Just Jim

I mis-spoke Jet.  The switch turns on the circulation pump like you described.  My intention was to indicate that the "block heater" switch did not energize the electric block heater as far as I know.  I have not traveled with the aquahot or block heater switch on.   I think the aqua hot has to be turned on and then if the block heater switch is also on... then the system would use heat from the engine to generate hot water.  At least that is my understanding of how it works.

After reading EVO's post... I don't think I have any idea how this works.  LOL.  I'm going to check the manual. 

I have used the block heater switch this winter, but it just opens the circulation line from the aquahot to the engine to warm the engine.  This cord has been unplugged, so I'm not sure how it would operate unless you just simply plug it in to turn it on.  I will test the outlet though.  It used to have a battery maintainer plugged in there, but I've removed that plus the isolation block, etc and put in the ACR switch.  Anyway, it just seemed redundant to have the electric block heater as well as the aquahot, but Monaco did strange things sometimes.

Good info there.  I had the rear wheel seals leak on my old coach and replaced them as well as the brakes since they had leaked all over.  I don't see any sign of that on this coach, but have not done a through inspection in the back yet.  I am hoping to get it jacked up and supported well this weekend and tackle the trans and hydraulic fluid.  I'll do a good check of things while the transmission drains.  I've heard they will train for hours, so should have plenty of time.

I pulled the transmission dip stick just to look at the fluid... somewhat yellow in color?  Right beside the trans dip stick was a 110 v cord attached to the engine.  Is that a block heater?  I knew it has an engine pre-heat from the aqua hot, but not an electric one.  The cord was just hanging down into the engine... right above the exhaust.  I'm going to zip tie it up and out of the way.

2 hours ago, Tom Wallis said:

You might try replacing the pinion seal but I would not recommend trying anything with the pinion bearing unless you detect a problem with it. That is a much more complicated job and not recommended for the inexperienced.

Thanks Tom, My reference to the bearing replacement was related to shop cost not me doing it.  If I'm paying to have the U joints, pinion seal replaced... I'm just wondering if having the bearing replaced adds significant time/cost to the repair?  If its insignificant then is it prudent to just change it while everything is apart?

Thanks for all the great info.  I'm thinking at this point that I'm going to check with my shop and see if he will do it.  I like the idea of replacing the U-joints as well... makes no sense to take it apart and not put back new and I think the yoke nut is a one time use item??? 

How would I find part numbers for the U-joints? 

It does not look like replacing the pinion seal is a big deal (for the right person); would you say the same if also replacing the bearing?  Again, seems to make sense to do it if you have it apart, as long as that does not add a bunch of hours of labor, etc.

Jim

I noticed that as well Jim.  I have greased the front, (and they were not bad) but have not gotten to the rear yet.  Once I actually get under there and get dirty, I'll check it for play and grease it, check the vent and check the oil level.  Then can make a decision on how to proceed.  I do have a shop that I've used before that does good work.  I wouldn't mind doing it myself, except I have a drip scheduled and not sure I'll have time to do and/or if the weather will continue to cooperate.  Thanks for the insight everyone. 

Pictures of the Diff for your viewing pleasure.  There is some moisture around the vent tube, but did not try to check it or anything else.  Just took some quick pictures.  I found in my literature that the diff and axle are Dana with a model on the differential of 21060S

No Jet, that was great info.  Thanks for taking the time to post it.  I've also seen people discuss some type of "stop leak" if everything else checks out.  I've used that before on an old car.  Not sure about on something like this.

I did not take a picture at that time.  Did not have my phone with me.  It appeared to be leaking around where the drive shaft connected.  I'll get pictures and take a better look.

One thing I did find when I was under the coach today is a leak at the differential.  I was just doing a quick look around and noticed it.  Anyone have any idea how big a job it is to replace a seal?  I'll check the fluid level before I move the coach again but curious if this is a "big" repair or not.  90 weight oil from what I recall off the top of my head?

Thanks guys, I got it open and found the transmission dipstick.  I never would have used that much force on that hatch without some reassurance from you all!!!  d*** thing took three wood chisels hammered around the edges for it to finally open.  Not sure why they even put latches on there.  LOL  Hopefully, next week I can get the hydraulic fluid and transmission fluid changed out.  Sure wears on a old fat man to climb under and around that thing but I enjoy doing it.

So, I've tried to open this hatch, but it is not budging.  Other than popping the little latch up, anything else other than brute force needed?

Just a curious question... I had a sticker on the battery door of my previous coach that indicated that lots of precaution needed to be taken before welding on the frame in order to prevent damage to the transmission electronics.  Is that something that still applies?  It seems like the current would mostly flow from the ground to the weld site???  I suppose some current could go elsewhere, but seems pretty unlikely.  Again, not planning on doing any welding, but just curious.

Thanks Jet,  I'll try and get those hatches open tomorrow.  I've tried to open them in the past just out of curiosity, so didn't force them.  They really seem to be stuck or I'm not releasing them properly.  Going to look from inside the engine bay and see if I can figure out how they work, but if anyone has any info on opening them I would greatly appreciate it. 

I do have a pump that I was going to use.  I hope I can feed it out the back as I don't want to string 10 gallons of fluid through the coach.  I can't imagine that is going to go without at least a little spill.

So, the weather was nice today, so I got started on my maintenance and got about 25% of it done.  As I was making my plan for tomorrow, I did a quick look at the transmission.  The two round filters and the drain plug are pretty obvious, however how do you put the fluid back in????  I don't see a dipstick or a filler neck anywhere.  I am hoping that this is not one that you have to pump the fluid into...  Anyone with knowledge of the Cummins 500 ISM and Allison 4000 trans let me know how this is done please.  Thanks everyone.

Mine has done this as well from time to time.  Mine corrects when I start it up and move it.  I'll be watching for responses. 

So... this may be straying off topic a little, but still is in regard to doing maintenance.  I had seen some posts regarding building wood ramps in order to have more area under the coach.  If I go that route, should I build ramps that support the tag axle?  I also assume I would need to have the ramp under both of the duel rear tires?  That is going to be a rather large heavy, wooden structure!!!  So, if the answer to both of those is yes... then perhaps putting a metal or wood post in between the frame where the air bags are located might be an option?  I've also seen some info on jacking up the rear and putting bracing under the area where the trailer hitch is located, but not on the hitch itself.  Thoughts?   Last question... I have used the air bags and the hydraulic level system to raise the coach in order to see if braces in the frame could be accomplished and trying to measure the distance that a brace would need to be.  I started the coach and the ABS light is on... and when I push the brake pedal the Tag ABS light comes on then goes out when I release the brake.  I have not driven it.  I'm just curious if raising the coach up could cause some harm to the ABS or does it just need to be driven?  Thanks as always.

Thanks Benjamin... this is a new to me 20 year old coach with very little knowledge of prior service work.  I'm basically wanting to establish a baseline for the maintenance going forward.  I will test the coolant, but that is one of the filters I think gets overlooked fairly often... kind of like the air brakes filter. 

Yes, I have a air driven fluid pump that I use on some of my other vehicles.  I have not found much online info... is there any concern for air in the lines, etc.  Just drain the tank and remove/replace the filter?

4 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Yeah, when I said rear of the filter, I automatically meant rear of the engine... The filter number should depend on type of coolant and coolant test if applicable.

As far as the hydraulic filter, I used Wix version of the same and had to freeze the gasket to make it fit. Hopefully your filter is higher than the reservoir if you are not replacing the fluid at the same time.

No such luck on the filter being higher than the reservoir... it is significantly lower.  So, seems like I'm changing the hydraulic fluid as well as the filter?  I've never done that before.  I guess I'll do a search of the YouTube to see if I can find any tutorials.

Thanks Ivan, I found the oil filter, but did not look much further than to just take a quick picture of the part number so I could order one.  So, the coolant filter is accessible from underneath and I assume the coolant cut off is as well.   

Was a really nice day today so I got out and did a little more looking and inspection of my coach.  I found a filter that indicates its a hydraulic filter with part number P550388.  I have never replaced a hydraulic filter.  Anyone have some basic instructions or things to look out for?  Second question... since I only had the coach raised with the leveling jacks and no supports I did not spend more than a minute under there but could not locate the air dryer.  Anyone know where that is located on a 03 Executive?  3rd question, I also have not located the coolant filter... I assume it is somewhere on the engine?   Which leads to the final question (at least for now), the coach has some access panels inside the coach on the floor of the closet.  They have what looks like a push button and a ring like handle.  I've gotten the button pushed, but have not gotten them to open.  Is there a "trick" to it like twisting or turning the ring or are they just stuck because they have not been opened in forever?  If I could get them open I think I could find the coolant filter.  Thanks in advance for any help.  Jim

Nice looking building Jim.  That is about what I'm wanting too.  With the walls that tall I figure I can add "lean to" sides for additional space.  Thanks for sharing.

Wow... some really nice shops/garages on this forum.  Much envy from one that still has to park (and work on it outdoors).  I do appreciate the many great suggestions and ideas.  Several things I had not considered and will certainly add to my eventual building.  However, my biggest hurdle is finding the land to build on... If it is decent at all (defined as does not require a mountain goat to be tied on it to keep it from falling down the hill) and priced reasonably, then it is sold in less than 24 hours.  I had that happen last week... listed in the afternoon... I went and walked it the next day and before I could make a full priced offer... was sold!!!  I will keep looking... but keep the suggestions and ideas coming. 

One thought I've had is that some of the land I've seen is 1500 feet or more away from the municipal water lines...  Some people have wells, but after exploring that a little, the drillers are at least 6 months behind.  Anyone have any thoughts on rain catchment systems out there?  We get lots of rain in my area... and I like the idea of "free" water.  LOL.