Tom Cherry

I would suspect the pedestal. Was this OPEN NEUTRAL or OPEN GROUND. Open NEUTRAL is UGLY…. If you ran it, you would have mega $$ damage as the 120 VAC turns in to 160 - 180VAC and destroys TV, AC, Microwave, Refrigerator….you name it….it ain’t happy. Is the Surge Guard a pedestal item or built in or hardwired. We need that and pictures of the Surge Guard…..depending on WHERE the Surge Guard is….in the system….if it is plug in….move to another site. If it does it there, then I have a good idea. BTW….the Surge Guard is supposed to be ONLY on the incomimg AC line. It is not needed, nor should be between the ATS and the main panel. The ATS is downstream of the Surge Guard. It is reading the INCOMING power. The Genny is NOT SUPPOSED to be in the circuit….so it will work. Thanks….

YES and NO. The control board does not, as long as the refrigerator is ON and RUNNING, do any “controlling”. There is a constant 12 VDC from the board that goes up to the Snap Disk Thermostat and that actually controls the fans. So….operating in low temps….all ok. No fans needed…..opposite for high. There MAY be a thermistor in the circuit and goes to the control board and it will shut down if something is amiss to keep from damaging the cooling unit. But the Upper Thermostat controls the fans to keep the “flue” or the air flow within a specific operating range…and that thermostat controls that. I never remember NOT having voltage to the fan thermostat. Pull the Norcold Manual….it tells all about it and how to test… Again….from memory and lots of “experiments”. BUT only the circuit and the manual will confirm. Very specific procedures for trouble shooting. The approach I laid out ASSUMES full time voltage….which I THINK is correct….

Bummer. Here’s the realities of your situation. Your Chassis Batteries are toast. MOST Chassis are sealed. If so, unless you want to do exploratory surgery, the electrolyte was boiled off. I THINK you meant the “voltmeter” was showing 10 VDC. They will eventually flake off all the lead oxide coating on the plates.due to being overheated and there is probably some areas above the electrolyte level on the plates that are dry. Your House needs to be serviced as in replenish the elecrolyte with Distilled Water and hope for the best. I’m VERY SUSPICIOUS that Your Alternator’s voltage regulator is probably the culprit….unless you had a horrible case of the alternator belt failing. The traditional approach. Find a good TRUCK/BUS electrical shop and have the 200 A Leece Neville REBUILT. Insist that the shop only purchase the parts from Leece Neville and NOT install sftrmarket items. Do NOT SCRIMP. Replace all diodes…..testing and salvaging is false economy. Much cheaper than a new one. UNLESS the shop is really sharp, an aftermarket replacement is iffy. Search here for DUVAC. Use the box at the upper right. Click on Everywhere and choose TOPICS. Sit down….it’s gonna be pages and pages….but this is the best information in North America on the Monaco electrical system and LN Alternators. Don’t waste money on any isolator replacement. Order the plain Jane Blue Seas ML-ACR and install it. Forget the “up front” remote. If you ever need to use the BOOST… get out…walk to the ML-ACR. Put it in MANUAL as in ON. Use the boost. Then walk back and set to AUTO. Now you will also have FULL TIME BIRD BiDirectional charging….a luxury you do not have now. THATS MY TAKE….based on the limited information you posted…..more detail? Maybe be different….but s high probability that the altenator/voltage regulator failed…. Others will chime in with specific questions and assist….but here is where I’d start. I WOULD put in the ML-ACR….get rid of the early 2000 technology that never worked and convert to a solid BIRD system. Good Luck….

Assume you mean, as the member suggested, the remote Start Switch in the rear. Often times it gets bumped….but usually when there is engine work. However, cycling the switch, ignition off, of course, will clean the contacts. IT DOES PREVENT the engine from starting up front. Next up….the Ignition switches have been an issue….not a biggie, but will DIE. There is a “connector” that the switch plugs into or mates with. Make sure it is tight and seated. We have had folks with 07 and up that had “strange” things happen…turned on switch and the Aladdin was “flaky”. Finally figured out if he wiggled or jiggled the key, in the ON position, there was an intermittent. I’d play around a little. Also fuses in the RRB as well as maybe a BOSCH relay back there. Other thing….if you are able….crawl under the beast….take a Maglite LED and “LOOK”. One recent incident…..pulled in for fuel….didn’t hit a lick for a long time. Mechanic came out…..TOW! Member persevered and found a loose wire dangling. He crimped on a new terminal. BINGO problem solved. These are incidents within the past few months…..not “well, way back when…..” There are 14 pages of a key word search…Dynasty Start. Good reading….you learn to scroll, but the fuses and such are discussed and most were simple….best resource you can have….here is the link. https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=Dynasty start &quick=1&type=forums_topic Have at it…. EDIT….one OTHER THING…. Your Chassis MAY BE DOWN. One of our experts and I have discovered….when you heat up an engine…..and then shut down…..if you wait 10 - 15 minutes…..the heat sink effect of no coolant increase the compression. You turn the key….OMG…it ain’t….then it fires…we KNOW we will put in batteries within a Year. KNOW you said you use the boost. BUT if the Big Boy’s contacts are corroded….or if the coil is bad….or a bad #6 BOARD….no Boost. Turn on key. Have someone push boost after you are back there. Have your hand on Big Boy….you should hear it go CLUNK. No CLUNK…no work. We have folks here that can fix a defective #6 Big Boy/Boost control board. You can clean contacts in 30 minutes. Don’t want to do that now. Turn off batteries at switch. Put a Jumper cable bewteen the Positives of the Hiuse and Chassis. Turn switches back on. Start generator ….let it run for 10 minutes or so. NOW TRY to start and leave key in start for maybe 10 seconds….you should have enough juice….no start….not batteries….

Fascinating…..never depend on Monaco and sales brochure. We are all on the same page….rusted or frozen “brake shoes”. I pulled your brochure. Says, unless i MISREAD…..YOU GOT DRUMS?? Bottom line, I’m putting my money on the same color and number as the rest.. Now about them front’s? We pull manuals and brochures to help folks. LOL

PROGRESS. As suspected....NO INTELLITEC MPX. That is GOOD. Right now, finding the connectors (M-32) would be MY next task.. IT MAY be only a solenoid issue. What I would do.... I'd put two paper clips (straightened or use needles and get into each of the solenoid plugs....or remove them. Then USE the switches. You SHOULD have voltage from the RETRACT switch to the RETRACT solenoid...and Vice Versa. IF you have voltage, when you push the switch, momentarily....then it is a SOLENOID issue. BUT, if you do NOT have voltage....then it is an upstream condition. The easy FIX....if you don't have voltage.... TEST the EXTEND. There is NO LIMIT switch. SO, you can check it. Actually, the M32 Connector has the right PINS. If you find it....you can test. IF FOR SOME reason, no voltage....Then, get a "hot wire and a GROUND. Hook up the ground. The GROUND pin can probably be tested with a VOM on OHMS or Continuity. SO... Used the Hot Wire....have you partner retract the slide...and you put Voltage on the Solenoid... IT HAS BEEN DONE BEFORE....TRUST ME. Then the SLIDE is in....and you can deal with it later. That's sort of my approach... Getter to get it "temporarily" fixed now than fret and fiddle for a week. UNFORTUNATELY....that slide is so heavy it would take a PRO Football Offensive Line to push it in or a big TRACTOR and a big piece of plywood. Good Luck.... Keep up posted. VERIFY voltage to the solenoids. Don't be too hammer happy....The diagrams, I THINK, give you the codes...

We each have our own "knowledge and opinion" It is MUCH easier to put in additional exhaust (as in improved cooling) through a roof vent....as in the Norcold is NOT on a slide. Many of us have jury rigged up additional cooling....that is why I fully understand HOW the system works and the controls... RATHER than having to figure out HOW to get good exhaust. The exterior, sidewall vent on a slide has several "air flow and thermodynamic" issues....which the roof vent does not. I'd consider myslef LUCKY it is NOT on a slide. Many of us have accomplished that and improved the cooling, marginally, and it was a PITA. Having a simple roof vent where you can put in a few "greater" CFM fans and exhaust it up is much better...and if the fans are the issue, easier and more efficient. Right not, I'd focus on WHAT the issue is...as in do the troubleshooting... THEN formulate the best solution...

Frank beat me to it….. CCM ONLY. Have you seen this?..

Credit Card companies THRIVE on helping customers....as that loyalty pays off. AMEX is one of the best....but MOST will side with YOU. HOPE you have that option. Call and make notes as to WHOM you talked to and their answer. NO JOY....Then you have your "FIRST STEP" completed. Call the CC company...and then do a DISPUTE... Worked for me several times when concealed damage or parts replaced not needed....and I had to have it REPAIRED again. Good Luck...

When you read this....you are going to go screaming down the hall and bang your head. Monaco never uses a BLACK wire for GROUND. Also, all the Radio and Stereos and aftermarket upgrades from cars are a MIXED BAG. You need to identify the wire and how it is to be connected. The old days of RED is positive and BLACK be negative are gone. BTW. If you look carefully at your Monaco ALL WHITE (usually #12 wires), you will see Screen Printed Labels or ID's on them. Welcome to the MH's OWNERS Counseling group. Alcohol is NOT allowed.... Glad you got the plug fixed....

OK...here's my take...based on the info above. You have the SPLIT system, most likely, in the GFCI. There are TWO circuit coming from the Inverter. ONE is for for the Microwave. That is dedicated and wired directly from the Inverter to the receptacle in the cabinet above the microwave. The OTHER circuit is for the REST of the MH. If you look (and this is from memory....check the drawings) at the BACK of the GFCI and read the labels on the terminals. There is a LINE IN.. That is a single Black/White from a piece of Romex. There is PROBABLY TWO on the other end. Both are connected to the LOAD (out). One goes to the OUTLETS...the ones near the sinks. CODE requires them. The FRONT outlet and the "ICEMAKER" outlet behind the refrigerator...and MAYBE the TV (Depends) is the OTHER ones. OK....here is what you do. FIRST... Order a NEW GFCI....or find one LOCALLY. ONLY use the Leviton and Hubbell or Eaton Wiring Devices. It is a 20 AMP UNIT... I used to work for Cooper Industries and they owned Cooper Wiring Devices....Cooper sold to Eaton. I have visited at least 3 of the Wiring Devices plants and talked to their tech and design folks (Natural curiosity)....so I am partial to them. The OLDER they get...the worse. WHAT you see as a small "SHORT" may not be enough to TRIP a NEW GFCI. THEY AGE POORLY....LOL OK....here is the backstory. Your Refrigerator (Residential or Gas) has heater elements in the ICEMAKER. They start to leak as time goes on. NOW THIS IS NOT A LETHAL or dangerous situation. Just a fact of life. The ceramic insulating material eventually absorbs microscopic particles or water or vapor....and the GFCI gets "FAKED OUT". SO....do this. When you pull out the GFCI for replacement... Temporarily WIRE nut Black and White from LINE to ONE of the pieces of ROMEX. THEN TEST. You want to identify the KITCHEN (near the sinks) outlets. Mark that one GFCI . NOW, do the other one. ODDS ARE....that will be the ICEMAKER. Mark that REFRIGERATOR. HOPEFULLY....and there were SOME....you have the Refrigerator on ONE piece of Romex and the GFCI Required outlets on the OTHER... Assuming so.... THEN, when you reinstall the GFCI, you put the REFRIGERATOR on the LINE SIDE of the GFCI. Then the GFCI (Outlets) wire goes to the LOAD. BE CAREFUL READ THE LABELS The NEWER GFCI may be reversed. The Building Inspectors started wanting the GROUND PIN on the top so if a metal cover fell, it did NOT SHORT OUT. SO, there is a MIXED version. READ THE LABELS FOR LINE AND LOAD and wire accordingly. NOW....that SHOULD solve the problem. IF NOT....at least you KNOW WHICH Piece of ROMEX and WHICH ones are impacted. I HATE THESE Mobile Home outlets. You may have to start changing... to RESIDENTIAL TYPE... That's it.... OK....

THREE systems used... FOURTH in Design The old X link....that was a Single motor and drive and a LONG Threaded Lead Screw. Air - Most of the later Dynasties and above had them. They are identifiable by the "cleats" or support stops on each side so that when the cover was extended....then the front or outer edges on each corner rested or was supported. THEN...the hybrid.. Looks like the Older Scissors or X-Link with the one main reversing motor.... BUT, it used a "Window Regulator" motor. Sounds like yours. OK....to make this totally confusing...the later 2009 Camelots were SUPPOSED to have TWO Window Regulators. Now DID THEY? Don;t know. Monaco went belly up. Did the engineers that came back and joined Navistar keep working on that design or was it ever released. It show on ALL 2009 Camelot prints....but all I have seen (Scepters included) was the OLDER style... Monaco typically updated the electrical prints a year BEFORE the stuff was installed. LOL... That's what I know....or think I do...

Frank and I are on the same page. I gave you the DRAWINGS for a NON - INTELLITEC system. If you have two BLACK switches....one marked DRIVERS and the OTHER Passengers....then that is the most common. Here is another print....for that system....if Intellitec (Lighted Key Pads....Frank has the "Con"...LOL...yes a Trekie). OK....here is the DEAL... AND THIS IS FOR THE OLDER and MORE COMMON NON INTELLITEC system There are TWO switches. They are interconnected as in the MAIN POWER for each comes to ONE...and then loops over to the OTHER. You KNOW you have POWER coming in to the PASSENGER (as well as Genny). They each "energize" the RETRACT and EXTEND solenoids of the system. This signal ALSO turns on the Hydraulic Pump Solenoid (High Current) to the Motor... NOW...if we are on the same page....you hear the "motor" make the SAME sound as the Passenger....then the POWER to the SWITCHES is NOT the issue....if there was NO noise...If there was DEAD silence....switches. Same deal if someone says "CLICKING". There is ONLY one Pump Solenoid....since it runs two other slides....NOT A Pump Solenoid..... SO....ODDS ARE... the Hydraulic pack is fine...and the switches....since you hear the MOTOR.... AS LONG as you hear the Pump Motor run.....then there is NOT A Bad SWITCH. NOR a pump solenoid....since there is only ONE solenoid for the PUMP. This is an ELECTRIC (High Current). The individual solenoids for Retract and Extend are for the Hydraulics... It would be FUTILE TO SWAP the switches...Past that... Probably the Solenoid. The print shows each one. NOW....that leaves ONE OTHER place. There is an M32 DRIVERS SLIDE Plug or connector. Passenger is M-32A... FIND THAT HARNESS CONNECTOR. Make sure it is tight or plugged in. Plug and UNPLUG... NOW... I have NO IDEA where that is. BUT....logic and "gut" tells me...all is well with the switches... otherwise...no NOISE. BUT, NEITHER WORK. What are the ODDS of BOTH Solenoids going bad. BUT, if there is a LOOSE connection in the plug...maybe the control pins to the motor work...but NOT the solenoids. That's the extent of my help....Good Luck.... Slide switches 2005 Executive 38031336.pdf 2005 Executive Harness drawing 38040056.pdf

Follow the RESET POSTED. The Controller in the ceiling (the two dangling phone cables) does NOT know any polarity....as in it doesn't matter which one (from the roof top) you use. It goes in ONE side and out the other. Next up. Use Alcohol and a Q-Tip and clean the internal (Female) contacts of each connector. CURIOSITY....You should have only TWO dangling connectors....and only ONE wire (phone) cable) attached to ONE of them. Clean the male ends of all of them. It matters NOT which of the Dangling ones are used to the cable from the Thermostat. Plug and unplug them a few times. NEXT...Do the RESET. If this don't fix it.... NEXT STEP... The Thermostats are the SAME. You can remove the Bedroom one and take it to the Front. Then plug it in. NOW...you HAVE to do the RESET AGAIN. Anytime you remove a phone cable .... RESET. IF that fixes it...bad Thermostat....up front. NO JOY....then next step. You will have to GO TO THE ROOF. Pull off the covers of the REAR and FRONT AC. There is a CONTROL MODULE THERE. Take a PICTURE of the DIP Switch Settings. I THINK they will be the same... ONLY the FURNACE is ON....no others... BUT CHECK THAT... Now, pull the Front and install (make sure the DIP settings are the same) the rear one. GO BACK DOWNSTAIRS....Do the RESET. If that works....then you KNOW it is the Control Module. You can STILL BUY THEM NEW. NorthWest RV "used" to have TESTED and/or REFURBISHED 5 Button T'stats... less than half the aftermarket ones...at the AGE of your equipment... I would NOT buy a NEW aftermarket... That's HOW you do it. 90 PLUS % (and I think that I have given this advice to almost 100 members over the years...and that is NOT an exaggeration) are connection issues in the cables. You MAY have a defective end on a controller or the thermostat wire... Folks buy the kits and replace the ends... Good Luck.... Let us KNOW...

Here is how I search.... Frank has given you "HIS METHOD"....and it works....but here is the "GENERIC" way for Topics (past posts) as well as Files... I do it a little differently.....BOTH WORK.... First LOCATE the Search Box in the upper right For FILES.... I do "my way". Typically, I want WIRING diagrams or prints. The keyword is WIRING.... THEN....Click on EVERYWHERE. Then select FILES from the Drop Down....execute or his SEARCH. However, if there is a specific "subject" or perhaps COMPONENT that I wonder about... I will use the keyword such as INTELLITEC or BIG BOY or SANICON or PUMP For INFORMATION on or in past discussions or post in Topics....as in, what members have posted Use a Key Word(s).... EX step cover OR brake OR brake lights THEN....Click on EVERYWHERE. Then select TOPICS from the Drop Down....execute or hit SEARCH.

Don't know if you are using an ANDROID or whatever. My iCloud images display perfectly in the CLOUD (when I sign into iCloud). Then I just select which ones or group and use the download. I just did over 500 this morning... My iCloud is plain Jane and I have all the CHROME and Windows 10 updates. If you are using a different browser....then you will have to good the browser name and HEIC download issues and start from there.

First... When you hear the MOTOR and WHINE....that means the Hydraulic MOTOR has started and is RUNNING. There is NOT any "fuse" that controls any motor. The slide switches go directly to the Slide Control Circuit. Then to the INDIVIDUAL Solenoid that controls the EXTEND or RETRACT. The fact that ALL OTHERS WORK.... NOT GOOD... BUT....you can try slamming the Doors again. Sometimes the switches are finickly They are "wired" so that they operate two separate solenoids. Here is the print of the system. LOOK AT IT. I can tell you that the circuit from the DS Door Switches goes to the J3-9 wire in the UPPER Left corner. If you can find the switch on the FRONT bay....that is where the signal is. Read the logic in the lower LEFT. if ANY of the switches are BAD (as in the are making a circuit...like the would when OPEN), then it ain't gonna work. All the switches need to be OFF...as in CLOSED. That is a GROUND signal. If you can find the FRONT box DOOR....then find the wire that comes from the switch....it should be BL WHITE....and (DOTTED line), then if you cut it (the one of the Plunger tip....and then there is NO wire going to the Circuit with the DIODE....then that eliminates the switches.... That would be my first suggestion. IF that don't fix it... SOLENOID. You will have to locate the correct solenoid and tap it... You SHOULD have prints in your manual. If NOT...here is the set for your EXECUTIVE... this assumes you don't have the LIGHTED Intellitec MPX switch pads and there are many switches (4, 6 or 8 ) on them. A picture of your SLIDE switch would help...but I'm going with the most common. There were a few later Execs that had the MPX.... NOW....how computer literature you may be... If you click on this on a PC, then there will be MANY files. The files are oriented wrong. In the lower right...there is a "ROTATION" circle with an arrow. ROTATE so the read right side up. NOW...in the top RIGHT, there is a BUNCH of tools. The top left one says FIND TEXT OR TOOLS. Type in SLIDE in that and click on the arrows. You will see every print with the word SLIDE on them. Bottom line....you have an issue with the solenoids. If you find the solenoids...you can tap on them. If the slide has NOT started to MOVE and the MOTOR is running....there may be a wiring issue in the slide switch....or there may be a problem in the solenoid... That's as much as I can help....except...there ain't I believe....a MAGIC BULLET....like a fuse... SLIDE 2005 EXEC 38050044.pdf

OK....again, this depends on the Referigerator. BUT, the Norcold (all models) and the Dometics are the same. There is a set of Cooling (Condensing?) fins at the top. This is a long rectangular "module". Pipe in on one side and out on the other. There are thin fins that are stacked along the entire rectangle. On the LEFT side...Dometic....maybe the same for Norcold, there is a small snap disk thermostat. It is held in place by two small tapping screws. There are TWO wires going to it. It is the ON and OFF switch. There SHOULD be 12 VDC coming in on one line....and the other goes through the thermostat switch....and to the fans. The fans are BURIED somewhere in the bowels or the flue underneath the cooling coils. Norcold has TWO as do Dometic. These are small, very small, computer like fans. They are 12 VDC. Many of us added supplemental exhaust fans to the roof vent....so when the thermostat kicks them on....they power 2 more...above....like an exhaust fan. NOW... Norcold and Dometic designed the cooling system more towards "Advertising BOONDOCKING life" than actually efficient cooling. IF you are NOT boondocking...the the MORE air (the more fans as well as more powerful), the better.... NOW....there could be THREE ISSUES. No power to the Thermostat. Maybe a FUSE. Maybe on the board. You need to test the wires. ONE will have power (when the Refrigerator is ON) Bad Thermostat - Norcold sells these....Amazon has them. Do NOT order a Dometic one. The Norcold has a different temperature range. It runs cooler or stays on MORE. If you put in a Dometic, you will NOT have enough ON COOLING TIME. I used a Norcold on my Dometic to improve the cooling. THEY ALL ARE THE SAME Holes.... Bad FANS. God HELP YOU. You can SHORT the two wires together....assuming you have power. If the fans run....GREAT. If they don't and you have verified 12 VDC to one wire...then start digging and you will have, I think, to remove the Norcold. YOU CAN, if you have a roof vent....put in TWO fans (make a simple frame. Many have done it. @Dr4Film did this on his Windsor.) PM him for some details or get his phone and call him. That's it....

Whatever one feels he needs….he carries. The list of spare parts for my Onan 8.0 was less than $75 ….maybe a few years ago. Now, that is the belt, sensor, thermostat and gasket. Always have spare oil and air…. How much brushes for the 10 would be….no idea. So for maybe $100 MAX. .I can do, or let a shop fix anything that would shut me down….and not have to wait on stuff shipped in. Our travel may be different. We plan a 6 - 8 week trip. Up to 9K PLUS miles….like from NC to West Coast to NW to ND and then Elkhart. We had GK’s flying in to SFO then daughter into SEATAC (Seattle/ Tacoma) the. Back out and son into Spokan and out somewhere further East. Our plans are tight and we have 6 months out reservations for critical campsites…..and also tours and plays and whale watching and pageants… Had a tire failure and kept on track…otherwise DW drives from Reno to SFO as GK’s coming in. Never had a bobble with my Onan. Eventually, it gonna need to PM. but I DID have an issue at home….and had a leak. So, tech put in new Thermostat….wish they would have called….then minor PM with my parts. The parts listed were what the most experienced and full timers that started and joined this site said they carried…. NEVER thought that simple post would morph…..Oh WELL!!!

As usual.... Frank to the Rescue. Yes, the connectors (Big suckers....LOL) have been known to be an issue. The usual fix is to unplug and replug a few times to sort of burnish or polish off the corrosion. I use a trick taught to me by an old master electrician. First... I would try a precision screwdriver on them.. Put this in AMAZON. Stanley Tools 6-Piece Precision Screwdriver Set, Black/Yellow These are very sturdy. You can use the flat blade ones to sort of scrape off any surface corrosion. I do NOT know the diameter of the Female receptacles. But, on the 6 pin connectors that Roadmaster makes for umbilicals, I purchased a .17 Caliber (17 Caliber) rifle cleaning brush (gun shops or Amazon). That is a tiny brass brush and works great.... Don't know if the pins on this multi plug are that large. The NEXT trick is the best I have used. NoAlox is a "AntiCorrosion" electrical compound. Think toothpaste or maybe a bit runnier. It contains Aluminum fines. It is used for Manufactured Housing (Mobile Homes) repairs where there is a LOT of Aluminum wiring. It is designed to prevent bi-metalism (reaction) between Copper Wires and Aluminum Wires. BUT...the neat thing....it has a high concentration of microscopic aluminum fines. You can use a tooth pick and put a drop (very small) on the interior of the female pin and the exterior of the male pin (or PINS) and when you mate them a few times, the NoAlox acts like polishing compound on a car's paint. Gardner Bender makes one that Lowes' used to sell or most electrical supply houses have one. USE....VERY VERY Sparingly. Typically, a little cleaning with a small brass brush (Lowes has them....maybe toothbrush size) will clean the male pins. Then you can use the precision screwdrivers to go the internal walls of the female. NO JOY... use the NoAlox. NOW.....curiosity prevailed. I KNEW that there was a COPPER "GRIT" compound as I had searched for it a time of two... This is the SAME (generically speaking) Classification as the NoAlox...but is a COPPER based product. https://media.ilsco.com/document/catalogpage/DE-OX.pdf ILSCO Oxide inhibitor is available in three different formulas: NON-GRIT, ZINC, COPPER. Oxide Inhibitor is applied to the connector prior to inserting the wire conductor, providing an air-tight seal around the conductor, preventing oxides from forming. USE COMMON SENSE and don't go crazy. I would try to clean (brush and screwdriver) the contacts and mate and unmate. IF THAT WORKS....STOP. Then use Bulb Grease....SPARINGLY and put the connector back together. That will prevent future corrosion. I use a 2 or 4X Eye Loupe (Jeweler) and a strong LED (small Maglite) and inspect. BUT if the corrosion is bad....then the NoAlox will work. I can't find the Copper Grit on Amazon....maybe EBAY. I plan to order a small bottle of it and put it with my "GEE...hope I NEVER need this stuff" in the MH. Work slowly and carefully... If Frank is right....then you should be able to clean the connector. Good Luck...

@Frank McElroy The syntax escapes me....and I am tied up. BUT, Frank will probably chime in....or if he misses this....PM HIM. He is our GURU (and that is an UNDERSTATEMENT) on the electronics. NEVER, EVER steal power when you can't locate a fuse. Frank will help you. You're making progress....and we, the Staff, appreciate members that did in and learn and become MORE SELF SUFFICIENT....as later on, they tend to help others. GOOD JOB!!!!

We have the 2008 prints on file. The have a PDF index. Start there. Typically, Monaco spent mor3 time on non critical items, like radio and AV. There is a detailed print on the radio…. Have seen it many times as i scrolled through looking for other items. Use WIRING in the search. Click on Everywhere and TOPICS. There are TWO sets of 2008 Dynasty as there were a FEW 08’s with CCM. I THINK the first set of 2008 on page 1 is yours….unless you have a CCM. Good Luck…

OK MY GOD. I feel ancient... I think some of the bulbs on my Daddy's 48 Fleetline were soldered in... Seriously, the new bulbs that snap in are the "weird" ones for me...as I must have changed a hundred of the "antigues" that you posted. Take that as a humorous observation... NO...my first car did NOT have a buggy whip holder...but I drove my Cousin's 51 Fleetline and it had NO TURN SIGNALS...you used your left arm... LOL TIMES 2

Rule of Thumb…..here for at least 15 years. If you have only 676 hours and coolant has been changed and looks fine…..Drive (Generate) ON. Many of our more experienced members have close to 1,000 and are confident. BUT…..for the 7.5/8.0 KW……buy and carry the following… Thermostat & Thermostat housing gasket Drive Belt Temperature Sensor Spare Oil and Air Filter. MANY folks, with good PM practices, as they approach 1000 hours will install all the above….but that seems to be a “lets stop and reconsider” issue….lately Now…if you have the 10/12.5 KW….I’d do some reading or call Onan. They have brushes….and there may be a few other parts….so, while you totally take things apart…some minor items might be replaced….I’m not that well versed on the innards of them. NOW….for ALL 10/12.5 KW owners. 2 or 3 times per year….it is a MUST DO to start and run your genny. You need around half a load….2 HP/AC’s work well….run that for at least 30 minutes. That “cleans” the brushes. If not, you will have regulation issues such as Voltage and Frequency. This has been published countless times, but we have several new members….this is NOT necessary on the 7.5/8.0 units….NO BRUSHES….LOL…. DO IT FAITHFULLY. But if you drive with the genny on and AC’s running or dry camp…..not needed….just if you store it for long periods. To climb on this band wagon…..ALL MH owners ought to drive with Genny ON every quarter. My routine….genny on…both rooftops in AC mode and set way low. Drive until the Tranny’s temp is the same as the engine. Turn around. Switch to Heat Pump. Drive home…. Start the diesel burner on your AquaHot or turn on the furnace and let it run for say 15 minutes….. The above times are “relative”. If you drive far enough to get the tranny to engine temp….it will be fine….and exercised on the return leg.

YES... TEST each switch. The terminals are NOT critical....except to label one LEFT and the other RIGHT or label the switches A and B and then the harness/wires for each. OK....KNOWING how to test them and the pressures is critical. I did some searching of the posts. Here is one that might be the best... Read my comments. Read Frank McElroy's. ESPECIALLY FRANK... The switches are supposedly in Parallel and if SO, then unless the Tech had a super sniffer, how did he determine if one was bad. If one was bad, I THINK, then the other working... The Downstream signal would be the same... SO, I am NOT saying the tech is wrong... but from what I read....and that is from what I thought....so I did the searching... I am a little dubious of such. Unfortunately, sometimes folks get erronious INFO or misunderstand and don't complete their own troubleshooting and the "Throw $$ at it and it'll FIX ER" That is becoming an issue. Case in point. Member THOUGHT based on all he read....bad Board on his generator. Suggestions... BUY a new Board ($1.600) or a Refurbished. He ordered a returnable Refurbished ($800). NOPE Board was GOOD....and the "shifting error codes" pointed to issues with the Mechanical Gen Set (brushes and such). BUT, at least he didn't spend a fortune and is now diagnosing the CORRECT component(S) and then going to repair... Several of the folks have found that it is a SIMPLE issue. They pull the terminals and then replug and reseat a time or two. NEXT. Turn OFF BOTH House and Chassis Banks. Then disconnect the Positive from the Battery banks.....you want NO voltage. Cover up or disconnect the solar. Let it SIT for an hour or so. Then reconnect batteries... Then turn on the switches.... That has reset a lot of "funky" ones. The other questions come up.. Does your Cruise Control disengage as it should? As far as the lights.. I don't quite understand the UPPER ONES. Do you mean the TailLight Brake Switches as compared the SINGLE (called Cyclops or Center Brake or if you are a gear head...."Liddy Light". I would want to know the overall symptoms and then....go from there. Remember MOST of these switches are 0 - 5 PSI or so.... I'm having a bit of an issue wrapping my head around one switch is bad.... Let us know... https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=switch abs&quick=1&type=forums_topic&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy