Tom Cherry

See the recent posts. You have SEVERAL choices.... Call Thin-lite and see if you can purchase the older ballast. Ask them what type they are....but I would suspect that they are the same style as mine. IF you have some new bulbs in a fixture that is working.....let it cool down or be off for a while. Then turn it on....if it is a two step process, then it is probably NOT electronic. Then you can do one of the following....save buying a NEW fixture, assuming it will fit. Optronics changed the fixture dimensions, or at least I was told that. Retrofit with the "Stick on" array style. All you have to do is to identify Positive and Negative. I can't even see my ballast....much less remove it without pulling down the fixture and drilling out pop rivets. Retrofit to an electronic 12 VDC Ballast. Then the GE bulbs should work. That is assuming that there is such an animal and Thin-Lite should be able to tell you. Retrofit to the straight wired 12VDC tubes. They are twice as expensive....but you do not need a ballast.... Let us know what you find out from Thin-Lite.....that helps us all.

Jeff, Gary and Dennis.... EDITED 3:05 Eastern LATE BREAKING...I just received a call back from Optronics, who made my overhead fluorescent fixtures. They researched them....and could NOT determine the specs for the early 2000's units. One SENIOR Tech said that he THOUGHT that the Ballasts were NOT ELECTRONIC. Therefore, the GE Tubes that I posted are not compatible with them. He believed that the ballasts were more of the conventional "old style" where there is a preheater voltage to "start" the light and then it drops off to the run voltage. That would explain the two step or dim, then bright startup. As we talked, he said that the 12 VDC Ballasts, he was told, was a different "Critter" than the AC Ballasts. All the info we have today primarily deals with that. Therefore, I am removing the tubes that I just installed and will look at other options....which are pointed out in my posts that follows. Thanks to the folks that were involved and commented as they prompted me to do the research. The lights work great.....but the question is HOW LONG will that last. The Senior tech did say.....we used one brand (could not remember) and we also got some from a vendor in Taiwan....but based on his recollection....they were not electronic and the part numbers were so old that you could not find specs on them. The overall comments about how they are made are correct. My ballasts are working and I only found a few cases where folks had lost the ballasts. That may be good....but based on age, there COULD BE (no evidence) some failures. Please read carefully..... I should have used the original DISCLAIMER that Colonel Duckwitz always quoted when giving information on our Motorhomes. Monaco NEVER made two alike. Purchasing ruled and Monaco would switch vendors for a penny. In addition, Monaco used whatever was "available" when the MH was made....which could be 3 year old items....especially in the last 18 months before the bankruptcy. (see this for HISTORY....which was discussed MORE on the original site... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monaco_Coach_Corporation ) Having said that, this is what I have found... ThinLine and Optronics were two of the brands used. I THINK that Optronics bought out a company named LiteCo. There are posts on ETrailer about the "LiteCo 179" and it being 100% NON FIELD Serviceable. I tried to contact Optronics yesterday, but they were closed.....so here is what I know....as well as THINK... LiteCo 179 was a fixture used by Monaco in "some?" 2005 models of HR. NOW....was that used in all 2005's and was that also used in both Eugene, OR and Elkhart, IN? God ONLY knows. For a while, the same "model" was made in both and there were MAJOR differences... Mine are Optronics 179 with a manufacturing date of late 2007. If you go here, this is shows the fixture from all sides. https://rvinteriors.visonerv.com/cgi-bin/md/M361167/s7.pl If you keep clicking on the picture, it will toggle between 6 or 7 views. That is what I have....mine were made within days of the one in the picture. LOOK CAREFULLY at the construction, especially the bulb end caps and the back. This unit is NON SERVICABLE. There are requests for a replacement ballast on the various forums, but I did NOT find an answer. The bulb end caps are pop riveted (long ones) to a bracket. That bracket is then pop riveted to the back of the fixture. The Ballast is pop riveted to the back of the fixture. There is NOT ONE SCREW used in the assembly. Probably to prevent vibration loosening or maybe cheaper as the metal parts are stamped and punched and painted. The ballast is under the reflector. The reflector is held in place or "sandwiched" and does not appear to come apart...without drilling out the rivets from the back side. There are also posts on other forums and the dimensions (back side fitted into roof) MAY not be compatible with later fixtures....but you might find an LED one that is totally surface mounted and does not have the fixture recessed into the ceiling. IF I get INFO from Optronics, I will post. BOTTOM LINE....THEY WORK. I have 12 VDC Lights....NOT 115 VAC. Mine are Electronic, OR THAT IS MY ASSUMPTION. One does NOT always watch and do high speed photography on a light fixture. I have TWO fixtures with older bulbs, which I keep turned off. The light comes ON instantly and then a few milliseconds later, it sort of "ramps up" and reaches full illumination. You have to watch it several times to pick up the transition. Therefore, I assumed mine are INSTANT ON. Having said that, I surveyed my three main home fluorescent fixtures. TWO, that I replaced, that were "Electronic" appear to be totally "instant on" in that there is no change in the light output. One is the same as in the MH. On with maybe 80% illumination and then instantly brightens to full power. SO....the Optronics (179) that I have are the "two step". I remember that some members in the older forum stated that if you allowed the tubes to go bad or flicker or have issues that could damage the ballast. True or NOT....I don't know. But, I decided NOT to push them and replaced them when they flickered or went out or had "internal burn marks". OK....I MIGHT be living on borrowed time....but when I turn on the LED's they do NOT have the pause or two step operation. They light instantly to full power. EDIT.... Called Optronics....they are "Researching" it and the techs may have been in HS when this was made. The lamp requirement is a F15T8. The T8 were 99%, from what I read, ELECTRONIC. There were two types....the Rapid (may have a pause as there is a preheat circuit) and the Instant Start. Here is a paper on that... https://www.halcolighting.com/pdf/WP/T8-IS-Retrofit.pdf Bottom line....Rapid Start gives you longer BULB LIGHT....as the INSTANT START gives you Shorter (higher voltage on start up....particularly bad where the light is turned on and off frequently). BOTH ARE ELECTRONIC. The GE Bulbs require an ELECTRONIC BALLAST....so if your fixtures have T8's in them....then "ODDS ARE", not guaranteed, that the GE's will work with them. NEXT THING....I did find out a bit more. If you are NOT into adhesive arrays, then there is a "Direct" retrofit LED tube. It is about 2X the cost of the GE's....but MAY be available elsewhere cheaper. Here is the INSTALL for it.... http://m4sales.com/InstallT8.pdf Basically, you direct wire your T8 sockets to 12 VDC and you keep the same style and internal "look". As I said, the install in the Optronics would be to do some "probing" of the terminals. You need ONE SIDE of the fixture to be GROUND (both pins on each tube socket or only one....they are internally jumpered). The OTHER side MUST BE 12 VDC and same....only ONE pin or BOTH. Obviously both the end tube sockets must be Parallel wired....and if you don't know what that means.....do some research before you disassemble and cut wiring. The use of the side switch is optional, but I would do it. SO>>>>>>as LONG as your fixtures WORK as in the Ballast is OK....then I would, PERSONALLY, do the tube if you want a "No hassle...no rewire" approach. BUT, if the ballast fails, then you have two options.....upgrade to the T8 Direct 12 VDC LED or go with the retrofit Array strips.... I think that is correct....but others might differ.....whatever works for you....as this did for me.... Hope this helps clear it up. My DW worked inside the MH cleaning after our trip. This was after I changed out ALL the ones that we used. She is ELATED....I guess that cool white and MORE illumination is more of a necessity as you get a little older... CHECK ON YOUR BALLASTS.... IF your light fixture has a "T8 Bulb requirement", ODDS ARE...but NOT GUARANTEED, that you have an electronic ballast...Mine WORK. I KNOW that if you gutted the harness or the wiring that you could get to that is exposed, you would find a "Ground" or the Negative 12VDC. I THINK that the middle terminal of the switch MAY be the positive 12 VDC and the end is the switched. So, if you found both the positive and negative, then you could pull the tube and probably install the strips. I chose NOT to do that....but if I have issues, then that will be my next step. Hope this clarifies some things. If anyone contacts Optronics and they can get the ballast info, that would be helpful....PLEASE POST... Thanks,

I was doing some work remounting the bedroom sliding doors and then got CURIOUS. I corrected a few statements in my first post. The tubes are switchable....as they have a slider switch for different temps of light. They come as COOL WHITE setting The tubes have a label on the top. I put some down. Changed that to where all are ARRAY SIDE down....WOW....that helped also. I decided to do the rest of the ones that we use. SO, I am converting the bathroom and hallway to LED as well as the kitchen/galley lights. That way, it is all done and we can enjoy them. NOW, I am REALLY saving amp hours... LOL... You make the call....rewire and convert to LED or use the LED tubes....

LATE BREAKING...I just received a call back from Optronics, who made my overhead fluorescent fixtures. They researched them....and could NOT determine the specs for the early 2000's units. One SENIOR Tech said that he THOUGHT that the Ballasts were NOT ELECTRONIC. Therefore, the GE Tubes that I posted are not compatible with them. He believed that the ballasts were more of the conventional "old style" where there is a preheater voltage to "start" the light and then it drops off to the run voltage. That would explain the two step or dim, then bright startup. As we talked, he said that the 12 VDC Ballasts, he was told, was a different "Critter" than the AC Ballasts. All the info we have today primarily deals with that. Therefore, I am removing the tubes that I just installed and will look at other options....which are pointed out in my posts that follows. Thanks to the folks that were involved and commented as they prompted me to do the research. The lights work great.....but the question is HOW LONG will that last. The Senior tech did say.....we used one brand (could not remember) and we also got some from a vendor in Taiwan....but based on his recollection....they were not electronic and the part numbers were so old that you could not find specs on them. The overall comments about how they are made are correct. My ballasts are working and I only found a few cases where folks had lost the ballasts. That may be good....but based on age, there COULD BE (no evidence) some failures. Please read carefully....I will add a comment to my additional post.... We have used the Camelot for almost 2 years equivalent....so it has not set in storage that much. I replaced some of the Fluorescent Tubes in 2017 and I knew that more were probably starting "age". In the OLD site, there was quite a bit of discussion that if you kept nursing along the OEM Fluorescent fixtures and the bulbs were aging....that had some impact on the expected life of the ballasts. There was also a lot of discussion about the RFI (EMF? or NOISE) associated with the Fluorescent tubes and their impact on the electronics. Specifically the "clock" or chip that drives the Intellitec EMS as well as some of the 5 button TStats....and a LOT more problems on the Intellitec Multiplex circuitry....whether the full blown version on the Dynasties and above or the hybrid in the Camelots. We were boondocking at a Cabelas in RIchmond and had noticed some failures. For the record, we have 3 18" (2 bulb) fixtures up front in the living-galley area. I keep the front one OFF and we only use the center and rear one. There are also 3 fixtures in the bedroom. One 18" and two 12" ones. I had elected to only run one of the 12's and the 18 as that was way more than enough light. I did not mention the Bathroom or the "hallway". I have decided to DO THEM as well as the 18" also.... Bottom line....I did some research....and also did some replacing.....so this is MY experience and MY thoughts....others will differ and that is what makes us unique. I am quite capable of rewiring or replacing or removing the fixtures or the ballasts and installing the LED Arrays. However, I had also done a major project for the church and learned some things from the Duke Energy experts....as well as a buddy who came across an interesting LED feature....not on ALL LED tubes, but more common now than before. If you have 120 VAC Fluorescent fixtures and have had them for a while, odds are, you MIGHT have had to install a ballast. I have installed 4 ballasts at home as I do not want to have to rehang or find an equivalent fixture....the DW LOVES the kitchen one....so nurse it along. With the newer technology LED Tubes, you can USE your existing Ballast....OR you can wire around it and feed the LED's 120 VAC line voltage. If you google "remove ballast for LED conversion", you will find many articles....all are simple and you can actually follow the color codes if you don't quite understand the schematic. SO, that will be my NEXT replacement.....LED's running off Line Voltage at home. OK....back on track. There are TWO types of LED's for RV/Marine. One is advertised as a 12 VDC or Ballast type. From what I read on Amazon, the light output from 12 VDC is reduced. The ratings were not that good. I read NO MORE and passed on this option. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH if that if your cup of tea. Then, I found that the GE 12" tubes were priced at Lowes at the same or cheaper than Amazon and they are BULK Shipped and not thrown into a box and banged all over the country. So, I bought 4 of them. I decided to use the TWO 12" fixtures in the Bedroom and then switch off the 18" one. We have the "Daylight" tubes....some original and some from 2017. The ones that I put in are "adjustable" in that you have THREE different temperatures....they come as COOL WHITE...which matches the LED's that I used when I converted the puck and socket lights to LED many years ago. The map lights are the only incandescent and I can't get the cover off.... I was PLEASANTLY surprised.....the two (2 bulb) 12 LED fixtures with Cool White put out MORE than a "smidge" (subjectively) than the single 18" and the one 12" (both are 2 tube fixtures). DW is elated. MORE light....and she is now moving from the OMG, I want daylight to "Hey, CW is cool". Here is the link to the Lowes 12" tube that I bought. They popped in easily and are starting instantly....so no issues.... BTW....the Lowe's price on the Fluorescent is $9 and the LED is only $13.... I think that the LED tubes for our MH used to be about twice that....but I might be wrong.... I am now saving 4 Amp Hours of my batteries....WOO HOO!....every little bit helps.... https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Color-Correct-Technology-8-Watt-EQ-12-in-Daylight-Linear-LED-Tube-Light-Bulb/5000762909 I think, from watching, that the old ballasts will do an INSTANT start on the new LED's and there is certainly NO Hesitation. BTW.... I GOOFED. I was checking the "switch" on a tube and realized there is a TOP and a BOTTOM to the tube....there is a label on the tube, but I failed to turn them all UP. WOW....with all of them turned DOWN and shining....it is MUCH brighter. Pay attention to the label side and it should go UP. Hope this is of interest....

Chuck, A MOOT point, but I thought the IOTA-50R had two DPDT relays or solenoids. One for HOT and one for Neutral. Check the photo and see if that is correct.

Maybe I was unclear....what I meant was that the wiring diagram was "Similar" to how Monaco wired the Dynasties for use of a Sub Panel. I never understood that before and have helped folks, on site, work on theirs, but until Dr. Frank explained it yesterday, it was fuzzy. What I tried to say is that the logic used in the WIndsor for the single, split output feed, was the same logic, to a certain extent, on the Dynasties....except they used a different Magnum from the run of the mill ones. Did NOT mean to imply that the last Windsors had or were set up for dual inverters.... I learned a LOT and will get Dr. Frank to put the Windsor Print in the files....if it is not already there.

Thanks to WaterSkier_1 and Dr. Frank and Richard and all those that chimed in. As I SAID, I can offer some theories but, as Dr. Frank says, we are MORE familiar with our own rigs.... So HERE GOES..... The Print was the KEY. Thanks to WaterSkier_1. The Windsor matches, sort of, the way that Monaco did the 2008 Dynasties.....except they have TWO, I think, Inverters. The Trace is different than what we Magnum folks expect to see and the Subpanel complicates it. BUT, the PRINT resolves in my mind, what happened. The ISSUE WAS, I think, the IOTA. The first clue was the "30" amp light. When the Intellitec EMS did not read 230 VAC between Line 1 and Line 2, then it defaults to 30 amp service as it assumes, and rightly so, that there is NOT two sides of 50 Amp service....Line 1 (Black) and Line 2 (Red). The IOTA had dropped a LEG or a Line. Doesn't matter WHICH, it only had ONE 115 VAC service.....so that Intellitec EMS worked. NOW....That explains a LOT. If you look at the print that WaterSkier_1 supplied, then the TWO Breakers on the Main Panel (the Intellitec) NOW make sense. The Trace requires TWO separate INPUT AC inputs....which is what the Magnums require on the Dynasties.... Look at the print again. There are TWO OUTPUTS to the Subpanel. That Subpanel, I THINK, is internally divided.... The Inverter 1 input powers Breakers 1 - 4. The Inverter 2 Input powers Breakers 5 - 7...as there is NO Breaker 8. The original symptoms were that the FRONT GFCI and the Microwave were out. SO, when the IOTA took out Line 2....which then became Inverter 2, that killed that. Replace the IOTA with a good ATS and BINGO....all is well. NOW, at least to me, it makes sense. I also learned a LOT about the Subpanels used in the older MH and see why Monaco switched to Magnums.....for the lower end. They are either 2000 Watt or 2800 Watt (with a Res Refer). Dr. Frank's TWO Magnums have TWO incoming circuits....and then TWO outgoing. What makes his really UNIQUE is that there the Inverted power is one one side of the subpanel and the NON Inverter (goes dead when on Inverting) circuit are NOT battery powered..... OK....this, I think, sums it up....but if anyone has any other pertinent comments....or corrections....please chime in. NOW>>>>We Moderators always try to teach or at least make sure that folks learn and what is posted is correct. I AM SUMMING UP A "SUGGESTED" To DO list for LJPierce_ELY.....the original poster. You have, I think, learned a lot.....BUT, if you are a full timer and 100% DEPENDENT on your MH as your HOME....then, you need to be aware and, when convenient, address the following.... 1. Consider a Surge Suppressor (HW50C) as UPSTREAM Protection for your NEW ATS....as well as all the electronics and appliances on board. IF you have a bad pedestal or a circuit problem and LOSE the Neutral or have a FLOATING NEUTRAL (Google that), then you can do several THOU$AND$ of $$ Damage. We have had folks that hit $15K....they lost all the electric appliances.... THE HW50C protects you from that plus it also takes care and protects you from high and low voltages and such. IT protects the MH's Life's Blood....the POWER. I can NOT overemphasize this. 2. Purchase a SPARE Square D GFCI breaker and have it on hand. These go bad....or at least Fred White and many others had issues with them. You need to get the MODEL number off the one in use.... 3. Plan a Preventative Maintenance session and TIGHTEN ALL THE LUGS on the Main Panel and the Subpanel. Vibration from driving is your enemy. Loose connection will heat up and potentially cause a fire. This is common sense....you will be FINE for the next 5 years or so....AFTER YOU DO THIS... 4. If you did NOT USE LOCTITE GREEN on the lugs on the new ATS, then you will need to open it up and RETIGHTEN in 3 - 6 months.....THIS TIME USE LOCTITE as they will vibrate loose. This is NOT the fault of any ATS, it is just the fact that when you drive, the ATS's screws will come loose. ONCE RETIGHTENED WITH LOCTITE GREEN ON THEM, they should be good for a LONG TIME.... I have over 10 years and 50K on mine....with the Loctite and STILL TIGHT....but I check them... 5. When you do the PM on the Brown EMS Panel, do the reset to make sure it is "healthy" 6. Order a spare Camco plug and the Dow potting (sealing) compound. At the age of your plug, you will, I predict, eventually need it. MANY folks carry such.... OK.....GOT ALL THAT....now, here is ONE THING that we all learned at the GATHERING.... On the 5 BUTTON AC/Heat Thermostat, it is BETTER to use the MODE button and turn OFF each zone, rather than the slide switch at the bottom. These switches go out....so the less you use the slide switch, the better... GOOD LUCK....

I posted a schematic in one of the posts. The IOTA is plainly marked when you take off the cover. Just follow the wiring. I am really on the fence about this. I have LOST the flow and train of thought....so I went back... FIRST....you probably DO have a BAD ATS. The key is the AC now working. The AC's are NOT part of the INVERTER circuit. Line 2 or the RED leg is GONE. That is why you do NOT have an AC. That I can reliably SAY IS A FACT. The fact that the Genny is not switching is also a good sign. WHILE you are changing out the IOTA, do the RESET of the EMS (remove the brown panel). YOU NEED TO DO THIS TO GET A FRESH START. NOW....for the BAD NEWS..... This is NOT gonna, IMHO, fix your Microwave and other power issues. The Inverter is being FED off Line 1 (from the BROWN Panel). It is SPLIT into TWO legs (YES....MONACO was STUPID....the LINE 1 and LINE 2 are confusing). UNLESS you have TWO inverters, then as long as you have SOME inverter power, then that single Line 1 coming into the INVTERTER is OK....but what has happened is that you do NOT have TWO OUTPUTS.... NOW if you DO have TWO TRACE INVERTERS....then if one leg to them is DEAD....then YES....the new ATS will fix that. Put in the SWITCH. You will restore your AC and the Genny should work. BUT, don't hold your breath on the rest. NOW>>>>>>>> READ THIS CAREFULLY..... AFTER you install the IOTA, KILL THE MAIN PANEL 50 AMP BREAKERS...... THEN do the Voltage Testing that I outlined. Test the INCOMING (SHORE) and the OUTGOING (Panel or Load). IF you have a BAD Pedestal or connections......like a FLOATING NEUTRAL, then you will damage or do MORE damage. You MUST have the proper voltages on the SHORE and the PANEL. Read one of my posts. Line 1 to Line 2 - 230 VAC Line 1 to Neutral (white) and then L1 to Ground should be 115 VAC Same for Line 2 (red) to Neutral and Ground. There should be ZERO Voltage from Neutral to GROUND....if you have a few millivolts, that is a meter "error"....but close to zero. IF you do not get the 115 VAC to BOTH Neutral and Ground from Line 1 and Line 2, then STOP....you will cause more issues. Sorry if this is confusing....but until you VERIFY the incoming power through the NEW ATS....then do NOT turn ON the main breaker....

Chuck, Need your help on a 2002 Windsor. Please go here....and read and assist if you can... Thanks,

I started this and QUIT.... Richard and WaterSkier....HELP ME OUT WITH THIS and COMMENT... First, The Gray Panel is a SUB Panel....as pointed out. The main power comes in from the BROWN PANEL. IF you have successfully measure voltages with the FLUKE....I am going to have you do some MORE... POWER OFF (SHORE and GENNY TRIPPED and Solar covered). Remove the covers from the IOTA, the BROWN (EMS) and GRAY (Sub). Follow my post and RESET THE EMS. THAT IS THE FIRST THING.... NOW.....STOP and tighten every lug or screw you see inside the IOTA, Brown and Gray. LOOK FOR HOT SPOTS OR BURNS......this is PM....and you need to do it..... Next....put power back on from SHORE.... ANY CHANGE? WHAT is the EMS Reading? HOPE THAT FIXES IT....but we need to KNOW what is going on now. IF NOT....then we need voltage measurements the following IOTA INCOMING (Shore) line IOTA OUTGOING (Panel or LOAD) Line MAIN incoming LUGS to the 50 Amp Breakers Measure and let us know... Line 1 Black - Line 2 Red should be 230 VAC Line 1 Black - Neutral White as well as to Ground Should be 115 VAC Line 2 Red to Neutral and Ground....see above. should be 115 VAC. Neutral to GROUND - Should be ZERO. OK....POINTS that baffle me....but opinions. I THINK you will see there there is NO WIRE connected to the Line 2 Breaker in the Brown Panel. This MIGHT have been a spare for use with TWO Inverters. IF YOU ONLY HAVE ONE....then the Line 1 Inverter breaker is going to the TRACE.. If you have something on the Line 2 Breaker, then GOD ONLY KNOWS.... Richard and WaterSkier.....AGAIN....I am Baffled by the oversized Sub Panel. There are ONLY TWO 115 Vac Circuits from the TRACE....UNLESS HE GOT TWO TRACES? ALL....The age of the GFCI breakers, based on Fred White (our deceased WIndsor expert) is PROBABLY any issue. Fred had to replace his and finally got mad and pulled them out. The GFCI Receptacles go BAd...DON'T know about the breakers....but I have had to replace SD GFCI breakers at home...but the were constantly TRIPPING.... I will reach out to Chuck, another Windsor expert..... BUT....7 CIRCUITS OK....here goes.....pure speculation... Breaker 2. AHA....that means that ONE of the TWO Trace outputs is WORKING..... Breaker 3. BEATS ME....With the cover OFF....does it have an outgoing or branch circuit....or it is JUST A SPARE with nothing. YOU TELL US! Breaker 5. MY GUESS....there is a TRACE ISSUE...or MAYBE...a LOOSE WIRE in the panel. IF Monaco did this like MOST OTHER COACHES....they took the Second 115 Line from the TRACE and split it. One side went to Breaker 5....which is the Microwave. No incoming power....no juice.... The OTHER side (split feed) went to Breaker 7. They protected the Kitchen outlets, per code. SOOOOOO IF you only have ONE output or one line working from the TRACE, it is the REAR. That would explain Breaker 2. Next up....Breaker 6. This is a NON INVERTER circuit....it goes to OUTLETS that are NOT powered when the Inverter is ON. They will work with the GENNY, obviously. You did NOT mention the icemaker....Does the Refer Outlet in the back of the refer area have POWER to the Icemaker or not. That's about as FAR as I can go with what I know....or even suspect. CONCLUSIONS? more like SWAG or Theories. The EMS got funky. There was some sort of blip. The EMS clock needs to be RESET per the procedure....so that you are showing FULL (50 A) power. IF that is STILL bad and the incoming voltages are OK, then call M M RV Electronics in Ohio City, Ohio. They are our experts. They are the Intellitec Tech Support. You MAY have an issue with the REMOTE (they go bad) or the board itself.....That is way past me... SECOND....BUT, even IF you had a blip or even if you only have ONE LEG (Line 1) from the IOTA....then the Inverter should work. There is ONLY ONE 115 VAC Incoming LINE. The ATS inside the TRACE put out TWO 115 VAC lines. Basically, you have a 30 Amp INPUT....and you get TWO 15 Amp Outputs. You are Loosing or MISSING that leg. Internal to the TRACE? NO IDEA. BUT, you CAN start to measure voltages in side the panels... You MAY find that you have SPARE Breakers doing NOTHING let us know........

We, or at least me, does NOT remember reading anything about the Progressive Dynamics ATS. However, we have never had anyone make a complaint or have an issue with an ESCO Product. That is your call. Personally, I would go with the LPT50BRD. That is the number one switch stocked at most large RV Shops... The customer service and tech support from ESCO are impeccable.... NOW....you MIGHT ought to consider installing the Progressive Industries HW50C. If you do it now, then you will have an upstream (it does on the LINE or the SHORE input....PRIOR to the ATS....Surge Suppressor as well as a "LINE MONITOR" that checks for all sorts of power conditions and SHUTS DOWN before you blow something up. If you put in the ESCO (or any NEW ATS), you will have to PULL the SHORE line from the NEW ATS and run it to the HW50C....and run a short jumper or connector to the new ATS. It is YOUR call....but most here have surge protection or should....and the two component system is reliable and field servicable

OK....since you asked.....Amazon is your friend.... I have done this and several members have followed suit. You will end up with an "end" that is as good or better than the molded one. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-PowerGrip-Replacement-Transform-55255/dp/B000PGVZ30/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=camco+50+amp+plug&qid=1628195672&s=automotive&sr=1-3 Use Camco 55255 in the Amazon search if the link does not work. $18.66 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195UWAHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Use Dow Corning 4 Electrical Insulating Compound. $22,91. THERE you have it. Cut off the old end. strip the wires to mate up. The Black and Red are not that critical, but to follow NEC, the BLACK (Line 1) is on the LEFT....if you are looking from the back of the plug. In other words, when you insert the plug, the blade on the LEFT SIDE will be BLACK (Line 1) and the blade on the RIGHT will be RED (Line 2). Ground will be at the TOP and the Neutral (White) will be the bottom blade. See Figure 7 in the following PDF http://www.billgehr.com/images/MH_2015-09_Power_Trip_101.pdf After you cut and strip and get the wires CLEAN and in the terminals, it is important to tighten properly. Use a good "hand filling" screwdriver handle. Wrap a mechanics shop towel of a dry wash cloth around the handle....say TWO thicknesses. THEN, tighten with all your MIGHT. An adult male with average grip strength will get the 35 - 40 inch pounds of torque. NOW....with that done.....wiggle the outer jacket of the cord and sort of flex it or move it around. That will take the strain off the fittings. REPEAT the TORQUING.....same deal with the wrapped screwdriver handle. Criss Cross the pattern and do it ONE MORE TIME... NOW, you fill the cavity with the Dow so that you totally encapsulate the wiring and terminals. DO NOT USE CHEAP SILICONE....use the DOW... Once it cures, you are GOOD TO GO.... I had an OPEN Neutral once.....a small bump, like a cellphone falling on the plug from a foot or so was enough to dislodge the crimped Neutral. THAT IS IS.....If your shore line is damaged.....DO THIS FIRST.....then follow the rest....a CHEAP investment.... Good Luck...

OK....now this is getting a bit MORE complicated. You can NOT JUST INSPECT the line cord. You have to do a circuit test with a VOM on it. A qualified electrician or an owner with basic skill sets can do this. Make sure that if you do this, you TOTALLY understand.... The problem is that some of the Monaco supplied line cords have been know to have issues....USUALLY and HOPEFULLY...>TYPICALLY > on the PLUG END. I have NO IDEA and the Windsor owners will have to chime in HOW the cord is connected to the MH or service. Mine has a reel with power strips. The output or the Pigtail from the reel assembly goes to a Junction Box. Then the main FEED or the power line to the ATS will be coming out. SO....here is what I would do.... Disconnect power and pull the cover off the ATS. You will see the terminals marked LINE or CORD or POWER....This is where you will take your measurements. Plug in the shore line.....measure as follows....on the FOUR terminals marked as Line or Cord or Shore or Power IN... Line 1 (Black) to Line 2 (Red) SHOULD be around 230 Volts.... Line 1 to Neutral (White) should be around 115 Volts. Line 2 (Red) to Neutral will be close to the same or around 115 Volts....it could be as high as 125, so that is OK... Line 1 (Black) to GROUND (Bare or GREEN) should be around 115 Volts... Line 2 (Red) to Neutral should be the same....see above. Neutral (White) to GROUND (Bare or GREEN) should be ZERO....or very if any voltage. IF THIS IS HIGHER.....then there is a problem.... If you are OK here, then your incoming power is OK....if NOT....then you need to locate the Junction Box where the Reel (if you have one) or the POWER Cord is connected to the MH. TURN OFF THE POWER, OPEN IT and check there..... OK....COMMENT ON THE TRACE... All I posted is what is PUBLISHED. TRACE says there is a Replaceable 30 Amp SLO-BLO fuse inside. There is, per their schematic, ANOTHER FUSE...which they say if it has BLOWN....you got ISSUES. I have NO IDEA how Monaco installed or how accessible or "NOT" the Trace is. THIS IS IMPORTANT SO YOU NEED TO KNOW. The SHORE and the GENNY are INPUTS to the ATS. The ATS sends power to the MAIN PANEL. The Main Panel has a 30 Amp breaker (assuming Monaco wired it that way). This provides power to to the TRACE. The TRACE has a Printed Circuit Board and maybe a contactor or relay. That works the SAME as the ATS. If there is INCOMING POWER, then the contacts are CLOSED and the 115 VAC from the 30 Amp breaker is SPLIT into two circuits. Microwave and House. If there is NO SHORE or NO GENNY, then the Trace switches to INVERTER and then supplies inverted power to the TRACE ATS and you have power. IF the Board or the Contactor are the problem or the contacts are pitted or whatever, then THERE IS THE ISSUE. BUT, if the SLO BLO Fuse has been BLOWN.....then replacing the FUSE should fix it. If it BLOWS again, then there are or could be issues. Hope this helps.... Larry, You are correct. See the POST BELOW.... IF it is a bad "SHORE", then 90% or MORE of the reported failures are the PLUG. That is easily replaced. I can give the PN and how....IF THAT IS THE ISSUE....

COUPLE OF THINGS....some I KNOW.....for a FACT....and some that I suspect... First... disconnect the shore power. TRIP OFF the Circuit breaker on the Genny (on the Genny's console). If you have a solar panel, then disconnect or the simplest is to put a quilt or tarp or cover on it. Remove the cover (brown?) on your Intellitec Main Circuit Breaker Panel. Look on the RIGHT side. There is a printed circuit board. There are maybe 3 pigtails that you can easily pull off. There will be a small mini fuse. Memory says 5 amps....but it may be lower like 3 but NOT more than 10. This is the BRAIN for your Intellitec system. One you pull that....let it sit for a minute. There are TIMES that you get some stray currents and it messes up the "chip's clock". Powering down and doing a restart often fixes it. You have a "strange" reading on your system....and I will comment on that... IMPORTANT....NOW, you can see all the terminal connections for the power. TIGHTEN EVERY LUG or TERMINAL in the panel. That includes the GROUNDS, the NEUTRAL (WHITE) and the Leads to EACH BREAKER and the MAIN BREAKER. Look for evidence of oxidation or discoloration. If there is ANY, then any qualified electrician can help you..... BTW, memory, and we lost our Windsor expert, says that you have GFCI Breakers in the Main Panel....and NOT a receptical. I will leave it to the Winsdor experts to pop in here.....NOW for the theory and ALSO the final troubleshooting steps.... The Intellitec monitors the Voltage as well as the "mode" of the Genny. I forget exactly HOW this works, but here is the original logic. When you plug into a 30 amp source (pedestal) it is supposed to be only one side of a 220 VAC service. YES, we do NOT use 230 VAC....but when there is a 50 Amp Dual Pole breaker, you have 50 amps of power on Line 1 as well as Line 2....or in effect a total of 100 amps of service. When you plug into a properly wired 30 amp circuit, then you only have Line 1....there is NO Line 2. There will only be 30 amps of service. The Intellitec board reads Line 1 and Line 1. IF there is 230 VAC, then IT KNOWS....you have 50 amp service. If you only have 30 amps, there is NO voltage between Line 1 and Line 2. SO, then the 30 amp light will come on. it is up to YOU, the owner to determine if it is a 20 amp or 30 amp service and push the button to toggle. The DEFAULT IS 30 as that is what will be the situation 99% of the time. OK>>>>GOT ALL THAT? NOW....when the Genny is running, there is a signal that goes to the Intellitec panel. GENNY ON means that you are SUPPOSED to have enough power NOT TO OVERLOAD. BUT, enterprising folks that plug in heaters don't know that. Bottom line, you only have 35 amps (memory) on Line 1 and Line 2. The 8KW Onan's are protected that way. NOW, that may be 30, again memory. BUT, it is NOT 230 VAC. It is TWO lines of 30 (35?). IF you have an IOTA, then YES, you can, assuming you have the skill set, BYPASS it....and put jumpers from the SHORE to the LOAD (Circuit Breaker) side. Technically, you can use a #10 wire for that....if you look at the internal wiring....the leads to the relays are smaller. BUT>>>>READ ON....DO NOT MESS WITH THE INTELLITEC.....do NOT reconnect....do a simple trouble shooting of the Inverter....it is in your manual. I am NOT convinced that you need to do that.....HERE IS THE REST of the story.. Your TRACE is wired like the Magnums, which most folks have. However, it does NOT (I pulled your manual) have the TWO pin style EXTERNAL 20 Amp Breakers. BUT....on page 16 or so of the manual, there is a NOTE. There is an INTERNAL FUSE....it is a SLOW BLOW. Trace says there is a SPARE ONE inside the unit. WITH THE POWER OFF....and the INVERTER Circuit Breaker (30 Amp) OFF..... I would change out that fuse. You can buy another one or call trace and get a part number. THAT MAY be the issue....or may not. At least you have a GOOD fuse in place.... OK....now start to put things back together....carefully.... Reconnect the pigtails to the INTELLITEC Board. Replace the Fuse. Then PLUG IN to shore. IF you TRACE has a SNAP SWITCH, it should be OFF. If it is push or spring loaded one....then turn it OFF after you have power. Let it SIT...say a minute. The Trace will do a self diagnostics when you start it up by turning it on. Look at the lights and read the manual. There COULD be one other ISSUE.... Your Trace inverter has gone bad. The NORMAL mode for the inverter is to "transfer" power internally when you are on SHORE. Magnum says that the main boards eventually fail. Might be the same for Trace. After you do all your testing, if you still have issues, you COULD bypass the IOTA as I commented on. IF that does NOT cure it, assuming all the circuit breakers are OK, then problem is in the TRACE.. One FINAL STRAW OF DESPERATION.....TRACE warns about INTEFERENCE.....read the last section. If you still have Fluorescent fixtures, open them up and remove the tubes....DOUBTFUL...but they have interfered with electronics before....

I am pretty sure on my memory of the prices....as I would have made the same decision.... A remanufactured (Cummins Certified) ECM was above $1000.... Thanks.....now the OP will have to determine WHAT to do. As an INSIGHT for the OP.... My buddy drove the MH from a dealer a little further south late one afternoon. He had it stored and was having some "coach" work done there. Had NO issues driving it maybe a few hours. Then camped ON in Orlando and BINGO....it would NOT start or run the next day. Cummins sent out a mobile tech and he pronounce the ECM DOA. They called the last dealer in NC that had serviced it... Was past a year or so and the dealer did not, per Cummins Protocols, have a copy of the ECM program in their files. BUMMER>>> He called our buddy, who was the GM for a HR dealership for 20 odd years. First words were....Call Tom. Fortunately, our Mr. Wizard of the Parts List had a comp of a similar unit. The Cummins Tech spoke to both myself and Frank. He said he could "Reinstall" the Engine Management protocols, but it would be "Guess and BY GOLLY" as to the interface with Monaco's additions such as the Cruise and God only knows what else. Frank, I think, spent more time with him... Bottom line. The ECM download worked like a charm. The Cummins tech did some tweaking as there were some slight differences in the engine management routines....but the Monaco supplied interfaces, like the TCM and Cruise and VIP wheel and such worked great. WOW....what a relief.... SO....to the OP....MAKE SURE that you have, ON YOUR COMPUTER, a copy of the ECM....if it FAILS....it is a fiasco..... Just a word from the wise and also from one that has had to help a buddy recover from such....

Ron, If it was the ECM, then the cost of a "Cummins Remanufactured" ECM in 2020 was around $1000 - $1200 and if it was a "plug and play", then the labor should have been around $400 - $500. A buddy had one fail and Frank McElroy provided the backup program. It was done in Orlando and the bill was around $2100. If he had opted for a NEW ECM would have increased to over $3000 If you can pick your brain or perhaps the DW (they remember $$ for MH....trust me), then that might be of benefit....assuming you have no issues with discussing $$. If so....then disregard this.... Thanks.

Ron, If you can access your records or maybe contact the dealership, knowing the PN and the Board description would be quite beneficial.... Thanks...

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/727384/Iota-Its-50r.html?page=2#manual The IOTA 50R, when you remove the cover, will have a GROUND tab or lug on the LEFT SIDE... The wiring is subdivided as follows. There will be FOUR terminals per section. HOT L1 BLACK; NEUTRAL WHITE; HOT L2 RED and GROUND GREEN. You MUST follow that convention when you reinstall.... The three sections, left to right, are.. GENERATOR SHORE or POWER or LINE CORD LOAD OR MAIN PANEL OR CIRCUIT BREAKER https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1731127/Esco-Lpt50brd.html?page=2#manual The ESCO LPT50BRD has three main leads or the cables in a different order.... LEFT to RIGHT, they are LOAD or MAIN or CIRCUIT BREAKER PANEL GENERATOR SHORE OR POWER OR LINE CORD SO....you have to do a little tugging and pulling and then rearrange the cables. The order of the terminals is different WHITE - Neutral HOT TWO (Line 2) RED HOT ONE (Line 1) Black NOW....on the RIGHT side of the box, NOT SHOWN in the manual, but it is on AMAZON.....there is a GROUND TERMINAL BLOCK. Therefore, you have to strip back the outside jacket, probably 10" or so, and then you run the THREE GROUNDS to that terminal block. You will probably have to cut off the three insulated leads and restrip them to get them to fit inside. This was NOT a major job. I used masking tape to label each of the three lead or the jacketed ones. THEN, you follow the convention of Line 1 is BLACK; Line 2 is RED and Neutral is WHITE and the Bare is GROUND (or it would have been GREEN). Here is the Amazon link which has a better photo of the interior.... https://www.amazon.com/Elkhart-LPT50BRD-Automatic-Transfer-Switch/dp/B007HS0ONG/ref=asc_df_B007HS0ONG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312146506965&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6836412353768694194&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009731&hvtargid=pla-491530624460&psc=1 Esco also has a very good trouble shooting manual that explains things. NOTE....I DID NOT CHANGE ANY SETTINGS OR DO ANYTHING. The LPT50BRD comes set up almost exactly like the IOTA 50R. Richard Smith and the older folks like me can go on for HOURS about how IOTA or TODD was developed and then TODD when broke....and how IOTA came into being and how LYGHT was actually the Techie folks....and that LYGHT design is what ESCO bought and is marketing.... If you opt to put in the HW50C, you need about 2 ft of Service Entrance Cable (jacketed or a "Romex" cable). It has THREE Stranded #6 Copper insulated conductors and a #10 Ground. SOME Monacos used a #6 or maybe a #8 Ground....and some just had the #10 Ground. The #10 Bare meets code....so buy this....Home Depot and Lowes sells it. You will need about 2 1/2 Ft of LiquiTite or SealTite flexible 3/4" conduit. You will need to purchase TWO 3/4" fittings in a STRAIGHT and a 90 Deg....so you have flexibility. You will also, unless Progressive has changed, need adapters. These are just large Fender Washers. The OD is 1 1/2" and the ID is 3/4". These washers are for the inside of the HW50C so that the 3/4" fitting work....very easy.... Good Luck.... DO NOT FORGET THE GREEN LOCTITE.....

Folks....need to bring up a little history here. The original post was a 2002 model. I have NO IDEA when Monaco started using the IOTA 50R, but there were so many complaints and such that eventually there was a NHTSA recall. There were at least 5 or maybe MORE RV manufacturers that elected to do the voluntary recall. IOTA has NEVER accepted responsibility for the faulty switch. Monaco went TU or BANKRUPT in 2009. They entered receivership. Therefore the original installation or manufacturer, Monaco, no longer existed. In come Navastar. All the MH's that they manufactured or sold WERE RECALLED....or were supposed to be. Those of us (including the 2002 Winsdor) are "ORPHANS" or that is what the NHTSA calls us. We have NO PARENTS or DADDY. We are on our own. Navastar replaced all the ones that they sold. Bottom line....It matters NOT if REV can find any info or such. The IOTA Recall was a BLANKET for the 50R switch....going back to the first one....and IOTA says that it is a MAINTENANCE or OWNER or USER responsibility to check monthly the condition of the screws and it is the USER's responsibility to tighten them. PROBLEM IS.... The switches rattle and shake loose. The terminals overheat. Folks have tried to "fix them" and also Loctite them.....it has not been successful.....now that is like saying is you are in the path of a Tornado, your house will be destroyed. Obviously the movement and the up and down and such will leave houses unscathed compared to cleaning a house next door to the slab. These switches FAIL. They are a FIRE hazard. They will let you down. It was ONLY the manufacturers that did the recall....NOT IOTA. Rev probably has very little info on them....we, the Monacoer's crowd....know more about them from personal and group use than the Rev folks know.... They can pull the NHTSA bulletin....and then say.....we don't have ANY liability for an MH NOT MADE by us....so therefore, the 2010 and newer models were RECALLED by Navastar after most of the Industry got spooky and with the Norcold fires....NO ONE WANTS TO BE NAMED IN A LAWSUIT OVER A RV FIRE. Bottom line....if it looks OK and there are no charred terminals or melted plastic and it is tight....then MAYBE it is OK. We had several Camelot owners who were meticulous and tightened the terminals....and then one night.....SMOKE and BURNING SMELL. Fortunately, the power was killed, but the IOTA 50R was charred and failed. As a SIDE NOTE, I talked to ESCO and they say....TIGHTEN THE SCREWS EVERY MONTH. RIGHT..... I talked to some electrical contractors and also did some searching and contacted Loctite. The Loctite Green is rated for Electrical connections.....the Blue is for larger screws as is the Red....which is permanent. We have had many electrical folks that cringe or say....NEVER LOCTITE a connection. That is FINE for a home. BUT....in a MH.....think a Mag 4.5 as you drive. I used Loctite Green on my ATS and also on the HW50C and have checked them and they are tight. The layman's way to make sure that you hit the 35 - 40 Inch Pounds of Torque required for the connection is this. Use a good fitting or hand filling screwdriver. IOTA used #2 Sq Drive lugs.....that is good... BUT, ESCO uses a flat blade recess. Put a shop towel (Mechanic's red or blue rag) around the screwdriver handle.....maybe two thicknesses. Then after they are ALL tight.....go back over and use all the muscle or hand strength that you have. I was responsible for QC aqnd a Gage Lab in a former job and we had very expensive Torque Measuring equipment or certification. So, I played around in there and figured out that my "limit" was around 40 Inch pounds using a hand held screwdriver or nut driver..... I also helped the adjustable pedal manufacturer that had to recall all of our pedals and put in a brace or bracket. Their engineers had a procedure that no tech could follow or understand and you needed a $250 inch pound wrench. I suggested the screwdriver technique and they ran studies and BINGO....they adopted the procedure. Hope this explains this.....the SWITCH for our orphan (pre bankruptcy) coaches are BAD and they are OUR responsibility......

I stand corrected. I did not know that the current production models of the SurgeGuard switches are field serviceable. As David says....one has to make the call on value and such. Obviously installing ONE unit would be easier (or less costly if you are paying for it rather than DIY)... The last prices that I saw for the LPT50BRD are now in the $225 range.... They were about $75 cheaper a few years ago. The HW50C has come down. They are in the $330 range. You need less than $20 of wiring and supplies to complete the installation... Been there....done that. I would suggest that one do a price comparison of the two SurgeGuards vs the combo of the ESCO and Progressive. If you don't have the Alladin or the interface system, then add in the cost of the remote monitor so that you are comparing apples to apples. Here are the specs on the HW50C for comparison Product Features: Over/Under Voltage Protection Open Ground, Open Neutral & Reverse Polarity Detection Accidental 240V Protection Miswired Pedestal Indication Surge Failure Indicator Amperage Meter Display Previous Error Code A/C Frequency Protection Time Delay (136 seconds) Adjustable Time Delay Thermally Protected Remote Display w/Scrolling Digital Display Field Serviceable UL Certified and Canadian Approved Lifetime Warranty Product Specs: Surge Protection: 5-Mode / 3,580J / 88,000A max current spike Response time: < 1 nanosecond (10⁻⁹ second) Ratings: 50A / 120V/240V / 12,000W Operating Temperatures: -40C to +105C Data Cable: 14' Product Dimensions: 9" W x 5" H x 4" D Link to the Operating Manual.... https://98fc35b2-8b52-49c0-9df1-33107348b2e7.filesusr.com/ugd/439d5a_7e98aaa6242a4c798b32f2164c8e591e.pdf NOW, there are choices.....and one has enough info to start down that path....BUT GET RID OF THE IOTA, otherwise, the conversation and decision making might have been a MOOT POINT..... OR, best sceneario.....you ain't got AC or Genny power when you are in Tuscon and it is 115 dF.....but your MH is NOT a toasted marshmallow....

Bill Groves and I had differing "Professional" opinions on WHICH ESCO to install. ESCO recommends that LPT50BRD when you call them. Many of the older Monacoers liked the es50-65n. I have been on this forum since March, 2009 as a moderator-owner-administrator. Bill and I would "joust" over electrical issues....and like most engineers, we had different opinions on the "Correct" way to do things. The LPT50BRD is the most commonly found ATS in RV Repair shops. We have never had a failure of that switch. It is based on a Lyght (sp?) design. It is a LOW Voltage switch in that it does NOT have a 120 VAC Control board. I installed mine right after the IOTA was recalled. It is an EASY swap. It has NEVER given me (or anybody for that matter) an issue. The ES50-65N was a switch that was used long ago and many folks loved it....especially our late founder, the "Colonel". We spent a LOT of bandwidth on the "Which is better". I talked to an ESCO design/field tech engineer that knew the history of the ES and the LPT switches . The main issue, and there were failures with the ES, was the AC Hum. If you are deaf as I am, then it is not a problem. Many of our members decided on the ES when the IOTA failed. Some were NOT happy as they and their spouses found the hum irritating. The hum is there....but where you sleep and where the ATS is located and the surrounding enclosure are the variables. More people, due to the age of the ES, have had failures and had to rebuild them. ESCO did (need to verify now) have parts available to repair them and many, including the Colonel had rebuilt them more than once. When the IOTA failure came about, it was a boon for ESCO as the LPT50BRD was the number one choice....for a "Simple" ATS. The field engineer and the tech support folks said that the long range plan was to discontinue the ES, but to keep a few parts in stock, and to migrate to the LPT. I do NOT know if they changed their marketing strategy. Without speaking ill of one of our beloved members, a qualified EE could make a case for one being superior....it is a matter of the "theoretical" interpretation of the specs. Our MH's are rated for 50 Amps and L1 and L2 have to be "Out of Phase". The constant swapping or the sinusoidal load on the neutral will always be a function of the L1 and L2 loads. For whatever reason, ESCO used 65 Amp for the neutral in that relay. The Main circuit board and the pedestals and the line cord and the interconecting wiring are only rated or protected for 50 Amps. YES... depending on the wiring chart and temperature, you will read a theoretical 55 and 65 Amp value. However, with an Out of Phase circuit (220 50 amp pedestal), the Neutral never exceeds the highest amp load of either L1 or L2..... NOW, many folks have upgraded and gone to the TRC switches. There are several varieties of them. The disadvantage of the TRC is that it is NOT field serviceable. So, in a simple ATS - NON SURGE PROTECTED - the LPT (or if you prefer) the ES is the favorite. NOW....the "Board's" consensus is that a MH should be protected and the hands down favorite is a combination of a good switch (LPT, of course) and the Progressive Industries HW50C. The Dynasty and higher Monaco models had TWO versions of a surge protected ATS. They were not cheap and there have been an occasional failure. FWIW, Progressive was a company formed by Tommy Fannelli, who was the chief field engineer for TRC. He proposed making the switches more robust and also field serviceable. When Progressive pooh-poohed the ideas, he finally left and he and his brother designed the Progressive Surge Protectors and put in the improvements that many customers had begged for....and it was a hit. I knew him as he was local and we talked and he also helped folks with issues. He sold the company...and retired. Bottom LINE....GET RID OF THE IOTA. Unless you want to spend MORE $$, then put in a combination of the HW50C and the LPT50BRD. The HW50C goes UPSTREAM of the ATS....regardless of which ATS you have as that protects the ATS. It does NOT go downstream. Tommy and I helped an individual that did that and he burned up the FIRST relay, ever, in the HW50C. The lower end MH's like I have, are an IN PHASE 8KW Genny. Therefore, the load on the Neutral is the SUM of L1 and L2. When you overload, even with the 35 Amp circuit breaker on an 8KW Onan, you are putting up to 70 amps on the neutral. The ES series is only rated for 65 and the HW50C for 50. And the relay in the HW50C failed. Tommy's guys replaced the parts locally when the member came through the area. We ALL keep learning. Final item....and I have posted this many times.....PAY ATTENTION TO THE WIRING OF THE IOTA and LABEL L1, L2 and Neutral. The ESCO switches as well as others MAY not be in the same order on the terminal strips. We have had folks that put in an LPT50 and use the same order....L1, L2 and Neutral. OPPS....the ESCO switch has two of them reversed. It has been so long, I forget. BUT, if you read the inside of the IOTA, you will see WHICH is the order. Typically L1 will be BLACK and L2 will be RED and White will be the Neutral. It does NOT matter if you swap L1 or L2.....but you can NOT hook up L1 to Neutral and have it work. YES, folks have done that and then...."It don't WORK". SO take photos....make sure you KNOW what the numbers are on the strip and WHERE they go.... Have at it.....GET RID OF THE ITOA before you have to grab a fire extinguisher or you are in the middle of the desert and no AC....

We have basically the same system. My workaround is this.... First....you have a 90 (on) & 120 (off) pressure switch. IF that switch is mounted LOW....as in below the level of the compressor motor, the switch will corrode as there is NO dryer on the circuit. It should be tethered (zip ties) about the compressor. Mine was broken from day ONE (I am the Original owner). OK....then it worked. I always used the Auto Level, but then I figured out....it starts from wherever you are and if you don't have enough travel, it takes forever. I usually drop or deflate using the four corners dump. Then I level manually. I rarely use the Auto Level. When I leave it in MANUAL and shut off the Valid system, the MH stays perfectly level. I have a small leak in the system.....and it is weather dependent. If it is cold or in the 50's, it will bleed off the rear first and then the front (braking). However, the MH is fine. I just let it run for a few minutes and everything is OK. I had a check valve leaking and had that replaced. The WABCO (dryer) in the rear had two leaks ( Soap test) in it. The kit was expensive....as there is a Front and a Rear section. It was cheaper to buy the whole new unit than pay a truck shop to rebuild mine. They did that and they also checked some of the lines. They do this ALL the time for OTR units. They had to reseat some of the fittings and cleaned up the system. That was about 6 years or more ago....next time they do the oil and such, I will have them do it again....this is an ONGOING problem. As LONG as my Valid works and I can level....and I have checked (both ways) the ZERO or LEVEL on it....then I will continue to manually level. Sometimes when I really have to "air up", the Aux compressor comes on to help out....so I know it works. BUT, I don't get that annoying tweaking....or middle of the night ON/OFF... My experiences....others may feel differently...but after 12 years, every little thing ain't gonna be new and I focus on the real issues....like making sure my braking system is in good repair.

Here is the preferred bypass....assuming you do not have ENOUGH slack to move one cable to the other side's stud and bond them together. If you use a longer one, you will run the risk of a small voltage drop. I actually pulled mine out and ran the "house" side straight off the Blue Seas House Cutoff Switch....way less clutter and if I ever had to replace a component or the Blue Seas switch, I would have had to removed the idiotic relay (Solenoid) anyway... NAPA P/N 781144 12" 4 Ga Cable with Eyes - Terminals NAPA - Salesmans Switch Jumper Cable

WOW....keep at it. This is great....

My logic....need to get BACK to basics. Drive the MH as it left the factory. Water is optional...and supposedly when you pick up a MH, it USED to be that you have a full fuel tank. If it wanders or pulls, then you have an issue that needs to be looked at by a professional. If you have a MINOR pulling or bias to one side, then swap the front tires....that is what Barry of Josams's recommends and it WORKS. THEN...start to load it up and get it weighed and also adjust the pressure on the Tag for even weight distribution. I don't have enough info to diagnose the problem. We have eliminated the first variable that occupied a lot of bandwidth....Steering stabilizer. Unless the OP takes it to a shop or has it towed, we have no info... BUT, if it has no or minor issues when he gets it back to how it left the factory....then odds are....it was a weight distribution or TP or Tax Axle or some combo thereof. He DID, and it got lost in all the racket, state that the pull switched after he loaded it from when he drove it home. I assumed that he did not get a ton of gear from the previous owner... As I said, I can not understand how a hydraulic issue would cause the pull to reverse sides....and the fact that cooling appears OK makes me thing this is a dead end rabbit hole.