Tom Cherry

BEN….a definite NO NO. Read the manual for your system. We have the NON FULL 12 VDC Big Boy. There is a device on the swing out door in the rear run bay (the one with the knobs). It is a Intellitec BIRD Diesel2 module. It senses the voltages on each bank. It then controls the Big Boy. It sends out “Pulsed” voltage. Measure it….it will be 3 - 4 VDC. But, if you put it on a “scope”, it is a PURE 12VDC. But the length of the Pulse or the time ON is only 1/3 or about 3 - 4 VOLTS, averaged. BUT, if you push or HOLD the BOOST switch, there is a signal sent to the relay that drives the Big Boy and you get a FULL 12 VDC. Hold that down for maybe 5 minutes or shorter….Heat builds UP. Fries the coil. The specs on the Big Boy list CONTINUOUS current or full 12 VDC for maybe 30 seconds….don’t hold me to a precise number….the manual warns you. BUT, when the BIRD D2 Module kicks in….INSTANTANEOUS 12 VDC….that locks in the coil. Then after, say a second or so, it drops back and then the control circuit is the Pulsed voltage. You do NOT have the board (#6) on a 05/06 Dynasty and above that this post is about. NOW…..there were….on older models…..a 100A Big Boy. OK to have full 12 VDC. There were other “types”, misidentified as a “Big Boy” (Trombetta and White Rogers and others) that WERE full 12 VDC rated. The PURPOSE of this response is to WARN FOLKS. Never EVER put a stupid Golf TEE under a later model Monaco boost switch……you’ll damage the 200A Big Boy and/or “COOK” your Chassis Battery….when you are ON AC or GENNY. Thanks for bringing it up so we can get the word out….AGAIN….

Ask….and ye shall receive. There are all sorts of “thingies” that the car boys are putting on. There is USUALLY a high current fuse on the positive. I always carry a spare in every vehicle. NOW….this device is basically….a sophisticated “Battery temp sensor” with a “amp meter” probe….and a “bonus”….Voltage sensor. Critcial to the voltage regulation of your alternator…..it goes bad….you COOK your battery…. You can google it and there is a LOT of info, some wrong…LOL, about it and what all it does….

From a person that was the Chief Engineer for a Fastener company a d we designed and developed a variety of the infamous “Drill Scews” most likely used. Also this applies to some high performance self tapping screws. The material used in common bolts (grade 2) is garden variety. The heat treatment is simple. When you get into a “Tapping” screw, where the threads form or make threads in the material, there is a different grade used and the heat treatment is different. The case or the exterior portion of the screw that is “specially hardened” is around 0.008” (EIGHT thousand’s of an inch). The drill points are more… Thus, the exterior deforms the material that the screw is driven into. BUT….that Screw is BRITTLE as in would snap. The second part of the process is to draw down or decrease the brittleness in the interior or core. There is a second furnace used. It has a lower temperature than the first “hardening” furnace. The core is the. More ductile or is not brittle. BUT that sucker ain’t like a un hardened or soft bolt….NOW SS bolts are harder. So, you need a special CARBIDE TIPPED bit. A titanium coated bit, usually, ain’t gonna do squat. NOW….you have to go to a larger size screw….if you drill it out, most folks use a larger bit. OPPS…now the hole is too large. Many folks here have great experience. If you use a smaller carbide tipped drill and a lubricant….you MIGHT drill it and then put an “Easy Out” in it… There are blind, threaded flat rivets that you can buy on Amazon and they work great. Folks have used SS Pop Rivets. Just be aware, drilling out an Aluminum pop rivet is child’s play compared to a comparable sized SS one.

First, lets set the record straight. You are “mixing” things and its better for those reading this to understand the whole story. There is, I think, a file or two that goes into detail. Circa 2005 or so, Monaco “updated” ALL DYNASTY and above to TWO DIFFERENT “Intellitec” systems. The first….and which Frank alluded to, as well as the OP’s question is in the Front and Rear RUN BAYS. Don’t hold me to the numbers, someone needs to count….and it IS on the drawings, There are about 13 or so Front RUN Bay boards. There are about 8 or so Rear RUN bay boards. These are the BOARDS IN QUESTION. @Frank McElroy and @pwhittle are members that can, at a much lower “tip”, analyze and replace chips and reprogram these. In some cases, they also can “fix” a board that has a shorted out (OPEN) copper trace or the strips on the bottom. There is one other source, but their prices and credibility and quality has been called into question by some members as well as field techs who diagnose and isolate a board and ship it to them. We are FORTUNATE to have this resource here. Continuing…..the “upgrade” circa 2005/6 was “sporadic” at best. We have owners of 2005 Executives that have the ORIGINAL, Non Intellitec MH as wells as owners that DO. Supposedly, the higher ends were done first…then down the food chain. The RULE of thumb was that the Dynasty was a 2006 upgrade. BUT Monaco published TWO different manuals in 2005 for them. BOTTOM LINE…we have to ASK or have a member post pictures of the Front or Rear to determine which system….and, unfortunately, many responses or advice from the NON Intellitec owners is given to Intellitec owners…. Then the member with the problem is totally confused and frustrated as the component or circuit or whatever they are told to find….AIN’T IN THEIR MH. Moving along. The INTERIOR Intellitec Multiplexed Lighting and lighted key pads and Central Processing Unit and the “output modules” were also included…. The circuit boards in question here are NOT MULTIPLEXED….they are funky with all sorts of lights and test buttons and such….but they send out conventional Analog (12 VDC signals). OK….take a deep breath…..it gets WORSE. NOW…. You mentioned the infamous KONGSBERG CCM (Chassis Control Modules)that are in the FRONT RUN BAY. That eliminates the Intellitec boards….which is the issue. HOWVER..all but ONE of the Rear Intellitec Boards was also replaced. It is MY UNDERSTANDING, that only the #6 Intellitec Board in the REAR RUN bay was a “HOLDOVER” in the NEW (and improved?) CCM System. That, BTW, runs or controls the BIRD charging system and Boost and such… NOW….again, the inconsistency of Monaco comes out. SOME of the Dynasty in 2008, had a K’B CCM….a rare few….but out there. Supposedly, the SIG’s in 2008 WERE CCM. NOT ALWAYS TRUE. BUT, supposedly….all as in EVERY ONE of the 2009 models was CCM. Now….is this in concrete? NOPE. Sometimes an older model with “fall out” or be in a transition year and get “a next year model number”. So, we always ASK for photos to verify folk’s issues before we delve in….and hope that other contributing members understand the nuances …but unfortunately, many folks spend time hunting for something that is NOT on their MH, due to an inaccurate post. Sorry for the length….but sometimes a simple question has to be answered with “IT DEPENDS”…..Frank just posted with a comment….mine matches his and I just went into more detail and background….as this post can be used for information….

SORT OF A WHIMSICAL retort to the AUSSIE. I was at the NCAA Men Basketball Final Four in Phoenix a few weeks ago. We had a Jeep rental and were doing some sight seeing. My BIL was driving and is not exactly the most coordinated and he has difficulty in moving his head whilst driving... I do a LOT of praying when he is zipping downhill at 80 MPH and can't "see". He was in a hurry and handed me back our NP Golden Eagle Pass. He said here...and just dropped it. OPPS...I did not have time to grasp it. SO, it fell between the seat and the console. TOTALLY out of reach. I contrived a method of using duct tape (adhesive exposed) on a dowel to extricate it. We drove on and I caught up with a couple in a Class C. I conned them out of a foot of Gorilla Duct Tape. VERY NICE folks. They had just bought a used (26 years old) Caravan and Toad in Florida....and were driving back across the US and headed for California... The gentleman gave me a guided tour of the unit and how pristine it was. He then said that he had searched all over the US to find it. He went ON. As long as it was over 25 years OLD...it was considered as an ANTIQUE and NOT subject to import duties....which were unbelievable. As I understood it...these restrictions were set up by the Aussie government to encourage local manufacturing. SO, he could NOT afford to buy a newer Caravan in the US and import it as the cost would be prohibitive... We have NOT, to my knowledge, ever had an Aussie or a NZ'er post here. I DO know from a few trips to NZ and AU, the there are few, if any "NEW CARS". There is a trade agreement (or there was in 1995) that allowed older (2 -3 YO) Japanese (as in MADE IN JAPAN) cars to be imported with NO IMPORT fees. There was, said the economics professor that was our host, a tax on OLDER cars in Japan....so you had to sell or trade your car before it was, say 4 years or so old, otherwise there was a 25% tax....and then it escalated. Afterwards, I started looking at the cars.... ALL Japanese....very few German car brands. MAY NOT BE THE SAME NOW...but the RV Aussie owner, very astute and knowledgable.....gave me an ECON lesson in the Petrified Forest. BTW... I removed a plastic wand from the drapery in the hotel and "snuck" it out....but on the way to breakfast...it hit me. My old 4 finger "Tool Picker Upper" at home was shot. I bought a new one at O'Reilly's and extricated the credit card style pass in less than 15 seconds. I must have spent hours contemplating HOW to lift it up with various devices that I had on me. OK...back to fixing Monaco's here.... @96 EVO Ben, PLEASE TELL ME that you do NOT have an auxillary Chinese Diesel Heater in your Scepter... I worry about you... LOL...

Keith, Our MH's are complex and many folks don't have the electrical expertise to fully understand them. But, we all have to learn. Here is two resources for you as well as some help to improve your trouble shooting skills. First, you PROBABLY, I hope, have the owner's manual. If so, you have prints. If you scroll through the back of the manual, there is a print called DYN NAV EXE SIG Power Entry Step Wiring. I pulled this on from the 2003 Dynasty. FWIW. The Dynasty and UP all had the same basic wiring harnesses. There were items or features that were added to the upper ends, so they were INCLUDED on the prints....but specific for that model. The step is the SAME. Here is the print for yours... If your print is different, then Monaco made a change. BUT, most likely....this is it. Monaco made a MAJOR change in the electrical systems circa 2005/6. SO, odds are, any comments or help for those years might be a wild goose chase...or it might be right. SO, we, the Moderators, always find a set of drawing that is one year older or younger and we can help in 90% of the issues. There are typically at least 5 or 6 different "FUSES" in our MH. An Inline fuse is a glass fuse in a cylindrical holder or it can be a blade fuse in a socket. Next up are the Circuit Breakers. Monaco used the term "CB" and there are many in your MH. This is a device that will "trip" when something happens...but if the condition corrects itself, it then resets AUTOMATICALLY and all is well. Headlights is one of the issues. Next is a Mini-Circuit Breaker. Look on the print. There is a Mini -Breaker in the REAR RUN box (Plate). This is the 20 Amp one. It will be a "square" device...looks like a Relay. There is a lever or arm on it. When it trips, the lever will be hanging down or will be obvious that it has tripped. You can look at the surrounding ones... Their levers will be tight or close and that is the normal position. You push the lever back to where it is close to the body. BINGO....if is reset. NOW if there is STILL a "short" or issue, it will immediately TRIP again. It works exactly like a Circuit Breaker in your home panel. THIS IS THE POWER to the step. EDIT....another moderator just sent me a photo and I pulled two from my files. The TOCAS is a "Mini Style" breaker. It is a 150 Amp. Lower amperage ones may be "smaller". If you look at the second photo, the Auto RESET is the small black box on the circuit board. The final photo with the switch also has the "same" 150 Amp Breaker as the first. Look in the lower right corner and that is how it is installed. Your Dynasty may have them on a rack or a board....so look at the labels. END OF EDIT... Also NOTICE...there is a 5 Amp FUSE that provides an Ignition Signal. It is located in the Front Run bay. There are diagrams in the manual as well as in the prints that show the location. There is also a decal on every fuse block that lists the fuses. BOTH these have to work. So, that's it. NOW....continuing....there are TWO types of fuses on your MH, or at least on MOST. There are larger Mini Fuses....that have higher current. Don't know about the size...but if you see a black box with a lever (sometimes red or yellow) then it can be a Breaker or a Mini-Breaker. If the arm is tripped or hanging out...it is an open circuit. There MAY be long fuses.. BUSSMANN was usually the brand. You can see the fusable link (the part that melts) under the plastic cover. There is also a HIGH CURRENT FUSE that is connected to the Positive on your Inverter. In your case, it might be 300 Amp, 350 Amps or 400Amps. Monaco kept changing. THAT THE DRILL... NOW, to help you in the future....do some YouTube digging and you can learn to do electrical trouble shooting and how to use a Volt Ohm Meter. You will have, unless you intend to have a tech fix everything, to learn to use a VOM. YouTube has probably 100 Videos... NEXT UP. Here is the prints or the 2003 Dynasty. I would download them. This print has one valuable tool....you can SEARCH for any specific item....like STEP. The person that supplied us with them did a "WORD" Index as the first page. He listed the drawing name and the page of the PDF that they are in. If you look at any Adobe Reader.. there is a FIND TEXT OR TOOLS (magnifying glass) in the upper right corner. Put in STEP and hit enter. It will show you EVERY print that has the word "STEP" in it. A WHOLE LOT quicker than scrolling through. If you don't know how to use this Adobe feature, google it and learn. it is a TIME SAVER. That's it. Good Luck. Here are the 2003 Dynasty Drawings... 2003 Dynasty and UP Step diagram.pdf

All I know is that the “goto” Proflex sealant, from memory, said “NOT FOR ACRYLICS”. In addition Fantastic Fans specified the DiCor Lap Sealant….which is self leveling. I know, from talking to tech support at Geocell and DiCor, that these two caulks or sealants are compatible and will cross link and bond. If you use the recommended sealant, without consulting with their tech support, as well as GeoCell, the, I THINK, supplier for the OEM installation, then you may have to totally abrade and solvent clean the area to ensure a complete adhesion…..and in the future, have to only use the Surebond on the skylight. You can pull down the tech data sheets and installation instructions one all three products. I have a background in industrial and construction and roofing and I did a lot of online research as well as talking to vendors before I installed my new FF vent covers and also the compatibility of the ProFlex and Dicor. What I posted was based on many hours of research..and this ain’t my first rodeo. So when i post information, it comes from my engineering background as well as hands on experience and knowledge…l It was posted as a aid and based on many posts here on the skylights and waterproofing and leak issues. This is your project so, whether you use the experience of myself and many other members is your call. OK….curiosity and technical knowledge is a curse. Too much research…. https://www.natconusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Acryl-R-SM5504-TDS.pdf This is what was used as the caulk or sealant for your skylight. ACRYL-R. In your manual. It is a solvent based sealer. It is an Acrylic and not a butyl rubber. The Geocell 2300 was used for all other joints, save the windshield. The “low VOC” Proflex is compatible with the Geocell 2300. But NOT nor was intended for use on an Acrylic surface….like the skylight….. Surebond is a Butyl Rubber product, but it dries or skins over similar to both the Proflex and DiCor 501LSW materials… It is still, as the ACRYL-R, a “solvent based”. It has about have the amount of pure VOC or solvents in it. PERSONAL OPINION. It will probably bond or crosslink with the OEM ACRYL-R. I would make a judgement call as I worked and not go crazy and rip up good caulk or the OEM. Cleaning the OEM, as long as still bonded, with mineral spirits or acetone will activate the surface and promote bonding or crosslinking. Get RID of any other “not the right stuff” caulk. Many folks throw silicone to seal….the absolute worst thing to do. The Di-Cor 501 LSW will work and be compatible with either. Don’t know the viscosity of the SureBond. The OEM ACRYL-R sort of flowed out like thick molasses and it is easier for me to do a good job as it is easier to work with….as is the Di-Cor. I pulled the MSDS and tech specs and instructions on all 4…just to compare. Thats my opinion and understanding of them and their type and intended usage. Good Luck..

Wow, you sound industrious….sometimes a blessing….others call it a curse. First….for you edification and also to help you use the sight… https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=Shower skylight&quick=1&type=forums_topic I used the search box in the upper right. I used two key words. Shower and skylight. I then clicked on everywhere….and chose “TOPICS”. Here is the results. Take some time and click on each one. Then scroll up or down and get the gist of the topic….often times the titles are a bit misleading or the “intent” of the topic sort of shifted. Takes a little time, but you will find a world of help as to how others accomplished what you intend to do. If you haven’t downloaded the PARTS LIST….do a search. Use PARTS. This time select FILES from “everywhere”. Now, look at the top of the first page and check the Adobe Reader tools. There is a FIND….as in a key word or phrase. I would do two. Skylight and Shower. That will list the vendors folks have used….so, you have a LOT of relavent information….as some might not respond as they are busy. Folks here, memory, have done some unique and perhaps NON MONACO OEM “things”. I will comment on two that struck me. First the sealant. Ordinarily PROFLEX is the sealant that most use. Somewhere in my mind, a warning pops up. DO NOT USE ON ACRYLIC. That came from getting freebie kits to replace the covers on the Fantastic fans. They sent me DiCor “EPDM” LAP SEALANT. FF said that was their choice…as this was a large “customer complaint” resolution. The original sealant, probably called out in your manual….a great resource….was GeoCell. It is a “volatile cure” sealant and the industry switched over to Non Volatile and GeoCel(L) developed ProFlex. So read up on what was used originally. The original GeoCel was an industry standard. It was more vicious than most others and Monaco would “squirt” it generously and it would crawl or “self level”. The new proflex is thicker and won’t spread or self level as nicely or neatly. However, the DiCor Lap Sealant is closer to the OEM Geocel and spreads and levels and you don’t have to do as much “touch up” or spreading. Another thing many of us have learned….be careful and do NOT tear up what ain’t broke. We often touch up or recoat the flange sealant on the roofs. We use blue painters tape and go about an inch out and make a “box”. Then you clean the old sealant or caulk with Simple Green. If there is black mold or mildew (common in the south from pine trees) a little bleach (diluted say 5 - 10 to ONE) will remove the stain and you get better adhesion with the new sealer. I go stronger and use Bleech White (outside and ventilated) and it really cleans the existing caulk of sealer. Rinse thoroughly. Then let it dry and Lightly recoat the entire area. The original sealer will have some “entraned” air or bubbles. Easy to seal them. ONE point..as you get to the edge of the blue tape masking….use a 1” of so putty knife and taper the thickness….that way you have a thinner edge or thickness against the blue tape. Let it cure. Then as you remove the blue tape, use a razor blade and CUT, not tear the caulk…neater and more waterproof. Never have i totally scrapped up or peeled up every square inch of sealer. If the caulking is adhered well, then the new top coat of sealer or caulk will crosslink and it is totally “waterproof”. If you have to use a lot of muscle and putty knives and literal “cut off” the caulking….odds are…it is OK. NOW some folks have used EternaBond to tie or seal down the flange. This DOES require scrapping and chipping off all and getting a clean firm flat surface. Imhave done that a few places. BUT I use Acetone (SPARINGLY) and a small bristle brush. The acetone dissolves the loose caulk as well as “primes or activates” the surface area. Then EternaBond adheres well. That my take on it….. Good Luck.

YEP. We are on the same page. This is called, and I have wired them in many houses, a “LINE VOLAGE Thermostat. Was meant to work, at least the ones I used, on 240 or 120 VAC. Two incoming contacts….two outgoing contacts. All you need to use is the “switched” contacts. HOWEVER, some were Dual Pole….so when the diaphragm closed the switch….BOTH contacts closed. So, use a VOM and verify or look at instructions. Honeywell or Johnson Controls makes the same….in degrees F. BUT many did NOT have an OFF. You need one with an off position. That is the only way to salvage a botched RecPro install if the control module and wiring have been botched or destroyed. But, you need to “hide or disguise” the cable….thus snake or run down a closet or such. #14 wire is fine. All the T’Stat does is make or break a circuit….

OK….GENERIC. Somewhere behind or near and under the battery box, there are TWO ground studs with at least one 4/0 cable connected….maybe a few more. One is the HOUSE and one is CHASSIS. Loosen or remove both….clean and reassemble….obviously turn OFF both the house and chassis positive disconnects. that happened to me. You have diagnosed it correctly…. BUT. Go up front ALSO. Chase the cables from the rear studs and clean the ground one and check the positive one. Everything worked fine and had ample battery for inverting….but the corroded House ground stud in the back was it. Spray the studs with Battery Corrosion protectant…

OK…ASSUME that you mean the AC POWER BOARD…. 3109229.009. We call that the CONTROL MODULE. Use this link. This is “PROBABLY” the one you need….item 46. https://rvpartsexpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/Roof-Mount-HVAC-Parts-List-3307768-014.pdf NOW to be sure…you need the Model Number and SN. You call Dometic or either someone like in the picture or BryantRV (google Bryant RV Air Conditioner Parts. Call them and verify that is the board is the correct PN….FOR YOUR UNIT! Then you can shop. Amazon usually sells them cheaper….but you need the CORRECT (Verified) PN. No one, to date, here has commented, memory, on troubleshooting and rebuilding the boards….but that is not a 100% bet money on it statement…. DON’T ASK….whatever is below is something that Apple put in and I can't delete from iPD. DISREGARD.

OK….one at a time. If you choose a Coleman or such, then mounting a Microair thermostat will not work. You need control wiring (5 conductor) to the Coleman or any typical ceiling unit…with or without a heat pump. Monaco never ran wires for a conventional system. You need a thermostat cable from the new MicroAir to the ceiling as well as wire to the furnace. MicroAir thermostat requires either a thermostat cable (multiple wires) or a MPX Data cable for a Dometic or Penguin system….and the 4/5 and 10 button are not interchangeable. Next up…the popular Houghton RecPro has only a cooling thermostat.Also, there is only one brand and style of “dumb” thermostat that will work. If you use a typical RV thermostat, you must put in a relay to have dry or unpowered contacts for the furnace. If you choose to use the MPX data cables….and MicroAir makes one for the old (4/5) and new (10) button units, you STILL have to have the individual unit control modules in place. Otherwise, if you choose a NON MPX or a “Coleman Style” RV unit….hard wired multiple (cable) wire from thermostat to ceiling… Just making sure some other member does not take your generic comment and then try to implement and run into the complexity and reality of “project”…as many have….and regretted…. These little nuances are not fully understood..

If you search and read here….THIS IS how it has to work. It matters not if you have one thermostat with a furnace and multiple zones….such as a single thermostat in the front and it controls the the front unit as well as zone 2 and it controls the back unit…or if you have a front and rear thermostat….and single or multiple furnaces or an Aquahot with several zones…. It also matters not if you have a 4 button or a 5 button Duo Therm/Dometic thermostat. The data cable (think phone wire) starts at the thermostat. It runs to the front unit and is connected to a Control Module on the unit (for the 13.5 K in the plenum..INSIDE and for a 15K…on the roof under the cover). There is 12 VDC and 120 VAC that comes to the unit. The data cable runs to the thermostat. 2 wires provide 12 VDC. The other two wires carry a multiplexed data signal from the thermostat to the control unit. That signal tells the HVAC to cool or heat if also a heat pump. It also controls the fan mode and such. IF there is a furnace connection for the front (zone 1), then it controls the furnace. IF the thermostat controls the rear (bedroom zone 2), then that data cable runs back to the rear unit. There is a similar control module there….and there is a remote temp sensor on the wall. If you have TWO furnaces….then one will be connected to the control module. If only ONE for the MH….then there will be NO “Furnace” or HEAT mode for Zone 2. The Dometic Multiplexed thermostats do NOT work like a home thermostat….with a 5 or 7 wire cable running to the roof top or the furnace. All the signals are electronically sent (digital) to whichever control module needs help. The caveat….you can NOT heat in the front and cool in the rear.. NOW, the furnaces that Monaco used were NON CONVENTIONAL units. They only have two wires. There is incoming 12VDC to the control board. These furnaces are “DUMB”. There is a two wire pair, often called the BLUE wires that is connected the HAVAC unit up front. The furnace only knows one thing. If there is a circuit or the two wires are “switched” on (think twisting a wire nut on them), the furnace comes on. Break the circuit or disconnect them. OFF. YES….you can install the RecPro and use the ceiling thermostat (or maybe your phone) and you operate the Air Conditioner. BUT….there is NO circuit or connection to run or operate the furnace. You have to remove the control units from each Dometic HVAC and then “reinstall” each on the plenum. Now, you have to find the pair of wires that connected to the plug on the control unit. Dometic uses BLUE…but Monaco ran two wires to the furnace. Some were color coded….some were “white” with a label. These wires have to be connected directly to the Furnace Contacts on the controller. The thermostat and the controller(s) have to be wired exactly as they were in the original Monaco MH. You have to do a reset. You will ONLY have HEAT or a Furnace ZONE…I think. If you have AC, it is connected to NOTHING and won’t control the RecPro SO, the only thing that the old or original thermostat now controls or will control is the furnace. Many folks, as well as at least 50% of the technicians never understood this. They would rip out the old rooftop unit and throw it away with the control module. They did not look at the print on the original unit and then figure out how to hook up the 120VAC and maybe the 12 VDC. But there were more wires….two of them were the wires to the furnace….and they were left disconnected. There is a TON of information and frustration on the Air Stream sites and the RecPros were the “cheaper” option…. There was maybe a dozen or so “authorized” factory repair shops in the US that actually made the old Dometic (Duo Therm) system work and the thermostat would control the furnace. Most had wire mold installed and the two wires from the furnace were run from the furnace and up the wall. The “Coleman” and other “Generic RV Thermostat” were all DC powered. You can NOT use one of these. When you try, the Furnace OUTPUT did strange things. The two wires were electically neutral or insulated or isolated. Putting 12 VDC on them was known to cause issues or blow fuses or not work, it FINALLY hit some of the shops. You had to use the Furnace Output 12 VDC on a relay coil. Then the two wires from the furnace were on the contacts….so in effect….think of it as an “electronic” light switch. If you ran the two wires inside the Motor home….you could use a wall light switch or any switch….flip the switch ON….furnace runs….turn it off….Furnace is OFF. Coleman also says flat out….we do NOT make an RV thermostat with DRY or no POWER furnace output. Somewhere, and I have posted this many times, is a special mechanical (no incoming power) thermostat on Amazon. It allows you to adjust the temperature and it operates and runs the furnace. BUT, it HAS to have or should have an OFF setting. Many don't… THUS…a functional thermostat hard wired from the furnace… THAT’s IT. As a Moderator, we warn folks that the RecPro solution requires extensive knowledge of the system. BUT, from a coat standpoint, it may be more costly than replacing the Penguins and updating to the new CCC2 MPX system. The 4 button is extinct…you can find old, maybe refurbished 5 button. MicroAir sells a replacement for around $400 (last I heard). The 5 button CCC Control Module is still in production….but eventually it will be discontinued. So, if it dies, a new one will be around $200. Therefore, to keep your old furnace running, you will spend up to $600. Microair has been a bit elusive. A member once posted that MicroAir will “reflash” or convert the old 5 button to the new CCC2 syatem…10 button? BUT, he never confirmed…Microair told me….NOPE…buy the NEW 10 button replacment…or $400. Many members have successfully kept and rewired, properly, the 5 button system. Many members have made disparaging remarks in that we moderators don’t like the RecPro’s and they are up to day and very intelligent. That is NOT THE CASE. The RecPros work great as stand alone units, if RecPro would incorporate a dry (no voltage) set of contacts that would also operate a furnace so that you had dual mode ….CHILL, OFF, HEAT….that would be a perfect solution. There are also comments about MicroAir. Yes, they are technologically better than the Dometic and folks enjoy the phone programming…compared to,the older of existing ones. BUT the techs at MicroAir said, point blank, we do NOT understand nor can help you troubleshoot the Dometic MPX control system. Dometic has to do that. Dometic is less than willing, we have been told, to try to troubleshoot a failed system as they have NO knowledge of the internal MicroAir systdm. What we have learned and post is that a mixed system is difficult. One member said MicroAir was sending a new thermostat. All well and good…but the issue was in the Dometic Control Module. He eventually, swapped the front to the rear….bingo…problem moved. A NEW thermostat would NOT have fixed that. Just want folks to understand that a cheaper system, which uses old and antiquated controls might, in the long run cost them more…but many folks intrnd to gef rid of the MH in the next few years and are willing to gamble, Hope this makes sense…and that you now have a better understanding. Wihiut knowing if your control modules were salvaged and hooked up, properly, difficult to help trouble shoot…

Word of caution. Dometic warns folks as well as does Lazy Days in their “Everything you need to know about your rooftop AC” seminar….do NOT put in a fancy air filter system without testing it. Wash and clean the original dometic filter. Then run the AC unit for an hour so so to get the room stabilized. Measure the temperature of the inlet (filter) and the closest register or vent. The difference (Delta T) should be between 18 and 22 Degrees. If you have a clogged or dirty filter, it will increase to as much as 26 degrees (difference or Delta T). That means the air movement is being blocked and you will have poor cooling or little dehumidification. SOME of the homemade or the commercial units actaully block or impede the air flow….like a clogged filter. If you have one of these, then the system is working harder and you are not getting 100% MAX Cooling efficiency. Folks say….mine is better than new or it’s a super cooler and report high Delta T but the air flow is impeded and that’s the reason for the high or out of range Delta T…which reduces the cooling ability to cool.

This was a double post….as in a duplicate post, copied, and then posted to two different, but similar or exactly the same, older, topics…. Here the the response….so it answers, on both topic, your questions…. YOU have to make a call. You have the standard Duo Therm Multiplexed control system. If you don’t put in Penguins then you cannot control your furnace. You will have to install a separate thermostat, one for each furnace….or one if you only have one. You will need to find units that have remote thermostats (wireless or BT). There is not any other system that will work with the existing Duo Therm MPX control system. A few folks have installed Houghtons. But you have to keep the old thermostat and the control units from the Duo Therm to make the Furnace functional…but the Houghton AC units will not work with the Duo Therm thermostat. A few folks have totally rewired their MH and used Colemans. They had to run a 5 or 7 wire cable to the Roof top unit. Wiremold or figure out how to snake the wire up the wall or use exterior wiremold to the rooftop likewise run cables to the furnaces. That’s the basics. Monaco chose the single or double thermostat, in some cases, Duo Therm system. It only required a data cable (think phone line….with different connections) from the thermostat. You ran 120 VAC and 12 VDC to the units. Easier install. Also, you had one simple system and the thermostat controlled many zones. It was a selling point or a “high end feature in a lower end” MH. There are probably 10 different topics that have been posted here. All the same….keep the central features and install new Dometic’s or go with other brands and run wires or snake them or run wire mold up and down the walls and on the ceilings. Put Duo Therm in the search box…..click on everywhere….chose topics. Probably 25 plus pages…. Please do the research on this…lit is all in here…. Thanks….

Yes, but if you use WIPER ARM in search box then click on EVERWHERE, you will get all the posts. Over the years, these posts have a link or a name to every vendor since 2000 or so and also links to aftermarket distributors that can readily identify the OEM vendor and have parts or have sourced replacement parts for those vendors that may no longer be in business. AM is usually the first GOTO as they dominated the wiper suppliers. Download the parts list. It has at least 3 or more. Diesel Equipment (add wiper blades when you google) has been the BEST OTHER source. They understand the systems and have arms that are better than OEM’S The AM arms are a bit on the puny side for the 32” blades. I have new ones and run 28” and they work great. The area not cleaned is for the panorama stuff you see in photos and not critical to driving. The 28” blades also will make the motor and linkage last longer… way less drag so the motor is not stressed to max force. BTW…I used to visit the ANCO plant and talked to the engineers. ANCO made all the arms and blades for every OEM AM unit. AM LATER outsourced them when we closed the ANCO plant…

Just to clear the air and set the record straight. Frank is the only person that has successfully repaired the K’B CCM switch modules. Frank took this on as a “personal” challenge maybe a year of so ago. He had helped some recover functions and started to understand the MPX system. The saga or story of how he was able to “download and reprogram or fix” any of the components” is documented in the topics. Do a search of KONGSBERG” and select TOPICS. He has posted the “gist” of his journey. He set up a “bench” line where he had a complete CCM system breadboarded together and had every function, as in the output signals to EVERY K’B controlled component, working. With that rig, he can diagnose any issue. He also was able to download and store every module’s program. Memory says there are at least 7 or 8 discrete chip programs for the system. Then, he developed a method to remove the “chip”, which is surface mounted on each device….and replace with a new, virgin unprogrammed chip….with precision as the 28 (memory) contacts….7 per side…placement has to be within maybe 0.003”. Once replaced, then he has the ability to reprogram the chip with the OEM program….making it 100% functional. In some cases, I think he has also repaired other items or restored a faulty “trace”. There are no other shops or individuals in the US that have accomplished this….much less have a smattering of his technology and expertise. It has been a “life saver” for our members. There is a 30+ page topic here of how a member bought a “salvaged” MH and had the moxie to make it quasi roadworthy…as in drive it home. The switches had been “tested” by another shop, only to discover that the original switches sent in, many of which were known good, were NOT returned and were replaced with defective ones. THUS, that shop is one that we now have concerns about. The above is the gist of how this saga ended and Frank is the only person to persevere and develop the methodology as well as fabricate the jig for replacement and also “crack the code”….as in learned how, with many hours of experiments and also totally drew up a schematic of the boards…to get a copy of the programs. This is a feat beyond all electronics comprehension unless one was there, via emails, texts, photos as well as many phone calls…..which I was fortunate enough to be involved. As Paul Harvey would say…..now you know the REST OF THE STORY….

I WISH I got a commission from Magnum. BUT, at least you did NOT purchase a new inverter....without knowing that the OLD ONE is dead. Good Deal. It will fit. You will really enjoy the NEW inverter and the features on the NEW remote. I still, like Ben (96 EVO) have my original....but all of the function and features of the NEW remote are NOT IN the old inverter. Better to start with NEW stuff... Let us KNOW. Follow the instructions. You will, I THINK, get a NEW Batt Temp Sensor. Install it. BUT, if you want to be super safe, don't bolt it to the rear NEGATIVE. Use a piece of Gorilla tape and put the metal tab (the one with the hole) against the case. Use zip ties and make a "loop" that will fit around the case and then use that to secure the BTS. You PROBABLY are OK...with a NEW ONE...but they short out.... DO NOT USE THE OLD ONE....say good bye to it... The AGS depends on if you HAD one and if it is working...but if you need or decide you want it....then the NEW "-N" AGS is great....and the new remote makes it easy to use. Way less complicated than programming an old VSH Recorder. LOL. Keep us posted.

Coach Battery to Inverter (for both Charging or Inverting...as providing 120 VAC) is a FUNCTION of the Inverter and the Battery bank. I don't know all the electronics on your coach. You need to look at the prints. BUT, the Remote and the Inverter and the Battery (House) are all interconnected. Fuses up front are not, for the most part, involved. Read your Manual and download your Inverter Manual. Start on page 307 of the LaPalma manual. If it were ME....then, here's my UNIVERSAL FIX. Turn OFF the 30 Amp Breaker marked Inverter on the Main Panel. Turn off the Battery Disconnect Switch. Unhook the Solar Battery wires or cover the Solar panel with a blanket...if you have one. Then unhook the Positive of the HOUSE battery. NOW, disconnect or unbolt the Positive and Negative cables on the inverter. NOW>>> Let that sit for an hour or so. THEN, reverse. Hook back up the inverter cables and keep going until you turn on the 30 Amp breaker. That clears all the electronic currents or stored gremlins out of the inverter. Follow the steps in the Manual as how to set up and run. If that doesn't do it... Then check. Is the Inverter, with AC OFF, providing you with internal AC power (try an outlet and check the Microwave). IF ALL IS WELL...then there MAY be a problem. BUT, if it doesn't invert....then you have to look at your diagrams or start following the cables from the Inverter. There will be a FUSE for the inverter. Typically a 200 Amp one. May be BIG or may be round. If that fuse is BLOWN....then you will not be able to INVERT or Charge. That's the short version.

Yes….so is mine. BUT after the hard reset, if it is NOT charging….and the Magnum Tech’s verified it is KAPUT….it is dead. The board alone is more than $700 Your remote probably works. Mine died..Just a matter of how used, conditions, power, blips. YES, we both be living on borrowed time. My Hard Restart average, in at least 20 instances, is probably 80%, I’ll take those…but John’s died….

Be a big spender. Order the new ME-RC remote. NOT THE MC-ACR, There are many features in the new inverter that the old remote will not have or allow or interface with. Likewise, when i replaced my old remote, I picked up a LOT of features. I do not know, Magnum will have to comment, if your present, assuming you have one, 4 knob AGS will work….or if that is something you use. The original 4 knob had serious “design” issues. But the new “-N” AGS plugs in and no issues. MY 4 Knob unit failed after 3 years. The “-N” AGS is 10 years old….easy to use. JUST INFO & FOOD FOR THOUGHT….

You need to talk to one of the following... @Frank McElroy or @Scotty Hutto They are more familiar with the BMK. IF you already have the BMK installed, and by that, I mean PROPERLY....as some were not or folks didn't understand, these guys can help you. As to the BTS. That is a matter of PREFERENCE. It MAY be that the Previous Owner (PO), since you speak in acronyms, decided NOT to use it. It is nothing more than a Contact Thermocouple. The ring terminal or the mounting tab is supposed to go to the MOST Rearward Negative on any bank...since you have, probably TWO House banks. BUT, if there is a failure of the Thermcouple, then it has been known to have issues. The heat conducting tab is supposed to be "insulated", but it if shorts out, then it could, conceivably, send a GROUND signal to the Inverter from the "Supposed to isolated" leads of the thermostat...on the phone cable connector. Folks have been known to Duct Tape it or use Zip Ties (daisy chained in to a big loop or use and HVAC Duct Zip tie) and secure it to the side of the battery case. It will read temps there...probably not as accurately as the metal Negative Plate stud or terminal, but it will NOT, if shorted, give you a potential problem. As to how to RUN... Frank has a 2008 Dynasty....maybe he can shoot a picture and PM it to you. That's about it. I THINK that Scotty did some setup work on the ME-ACR. I do NOT have the BMK and I wrote the file on how to setup the OLD and NEW ME-RC... Hope this helps.

Figured that or that you knew that. But also wanted to confirm my suspicions. Thanks for the update….

Check the prints. There may or may not be a “FUSE” to the pump. Odds are there is a resettable Circuit breaker in the RRB. The Patriot (Same a Dynasty) uses breakers. The hydraulic leveling system was a “supplemental” or option to the normal air bag leveling. It may or may NOT be part of the HWH system for the slides….unless he has electric front slides. Since it is an “intellitec MPX” unit, the HWH hydraulic uses a “control” box for the slides. NOW…it gets tricky, so, all this comment is …..is generic for the HWH slides…. There are two signals that have to go to any hydraulic “system” to deploy slides or, I think, conversely, jacks. One is a “Pump Start”. That is a signal (stays on while motor running) to energize or engage the Pump Motor solenoid. That solenoid then closes and the High Current resettable circuit breaker power goes to the Pump motor. There is a corresponding signal that goes to the appropriate solenoid to allow the fluid to flow. The 05 Dynasties that did NOT have the Intellitec MPX, so it had plain switches to activate the slides….thus they were hard wired. When the Dynasty went to the MPX system, in 2006, Monaco had to add the more sophisticated HWH control box. The Pump Start signal came from the Circuit board in the box. Then there was an individual relay for each solenoid also in the box. So, it got a bit more “complicated”. NOW….if there was a “full wall slide”, Monaco did NOT use the HWH Hydraulic system for it. There was a separate “Hydraulic” pump and reservoir on the rig…..folks spent a lot of time troubleshooting their HWH Slide system trying to make the full slide work…. OPPS….stand alone. I have no idea how the jack system works on a Dynasty….but one needs to know if it is part of an HWH Slide or a separate Hydraulic pack, most likely a Lippert for the Jacks…. Monaco used Lippert systems and controls a lot. Odds are, the leveling unit is a Valid/Powergear system….so knowing “where” that unit if and whether if is part of a slide system or stand alone is critical…. Frank and I spent a LOT of time “helping” a tech fix an HWH for a slide….until the owner told us it was a Full Wall and that slide was NOT powered by the HWH system…. The things you learn…. Good luck….keep us posted….

John and I have talked….and he is going to test the inverter using the default or built in parameters…..and will post the results.