Just Jim

I thought it was just me...  I've loved the performance of my coach.  It just seems effortless running down the road.  Of course I had half the horsepower but a third less length in my old coach.  I drove several Dynasty and Imperial coaches with the 400 horsepower engine before buying the Executive.  They seemed adequate, but not sure I could go back now. 

Back to the original question... If you really want to find the frame then you could invest in this.  It is a pretty cool device to have for seeing into walls. 

https://www.flir.com/products/flir-one-gen-3/?vertical=condition monitoring&segment=solutions

On 5/1/2024 at 4:27 PM, wamcneil said:

A 'little' overkill??? Overkill, btw is my 2nd favorite kind of kill.

Take a look at what's holding the ladder to the fiberglass skin on the outside of the coach...

Somehow that ladder will safely support a big ol' RVer that eats a lot of fried food. 

The solar array just barely needs to be held down. Especially if it's got 50lb of uni-strut underneath it. 

Something like this rooftop deck? Sure... 3/8 bolts in the metal structure would be good:

As a NASCAR infield camper guy... I need one of those decks.

Thanks Gerry,

The resisters were built into the new housing/LEDs that I bought... nothing to install or wire up other than mounting them somewhere.  I also had a suggestion of using a steel zip tie to mount them.  The lights are all in one, parking lights, turn signal and brake.  The only one not included is the back up light and its a different socket.  So, that is why I was wondering about what actually causes the heat to be generated as just the parking lights didn't do anything.  The brakes and turn signals work fine, but can't see them causing a lot of heat unless you were stuck in traffic and on the brakes a lot.

I know this is an older thread, but I'm curious about the resistors.  I installed LED tail light fixtures and they came wired with 100w resistors.  I turned on the parking lights for about 30 minutes and they stayed cool.  I thought about screwing them to the fiberglass, but had seen before that they can get hot, so for now I zip tied them to a steel frame section.  What does it take for them to get hot?  Leave them on for hours?  Stop and go traffic (constantly applied brakes)?  I am thinking of using a metal hose clamp and attaching them to the steel frame.  Does that sound like a solution?

I tried calling Holley to find out about the low fuel light and gauge compatibility, but apparently no one gets technical on the weekends.  You can order parts on Saturday, but no tech support. 

I have asked this question in the past and was told that they need to be supported.  I had similar thoughts as you regarding lifting the tag.

Thanks Tom,  I did get in there yesterday and did the electrical checks.  It seems like all the voltages are correct going to the terminals.  However, I think my coach had undercoating applied and perhaps was even painted... never the less... seeing the serial or model number is not in the cards.  I have seen discussions of taking off the sending wire and checking it to determine the signal for the gauge?  Holley does have tech support open today from 8 - 2 central time... so I think I'll call them and see if they have any ideas for a 20 plus year old coach. 

I am wondering if anyone has tried the Holley Floatless Easy Level sender instead of the Centroid sender?  I think that the fuel gauge is "analog"???  There is a note on some pages that say the Holley will not work with analog gauges, however the Holley page says that it was designed to work with "virtually any gauge on the market today".  So, I'm just curious if anyone has tried this sender?  Also, it appears that there are only 3 wires so I would lose the "alarm" light, however since my current gauge reads past full all the time... the light never comes on anyway.  Is it a possibility to change the gauge to a newer style... assuming I can find one the correct size/style?

Thanks in advance.

Jim

One more thing.  Since you did not seem to know about the rear start switch... turn the key up front to the run position.  Then go back to the rear and rock it to "rear", then hit start.  Just wanted to make sure you were doing it correctly.  Pardon if you already knew that. 

Do you know if your boost switch works?  Might try it.  Also does the gen start?  Another thing to try is use the switch in the back.  See if it starts from the rear. 

Right across the top of the page

Look under downloads

Sorry, I did not read your message clearly.  I have not seen a light in that area on an Executive.  Is it painted to match or look like original equipment?  I suspect it is wired in by a prior owner.  I have added a string of LED lights under my awning that are controlled by remote.  You might check inside the basement for a switch, or inside the cabinets on the inside near where the light is located.  Last thing perhaps it is wired into the docking lights.  I have recently found a fox and hound toner to be very helpful in tracking down wiring and now consider that an essential tool to have for an RV.

Should be on the front  passenger side  seat armrest group of switches.

Thanks Myron, that one is about 4 inches to long.  There is an indentation on the back of my coach for the light to fit into... have not found one yet that will fit.

I have looked on Amazon and can't find one that is the correct size.  Most are to long.  I may just keep what I have.  It works.

The lens says SAE U-93, but I can't find anything that looks like it.  Anyone have a good source for a replacement?  I wired up the front dash switch for the ML ACR and when finished noticed the tail lights on the passenger side did not work.  Trial and error and figured out that a ground was faulty.  I used spare wires that had previously been used for a brake controller, so I suspect somewhere there is an issue that I didn't have time to run down.  I just supplied another good ground and the lights all work again.  However, I found during testing that most of the connections are in really bad shape and the bulb sockets are loose, etc.  So... long story short... I'm replacing the brake light housing with new LEDs.  I am hoping they are an easy change out, but I'm not holding my breath.  Anyway, I think I should replace the center brake light as well just for aesthetics. 

Grampy... I had that exact same system and replaced the isolation box, boost solenoid and maintainer with the Blue Sea ML ACR.  Before replacing old tech parts you might want to consider that option.  Its not a bad upgrade and there are lots of threads on here of how to complete.  I just finished running the switch up to the dash this weekend and can save you a bunch of time on that if you need it.

Jim

Continuing to have issues.  I ran a wire from the orange wire in the rear to the orange wire on the boost switch and have no continuity.  I tried it with the ignition off and on.  Shouldn't that wire have continuity either way?  Still no luck in finding the spare wires in the back.  I did do a search for the wiring diagram for the brake controller and one of the wires has to tie directly to the 7 way trailer plug... but have not found that connection either.  I'm going to crawl back under the rear and give it another try at finding the spare wires.  I have an RF sounder, but it does not seem to work or I'm not working it correctly.  I think it gets to much interference from all the wires in close proximity.  I may see if I can find a different type of sounder.

Edit... on my coach the wire going to the big solenoid is orange and the schematic shows the orange wire running from the back up to the front boost switch.  I was hoping of using this as one of the wires that I need to wire in the BS remote switch up front... but again there is no continuity on that orange wire in the rear and the orange wire on the front boost switch.  So, there must be a break in that line somewhere? 

Making baby steps of progress.  I have found spare wires in the front.  Two red, two black and one smaller green.  The prior owner had wired in a brake controller and has used two of the wires... I was looking in the FRB and noticed a piece of label laying in the bottom... I picked it up and it is torn... but what is left spells  PARE.  One of the wires that the prior owner used also has a piece of the same color tape and it dawned on me... SPARE.  So, I have spare wires.  Yee Haw.  I have searched high and low in the back and cannot find the other end.  So, any suggestions on where they might have hidden those spare wires in the back? 

Also, anyone have any knowledge of how you wire up a brake controller?  Again, the prior owner tied into two of the spares... I assume those wires would be needed in the back to connect to a trailer in order for the controller to work... I checked the original trailer plug... nothing new added to it.  Any suggestions of where a controller would need to be wired up in the back?  I think I'm close.  I only need one wire to connect the switch for the Blue Sea switch. 

So, I poked my head under the coach this afternoon.  I found a big bundle of zip tied wires in front of the rear axle on the passenger side and thought I'd found the spares.  All of them went to air system components...  Couldn't find any other bundle of wires there.  Behind the front axle I found what I think is conduit.  Its about an inch diameter with a red cap?  I could not locate the other end of a conduit in the back, but the holes are all sprayed with some kind of insulating foam, so the conduit might be covered over by that.  I also don't see any obvious bundle of wire in the front axle area either.  I'll look around the generator and under the dash.  I'm at least encouraged to find what I think is the conduit.  Pulling wires through it should be pretty easy... at least that is what I'm telling myself.

Jim

I wondered about isolating the genset and the chassis engine, but I thought those instructions were more for marine applications that have two or more engines that propel the boat.  Is there a benefit to isolating the chassis and genset?

Frank had said that same thing Ivan,  I'm going to check and see if they are there, before running new wires.  If they are there...  I've got 7 50ft rolls of wire that I'm not going to need.  LOL.  I think he also said that there is a conduit?  I've also got the FASS install to do and may need some additional fuel lines run.  The next nice day that I have free to devote, I'm going to jack up the coach again and do the air dryer and check for the spare wires or run the new ones.  Thanks for the great help as usual!!!

This a project that I'm planning on doing soon.  I have the switch wired up in the back and have waited for better weather to run wires from the front to the back.  The instructions below for cross connect/isolate battery banks indicate the red wire from the ML ACR harness goes to position 2 on the included switch.  The yellow goes to position 7 for the LEDs.  Power from the house side goes to position 8 and position 1 and 3 go to ground.  Does that look correct???

It appears I only need one wire from the back run up to the front (for Yellow LED) as there is an existing wire that I can use for the remote red.  Everything else can be sourced from the front?  I'm going to run several wires from the back up to the front for any future projects, so if you think the power should be sourced from the rear run box would be easy enough?  I would appreciate another set of eyes on this.  Thanks in advance.  Jim

Frank,  I've looked at the wiring diagrams and don't see any mention of spare wires or extra conduit?  I've purchased wire and was just fixing to run some extras, so your comment is very timely.  I've looked but have not found any.  I have two rear run boxes; one on each side.  There is so much wiring that it could be right in front of me.  Any idea what it would look like and a more specific place to check?  I've looked under the dash and don't see any spare wire.  Again, any specific location to look and what to look for?

Jim

That is long enough for it to get warm.  Check the coolant and oil level.  Might want to make sure the air filter is not restricted as well.