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Posts posted by MyronTruex
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Just chased a problem on my Penguins.
As a test, take your thermostat in hand and go to the front AC, inside. There you should find the two phone type plugs with a coupler on each of them.
One goes to the thermostat, the other goes down the line to the next AC unit.
Unplug both of them, mark them if you think necessary. Then plug the thermostat into the one that is supposed to go down the line. You might not be able to tell which is which, so while you have both disconnected, connect your thermostat to one then the other.
The thermostat should light up if you have voltage coming down from the AC unit board.
The two dangling cables are basically identical, or parallel if you wish to think of them that way.
If the thermostat does not light up, go to the AC unit and measure the DC voltage on that three amp fuse. You can use the metal of the area around the housing for the ground of your meter.
You can actually start before that measurement by checking your DC input from inside the RV. The connector should be dangling from that bundle of wires the phone wires live in. Mine has a Molex connector. Should be the red and black wires.
IF you do not have DC voltage there, you must find the source as mentioned already. Mine is F16 on a fuse panel in my closet. It would be easy to overlook it.
Be sure you use a voltmeter or a test light on both sides of the fuse there. Check all of them if you do not have DC at the molex plug. It is easy to misread labeling and seems common to not have things diagrammed perfectly.
One phone cable runs the DC and the control signals down the line to the next AC unit, where it is then paralleled to the next one if you have a third one.
Learning as I went, I thought the second AC unit would have 12 volts from the fuse panel and would run without the first AC unit online. My mistake, the thermostat would not light up and there was no voltage on the 3 amp fuse in the AC unit.
There was a pair of wires with 12 volts on them but they did not power the same pins on the molex connector. I suspect this power is needed to send power to the heater when called for.
In an emergency, I would have borrowed power from those wires and powered the Red and Black wires and connected my thermostat directly to see if the single unit would come alive.
Being fortunate enough to have my 5 button thermostat and my new Micro Air thermostat gave me some confidence and capabilities for troubleshooting.
My problem happened the day we were going on a five day trip, using a hotel fortunately this time. So the problem was there when we got back. The front AC unit was running fine after replacing the three amp fuse that I had blown.
Why I know about how the DC is applied is mostly due to shooting myself in the foot. After fifty years of diagnosing things both of my feet have been shot many times over. I really should get a purple heart.
My thoughts were an intermittent coupler or broken wire at the edge of the RJ plug, or a touchy connection. I tried to re-crimp the connector and things went downhill from there. The thermostat went dead, as in no light up on either thermostat. Hence, the blown 3 amp fuse and bandages on my feet.
I'm fortunate enough to have cable testing tools and a really neat "break out box". This break out box connects the wires from the RJ Jack to flat pins where my voltmeter was able to test for the 12 volts that needs to go on down the line. I have other tools as well and could have listened to the control signal but using the simple tester, all wires appeared ok.
While traveling I had a cable on order to allow me to test things along the way as well as bypass the thermostat control cable completely. I will provide a link for that cable. It is critical when you make a cable, or replace a connector, that you get the wires in the correct pins. It is very easy to reverse the things. The diagrams are in the manuals.
I use a high power magnifier and headlamp combination to inspect every connection. The RJ tester tells the whole story quickly and will show any reversed or pins that are not in their proper place.
I hope I made this simple enough and is not "Clear as mud".
My plans are to draw this up in a simple block diagram after recovering from the trip. Guess I better get to it today. There is a simple block diagram in the manuals but it does not go far enough into the weeds and the troubleshooting portion does not suggest using the thermostat right at the AC unit either.
If you do not see DC voltages as described, you need to take the board out again and use a magnyfing glass to inspect all circuit traces. A tiny crack is hard to see so use a bright light and look closely.
With the spare cable I'm posting a link to, you can go directly on the roof and plug right into the RJ jack thus bypassing the cables inside.
As usual, Toms' explanation is far more elegant than my simplistic approach, but hope my recent excursion helps add to the resolution.
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1/8 inch aluminum is easy to cut and shape. Cover with your favorite wood covering or something fancy.
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https://daytonairsuspension.com/products/leveling-or-height-control-valve-h01500un
Check this site out. Your's looks like mine. My owners manual shows how to adjust them, except the ones shown in the manual are a different design. So I had to just experiment a bit.
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JB Weld should work. Use the 5 minute type and you can be back on the road in minutes. ☠️
Thanks for the heads up.
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Unfortunately my two AC's did not come with drain cups. The gallons of water coming over the sides can make a mess for sure. Making some cups that just slide under and then using some tubing the water is/was run over the sides. However the overhanging tubes just moved the water away from running down the sides but the splashing on the ground shoots up dirt. Another mess.
Using some PVC and velcro to attach them to the sides a rain gutter downspout was made that could be installed from the ground easily. They were ugly of course and not a great resolution.
It would be nice if someone with a printer could fashion cups that would just slide under the units and even with a very small diameter hose could be run over the sides.
Addressing the AC cleaning Richard, did you remove the condenser cover and clean the coils on them? Another tool that I wish someone would design is a plug to fit the opening so water can not get inside when cleaning them.
Using the thin flexible cutting boards allows me to deflect most of the water but is kind of cumbersome.
A water heater flushing tool makes water control easier when cleaning those condensers as well.
Glad you are getting out of the heat. Hopefully we will be able to travel this Spring.
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My 08 has on ride height valve on the front and one on each side in the back. If the right one is low the coach would likely lean a bit. Might be worth checking.
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The hallway GFI feeds the built in vacuum cleaner in the basement. Unplug the vacuum.
As for the refer. There were just too many issues with mine over the years. Went through at least three ice makers, multiple failures of heating elements, and other issues along the way.
We have a nice residential in place and have loved it for about five years. It is so deep it is hard to reach the back. Ice starts dropping in less than ten minutes and fills a massive container.
I did not connect the refer to the inverter because we have the 2000W modified just as you have. The temps only begin to climb after about four hours and a few minutes stopping for lunch and running the generator or just running the gennie for a couple of hours along the way keeps things fine.
The AC circuits can drive you crazy. They hide junction boxes buried under cables inside the cabinet next to the fireplace.
And yes, a Fox and Hound is really helpful.
We have owned ours since new and I have done so many modifications just the index would fill three pages.
I supplied Frank with the files from my factory CD as well as a ton of other files. He is probably sorry he asked for them.
If you would like a copy, let me know. You need a good wi-fi speed because there are about 7GB of files.
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There is an indentation on mine as well. It took me a couple of trys to get one to fit.
Maybe Supernright lights?
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A few pictures might help someone in the future.
Glad you found it.
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I bought the factory CD when we bought our coach new. I have about 7 GB of information I can give you a link to. You may want to delete some folders when done. I have gathered information over the years and may files have comments and notations.
The 40 SKQ has a gfi next to the kitchen sink on the side next to the sofa. There are two breakers on the Inverter/converter that feeds various circuits. One controls the microwave. There is a GFI on the floor in the hall mounted on the small vacuum cleaner closet. I believe there is one in the bathroom as well.
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It looks like you nailed it. They just paralleled the incoming power to the input of the pump. Just plugging the pump in to activate it. The pump has a built in pressure switch so would turn itself off, unless the water runs dry, then the pump will run constantly.
I'm attaching a couple of files in case they are helpful.
2000 Diplomat Water pump and levels.pdf Water Pump Relay.pdf
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I bet Josams can spot the solenoid.
You may have gotten wasp mud in them. I try to honk them just a tiny bit when I can.
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Post some pictures of your water bay. They could easily bury in behind a panel or under pipes and wires.
Physically follow the wires from the pump if possible.
If all else fails, the old Fox and Hound is my go to tool.
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Just because you cleaned the contacts does not mean it is actually working, (well). Your engine batteries could be in very bad shape internally and you should give the big boy at least four hours to try to bring them up from the dead.
Putting a voltmeter across the engine batteries while cranking will tell the story.
If you can get a jumper cable and bypass the big boy by connecting both battery banks this should help as well. I don't mean the wimpy ones you use to start a car. Get one that is solidly built.
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Robb, I keep a couple different size pipes to slide over my wrenches for extra torque. Really an accident about to happen when used on a large bolt but one does what one needs to do.
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If F2 has voltage controlled by the ignition switch, pull it and find out which end is hot when the ignition is on.
Then use a Fox and Hound to insert a tone on the (cold) side of that fuse. Then sniff the wiring bundles on the output side of the fuse holder to chase down which is the trlr wire.
You may have to resort to then sharpening the positive lead or your voltmeter or test light to find the exact wire by inserting the fuse and taking it out while finding which wire is the actual one.
If you look very closely at the wires they may actually have writing on them.
You may want to use the 7 pin trailer socket while removing each of the connectors on the right side of the fuse panel, one at a time to get you to the right bundle to start.
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The trlr fuse is likely a keyed function. You could test the 7 pin towing socket to confirm.
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Good idea on the boost button. And perhaps start the generator first as well.
You really need a voltmeter right on the input to the starter while someone hits the key to start. It's a scary thing to do so I always try to connect an alligator clip and run a piece of scrap wire to a safe place.
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https://www.amazon.com/Oyviny-Trailer-Circuit-Indicators-Function/dp/B09C85C92J?th=1
Just found this device. Looks like it will test both 7 and 4 pin connections as well as being a 7 pin to 4 pin adaptor. What a great idea.
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I got an exact replacement for mine at Home Depot a few years back.
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Breakers get tired and wear out so a replacement is in order. Not knowing the size of your AC unit, going to a 20 amp might not be a great idea but 15 amps seems borderline for sure.
Did you take the cover off the air condenser. Probably not the right name but the radiator thing that has the air blow through to cool it. They are a bit of a pain to clean but they can get really dirty.
As a temporary test after cleaning, if it still pops the breaker. You may be able to swap the breakers in question. Staying right there to see if the AC runs ok on the 20 amp.
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Need some pictures.
08 dynasty thermostat issue
in AC, Heating, and Cooling
Posted · Edited by MyronTruex
AC air conditioner block diagram.pdfThe ports are parallel, that is they should be identical. There is no where I can find in my diagrams that have much information. I just did some testing with the breakout box and determined there was voltage on two pins on both of the cables.
My previous post suggest disconnecting both of the RJ cables to do the test directly at the AC unit. There is likely a coupler that connects the short cable from the AC to the thermostat and one to the next AC unit. You should be able to connect to the cable that drops down from the AC unit without even buying a test cable.
DO NOT grab or buy just any cable. You need to look closely at the diagrams of the pinouts. Holding the connectors next to each other with the locking pin on the bottom the wires should go to the same pins.
There are cables that could easily switch the positive and negative and blow a fuse. The data pins probably don't care but it is possible they are not allowed to be reversed.
The amazon picture shows the connectors side by side if you can zoom in very close as a reference.