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Tom Cherry

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Tom Cherry last won the day on February 6

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Required Information

  • FirstName
    Tom
  • Make
    Monaco
  • Model
    Camelot 40 QDP
  • Year
    2009

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  • Full Address (Optional)
    5301 Burning Oak Court, Raleigh, North Carolina, 27606
  • Phone (Optional)
    919-349-2171
  • Birthdate (Optional)
    06/05/1945

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  1. You will dig the hole deeper and wider for the money you will pour into the Norcold. The door gaskets are a known issue. You can NOT buy new gaskets....just the doors. $1200 or so. Many have had to do very strange and exotic and time consuming things. Some have had to find the buzzer or chime when the dreaded DOOR signal comes on. Same for the control board. Many have installed the Amish cooling kits. NO SMALL JOB. You are better off to just pull a window and put in a Samsung. YES....getting it in the door is a PITA. Some have had to pad the dash and such. The techs that did mine popped
  2. Your pictures are great. All I can say is this. I was warned by P. J. McCants, who was one of our go to tech guys in Elkhart to "CHECK" before you installed any plates and I have given Chris this feed back. I have three sets of custom plates that Chris made up for me and I did all the work and Chris' products are top quality. What WAS not clear and I failed to take that into account, was that there was no adjustment on my wardrobe slide. It has plastic, NON ADJUSTABLE, rollers and yours looks like it might be the same....no adjustment....just lock it down.... So whatever piece of the
  3. make sure that you do not have an issues with crown molding or such along the top of the slide. If that slide has adjustable rollers, you may have to drop them down. I installed the plates where the rollers were fixed and just small plastic ones. I had to pull the top crown molding or the piece where the slide runs under and take off about 1/4". I say that as I put the plates on and then took a LONG trip I actually had hand sand and add some clearance in the field. Eventually, even though is was a lot better, the inference or friction of the top of the slide killed one of the cables and it had
  4. You do great work. But don't understand you last post and your pictures. The IOTA 50R is the fire hazard ATS. It was recalled by many manufactures and it has stranded folks and caught fire. Your pictures show it. You also show, in pervious pictures, a Surge Guard device. Can't tell from the print and such if that is your NEW ATS. The RV shops usually (or the big ones) install an ESCO LPT50BRD. That is a a PLAIN and simple and robust ATS. Folks here usually run a Progressive HW50C upstream (do NOT PUT IT DOWNSTREAM) of the ATS. It is field serviceable. As to the GFCI.
  5. The other option for the Valid, and possibly the HWH, look under the Right FR area (behind or in front of the step well) where the compressor is. You will see a Switch. If you can stick your head up and under the body, it is easy to see and easy to access. Typically, Monaco used the stock Viair switch. It has two solderless terminals so you pull one and bingo....there is no power going to the compressor. Here is what the Valid switch looks like. It is an ON @90 and OFF @120 PSI switch....simple. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PH80PI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&ps
  6. These breakers are actually standard breakers, the more I dig and also think (MH is in storage). Read the first couple of pages of the PDF. The power is actually switched from two relays, so there is not an "Auxillary" trip, but just a load shedding relay. Memory also tells me that folks have had issues with the PCB and tried to find replacement relays (SMD not plug ins). So, basically, the Breakers are just THAT....plain old garden variety CB....there MAY be some special testing or design or designation that went into them. Magnum specifies a certain brand & model of GFCI outlets
  7. I replied but, you raise an interesting QUESTION. The EMS controls the "Innards" of the Circuit Breaker. It does NOT "Trip or lever actuate" the breaker....otherwise, one would hear the constant snapping or clicking. IT MIGHT BE GOOD if the OP provided more info. I TOO, assumed that all the breakers were Physically Tripped and he had to reset or turn them back on. In over 13 years and almost two years of overnight usage and 65K miles, I don't think that I have ever had to "reset" or turn back on a circuit breaker and his panel is almost identical to mine. It IS strange as to WHY th
  8. https://www.monacocoach.com/resources/media/manuals/2009_camelot_OM.pdf Use this link. Go to Page 175. That gives you the "Monaco" Explanation. Based on the age of the OP (2007) and my 2009 Camelot, the system is the same as is the functions. It prevents you from overloading your system. There is a "Check Voltage" input to the Intellitec EMS. IF the system reads 220 VAC between Line 1 and Line 2, then the EMS assumes you have a full 50 amp service. If it reads ZERO Volts, then it assumes you have 30 amp service and that is "interconnected" or tied together and you only can use a total of
  9. MOST recommend that you run the Genny for 3 or so hours daily. That will work if you leave the Samsung on the ENERGY REDUCTION setting and turn off the icemaker. That also assumes that you turn OFF (Unplug) your Home Entertainment items such as TV, Stereo, Cable, etc). Even in Standby, they DRAW power. I have two SIMPLE (not surge) power strips that I can turn off at each one. The other trick that Scotty talked about is converting the incandescents to LED. THEY are power hogs....as well as giving off heat. I eventually will probably convert the Fluorescents to LED, but for the interim, I
  10. MIGHT want to see if it happens with the Genny. IF it works OK, then something MIGHT be wrong with the Shore that the Surge Protector is not picking up. Second is that you have a LOOSE connection on that leg....so here is what I would recommend..... You need, if you are qualified, to tighten the connections and also be aware that if you have the ORIGINAL IOTA 50R transfer switch that it is a fire hazard.... SO....this would my trouble shooting and also doing Preventative Maintenance... First "TRICK". Disconnect all the power (Shore) and also open (Trip) the Genny circuit br
  11. STOP, ISOLATE and TEST again... First, look CAREFULLY at the circuit that was posted. The circuit uses a GROUNDED signal from each switch to work. Instead of running TWO Wires, when you press or do a momentary contact, then that is the SIGNAL. MAKE sure, and I am not talking down to you, that you understand HOW this whole circuit works before doing any more testing with aux hot leads and such...I would disconnect (mark and photograph the wires) the leads from the pump controller. Next or Number ONE, use a fused (10amp) lead and test the pump and controller by itself. Assuming you a
  12. You need to look at the circuit. ODDS ARE....you have three (or maybe 4) pump switches. Each time you press one of the switches, assuming they are momentary contact, you cycle ON or OFF the Controller. The Controller provides Power to the Pump. https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rvpartscenter.com%2Fshop-by-categories%2Flist2%2Felectrical-12-volt%2Fac-to-dc-1%2Frv-power-converters-3%2Fintellitec-water-pump-controller-00-00145-100-detail&psig=AOvVaw0GszDUqPJvrbeNnm2_2DAp&ust=1615329323029000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAIQjRxqFwoTCIipg-bgoe8CFQAAAAA
  13. MY opinion, based on having this same discussion with a Licensed NC Electrical (among other things) is this.. IT DEPENDS... Some Code "inspectors" such as building inspectors will let it slide or NOT call it out. OTHERS WILL. The correct way is to MARK THE Receptacle. NOW, again, local codes and ordinances and also "interpretations" prevail. A 50 RV box comes with the following receptacle....should you ever have to replace just the receptacle. Leviton 279-S00 50 Amp, 125/250V, Nema 14-50R, 3P, 4W That means or is interpreted as having all the necessary UPSTREAM compon
  14. I posted, I think, a Whirlpool set of instructions for how a dryer (new one) can be configured for different outlets. To be FULLY NEC Complaint, You must configure the dryer to work with the receptacle. Assuming that all know that our motor homes actually do have, potentially, 240 VAC incoming and that unless one has a special appliance, which some do, I believe, we only use the 120 circuits....then this is how a conventional dryer three wire dryer circuit can be configured to work. https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORKS-Dryer-Adapter-3-Prong-30-Amp-Dryer-Plug-to-4-Prong-Dryer-Fe
  15. No BRAINER....for me. Samsung RF 17 or whatever the number is now. Did that several years ago. Also have talked or emailed a lot of Camelot owners. Hints...and THIS might not work for you... MUST insulated the top and bottom access covers (assuming you do NOT have top vent). You need to insulate the side holes in the frame. I posted pictures Remove ALL the insulation on the sides. You need PURE air circulation. The insulation was to keep the heat from the burner/heater from coming in. Do NOT pay good money for a "custom" surround. It fits FINE. If you have a vinyl or wo
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