Tom Cherry

LOTS of things STILL to be checked....but take them one at at time... TOTALLY unload the MH. Then set the pressures about 8 PSI lower than the plate on the driver's door. NEXT.....VERY IMPORATNT....what is the Tag AXLE pressure. IF it is jacked up then it does funky things to the steering and handling....as well as the tire wear. I think it should be in the 60 PSI range UNLOADED....but I am NOT a Tag Axle person. DRIVE IT after you do that. If it does NOT pull....then you might just be a victim of not being properly set up. As the guys have pointed out....proper weight distribution is IMPERATIVE...and Folks have have crazy issues, including blowouts, when the Tag pressure was set way too high. HYDRAULIC. YES to the above....but bear in mind. You PROBABLY have the Texaco Rando OIL (not ATF). That DOES need to be maintained. You have a Nelson 3 filter system. If you have the manual, there is an excellent writeup. However, if you download the 2002 and 2004 manuals you can also get the info. Monaco does not have your 2003 manual online. BUT....if your cooling is fine, then I sort of rule out the hydraulic system. Your radiator fans are driven off the same system. Therefore, any issues with pressure would result in cooling issues. BUT....you also need to KNOW what type of fluid you have. If you have a Straw colored fluid (let it drip on a piece or paper), you do NEED to replace the spin on filter and the 3 Nelson filters inside the reservoir. IF you have a Redish colored fluid, it is ATF. TRW recommends that you switch or replenish that with the Transynd Allison fluid. That is NOW their requirement for long range or extended warranty. Mobil makes an equivalent...Delvac Synthetic that is an excellent substitute. I would NOT use any other synthetic... I ALSO wonder about the gear Box. IF you have, hopefully, the TRW, then it has a centering or play adjustment. THAT could be the issue and any good front end shop should be able to adjust this. Good Luck....let us know and keep us informed. That is how we all learn

No doubt. David Pratt and I had them before we added a front Watts Link. The Tru Center would not do all that it was "touted" to do....but there was a difference when installed. Then I added a front Source Engineering Sway bar and some beefy shocks. The Tru Center actually worked better and the need to adjust it went down. You STILL have to, in some windy conditions or on a sloped highway, steer off center a smidge and then center. Overcompensate....to get the desired results. BUT, when we added the Watts link, it was really impressive. Dave and I both said we rarely used the centering. When I added the stabilizer I talked to Barry (Josams) and Brett Howard (former manager of the FL-Wildwood) Monaco Warranty center. Barry did not like the Tru Center....and he said it was because his guys were not electricians and he like the other brand... Safe-T or whatever. Brett said that he knew the Blue Ox Tru Center Guru and that he felt it was superior as you NEEDED to be able to trim of adjust any stabilizer. The old one that folks raved about had a tracking adjustment. Brett said he had driven a LOT of Monaco's and he would put on the Tru Center....so I did. I will check it....thanks....

Thanks....gonna be checked also....I had mine loctited on....but you never can tell. Better safe than sorry...

Great POINTS. My steering damper is a Blue Ox TruCenter. Did a little digging....it has been discontinued. The Tru Center has a "button" that you hold in, when going straight...for a few second. There is a solenoid that "CENTERS" the wheel. SO, look for what type it is, IF you have one. Safe-T-Plus also makes one and there is a front end shop in Oregon (Hendersons?) that makes a sells a "Trimming" or solenoid adjustment for it... The OTHER type (no adjustment or buttons) have to be carefully setup to keep the wheels going straight. A LOOSE clamp or improper mounting could also react exactly as Ray and Van pointed out. Since we don't have a feel for HOW BAD it is pulling, then you are going to have to play it by ear....but beware of any shop that starts spouting technical jargon and costs in the thousands. The Roadmaster chassis front end is a BEAST and you would really have to do something horrible to damage it....but the pulling can be many things....like swapping a tire....OR it could be something is loose and any good, reputable shop can repair. BTW....I Noticed that the 2002 and 2004 Owners Manuals have the front end specs....WONDERFUL... Good luck....keep us informed....we all learn...

What each of us perceives as safe versus questionable is a gut feel. IF the MH is no worse than what he drove (sounded like several hours), then HE has to decide....so I won't comment on that. BUT>>>>> IF he feels comfortable doing the flushing and draining, then my recommendation comes DIRECTLY from the Service and Tech Support at TRW. FIRST....he needs to identify WHAT type of fluid he has. DO NOT DEPEND on the manuals. Take a sample (use a screwdriver or a clean cloth). Drip or squeeze on a piece of white paper. IF the fluid is STRAW COLORED or YELLOWISH, then he had a "we run out of ATF" MH when it came down the line. ODDS are that he has Hydraulic Fluid...as Monaco switched to ATF, I think, a little later...but you NEVER KNOW....someone could have switched also. IF the fluid is REDISH....BINGO....ATF. NOW why... Long story....short version. SOME of the Hydraulic Fluids would get moisture or would FREEZE.. We have had folks that had that happen and it is NOT a pretty site. Typically, they will lose or burst a section of the "radiator" that cools the hydraulic....PAIN AND AGONY ON ME... OK...IF, HOPEFULLY, it is ATF, then TRW told me to refill with Transynd. Allison sells that and there is an SAE Spec for it. Transynd or the SAE equivalent MUST bge used in the Allison tranny. They (TRW) SWITCHED from Regular ATF to Transynd on their Long Range or High Mileage warranties. The tech that I talked to said that TRW was going to run this long and drawn out experiment to see if they could develop their own oil or what would reduce their warranty costs as well as provide their customers with a longer life. SOME of the TRW Engineers had worked at Allison and piped up. GO TO TRANSYND (SAE Equivalent)....Allison spent a fortune and they were bigger and had more "tech and testing support". The consensus was that it would be a waste of money to repeat that. They did and almost immediately, their warranty costs came down and there were less issues due to lubrication failures. SO....I have changed my filters and also done TWO "replenishments" where I pumped out the 2 gallon reservoir and put back in Transynd. Here is a GREAT product that I would use again.... https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-businesses/heavy-duty-lubricants/products/mobil-delvac-1-atf/ If there was less than 20% difference in costs....go with the Allison....otherwise use the Movil Delvac. I use the Delvac synthetic gear oil for the rear end and many also here do. NOW....IF, and this is INFO for those not familiar.... The Dynasty MOST likely has a 5 Gallon reservoir. There are THREE stacked filters in the reservoir and MAYBE a spin on (Zinga was what Monaco used) filter. IF he drains and bleeds down the system, I would NOT go back with the Texaco Rando HD 46 fluid. You can buy an equivalent... I looked at the 2002 and 2004 (Monaco site does NOT have the 2003) Manual. REALLY good writeup on the hydraulic system. I would download BOTH and read....they changed the descriptions....the 2002 was really informative but there were some pertinent figures in 2004. GREAT lube charts and diagrams and info...NOW...it gets fuzzy. The Dynasties were SUPPOSED to have (according the discussions here) a 5 gallon tank. Mine is a 2 gallon tank. My total system is listed at 35 Quarts and SO IS THE Dynasty (2002 and 2004). There are great instructions for changing the 3 stack Nelson system... We have NOT had, to my knowledge, anyone switch so the total amount needed is an unknown.... FOLKS have blended the two....(ATF and Hydraulic). Now...YES....Fred White did talk about Hydraulic contamination and he was our resident expert. BUT, typically, that was on the Slide and Genny Slide system and it was MONACO's sloppy workmanship. They used Teflon Tape on the entire valve manifold and that stopped up the small orifice reversing valves. I do NOT recall anyone having an issue with the Power Steering and Cooling Fan systems due to contamination. There have been pump and motor issues, but mainly from age. SO...I don't know. It would require breaking a line and installing a gage to determine if there was adequate pressure. IF there was low pressure, then my GUT feel is that the Cooling system would not be working properly as the fans that cool or blow through the side radiator would be an issue and you would see the Engine and Tranny temps elevated... JUST SOME THOUGHTS....again the final decision is up to the owner.. My take...and no offense intended for others with differing advice or opinions....

it the movement is shifting, then as many pointed out, take it to a truck shop. Some comments from experience (learned from others) to consider. Van Williams is our chassis guy guru, along with others. You have the TRW steering box. There is an adjustment for the "play". I installed a Watts Link on mine under Van's watchful eye. He then adjusted my steering box. FWIW, I had about 50K or so. He said mine was marginally adjustable as in it did not need much tweaking. There are YouTubes and also writeups on adjusting the slack. You want to go VERY slowly and carefully... Wheels should be centered. There is a lock nut and a screwdriver slot. MAY have to spray a little WD-40d to get the nut and the stud loosened up. MY SAGE (but novice advice and comments)... IF the condition does not seem "really unsafe...."....then I would do the following... Pull the Chassis Lube sheet (you can get the PDF of the Owner's Manual and print that page) and get a competent OTR truck shop to lube it properly. You ALSO have a hidden grease fitting inside the cab inside the cowling that covers the steering column....this needs to be lubed!. When the chassis is lubed, have the shop jack up each side of the front end. Turn the wheels hard right and lube the front end....then hard left and repeat. They can look for any issues, but you want it properly lubed. There is also a "high" fitting near the steering box from the wheel shaft (memory). ONCE you have it aligned....drive it for a while and notice what is happening. This ASSUMES that the front Tire Pressure is correct. Look on the plate on the driver's console and inflate (COLD) to maybe 5 PSI below the listed pressure. This is the pressure designed, based on the tires, to give you the proper weight rating to match the axles. IF the shop is familiar with how to adjust the TRW steering box, they can check and tweak....if needed. I can give you insight based on "Barry" the shop manager at Josams in Orlando....one of the premier sites and Lazy Days and all the dealerships send their rigs to him. He said he has never or only very rarely seen any ball joint issues or need for replacement on a Roadmaster Chassis in over 20+ years of working on them....assuming they had marginal lubrication. SO....do NOT fall victim to any major repairs without a second opinion....Ohio ain't that far from Florida and Josams is the ONLY shop on the east coast that I trust. Barry's FIX for a pull....SWAP the front tires. That, in 90% of customers complaints, will cure it. THAT assumes that the tires are wearing OK and there are no alignment problems. IF you have a front end alignment done, do NOT depend on the shop. Have the tech or service writer call Josams and get the SPECS and tips....PAY THEM FOR THAT. I had a tire that just "went bad" on a trip to the west coast. All the folks here and my "experts" felt it was the tire and NOT a front end issue. I did have the coach checked for ball joint play and the shop said....hey, they all have a smidge of looseness...but drive on. I put on TWO new Toyo Tires and have maybe 10K on them. They are WEARING FINE. SO....if the tires LOOK OK from wear...then swap them. NEXT....while in the shop or having the tires swapped, have the techs check the shock bolts. I can't recall if your shocks are Eye and Eye or Eye and Stud. The top Stud seems to work loose. IF you have a loose shock, that MIGHT be the cause....but folks have experimented and driven without shocks. BUT, you DO need the shocks TIGHT and that is something that happens.... That is about it....good luck...

Leaks and gaps are subjective. If the lower seal seems uniform and tight, then that is about all you can do. Many of us have found that there were air leaks (summer heat and winter cold) in the corners and have moved or perhaps repositioned the corner seal(s) to shut off the air. Might post a picture of what you concern is to better understand and get a response.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3aJ520peN84 https://www.amazon.com/Fridge-Fixer-Original/dp/B07YNCBRCP/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw47eFBhA9EiwAy8kzNEmUbxv0rHEH-ebREWpLnudRzSdd8449gGEiOwVroxO8FTPvaMDJ8RoC0xkQAvD_BwE&hvadid=408371487010&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9009731&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=16191451259059485096&hvtargid=kwd-295309523426&hydadcr=19110_9427499&keywords=fridge+fixer&qid=1622041790&sr=8-1 https://www.recubed.solutions/talk-to-us I ordered the Fridge Fixer in 2017. I talked to the owner who was 3D printing and got the latest "skinny". He added (or maybe I did) a thin strip of fuzzy Velcro to the back of the lock. I opted for a Belt and Suspenders install. It took a little more time....but it has worked flawlessly and we have spent almost 6 months on the road with it since then. I lined up EVERYTHING....per the instructions. I then added a thin strip of 3M Very High Bond CLEAR double stick to the mounting bar....right beside (memory) where the aluminum flat stock meets the refrigerator. I also used some on the back of the middle piece...which held it more securely. I passed this onto him. AFTER watching the 2019 video, I can see some improvements in the design. The holes are now countersunk so that the bars fit exactly on the end. There are also locks with Allen screws to keep the locking hasp (part that the T lock goes into) in the center. The price has gone us as the features were added. MY ADVICE....ORDER ONE from Amazon or him direct. LOOK AT IT. If you see (or are as anal as some of us are....Ex Engineers NEVER DIE...they just keep changing the state of their body), then INSTALL it and see how it fits. IF the lock or hasp does NOT seem rigid, then put the 3M Clear VHB tape on the back. COMMENT....I always travel with the 3M VHB. I have fixed small seals or gasket tears or such. I once pulled off a piece of door gasket that the adhesive had failed on. I used WD40 to clean off all the residue on the gasket and the door frame. Then I used Dawn and got rid of the WD40 residue and an alcohol prep to dry. That was a quick fix....when I had the final Extended warranty repair, I casually showed the tech the gasket which NOW had some wear. He replaced it (no cost to me) and said.... WHAT DID YOU USE to reglue it...? Told him and he started using it. NOTE....that is the SAME double stick tape that holds the mounting plates for my homemade "ResRefer HOLD IT IN PLACE" design....and nothing has moved..

I agree with Richard. BUT first, I would go back to basics and do a Voltage and Continuity measurement. BTW....if you do some "LOOKIING", you MAY luck out and find that there are TWO loads or outgoing circuits on the GFCI. Mine had that. I found that ONE of them went to the Refrigerator (inverter) Icemaker outlet. I pulled that line and put it on the LINE side, so effectively, my Inverter Refrigerator Outlet was NOT GFCI Protected. There were NO OTHER downstream outlets within 6 feet of a water (ground) source, SO I rewired it and solved a world of problems. This has been cussed and discussed many times. If you had a Monaco Factory setup, there would not be a GFCI on the ResRefer....so look at that first.... THEN>>>> The small terminal (blade) is the Line or HOT. The wider one is the Neutral and the Round is the ground. Line (small) to Neutral (wider) should be a nominal 120 VAC. Line to Ground should be 120 VAC Should be ZERO VAC between Neutral and Ground. Should be very low, if any, resistance (Continuity) between Ground and Neutral. I was having an issue with the Magnum. The switch to inverter when you broke camp was flaky. THEN...I realized that the Setup on the Magnum was OFF. The values were all over the map. Had the wrong type of battery and such. THEN, there were times when I could NOT actually change or reprogram it. Talked twice to Magnum. They pulling the remote (phone cable) from the Inverter. This basically takes the Remote out of the circuit. THEN do a reset. This resets the INTERNAL electronics to "default" which is fine for a typical 4 bank (6 VDC) setup. The "Search" function is active, so you might get a blip and a Sat Receiver dish might reboot or you lose the microwave clock. THEN....run it that way. BINGO....no issues on the switch from LINE (genny) to Inverter. Therefore the remote was "flaky". They also had me look at a tech spec setting, but the results were inconclusive. Therefore, I ordered a new remote. They told me which one was the latest Rev level for my inverter (it is a MS2012 PSW). THAT might be the issue....OR, if you have a problem with the Charging or a connection and get a Low Battery Cutoff. A LBC (voltage drops below your set point), then the inverter shuts off and the there is a FAULT. I did this recently during a battery exercise/load test. I THINK that you really need to do a RESET to clear the inverter and properly restart the system. I did that and also checked my remote setting parameters. THEY WERE FINE. I would verify that I truly DID have an OPEN Neutral....and then chase that. BTW, if your GFCI is older than say 5 - 7 years, REPLACE IT. IT gets crotchety. Use a 20AMP unit and stick with the stock one....Magnum publishes a list of which ones to use. Cooper Wiring Devices got swallowed up by Eaton, so an Eaton Wiring Devices is what you need... I put one in in 2013 and it is still working great today... IF that does NOT solve the issue and you DO have have an open neutral, you need to start trouble shooting and check the INCOMING line to the inverter....as well as the internal connections... Good Luck...

I switched mine from the Dometic 1402....the Dometic just seemed to be getting "tuckered out". I had done all the tricks such as replace/repair the drain lines which were internal and would be a PITA to fix. Folks were reporting that the drain lines needed to be replaced from the cabinet all the way down as they were a source of air leaks. We could never really load the unit fully when shopping as there were no reserves or such. I added a supplement cooling (exhaust) fan to the system in the upper vent and also swapped out the sensor to a lower temp so that the cooling would come on quicker. Since I never really boondocked, the additional cooling was not a problem. I did talk to the Dometic engineers and they said that was recommended, but that for "battery life", they chose the higher 125 dF sensor. I actually put in the Norcold sensor which was 116 (memory) dF sensor. In 2018, we had planned a 8,500 mile trip over almost 3 months....and I did NOT want to fight or worry about the Dometic. We chose the newer Samsung as the older, larger one was discontinued. Actually, it uses a smidge more juice than the older one. Installed the "Fridge Lock" device that many were using. Totally satisfied... One thing, you NEED to insulated the outside panels as the newer ResRefers have a narrower operating range. No more...unless you get an "outside rated" running them on the back porch. Tom Johnson in Marion did the install using my fabricated mounts (3M double adhesive) and they said they would use this next time on their installs. Once I insulated the vent panels and also closed off the vents (insulated also) the side openings, we have not had any issues. Did purchase the Lowes extended warranty. As to the batteries. Am still using the 4 Trojan T-105's that is the original Monaco setup. At the 2018 Gathering, there was a mega discussion about batteries and ResRefers. The gist...when boondocking, shut off all power (unplug) to the electronics such as Sat dish receiver, TV, etc. Put the ResRefer in the Energy mode. Shut off the icemaker (heat to get the ice out of the mold) should be sufficient. MOST folks have (and should) converted to LED interior lights...fortunately my Fluorescent tubes are OK. NOW, you WILL need to run the Genny about 2 hours or so once every 24 hours...and again, it depends on what other habits you have. Obviously domestic water needs play a part as the pump will run. We were in a Sequoia and they have a screwy "Quiet Time" where you can run the Genny during the day....and we would be gone. Rather than let the AGS work off a voltage drop, you can trigger the AGS via a harness from an external source. I installed a timer so that the AGS got a START (close a switch) signal in the AM and in the PM. I then backed off on the charge time to 2 -3 hours and never had any issue and we played board games in the MH at night with the LED lights.

https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/product-inverter/2000w-12vdc-pure-sine-inverter-charger-0 YES....your Inverter is working as designed and the issues you have are related to the difference between a Modified (ME series) and a Pure Sine (MS Series). Here is my take on it....since you asked. Basically, this would be a ONE for ONE swap. You need to get the Model and Serial Number from your old inverter. 1>Magnum can tell you EXACTLY what is a direct swap as to the PN. ODDS are...it is this... https://www.amazon.com/Magnum-MS2012-2000W-Inverter-Charger/dp/B002MW6PHG 2>You will also need to purchase a NEW Remote that utilizes the features and such of the newer MS series. The inverter does NOT come with the REMOTE... 3>you will need to replace, assuming you have one, the AGS to the ASG-N Auto Gen Start model. 4>You will need to replace the GFCI (s?) that you have on the inverter. You MAY have a GFCI Breaker in the main panel or you MAY have an individual 20 Amp GFCI (like in your home, garage or bathroom) that is inside the MH. All these MUST be compatible with the NEW Inverter. Magnum has a list of approved models and brands that will work with their inverters (have been tested). NOW....here is where it gets tricky....and not knowing you level of expertise, here goes....this is NOT meant to be talking down or condensending. PROBABLY in your 2001, you did NOT have a Sub Panel or downstream panels with breakers. HOPEFULLY, there are TWO cables or outputs from your inverter. That would be ONE for the Microwave (Dedicated). The OTHER is a single 20 Amp service that will go to the GFCI. Again, if you have a GFCI in the main panel, then that is the Inverter...if you have a receptacle style GFCI, then that is what is protecting the MH. Monaco typically did very little planning, so the single GFCI was set up for ALL the internal house receptacles and the GFCI gets old and cantankerous (like some of US) and then complains and trips out quicker. I would ALSO offer an additional solution that MIGHT be more cost effective. FIRST...IF the Inverter works for ALL your OTHER needs...and you indicate that it does....then look at options. To preface that remark.... Did you also upgrade or get a NEW Remote when you installed the Inverter 5 years ago? If not, and this is MY personal advice....I would ask Magnum for the model number of the most up to date (latest revision) of the remote that would work for your ME inverter. They can tell you if yours is new or whatever. I would order one from Amazon or online and upgrade. That way, you have a NEW one. I DO have a MS (Pure Sine) that is a 2009. My controller went haywire and I had functional issues. It is NOT a bad practice to occassionally do a HARD reset at the inverter. There is a small power button. Hold it in for the count of 20. That clears any faults and the inverter goes from there. You SHOULD also, while (If?) you have Magnum on the phone, ask them to go over the Inverter Setup functions. NOW>>>>all of this will NOT cure your original complaint....but it WILL give you optimum performance from your existing 5 YO inverter. My best guess is that you will spend around $2000 or so for the new (MS2012) and the remote and the AGS-N and the GFCI's....maybe $400-$500 in labor. If it is a turnkey job where you purchase the items from a dealer or tech...it might be a few hundred more. IF you need to use some items, such as your clock or the heating pads, then install a standalone inverter and run a separate outlet... Battery powered clock might be a good option. A Xantrex (well known brand) 600 Watt PURE Sine Wave (with GFCI) is $170 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-Technology-Inc-012-TR1000-806-1206/dp/B002O5P8BA/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwna2FBhDPARIsACAEc_VJJk7Iaqm_PaV_KnnyfRb2u3vG34shGMl9m1aESFXb6KihCsBNw9UaAivxEALw_wcB&hvadid=410022231978&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9009731&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=14292301071495808977&hvtargid=kwd-300216474606&hydadcr=7484_11110662&keywords=xantrex+806-1206&qid=1621885051&sr=8-1 The SIMPLIEST install is to have it put right beside your existing Magnum and run the DC Cables directly to it. That is a SHORT Run and the DC cables to your battery bank are way oversize....so the additional current or charging would NOT be an issue. Then have a 120 VAC circuit added and routed to your bedroom. Then, use that for your electric blankets. Your electric blankets max out around 175 watts or 350 total, so you have way more capacity. The circuit can be run with #14 Romex which is rated for 15 amps or 1800 Watts....you meet NEC and RVIA code... Just a thought....should not be a large job. IF you do have a "plug in only" outlet in the bedroom, the electrician (this does NOT require a MH Tech) might be able to find a suitable spot for a Junction Box and run the circuit there and it would be the same one you "used" to have....only it would not support a device over 600 watts or 5 Amps AC. Just a suggestion....you have to decide on cost versus benefit....

That is correct. M M did mine at one of the gatherings. They pop off the pad cover and plug into each individual switch pad and then download the codes. You DO need the codes for each individual pad. ODDS are that M M or someone can read the old switch and do the codes. BUT....as a backup for you, I would suggest that you do the following... Look at the prints, assuming you have them and SHOULD....I think they are in the files....There is a print specificially for the Intellitec modules and also the switches. VERIFY what switches you have and the number of switches per pad. Make up a matrix of each switch pad. For each switch, mark or identify the light(s) controlled. Location is sufficient...you do NOT need to know the number Include the three modules (two dimming and one relay output) as well. Note the position or number of the circuit on the Modules. You NOW, should have sufficient information for someone with the programming system and the skills to "Reprogram or configure" a new switch pad for you. For the PUMP Modules....these are BUGGERS.... Pull each of them OUT. You will find that there are TWO pigtails for that switch module. ONE controls the PUMP. It is NOT a Multiplex channel...it is hard wired (Soldered directly) to the contacts for the Multiplex switch. In other words...if you press it....it toggles. THAT switch pad failed on my keypad and a member made me up a new one. WORKED GREAT. fortunately, the switch that failed was for the undercounter in the bathroom. The switch would "come on" in a phantom situation. If you ever have an issue with one of those, you can get a NEW keypad and have it programmed....based on the coding and lights....but might not get someone to solder and add the output. Workaround would be to simply put in a pushbutton Momentary Contact....IN PARALLEL with the pump circuit wires. You could strip back those wires and then do a test short... Hope this helps....

I would NOT simplify it. It IS more complex than you think. I assume that the panel that is crazed and removed is a SLIDING Panel for tolls and such. Windows with a sliding panel are NOT THE EASIEST TO REBUILD. Atwood had two techs that had been doing at least 5 windows per day for several years had to work on mine for about 3 - 4 hours. THE issue is that the window has "been bent" during assembly. The Tech (P. J. McCants whom Chris Thorgmartin used as a resource and was an Ex Monaco ELkhart Assembly and Painting Supervisor) said that my WIndow WOULD be partially damaged upon removal. Monaco sort of "Cut AT the openings and had lousy templates. He was correct. One corner of the body had not been cut out enough. But brute strength and and large rubber mallets were used during Assembly. He finally had to pry mine out. It was as wide as yours, but taller. Atwood had to do some "hammer adjusting" to get the frame apart and to fit the new glass. PJ also did some cutting and grinding so that it would not need brute force to put back in. With a Sliding Glass, it HAS to work or slide after the new glass is installed and MUST be tested prior to installation. The TWO panes and one of them being a slider makes the assembly more difficult. They took mine apart about 3 times and did some "adjusting" or repositioning of the panes so that the screws lined up at the end and the sliding pane worked. You also need to note HOW the window was installed. The Window is put in first....then the Dash goes in. Monaco allowed very little room for accessing the interior screws that held in the interior frame. They had to use a special set of bits mounted in a very thin 1/4" ratchet to get the two lower ones in the picture. I THINK I could have gotten it out myself, but it would have been a PITA. They worked for about 15 minutes (in and out) on just that lower corner. If your window is above the dash and you can see all the interior screws....you are in much better shape. BUT, due to the size and the sliding pane, I would be cautious as to WHO took apart the window and did the reassembly. IF brute force is used or if the frame is not quite aligned and THEN they put in the screws and say "this will work and the frame will pull itself into place"....stand back and pray. Even Atwood has cracked or lost a pane and then it is a 4 week turnaround. PERSONALLY....I would have Duncan/Lippert do the entire job. Either drive to Elkhart or ship the window there. You would have a local shop remove the window. You would PREORDER and have the new panes at Elkhart (or they might have another location). When they get in the new panes, they measure and inspect... Then you crate up your old window and ship it to them. Then they do the install and ship back to you. IF you have a good glass shop and they have done this before, then that would be great. This should NOT be a "Gee, I can do this....but this is my first job" approach as the sliding window complicates it. Just some advice from a person that does almost ALL my own work and also went through getting a new window installed. Maybe I am too conservative....but I now have the SAME tint and logo and such on the entire window... Good Luck...

WISE MOVE. If you plan to do a LOT of travel, I would cut a piece of Plexiglass (or have it done) and the use clear or Gorilla tape and put it over the OUTSIDE. My fear was a rock or something taking out the INSIDE glass. A LOT of folks advised me to do that, but they MAY not have ever seen a piece of Tempered Glass craze or "explode". By laminating the outer glass, it would NOT fail and the inner was sealed. Plexiglass is CHEAP....and should have been easy....if I was AT HOME. Since I had to traverse almost 3,000 miles and was on a VERY Tight schedule, I opted to do what I did. With Plexiglass, which is a COMMON replacement for Tempered (slightly curved) glass in boat windshields, you have protection. Good Luck...

Yes, You are correct. It is a matter of personal taste and choice. Yes, any good reputable glass company can order a piece of tempered glass. In my case, the glass has slightly rounded corners and an angled gut. If this was a piece of glass that was rectangular, then a glass company can order a piece to fit. I had that done on a boat windshield. But, IF the glass has a unique shape such as radiused corners and angled cuts, then the glass company will have to provide a drawing for the glass and it will be custom cut and tempered. From what I have read and also what my local guy (a glass replacement company) tells me, it is easier to actually cut and fit the glass to the frame. Then, you send (ship) that glass to a distributor (there are 4 in NC) that can "Temper" it. Otherwise, you do a tracing on carboard or butcher paper and have them cut it and then temper it and ship to you. If you live in a large city, that is easy. There is no tempering facility in Raleigh, NC, but there is one in Charlotte... The other issue is the tint. The glass company will have to match (or film afterwards) the Atwood % darkness or tint. The install, once the window is pulled is simple. Originally, there was some folk lore about an inert gas between the two panes. That was shot down when I talked to the lady that actually got Duncan systems back into the production of replacement glass. They just clean and then seal. I will tell you that my entire window was a PITA. It was 3 panes. One large vertical (full length) pane. One fixed Panel on the other side at the top and a sliding or a lift up pane below it. It took two techs over 3 hours to finally get the window back together as the frame will be warped. NOW, if there was a custom cut....maybe not. SO....dealer's choice and personal preference. Tint may vary...and the folks that put in safety laminated glass say that is not an issue now... It is just a matter of choice and how close you want it to match and such. It is NOT rocket science...but it will require some skill. My advice would be to get a quote from Duncan on new glass....shipped to a good glass company....and compare the costs of the glass company fitting and getting the new or both panes tempered. Odds are....the interior one is OK... IF that is the case, then one could use the INTERIOR pane on the outside and use tempered, not tinted on the inside (new) and film if needed... All sorts of options...

I had the same issue. There are TWO ways....actually THREE... First, call Northwest RV and HOPE they have one in their "we bought all the left over Monaco Parts" Next, you can have it replaced with Laminated Safety Glass. There are several companies that do that. The window has to be removed and carefully measured and then the glass if cut to fit and reinstalled. The tinting might be different...but it works. The final is to have a replacement made from the original company. Atwood was the supplier, They have ALL the prints on the windows. Mine was gone on the outside when we were in WA in the summer of 2018. I got hold of the factory and then ordered a replacement. It took about 4 weeks to make. The factory has a custorm shop in Elkhart and they stripped down the window and put in the new glass. The glass is Tempered....that is why it Shattered. FORTUNATELY, mine had CRAZED, but not disassembled or fell out. I used several thicknesses of heavy (Gorilla) clear tape and laminated the outer glass. I reinforced it with Duct Tape. I drove almost 3,000 miles from WA to IN. Along the way, I had to put on two aluminum staves or gars as the glass was vibrating. It looked UGLY, but it sure beat trying to custom fit and cut a piece of 1/4" plywood. I was having some work done at a shop in ELkhart. They pulled the window for me. I took it over to the Atwood center and then brought it back and they reinstalled it. There are SOIME glass shops that can custom cut glass for the window. Then they have to send it out for tempering. You can NOT cut or do anything when the glass has been tempered. I did a write up on this... It is in the posts.... DUNCAN SYSTEMS INC #071 29391 OLD US HWY 33 Elkhart, IN 46516-1427 USA Fax (574) 294-7289 Phone (800) 551-9149 Duncan is part of Lippert. They bought the OLD Atwood Window Company. They also have all the intellectual property....as in the PRINTS and the years and the models. They can look up the model and they will send you a print. BEAR IN MIND....this is for the outer perimeter of the window. I did a BUNCH of crosschecking measurements and then verified that it was the correct one. I dealt with a Jeanne K....they may have changed a lot....but start researching Duncan https://www.rvglass.com/quote?make=MONACO RV LLC&model=DIPLOMAT They appear to be operating under RVGLASS.com.. I put in your info....and this is the form to send in. You can also call... Good Luck...

typically with a good set (4) Trojan 4-105 (225 AH per battery), you can run the Genny around 2 - 3 hours per day and be fine. That assumes you go energy stingy and use the energy mode, Ice off, LED interior and also turn off the "Standbye" modes (kill the power) to your HEC. You MIGHT get by with 36 hours or so....but then you will have to do a 4 hour recharge to peak out the bank. Others will have to chime in. Solar $/watt ain't cheap....consider a 3 bank of batteries.

You will dig the hole deeper and wider for the money you will pour into the Norcold. The door gaskets are a known issue. You can NOT buy new gaskets....just the doors. $1200 or so. Many have had to do very strange and exotic and time consuming things. Some have had to find the buzzer or chime when the dreaded DOOR signal comes on. Same for the control board. Many have installed the Amish cooling kits. NO SMALL JOB. You are better off to just pull a window and put in a Samsung. YES....getting it in the door is a PITA. Some have had to pad the dash and such. The techs that did mine popped out a window and used a fork lift and moved the Dometic out and the Samsung in. Your call...but how OLD is the actual cabinet and the electronics and the plastics and such. As much time and money as you have invested, I would certainly give some thought to a rabbit hole that got me out of the never ending cash pit of the Norcold... Typically a professional install will be in the $1000 range. If you have a furnace or such under the Norcold, that complicates it. The only solution there is to go to a $2000 refer or maybe $2400 or so... Payne and somebody makes one. A. J. Madison is a large and reliable supplier that many have used for refers. However, 95% have figured out HOW to make a Samsung work... Good Luck...

Your pictures are great. All I can say is this. I was warned by P. J. McCants, who was one of our go to tech guys in Elkhart to "CHECK" before you installed any plates and I have given Chris this feed back. I have three sets of custom plates that Chris made up for me and I did all the work and Chris' products are top quality. What WAS not clear and I failed to take that into account, was that there was no adjustment on my wardrobe slide. It has plastic, NON ADJUSTABLE, rollers and yours looks like it might be the same....no adjustment....just lock it down.... So whatever piece of the wall or a slide frame that is above the top of the slide MUST have adequate clearance and not rub or bind AFTER you install the plates. I always have a little noise or creaking with all my slides. But, it was MY fault that I did not pick up the "pop" or the excessive noise of the slide extending and the top of the slide hitting the crown molding. I DID figure that out, later, but did not have sufficient tools or such to correct it in the field. I made it better and lubed it....but the damage to the one cable was already done. In your case, I would carefully verify that the top of the slide, assuming from your pictures, that there is NO adjustment on the bottom two rollers, that there will not be a clearance or tolerance issue.... Now, IF the bracket is adjustable and you can "lower" the bracket or the rollers, then you have options. Mine DID NOT....and it took a LOT of "work" to get it half way usable. But, I think that the stress of the initial retractions and extensions damaged one cable and then that had to be fixed. Since yours appears to be a direct motor drive, then the gearing or transfer box or such "could" be damaged. A little looking and checking ahead of time might prevent you from inadvertently doing some damage to the gears or such... I say this without any disrespect to your skill set. Quite the contrary, your approach and work, as a "newbie" is unbelievable and we all learn...

make sure that you do not have an issues with crown molding or such along the top of the slide. If that slide has adjustable rollers, you may have to drop them down. I installed the plates where the rollers were fixed and just small plastic ones. I had to pull the top crown molding or the piece where the slide runs under and take off about 1/4". I say that as I put the plates on and then took a LONG trip I actually had hand sand and add some clearance in the field. Eventually, even though is was a lot better, the inference or friction of the top of the slide killed one of the cables and it had to be replaced....which was a PITA and way beyond my skill set and the tech had to totally disassemble the wardrobe slide and replace the cable and then down the header or the piece of wood that was over the side.

You do great work. But don't understand you last post and your pictures. The IOTA 50R is the fire hazard ATS. It was recalled by many manufactures and it has stranded folks and caught fire. Your pictures show it. You also show, in pervious pictures, a Surge Guard device. Can't tell from the print and such if that is your NEW ATS. The RV shops usually (or the big ones) install an ESCO LPT50BRD. That is a a PLAIN and simple and robust ATS. Folks here usually run a Progressive HW50C upstream (do NOT PUT IT DOWNSTREAM) of the ATS. It is field serviceable. As to the GFCI. If you have a GFCI breaker or a GFCI receptacle, REPLACE THEM. You should use a 20 Amp Receptacle. That was factory. Whatever the GFCI Breaker, if you have that layout, match the brand and the amperage. The GFCI's will get hold and crotchety. They will trip for no good rason. After you replace your GFCI (receptacle or Breaker), if you have continuing issues, then you have a wiring issue such as a HOT or High Resistance connection in one of the receptacles. This imbalances the load on the Neutral vs the Hot and the GFCI trips. HARD to trace down....but that is what one must do. Provide a little more content about your GFCI issue, but for the interim....start with a NEW one. I recommend the Eaton (Cooper?) Wiring Devices 20 amp standard GFCI Lowes has them. only certain brands work and the Eaton (used to be Cooper) are great.

The other option for the Valid, and possibly the HWH, look under the Right FR area (behind or in front of the step well) where the compressor is. You will see a Switch. If you can stick your head up and under the body, it is easy to see and easy to access. Typically, Monaco used the stock Viair switch. It has two solderless terminals so you pull one and bingo....there is no power going to the compressor. Here is what the Valid switch looks like. It is an ON @90 and OFF @120 PSI switch....simple. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PH80PI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 BTW, whilst under there, make sure that the switch is properly "placed". The switch should be ABOVE the compressor as you get condensate in the switch and it will NOT work. I did not know that my switch was bad for several years until I shorted or jumpered the terminals and said..."What's that noise". A couple of zip ties is all that is needed to correct the Monaco assembly error.

These breakers are actually standard breakers, the more I dig and also think (MH is in storage). Read the first couple of pages of the PDF. The power is actually switched from two relays, so there is not an "Auxillary" trip, but just a load shedding relay. Memory also tells me that folks have had issues with the PCB and tried to find replacement relays (SMD not plug ins). So, basically, the Breakers are just THAT....plain old garden variety CB....there MAY be some special testing or design or designation that went into them. Magnum specifies a certain brand & model of GFCI outlets https://janeandjohn.org/docs/EMSmanual.pdf Some of the Intellitec panels had GFCI Breakers installed, so they are probably just a "Plug and insert" style breaker. I DID read that if you pulled the power fuse for the unit, that it just "engaged" or let the relays go to NORMALLY closed and you could go merrily along and overload your circuits until the breakers (main or branch) got hot and tripped. I'm in you camp....I have rarely seen, and I was responsible for maintenance at some pretty large facilities and also designed and was the project manager for several renovations and also two new plants....ALL the breakers TRIP in a panel. I suspect there is, potentially, an ugly culprit in the panel and a competent residential electrician needs to resolve... BUT, if there is an obvious high resistance connection....then MAYBE. suffice it to say that if they are (memory) snap in breakers then something is wrong when a light load causes all of them to TRIP. I would be concerned about the integrity of the two L1 and L2 busses or perhaps the Neutral Buss... Again....not for the faint hearted or uninformed..... I hope the OP reads this and takes apropriate action with a qualified individual (residential or commercial) electrrician.....this is NOT a typical "MH House" electrical issue that stems around 12 VDC circuits. Thanks for your comments....we all learn...

I replied but, you raise an interesting QUESTION. The EMS controls the "Innards" of the Circuit Breaker. It does NOT "Trip or lever actuate" the breaker....otherwise, one would hear the constant snapping or clicking. IT MIGHT BE GOOD if the OP provided more info. I TOO, assumed that all the breakers were Physically Tripped and he had to reset or turn them back on. In over 13 years and almost two years of overnight usage and 65K miles, I don't think that I have ever had to "reset" or turn back on a circuit breaker and his panel is almost identical to mine. It IS strange as to WHY the breakers are tripping, if that means that he has to TURN OFF and THEN BACK ON to reset. That is why I suggested the PM.

https://www.monacocoach.com/resources/media/manuals/2009_camelot_OM.pdf Use this link. Go to Page 175. That gives you the "Monaco" Explanation. Based on the age of the OP (2007) and my 2009 Camelot, the system is the same as is the functions. It prevents you from overloading your system. There is a "Check Voltage" input to the Intellitec EMS. IF the system reads 220 VAC between Line 1 and Line 2, then the EMS assumes you have a full 50 amp service. If it reads ZERO Volts, then it assumes you have 30 amp service and that is "interconnected" or tied together and you only can use a total of 30 amp. There is a selector switch to allow you to "Tell" the EMS that you are running adapters and only have 20 Amps of service. It prevents overloads in that each breaker has a "electronic" trip circuit that shuts down the power. This is NOT a "MANUAL trip like an overload....but merely cycling the power ON and OFF to shed or reduce the load. EMS stands for Energy Management System...