Tom Cherry

Great. Unusual for that many fuses to pop.. read this. Great for understanding MPX. Next one is Frank’s PRIMER…

His pictures show manual switches. Frank and I concluded no MPX. That’s all the info I have. Now, if these switches are part of an MPX, all bets are off. The only SLIDE prints were very inconclusive. Most focused on Elextric. He said HWH and hears the Motor running. So, that was our logic. I guess we see after he responds. FORGOT to post. ALL of a sudden, his Driver’s came to life this morning. GREAT….retracted them. OPPS….now Passenger, which was working when he started post, is dead. My take….loose wires on Pump Solenoid. But who knows….if he responds….can ask questions….

Joe, Glad you are making progress. Ron texted me earlier today. Been outside recovering our screened porch from the “code 5 pollen season”. Ron called a mobile tech. Had sent him the print and went over circuit. No feedback. Guess we just wait….

Unless you KNOW the present accumulator is “absolutely perfect” as in the internal bladder is water tight, you might want to cap off the fitting and pull it out. Weighing it and comparing to the same one….to determine if there is water on the air bladder side or the ever popular “shake and slosh” test is the only way. many folks here use a 2X 8, pressure treated pad. They screw it down to a 1/4” hard rubber sheet or something to prevent vibration. Then they use the 18” Loops. You can buy the 1/2” reinforced tubing at Lowes and make the inlet and outlet vibration reduction loops. That really makesthe pump almost silent. Assume you also ordered the check assembly or the backflow preventer for the outlet….otherwise, install a hard plumbed one. That is a nice looking Dynasty. The 2008 would be my choice…..sharp

Sounds logical to me. Not my experience. My only comment, my daughter and GD had issues with shower flow when shampooing and rinsing hair. Quickly found out. The inline garden hose flow regulators not only reduced pressures but also “halved” the flow. So, with a 5 GPM whole house filter, I could only get 2 or 3 GPM out of shower. BUT, with the Remco, it was a full 5 PLUS GPM. Let them use pump when showering. Then, got smart….bought a REAL high flow Valterra pressur controller. MY POINT. Family needs and preferences often factor into purchases and features. I can NOT go back to half flow….or I lose my “lady family members”. Just evaluate all aspects of the “needs” or parameters. If you want to test low flow….use an inline one or cut back on the CG faucet….and measure….if all is well and everyone happy…go for it. Real bummer about the Remco….wonder if Remco is now outsourcing and no longer buying from AquaTech like they did for years after they bought the rights and name?.?

Can’t help you there….but low voltages are a PITA. They also damage and eventually kill motors. When the voltage drops, then the motor says….gotta pull more amps….big time. Motors are rated in watts…VOLTS times AMP. So a 960 Watt motor (FLA of 80) times 12 equals 960. Drop to 10 VDC. OPPS 96 AMPS….Lower….worse it gets. My Lippert slide was rated at 65 FLA and Monaco goofed. Removed the recommended 80 A and put in a 150. When there was a loose motor lead and low volts….i pulled 140 A. Motor was toasted. Fixed connection. Switched from House to Chassis…. But, it was costly. $1,700 For new pump and valve unit. Labor took that up to $2,500. Be surprised how much you learn about phsics and circuits and electrical knowledge when it hits your pocket book. @throgmartin is the slide guy. All my stuff was general based on folks problems over the years and helping offline troubleshooting…..

Been a fan of them since day one when they were AquaTech. Remember to buy the BACKFLOW PART. @Scotty Hutto wrote about this. Many RV manufacturers are plumbing in a hard BF or check valve. That is reason it is no longer included. As to accumulator….my “gist” of all the comments…. AquaTech was adamant. Do not use. Many have used them. Personal choice. Does it make a difference? Not in mine. Wotks great. If I were a fan of accumulators, I would try it….and plug off the connection to my accumulator. Most have found that age gets to accumulators. Those of us always on a well know that they go bad and the diaphragm gets pinhole leaks and you have to “re-air”. An accumulator is the same as a “well tank”. AquaTech said a faulty or leaking accumulator sort of drove the pressure regulator chip or board “crazy”. It would cycle on, sometimes at night and folks complain. Not the pump’s fault….it just turned on when system pressure dropped. The RV55 has avariable speed regulator so it starts to slow doen the pump or “growls” at the end. A faulty accumulator exacerbates that. But again….your call. I would guess a majority , if not a large portion don’t have or eliminated their accumulator. NO KNOCKING folks that feel they improve system….we each have our own criteria… Folks will respond….highly discussed topic every time it comes up.

Joe, Frank and I believe that your system is the same as the 2005 Exec...thus the combining or merging. I would do the following. Get a long piece of Lamp Cord...18 Gauge is fine. Need some alligator clips or dual alligator lead clips. On the Driver's side....hook up the lamp cord to either of the two solenoids. Then, run that to your VOM and cycle the slides. IF you get an instant 12 VDC on either direction....then the SIGNAL is OK. IF you get an intermittent, then there is a problem...possibly incoming power to the switches (common from the Lockout) or a bad connection down stream. If the fuse is good, you will get instant power. IF IT is erratic...check the fuse. NO JOY. Then cycle the slides. You SHOULD always HOLD IN the button, either way for a count of maybe 3 until you hear the pitch of the motor change. Cycle this a few times either way to get any trapped air our of the system. PAST THAT... it may be mechanical. The fact the the PUMP is running means that the switch power is OK....and if it continues to run...then if the solenoids are getting power....then you know electrically...all is well. The odds or BOTH solenoids going bad? LOW. But, many have had issues. There is ONE thing you can try. IF you are getting a LOW VOLTAGE to the motor...then it WILL... I KNOW THIS...be UGLY. IF you use your lamp cord and hook it up to the MOTOR LEADS... Run the Passenger Slides. Look at the MOTOR voltage. NOW, do the same with the Driver's slides. IF there is a Voltage drop...that means that the Passenger (usually shorter and lighter) is easier to MOVE. The WAY TO TEST THAT.. Use a Jumper Cable from the Chassis to the HOUSE. SHORE ON. THEN run the slides. If the Voltage on the Drivers drops LESS, then you have an issue with the wiring to the MOTOR or you have weak House. ONE THING.... Do some PM and clean the GROUNDS on BOTH banks behind the battery boxes (BOTH BATTERIES OFF). Then go up front and find the GROUND side of the motor. Clean the GROUND stud for that as well. I had an issue....lower voltage...and it was a ground issue... Cleaned all grounds. WORKED. Many causes... you have to narrow down and eliminate each one. IF you have a major difference in each side's voltage...then use your vehicle and jump GROUND to GROUND and then put your vehicle's positive to the INCOMING side of the Solenoid. IF that speeds it up...wiring. IF NOT...mechanical... Good Luck...

OK...for those not following. Ron and I and Frank McElroy have talked some. The INTELLITEC MPX system has an HWH Control Box. We THINK that the system here is the original one. We can NOT find, in the 2005 Exec prints....a copy of the Driver's and Passenger's HWH slides...but this "optional" rear Bedroom Slide's is the same circuit that has been used before. Frank and I talked. The 2005 Exec drawings that we have are an abortion. BUT, I DID find ONE print. This is for a PAIR of Rear Slides. SO....your have a PAIR of slides up front. I searched the PDF for HWH...NOPE. Then SLIDES. Found this one. Here is the deal. The Switches get power from a separate source. As in, the lockout relay....which is also controlled or has lockouts for the DOORS or BAYS. The incoming power for the switch goes up to the Pump Solenoid. When the MOTOR runs... the same POWER to the MOTOR sends a signal, via a 15 Amp Fuse, to the Solenoids... BUT, there is a SET of contacts on the Switch that control that.... THEN, the switch sends it out to the proper solenoid. CONFUSING...YES...it has taken me years. When you push the switch, either way, ONE side of the switch sends power (either way) to the Solenoid. THEN the solenoid closes....and then the FUSED signal comes down to the Switch...on the OTHER SIDE or a separate set of contacts. Depending on WHICH way (retract or extend), then the switch energized the proper solenoid. MY THEORY.... The FUSE BLEW. YES, the Switch will WORK...as it is powered from a separate source. YES....the motor starts...as that is powered from the Lockout relay. BUT, then the power to the Motor comes back down to the switch (other side) and then the direction or RET or EXT is controlled by the switch and it then energizes the correct solenoid. OK...HOW TO TEST. IF you measure the EXTEND Solenoid....then I'll wager (think) that you will NOT see power there either. SO, in essence....the entire SLIDE is dead...It won't GO either way. I have NO IDEA, nor does Frank, as to where that fuse is. I suspect it is at the PUMP SOLENOID. IF I am RIGHT....then if you follow the power out of the SOLENOID to the motor...there should be THREE small wires as well. Each one is for EACH slide. There SHOULD be three FUSES... One for EACH slide. If the Driver's SLIDE doesn't work....then it would NOT MOVE either way. Replace the FUSE... NOW...NO JOY. THEN, run a lamp cord line to the solenoid. One side from the PUMP MOTOR side of the solenoid and a GROUND. Hook at up to the Solenoid. IF I am right...your slide will come in. You will have to locate, in the future the fuse. THE OTHER OPTION. You have a BAD SWITCH. ONE SIDE works. The OTHER doesn't... You COULD (take pictures and label), SWAP the switches...and that should make them work... That's it... rear bedroom hwh slide 2005 Dynasty and up.pdf

Comment, hopefully for clarity. The DEMCO AirForceOne braking system that has a small actuating cylinder that you hook up or attach to the brake pedal. The air signal from the MH modulates it and it applies progressive braking. Many are fans of it. The M&G Braking system is a "Pneumatic" system where there is a "Actuator Module" or device that is added between the master cylinder and the vehicle's vacuum powered (now with the electric ABS like my previous Hummer H3 had...I don't know how the would or if they could do it). Thus, when you apply the coach brakes, the rears are the first to engage...then continued pedal pressure or force is modulated and the front brakes are applied. Since the M&G device actually operates the brake lever or treadle as we call it, there is NOTHING to hookup. I LIKE THAT. I installed it on my 2016 Yukon and have over 40K of towing. The way the systems are activated is an "AIR SIGNAL" from one of the rear brakes. A "T" is put in the line. M&G runs this directly to a Quick Disconnect fitting in the rear and you "plug in the vehicle". AirForceOne has a different system. The signal or applying the brakes also has a "T", I think... that is in the line to one of the rear brake cannisters. However, there are check valves and a cannister and such so that the "BRAKING AIR" is NOT used....and the MH's "air system" is supposed to then apply the brakes so that there is NOT a direct use of the Braking air or if there is a hose rupture the braking system is not compromised. The components in the pictures were identified by some as AirForceOne and then the topic continued. Here is the Demco Manual if anyone is interested. I have the M&G and only have the simple "T" and am, potentially, however great or small, at the braking line being compromised. There have been no reports here of such. As a precaution, I ran the 1/2" line inside a 3/8" air line as a "conduit" to prevent accidental damage. I also researched, online, and found to no issues or reports of problems with the M&G. This topic is about a "leaning" condition...and there is now an AFO installation on the MH. Whether that is the issue or not... Don't know. Whether the AFO system's instructions said to tap into a "leveling" system... Don't know. But, since this something that many are not familiar with...the above.... Here is the Demco manual if one is curious. I WILL say that the M&G works flawlessly....and I highly recommend it. Hope this clarifies it and then one can understand the comments.... https://cdn.demco-products.com/documents/Manuals/AF0108-Manual.pdf

That is exactly what I expected. WOW, FWIW... Every time I have selected a vendor or baseplate manufacturer, I downloaded the prints and instructions and Roadmaster always, from an engineering or design standpoint, was more robust.... typically had an additional fastener and/or had larger diameter fasteners. Thanks for sharing... no matter how "RIGHT" one does it...sometimes things break. That is why safety chains and a braking system is so important. I have lost my design engineer contact at Roadmaster....otherwise I would send it to you. But I have always had great response from one of their engineers if I had a technical question. Glad you caught it...

Which Brand? Did you use Loctite Red on all fasteners during assembly. Did you use torque wrench for final tightening? Roadmaster sends split lock nuts. The IFI (PATRON SAINT of fastener manufacturer) has changed recommendations and they (confirmed with 2 well known manufacturers) now recommend FLAT WASHERS…not split washers. Curiosity. I’m on my third TOAD. Been lucky, I guess. Total of 80K or more. Thanks for the post

Short answer…no way to know. With the AFO Manual, you have the inatructions for install..reverse…and uninstall. As stated, you NEVER know if it was done correctly, but take off what was added…. BTW, You may have a leaky valve. Until you. Identify what ain’t needed…a guess

Question is….re AirForceONE…. Did a previous owner have one installed. If you crawl under and look at the cannisters from the rear brakes….there will be a “T”, I THINK going to “somewhere”. The other side will NOT have one. The AFO works when you apply brakes….an AIR signal to the rear. The AFO system is more complex than the M&G…. The AFO then has a “system” and check valves to prevent a bleed down. If you have had MH since new…obviously NOT. BUT who knows what the PO did. If you are curious….download the AFO manual. There are pictures of air circuit and the additional components. I have the M&G and all I have is the T. Now, if you have left over AFO parts….undo. FWIW…NEVER, EVER depend on a PO to have installed or had installed something RIGHT. We have seen folks cut into hoses or wires that were absolutely the WRONG ONE. I would NOT have thought that the AFO air supply, which is different from the brake line T signal, would have been plumbed in to the leveling system…. BUT, after 16 years of reading most every post and helping troubleshoot…..Nothing, quite literally, surprises me. May not solve the issue…but if you are not PO, then eliminating the AFO system by looking at their manual is the only way to be sure. Someone may solve it….but if one of the candidates is AFO….gotta chase hoses… Good Luck….let us know… Thanks,

OK. Lets stop and chat. First….was the solenoid coil and pigtail hooked up. If so and you measured 7 VDC, PROBABLY bad coil. Now….if UNPLUGGED and you measured. OPPS!! OTHER ISSUES. I would do this. Isolate and find each of the Passenger Slide solenoid slides. THEN, measure one as it moves the slide…. Then measure the voltage on the pigtail to it….NOT PLUGGED in. You will see anywhere from 12.7 VDC (no Shore) up to 13.1 or so (higher if the Magnum is in Bulk Charge). That would be the NORMAL NO LOAD Voltage from the switch. When the coil is hooked up, it will drop down….probably not that much. BUT if the coil is shorted….and it is high resistance….it will drop. You may have done that or know that, but some folks don’t…. The REASON….Monaco did some funky things. I can’t find a good print on the “rest” of the system. I can see the switches. ON SOME HWH systems, there is a “BOX” (clear?) that the switches feed and there are two outputs. One goes directly to the pump solenoid…..that starts the pump. That happens on ANY of the switches. The second is the CORRECT output to the solenoid. If you have this and are only getting 7 VDC….an issue. NOW….you need to check the NO LOAD (Pigtail unplugged) Voltage….if 12 VDC….great. BUT, comparison when you don’t have circuits is the next. Compare load and NO LOAD on a working one. THAT WAY YOU KNOW. I’d do that before I ordered parts. If the OTHERS have 12 VDC Load (plugged in) and No Load…. YOU’RE on the right track. Good Luck…

GOOD CATCH….I did at least 10 of these yearerday. My iPad will NOT Copy and Paste the links to our files. I have to paste and recopy (PITA) the link in a email format. Here is the one that I MEANT to include….Thanks. Totally agree with you. Don’t do anything until you reboot or refresh the system. The problem that @Constwkr or Dan has here is a “CLASSIC” of a faulty reboot or killing power. I DID THAT. Took Frank M and myself a few minutes to troubleshoot and analyze. You will also, possibly, have a circuit that will light up on one keypad,,but be DEAD on another….and all the other individual buttons light and such. A REBOOT where there is a momentary contact….then off…then on drives a MPX crazy…. TRUST ME. I disconnected the positive on my 16 Vette and added a ring terminal for an external maintainer. Next service….OMG….the tech paniced…he cleared the 20 or so codes…..all was well. He wanted to know “How did you do that?”…. One OTHER OMG is that Monaco daisy chained some switches…..instead of putting them in parallel. My GUT says reboot. YES…you can loose a switch….but that is usually ONE….and not random on others as the whole MPX Data Buss is a loop. I will edit the other post.. here is the correct one, that i meant to post.

I’d call Blue Seas. They are great on specific instructions. Past that, I cannot recall if anyone has had an ML-ACR long enough to need to clean the contacts. I SUSPECT that a latching coil is used. The Big Boy always turns on and off when you remove AC power….or when you don’t need BIRD charging….so it cycles … Maybe you can “make me smart”….does the ML-ACR cycle on and off. The Salesman switch works great for most….as in it Latches IN or OUT. BUT, it was a poor design. Folks that constantly turn it on and off have issues. In addition, it was a bit undersized. Technically, one should shut off ALL DC devices….such as lights and fans and turn off ALL AC items. Then TURN IT OFF. It works GREAT for Dynasty and up, who don’t use it as a Master Light Switch. They power all off. Then they turn off the Battery Cutoff switch….wait….then back on. That reboots the Intellitec MPX. A LOT more convenient than going outside and flipping switches….

All good information….maybe a few caveats….you did NOT SPECIFY the inverter brand. BATTERY TEMP SENSOR. Be cautious. If the sensor is defective, which is why a lot have been removed, it could cause the inverter to shut down or act erratically or drive you crazy. This impacts the Magnum as well as Trace/Xantrex/Freedom brands. The BTS is SUPPOSED to go on the most REAR Negative terminal. BUT, if it shorts to “Ground” you will have issues. Many folks do NOT use their BTS….pulled it. Many folks will affix it to the case of the most rear battery and do NOT want it connected “elextrically”. It is a thermocouple….that’s it….there is no mystical circuit interaxtion with the negative. You want it to “read”, like a contact thermocouple the case or battery temperature. A piece of Gorilla tape to hold it to the case….then daisy chain zip ties for a circumferential attaching back works. Battery Cut Off Switches. YES….Chassis HOUSE….it depends. Yours is PROBABLY YES. But later on, at least in 2005 or so. NOPE! Monaco cabled the inverter directly to the House. There was a 300A fuse (lower ends) and a 400A fuse Dynasty and above. Folks have gone crazy finding that fuse as they were told the Inverter was “Direct”. Turn OFF the house and chassis. Disconnect the solar or cover the solar panel. Use a VOM and measure the rear Positive to GROUND….let the inverter sit…as there may be a stray capacitor that shows voltage. For example…a Fused (not connected via the House Disconnect Magnum inverter) inverter on the later models….NEVER shuts OFF….from the control panel inside…You have to MANUALLY do a shutdown…. Folks swore that when the lights inside were OFF….it was OFF. Nope…it was just in a standby mode….and like a TV, it has a parasitic load and WILL run down house batteries. BEST SOURCE….Download or look at your prints. Or the manual. Even though you will get excellent information here, sometimes there are blanket statements that are used….and the subtle nuances like the above, as some assumed that ALL MONACO rigs were 100% alike, electrically. This causes folks to go down paths that are incorrect and in some cases, they made modifications that were incorrect trying to make theirs…..”like the rest”. Welcome….

BINGO. If you caged and drove it….and then went back to “auto” and the brake switch ain’t releasing….time to do some exploratory surgery and see what ails the patient…. A NEW Nassan (spelling) switch might be a good investment….especially for your mental health and well being….

I FORGOT about the Basement Vacuum. BY CODE....that outlet is considered as an "OUTDOOR". My Camelot has TWO outlets in a bay. One on the Driver's side is the Vacuum. There is a similar outlet on the Curb (Passenger) side of that bay. THOSE outlets run off the GFCI. As they are OUTDOOR and one could be using a power tool out there. OK... I need to readdress this... I answered about 10 of these this afternoon and my brain was FRIED....so let's DO IT AGAIN... If you FOUND TWO RUNS, on the GFCI....then you have the better system. The 2007's had a funky system. There were TWO GFCI's. NOT GOOD...but you have two runs and ONE GFCI. Replace the GFCI...on General principles. AGE Takes it toll....look at my body... LOL... Next. Use wire nuts and temporarily hook up the LINE to each. The ONE that feeds the Refrigerator ICEMAKER is where the problem is. NOW... MOVE that line up to the LINE SIDE of the NEW GFCI. That will fix it. Your ICEMAKER has a SMALL LEAK. TOTALLY (I am an EX Safety Director and taught the NEW OSHA Electrical Regs) SAFE. When you put the ICEMAKER circuit on the LINE...it becomes a Dedicated Circuit. You will NEVER see any issues. The leak in the icemaker is miniscule. You MAY, and as I said....I had the DOMETIC, have a defrost coil in there.. ONCE you move the ICEMAKER Circuit to the LINE....DRIVE ON. You can replace the ICEMAKER... Many USED to buy them from LOWES...they were universal. Start GOOGLING... There are or is a LOT of cross referenced parts for the 1402....that is... IF YOU WANT the ICEMAKER. IF NOT....go inside and unplug it on the inside....not hard to do. I included the NEW manual for the Dometic. You can also find the PARTS list....and get the number. I replaced mine with a Samsung...so I don't have all the old information. THAT'S IT. Problem solved... NOW, you can start on other adventures... NEW & Released Dometic-NDA1402-Service-Manual.pdf

YES….Frank is the expert. NO….not an issue with either the Intellitec MPX lighting or the K’Berg CCM. This is an AC POWER issue. The MPX and CCM are DC control systems…..and NOT in the AC power incoming side. We need to KNOW where the Surge Guard is (external on pedestal) or hard wired interior WITH pictures….wrong rabbit hole…. Thanks…. Richard….correct. IF the “RV Surge Guard Power Monitor” is, INDEED….the Surge Guard Automatic Transfer Switch and the “display”, then totally agree… odds are….in order… Bad Pedestal….and Park problem…. Bad Power Plug….in that the ground wire in the molded connector has “popped” loose. Very common. Don’t USE AC until you replace plug…. Loose Ground Connection in a Junction Box …..rarely a “bad ground wire in power cable). Loose Conneection inside ATS…..tighten it up…. BAD ATS….as in the monitoring is bad. The GROUND is NOT SWITcHED….Hard wired inside fhe ATS. Past that….pure speculation. PICTURES….is the “Power Monitor” the ATS or does he have a external one or an “add on” that was hared wired in AC circuit??

Fix number one. ASSUME your Battery Cutoff Switch up front is functional and NOT Bypassed. Turn OFF the switch (push the bottom). All Interior lights will go off. Now wait about 5 minutes. Whilst waiting….go to each “not working” switch and push in any switch a few times…..naybe hold 5 seconds or so. NOW….. TURN BACK ON battery. Push TOP of switch. That usually work. You just rebooted the CPU that rins the MPX. Trust me on this. I have the NON CPU system. What happens….and I did it. I removed cables from house bank and did NOT kill the Battery Disconnect Switch. Just the erratic bumping or pulsing on the terminals messed up the Boot Cycle. OK….the MPX…. Here is how it works. Flaky switches can be a “BAD” Boot or reset….or bad connection to wiring harness (when multiple) …like yours or BAD SWITCH. PROBABLY ONE OFVTHE FIRST TWO. @Frank McElroy & @pwhittle are out resiurced….they can repair boards for 20% of the vebdor do the above.

No need to test or fool with the refrigerator. If there is a leak in the heater in the mold….it will work fine on a dedicated NON GFCI cicuit. Read somewhere that 50% of home refrigerators have a NON LETHAL LEAK….and would trip a GFCI, BUT,,by code….their on Dedicated NON GFCI breakers. NEED to. get NEW GFCI. THEN wire nut and identify the two branch (HOPEFULLY) circuits. Then put refrigerator icemaker circuit, which runs off GFCI, on the LINE side. That might fix your issues. My 2009 DOM 1402 tripped the OEM GFCI. REPLACED in 2013….and rewired or reconfigured it. Nary a bobble..and RES Samsung runs like a champ…

His is different. FRONT Thermostat only controls front unit. One DATA COMMUNICATION CABLE (NOT PHONE) from Thermostat to plenum. Them attached to one of the dangling connctors. He HAS power (12 VDC) to top control unit, otherwise Thermostat would not be functional.. HIS rear controls bedroom and then middle. Might have a zone 4…. @grizzly I’D SWAP THERMOSTATS FIRST. EASY. Just RESET each. You HAVE 12 VDC on a pair (2 wires) of the Two Pair (4 wire) phone cable. That is what makes Thermostat light up. Power comes from front control unit. The OTHER pair is a “Multiplexed” signal. It is NOT an on or off. Pull front. Clean the data cable and the thermostat female end….plug and unplug a few times….reset….NO JOY YOU CAN take the front Thermostat to the rear. Plug it in there. The. RESET. If it runs the rear systems, then NOT the Thermostat. There is NOTHING to set or change….plug and play. That is easiest…..eliminate components. NEXT UP http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/operating/Installation_CCC2 with separate control box_3312792.017.pdf go to page 8. The cables are called DATA COMMUNICATIONS CABLES…..NOT TELEPHONE CABLES. Order a new one from Amazon. OR…Take Thermostat, assuming it worked on rear. Plug it into one of the dangling wires from the control. RESET. IF it works…..bad cable….we can tell you how you fix,,,, BUT….NO JOY…..Swap controllers….if that fixes….new controller. The above is the easiest and most logical procedure…. HAVE AT IT. REALLY CLEANING GOOD is important. I carry spare connectors….had to clean 3 TIMES and reseat….4 years ago….still working.

Probably Semantics. The fans are a “switched on” FUSED (I thnink) OUPUT of the control board. They are always ON or HOT when the refrigerator is running. The control board does not cycle them on or off or provide any “control” for the fans. The fin thermostat provides that.