Tom Cherry

You have NEW headlights with the DOT stamp. They were molded and then a UV Resistant Vacuum applied coating, per DOT Specs, applied….as they age, the coating begins to oxidize….. However, you probably will a longer life and not have to clean and coat…, One of the site or reviews or places called it FOUR steps….if you read the PDF, the second step is a TWO part cleaning or polishing. Thus…”four” Semantics. If you follow the 3 steps….same as we have posted for 15 years. The “oxidizer” removal (careful….not get on paint) is nothing more than a solvent….as in Deet. The second step…lf you do the first step correctly, you may not have streaks….but using the ScratchX cleans them. Then wash and rinse… the kit has two different steps….thus, 4 distinct steps…. The Third Step is the protectant . There is nothing unique or magical in the first two steps….use their kit or Deet and ScratchX….you have cleaned off the haze or the oxidized layer. NOW….the real question. Is the $18 Kit have some special or magical protectant that will last longer than Aerospace 303? That I don’t know….what do the ratings say? My point….if you contaminate the special Cerrakote Protectant with 303….will or may shorten the life, From my background in surface prep and plastic molding and vacuum coating, if there is a proprietary protectant that crosslinks to the compound that is in step 2….then it would be highly inadvisable to adulterate it and not get the life that the kit says. BUT if folks say it only lasts 2 months or so….then the DEET method is easier and cheaper. FWIW. I am NOW at almost 6 years on the 3M film that I had Dazzling Detail put (a $20 tip) on my headlights….. therefore a REAL UV resistant film works….there are kits you can buy. There are clearcoat kits that you spray. But, if the original UV vacuum coating is gone….then in 30 days….they haze… Hope this clarifies it….

Go to THIS topic. I posted a link close to the “top” for the 2003 Dynasty complete set of prints. Click on the link….it is in there and you can print of save as a PDF. There is a GREAT index in the front…..easy to follow and then look at the page number.

There is a TECH button thqt gives the Magnum folks info. Do the hard reset. Nothing hooked up and see it every thing works….then add back in t remote. Only way to find out if the Inverter is OK and or the remote. Better to troubleshoot and isolate the problem rather than throwing $$ and buying things that are not broke.

The entire Dometic (was Duo Therm) control system is a Multiplexed system. There is a two Pair (2 wires per pair) data cable. Looks like a phone cable that runs from a Thermostat to an HVAC unit. The HVAC has 120 VAC for the compressor and motor. There is 12 VDC to power the Thermostat…from the 12 VDC in the control module. One pair of the data cable has 12 VDC. The other pair of cables carries the “Multiplexed Data signal”. There is no hard wiring or a multi wire (like a home thermostat). Just two itty bitty wires from the thermostat that gets a signal from the thermostat and sends instructions to the first HVAC unit. If there are additional units down stream, then one thermostat controls all of them..….as in Zone 1, Zone 2 or additional zones…. You just keep the data cabe going from one HVAC (Control Module) to the nest. That is why one can NOT install a typical RV unit that requires a multi Wire thermostat cable….5 to 7 wires….and they have to be at lease 18 gauge. The data cable is probably 24 Gauyge and you only need one pair of wires…

I'd be reluctant to use it.... THERE IS A SPECIFIC PROTECTANT in the kit....see the STEP 4 instructions. There are volatiles and such in the 303. It works great if you don't do anything but POLISH. The protectant wipes are on of the "UNIQUE" things in the kit. I have seen some bad things happen when you use other products. That is why the kit is so high, $$. But, yours. Once you use the 303, it will probably wash off the special coating. BTW...FWIW.... All that kit does is get you to BARE plastic.... and THEN there is a "Specialty Ceramic Protectant"... As I stated early in the topic, the old fashioned and cheap way is to clean off the brown/yellow oxidized finish with an insect repellant...with a high concentration of DEET. DEET is a powerful "plasticizer" eater upper.... LEARNED THE HARD WAY. BUT, what you are doing is just using a solvent to take off the haze. You can polish or abrade off the out film or use DEET and wipe it of. Probably need to do a little touch up with something like ScatchX. That is NOT a wax. Then you use a mild window cleaner or a little soap and rinse it. NOW, you have a CLEAN unprotected coating. You are basically at Step 3 of the Kit you bought... Then use the 303 and then reapply every one to two months. I'd hold off on the 303 and see how long the special coating or protectant lasts....

The circuit is on the prints. I do NOT think that there is a "Circuit Board". It is strictly switches... and two relays... The prints we have on FILE are the PITS....blame Monaco. However, the shades are pretty much universal. The best print is from a 2003 Dynasty. I have downloaded it and included it. You MIGHT want o download the Dynasty prints....YES...you have a LOT of different stuff. BUT, the common items are the same and the Dynasty prints actually show SCHEMATICS and not "plugs and harnesses. Here is the file. LOOK at the index that someone prepared. Page 99 shows the one that I have pulled before. That is how it works... The logic is a bit contorted (memory), It MAY involve switching Grounds... a COMMON practice with Monaco. But, if you sit down and start to follow it...it makes sense. Here is the Dynasty file... and the printout of page 99 Dual Shades Circuit - Dynasty...and probably OTHERS - Circa 2003.pdf

Back to basics. First, here is an older manual. https://www.bluepacificsolar.com/picture_library/tech-specs/magnum-me-series-installation.pdf Second.... You MAY have an improper setup on the REMOTE...or your REMOTE is flaky and causing things to change. SO...here is what I would do. NO AC or SHORE. Cover your solar panel or remove the battery from the Solar. Turn OFF the HOUSE Battery switch. Then Disconnect the House Battery Positive. Then remove the power (BOTH LEADS) from the Inverter. Pull or remove the three (I think you have 3) phones lines from the Magnum. Should be a Batt Temp Sensor. Remote and Network (that is the AGS if you have one. Let the inverter SIT for around an hour. That dissipates all internal stored charged. This is CALLED, by Magnum a HARD Reset (Restart). DO NOT PLUG BACK IN the Network, Remote or Battery Temperature phone lines. NONE OF THEM....hen reconnect, in reverse order everything. Restore the AC LAST NOW... You need to RESTART the INVERTER. Hold in the power button for a few seconds. It will power UP. OK....as to the cause.... MANY DIFFERENT things. BUT, clearing out the "electronic gremlins" in the Inverter is the FIRST thing...that Magnum will tell you to do. They will go through the SOFT restart...but when a repetitive error occurs, we have found it best to just "SHUT 'ER DOWN". Also Magnum techs say ONE HOUR....not is what is in the manual. NOW...the Inverter has a "Program" of DEFAULT Parameters. You are NOW running on this. They are designed or configured for our MH's. SO....let it run. It WILL charge the batteries. Therefore, NOT having any PHONE lines connected, the Defaults take over. Let the Batteries charge up. How long... Maybe overnight. Then you can test the next morning. IF you kill the AC (unplug from shore), then the Inverter will start to invert...there MAY be a flicker and you lose the Microwave clock...this is normal for one of the defaults... When you do the proper Remote SETUP....the Search Watts is usually turned off. IF all is well. Let it run on batteries for a while....and then back to AC.... You KNOW the Inverter is OK... NEXT....focus on the REMOTE. Here is the FILE that I put together... OK....based on the age and rev level of your remote...not ALL the parameters may be there. SO...plug in the remote. THEN scroll through the parameters and write down (take a picture?) of the settings. Start with the SHORE and then go through the setup. Record for each step. NOW LET IT RUN... Turn OFF the AC and watch it come back on when you apply AC again. It is NORMAL for the Lights NOT to come back on sometimes... SO, you MIGHT have to push the buttons. BTW....you can NEVER turn off the INVTERTER from the remote. In your MH, the Inverter is DIRECTLY connected (via the FUSE...probably a 300 Amp... Folks THINK you can. It remains in STANDBY. The ONLY WAY to turn it off....do the SOFT RESET (hold in the button for almost 30 seconds....it reboots)....AND you have to turn it BACK ON... the Button or switch will NOT do this. You CAN turn off the Charger. Don't ask me....Magnum told me that and said it was a commonly asked question as well as myth... NOW....start to CHECK the remote. Go back THROUGH the setup. Compare what the Remote HAS (Displays) with the Values or Parameters you set. When a Remote gets flaky or has a fault...it will CHANGE the parameters and all sort of "bugs" come to life. I had to replace mine. Many do... NOW...if all is well and you have no issues....let it RUN for a few days. Next...you can plug in the Bat Temp Switch....or you can "MOUNT IT" on the side of the case of the rear battery. When that Thermocouple shorts out....it does STRANGE things to the system. It is strictly a Thermocouple and when it is mounted on the rear negative terminal....if it shorts....it will cause issues. It is SUPPOSED to be electrically isolated and all there is is a Circuit from it to the Inverter and the inverter is reading the THERMOCOUPLE... SO, if you hook it up and problems....either discard or mount on the side (to the case) or get a new one. ODDS ARE, it is NOT the NETWORK cable, assuming you have an AGS. That's the drill. Past that.... when it does it again...shoot a picture of the error code. Call Magnum....they are GREAT. Tell them WHAT you did and such and they will start to trouble shoot. BUT, the above is how you clean things up and they suggest you do that....and then call back.. BTW... The above has "fixed" at least 10 or so inverters that the soft reset and "Gremlins" were in. IF the remote is BAD...,then replace. Mine would reset the voltages and also the size of the battery bank...and then the inverter would sometimes NOT come on when AC was off or vice versa when turning off AC and needing Inverted power. I spent several weeks with Magnum on the phone testing...and this is the gist of what I learned... Good Luck....keep us posted.

I can't recall what bolts are used on the Roadmaster... PROBABLY a Grade 8. That has 5 marks. If it is a Grade 5, it will have 3 marks. https://www.melfast.com/blog/2014/03/a-mini-guide-on-grade-8-bolts#:~:text=Despite the popular belief%2C a,constructions or the automotive industry. Despite the popular belief, a stainless steel bolt is actually weaker than a grade 8 bolt. In fact, according to the Society of American Engineers (SAE), grade 8 bolts are the strongest and hardest hex bolt you would want to use in constructions or the automotive industry. While the carbon alloy bolts have a proof load of over 120,000 psi, their stainless steel counterparts don't carry an indicative proof load. Moreover, the minimum strength of grade 8 bolts is around 130,000 psi, whereas stainless steel strength doesn't exceed 90,000 psi. OK...for the Real information, either go to the IFI and research or you can use this chart. SS is a term. What is NEEDED is the TYPE or GRADE. https://boltdepot.com/Fastener-Information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart However, and I was the Chief Engineer for a large Fastener Manufacturer.....here is the simple chart. https://boltdepot.com/Fastener-Information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart IF the Hitch came, which I THINK most do, with Grade 8 bolts...and SS was substituted....then there is probably a reduction in the tensile strength of the bolts. I would ALSO only USE FLAT WASHERS.... not split washers. I discussed with the Roadmaster and they agreed, in writing, based on actually calling their vendor. Their kits were older technology and with the newer Electronic Lab and QC equipment....the Industry standard changed. USE FLAT WASHERS. Roadmaster said..."Well, they have worked for a long time...maybe something we look into". SO...for the ultimate....use Grade 8 and Flat Washer and Loctite RED. That is what the specs say. You CAN take apart a Loctite RED assembly by heating the bolt head with a "Pencil Tip" torch. I remove Loctite Red Screws from Rifle Mounts....for folks that should have used Loctite Blue or Green. Some thought it was permanent and they needed to remove the scope. Just a little patience and understanding and being careful That's my take and background and information.

LAST DITCH. Swap the BOARDS. That is the ONLY THING LEFT. Try that.... BTW... DID you take the Front Thermostat and plug it in or use it in the REAR? Assumed you did...but if not....try that. Otherwise....swap the boards. Good Luck. Thanks for the feedback. Let us know...

@Garry Donohue PM @Frank McElroy. He is an electonics wizard. He will repair and test the board.

Most of Monaco’s pumps were direct of hard plumbed with PEX. (Or equivalent). Some of the lines were laying of floor of bay where pump was. The vibrations from the pump would lack like a” “bass drum” in that the pex would vibrate up and down and “smack” the floor. NOISE. See below. You need or most do, one on each end. That solves it. Hope this helps….probably some pictures here, but the concept is simple. May be a video on Youtube on “reduce rv water pump vibration”. Folks that used the 2 X 8 (or whatever width you need) pad with rubber underneath it and the loops said that they could barely hear the pump. In SOME cases, Monaco dropped down the pex and didn’t run on the floor. Mine is on floor and I put Pipe Insulation (split in half) under the pex and that fixed mine… NOT all need it…but raising and protecting the pump and the flex line loops is the first class way…and you got a first class rig…LOL.

Great. Unusual for that many fuses to pop.. read this. Great for understanding MPX. Next one is Frank’s PRIMER…

His pictures show manual switches. Frank and I concluded no MPX. That’s all the info I have. Now, if these switches are part of an MPX, all bets are off. The only SLIDE prints were very inconclusive. Most focused on Elextric. He said HWH and hears the Motor running. So, that was our logic. I guess we see after he responds. FORGOT to post. ALL of a sudden, his Driver’s came to life this morning. GREAT….retracted them. OPPS….now Passenger, which was working when he started post, is dead. My take….loose wires on Pump Solenoid. But who knows….if he responds….can ask questions….

Joe, Glad you are making progress. Ron texted me earlier today. Been outside recovering our screened porch from the “code 5 pollen season”. Ron called a mobile tech. Had sent him the print and went over circuit. No feedback. Guess we just wait….

Unless you KNOW the present accumulator is “absolutely perfect” as in the internal bladder is water tight, you might want to cap off the fitting and pull it out. Weighing it and comparing to the same one….to determine if there is water on the air bladder side or the ever popular “shake and slosh” test is the only way. many folks here use a 2X 8, pressure treated pad. They screw it down to a 1/4” hard rubber sheet or something to prevent vibration. Then they use the 18” Loops. You can buy the 1/2” reinforced tubing at Lowes and make the inlet and outlet vibration reduction loops. That really makesthe pump almost silent. Assume you also ordered the check assembly or the backflow preventer for the outlet….otherwise, install a hard plumbed one. That is a nice looking Dynasty. The 2008 would be my choice…..sharp

Sounds logical to me. Not my experience. My only comment, my daughter and GD had issues with shower flow when shampooing and rinsing hair. Quickly found out. The inline garden hose flow regulators not only reduced pressures but also “halved” the flow. So, with a 5 GPM whole house filter, I could only get 2 or 3 GPM out of shower. BUT, with the Remco, it was a full 5 PLUS GPM. Let them use pump when showering. Then, got smart….bought a REAL high flow Valterra pressur controller. MY POINT. Family needs and preferences often factor into purchases and features. I can NOT go back to half flow….or I lose my “lady family members”. Just evaluate all aspects of the “needs” or parameters. If you want to test low flow….use an inline one or cut back on the CG faucet….and measure….if all is well and everyone happy…go for it. Real bummer about the Remco….wonder if Remco is now outsourcing and no longer buying from AquaTech like they did for years after they bought the rights and name?.?

Can’t help you there….but low voltages are a PITA. They also damage and eventually kill motors. When the voltage drops, then the motor says….gotta pull more amps….big time. Motors are rated in watts…VOLTS times AMP. So a 960 Watt motor (FLA of 80) times 12 equals 960. Drop to 10 VDC. OPPS 96 AMPS….Lower….worse it gets. My Lippert slide was rated at 65 FLA and Monaco goofed. Removed the recommended 80 A and put in a 150. When there was a loose motor lead and low volts….i pulled 140 A. Motor was toasted. Fixed connection. Switched from House to Chassis…. But, it was costly. $1,700 For new pump and valve unit. Labor took that up to $2,500. Be surprised how much you learn about phsics and circuits and electrical knowledge when it hits your pocket book. @throgmartin is the slide guy. All my stuff was general based on folks problems over the years and helping offline troubleshooting…..

Been a fan of them since day one when they were AquaTech. Remember to buy the BACKFLOW PART. @Scotty Hutto wrote about this. Many RV manufacturers are plumbing in a hard BF or check valve. That is reason it is no longer included. As to accumulator….my “gist” of all the comments…. AquaTech was adamant. Do not use. Many have used them. Personal choice. Does it make a difference? Not in mine. Wotks great. If I were a fan of accumulators, I would try it….and plug off the connection to my accumulator. Most have found that age gets to accumulators. Those of us always on a well know that they go bad and the diaphragm gets pinhole leaks and you have to “re-air”. An accumulator is the same as a “well tank”. AquaTech said a faulty or leaking accumulator sort of drove the pressure regulator chip or board “crazy”. It would cycle on, sometimes at night and folks complain. Not the pump’s fault….it just turned on when system pressure dropped. The RV55 has avariable speed regulator so it starts to slow doen the pump or “growls” at the end. A faulty accumulator exacerbates that. But again….your call. I would guess a majority , if not a large portion don’t have or eliminated their accumulator. NO KNOCKING folks that feel they improve system….we each have our own criteria… Folks will respond….highly discussed topic every time it comes up.

Joe, Frank and I believe that your system is the same as the 2005 Exec...thus the combining or merging. I would do the following. Get a long piece of Lamp Cord...18 Gauge is fine. Need some alligator clips or dual alligator lead clips. On the Driver's side....hook up the lamp cord to either of the two solenoids. Then, run that to your VOM and cycle the slides. IF you get an instant 12 VDC on either direction....then the SIGNAL is OK. IF you get an intermittent, then there is a problem...possibly incoming power to the switches (common from the Lockout) or a bad connection down stream. If the fuse is good, you will get instant power. IF IT is erratic...check the fuse. NO JOY. Then cycle the slides. You SHOULD always HOLD IN the button, either way for a count of maybe 3 until you hear the pitch of the motor change. Cycle this a few times either way to get any trapped air our of the system. PAST THAT... it may be mechanical. The fact the the PUMP is running means that the switch power is OK....and if it continues to run...then if the solenoids are getting power....then you know electrically...all is well. The odds or BOTH solenoids going bad? LOW. But, many have had issues. There is ONE thing you can try. IF you are getting a LOW VOLTAGE to the motor...then it WILL... I KNOW THIS...be UGLY. IF you use your lamp cord and hook it up to the MOTOR LEADS... Run the Passenger Slides. Look at the MOTOR voltage. NOW, do the same with the Driver's slides. IF there is a Voltage drop...that means that the Passenger (usually shorter and lighter) is easier to MOVE. The WAY TO TEST THAT.. Use a Jumper Cable from the Chassis to the HOUSE. SHORE ON. THEN run the slides. If the Voltage on the Drivers drops LESS, then you have an issue with the wiring to the MOTOR or you have weak House. ONE THING.... Do some PM and clean the GROUNDS on BOTH banks behind the battery boxes (BOTH BATTERIES OFF). Then go up front and find the GROUND side of the motor. Clean the GROUND stud for that as well. I had an issue....lower voltage...and it was a ground issue... Cleaned all grounds. WORKED. Many causes... you have to narrow down and eliminate each one. IF you have a major difference in each side's voltage...then use your vehicle and jump GROUND to GROUND and then put your vehicle's positive to the INCOMING side of the Solenoid. IF that speeds it up...wiring. IF NOT...mechanical... Good Luck...

OK...for those not following. Ron and I and Frank McElroy have talked some. The INTELLITEC MPX system has an HWH Control Box. We THINK that the system here is the original one. We can NOT find, in the 2005 Exec prints....a copy of the Driver's and Passenger's HWH slides...but this "optional" rear Bedroom Slide's is the same circuit that has been used before. Frank and I talked. The 2005 Exec drawings that we have are an abortion. BUT, I DID find ONE print. This is for a PAIR of Rear Slides. SO....your have a PAIR of slides up front. I searched the PDF for HWH...NOPE. Then SLIDES. Found this one. Here is the deal. The Switches get power from a separate source. As in, the lockout relay....which is also controlled or has lockouts for the DOORS or BAYS. The incoming power for the switch goes up to the Pump Solenoid. When the MOTOR runs... the same POWER to the MOTOR sends a signal, via a 15 Amp Fuse, to the Solenoids... BUT, there is a SET of contacts on the Switch that control that.... THEN, the switch sends it out to the proper solenoid. CONFUSING...YES...it has taken me years. When you push the switch, either way, ONE side of the switch sends power (either way) to the Solenoid. THEN the solenoid closes....and then the FUSED signal comes down to the Switch...on the OTHER SIDE or a separate set of contacts. Depending on WHICH way (retract or extend), then the switch energized the proper solenoid. MY THEORY.... The FUSE BLEW. YES, the Switch will WORK...as it is powered from a separate source. YES....the motor starts...as that is powered from the Lockout relay. BUT, then the power to the Motor comes back down to the switch (other side) and then the direction or RET or EXT is controlled by the switch and it then energizes the correct solenoid. OK...HOW TO TEST. IF you measure the EXTEND Solenoid....then I'll wager (think) that you will NOT see power there either. SO, in essence....the entire SLIDE is dead...It won't GO either way. I have NO IDEA, nor does Frank, as to where that fuse is. I suspect it is at the PUMP SOLENOID. IF I am RIGHT....then if you follow the power out of the SOLENOID to the motor...there should be THREE small wires as well. Each one is for EACH slide. There SHOULD be three FUSES... One for EACH slide. If the Driver's SLIDE doesn't work....then it would NOT MOVE either way. Replace the FUSE... NOW...NO JOY. THEN, run a lamp cord line to the solenoid. One side from the PUMP MOTOR side of the solenoid and a GROUND. Hook at up to the Solenoid. IF I am right...your slide will come in. You will have to locate, in the future the fuse. THE OTHER OPTION. You have a BAD SWITCH. ONE SIDE works. The OTHER doesn't... You COULD (take pictures and label), SWAP the switches...and that should make them work... That's it... rear bedroom hwh slide 2005 Dynasty and up.pdf

Comment, hopefully for clarity. The DEMCO AirForceOne braking system that has a small actuating cylinder that you hook up or attach to the brake pedal. The air signal from the MH modulates it and it applies progressive braking. Many are fans of it. The M&G Braking system is a "Pneumatic" system where there is a "Actuator Module" or device that is added between the master cylinder and the vehicle's vacuum powered (now with the electric ABS like my previous Hummer H3 had...I don't know how the would or if they could do it). Thus, when you apply the coach brakes, the rears are the first to engage...then continued pedal pressure or force is modulated and the front brakes are applied. Since the M&G device actually operates the brake lever or treadle as we call it, there is NOTHING to hookup. I LIKE THAT. I installed it on my 2016 Yukon and have over 40K of towing. The way the systems are activated is an "AIR SIGNAL" from one of the rear brakes. A "T" is put in the line. M&G runs this directly to a Quick Disconnect fitting in the rear and you "plug in the vehicle". AirForceOne has a different system. The signal or applying the brakes also has a "T", I think... that is in the line to one of the rear brake cannisters. However, there are check valves and a cannister and such so that the "BRAKING AIR" is NOT used....and the MH's "air system" is supposed to then apply the brakes so that there is NOT a direct use of the Braking air or if there is a hose rupture the braking system is not compromised. The components in the pictures were identified by some as AirForceOne and then the topic continued. Here is the Demco Manual if anyone is interested. I have the M&G and only have the simple "T" and am, potentially, however great or small, at the braking line being compromised. There have been no reports here of such. As a precaution, I ran the 1/2" line inside a 3/8" air line as a "conduit" to prevent accidental damage. I also researched, online, and found to no issues or reports of problems with the M&G. This topic is about a "leaning" condition...and there is now an AFO installation on the MH. Whether that is the issue or not... Don't know. Whether the AFO system's instructions said to tap into a "leveling" system... Don't know. But, since this something that many are not familiar with...the above.... Here is the Demco manual if one is curious. I WILL say that the M&G works flawlessly....and I highly recommend it. Hope this clarifies it and then one can understand the comments.... https://cdn.demco-products.com/documents/Manuals/AF0108-Manual.pdf

That is exactly what I expected. WOW, FWIW... Every time I have selected a vendor or baseplate manufacturer, I downloaded the prints and instructions and Roadmaster always, from an engineering or design standpoint, was more robust.... typically had an additional fastener and/or had larger diameter fasteners. Thanks for sharing... no matter how "RIGHT" one does it...sometimes things break. That is why safety chains and a braking system is so important. I have lost my design engineer contact at Roadmaster....otherwise I would send it to you. But I have always had great response from one of their engineers if I had a technical question. Glad you caught it...

Which Brand? Did you use Loctite Red on all fasteners during assembly. Did you use torque wrench for final tightening? Roadmaster sends split lock nuts. The IFI (PATRON SAINT of fastener manufacturer) has changed recommendations and they (confirmed with 2 well known manufacturers) now recommend FLAT WASHERS…not split washers. Curiosity. I’m on my third TOAD. Been lucky, I guess. Total of 80K or more. Thanks for the post

Short answer…no way to know. With the AFO Manual, you have the inatructions for install..reverse…and uninstall. As stated, you NEVER know if it was done correctly, but take off what was added…. BTW, You may have a leaky valve. Until you. Identify what ain’t needed…a guess

Question is….re AirForceONE…. Did a previous owner have one installed. If you crawl under and look at the cannisters from the rear brakes….there will be a “T”, I THINK going to “somewhere”. The other side will NOT have one. The AFO works when you apply brakes….an AIR signal to the rear. The AFO system is more complex than the M&G…. The AFO then has a “system” and check valves to prevent a bleed down. If you have had MH since new…obviously NOT. BUT who knows what the PO did. If you are curious….download the AFO manual. There are pictures of air circuit and the additional components. I have the M&G and all I have is the T. Now, if you have left over AFO parts….undo. FWIW…NEVER, EVER depend on a PO to have installed or had installed something RIGHT. We have seen folks cut into hoses or wires that were absolutely the WRONG ONE. I would NOT have thought that the AFO air supply, which is different from the brake line T signal, would have been plumbed in to the leveling system…. BUT, after 16 years of reading most every post and helping troubleshoot…..Nothing, quite literally, surprises me. May not solve the issue…but if you are not PO, then eliminating the AFO system by looking at their manual is the only way to be sure. Someone may solve it….but if one of the candidates is AFO….gotta chase hoses… Good Luck….let us know… Thanks,