Tom Cherry

OK….one at a time. If you choose a Coleman or such, then mounting a Microair thermostat will not work. You need control wiring (5 conductor) to the Coleman or any typical ceiling unit…with or without a heat pump. Monaco never ran wires for a conventional system. You need a thermostat cable from the new MicroAir to the ceiling as well as wire to the furnace. MicroAir thermostat requires either a thermostat cable (multiple wires) or a MPX Data cable for a Dometic or Penguin system….and the 4/5 and 10 button are not interchangeable. Next up…the popular Houghton RecPro has only a cooling thermostat.Also, there is only one brand and style of “dumb” thermostat that will work. If you use a typical RV thermostat, you must put in a relay to have dry or unpowered contacts for the furnace. If you choose to use the MPX data cables….and MicroAir makes one for the old (4/5) and new (10) button units, you STILL have to have the individual unit control modules in place. Otherwise, if you choose a NON MPX or a “Coleman Style” RV unit….hard wired multiple (cable) wire from thermostat to ceiling… Just making sure some other member does not take your generic comment and then try to implement and run into the complexity and reality of “project”…as many have….and regretted…. These little nuances are not fully understood..

If you search and read here….THIS IS how it has to work. It matters not if you have one thermostat with a furnace and multiple zones….such as a single thermostat in the front and it controls the the front unit as well as zone 2 and it controls the back unit…or if you have a front and rear thermostat….and single or multiple furnaces or an Aquahot with several zones…. It also matters not if you have a 4 button or a 5 button Duo Therm/Dometic thermostat. The data cable (think phone wire) starts at the thermostat. It runs to the front unit and is connected to a Control Module on the unit (for the 13.5 K in the plenum..INSIDE and for a 15K…on the roof under the cover). There is 12 VDC and 120 VAC that comes to the unit. The data cable runs to the thermostat. 2 wires provide 12 VDC. The other two wires carry a multiplexed data signal from the thermostat to the control unit. That signal tells the HVAC to cool or heat if also a heat pump. It also controls the fan mode and such. IF there is a furnace connection for the front (zone 1), then it controls the furnace. IF the thermostat controls the rear (bedroom zone 2), then that data cable runs back to the rear unit. There is a similar control module there….and there is a remote temp sensor on the wall. If you have TWO furnaces….then one will be connected to the control module. If only ONE for the MH….then there will be NO “Furnace” or HEAT mode for Zone 2. The Dometic Multiplexed thermostats do NOT work like a home thermostat….with a 5 or 7 wire cable running to the roof top or the furnace. All the signals are electronically sent (digital) to whichever control module needs help. The caveat….you can NOT heat in the front and cool in the rear.. NOW, the furnaces that Monaco used were NON CONVENTIONAL units. They only have two wires. There is incoming 12VDC to the control board. These furnaces are “DUMB”. There is a two wire pair, often called the BLUE wires that is connected the HAVAC unit up front. The furnace only knows one thing. If there is a circuit or the two wires are “switched” on (think twisting a wire nut on them), the furnace comes on. Break the circuit or disconnect them. OFF. YES….you can install the RecPro and use the ceiling thermostat (or maybe your phone) and you operate the Air Conditioner. BUT….there is NO circuit or connection to run or operate the furnace. You have to remove the control units from each Dometic HVAC and then “reinstall” each on the plenum. Now, you have to find the pair of wires that connected to the plug on the control unit. Dometic uses BLUE…but Monaco ran two wires to the furnace. Some were color coded….some were “white” with a label. These wires have to be connected directly to the Furnace Contacts on the controller. The thermostat and the controller(s) have to be wired exactly as they were in the original Monaco MH. You have to do a reset. You will ONLY have HEAT or a Furnace ZONE…I think. If you have AC, it is connected to NOTHING and won’t control the RecPro SO, the only thing that the old or original thermostat now controls or will control is the furnace. Many folks, as well as at least 50% of the technicians never understood this. They would rip out the old rooftop unit and throw it away with the control module. They did not look at the print on the original unit and then figure out how to hook up the 120VAC and maybe the 12 VDC. But there were more wires….two of them were the wires to the furnace….and they were left disconnected. There is a TON of information and frustration on the Air Stream sites and the RecPros were the “cheaper” option…. There was maybe a dozen or so “authorized” factory repair shops in the US that actually made the old Dometic (Duo Therm) system work and the thermostat would control the furnace. Most had wire mold installed and the two wires from the furnace were run from the furnace and up the wall. The “Coleman” and other “Generic RV Thermostat” were all DC powered. You can NOT use one of these. When you try, the Furnace OUTPUT did strange things. The two wires were electically neutral or insulated or isolated. Putting 12 VDC on them was known to cause issues or blow fuses or not work, it FINALLY hit some of the shops. You had to use the Furnace Output 12 VDC on a relay coil. Then the two wires from the furnace were on the contacts….so in effect….think of it as an “electronic” light switch. If you ran the two wires inside the Motor home….you could use a wall light switch or any switch….flip the switch ON….furnace runs….turn it off….Furnace is OFF. Coleman also says flat out….we do NOT make an RV thermostat with DRY or no POWER furnace output. Somewhere, and I have posted this many times, is a special mechanical (no incoming power) thermostat on Amazon. It allows you to adjust the temperature and it operates and runs the furnace. BUT, it HAS to have or should have an OFF setting. Many don't… THUS…a functional thermostat hard wired from the furnace… THAT’s IT. As a Moderator, we warn folks that the RecPro solution requires extensive knowledge of the system. BUT, from a coat standpoint, it may be more costly than replacing the Penguins and updating to the new CCC2 MPX system. The 4 button is extinct…you can find old, maybe refurbished 5 button. MicroAir sells a replacement for around $400 (last I heard). The 5 button CCC Control Module is still in production….but eventually it will be discontinued. So, if it dies, a new one will be around $200. Therefore, to keep your old furnace running, you will spend up to $600. Microair has been a bit elusive. A member once posted that MicroAir will “reflash” or convert the old 5 button to the new CCC2 syatem…10 button? BUT, he never confirmed…Microair told me….NOPE…buy the NEW 10 button replacment…or $400. Many members have successfully kept and rewired, properly, the 5 button system. Many members have made disparaging remarks in that we moderators don’t like the RecPro’s and they are up to day and very intelligent. That is NOT THE CASE. The RecPros work great as stand alone units, if RecPro would incorporate a dry (no voltage) set of contacts that would also operate a furnace so that you had dual mode ….CHILL, OFF, HEAT….that would be a perfect solution. There are also comments about MicroAir. Yes, they are technologically better than the Dometic and folks enjoy the phone programming…compared to,the older of existing ones. BUT the techs at MicroAir said, point blank, we do NOT understand nor can help you troubleshoot the Dometic MPX control system. Dometic has to do that. Dometic is less than willing, we have been told, to try to troubleshoot a failed system as they have NO knowledge of the internal MicroAir systdm. What we have learned and post is that a mixed system is difficult. One member said MicroAir was sending a new thermostat. All well and good…but the issue was in the Dometic Control Module. He eventually, swapped the front to the rear….bingo…problem moved. A NEW thermostat would NOT have fixed that. Just want folks to understand that a cheaper system, which uses old and antiquated controls might, in the long run cost them more…but many folks intrnd to gef rid of the MH in the next few years and are willing to gamble, Hope this makes sense…and that you now have a better understanding. Wihiut knowing if your control modules were salvaged and hooked up, properly, difficult to help trouble shoot…

Word of caution. Dometic warns folks as well as does Lazy Days in their “Everything you need to know about your rooftop AC” seminar….do NOT put in a fancy air filter system without testing it. Wash and clean the original dometic filter. Then run the AC unit for an hour so so to get the room stabilized. Measure the temperature of the inlet (filter) and the closest register or vent. The difference (Delta T) should be between 18 and 22 Degrees. If you have a clogged or dirty filter, it will increase to as much as 26 degrees (difference or Delta T). That means the air movement is being blocked and you will have poor cooling or little dehumidification. SOME of the homemade or the commercial units actaully block or impede the air flow….like a clogged filter. If you have one of these, then the system is working harder and you are not getting 100% MAX Cooling efficiency. Folks say….mine is better than new or it’s a super cooler and report high Delta T but the air flow is impeded and that’s the reason for the high or out of range Delta T…which reduces the cooling ability to cool.

This was a double post….as in a duplicate post, copied, and then posted to two different, but similar or exactly the same, older, topics…. Here the the response….so it answers, on both topic, your questions…. YOU have to make a call. You have the standard Duo Therm Multiplexed control system. If you don’t put in Penguins then you cannot control your furnace. You will have to install a separate thermostat, one for each furnace….or one if you only have one. You will need to find units that have remote thermostats (wireless or BT). There is not any other system that will work with the existing Duo Therm MPX control system. A few folks have installed Houghtons. But you have to keep the old thermostat and the control units from the Duo Therm to make the Furnace functional…but the Houghton AC units will not work with the Duo Therm thermostat. A few folks have totally rewired their MH and used Colemans. They had to run a 5 or 7 wire cable to the Roof top unit. Wiremold or figure out how to snake the wire up the wall or use exterior wiremold to the rooftop likewise run cables to the furnaces. That’s the basics. Monaco chose the single or double thermostat, in some cases, Duo Therm system. It only required a data cable (think phone line….with different connections) from the thermostat. You ran 120 VAC and 12 VDC to the units. Easier install. Also, you had one simple system and the thermostat controlled many zones. It was a selling point or a “high end feature in a lower end” MH. There are probably 10 different topics that have been posted here. All the same….keep the central features and install new Dometic’s or go with other brands and run wires or snake them or run wire mold up and down the walls and on the ceilings. Put Duo Therm in the search box…..click on everywhere….chose topics. Probably 25 plus pages…. Please do the research on this…lit is all in here…. Thanks….

Yes, but if you use WIPER ARM in search box then click on EVERWHERE, you will get all the posts. Over the years, these posts have a link or a name to every vendor since 2000 or so and also links to aftermarket distributors that can readily identify the OEM vendor and have parts or have sourced replacement parts for those vendors that may no longer be in business. AM is usually the first GOTO as they dominated the wiper suppliers. Download the parts list. It has at least 3 or more. Diesel Equipment (add wiper blades when you google) has been the BEST OTHER source. They understand the systems and have arms that are better than OEM’S The AM arms are a bit on the puny side for the 32” blades. I have new ones and run 28” and they work great. The area not cleaned is for the panorama stuff you see in photos and not critical to driving. The 28” blades also will make the motor and linkage last longer… way less drag so the motor is not stressed to max force. BTW…I used to visit the ANCO plant and talked to the engineers. ANCO made all the arms and blades for every OEM AM unit. AM LATER outsourced them when we closed the ANCO plant…

Just to clear the air and set the record straight. Frank is the only person that has successfully repaired the K’B CCM switch modules. Frank took this on as a “personal” challenge maybe a year of so ago. He had helped some recover functions and started to understand the MPX system. The saga or story of how he was able to “download and reprogram or fix” any of the components” is documented in the topics. Do a search of KONGSBERG” and select TOPICS. He has posted the “gist” of his journey. He set up a “bench” line where he had a complete CCM system breadboarded together and had every function, as in the output signals to EVERY K’B controlled component, working. With that rig, he can diagnose any issue. He also was able to download and store every module’s program. Memory says there are at least 7 or 8 discrete chip programs for the system. Then, he developed a method to remove the “chip”, which is surface mounted on each device….and replace with a new, virgin unprogrammed chip….with precision as the 28 (memory) contacts….7 per side…placement has to be within maybe 0.003”. Once replaced, then he has the ability to reprogram the chip with the OEM program….making it 100% functional. In some cases, I think he has also repaired other items or restored a faulty “trace”. There are no other shops or individuals in the US that have accomplished this….much less have a smattering of his technology and expertise. It has been a “life saver” for our members. There is a 30+ page topic here of how a member bought a “salvaged” MH and had the moxie to make it quasi roadworthy…as in drive it home. The switches had been “tested” by another shop, only to discover that the original switches sent in, many of which were known good, were NOT returned and were replaced with defective ones. THUS, that shop is one that we now have concerns about. The above is the gist of how this saga ended and Frank is the only person to persevere and develop the methodology as well as fabricate the jig for replacement and also “crack the code”….as in learned how, with many hours of experiments and also totally drew up a schematic of the boards…to get a copy of the programs. This is a feat beyond all electronics comprehension unless one was there, via emails, texts, photos as well as many phone calls…..which I was fortunate enough to be involved. As Paul Harvey would say…..now you know the REST OF THE STORY….

I WISH I got a commission from Magnum. BUT, at least you did NOT purchase a new inverter....without knowing that the OLD ONE is dead. Good Deal. It will fit. You will really enjoy the NEW inverter and the features on the NEW remote. I still, like Ben (96 EVO) have my original....but all of the function and features of the NEW remote are NOT IN the old inverter. Better to start with NEW stuff... Let us KNOW. Follow the instructions. You will, I THINK, get a NEW Batt Temp Sensor. Install it. BUT, if you want to be super safe, don't bolt it to the rear NEGATIVE. Use a piece of Gorilla tape and put the metal tab (the one with the hole) against the case. Use zip ties and make a "loop" that will fit around the case and then use that to secure the BTS. You PROBABLY are OK...with a NEW ONE...but they short out.... DO NOT USE THE OLD ONE....say good bye to it... The AGS depends on if you HAD one and if it is working...but if you need or decide you want it....then the NEW "-N" AGS is great....and the new remote makes it easy to use. Way less complicated than programming an old VSH Recorder. LOL. Keep us posted.

Coach Battery to Inverter (for both Charging or Inverting...as providing 120 VAC) is a FUNCTION of the Inverter and the Battery bank. I don't know all the electronics on your coach. You need to look at the prints. BUT, the Remote and the Inverter and the Battery (House) are all interconnected. Fuses up front are not, for the most part, involved. Read your Manual and download your Inverter Manual. Start on page 307 of the LaPalma manual. If it were ME....then, here's my UNIVERSAL FIX. Turn OFF the 30 Amp Breaker marked Inverter on the Main Panel. Turn off the Battery Disconnect Switch. Unhook the Solar Battery wires or cover the Solar panel with a blanket...if you have one. Then unhook the Positive of the HOUSE battery. NOW, disconnect or unbolt the Positive and Negative cables on the inverter. NOW>>> Let that sit for an hour or so. THEN, reverse. Hook back up the inverter cables and keep going until you turn on the 30 Amp breaker. That clears all the electronic currents or stored gremlins out of the inverter. Follow the steps in the Manual as how to set up and run. If that doesn't do it... Then check. Is the Inverter, with AC OFF, providing you with internal AC power (try an outlet and check the Microwave). IF ALL IS WELL...then there MAY be a problem. BUT, if it doesn't invert....then you have to look at your diagrams or start following the cables from the Inverter. There will be a FUSE for the inverter. Typically a 200 Amp one. May be BIG or may be round. If that fuse is BLOWN....then you will not be able to INVERT or Charge. That's the short version.

Yes….so is mine. BUT after the hard reset, if it is NOT charging….and the Magnum Tech’s verified it is KAPUT….it is dead. The board alone is more than $700 Your remote probably works. Mine died..Just a matter of how used, conditions, power, blips. YES, we both be living on borrowed time. My Hard Restart average, in at least 20 instances, is probably 80%, I’ll take those…but John’s died….

Be a big spender. Order the new ME-RC remote. NOT THE MC-ACR, There are many features in the new inverter that the old remote will not have or allow or interface with. Likewise, when i replaced my old remote, I picked up a LOT of features. I do not know, Magnum will have to comment, if your present, assuming you have one, 4 knob AGS will work….or if that is something you use. The original 4 knob had serious “design” issues. But the new “-N” AGS plugs in and no issues. MY 4 Knob unit failed after 3 years. The “-N” AGS is 10 years old….easy to use. JUST INFO & FOOD FOR THOUGHT….

You need to talk to one of the following... @Frank McElroy or @Scotty Hutto They are more familiar with the BMK. IF you already have the BMK installed, and by that, I mean PROPERLY....as some were not or folks didn't understand, these guys can help you. As to the BTS. That is a matter of PREFERENCE. It MAY be that the Previous Owner (PO), since you speak in acronyms, decided NOT to use it. It is nothing more than a Contact Thermocouple. The ring terminal or the mounting tab is supposed to go to the MOST Rearward Negative on any bank...since you have, probably TWO House banks. BUT, if there is a failure of the Thermcouple, then it has been known to have issues. The heat conducting tab is supposed to be "insulated", but it if shorts out, then it could, conceivably, send a GROUND signal to the Inverter from the "Supposed to isolated" leads of the thermostat...on the phone cable connector. Folks have been known to Duct Tape it or use Zip Ties (daisy chained in to a big loop or use and HVAC Duct Zip tie) and secure it to the side of the battery case. It will read temps there...probably not as accurately as the metal Negative Plate stud or terminal, but it will NOT, if shorted, give you a potential problem. As to how to RUN... Frank has a 2008 Dynasty....maybe he can shoot a picture and PM it to you. That's about it. I THINK that Scotty did some setup work on the ME-ACR. I do NOT have the BMK and I wrote the file on how to setup the OLD and NEW ME-RC... Hope this helps.

Figured that or that you knew that. But also wanted to confirm my suspicions. Thanks for the update….

Check the prints. There may or may not be a “FUSE” to the pump. Odds are there is a resettable Circuit breaker in the RRB. The Patriot (Same a Dynasty) uses breakers. The hydraulic leveling system was a “supplemental” or option to the normal air bag leveling. It may or may NOT be part of the HWH system for the slides….unless he has electric front slides. Since it is an “intellitec MPX” unit, the HWH hydraulic uses a “control” box for the slides. NOW…it gets tricky, so, all this comment is …..is generic for the HWH slides…. There are two signals that have to go to any hydraulic “system” to deploy slides or, I think, conversely, jacks. One is a “Pump Start”. That is a signal (stays on while motor running) to energize or engage the Pump Motor solenoid. That solenoid then closes and the High Current resettable circuit breaker power goes to the Pump motor. There is a corresponding signal that goes to the appropriate solenoid to allow the fluid to flow. The 05 Dynasties that did NOT have the Intellitec MPX, so it had plain switches to activate the slides….thus they were hard wired. When the Dynasty went to the MPX system, in 2006, Monaco had to add the more sophisticated HWH control box. The Pump Start signal came from the Circuit board in the box. Then there was an individual relay for each solenoid also in the box. So, it got a bit more “complicated”. NOW….if there was a “full wall slide”, Monaco did NOT use the HWH Hydraulic system for it. There was a separate “Hydraulic” pump and reservoir on the rig…..folks spent a lot of time troubleshooting their HWH Slide system trying to make the full slide work…. OPPS….stand alone. I have no idea how the jack system works on a Dynasty….but one needs to know if it is part of an HWH Slide or a separate Hydraulic pack, most likely a Lippert for the Jacks…. Monaco used Lippert systems and controls a lot. Odds are, the leveling unit is a Valid/Powergear system….so knowing “where” that unit if and whether if is part of a slide system or stand alone is critical…. Frank and I spent a LOT of time “helping” a tech fix an HWH for a slide….until the owner told us it was a Full Wall and that slide was NOT powered by the HWH system…. The things you learn…. Good luck….keep us posted….

John and I have talked….and he is going to test the inverter using the default or built in parameters…..and will post the results.

You have NEW headlights with the DOT stamp. They were molded and then a UV Resistant Vacuum applied coating, per DOT Specs, applied….as they age, the coating begins to oxidize….. However, you probably will a longer life and not have to clean and coat…, One of the site or reviews or places called it FOUR steps….if you read the PDF, the second step is a TWO part cleaning or polishing. Thus…”four” Semantics. If you follow the 3 steps….same as we have posted for 15 years. The “oxidizer” removal (careful….not get on paint) is nothing more than a solvent….as in Deet. The second step…lf you do the first step correctly, you may not have streaks….but using the ScratchX cleans them. Then wash and rinse… the kit has two different steps….thus, 4 distinct steps…. The Third Step is the protectant . There is nothing unique or magical in the first two steps….use their kit or Deet and ScratchX….you have cleaned off the haze or the oxidized layer. NOW….the real question. Is the $18 Kit have some special or magical protectant that will last longer than Aerospace 303? That I don’t know….what do the ratings say? My point….if you contaminate the special Cerrakote Protectant with 303….will or may shorten the life, From my background in surface prep and plastic molding and vacuum coating, if there is a proprietary protectant that crosslinks to the compound that is in step 2….then it would be highly inadvisable to adulterate it and not get the life that the kit says. BUT if folks say it only lasts 2 months or so….then the DEET method is easier and cheaper. FWIW. I am NOW at almost 6 years on the 3M film that I had Dazzling Detail put (a $20 tip) on my headlights….. therefore a REAL UV resistant film works….there are kits you can buy. There are clearcoat kits that you spray. But, if the original UV vacuum coating is gone….then in 30 days….they haze… Hope this clarifies it….

Go to THIS topic. I posted a link close to the “top” for the 2003 Dynasty complete set of prints. Click on the link….it is in there and you can print of save as a PDF. There is a GREAT index in the front…..easy to follow and then look at the page number.

There is a TECH button thqt gives the Magnum folks info. Do the hard reset. Nothing hooked up and see it every thing works….then add back in t remote. Only way to find out if the Inverter is OK and or the remote. Better to troubleshoot and isolate the problem rather than throwing $$ and buying things that are not broke.

The entire Dometic (was Duo Therm) control system is a Multiplexed system. There is a two Pair (2 wires per pair) data cable. Looks like a phone cable that runs from a Thermostat to an HVAC unit. The HVAC has 120 VAC for the compressor and motor. There is 12 VDC to power the Thermostat…from the 12 VDC in the control module. One pair of the data cable has 12 VDC. The other pair of cables carries the “Multiplexed Data signal”. There is no hard wiring or a multi wire (like a home thermostat). Just two itty bitty wires from the thermostat that gets a signal from the thermostat and sends instructions to the first HVAC unit. If there are additional units down stream, then one thermostat controls all of them..….as in Zone 1, Zone 2 or additional zones…. You just keep the data cabe going from one HVAC (Control Module) to the nest. That is why one can NOT install a typical RV unit that requires a multi Wire thermostat cable….5 to 7 wires….and they have to be at lease 18 gauge. The data cable is probably 24 Gauyge and you only need one pair of wires…

I'd be reluctant to use it.... THERE IS A SPECIFIC PROTECTANT in the kit....see the STEP 4 instructions. There are volatiles and such in the 303. It works great if you don't do anything but POLISH. The protectant wipes are on of the "UNIQUE" things in the kit. I have seen some bad things happen when you use other products. That is why the kit is so high, $$. But, yours. Once you use the 303, it will probably wash off the special coating. BTW...FWIW.... All that kit does is get you to BARE plastic.... and THEN there is a "Specialty Ceramic Protectant"... As I stated early in the topic, the old fashioned and cheap way is to clean off the brown/yellow oxidized finish with an insect repellant...with a high concentration of DEET. DEET is a powerful "plasticizer" eater upper.... LEARNED THE HARD WAY. BUT, what you are doing is just using a solvent to take off the haze. You can polish or abrade off the out film or use DEET and wipe it of. Probably need to do a little touch up with something like ScatchX. That is NOT a wax. Then you use a mild window cleaner or a little soap and rinse it. NOW, you have a CLEAN unprotected coating. You are basically at Step 3 of the Kit you bought... Then use the 303 and then reapply every one to two months. I'd hold off on the 303 and see how long the special coating or protectant lasts....

The circuit is on the prints. I do NOT think that there is a "Circuit Board". It is strictly switches... and two relays... The prints we have on FILE are the PITS....blame Monaco. However, the shades are pretty much universal. The best print is from a 2003 Dynasty. I have downloaded it and included it. You MIGHT want o download the Dynasty prints....YES...you have a LOT of different stuff. BUT, the common items are the same and the Dynasty prints actually show SCHEMATICS and not "plugs and harnesses. Here is the file. LOOK at the index that someone prepared. Page 99 shows the one that I have pulled before. That is how it works... The logic is a bit contorted (memory), It MAY involve switching Grounds... a COMMON practice with Monaco. But, if you sit down and start to follow it...it makes sense. Here is the Dynasty file... and the printout of page 99 Dual Shades Circuit - Dynasty...and probably OTHERS - Circa 2003.pdf

Back to basics. First, here is an older manual. https://www.bluepacificsolar.com/picture_library/tech-specs/magnum-me-series-installation.pdf Second.... You MAY have an improper setup on the REMOTE...or your REMOTE is flaky and causing things to change. SO...here is what I would do. NO AC or SHORE. Cover your solar panel or remove the battery from the Solar. Turn OFF the HOUSE Battery switch. Then Disconnect the House Battery Positive. Then remove the power (BOTH LEADS) from the Inverter. Pull or remove the three (I think you have 3) phones lines from the Magnum. Should be a Batt Temp Sensor. Remote and Network (that is the AGS if you have one. Let the inverter SIT for around an hour. That dissipates all internal stored charged. This is CALLED, by Magnum a HARD Reset (Restart). DO NOT PLUG BACK IN the Network, Remote or Battery Temperature phone lines. NONE OF THEM....hen reconnect, in reverse order everything. Restore the AC LAST NOW... You need to RESTART the INVERTER. Hold in the power button for a few seconds. It will power UP. OK....as to the cause.... MANY DIFFERENT things. BUT, clearing out the "electronic gremlins" in the Inverter is the FIRST thing...that Magnum will tell you to do. They will go through the SOFT restart...but when a repetitive error occurs, we have found it best to just "SHUT 'ER DOWN". Also Magnum techs say ONE HOUR....not is what is in the manual. NOW...the Inverter has a "Program" of DEFAULT Parameters. You are NOW running on this. They are designed or configured for our MH's. SO....let it run. It WILL charge the batteries. Therefore, NOT having any PHONE lines connected, the Defaults take over. Let the Batteries charge up. How long... Maybe overnight. Then you can test the next morning. IF you kill the AC (unplug from shore), then the Inverter will start to invert...there MAY be a flicker and you lose the Microwave clock...this is normal for one of the defaults... When you do the proper Remote SETUP....the Search Watts is usually turned off. IF all is well. Let it run on batteries for a while....and then back to AC.... You KNOW the Inverter is OK... NEXT....focus on the REMOTE. Here is the FILE that I put together... OK....based on the age and rev level of your remote...not ALL the parameters may be there. SO...plug in the remote. THEN scroll through the parameters and write down (take a picture?) of the settings. Start with the SHORE and then go through the setup. Record for each step. NOW LET IT RUN... Turn OFF the AC and watch it come back on when you apply AC again. It is NORMAL for the Lights NOT to come back on sometimes... SO, you MIGHT have to push the buttons. BTW....you can NEVER turn off the INVTERTER from the remote. In your MH, the Inverter is DIRECTLY connected (via the FUSE...probably a 300 Amp... Folks THINK you can. It remains in STANDBY. The ONLY WAY to turn it off....do the SOFT RESET (hold in the button for almost 30 seconds....it reboots)....AND you have to turn it BACK ON... the Button or switch will NOT do this. You CAN turn off the Charger. Don't ask me....Magnum told me that and said it was a commonly asked question as well as myth... NOW....start to CHECK the remote. Go back THROUGH the setup. Compare what the Remote HAS (Displays) with the Values or Parameters you set. When a Remote gets flaky or has a fault...it will CHANGE the parameters and all sort of "bugs" come to life. I had to replace mine. Many do... NOW...if all is well and you have no issues....let it RUN for a few days. Next...you can plug in the Bat Temp Switch....or you can "MOUNT IT" on the side of the case of the rear battery. When that Thermocouple shorts out....it does STRANGE things to the system. It is strictly a Thermocouple and when it is mounted on the rear negative terminal....if it shorts....it will cause issues. It is SUPPOSED to be electrically isolated and all there is is a Circuit from it to the Inverter and the inverter is reading the THERMOCOUPLE... SO, if you hook it up and problems....either discard or mount on the side (to the case) or get a new one. ODDS ARE, it is NOT the NETWORK cable, assuming you have an AGS. That's the drill. Past that.... when it does it again...shoot a picture of the error code. Call Magnum....they are GREAT. Tell them WHAT you did and such and they will start to trouble shoot. BUT, the above is how you clean things up and they suggest you do that....and then call back.. BTW... The above has "fixed" at least 10 or so inverters that the soft reset and "Gremlins" were in. IF the remote is BAD...,then replace. Mine would reset the voltages and also the size of the battery bank...and then the inverter would sometimes NOT come on when AC was off or vice versa when turning off AC and needing Inverted power. I spent several weeks with Magnum on the phone testing...and this is the gist of what I learned... Good Luck....keep us posted.

I can't recall what bolts are used on the Roadmaster... PROBABLY a Grade 8. That has 5 marks. If it is a Grade 5, it will have 3 marks. https://www.melfast.com/blog/2014/03/a-mini-guide-on-grade-8-bolts#:~:text=Despite the popular belief%2C a,constructions or the automotive industry. Despite the popular belief, a stainless steel bolt is actually weaker than a grade 8 bolt. In fact, according to the Society of American Engineers (SAE), grade 8 bolts are the strongest and hardest hex bolt you would want to use in constructions or the automotive industry. While the carbon alloy bolts have a proof load of over 120,000 psi, their stainless steel counterparts don't carry an indicative proof load. Moreover, the minimum strength of grade 8 bolts is around 130,000 psi, whereas stainless steel strength doesn't exceed 90,000 psi. OK...for the Real information, either go to the IFI and research or you can use this chart. SS is a term. What is NEEDED is the TYPE or GRADE. https://boltdepot.com/Fastener-Information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart However, and I was the Chief Engineer for a large Fastener Manufacturer.....here is the simple chart. https://boltdepot.com/Fastener-Information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart IF the Hitch came, which I THINK most do, with Grade 8 bolts...and SS was substituted....then there is probably a reduction in the tensile strength of the bolts. I would ALSO only USE FLAT WASHERS.... not split washers. I discussed with the Roadmaster and they agreed, in writing, based on actually calling their vendor. Their kits were older technology and with the newer Electronic Lab and QC equipment....the Industry standard changed. USE FLAT WASHERS. Roadmaster said..."Well, they have worked for a long time...maybe something we look into". SO...for the ultimate....use Grade 8 and Flat Washer and Loctite RED. That is what the specs say. You CAN take apart a Loctite RED assembly by heating the bolt head with a "Pencil Tip" torch. I remove Loctite Red Screws from Rifle Mounts....for folks that should have used Loctite Blue or Green. Some thought it was permanent and they needed to remove the scope. Just a little patience and understanding and being careful That's my take and background and information.

LAST DITCH. Swap the BOARDS. That is the ONLY THING LEFT. Try that.... BTW... DID you take the Front Thermostat and plug it in or use it in the REAR? Assumed you did...but if not....try that. Otherwise....swap the boards. Good Luck. Thanks for the feedback. Let us know...

@Garry Donohue PM @Frank McElroy. He is an electonics wizard. He will repair and test the board.

Most of Monaco’s pumps were direct of hard plumbed with PEX. (Or equivalent). Some of the lines were laying of floor of bay where pump was. The vibrations from the pump would lack like a” “bass drum” in that the pex would vibrate up and down and “smack” the floor. NOISE. See below. You need or most do, one on each end. That solves it. Hope this helps….probably some pictures here, but the concept is simple. May be a video on Youtube on “reduce rv water pump vibration”. Folks that used the 2 X 8 (or whatever width you need) pad with rubber underneath it and the loops said that they could barely hear the pump. In SOME cases, Monaco dropped down the pex and didn’t run on the floor. Mine is on floor and I put Pipe Insulation (split in half) under the pex and that fixed mine… NOT all need it…but raising and protecting the pump and the flex line loops is the first class way…and you got a first class rig…LOL.