Just Jim

Thanks Scotty and the other 3 guys as well.  I appreciate your work on this site.

no experience with the see vision system, but I've seen it listed in the brochures.  I think it allows you to see around the outside of the RV while parked.  The flip down entertainment center should be on the curb side as either a panel on the outside that opens to access the TV or the TV is tucked inside one of the basement storage locations.  Check to make sure you have a solar panel on the roof.  There should be a solar indicator panel that shows the battery state of charge and the amps coming from the solar panel.  Its in the bedroom right above the washer/dryer on my coach.  It is not a large panel, maybe 3 x 4 inches.

Congrats on your purchase.  Wishing you lots of happy miles.

Jim

Randy,  In a word... you have skills.  I had an idea it was transfer switch related, but I'm a plug and play kind of guy.  Congrats on getting it sorted out.

by "kill power to the coach" do you mean engaging the battery disconnects?  I don't know for sure, but I would think that would disconnect the solar as well.  Flipping the "salesman" switch up in the front would leave the solar connected.

Have you tried checking at the house batteries to see if current is actually going to them while plugged in?  "inverting" is converting 12 v to 110 v, so that should not be displayed while plugged in as that is an indication you are just running on battery.  Might check the transfer switch.  Generally the genset is primary even when plugged in to shore power, so the batteries will not charge from shore while the genset is running.... but should switch (transfer) when the genset is shut down.  Its possible that 20 amp circuit is not enough to charge the batteries, but I've never had that problem.  Someone here will be able to help more.

On 10/24/2023 at 11:50 AM, 96 EVO said:

If it's not on the bottom of one of your fuel filters, someone has installed the wrong filter.

Some water separating filters use a clear plastic bowl on the bottom, to make it easy to see if there is water in there.

{edit} I see Jim W states in his post that his '95 model had a stand alone water separator box. I've never seen one.

The picture above is what my fuel filter/water separator looked like.  It had an electric pump that when you pushed the button for 'air' it would prime the air out of the line... for water it would drain it from the bottom of the filter.  It was manufactured by Wynn.

Congrats!!!  I purchased mine in April of this year and have spent a fair amount of time upgrading and learning about it.  I replaced all the interior puck lights with LEDs..... all 52 of them!!!  I think those halogen bulbs could have been an alternate heat source.  LOL.  I replaced the slide toppers, the battery isolator, charger, etc with the ACR relay, replaced the remote door locks and outside keypad, under cabinet kick lights, upgraded the surround sound/TV... and I'm sure I'm forgetting many things.  I am missing the lower part of my rear ladder... not sure if yours is the same, but I'd love to find one. 

I still have several things to do and was hoping to work on them with the cooler weather coming in, but have been slowed by a little heart attack.... two stents and two more to go and hopefully I'll be better than new.  I knew I was slowing down and not tolerating the heat very well... just thought I'm getting old... come to find out the plumbing was clogged, so I'm hoping I'm not really as old as I felt.  HaHa.  I feel much better with the two they put in already, but have been taking it easy since I still have 80% blockage in another vessel.   Congrats again and wishing you happy travels!!! 

Jim

On my 95 it was on the right side as you look at the engine.  It was near the fuel lines/filters.  A 2x2 inch box with a couple of buttons and lights.  Yours may be missing as it was not difficult to find.

you mean you don't routinely look through her purse?  Oh my... they certainly keep life interesting.

Ben, I think the wheels have about come off this thread.  I've gotten most of the info I was originally seeking.  In my particular case, it is a little of both.  I park my RV in my driveway at home and have 50 amp service for it.  However, no building for it to be enclosed in... hopefully soon to have that.  So, again, for me it is storage and usage during the winter months.... and therefore not wanting to "winterize" it with solution in the water pipes.  The winters here are not brutal... we have several nights when it will get below 32, but during the day the temps may be 45 or 50... so not really much chance of a hard freeze.  So, my questions were mainly for the periods when it gets down to 10 at night and maybe up to 32 for a high.  I'm planning on getting the temp sensors to put inside the basement and the coach as well that I can check on my phone.  I'll also watch the weather closely and turn on more heat either electric or diesel as is needed.  I have run at least one of the AC units all summer to keep the interior from getting above 80 so I don't think keeping the heat on is going to bankrupt me.  I do appreciate all the help on this... hopefully it has been beneficial to others as well.

Jim

photos of the knob I found.  It just has a bare copper wire going over to the next compartment.  I can't see where it goes.  Also, found a small box with a fan that looks like it may be part of the aqua hot heating as it has copper tubing running into it.  Have not found anything that looks like an electric heater.  It should be in or near the water tanks and manabloc, correct?  I like the idea of putting temperature sensors in the coach that sync up with my phone so I can monitor the temps. 

Thanks so very much all you guys!  I checked and found a knob in the water pump bay that says max 50 degrees.  So that will provide heat to the entire basement area or does it just warm the holding tanks or something else?  I'll look for some bolts on the ceiling panel.  So, not winterizing will pretty much require a fairly high level of heat to be left inside and more than likely some type of additional heat in the basement?

New to me 2003 Executive.  It was a little chilly this morning so I thought it would be a good time to check out the heat on this coach.  It has Aqua hot, Heat pump on the AC and baseboard heaters.  All three checked out although I did have to hit a reset button on one of the baseboard heaters.  So, my question is regarding freezing pipes over the winter.  I have never "winterized" my old coach as I just opened the drain and opened the facets to let the water drain out.  I am wondering if I can do that with this coach?  I would like to avoid putting chemicals in the lines as I plan to use it some during the winter.  I don't mind leaving some heat on inside the coach, but it will be parked outside so really more concerned about the basement areas.  Also, would prefer electric heat and not the diesel furnace/boiler.  Anything to avoid with leaving the baseboard heaters on with the thermostats turned down?  Is anyone familiar with if the coach has basement heating or ducts that would protect the pipes?

 Last question for now... the rear AC has a door that I can open but there is no filter in there.  I assume it should have a filter there?  The front of the coach has the decorative ceiling with two AC units.  Where would the filters be for these units?  The ceiling does not appear to have any access.  Would they be outside up on the roof? 

Thanks as always.

Jim

This seems like more than one issue.  If it starts but then dies, would not be starter related.  Maybe air in the fuel line?  Did they change the fuel filter during the lube at Speedco?  If you have it, use the Wynn air/water to purge the line.  Also, on that engine the fuel shutoff solenoid can give that type of problem.  Check to make sure the bolts on the fuel shutoff solenoid have not loosened (ask me how I know about this).  Also, if you have to hold the throttle down, the spring on the solenoid may have gotten weak.   Do check the battery, electrical as others have suggested, but again I think you have more than one issue. 

I find myself biting my tongue here.  This appears to be a case of someone throwing a live grenade into a room and then sitting back to watch the reaction.  I'm going to ignore any additional responses to this thread as it certainly does not look to be going in any constructive direction from the get go.  JD I appreciate your posts and that you are happy.  Please keep it up!

I do appreciate the moderators taking their time to run this forum.  It is a truly valuable resource. 

one of my favorite bumper stickers I saw back in the 80s-90s was... If Harley-Davidson made an airplane... would you fly on it?

That box looks sketchy to me as there are signs of arching in there.  As Dr4 said... put one test lead on the white wire terminals and then check each of the other large wires. 

Only owned it since April.   No major suspension changes.  Replaced the isolater and, solenoid and battery maintainer.  A few other upgrades.  

My current coach has the 500 hp cummins and I like it so much better.  I have it on cruise at 65 and it doesn't drop speed at all on long hills.  6.5 MPG.  The executives and signatures would have at least that engine and you see some that are 40 feet, but they are pretty rare.  One of the things I'm not a huge fan of is the basement doors under the slide.  I think in later years they made them side hinged instead of top hinged.  They are a  pain to get into when you are an old man.  My original plan was to stay at 40 or under, but there just were not many to choose from and of course they need to be in good condition, the right color scheme, etc.  I still watch the ads for that special, dream coach to come along, but I'm really loving this coach.  Such a nice drive with the tag axle and good sized engine.

I'm having some issues with my RVA hydraulic jacks.  The jacks work intermittently.  I can press a button and hear a sound, but not the usual high pitched pump sound.  If I hold the switch for a couple seconds.... sometimes the sound changes and the jack starts to move.  All three jacks work sometimes and don't work sometimes.  Anyone have an idea if there is a central control or something that would cause intermittent operation?  I did stick the tank and the fluid level seems to good.  There is no usual bong sound.  Suggestions anyone?

Ok... I got out there this morning and confirmed that under the dash is a 6 pin and it looks like only 4 of the pins are being used.  There is also a ABS and Transmission plug under there.

I currently have the Trip Tek ® 3100-5 Message Center, which is very basic and for some reason does not show the odometer reading that I think is supposed to be displayed???  Any suggestions on that would be appreciated.  I've read all the manuals and instructions on it to no avail. 

Anyway, looking at changing to some other monitoring system... most likely BlueFire as Silverleaf is no longer available.

Question:  Does my 03 Executive have a j1708 or a J1939 under the dash?  I took a quick look yesterday, not having read the thread yet and I seem to remember something looking like 9 pins, but they may not all be used? 

Question 2: Assuming it is the j1708 (6 pin) and I have the 3 wire cable under the arm rest... When combining these (as Scotty has done) I assume that the j1708 under the dash is eliminated?  What is the j1708 used for normally?  Do I need it?

Question 3:  If there is a J1939 is in the engine bay or front run box... can't the BlueFire be plugged in there?  Is the bluetooth signal not strong enough for that distance?

Sorry if these are stupid questions.  Electrical has never been my strong suit so I would prefer to just plug into something that is already existing rather than re-wiring a plug.  As Dirty Harry says.... "a man's got to know his limitations".

Jim

Thanks everyone.  It is the ISM and it looks like 35-40 is about right.  Still fussing with the fuel gauge, so just wanting to make sure the others are working.

I have the 500 hp Cummings engine and while driving over the weekend I noticed the oil pressure was reading between 30 and 40.  Is that a normal operating pressure?