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Tom Cherry

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Tom Cherry last won the day on August 3

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    Camelot 40 QDP
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    5301 Burning Oak Court, Raleigh, North Carolina, 27606
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  1. FWIW.....and I been there and also talked to the developmental techs (the guys that did the work). The impeller kit comes with a paper gasket. That is all. BUT, when you take it apart, you have to remove the big "O" ring that looks like a skinny and distorted rubber band. They do NOT sell these. The only way to get them is to buy the Head Kit. So....that is why I bought the whole pump. YES. I have a spare head kit and several impellers....but I got a spare pump. YES....I carry spares....
  2. That depends.....if you have the ORIGINAL Sanicon, then you have the lower OUTPUT model. They upped the capacity to around 14 or so (memory) from 10. They also upped the current draw. The switch that turns it on.....UNLESS your Dynasty has a relay (we have folks that have prints and can help), then you MIGHT need to add a relay if you upgrade to the new pump. The life.....that is based on how you use it and how your abuse it. If you do a lot of beach camping and wash off a lot of sand....that will grind down the impeller. i find that one of the most damaging factors of the life or efficiency is the "Hair". I have put in a screen filter (drops right into the shower drain) to catch my falling folicles....as well as my grand daughter that sheds like crazy. Hair is the enemy of ALL macaerators....even the city sanitary systems. They are the 15 HP and higher models. SO.....If you eliminate the hair buildup around the shaft....that improves the life. The other secret is "scraping off the food". Food particles, if you have a clear coupling, come out at the end of the Gray tank being dumped. Really an issue. I bought a new pump with on Amazon. Eventually, you will have to purchase the Head Kit package. That is upwards of $75. I just bought a new pump. It is in. I rebuilt my old one. So, I can swap it out in 15 minutes. I DID put Hex Washer SS screws in the top of the "box", so I could easily get the top off and fix the pump or do whatever. If you have gone this long....you are lucky. Keep doing what you are doing. Hope this helps...
  3. I would go with the Trojan T-105. The cost of such will be $100 - $120. They are robust. They will last for many years as long as they are not too BADLY abused. They outlast all the other brands. I had read good things about them here. But, the clincher was a tech from Lazy Days that relocated to NC. He worked for a buddy who was the GM at a HR and Chevy dealership. He said that if a customer brought in an Interstate House that was dead, most likely it had no electrolyte. He would advise them....these are not gonna come back. If they said....REFILL and RECHARGE.....only 25% of the time did that work. BUT, if they were Trojan's, then the success rate was around 75 - 80%. The Trojan T-105 is the most popular golf cart battery in the US. One OTHER THING....and this is just for general infomation. I am an advocate of well cell batteries. They suit my needs and provide me with over 7 years of life. Now having said that, one has to understand that Wet Cells need preventative maintenance. You must replenish the electrolyte. You must USE them.....and discharge them periodically to say 50%. IF you are like me, I rarely drain mine as I don't dry camp. I also have a BIRD (Bi-Directional) charging system. I store the Camelot with a 30 amp service. I have Pulse Technology defulfanation modules. SO, I try to give them TLC. If I do....they last. I understand WHY folks like AGM's. But, as a moderator, it is our responsibility to make sure that folks are knowledgeable enough and make good decisions. Too many times, when an inexperienced or perhaps an experienced MH owner, without a lot of electrical knowledge reads the posts....the posts are "AGM's are the MAGIC BULLET". They don't need electrolyte. They are maintenance free. That is probably true.....but with some qualfications. IF you abuse (overcharge or have an electrical charging issue, one event can be catastrophe. You can KILL them or destroy them. We see TOO MANY posts... Switched to AGM's. Bought a bank of them when the old wet cells went dead. They are now dead and the dealer says they are toast. Will have to replace. Why did I only get 2 years out of them....?? There could be many reasons. The folks that are very knowledgeable and like the AGM's are typically VERY ELECTRONICALLY SAVVY. They have the need for such. They have some nice monitoring equipment. They know what is going on at all times with their batteries. They may have special needs or they dry camp a lot. What we fear is that someone will just skim or make a decision without fully understanding the pros and cons of AGM or the reasons that you might need them. This has been banging around in my head for a few days....so here goes. If you understand HOW to maintain Wet Cells and how to get good life out of them....then some of us don't feel that we get any value or advantage from switching to AGM's. That is NOT knocking the AGM's...it is just our personal preference or how we think we need to spend our money. If you get 7 - 9 years out of a bank of Trojan T-105....then you would need to get maybe 12 or so years out of the lowest cost AGM's. Will that happen? I don't know....but from what i read, I am not going to make that investment. In summary.... If you have a rig that does NOT have BIRD or Bi-Directional Charging, I would be WARY. Now some folks will stick on a charger....and charge the Chassis or the House. BUT, if you put on a run of the mill charger, you stand, I believe, more of a change of messing up or overcharging the AGM's. Wet cells DO need water. SO, If I did not have a newer MH....then I would be wary. Now, if you have upgraded your Charger/Inverter or put in the Blue Seas ACR or a BIRD system and understand HOW to set up your Charger and also how to read the remote and also what is happening....then you may be alright. If you buy a MH and it comes with or the electrical system was DESIGNED for AGM's....then you will be OK. I have two personal incidents that make me wary. First....recently, my Magnum remote failed. It was quirky. I noticed little things. I trouble shot it. I talked to Magnum. OK....PROBABLY the remote. But when the remote failed....it told the Magnum charger that I have a 1500 Amp Hour bank. The Charger then did its best to work with a bank that was 3 TIMES what I actually had. I really worried about my Trojans. I tested them and they were not abused. BUT, if I had had AGM's and the Remote failed....then who knows. You need, if you convert to AGM's fully understand HOW to reconfigure and how to monitor your charger. So many folk, unfortunately, NEED a new bank and there is a reason, unbeknownst to them, that they have a charging or an electrical problem. They say....HEY....put in AGM, they are idiot proof. WRONG. AGM's required a higher level of understanding that does Wet Cell so you know WHAT to do and WHAT NOT to do. Second....and this is over a 20 year history. I have owned Vettes. They are not driven that often. GM had a bad run of Delco side post batteries. They leaked. GM gave me a new one and then it leaked. I have the scars on my garage floor to show that. I read a LOT about the Optima AGM. I read hot rod blogs and Vette forums and such. I even talked to the Senior Tech at the local Interstate distributor. He said....not for me. We (interstate) do not run AGM's in our trucks. We have had a failure rate (will not crank) that is higher than the conventional Wet Cells. Optima is not any better. I read all sort of bad reviews where the AGM's failed quicker than did the conventional batteries. My wife's 2014 Upper end Caddy has an AGM. If failed. I will probably put back in an AGM when it goes out again. The charging system is designed with variable charging and was meant for an AGM. My 2016 Vette has a wet cell....there was NO AGM Option. Most Vettes (C&) came with the Battery Monitor Option ($90 or so). This is just a Vette labeled low amperage maintainer. It may not even be a Defulfanator. It is private labeled and I can't find the info. SO....when the Vetty battery fails.....regular for me. I DO use a maintainer on BOTH vehicles when we take long road trips and leave the cars in the garage. These are low amperage units and they maintain the battery. It takes about 2 days for them to read "Full Charge". When I come home....the cars start and the Voltmeters read what they should. SO....if you decide to go AGM's, do some research. make sure that your MH's system is working properly. Make sure that you have a method of maintaining charge on your House (assuming AGM's) at all times. Make sure that you reconfigure the Charger remote and that it WILL work (or have settings) for an AGM. Then, if that is your choice and you understand and pay the additional money for the convenience....and hopefully, the additional life.....that is your call. Hope this helps.....
  4. Chris, that is good to know. The Interstates that I have used, probably for the last 20 years, have been reliable for starting or Chassis. Many folks, whom I trust due to their knowledge, intellect and experience, have had great success with the Interstate Cranking batteries. It SOUNDS like Interstate has changed the coating process of the plates. I learned a lot from some members on and offline. When we fuss about batteries, we are typically talking about damage to the plates. The coating peels off (often from being dry or lack of an electrolyte). That coating collects on the bottom of the battery and builds enough to rattle around and SHORT out the battery. The shorted cell is easy to spot. If you have a 6 VDC battery and charge it, then measure the voltage. It will read aorund 4.5 or maybe 4.75 VDC. That means that only TWO of the cells are working. The other cell is shorted out. You will also see that when you test the Specific Gravity. I found this out when my original Interstates failed. I then, very stupidly, found that out when I let my golf cart sit for too long. Even a robust battery like the Trojan T-105 ain't THAT bullet proof. I replenished the electrolyte (it took a LOT). Charged and then drained and charged again. All was WELL....but then I drove it. OPPS.....the coating started peeling from the vibration. I lost two batteries....quickly. That is what is PROBABLY happening.... Thanks for the heads up.....
  5. I THINK that I have Moen fixtures in the Camelot. Really doesn't matter.... I was adding some Happy Camper to the gray tank today. I filled the sink and then put in the chemical and stirred it. I then pushed down the lever to open the drain or raise the stopper. OPPS....it be BROKEN... I used a knife blade to catch the edge of the stopper and lifted it out. BOY DID I LUCK OUT.. The metal rod was rusted.....it failed in the typical hourglass or conical shaped mode. BUT, the 1" or so metal tip that broke off came UP with the stopper. It hit me later.....DUMB @$$. You should have bailed out the sink, then removed the trap and THEN done your trouble shooting... WHY....because I always use the Sanicon. I have never used the Stinky Slinky. My GS, at a very young age was told to save Pop-Tops by his dad. He was camping with us and had one in his pocket. Somehow it made it through the Spendide and got caught in the Sanicon. I had to rebuild it. Moral of the story.... Tell the Laundry Person to ALWAYS check pockets.... When you break a Drain Stopper, always immediately remove the Trap and dump it and retrieve any metallic or otherwise parts that can get caught in the Sanicon.... Oh WELL.....NOW I KNOW....
  6. Your call. The COMBO battery is not suited for either Chassis or Coach in a Class A MH. Whether it is AGM or Wet Cell, you need a SINGLE Purpose (Starting -Cranking or Deep Cycle) in each bank. That is the gist of my comments and concerns... Whatever works for you.... No argument from me. The Interstates, in the Cranking Series, are working well for many of us....including Mr. Wizard. NOW....did Interstate change? Who knows. I have been running them for years in my cars. Once I added a maintainer to my less driven, Vette, I get excellent life out of them. Interstate is all over the country and will adjust and not give you any hassle and the local distributor will test and rejuvenate for free under the "Customer Care" warranty. My 5 YO starting batteries pop the engine after 15 minutes of sitting HOT after being shut down. That is the "poor man's" test for Cranking Batteries. The discussion over AGM vs Wet Cells will rage until the last Fossil Fuel propelled RV is crushed. The owners that take care of and exercise our House Wet Cells get up to 10 years out of Trojans. The ones that want AGM have to understand that IF their electrical system goes funky or they abuse the AGM's, there is NO RETREAT. Use it as a Boat Anchor and buy new ones. So, it is a matter of your lifestyle, your ability to monitor and maintain (AGM are NOT INSTALL AND FORGET.....we have posts all over here and on the old site about...."My almost NEW AGM's are dead and will not hold a charge....what do I do?") any TYPE of batteries. If you drain a Wet Cell or abuse it....especially a Trojan, you stand at least a 75% of recovery with only minor loss of SOC I do NOT quibble with the fact to some's taste's are.......AGM's are what they want. However, there is an equal contingent that understand how to maintain wet cells and have good life....even out of the "lesser quality" brands like Interstate.....and not Trojans. The EXIDE (NAPA) batteries are very dependable always. The only issue with this post was the fact that a "dual purpose" battery was touted as being a great choice for Chassis. it is NOT. Our MH's need SINGLE purpose batteries in each bank... Bill and I have quit the "debating". We have folks with MH experience going back 30 years. They are also very well versed and have researched batteries and also been reading blogs when Al Gore invented the Internet. I guess we are the Buggy Whip guys. So...that is my take.
  7. The Chassis that you suggested is not a "Pure" or a typical Chassis battery. It is a specialty AGM that is designed for Boats and maybe SOME RV's. We maybe be talking APPLES and ORANGES here. The Diplomats came with TWO 31P -MHD (950 CCA) batteries. Your Patriot probably has a larger engine and requires the 1150 CCA. BUT... The OEM Diplomat Chassis Battery was a wet cell (maybe sealed....they are NOW). What you are recommending is a Hybrid that would be used for Boats or MH with only ONE set of batteries. All the OP needs are standard CRANKING battery. Wet Cell vs AGM is his call. He does NOT need the more expensive DUAL PURPOSE....in fact that might not be suited for his needs....and they will fail prematurely. https://www.batteriesplus.com/product-details/marine_rv/battery/x2power/sli31agmdpm It is an AGM (sealed) battery. It is NOT recommended....therefore, as a Moderator, I am taking the time to explain this so that there is NO CONFUSION. I just recently went through this SAME exercise with a neighbor with a really upper end and tricked out Bass boat. He was fussing about how the same "Dual Purpose - High Performance" Batteries did not last. He did NOT have the Batteries Plus....but the specs on his batteries matched those that you recommended. he was out a substantial amount.... I also had a Winnebago with only TWO batteries....that were HOUSE and CHASSIS. That was ugly. The COMBO batteries failed miserably.... What the OP needs is a replacement for his original Chassis Starting batteries....and just that. He will spend far less for them than the combos, in either wet cell or AGM. https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sli31sa These only have 18 month warranty, but they are $120....so instead of $800, he would be in for $240. Batteries and Bulbs did not, based on a quick scan, have a SINGLE PURPOSE (Starting) AGM. Interstate does have such....but it is over $300... 31P-AGM7 Bottom line, the OP has a 2002 that did not come with a BIRD or Bi-Directional charging system like your Patriot did. I would be apprehensive of putting in AGM's for twice the cost and not having a good PLUGGED IN ALL THE TIME Maintainer on them. Many here are running the standard OEM Wet Cell Interstate replacements. I got 7 years out of my first two and they were not really down that much. They were a little "strained" when you were in the middle of the south and the temps were approaching 100...and you shut down...and let the engine sit for 20 minutes or so. They had a "pause", but STILL cranked the ISL. The hot engine had MORE compression. But, when the engine cooled down to ambient (even 100 dF), they started fine and never hesitated. i was going on a long trip....so I upgraded from the puny 775 (memory). Monaco let the Bean Counters go cheap....so instead of having the 950's like the OP does, I got the 775's. The SAME ISL in a Dynasty that year....had the proper or larger 950's. So I upgraded to the 950 CCA....and they are going strong....that was 5 years ago and a LOT of trips and starting (probably 30 K miles). Just wanted to make sure that folks were not confused. If my neighbor had not lost his high dollar dual purpose batteries and was convinced that needed the specialty DUAL purpose....when the original configuration was High Capacity Starting (single) and TWO deep cycle Trolling.....then I would not be so adamant. It cost him a lot as he bought batteries not designed for the application. His new bank....with a nice Pulse Technology maintainer is working great and he is very pleased. Thanks for understanding the need to address this in a little more detail...
  8. Hello. 

    I see you are from Raleigh. 

    I'm originally from Wallace,  NC, but currently living in Wilmington,  Delaware. 

    My Monaco is in Wallace though. 

    Do you have a service shop to recommend for chassis work?

    Ron P.






    1. Tom Cherry

      Tom Cherry

      I have recommended Motorite in Raleigh.  It is run by a great guy.  His dad helps out.  They are fairly small.....but they do all my PM and such.  They are NOT "Front End" guys.  They do the engine and genny and also install shocks and such.  They do my dash HVAC as well as the NC inspections (which may not impact you).

      Have not had anyone say anything bad.  They are on the east side of Raleigh, about 10 minutes off the I-440 Beltline.

      Hope this helps.

  9. https://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?p=K332&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=k332&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgo_5BRDuARIsADDEntR1pMMKbK2YYoIxYcUOKuEXfIsXorkXyZuw1TNZVKpc6NxCzMejKHwaAk3TEALw_wcB Do some googling. My recall is that I have about a 6" square plate. Metal unknown. THe whole plate is covered with caulk, but the black "Beetle" antenna is stuck to it. The above is for the same antenna. You have an access hole in the top. You can also buy a trucker's XM antenna. That is like a small dome on a post. It has a 3" base for the reflectivity. Bottom line....you need a GROUND plain (plane?) on a fiberglass surface. Same as a CB or other antenna. Matters not the metal. a thin piece of sheet metal work. SS, (typically 304) will also work. If you use aluminum, then you are depending on the adhesive. So, I would go for galvanized or 304. The Dicor Lap Seal (self leveling works well and spreads out. If you have the upright style (dome with post), then the ground plane was built in. But if you want to use the magnetic beetle, that works fine. XM is persnickity. I loose it in the car all the time when the trees are in full foliage and especially if wet. I rarely lose it in the MH. Don't know if the more expensive dome or dish type are better or now. I have used the magnetics for years....and then put them in permanently for the MH. I had a plate that I put on the front dash of my Vette. Again, it was SS with a black piece of Duct Tape to prevent glare. I had great XM reception from it. https://www.amazon.com/XM-Interoperable-Magnetic-Satellite-Antenna/dp/B01H5D0I1A/ref=asc_df_B01H5D0I1A/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807586683&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15891754408463982562&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009731&hvtargid=pla-570357881701&psc=1 If the link breaks....go to Amazon. Put in XM Magnetic antenna. $19 or so. That is what Monaco used on the 2009 Camelot.....with the ground plane... Good luck...
  10. It is on the MAIN or HOME page. Look for the BROWSE word....and the main page has Bill D's Motor Home in the picture. The tool bar or tab undeneath it. It has tabs or drop downs. Downloads is the fourth one (L to Right). Click on it....then follow the instructions that I gave you.
  11. The gold standard for batteries....at least for those of us that test and exercise and maintain them is the Trojan T-105. That is the GC2 battery group. They run, in the US, about $105 - $120. They will outlast anything....including the OEM Interstate. I have talked to on of the Senior Electronic Techs that spend 15 or so years at Lazy Days. He relocated to NC and was working for my buddy, who was the GM of a HR dealership. He said that when folks let their batteries run down and came in... He would tell them (or the service writer) that if they were Interstates.....that it would be cheaper to replace with Trojans rather than spend the money for refilling and recharging (the Tech's labor). He said that typically, maybe 20% of the Interstates would work.....but the other 80% came back for the Trojans. However his success rate on the Trojans was 90% or so. I would find the Trojans and put them in. OR.....see if I could make do and then purchase in the US... I purchased an Interstate COSTCO. It was a few dollars cheaper and I needed to replace one of my Golf Cart batteries just to sell it. The battery was rated far lower and it was not as heavy. SO BEWARE. Check the weight and the specs on any cheaper battery and then compare to the Trojans....
  12. Comment for you. GO on the ROOF. You should see the XM (or Siris) antenna. It is a SQUARE section. Monaco used a GROUND PLANE or plate for the later models. I THINK that mine is just a SS plate....or maybe just plain steel. It is glued or caulked in place. The antenna is the standard Magnetic XM antenna. There are adapters on the internet so that you can use the plug in or there is a plug in that adapts to a Coax connector. I have installed these before and had one permanently on my old Winnebago. I might have used some 16 gage galvanized and then put down an X bead of caulk. I then seated the plate over that. I drilled a small hole for the antenna connector and fed it in. I MIGHT have put on a Grommet. I then "caulked" it like you would not believe. That was my "shadetree" install for the Winnie. The Camelot came with an XM adapter. I took it out. BINGO....it was the SAME connection as my portable MyFI Delco unit. SO, I just plugged it in. I DID look at what Monaco did. They used a plate (think of a diamond). One Corner was pointed to the front and the other to the back. So it was used as the Ground Plane. Then they caulked in the whole thing. They caulked around the magnetic base and the hole... Good Luck
  13. Ron, Go to the DOWNLOADS section. You will find, on the RIGHT side....the PARTS LIST. DOWNLOAD THIS. You MUST save it as a PDF and get it on your computer. Wherever you want it. NOW....once you see it (or the icon if you put it on your desktop like all the old timers do.... OPEN it with your Adobe Reader. THEN go to the EDIT tab at the top. The DROP DOWN will have a FIND (magnifying glass). This is the BEST tool there is.... Type in resistor.... BINGO...that takes you to page 48. Someone wrote a story....just for you. IT has info on the PN, WHERE and HOW to get into it..... That is one of the best writeups I have seen. It is also for a 2004 Signature. You lucked out..... Good Luck....
  14. Great that you have a replacement. I DO not think that your Windsor had the funky "Hybrid Multiplex" lighting system that my Camelot has. M M Electronics advises that many of the panels like mine are "breaking down" and need to have new "Guts". I assumed that was the load shedding PCB and such....and NOT the main panel. I need to go back into mine. I have done the PM, but I don't know if I got every connection. YES....we all need to do that... Hope this works out for you. IF you have issues and it is NOT plug and play, then M M IS the Tech Support for Intellitec. They are great at trying to help you. I agree with the comments about replacing a riveted buss. You would never be safe as that is a factory installed and "non serviceable" portion. You can sleep easier with a new panel....Good Luck and thanks to Scotty....
  15. Totally agree. But, the easiest test is by using a pair of Jumper Cables and trying to start the Genny from the main DC terminals on the lower back end of the Genny. Joel, I crawl around less and less and am very cognizant that you don't do the same things that many of the young whipper snappers do. However, doing the simple things like battery connections and such is easy. IF you can find a helper to shinny under there, the Terminals are in plain site. The are RED and BLACK and have a RED and BLACK cable going to them. If the helper puts the jumper cables on the terminals and holds them in place....then you can attach to your Toad and start the Toad and then crank the Genny. IF it cranks.....VIOLA.....you have a cabling or battery or whatever issue and can find someone to help. Otherwise, you need to get a Genny Tech to look at it. That points you in the right direction. I CAN offer one more little TRICK. Your Motor Home Cranks. Remember, you have TWO ground Studs that complete the circuit to the Genny. There is a Ground Stud behind the Battery Box. There is one UP FRONT. MY MEMORY....and yours may be different is that the Genny Ground and the Hydraulic Pump Ground use a COMMON Ground. That is on the frame in the Genny compartment and easy to get to. If you clean THAT ground....then you would expect to have a good connection to the Genny's negative. NOW....since the Genny cranks off the HOUSE....if you have a bad Ground Stud connection on the House....throw a Jumper Cable from the Negative of the House to the Negative of the Chassis. That eliminate the ground stud....if it cranks then....you look at the NEGATIVE cable and grounds....if not....it is somewhere else. Many of these you can see and get to yourself....if you are so inclined. Good Luck...
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