Steve Hepfer
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Posts posted by Steve Hepfer
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I recently noticed what I think is strange. I typically keep a circuit tester plugged into the wall outlet which is on a GFCI circuit. I do this because while on the inverter to power the residential refrigerator I want to know if the circuit trips while driving so I can pull over and fix it. Recently though I noticed that it shows a "CORRECT CIRCUIT" however when the rooftop A/C is running the tester shows "OPEN NEUTRAL". Has anyone else had a similar situation or perhaps this is normal? TIA and apologies if this is posted incorrectly
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Did you try Bontragers in White Michigan?
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4 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:
I've seen this question asked elsewhere, maybe you? Here are some things for your consideration. Smart TV are not much more than "dumb" ones - not significate for cost to be a driver. But, will you use a smart TV? Do you have capability of highspeed broadband wherever you want to watch TV? Some use WiFi HotSpots to get internet, but some of those limit streaming to SD (Standard Definition) quality. Will you always be able to get good cellular data connections? Do you currently use streaming services? If not, what services do you currently watch? Just OTA (Over The Air - free TV)? Personally, I camp a lot where I don't get OTA or Cellular Service, or at least not great service. I have Dish Network, and all I have to worry about is no trees obstructing my view. I'm a TV guy - I like watching both network (ABC, NBC, FOX, CBS, CW) programming (usually Prime Time) but also like programming from TLC, FNC, Discovery, History, HGTV, etc. I also HATE being tethered to the TV - especially when traveling and there are things to do and people to see, pot lucks & campfires. For me, Dish Network with the ability to Record all my favorite shows and then watch them later is a MUST HAVE. I've relating this, because if you are like me, you don't need streaming or Smart TVs. But, if you don't want a satellite system, and are confident that you will always be connected to a good cellular data signal, then some of the programming I get on Dish you'll get via streaming. Also, if you are only interested in OTA Network programming, and not worried if you miss an episode of NCIS, then you don't need a smart TV. As mentioned above, there are streaming boxes (ROKU, Firestick, etc.) that you can connect to your TV to make it "Smart".
Another consideration is size. To me, you'll want to get the biggest TV you can make fit in the available space. Another think is 4K. I have a 50" 4K TV waiting to be installed in my coach. I got 4K only because it's about all you can get at 50+ inches. But Dish Network has very little programming at 4K, and it takes their best Hopper to receive what little there is. There might be some OTA @ 4K, but not much right now. Most of the 4K is either streaming or BluRay disk. I don't think you would want to pay for routine streaming 4K content via cellular. It gobbles up bandwidth. And, as mentioned above, some HotSpots won't even allow for HD (High Definition) streaming, much less 4K. If you plan to be connected to DSL or Fiber, that is a different story.
On to the usage in a RV question. I don't think there is enough data complied to judge durability bouncing around in a coach. I have replaced many TVs in RVs, but only one because of failure. That one had a history of power supply failures, and was unrelated to it's environment. There are some people who like specific brands - kinda like Ford vs Chevy. Some Smart TVs integrate better with different Smart Phone and HotSpots than others. Especially if you plan on casting or mirroring you phone. But that will be based upon your current cell phone brand.
If you have specific questions, ask away, I'm sure there are many willing to help answer.
Awesome input and lots to consider. Thanks
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Our original 2008 Sharp 32" TV has finally quit working in our 2008 Diplomat. Looking for recommendations on a new 32" set and thoughts on a smart TV or not. We are currently considering a 32" Samsung as a replacement.
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I took the drain tube off but didn't find any blockage. I will keep the dash air off going to our next stop and see if it stays dry. Then run the dash air again the following stop and check it again
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Can anyone explain how to replace the drain line for the front dash ac? I think mine may be plugged causing a leak inside on the floor at the bottom of the return grille. Thx
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3 hours ago, JDCrow said:
You should try Bontragers in White Michigan
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4 hours ago, Bob Keating said:
I am hoping somebody in the community can help.
I have two switches mounted side by side in the bathroom. One operates the lights overhead and over the vanity. The other, I have no idea. It is attached to something, because the lights flicker like a load is being activated; however, I can't find anything that changes when this switch is activated. The owner's manual does not have a full switch call out, so I am stumped. Any suggestions??
Could someone have combined the lights into one switch? On our 2008 Diplomat we have 2 switches side by side an one is for vanity lights and the other for overhead lights
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14 hours ago, Scott 61 said:
My tail light fuses are in the last compartment on the passenger side
Thanks Scott. You nailed it. The fuse wasn't in either of the two boxes in the front roadside compartment. There was indeed a 3rd panel box in the rear passenger side compartment. A quick fuse replacement and no good to go. Thanks to ALL for assisting.
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51 minutes ago, klcdenver said:
Try looking in your owners manual, probably section 9 if the same as mine. I believe they are labeled as marker lights.
I looked at my manual and the "Marker Lights" are fuse F65 which I changed to 10amp fuse and still no tail lights
19 minutes ago, DJR1SR said:I had the same problem, none of the running lights/ Marker lights worked. Headlights, brake and turn signal lights worked fine. The drivers side front compartment has a series of boxes with fuses and relays. My panel was the lower right side. Squeeze the lock down clamps to pull the cover off. Look for the fuse labeled marker lights and check to see if the fuse is good, replace if needed. I had a blown fuse, replaced it and all is well. This is just one man's opinion and I hope this helps.
I have running lights. It's just the tail lights. I replaced the fuse labeled marker lights and still nothing
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Are they marked as TAIL LIGHTS? I have looked there also and found none marked specifically as Tail Lights
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7 hours ago, Chuck B said:
It would help if questions for fuse locations would give the year and model Monaco coach. Chuck B
I forgot to add that it would be nice to post your 1st name and last name 1st initial . It's nice to know who you are. Chuck B
Chuck: I am looking for a tail light fuse location for a 2008 Monaco 36PDQ. Thx
Steve H
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I have a 2008 Monaco Diplomat 36PDQ. I recently discovered that I don't have any tail lights. Can anyone help me locate the correct fuse or relay for the taillights? I have checked the bulbs and the flashers work so I don't think it is a bulb issue and I pulled the bulbs to check the filament which is fine. I have checked all 3 fuse boxes and cannot find any thing marked as "Tail Light". THX
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3 hours ago, Dave Pumphrey said:
I hope I put this under the appropriate heading, please move if better in a different one.
Anyone have a Cricket cart?
Thinking the SX-3 would be the ticket, it will fit in our Scion Xb toad.
Looks like they have been around 14 years or so.
I know carts are not allowed in some parks, & some charge a fee to bring your own.
Most require Liability Insurance, but my agent says only about $50 a year, little more for full coverage.
Thoughts?
Dave P
Glen Burnie, MD
2000 38' Dynasty
2005 Scion Toad.
We have a Cricket that fits in our Honda CR-V. We have only had an issue using it once at a Jellystone. We insure ours for Liability and Theft
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I had the same issue. Check to see if you have the Sheppard steering box. If so I recommend changing it out to the TRW. I also put a Watts link on the front and cross bars on the rear. Made massive improvement
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3 hours ago, CjnCook said:
I recently acquired a fantastic 2008 Diplomat 40 PDQ with the Cummins 400HP and Allison Transmission. I am wanting to create a spreadsheet with all of the lubrication points, types, quantities and dates for easy reference. I also want to include filters, belts, and any information I might find myself searching for. Has anyone created one they might share, preferably excel? I'm building a maintenance planner with all of the information and diagrams I need in one place rather than searching the various manuals and bulletins. I will give my service provider a checklist to make sure everything is covered and signed off on.
Jeff Poche
2008 Diplomat 40PDQ
2019 Jeep Cherokee Limited in tow
Provide your email address and I'll forward the one I did on Excel
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We have a Sleep Number Mattress and are using an Inverter/Charger that is MSW. We have had no trouble with the controls not working properly in the 12 years we have had the coach. Keep in mind that most people only need to adjust their bed once for the right UNLESS as you mentioned you are traveling in higher altitudes and then have to make the adjustment. We experienced that phenomenon recently going out west and still had no troubles with the controls. Hope this helps
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Great video. What is normally the life cycle of the transmission fluid before needing to change it?
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35 minutes ago, Gerald H said:
Separate your batteries and check each one, sounds like a bad cell in one
All of the cells check out with Specific Gravity ranging from 1.27 (fair) to 1.31 (good)
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I recently experienced a problem with the house batteries holding a charge. When we left the campsite and turned the inverter on to keep the refrigerator running I got a "Low Battery" message on the display panel. The inverter would not stay on. After driving for about an hour I thought that the alternator would have put a charge on the house batteries but that didn't work. I have checked all cells for Specific Gravity and they check out in a range from 1.27 to 1.31 (Fair to Good). I checked them after unplugging the coach and letting the batteries rest for about 45 minutes. The coach has been plugged in to shore power for a few days and reads back and forth between Absorb Charging and Full Charge. When I unplug the coach however from shore power I again get the display message "Low Battery". While plugged in the voltage reads around 14.2 volts and when I unplug the coach I am getting around 9.8 volts. I am wondering if the batteries are failing or if it is something else? Any help is appreciated so I don't buy 4 new batteries only to experience the same problem. Thanks
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1 hour ago, Texomaman73 said:
I have had my coach for a month or so and I am in the process of putting together a tow system for my toad. I am going with the Blue Ox base plate and the service center said I could get by with the 6500 lb Blue Ox tow bar, but it is just $200 more to go with the 10000lb bar and I am leaning on the heavy duty bar.
My real concern is that even though I have air brakes on my coach I don't really like the idea of cutting into it to supply air to my toad and the Air Force 1 brake system, and I have been thinking about the Brake Buddy Stealth system that is a proportional system but won't have to modify my air system on the motorhome for the install.
What are your thoughts pro and con of both systems and should I really be worried about cutting into my airlines on the coach.
I have until tomorrow to decide which system to go with.
Thanks for any advice.
Jeff
I have had both and prefer the Air Force 1 braking system
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In our 2008 Diplomat it is behind the cover on the main distribution panel located in the bedroom closet. I just had to replace ours after our last camping trip.
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Can you hear the pump running and just don't have water? Maybe the pump lost it's prime?
Entryway Step Light
in General Motorhome Discussion
Posted
On our 2008 Diplomat they just pop out from a holder. I have found replacements at Batteries / Bulbs Plus stores