Converterjoe

Jim C - I don't see any mention of Multiplex in the manual. I'll Google it.

Thanks, Harvey, but for this project I'm replacing the halogen bulbs in the overhead puck lights in the living areas, not the headlights, although a headlight upgrade is also on the list.

I'm upgrading my 2002 Signature's G-4 halogen lights to LED. Purchased dimmer switches that are LED compatible to replace the originals. The new dimmer switches have 12V in (+ and -) and Out to Lights (+ and -). However, the existing dimmer switch has only 3 connections. In (+); Ground (1); and Lights. I'm assuming that the single common ground is fine. Here is what I don't understand: With the dimmer switch in the off position, using a multi-meter with the positive lead to "In" and the negative lead to the common "Ground" it registers 12v as expected. With the positive lead to "Lights" and the negative lead to the common "Ground" it also registers 12v. Why is the output hot when the switch is in the off position??? It operates the halogens as expected. What am I missing? Thanks in advance for any help. UPDATE: For clarification, I'm adding pictures of the switches I'm attempting to swap. I'm clueless how to proceed. The original switch has 2 wires each on the GND and +12V lugs.

I have the same problem, only mine will leak down in a matter of hours. We'd wake up in the morning and be left nose down every time. I've resolved it by tapping into the air system through the port on the bottom of my air tank. I use quick-connect fittings and an air hose to a pancake compressor that I bring with me everywhere I go. I keep it in the bay just behind the fuel/propane bay and the noise when it runs is quite minimal inside the coach. So long as you put your leveling system in sleep mode properly (leveling with ignition on) it will keep your coach level for as long as the compressor has power. You can level the coach with the ignition off, however, it won't automatically level itself as air bleeds down. I doubt it's you ride-height valves unless the coach refuses to level when in travel mode.

Thanks, Ray - I’ll check with the folks in Colorado. My AH system is inboard dead center. These days I can’t lay in the cramped basement long enough to service it myself. Too bad it can’t be on a generator slide, eh?

Ray - my AquaHot is also down and since I'm going to Colorado where there's a better than even chance we'll be experiencing some frigid weather I'd like to have as many heat sources as possible lol. On the other hand, I've got several electric portable heaters so I guess that's an option that won't cost me anything.

The bad unit is the front which is on a thermostat by itself. The center and bedroom are together on one thermostat. I agree 100% about replacing all three, however, I've just had to buy all new tires, done a brake job including rotors, and am currently replacing all my airbags due to one of them blowing on me 100 miles from home. At $15K and counting already this year in repairs it's going to be difficult for awhile to scrape together the money to replace one, never mind three AC units. I'll just have to cross my fingers and hope for the best on the other two. By hook or by crook that bus is taking me to Colorado next month to see my daughter! Thanx, everyone!

I've got 3 ac's on the roof of my 2002 Signature and the front one has quit. Since these are original to the coach I figured I would replace rather than repair. Any idea if the GE will work as a replacement? Price seems reasonable.

This particular Freightliner dealer has as many coaches in the service line as trucks (Dixie RV is only a block away). As I was leaving, the coach wouldn't level itself so they sent an experienced tech out to help me. This tech was incensed that they had not called him onto my job (he found the hidden hardware right away). I got the coach level manually in camping mode, it then stayed level in travel mode and I was able to get it the 100 miles to home without an issue. The local shop who did my brake job is going to finish the airbag job but I will definitely be bringing my coach to Josam for a thorough inspection the next time I'm in Orlando.

I guess it's possible that I over-reacted to one bag blowing out but all the bags have visible cracking. 19 year old coach with only 130K on the speedometer so my worry is that rather than damage from use, the rubber may have atrophied from all the time this coach spent parked. This was a very unwelcome expense but the idea of blowing a bag in the winter in Colorado makes me shiver (literally lol) and changing the bags on this bus is much more difficult than changing them out on a tractor or trailer that's completely open underneath. Probably overkill but.....

Thanks everyone! I'm waiting on a call back from Barry @ Josam now.

Getting frustrated with the lack of knowledge of this coach by service departments. I blew an airbag on the drive axle about 100 miles from home. Not too big a deal...yet. Capped off that airline and was able to limp the 20 miles to the Freightliner dealer on the tag. Sourced and purchased all 8 bags (tag axle lift bags were new). After a week the dealer emailed me saying they were able to replace the busted bag and its mate but said the hardware to change the rest of the bags was hidden in the chassis and they couldn't do the job. He also said they don't have the software to set the ride height. This Roadmaster chassis was a partnership with Freightliner so I had assumed that they would be the best folks to do this job. Does anyone know who might be able to handle it anywhere in Alabama or central to north Florida? I don't trust the remaining bags.

Good to know - I have an EZ pass for my coach and another for my toad. I wonder if it will charge for 2 extra axles on the coach's transponder and then charge again because of the toad's transponder?

That's the one I bought. Will hopefully install today. Thanx!

Thanks everybody! It turns out that I had a bad switch. I had noticed that the connectors were looking a bit charred so I just replaced all three switches that control the kitchen lighting and that fixed the problem. I'm further along into the rope replacement now and for some reason Monaco used both 12v ropes and 120v ropes even though all are on 12v circuits. Some of the ropes are stamped with the same part number as in the owner's manual (120v) while others (the ones that were stapled in place) are 12v ropes. So if anyone ever asks if 120v incandescent ropes will work on 12vdc, the answer is yes. Probably not good for them but they worked. The new ropes look amazing by the way. Now I just have to figure out how to get to the ropes in the center of the overhead air conditioning cover. The outer ring wasn't too bad but the inner ring has me stumped.

Replacing the rope lights in my 2002 Monaco. Got the outer panel done but can’t figure out how to get the center lights around the mirror down. Does anyone else know? Thanks!

Hi Ivan - I pulled the switch panel that has a rocker for the halogens and the ropes right beside each other. When I saw a jumper wire between the two switches (a common hot I assume, and the halogen is a 3-way) I knew that either the halogens were 120v or the ropes were 12v. So I dug the rope light string I replaced out of the trash and guess what? It's very clearly marked 12v; the manual is incorrect about the rope lights 😡 ! So I am back to the drawing board. I'm going to replace all the switches on that circuit because there is some blackening of the wires at the connectors. I pulled the switch for the bedroom ropes and checked the voltage; they, too, are 12v and have some charring. I hope some hardware store in town carries these little rockers. Ace wants $10 each for a similar one but online they're less than $2. p.s. - I wonder why, in 2002, they stopped labeling the 12v fuses. On mine you just have to guess.

I've reset every breaker multiple times. What I'm having the most difficulty understanding is how a 12VDC circuit (halogen lights) was taken out at the same time I accidentally knocked out a 120VAC circuit (rope lights)? I've checked every fuse on the coach with a multi-meter and not a single one is blown. Even if there's an inline fuse somewhere that I haven't found, it still doesn't explain how a 12VDC circuit and a 120VAC circuit were knocked out by a single short in a two-wire 120VAC circuit. Here's a pic from the owner's manual showing that the halogens are 12VDC and the ropes are 120VAC.

Well, bummer! Since I discovered that the rope lights were 120v I assumed that when I got back to the coach I'd reset the GFI and everything would be fine but as it turns out, no breaker was tripped. I even manually tripped then reset them and still no power to the kitchen rope or halogens, and no power to the halogens directly above the driver side sofa, which is weird because the kitchen ropes and halogens are on the passenger (curb) side. So I'm back to Square 1. Befuddled! The GFI's are built into the breaker. The front GFI also has the microwave and armrest lamps on it which are working fine. Is it possible for just the GFI portion of the breaker to go bad while the breaker itself is OK?

Thanks for the help everybody, as it turns out it is 110V after all 🤦🏻

Onthego, the lights are definitely 12 V but I heard a distinct click as I cut the wires. Jamie, I checked the continuity of each fuse with a meter. John, I wonder why the fuses aren’t labeled on my 2002

John, is your coach a 1999? Is that fuse box in the pic above the headboard of your bed?

I'm replacing my rope lights (1/2 or more are burnt out). In doing so I cut the old wires without turning off power (rookie mistake, I know). Should have been just a simple fuse but I have checked every fuse on that coach at least 5 times, and there are a ton of them. I've checked them all in the front bay plus the small box full of them behind the bedroom TV. Is there another fuse box that I can't find? This circuit provides power to the kitchen rope lights as well as the kitchen halogens and the fluorescent above the sink. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanx, allphase8! That part number has been discontinued (or is out of stock) but there's another that looks very much like the one I need but they don't provide a length in the product description. I've emailed them and am awaiting a response. Again, thank you for taking the time to help! Thanx, Dr4Film - they have the exact replacement in stock and I've ordered it! I appreciate your help!

Looking to replace the grab handle on the outside of the coach. The lights don't work and the chrome plating is peeling from the brackets. It's about 20" overall. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement with the same bracket mount pattern? I'd prefer to not drill new holes if possible. Thanks for any help! Hope everyone had a safe 4th!