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Tom Cherry

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Tom Cherry last won the day on November 21

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    Camelot 40 QDP
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    5301 Burning Oak Court, Raleigh, North Carolina, 27606
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  1. Great. You actually can pull that out. Serves no purpose. It is a Solenoid (Commonly called a contactor or a relay also). Chuck made a good point based on the age of your Motor Home. I would locate the 115 VAC Automatic Transfer Switch Has three large pieces of plastic or flexible conduit or maybe large pieces of Romex. Get the Name and the Model number. Google that or post it here. If it is any other brand that an ESCO, I would be dubious and then find out the history. Good Luck.
  2. Nothing other that information. Many folks do NOT understand that the ATS that Monaco used for many years were recalled or were problems. YES...nothing to do with Alternator, but if one person reads and find out and checks and then saves themselves a major problem...
  3. It may have the name TODD or it may have IOTA 50R. Either one is a fire hazard and should be immediately, as Chuck posted, removed. The ESCO LPT50BRD is the most commonly used one.
  4. Richard is spot ON. You can either move BOTH the cables to ONE Terminal (clean all the connections) OR purchase a NAPA P/N 781144. This is a SHORT jumper. You do NOT want a LONG ONE. That should restore the power. As most have said, the Salesman's Switch was a Brainstorm that was only put there for DEALERS and drives owners CRAZY. It was there so that a dealer could run around at the end of the day and kill all the lights in the MH and turn them back on in the AM. IT IS A PITA AND WILL FAIL. Why spend MONEY to replace a component that MOST never, EVER use. My DW would accidentally trip
  5. Coming in late. Here is one simple (at least to me) test(s) that you can make Pull the leads, one will do, from the Big Boy. That takes out the entire circuit. Get a 50 ft spool of #18 Line Cord (extension cord wire). Use alligator clips or put ring terminals on one end. Put that across the Positive and Negative of the Chassis Battery. Run those lead out of the battery box up to the closest window and into the motor home and pull them up front. Use painter's tape to hold the wires to the side of the MH. NOTE WHICH LEAD IS NEGATIVE (or test it). Hook up (alligator clips) a VOM t
  6. Maybe. Monaco had to specify the slide pump and power and such. Lippert was great in finding out what I had and then giving me a substantial discount due to the fact that the original model had design defects. Most of the slide problems that folks, or Camelot folks, have are not in the pump, but in the design of the controls. Monaco made up a Diode Matrix and had an interface connector. That allowed them (Monaco) to eliminate the cost of a mating LCI Controller. I can't get upset with Lippert over this issue. My only complaint, and I will pass it back to them is that they need tigh
  7. EPOLOGUE Ok. NEW Lippert Slide Motor (Pump, Tank, Valves, etc) System was installed. I did the following to avoid future issues. Installed a Supplemental Ground. Ran the old Ground UP to the Dash Chassis Stud (right up from the pump). Then terminated or attached it there. Made us a new 1/0 Cable and ran it directly to the Pump. The original ground was from a stud on the Curb side that was used for the Generator Start and the Hydraulics. GOOD GROUND NOW. Batteries were a little low, so I measured some voltages with the Genny running. Magnum was kicking out 95 Amp per the met
  8. Bob, Thanks. That makes sense. The term "Pressure Switch" was what was confusing me. YES. We are DEFINITELY on the same page. My ONLY comment regarding the use of the Bosch relay was a 2010 or so Monaco Tech Support (back in the days when you would talk to Jim or the OTHER REAL folks in Oregon) comment. They had a file note that the original AquaJet RV55's would sometimes blow or pop the 10 Amp fuse, On the Camelots (Scepters) and above, the pump was part of a Multiplex system. There was a 10 Amp fuse on the Multiplex Module, EASILY accessed in the Main Power Cabinet. Monaco had folks sw
  9. Bob, Curiosity.... The Pump Relay or Controller has an incoming pigtail. If I look carefully at the photo, there appears to be some wires coming OUT of it and going to the lower left. Is the Pigtail and the adapter in the picture the INPUT. That would have to be Power (RED), Ground (color?) and the THREE Switch Contacts. The output from the controller should be Power (Red) and Ground.. I ASSUME that he Snapdisk is for the System Heat. IF I understand the DIP's circuit, there is a pressure switch SOMEWHERE in the circuit. That has to be an ON /OFF switch. I don't
  10. The original post got lost in hyperwhatever. The HW50C, unless Progressive or Aladdin can tell you PROBABLY will not interface or is compatible. If you pull the specs off the Southwire site, the 40250-RVC has to have a separate Remote for standalone. SO, if you installed the HW50C, you would lose the interface. There is an RF22 output from the HW50C, but whether they speak the same language, only testing will tell. If you look at the features or the specifications of the 40250 versus the HW50C, they appear to be the same. Having read the specs on the original Surge Guard switch
  11. David, Thanks for the link. Your 40250RVC is comparable to having a conventional ATS and an HW50C. Here is the specs for the HW50C https://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-hw50c The rating of the HW50C is a smidge (150 Joules) higher. The 41260 does now have all the features of the 40250RVC when you look at over and under and open ground and such. The HW50C is pretty bullet proof. The side by side comparison of the three says that for best protection you either get the 40250-RVC or a conventional ATS and install the HW50C. https://rvpower.southwire.com/products/tran
  12. Jim, you have a Shurflo pump. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/need-make-model-for-water-pump-for-diplomat-40pdq-431826.html You MUST find the Pump Controller. You have THREE switches that operate the pump. They are all tied together. When you push one button, that signals the Latching Relay. It will turn "ON". If you push that button again or one of the others, the switch (spring loaded) will send another signal and turn it off. All of your SWITCHES are spring loaded. Each of the three switches are in parallel or tied together so that one signal or push will pulse (Goes from ON
  13. The debate will rage about whether to install the 41260 SurgeGuard versus a conventional ATS and the Progressive Industries HW50C. The pros for a conventional ATS and the Progressive. The SurgeGuard 41260 is not field serviceable. The MOV's (heart and soul of the Surge protection) MAY have an alarm light or a warning light to say that they have been toasted. The HW-50C is 100% serviceable. There are only three components. The control board; Surge PCB (MOV's) and a Relay. There has been debate about how Progressive rates the relay. However, based on reading all the posts on the HW50C
  14. The heaters (when you are using AC) for the Gas/Electric are around 350 watts or so or maybe 800 watts max. Well within the 15 Amp CB capacity. I googled and found an 80 page paper on the thermodynamics and heat transfer and such on an "Automatic" ice maker. The charts show that there will be aorund an amp or so of energy required, when the cubes are freezing. Then there is a 1 - 2 minute spike in the wattage when the heater comes in. The heater is around 200 watts so you use about 1.5 Amps. watts. Bottom line, if you use the icemaker, you will, in theory, use around 15% of a 2000 Watt I
  15. Youi are obviously well informed and experienced. All I know is that most of the factory, I think, Res Refers have the power split. The Icemakers are on the Inverter and the Heaters are on the 15 Amp REFER Breaker in the Electrical Panel. I don't have a clue with Norcold and Dometic separated the plugs. Monaco and others MAY have just put in a Duplex and you plugged both in. The 2009 Camelot prints show TWO receptacles, which mine has. I measured my Dometic 1402 and Tom Johnson's guys said it was WAY less trouble (they had a fork lift) to yank out a window and then move the Dometic (they
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