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Steve Hepfer

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Posts posted by Steve Hepfer

  1. Thanks to all for the input. With the help of a good friend we disconnected almost everything wire by wire. Still not sure why my meter kept reading 28V but once we reconnected everything I pressed the ON/OFF button on the inverter it reset and for now all is well. 

  2. Scotty:

    For Item 4.4.1 Line 1 above, when the coach is disconnected from shore power there is nothing. When pressing the ON/OFF button without shore power there are no messages and no LED light on the Inverter reset button. When I am connected to shore power and press the ON/OFF button on the inverter the green LED comes on but does not go off

  3. 16 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

    First, try a soft reset of your inverter. If that doesn’t work try a power (hard) reset. Here are instructions from the Magnum manual:

    Under some fault conditions (e.g., an internal fault), the inverter will need to be reset. Prior to performing any reset, ensure all AC power (utility, generator, shorepower) is removed from the inverter's input.

    4.4.1 Performing an Inverter Reset

    To perform an inverter reset (also known as a “soft reset”):

    1. Press and hold the Power ON/OFF pushbutton (see Figure 4-1) for approximately fifteen (15) seconds until the Charging/Inverting Status LED comes on and flashes rapidly.

    IMG_6102.thumb.jpeg.8ddfe20ccc1413b2036f3569f77159e9.jpeg

    2. Once the rapid flashing has begun, release the Power ON/OFF pushbutton. The Status LED will go off after the pushbutton is released.

    3. After the inverter reset is completed, press the ON/OFF pushbutton to turn the inverter on.

    If the inverter reset fails, you will need to perform a power reset using the procedure below.

    In either case, if an internal fault does not clear, the inverter will require repair at an Authorized Service Center (ASC). Info: The Power ON/OFF pushbutton is a small momentary type switch which operates by lightly pressing and releasing. Be careful not to apply too much force when pushing or the switch might break.

    4.4.2 Performing a Power Reset

    To perform a power reset (also known as a “hard reset”):

    1. Open the inverter's positive DC disconnect (or disconnect the positive battery cable to the inverter). CAUTION: If removing all battery power (positive and negative) to the inverter, remove the positive battery connections fi rst, then remove the DC negative connections to the inverter or to any accessory. This will prevent damage to the inverter or to any network connected accessory.

    2. Ensure the inverter and the remote are disconnected from all AC and DC power (the remote display will be blank).

    3. After the inverter has been disconnected from all power for 30 seconds, reconnect the inverter DC disconnects (or reconnect the positive battery cable) and resume operation. Info: If DC disconnects are not used, there may be a momentary spark when the positive battery cable is connected to the inverter's terminal. This is normal and indicates that the inverter's internal capacitors are being charged.

     

     

  4. Some time last night I lost all power to our 2008 Diplomat 36PDQ. The Magnum Energy display board inside has a solid red fault light on and a blinking green light for the Charger.  The display panel says "Dead Batt Charge DC 0.0V 0A". If I press the inverter button I get a message "Low Battery DC 0.0V 0A". I am plugged in to 50 amp shore power and have 117V on one leg and 118V on the other. Need help figuring out how to restore power.

  5. I am having a similar problem even though slightly different. I am plugged into 50 amp shore power and both legs are reading 118 volts at the Progressive Surge protector. I too have the blinking light syndrome along with a constant clicking sound from the electrical panel. The Intellitec panel says that I have 30 amp even though I'm connected to 50. There is one 20 amp breaker I can turn off and the clicking goes away however the Intellitec display does also. I have replaced the breaker thinking that may solve the issue but it didn't. I am starting to think that the Intellitec board may be bad. I could use some help hear. TIA

    Steve Hepfer

    08 Diplomat 36PDQ

  6. 18 minutes ago, sg47619 said:

    Can’t get my Norcold fridge to turn on. No power to the controls on the front of the panel. It’s in a 2001 Monaco Dynasty Jack 38. 

    Check to see if any of your gfci outlets have tripped. Also check to see if it will run on propane

  7. 33 minutes ago, Garry Donohue said:

    I am just about to purchase pressure pro tire monitor system. Many in this forum say positive about them. My question is…Is there ever any problems with the signal strength between the RV front windshield and the toad     TPMS transmitters? It’s rather an expensive purchase and just wanted to be sure its what I want. Thanks 2007 Dynasty W/ Jeep Grand Cherokee toad. 

    I have a 36 foot Diplomat and had to get their antenna to boost the signal to the toad. Mounted it underneath on the frame

    • Like 1
  8. I too have the Cummins ISL-400 and agree with your comments about the exhaust brake. I mostly use mine when I may need to stop quickly. It also saves on the brake pads. My sweet spot is about the same as yours however I am getting slightly better fuel mileage. I typically use the cruise control with the Allison in Economy mode so it shifts at a lower speed. I typically hit 6th gear at 57 then will set my cruise. Once done I will then back the cruise down to 55mph. I typically get 10.5 mpg just letting it coast along on the interstate. I reset the mileage at each tank fill-up so I can monitor the mileage per tank. We just came home from a trip where we left Florida and went to Pigeon Forge, Tennessee. Each tank fill-up was about the same at 10.5 mpg except our last fill-up in north Florida. Driving from north Florida to Sarasota we got 11 mpg. Simply put the ISL-400 is a beast and perhaps one of the best engines on the road.

    • Like 1
  9. I previously reported for our 2008 Diplomat 36PDQ that I was having trouble with our dash AC not blowing cold. It was suggested to check the AC clutch fuse on F18. I did find that the fuse had blown and I replaced it which seemed to solve the problem HOWEVER it has since blown again which tells me that something else may be wrong causing the fuse to prematurely blow. Anyone have a hint of what to look for next? I am not an AC wizard so any help is appreciated. Thanks

     

    Steve Hepfer

  10. I use Howe's Diesel Treat with good results. Keep in mind that algae is caused by moisture in your fuel and using a Howe's product (there are several different ones) will help to eliminate that. You should also make sure that you store your coach with a full tank of fuel which will reduce the risk of moisture. Howe's products will also keep the injectors clean and improve you mileage. I started getting an extra 1.5 miles per gallon of fuel. Welcome aboard

  11. 24 minutes ago, Newcsn said:

    We have developed a knocking noise in the compressor of our residential fridge in our 06 Dynasty Diamond. Will the existing/original residential fridge fit out the door - and - will. Samsung RF 18 fir in the door? Or, will they both have to go through the window?

    Thanks for your feedback!

    I was able to remove the Norcold and bring in the Samsung through the front door. Remove the refrigerator doors first. Then remove the passenger seat and handrail. Also remove the swing arm on the front door. I did ours on a 300i Monaco Diplomat.

    Just now, Steve Hepfer said:

    300i

    2008

  12. I recently pulled into a level concrete pad campsite. Since it was very level I decided not to empty the air bags and level off. After 2 days I noticed that the coach has settled below the normal ride height on it's own. I this normal or do I have perhaps a leak in the airbags. They all seem to have settled uniformly. 

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