the engine developed more heat, the connection got hotter and the faulty connection was making enough contact to run. My advice would be to take it to a Cummins shop and have them run the codes. If it shut down, it DID throw a communication or a failure code. This "Hunt and Peck" by techs without any in-field diagnostics sometimes results in parts being replaced that are not the real issues. Know you are in Ft. Meyers, but I can tell you that the Cummin's dealer in Orlando has some great troubleshooting techs. They replaced a fried ECM in a 2008 Navigator. No small task as Monaco had programmed the ECM to communicate and control the Tranny, Exhaust Brake, Cruise, etc. Frank McElroy found a file with a 2008 Navigator program and emailed it to me. I worked with the Tech as well as Frank talking to him and he got my friend's MH running and all the functions and programming codes and such work perfectly. That is no small task, so I would trust them to analyze. If you plan to drive it much, I would let them look at it and read the codes and then figure out what the issues were.

Great. You actually can pull that out. Serves no purpose. It is a Solenoid (Commonly called a contactor or a relay also). Chuck made a good point based on the age of your Motor Home. I would locate the 115 VAC Automatic Transfer Switch Has three large pieces of plastic or flexible conduit or maybe large pieces of Romex. Get the Name and the Model number. Google that or post it here. If it is any other brand that an ESCO, I would be dubious and then find out the history. Good Luck.

Nothing other that information. Many folks do NOT understand that the ATS that Monaco used for many years were recalled or were problems. YES...nothing to do with Alternator, but if one person reads and find out and checks and then saves themselves a major problem...

It may have the name TODD or it may have IOTA 50R. Either one is a fire hazard and should be immediately, as Chuck posted, removed. The ESCO LPT50BRD is the most commonly used one.

Richard is spot ON. You can either move BOTH the cables to ONE Terminal (clean all the connections) OR purchase a NAPA P/N 781144. This is a SHORT jumper. You do NOT want a LONG ONE. That should restore the power. As most have said, the Salesman's Switch was a Brainstorm that was only put there for DEALERS and drives owners CRAZY. It was there so that a dealer could run around at the end of the day and kill all the lights in the MH and turn them back on in the AM. IT IS A PITA AND WILL FAIL. Why spend MONEY to replace a component that MOST never, EVER use. My DW would accidentally trip it and I finally just pulled it out.